The OPEN ROAD INSPIRED OUTINGS SOUTH AUSTRALIA WINE COUNTRY AND MORE - YOUR JOURNEY BEGINS WITH US - Virtuoso

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The OPEN ROAD INSPIRED OUTINGS SOUTH AUSTRALIA WINE COUNTRY AND MORE - YOUR JOURNEY BEGINS WITH US - Virtuoso
YOUR JOURNEY BEGINS WITH US                                                  SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2020

                                                                      AUSTRALIA | NEW ZEALAND

                The OPEN ROAD
 INSPIRED OUTINGS SOUTH AUSTRALIA WINE COUNTRY AND MORE
                                             
                     Dream trip: A vintage drive with Wes Anderson appeal.
The OPEN ROAD INSPIRED OUTINGS SOUTH AUSTRALIA WINE COUNTRY AND MORE - YOUR JOURNEY BEGINS WITH US - Virtuoso
McLaren Vale vineyards.

                                     WHERE TO NEXT?
   Whether you’re packing your bags now or dreaming about adventures to come, look to a
Virtuoso travel advisor for inspiration and practical advice on navigating travel’s new landscape.

    For close-to-home escapes or far-flung trips of a lifetime, Virtuoso advisors are your resource
   for all the insight you need to plan a safe, successful, and unforgettable holiday. Their expertise
     and access to Virtuoso’s network of the world’s best tour operators, hotels, cruise lines, and
                 other travel providers mean your most memorable trips are yet to come.

           Find an advisor to make your next trip the best one yet at virtuoso.com.

             THE WORLD’S FINEST TRAVEL AGENCIES AND ADVISORS ARE VIRTUOSO.
                                                                                                         JOSIE WITHERS
The OPEN ROAD INSPIRED OUTINGS SOUTH AUSTRALIA WINE COUNTRY AND MORE - YOUR JOURNEY BEGINS WITH US - Virtuoso
The Viking Story
Centuries ago, amid the rugged nature of Norway,          Built for discovery and comfort, over 70 purpose-
the Viking age was born. And as it flourished,            built Viking ships explore the far corners of the
exploration became a Norwegian tradition.                 globe and all seven continents, sailing from
Today, just like the original Vikings, we are true        their homeport in Norway. Everywhere they go,
innovators when it comes to exploring the world.          they carry a little bit of our Nordic heritage with
                                                          them, including the most extensive Norwegian
Viking was founded in 1997 by Norwegian, Torstein
                                                          art collection at sea, and the largest private
Hagen, with the purchase of four river ships in Russia.
                                                          collection of Edvard Munch works outside of Oslo.
Today, Viking remains a family-owned cruise line,
                                                          Designed for discerning travellers with interests
at the same time as it has become the world’s
                                                          in science, history, culture and cuisine, a voyage
leading – and largest – small-ship operator,
                                                          with Viking is designed to be destination focused
offering scenic cruising on state-of-the-art
                                                          and culturally enriching – it’s why Torstein Hagen
vessels on the world’s rivers, oceans and lakes,
                                                          says Viking offers ‘The Thinking Person’s Cruise’,
with expeditions launching in 2022.
                                                          in contrast to mainstream cruise lines.

                                                                             — Torstein Hagen
                                                                               Chairman, Viking
The OPEN ROAD INSPIRED OUTINGS SOUTH AUSTRALIA WINE COUNTRY AND MORE - YOUR JOURNEY BEGINS WITH US - Virtuoso
“Viking bills itself as ‘the thinking person’s cruise’
            and that’s reflected in spending more time in ports,
            with a focus on the destinations and their culture.”
                                  — Ewan McDonald, Mindfood Magazine

                         W H AT V IK ING IS NOT
  We do not try to be all things to all people — which means we can focus on delivering meaningful experiences,
  tailored to you. While most cruise lines are building bigger and more over-the-top ships, offering a multitude
  of experiences to a broad spectrum of ages, we provide you with all that you need, and nothing you don’t.

  • No casinos                           • No charge for beer & wine            • No entrance fee for The Spa

  • No children under 18                    with lunch & dinner                 • No spa sales pressure

  • No crowds                            • No charge for alternative            • No smoking
                                            restaurants
  • No inside staterooms                                                        • No waiting in lines
                                         • No charge for Wi-Fi
  • No umbrella drinks                                                          • No formal nights, butlers, or
                                         • No charge for use of self-              white gloves
  • No photographers
                                            service laundry
  • No art auctions                                                             • No nickel-and-diming

CONTACT YOUR LOCAL VIRTUOSO TRAVEL ADVISOR TO BEGIN YOUR VIKING JOURNEY
The OPEN ROAD INSPIRED OUTINGS SOUTH AUSTRALIA WINE COUNTRY AND MORE - YOUR JOURNEY BEGINS WITH US - Virtuoso
V IK ING ’S NE W EST JOUR NE YS
             Explore all seven continents with Viking – New voyages departing 2021-23

       E X PE D I T I O N C R U I S E S                           M I S S I S S I PPI R I V E R C R U I S E S
Viking will bring its signature style to the ends of the earth    Picture yourself tapping your toes to the rhythm of American
when its two purpose-built expedition ships launch in 2022.       folk, soul and jazz music, and learning about the Civil War
Viking Octantis and Viking Polaris will sail to Antarctica, the   and American civil rights movement. Purpose-built for
Arctic and the undiscovered Great Lakes of North America,         America’s Great River and currently under construction
boasting industry-first features like two complimentary           in Louisiana, Viking Mississippi will set a new standard for
underwater submersibles; an enclosed, in-ship marina called       modern river cruising in the region when she launches in
‘The Hangar’ that allows for the comfortable launch of small      2022. The ship will blend the best of Viking’s river and ocean
excursion craft; and an onboard Laboratory, where resident        cruise product to create a sleek, spacious and comfortable
scientists will conduct important research which guests can       way to explore.
take part in.
The OPEN ROAD INSPIRED OUTINGS SOUTH AUSTRALIA WINE COUNTRY AND MORE - YOUR JOURNEY BEGINS WITH US - Virtuoso
Viking is busy building new ships, opening new destinations and creating new
                       itineraries so that when you are ready to travel again, you’ll have more choice
                       than ever before. Prepare to explore all seven continents of the world in comfort.

             WOR LD CR UISE                                         G A L Á PA G O S C R U I S E S
The newly-announced 2021-2022 Viking World Cruise will        Expanding its destination-focused travel experiences,
span 136 days, 56 ports and 27 countries, with overnight      Viking will launch small-group voyages to the Galapagos
stays in 11 iconic cities. Setting sail on 24 December 2021   Islands and South America from 2021. The voyages will
from Fort Lauderdale to London via Central America,           combine a fully guided land exploration in Peru and
the USA, Hawaii, Australasia, the Middle East and the         Ecuador with an all-inclusive Galapagos Islands ocean
Mediterranean, the epic voyage will include three brand-      cruise in the company of experienced Naturalists and
new ports of call for Viking, including Phillip Island in     Expedition Leaders. With a choice of three itineraries,
Victoria and Eden in NSW, and Yangon, Myanmar.                guests can look forward to thoughtfully exploring one of
                                                              the world’s most spectacular open-air wildlife museums.
The OPEN ROAD INSPIRED OUTINGS SOUTH AUSTRALIA WINE COUNTRY AND MORE - YOUR JOURNEY BEGINS WITH US - Virtuoso
CONTENTS                                                                                                             ISSUE 66
                                                                                                                  September | October 2020

                 44
                 Delinquente Wine Co. pours.

                Sustainable
                              31                                     44                                           50
                  Travel
                              GREATER GOOD                           FLIGHTS OF FANCY                             ACCIDENTAL MAGIC
                              Travel insiders on the future          A laid-back scene and winemakers’            Globe-trotting images from
                              of sustainable travel, looking         independent, experimental streak             the Accidentally Wes Anderson
                              out for the locals, and Galápa-        make South Australia one of the              Instagram community.
                              gos best practices.                    most exciting wine regions going.
                                                                     BY JOSIE WITHERS

                                                                            On the Cover
JOSIE WITHERS

                                             MOTORING MOTIVATION: A picnic-ready Nissan Figaro in the English countryside.
                                    PHOTOGRAPHY BY HAYLEY DOYLE, FROM ACCIDENTALLY WES ANDERSON (LITTLE, BROWN AND COMPANY).

                                                                                                                       S E PT E M B E R | O CTO B E R 2 0 2 0   5
The OPEN ROAD INSPIRED OUTINGS SOUTH AUSTRALIA WINE COUNTRY AND MORE - YOUR JOURNEY BEGINS WITH US - Virtuoso
CONTENTS                                                              ISSUE 66
                                                       September | October 2020

                                             18
                                                                       12

    8       EDITOR’S NOTE

    12      PASSPORT

    16      BON VOYAGE
            New itineraries for 2021,
            plus a first look at Viking’s
            Mississippi riverboat.

    17      SUITE TALK
            Health retreats in Gstaad.

    18      GREAT OUTDOORS
            For Heavens’ Sake
            Worshipping the stars
            on Spain’s volcanic islands.

    24      FIRST PERSON
            The Year We Stayed Home
            When your backyard becomes
            your entire world.

    26      POINT OF VIEW
            Overtourism
            Three travel-industry insiders
            on how we can help, great
            unsung spots, and skirting
            the crowds (when that’s
            a thing again).

    28      IN MY BAG
            My Travel Essentials
                                                  28
            Kellee Edwards takes her show
            on roads less travelled.

    60      GALLERY
            Window Seat
            Capturing the world as seen
                                                                                     (TEIDE NATIONAL PARK) ROSSHELEN/GETTY IMAGES

            from 11,000 metres.

                                                                   16
6   V I RT U O S O L I F E
The OPEN ROAD INSPIRED OUTINGS SOUTH AUSTRALIA WINE COUNTRY AND MORE - YOUR JOURNEY BEGINS WITH US - Virtuoso
Image courtesy of The Ritz-Carlton, Rancho Mirage

                                                    Wide-open spaces. Endless blue skies. And plenty of room to explore
                                                    in Southern California’s most storied resort oasis. Refresh, unwind and
                                                    soak up some vitamin D.

                                                    It’s a place that could make a world of difference any time of year.

                                                                                                                              visitgreaterps.com
The OPEN ROAD INSPIRED OUTINGS SOUTH AUSTRALIA WINE COUNTRY AND MORE - YOUR JOURNEY BEGINS WITH US - Virtuoso
Editor’s Note

    Silver
                                                                                           WHAT WE’VE LEARNED THIS YEAR

                                                                                           • Masks are the new must-have

    Linings                                                                                accessories. Pro tip: Spritz
                                                                                           with an aromatherapy spray for
                                                                                           a mood boost.

    S
                 O … THE YEAR                                                              • Embrace your protocols. I’ve
              certainly didn’t turn                                                        always travelled with antibacterial
              out like we’d hoped.                                                         wipes and hand sanitiser, furtively
              Ambitious travel plans                                                       wiping down surfaces around me and
    were scuttled, events were can-                                                        smiling apologetically to my seat-
    celled, and uncertainty still                                                          mates. I’ll no longer be embarrassed
    looms. I try to keep my eyes on                                                        about my pre-emptive paranoia.
    the horizon, reminding myself
    that this too shall pass.                                                              • We’ll never not use a travel
       While my family didn’t take                                                         advisor. We heard so many stories
    our usual international holiday,                                                       of DIY travellers who were stranded
    we definitely had an abundance                                                         when travel restrictions were imple-
    of togetherness, and I’m grate-            offers a quirky take on places that will    mented earlier this year – and of
    ful for this borrowed time with my 20-     be within reach again someday, and          Virtuoso advisors who saved the day
    and 17-year-olds. I spend most of my       our sustainability report underscores       (not to mention time and money).
    week working from home on an endless       the economic, cultural, and environ-         As the world continues to reopen,
    loop of video calls. But “home” these      mental impact – and importance – of         we value our Virtuoso advisors’
    days is where your computer is, and the    our travels.                                expertise, connections, and advocacy
    options expand when you can take that         As always, in these pages you’ll         more than ever.
    computer to the beach, mountains, or       find inspiration for future trips and
    lake. (Let’s just say my kids perfected    ideas about where you can get away          • Travel is more than just the trip.
    their wakeboarding skills these last       now. (With ever-changing rules and          It’s about the excitement of planning,
    few months.) I took a father-daughter      restrictions, your Virtuoso advisor is      the experience, and the memories
    road trip to visit old family friends,     your best resource for real-time infor-     you make along the way. And it’s the
    boarded my first flight in months for      mation.) You’ll also read interviews        knowledge that you’re giving back just
    a quick jaunt to the coast (I’ve never     with travellers, industry insiders, and     by going – supporting local economies
    been so happy – or nervous – to get on a   advisors around the world, all of whom      and people whose livelihoods depend
    plane), and finally had time to commit     point to the silver linings of this pause   on the travel and tourism industry.
    to weekly volunteer service with my        in travel. Their positivity and optimism
    husband and kids.                          reinforce our belief that travel will       • Seize the moment. As travel journal-
       This issue celebrates the beauty        endure – and that we’ll emerge from         ist Kellee Edwards tells us (page 28),
    of our own backyard. A photo essay         this pandemic with an even greater          “Who’s to say you’ll have the chance
    excerpted from the popular Acciden-        appreciation for the immeasurable           to do it again? Life is for living, not
    tally Wes Anderson Instagram account       rewards of travel.                          contemplating and overthinking.”
                                                                                                                                     KORENA BOLDING SINNETT

                                                                 EDITORIAL DIRECTOR &
                                                              VICE PRESIDENT, CONTENT
                                                                    esrnka@virtuoso.com

8   V I RT U O S O L I F E
YOUR JOURNEY BEGINS WITH US

                                                          EDITORIAL
                                   VICE PRESIDENT/EDITORIAL DIRECTOR ELAINE GRUY SRNKA
                                           MANAGING EDITOR MARIKA McELROY CAIN
                                                 SENIOR EDITOR JUSTIN PAUL
                                           MANAGER, DIGITAL CONTENT AMY CASSELL
                                            ASSISTANT EDITOR SAMANTHA FALEWÉE
                                          SENIOR CO-ORDINATOR DENISE RODRIGUEZ

                                                              DESIGN
                                            DESIGN DIRECTOR MELANIE PRASETYO FOWLER
                                              ART DIRECTOR KORENA BOLDING SINNETT
                                            SENIOR GRAPHIC DESIGNER VERONICA ROSALEZ

                                         CONTRIBUTORS
                           COPY EDITORS MIRIAM BULMER, DIANE SEPANSKI
                            RESEARCHERS DONNA BLINN, JESSICA MUELLER
                 PHOTO RESEARCHER MARY RISHER DIGITAL RETOUCHER WALTER KELLY
          WRITERS & PHOTOGRAPHERS NANNA DÍS, MICHAEL FRANK, LUIS GARCÍA, ELAINE GLUSAC,
                 DAVID HOCHMAN, JEFF KOEHLER, KEVIN J. MIYAZAKI, KIM BROWN SEELY

                                          MARKETING/ADVERTISING/PR
                         MANAGING DIRECTOR, GLOBAL PUBLIC RELATIONS MISTY EWING BELLES
                                 PRODUCT MANAGER, ADS AND ACCESS JAMES RICKS
                          MANAGING DIRECTOR, GLOBAL MARKETING STRATEGY LAURA SPORT
                          DIRECTOR, MARKETING PRODUCTS & PROGRAMMES ROBERT DUNCAN
                                   SENIOR MANAGER, MARKETING KIM BRADSHAW
                                  MANAGER, DIGITAL MARKETING KELLY KIRCHNER

                                                         CIRCULATION/DATA SERVICES
                                                               LANECHA WHITE
                                                         AMY HYDE, GAYLYNN MAGERS

                                                         MARKETING OPERATIONS
                                                      DIRECTOR KATHY NIWA TERRELL
                                                    SENIOR MANAGER MARTIN NOGUEIRA
                                                       SPECIALIST NATALIE SHERMAN
                                                      CO-ORDINATOR HALEY COWSER

                                                  ASIA PACIFIC OPERATIONS
                                          MANAGING DIRECTOR MICHAEL LONDREGAN
                                           REGIONAL DIRECTOR, ASIA EVAN PIERCE
                                      MARKETING & COMMERCIAL MANAGER ADRIAN CLARKE
                                       ACCOUNT DIRECTORS, AUSTRALIA AND NEW ZEALAND
                                            ANNA DAVIES, MICHELE SAUNDERSON
                                         ACCOUNT ADMINISTRATOR KARA LIPSCOMBE

                                                       ACCOUNT SALES                                                                                                                DRIVE TIME: Chez Dede’s
                                          SARA ARCHIBALD, AMY BAILEY, SCOTT BRYAN,                                                                                                  Grand Sac. chezdede.com.
                                        CAROL COLEMAN, CRICKET DUCAT, XABIER EGUREN,
                                          ARLLYS FILMER-BENNETT, TRISHA FORESMAN,
                                             CHRISTINE GILBERT, RACHEL GROGAN,
                                        STEPHANIE LEE, GREGG NIELSEN, DANIELA TROTTA

                                                             VIRTUOSO
                                             CHAIRMAN & CEO MATTHEW D. UPCHURCH
                                              SVP, PARTNERSHIPS ALBERT M. HERRERA
                                                    SVP, STRATEGY DAVID KOLNER
                                           ACTING SVP, MARKETING HELEN McCABE-YOUNG
                                             SVP, FINANCE & OPERATIONS MIKE McCOWN
                                                  SVP, PRODUCT TRAVIS McELFRESH
                                              VP, CULTURE & TALENT MICHELLE RASHID
                                              VP, MEMBER RELATIONS CHERYL BUNKER
                                              VP, PARTNER RELATIONS BETH BUTZLAFF
                                                   VP, TECHNOLOGY PAUL KEARNEY

                                      EDITORIAL ADVISORY BOARD
                             TONY ADLER, MEREDITH BURBIDGE, GRACE DEVITA,
               SCOTT LARGAY, ALLYSON MOFFITT, KEN NEIBAUR, ANGELA PIERSON, ERINA PINDAR,
                ANNE SCULLY, LEAH SMITH, RENEE WEISS, JIM WELCH, KIMBERLY WILSON WETTY

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out North America, Latin America, the Caribbean, Europe, Asia-Pacific, Africa, and the Middle East. Drawing upon its preferred relationships with 2,000-plus of the world’s best hotels and resorts, cruise lines, airlines, tour companies, and premier
destinations, the network provides its upscale clientele with exclusive amenities, rare experiences, and privileged access. For a subscription, please call your Virtuoso travel advisor. All pricing and travel described herein are subject to change and
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                                                                                                                                                                                                      S E PT E M B E R | O CTO B E R 2 0 2 0                      9
WHALE
                      SHARKS
                      & WINES
                      OF THE
                       WEST
       Enjoy unparalleled views of Uluru from the air, before stopping for lunch
        Swim with whale sharks – the world's biggest fish – off Ningaloo Reef
          Indulge in the epicurean delights of Margaret River and Coffin Bay

7 days by Business Class Jet, Sydney return, 2 May 2021, $14,900 per person, twin share
                  For full terms and conditions, see captainschoice.com.au/conditions. CC-579
We cover the breadth of the continent to explore four distinct regions in a single week.
Our journey takes place aboard our business class private jet and is reserved for just 35 guests.

            SYDNEY
             ULURU
        NINGALOO REEF
        MARGARET RIVER
         PORT LINCOLN
            SYDNEY

    Discover our entire range of Australian & New Zealand Journeys by Private Aircraft
         To secure your place or find out more, contact your Virtuoso Travel advisor
PASSPORT                                                            PLACES
                                                                                                  TRENDS
                                                                                                  CULTURE
                                                                                                  & STYLE

     The Soul
     of Oslo
     More than 26,000 of Edvard Munch’s
     works, including The Scream, will
     move into the new Munch Museum
     on Oslo’s waterfront this spring.
     Spanish architecture firm
     Estudio Herreros designed
     the 11-gallery, 13-storey
     glass-and-recycled-
     aluminium landmark to
     display artworks by Munch
     and other modernist and
     contemporary artists he
     influenced – as well as some
     of the best views of the Bjørvika
     neighbourhood and bay from
     its rooftop terrace bar. A special
     double-height gallery shows
     some of the artist’s largest works,
     such as his eight-by-five-metre
     mural, The Sun. munchmuseet.no.

                                                                                                            ADRÀ GOULA

                                       PASSPORT IS REPORTED BY: Michael Frank and Elaine Glusac

12   V I RT U O S O L I F E
ART & CULTURE

                                                                                                                                                  Art That Binds
                                                                                                                               Chicago’s Museum of Contemporary Art has responded to
                                                                                                                               pandemic-forced separations with Just Connect, a group show
                                                                                                                             exploring solitude and how people connect and interact with one
                                                                                                                            another in works by artists such as Emeka Ogboh, Jenny Holzer, and
                                                                                                                                Kerry James Marshall. Through 8 November; mcachicago.org.

                                                                                                                                                    Nicolas Africano’s I Get Hurt.
                                                                                                                                       Below: A rendering of SpaceShipTwo’s passenger cabin.

                                                                                                                     SPACE TRAVEL

                                                                                                                     ROCKET SCIENCE

                                                                                 BACK IN BLACK
                                                                                  To celebrate the 150th anniver-
                                                                                 sary of New York’s Metropolitan
                                                                                   Museum of Art, its Costume
OF CONTEMPORARY ART CHICAGO/NICOLAS AFRICANO AND WEINSTEIN HAMMONS GALLERY
(DRESS) NICHOLAS ALAN COPE/THE METROPOLITAN MUSEUM OF ART, (AFRICANO) MUSEUM

                                                                                Institute will exhibit About Time:
                                                                                 Fashion and Duration. The show
                                                                                                                                                                                   Canopies woven from recycled
                                                                                pairs related designs from differ-                                                               plastic bottles help Sarika blend
                                                                                 ent centuries, such as a shapely                                                                      into its 55-hectare setting.
                                                                                1870s princess-line dress beside
                                                                               Alexander McQueen’s tailored and
                                                                                 revealing Bumster skirt of 1995.
                                                                                The collection of 120 pieces – all
                                                                                black – aims to highlight fashion    Virgin Galactic recently revealed the first glimpse of SpaceShipTwo’s cabin as part of
                                                                               cycles and shape-shifts among the     its 16-year quest to fly travellers into suborbital space: Mood lighting adjusts to various
                                                                               world’s most influential designers,   stages of flight (and cuts out entirely in space to focus attention on Earth’s glow), a
                                                                               from Azzedine Alaïa to Yohji Yama-    dozen circular windows with soft foam rings double as handholds for moving about the
                                                                                                                     cabin during weightlessness, and a large tinted mirror at the rear allows passengers
                                                                                moto. 29 October 2020, through 7
                                                                                                                     to perfect their zero-g acrobatics. Designers streamlined the interior to maximise
                                                                                 February 2021; metmuseum.org.
                                                                                                                     passenger manoeuvrability. Seats are sized to fit individual passengers and feature
                                                                                                                     pilot-controlled recline settings for greater comfort when g-forces intensify, as well as
                                                                                     Dutch designer Iris van
                                                                                                                     personal seat-back screens to display data and updates from the flight deck. Our fa-
                                                                                 Herpen’s Timeline dress from her    vourite touch: 16 high-def cameras to record the experience, leaving passengers free to
                                                                                      2012-2013 collection.          take it all in rather than fumble with settings.

                                                                                                                                                                                 S E PT E M B E R | O CTO B E R 2 0 2 0   13
Passport

     GEAR UP

                                                       Sound
                                                    Improvements
                                  Five favourite earbuds for workouts, travelling, and the new normal at home.

                                                     1. JBL Reflect Flow buds’ snug, secure
                                                       fit makes them great for workouts –
                                                       they’re also waterproof, so sweat or
                                                      getting caught in a downpour isn’t an
                                                      issue. A special “hear-through” mode
                                                     pipes in more outside noise as a safety
                                                    feature for running or biking near traffic.
                                                    10 hours of listening per charge. jbl.com.

                                        ➊
                                                     2. Apple’s AirPods Pro deliver superb
                                                      sound reproduction with active noise-
                                                     cancelling capability and an exception-
                                                    ally comfortable fit. This pring, the com-
                                                     pany will introduce “spatial” separation
                                                     to its flagship buds through a software                     ➋
                                                    update, so concert recordings, especial-
                                                    ly, will let you distinguish different voices
                                                      and instruments. 4.5 hours of listening
                                                                per charge. apple.com.

                                                    3. You’ll pay extra for them, but for play-
                                                    back time, stellar sound, and waterproof
                                                     design, Bang & Olufsen’s Beoplay E8
                                                     Sport buds are the king of the passive-
                                                     noise-cancelling bunch. Like the JBLs,
                                                     they also offer a mode to allow in ambi-
                              ➌                      ent sounds for safety. 7 hours of listen-
                                                       ing per charge. bang-olufsen.com.

                                                       4. Sennheiser’s Momentum True
                                                     Wireless 2 earbuds offer active noise
                                                     cancelling to shut out the world’s din,
                                                     convey a pure sound profile with clear
                                                     highs and strong bass, and recognise                            ➍
                                                     voice prompts to activate either Siri or
                                                      Google Assistant. 7 hours of listening
                                                           per charge. sennheiser.com.

                                                    5. Jabra’s Elite 75t buds boast the best
                                                    active noise cancelling of the group and
                                                      sound quality that’s just slightly less
                                                       impressive than Apple’s, sacrificing
                                  ➎                  some clarity for deeper bass. 7.5 hours
                                                        of listening per charge. jabra.com.

14   V I RT U O S O L I F E
TRAVEL INTELLIGENCE

                                                               Value
                                                            Proposition
                                                        For when UK travel is pos-
                                                          sible again: A recent cut
                                                          to the UK’s value-added
                                                          tax (VAT) means a hotel
                                                          stay or dinner may cost
                                                          less. The cut, which ap-
                                                         plies to hotels, dining es-
                                                                                                                                               Freeze-frame: Iceland’s
                                                         tablishments, and enter-                                                           lagoons beckon travellers.
                                                        tainment venues, reduced
                                                         the VAT from 20 per cent
                                                                                        STAMP
                                                                                             OF                consider eco-friendly         the way are in keeping
                                                            to 5 per cent through      ASSURANCE               solutions and avoid           with World Health Or-
                                                              January 12, 2021.        Travellers looking      single-use products           ganization and World
                                                                                       for a little peace of   where possible.               Travel & Tourism
                                                                                       mind should keep an                                   Council guidelines.
                                                                                       eye out for the World    WELL   TRAVELLED
                                                                                       Travel & Tourism        The modern travel-            SMALL IS
                                                                                       Council’s new Safe      ler is getting a new          THE NEW BIG
                                                                                       Travels stamp.          BFF: When guided              G Adventures has

                                                               87
                                                                                       More than 1,200         holidays begin again,         launched a new
                                                                                       companies, from tour    a dedicated wellbe-           collection of small-
                                                                                       operators to cruise     ing director will be          group tours that cater
                                                                                       lines, and destina-     accompanying all In-          to just eight to ten
                                                                                       tions, from Slovenia    sight Vacations and           travellers and use
                                                                                       to Saint Petersburg,    Luxury Gold trips             private vehicles. The
(COINS) GETTY IMAGES, (ICELAND) UMKEHRER/GETTY IMAGES

                                                                                       have now received the   of 20 or more people          trips, slated to run
                                                                                       stamp. The WTTC’s       to uphold safety and          through 2021, span 27
                                                              The percentage           standards balance       hygiene measures.             countries and include
                                                                 of travellers         current-moment          That means keeping            walking on north-
                                                                                       practicality with       travellers up to date         ern Spain’s Camino
                                                               who feel ready          long-term goals; for    on local regulations,         de Santiago, sailing
                                                             to take a road trip       example, companies      ensuring luggage is           Thailand’s southern
                                                              now, according           must provide em-        sanitised before it           islands, and visiting
                                                                                       ployees with personal   arrives at hotel rooms,       Iceland’s natural won-
                                                                 to a recent           protective equip-       and confirming prac-          ders, such as geysers
                                                               Virtuoso poll.          ment, but should also   tices at all stops along      and lagoons.

                                                                                                                                      S E PT E M B E R | O CTO B E R 2 0 2 0   15
Bon Voyage

                                                                                                        ROLLING ON THE RIVER
                                                                                                         Sail in the spirit of Huckleberry Finn: Viking’s river
                                                                                                         cruises have unveiled a first look at the 386-pas-
                                                                                                         senger Viking Mississippi, set to debut in August
                                                                                                         2022, as well as its 2022 and 2023 itineraries. The
                                                                                                         new ship will sail the length of America’s great river
                                                                                                         from Minnesota to Louisiana, marking the line’s
                                                                                                         first U.S. venture. During the 8- to 15-day sailings,
                                                                                                         musicians will help travellers explore the roots of
                                                                                                         Saint Louis blues, while cocktail classes in Natch-
                                                                                                         ez, Mississippi, invite cruisers to taste Sazeracs,
                                                                                                         mint juleps, vieux carrés, and other southern U.S.
                                                                                                         staples. On board, Scandinavian-style staterooms
                                                                                                         and suites range from 25 to 95 square metres,
                                                                                                         all including private balconies, heated bathroom
                                                                                                         floors, and 24-hour room service. Throughout the
                                                                                                         ship, eco-friendly fixtures include LED lighting and
                                                                                                         solar panels, and floor-to-ceiling windows maxi-
                                                                                                         mise natural sunlight. Be sure to check out the
                                                                                                         top deck for barbecues on the open-air Aquavit
                                                              Ship in the night: A rendering of          Terrace and sundowners by the infinity plunge
                                                       Viking Mississippi in Winona, Minnesota.          pool. Departures: Multiple dates, 27 August 2022,
                                                                                                         through 2023.

                                                   FULL STEAM AHEAD
                                                              New sailings to plan for in 2021.

                  Seabourn has announced new seven-day                                           Seattle-based UnCruise Adventures specialises
                sailings between Tel Aviv and Athens aboard                                     in small-ship expeditions to places such as Alaska,
                the 604-passenger Seabourn Ovation for next                                      the Hawaiian Islands, and Mexico’s Sea of Cortés
              year’s Mediterranean season. Cruisers visit the                                    (vessels accommodate 22 to 86 passengers). Next
              GreekIsles – tasting ouzo in Mykonos and learn-                                    year, the cruise line will launch a series of six-day
                  ing folklore in Symi – and explore parts of                                      sailings in the Salish Sea on the U.S.-Canada
              Turkey, including first-century archaeological                                      border to provide quick outdoor getaways – per-
               sites in Ephesus and beaches on the Turquoise                                    fect for families and working professionals. Depar-
                   Coast. Departures: 7 and 14 August, 2021.                                    tures: Multiple dates, 9 May through 17 October, 2021.

                     SHIPSHAPE: Royal Caribbean International and Norwegian Cruise Line, in collaboration with sister lines Silversea and Celebrity Cruises,
                     respectively, have launched a Healthy Sail Panel of experts to ensure traveller wellbeing at sea. The panel, including scientists, hospitality
                     specialists, and public health officials, will create recommendations and protocols to share across the industry with other cruise lines, tour
                     operators, and hoteliers. Former U.S. Department of Health and Human Services secretary Mike Leavitt and former U.S. Food and Drug
                     Administration commissioner Dr. Scott Gottlieb will cochair the panel. Royal Caribbean’s new public health and chief medical officer, Dr.
                     Calvin Johnson, will collaborate with the panel to ensure health initiatives are met.

16   V I RT U O S O L I F E
Suite Talk

                                                                                                              Mountain highs: Wellness
                                                                                                              retreats at Alpina Gstaad.

                                                      SWISS FIX
      Swiss mountain resort Alpina Gstaad aims to nourish guests post-lockdown with an enhanced focus on personal wellness.
In addition to hatha, vinyasa, and power yoga, the 56-room retreat has added yang yin (a mix of slow and dynamic practices), pi-yo-chi
  (a combination of Pilates, yoga, and tai chi), Tibetan yoga, and yogic sleep (a three- to five-day programme focused on better rest)
to the lineup of group classes or one-on-one sessions. New two-day retreats focus on forest healing through mindful mountain walks,
     and energy sound healing using gongs, singing bowls, and tuning forks. Travellers can bring a bit of the resort home with the
                                 Alchemy Bar’s mix-them-yourself health and bath-and-body products.

                                        SPYWEAR
                                        Ian Fleming wrote the Bond novels from a Jamaican hideout that’s part of the present-
                                        day GoldenEye resort, home to 45 cottages and villas on the island’s northeast coast. To
                                        celebrate the upcoming release of No Time to Die, the resort tapped British brand Orlebar
                                        Brown for swim trunks featuring Fleming’s villa and its private beach. Available at the resort
                                        boutique and orlebarbrown.com.

                                                                                                          S E PT E M B E R | O CTO B E R 2 0 2 0   17
Great Outdoors

                              For Heavens’ Sake
                              Worshipping the stars on Spain’s volcanic islands.
                                               BY JEN ROSE SMITH

                                                                                                                 HOWARD LITHERLAND/ALAMY

                                                                                      The Milky Way spangles
                                                                                       the sky over Tenerife’s
                                                                                      Teide National Park and
                                                                                   (opposite) the park by day.

18   V I RT U O S O L I F E
D
                                                         AYLIGHT FADED AS I DROVE             been joined by stargazing travellers.         time, focusing on the pale smudge of the
                                                          upward through Tenerife’s              At a trailhead near Teide’s lower          Andromeda galaxy. The nearest major
                                                          misty pine forests, fado music      slopes, I met with a star guide who’d         galaxy to our own, it’s still 2.5 million
                                                          crackling over the car radio. The   set up high-powered telescopes for the        light years away, the most distant object
                                               air – along with the mournful tunes – went     evening’s group. We followed him down         that can be seen with the naked eye.
                                               suddenly clear when I left the trees and       a path lined by volcanic rock forma-             It’s easy to imagine Tenerife’s an-
                                               entered Teide National Park. Below me, a       tions, jagged teeth rising to an unbro-       cient inhabitants on a night as clear as
                                               skirt of clouds spread to the horizon; high    ken swath of stars. To my right, I spot-      this one, watching the faraway galaxy
                                               above, stars framed the triangular profile     ted the dim freckles of the Pleiades,         against a velvet-dark sky. Thousands of
                                               of El Teide volcano, Spain’s tallest peak.     and the guide pointed out the North           years later, the view retains its power.
                                                  Alluring beaches have long drawn Eu-        Star’s steady light above the far hori-       I looked a final time, then moved aside
                                               ropean sun seekers to Spain’s Canary           zon. In summer, he said, we’d see the         as another stargazer took my place at
                                               Islands. Scattering westward from Mo-          Milky Way sweeping past in a luminous         the telescope. He drew in a quick breath
                                               rocco’s coast, the volcanic archipelago        band; locals call it the Camino de Santi-     when Andromeda came into sudden fo-
                                               (Tenerife is its largest and most populous     ago, named for the pilgrimage footpath        cus: “My god!” he said.
                                               island) basks in African sunshine through      spanning northern Spain.
                                               the northern hemisphere’s winter. But I’d         Bundled against the mountain air, our
                                               come for a nighttime show – the Canary         group took reverent turns at the tele-
                                               Islands are among the finest places on         scopes. Venerating the skies is nothing
                                               earth to watch the sky.
                                                  “You have very high mountains sur-
                                                                                              new in the Canaries. Archaeologists have
                                                                                              found temples here with architecture
                                                                                                                                                              TIP
                                               rounded by the ocean,” says Héctor             fine-tuned to celestial rhythms, point-
                                               Socas, a researcher at the Canary Is-          ing to a cult of star worship. One such               “When people think of the
                                                                                                                                                     Canary Islands, often the
                                               lands Institute of Astrophysics, whose         site, on the neighbouring island of Gran            resorts of Tenerife are top of
                                               futuristic white observatory sprawls           Canaria, is Risco Caído, a troglodyte set-        mind. But travellers who venture
                                               over Teide’s flank. “That gives you ideal      tlement that joined the UNESCO World                  farther across this volcanic
                                                                                                                                                 archipelago are rewarded with
                                               conditions to make observations.” High-        Heritage list last year. There, in a temple          four stunning national parks
                                               altitude stargazing means less atmo-           known simply as Cave Six, sun rays and              boasting diverse landscapes,
                                               sphere to distort the view, while marine       moonlight enter an ancient sanctuary               from Spain’s highest mountain
                                                                                                                                                to desertlike dunes and tropical
                                               weather reduces the air turbulence that        through a carved tunnel, painting shad-             beaches rivalling those of the
                                               can have a blurring effect. Scientists         ows across the interior walls.                              South Pacific.”
                                               come from across the globe to look at the         As stars arced past Teide’s summit,                      – Sarah Lang,
                                               stars here, and, in recent years, they’ve      the guide adjusted the telescope a final               Virtuoso travel advisor
(TEIDE NATIONAL PARK) ROSSHELEN/GETTY IMAGES

                                                                                                                                                       S E PT E M B E R | O CTO B E R 2 0 2 0   19
Great Outdoors

        The village-style
        Bahía del Duque.
                                                                                                          STAY
                                                                                                          White stucco architecture
                                                                                                          and red-tiled roofs evoke a
                                                                                                          traditional Canarian village at
                                                                                                          Bahía del Duque, a resort that
                                                                                                          wraps around a sheltered bay
                                                                                                          on Tenerife’s sunny southern
                                                                                                          coast. The property’s 288
                                                                                                          rooms and 58 suites spiral
                                                                                                          through lush gardens and
                                                                                                          cascading pools, with eight
                                                                                                          restaurants that range from
                                                                                                          modern Basque to beach-club
                                                                                                          casual, plus a wellness centre
                                                                                                          with a thalassotherapy circuit.
                                                                                                          After dinner, meet the prop-
                                                                                                          erty’s resident astronomer at
                                                                                                          an on-site observatory for a
                                                                                                          sparkling nightcap of stars.

                                                     MORE DARK-SKY DESTINATIONS
                                                     The show begins when the sun goes down.

     CANADA                            renowned for stargazing,         the most of the starry abun-      Some 6,000 years ago, the
     See constellations reel over      the wildlife sanctuary is also   dance overhead. Departures:       peninsula’s Neolithic people
     the Canadian Rockies at the       among the largest private        Any day through 2021.             aligned their stone monu-
     442-room Fairmont Jas-            nature preserves in Africa.                                        ments to celestial events.
     per Park Lodge in Jasper          Ker & Downey’s private,          IRELAND                           Now, moonless nights reveal
     National Park, the world’s        customisable, eight-day fly-     Coastal hills on the Iveragh      hosts of galaxies, nebulas, and
     second-largest Dark Sky           in Namibia safari includes two   Peninsula along the Wild          shooting stars. At the gateway
     Preserve. At the hotel’s on-      nights in the nature reserve     Atlantic Way frame twinkling      to the peninsula, the 72-room
     site planetarium, astronomy       at the recently renovated        night skies in the Kerry Inter-   Sheen Falls Lodge offers
     experts lead virtual tours        andBeyond Sossusvlei Des-        national Dark Sky Reserve,        falconry, outings on horse-
     of constellations and train       ert Lodge, where an on-site      the first such reserve in         back, and salmon fishing on a
     the Canadian Rockies’ most        observatory and resident         Ireland. Locals have long kept    private stretch of river within
     powerful telescope on the         astronomer help guests make      an eye on the heavens here:       the 120-hectare estate.
     night sky. Watch for flickering
     tongues of purple, green, and
                                                                                                                          A starry night
     blue light, too, as the aurora                                                                                          over Kerry.
     borealis makes flash appear-
     ances above Jasper from
     August to April.

     NAMIBIA
     Even in full sunlight, the Na-
     mib Desert resembles some-
     thing from another planet,
     with its Martian-red plains
                                                                                                                                            DON MACMONAGLE/ALAMY

     grazed by spiral-horned kudu.
     At night, it’s the dark skies
     that dazzle in NamibRand
     Nature Reserve. An Inter-
     national Dark Sky Reserve

20   V I RT U O S O L I F E
Atrium, Seven Seas Explorer®
First Person

     The Year                          A
                                                RMED WITH THE CUTEST BABY MUG SHOT EVER, MY HUSBAND
                                                 and I took our 6-month-old daughter to apply for her first passport in
                                                 March. We had ambitious plans for the year ahead: Vancouver Island,

     We Stayed
                                                 Florida, and, best of all, a two-week jaunt through Italy to see friends
                                       get married and visit family. (One Saturday night, buoyed by takeaway sushi, a
                                       soundly sleeping infant in the next room over, and a couple glasses of wine, we

     Home
                                       even started talking about an adventure in Tokyo.)
                                          That trip to the passport office was on 7 March B.C. – Before Coronavirus. It
                                       turned out to be one of our last mask-free outings as a family before our stay-
                                       at-home order two weeks later. The U.S. State Department stopped processing
     When your backyard                nonessential passports in April. And, in an instant, all our plans – unlike us –
     becomes your entire world.        were up in the air.
                                          In an alternate, limoncello-soaked reality, this essay would have been packed
                                       with memories and lessons learned from our first big trip with Eleanor – our
     BY AMY CASSELL                    grand Italian adventure as a party of three. (And my first trip to Italy too!)
     ILLUSTRATIONS BY QUEENBE MONYEI   We’d overnight in Rome, drive to Tuscany for the wedding weekend, then hop

24   V I RT U O S O L I F E
Travel has always made me feel
                           most like myself. And after world-changing
                           moments – life, loss, a pandemic – we all
                                  deserve to feel like ourselves.

a flight and a ferry to La Maddalena, the     She’d be turning 1 while we were in Tus-        either, but I still love asking my mum
tiny island off the coast of Sardinia where   cany. We joked about letting her cele-          to tell me about them. There was the
my mother-in-law grew up. We’d meet           brate by digging into a slice of tiramisu.      long road trip for Christmas when I
great-aunts and -uncles, and my husband       I couldn’t wait to watch her grab for           was 14 months old. (A horrible idea in
would translate as I tried to keep up with    strands of cacio e pepe at lunch. (I also       hindsight, she admits. We flew home
the conversation. Eleanor would screech       couldn’t wait to grab for strands of cacio      while my dad and grandpa drove the car
while we dipped her toes in the Mediter-      e pepe at lunch.)                               back.) And the summer lake getaway.
ranean. Connecting with extended fam-            Instead, I’m at home, where we’ve            My mum chuckles while telling me how
ily while building our own family – all the   more or less been for the past six months.      I ran around all day and then refused
makings of beautiful reflection, right?       I’m writing this in my new office, which        to fall asleep until 4 am – not surpris-
   We were ready. I’d done the research       is really just a desk tucked in the corner      ing, given that my own daughter likes to
and had the sleek travel crib and the         of a spare bedroom. According to the            party at midnight too.
lightweight stroller in my online cart.       State Department’s Passport Applica-               My mum lights up over these memo-
The extensive “surviving baby jet lag”        tion Status website, Eleanor’s passport         ries. So, as much as I’m disappointed for
Googling was complete. I felt empow-          is still processing. After this year, I think   Eleanor this year, I think it’s clear that
ered by the friends with older kids who       we’re all still processing.                     I’m really disappointed for me. I want to
kept encouraging us to “Go now!” They            I know: She won’t be disappointed            start collecting stories that I can tell my
said travelling with Eleanor would be         by these foiled first-birthday plans be-        daughter about later. And I want to travel
much easier before she could get bored        cause she won’t remember this year.             again. Though having a child is a beauti-
on airplanes and moody on car rides.          I don’t remember my early holidays              ful, fulfilling, no-regrets experience, it
                                                                                              can also be an overwhelming, lonely, and
                                                                                              disorienting one. There’s an unbeliev-
                                                                                              able rush of love and a momentous loss
                                                                                              of independence. But travel has always
                                                                                              made me feel most like myself. And af-
                                                                                              ter world-changing moments – life, loss,
                                                                                              a pandemic – we all deserve to feel like
                                                                                              ourselves.
                                                                                                 It’s a privilege to be able to travel
                                                                                              abroad as a family; I don’t take that for
                                                                                              granted. But amid everything that’s
                                                                                              going on in the world right now, I still
                                                                                              believe you’re allowed to feel sad about
                                                                                              cancelled holiday plans. It’s OK to wal-
                                                                                              low for a minute. Yet what this year could
                                                                                              have been is what next year might be. I’m
                                                                                              still looking forward to Eleanor’s first
                                                                                              scoop of gelato on the Via del Corso, and
                                                                                              now I’ve got a few extra months to learn
                                                                                              a little more Italian than grazie and allo-
                                                                                              ra. And the passport offices have slowly
                                                                                              started to reopen. Here’s to filling my
                                                                                              daughter’s fresh one with stamps some-
                                                                                              day soon.

                                                                                                          S E PT E M B E R | O CTO B E R 2 0 2 0   25
Point of View

                                                    Overtourism
                              Three travel-industry insiders on how we can help, great unsung spots,
                                        and skirting the crowds (when that’s a thing again).
                                                          INTERVIEWS BY ADAM ERACE

                                                    While many people see overtourism as a        the top of a hill with stunning views, very
                                                    problem, we see it as an opportunity.         authentic.” It’s all about giving the trav-
                                                       Capri is a fabulous example. Everyone      eller bragging rights. They can go home
                                                    links Capri with the Blue Grotto. We          and say, “What do you mean you’ve
                                                    start our itinerary later in the day and      never heard of San Donato? It’s the most
                                                    actually go first around the back of the      amazing place.”
                                                    island, so our guests get to see the other       IC Bellagio is an on-site tour operator
                                                    beautiful grottoes, and usually there is      based in Lake Como that works with Vir-
                                                    nobody there. They can do their swim-         tuoso travel advisors to create custom trips.
     ANDREA GRISDALE                                ming and go to the private little beaches,
     CEO, IC Bellagio                               and then by the time they come to the
                                                    front of the island, and they see the cir-
                                                    cus at the Blue Grotto, we ask, “Would
     COVID-19 HAS PRESENTED HUGE OP-                you still like to go?” and it’s like, “No,
     portunities for travelling in Italy. I think   no, no, get me out of here!” And by the
     this will be the only year ever when you       time they’re arriving at Capri, it’s four
     can enjoy major destinations and sites         in the afternoon, which is also what time
     without the crowds. Just two weeks ago         the crowds leave. So then they get Capri
     I was in Piazza San Pietro at 3 pm, and        all to themselves, with a huge highlight
     there were no crowds. Places like the          being by the time they get back on their
     Vatican Museums have hugely reduced            boat to the Amalfi Coast, the sun is gen-
     admissions, so the experience is much          erally setting over Capri.
     more pleasant. I think this will be the           Overtourism is mentioned in about 50       CATHERINE HEALD
     year Italians get to love holidaying in        per cent of our requests. They will say,      Cofounder and CEO, Remote Lands
     their own country.                             “We would love to go when there’s less
       There is talk about cruise ships start-      people” or “We would be willing to wake
     ing back from Venice soon, something           up early if it meant avoiding the crowds.”    WITH THE EXCEPTION OF INDIA, ASIA
     we can very easily link to overtourism.        To help us understand the client, a great     has relatively few Covid cases and
     Rome and Venice are the destinations           question we ask is, “How comfortable          deaths, and the countries are all well
     from which many cruises start and end          would you be enjoying dinner with a lo-       into recovery and largely reopened. Siem
     their itineraries. Or, last year and the       cal family in their home?” and if people      Reap and Angkor Wat, which is usually
     year before, there were some days where        say they would love it, obviously we          totally overrun with tour buses, are com-
     we had 9,000 people getting off a ship in      would feel a lot more comfortable going       pletely empty. This may never happen
     one day destined for the Cinque Terre.         into regions or areas which are perhaps       again in our lifetimes.
     And if you put those 9,000 people to-          less frequented by international travel-         In Kyoto, the temples and gardens
     gether with the day visitors and the peo-      lers. Say, for example, we’re in the height   are usually packed, but are now empty.
     ple who are staying there, it’s total chaos.   of summer in the Tuscan countryside           When Japan first opens, I expect this
     In the last five years, it’s become more       – our driver-guides might say, “Listen,       will continue for a few months until
     and more a situation of also managing          if you want, we can go to Siena or San        people are able to plan trips again. But
     our itineraries around when we know            Gimignano, which I know is going to be        when travel returns to pre-Covid lev-
     there’s going to be that huge amount           quite busy today, or I can take you to San    els, as it inevitably will, travellers can
     of people at that time and in that place.      Donato, one of my favourite towns, at         combat overtourism by avoiding the

26   V I RT U O S O L I F E
most famous destinations and instead
venturing off the beaten path. In Japan,
minimise time in Kyoto and Tokyo, and
instead focus on remote corners of Hok-
kaido, Shikoku, and Kyushu. Elsewhere                          “When travel returns to pre-Covid
in Asia, in Indonesia, for example, they                           levels, as it inevitably will,
can minimise their time on Bali and                            travellers can combat overtourism
instead go to Java, Sumatra, Borneo,
Sulawesi, and Sumba. In India, skip Ra-
                                                                  by avoiding the most famous
jasthan and instead focus on Darjeeling,                       destinations and instead venturing
Sikkim, Madhya Pradesh, and Ladakh.                                   off the beaten path.”
These destinations are what I call under-
rated and underappreciated Asia.
   While we always want to lead our cli-
ents away from the crowds, there’s the
dilemma of wanting to visit must-see
places, like Angkor Wat. That’s some-
thing most people want to do in their
lifetimes, so it’s our job to figure out a
way to avoid the crowds and have a more
private experience, whether it’s the tim-      2020, mainly due to the fear of Covid and        bat overtourism, the most important
ing to avoid the tour buses, like going        the economic impact of the crisis. Since         thing is to open your mind to other pos-
very early, or going in through a differ-      Machu Picchu overshadows everything              sibilities; prioritise unique and super-
ent entrance, as well as visiting a lot of     else, 95 per cent of our visitors come here      authentic experiences in uncrowded
other smaller temples that are wonder-         to go there; it’s like going to Paris and see-   destinations. For example, in Peru, we
ful but nobody goes to them. Or Everest:       ing the Eiffel Tower. But the experience         also have the northern coast, with sun-
In Nepal, which is still closed and really     wasn’t the best because of the amount of         ny and warm beaches all year round;
suffering, as they depend very much on         people – more than 4,000 per day before          the southern coast with amazing des-
tourism, I assume it will take some time       Covid. Now, a very low limit of visitors         erts; and many Andean destinations,
to get back to pre-Covid numbers, espe-        has been set, 675 per day (75 per hour).         plus the Amazon. Brazil has positioned
cially for group travel, so early 2021 will    This daily limit will be increased as pro-       itself as “the Amazon,” but the Ama-
probably be an excellent time for hiking       tocols and control measures improve. So          zon River is born in Peru and our rain
Everest without crowds, especially for         whoever has the opportunity to come to           forest is pristine. Travelling in Peru is
individual travellers.                         Machu Picchu in 2020 will undoubtedly            usually very intense: There are lots of
   Remote Lands is an Asia tour operator       enjoy it with very few people around.            early wake-ups, lots of flights, packing
specialising in off-the-beaten-path and cus-      In normal times, to ensure our cli-           and unpacking, plus high altitude, so at
tom itineraries.                               ents have the best experience at Ma-             the end, it’s nice to have a more relaxing
                                               chu Picchu, we try to avoid morning              experience like an Amazon cruise or
                                               visits. There’s a belief that the sunrise        lodge, an escape to the beach, or a few
                                               on Machu Picchu is something special,            days at a Paracas desert resort.
                                               but since it’s in the middle of a cloud             Most tourists come to Peru for a
                                               forest, it’s usually cloudy, especially in       week, and they just check off the south-
                                               the mornings. We go in the afternoon,            ern Peru circuit – Arequipa, Cuzco,
                                               when it’s usually sunny and there are            Sacred Valley, Machu Picchu, Lake
                                               fewer people. Another suggestion is to           Titicaca, and Puerto Maldonado. But
                                               overnight in Machu Picchu so you can             northern Peru is super interesting:
                                               experience it in the afternoon with              Trujillo, Chiclayo, Chachapoyas, which
                                               fewer people, and then on the follow-            our tourism board has been putting in
                                               ing morning, if you like, you can go back        a lot of effort and money to promote.
                                               very, very early before people arrive by         While southern Peru is all about Inca
                                               train, or climb to the Huayna Picchu             sites, the north is pre-Inca sites, and
ALONSO ROGGERO                                 mountain, an in-demand experience                while they’re a lot older than Machu
General manager,                               within Machu Picchu that’s only avail-           Picchu, they are recent discoveries, so
Metropolitan Touring Peru                      able during the morning.                         you can see the actual teams of archae-
                                                  But we also recommend other Inca              ologists digging and working there.
                                               sites, like Choquequirao and Huchuy                 Metropolitan Touring Peru is an
THE REVIVAL OF TOURISM HAS JUST                Qosqo, that don’t have the branding              on-site tour operator based in Lima that
started in Peru, but incoming travel will      yet but could be as impressive as Machu          works with Virtuoso travel advisors to
continue to be very slow in the rest of        Picchu. For visitors who want to com-            craft custom itineraries in the country.

                                                                                                            S E PT E M B E R | O CTO B E R 2 0 2 0   27
In My Bag

     My Travel Essentials
     Kellee Edwards takes her show on roads less travelled.

     T
                RAVEL AND ADVENTURE
                journalist Kellee Edwards
                has journeyed more than
                300 kilometres along the
     Peruvian Amazon to visit remote
     tribes, searched for mummies in
     Alaska, piloted a Cessna 172 along
     the Kimberley coastline, and gone
     cave swimming in Fiji’s Yasawa
     Islands. “If you’re the least bit curious
     about experiencing something, that’s
     the perfect reason to do it,” she says.
     “Who’s to say you’ll have the chance
     to do it again? Life is for living, not
     contemplating and overthinking.”
     Pre-pandemic, the host of the Travel
     Channel’s Mysterious Islands and,
     more recently, of Travel + Leisure’s
     “Let’s Go Together” podcast trav-
     elled at least twice a month for her
     projects or for fun. For now, she
     welcomes the opportunity to explore
     within the U.S. and her third trip
     to Alaska, one of her favourite adven-
     ture playgrounds.

                                                                                             7.
     I DON’T LEAVE HOME WITHOUT:
     1.   My Lo & Sons O.G. 2 holds        6. I use the latest GoPro, the
     everything I need for flying and      only camera that can go any-            3.
     is perfect for taking to meetings     where I go by land, air, or sea.
     as well.
                                           7.   Garmin’s InReach Explor-
     2. Une Piece Sexy Rashie              er+ satellite communicator lets
     is UPF 50+, protects my arms,         me send a text from anywhere
     and comes in a great mix of           in the world to let loved ones
     solids and patterns.                  know I’m OK. Hi, Mom!

     3. The Patagonia Nano                 8. Rest & Renew satin
     Puff is compact, warm,                pillow protectors help me
     and travels well.                     avoid bed head.
                                                                                        9.
     4. I organise gadgets, cords, 9. The Yeti Panga
     and toiletries in Isaac Mizrahi       backpack 28 is waterproof
     mesh pouches.                         and extremely durable.

     5.                                    10.
                                                                                                  KELLEE EDWARDS

         I wear a red lip on all my              An EightyFive
     adventures, and Fenty Beauty          EightySix mesh sling bag holds
     Stunna lip paint lasts through-       smaller essentials for quick
     out the day.                          access on the go.                  5.

28   V I RT U O S O L I F E
A NE W EA SYGO IN G WAY TO G O ACTI V E

Easygoing E-biking,
Multi-Adventure                                          Relaxed pace.
and Walking Trips
                                                         Stylish comfort.
Set your own easygoing pace on a new
                                                         Unique access.
kind of Backroads journey. You choose
how each day unfolds, whether it’s                       Authentic
adagio or a bit up-tempo. Welcome                        experiences.
to active travel the way you want
to play it: Dolce Tempo.

        WE ARE YOUR ACTIVE TRAVEL EXPERTS
       Contact your Virtuoso Travel Advisor today for details and reservations.
Sustainable
                                                                  Travel Report

                                                 GREATER GOOD
                      Galápagos best practices, looking out for the locals, and industry insiders on travel’s future.
                      DC COLOMBIA/GETTY IMAGES
PHOTO CREDIT TKTKTK

                                                                                                         Natural intrigue: Bartolomé
                                                                                                            Island in the Galápagos.

                                                                                              S E PT E M B E R | O CTO B E R 2 0 2 0   31
SUSTA I N A BL E T R AV E L R E P ORT

     GOOD NEWS
     The latest in supporting local economies, celebrating cultures,
                                                                                                               An eagle hunter in
     and protecting the environment. REPORTED BY MARIKA CAIN                                                   Mongolia and (left)
                                                                                                               the Mwema Children
                                                                                                               Centre near Ele-
                                                                                                               wana The Manor.

                                                                                                             GOLDEN EAGLE
                                                                                                             STANDARD
                                                                                                             Nomadic Expeditions
                                                                                                             helped found Mongolia’s
                                                                                                             Golden Eagle Festival
                                                                                                             20 years ago, securing
                                                                                                             the continuation of the
                                                                                                             area’s ancient falconry
                                                                                                             tradition – and creat-
                                                                                                             ing an enduring draw
                                                                                                             for travellers. Now the
                                                                                                             tour operator is fund-
                                                                                                             ing a research initia-
                                                                                                             tive to support golden
                                                                                                             eagle conservation, a
                                                                                                             logical next step for this
                                                                                                             sustainability-minded
                                                                                                             operation. The proj-
                                                                                                             ect, conducted by the
                                                                                                             Wildlife Science and
                                                                                                                                          (EAGLE HUNTER) OLEH SLOBODENIUK/GETTY IMAGES, (SOAP) PANNONIA/GETTY IMAGES

                                                                                                             Conservation Center
     GOOD NEIGHBOURS                                                                                         of Mongolia, includes
                                                                                                             a study of western
     Through its charitable arm, safari com-                                                                 Mongolia’s golden eagle
     pany Elewana Collection has launched                                                                    population and review
     a fund for locals affected by the recent                                                                of the long cultural
     downturn in East African tourism. The                                                                   tradition of hunting with
     Land & Life Foundation’s Elewana Pamo-                                                                  golden eagles.
     ja Fund supports communities neigh-
     bouring Elewana’s properties through
     a variety of initiatives, from providing
                                                Raising the Bars
     meals for children at an orphanage and     Kempinski Hotels is turning waste into wellbeing through a new partnership with
     a girls school near Elewana The Manor      Clean the World. The organisation collects discarded soap from Kempinski proper-
     at Ngorongoro to supporting wildlife       ties, runs it through a refining and sanitisation process, reinvents it as fresh bars
     protection in Kenya and Tanzania.          of soap, and distributes it to groups such as World Vision and the Red Cross. The
     Travellers who want to pitch in can make   end result: Hygiene products that might otherwise be discarded instead wind up at
     donations through Elewana’s Land & Life    homeless shelters, food pantries, and refugee camps around the world, helping to
     Foundation. landandlife.foundation.        prevent disease – an especially squeaky-clean mission in Covid-19 times.

32   V I RT U O S O L I F E
TAKE
                                                                                    ONLY PICTURES                                                                                                               The Galápagos’ South
                                                                                                                                                                                                                     Plaza Island and
                                                                                                                                                                                                                 (above) Aura Banda.

                                                                                    Silversea naturalist guide and environmental
                                                                                    manager – and third-generation Galápagos
                                                                                    resident – Aura Banda on seeing her favourite
                                                                                    destination responsibly.

                                                                                    WHY THE GALÁPAGOS? The Galá-        WHAT ARE SOME TIPS FOR SUS-
                                                                                    pagos is one of the most pris-      TAINABLE WILDLIFE VIEWING?
                                                                                    tine archipelagos in the world.     When the time comes to
                                                                                    What you see now is probably        resume travel, start by choos-
                                                                                    not so different from what Dar-     ing the right company to travel
                                                                                    win saw in 1835. And on some        with. Companies that invest
                                                                                    islands, what you see is even       in the places they visit are also
                                                                                    better than what it was before,     contributing to the protec-
                                                                                    thanks to the amazing conser-       tion of the place. Once you
                                                                                    vation efforts and continued        encounter wildlife, observe it
                                                                                                                                                            Silversea Cruises’ 100-passenger, all-suite Silver Origin,
                                                                                    work of the Galápagos National      with respect. Don’t disturb the
                                                                                                                                                            a purpose-built Galápagos vessel, will preserve the region’s
                                                                                    Park. From Galápagos giant          animals, don’t call them, don’t
                                                                                                                                                            delicate sea floor with anchorless positioning technology and
                                                                                    tortoises to the only marine        feed them – just enjoy the privi-
                                                                                                                                                            minimise waste with in-suite water-purification systems that
                                                                                    iguana in the world, the only       lege of being there with them.
                                                                                                                                                            cut the need for single-use water bottles. Natural immersion
                                                                                    penguin that lives on the equa-     Take photos, but don’t take
                                                                                                                                                            prevails on board and on shore: Travellers can take in pristine
                                                                                    tor, and 17 different species       anything else. We don’t have to
                                                                                                                                                            seascapes and spot wildlife from ocean-view showers (in some
                                                                                    of Darwin’s finches, what you       take rocks, sand, and feathers
                                                                                                                                                            suites), and greet the archipelago’s marine iguanas, blue-
                                                                                    encounter here is truly unique.     as souvenirs. Contribute to
                                                                                                                                                            footed boobies, and sea lions up close during Zodiac tours and
                                                                                    Where else could you swim           NGOs or projects in the area.
                                                                                                                                                            guided island hikes.
(AURA BANDA) GREG ARANEA, (GALÁPAGOS) BLUEORANGE STUDIO/GETTY IMAGES/ISTOCK PHOTO

                                                                                    with penguins and parrotfish        Be an ambassador and spread
                                                                                    at the same time?                   the word about the importance
                                                                                                                        of visiting and keeping the
                                                                                    WHAT DO NATURALISTS BRING           place for future generations.
                                                                                    TO THE GALÁPAGOS EXPERIENCE?        The Silversea Fund for the
                                                                                    Visiting the islands without a      Galápagos will finance projects
                                                                                    naturalist guide is like watching   related to youth empower-
                                                                                                                                                                               The travel-size Rahua Enchanted
                                                                                    a fascinating nature documen-       ment, education and training,
                                                                                                                                                                              Island Lotion Mist features Galápa-
                                                                                    tary without the sound. Here,       and science, technology, and                          gos-inspired guava and passion fruit
                                                                                    naturalists are prepared by the     conservation. I believe that it’s                      oils, and donates a portion of pro-
                                                                                    Galápagos National Park, and        our responsibility to prepare                         ceeds to The Pink Flamingo Project,
                                                                                    they have to be permanent resi-     the children of the Galápagos                         which funds protection of Galápagos
                                                                                    dents of the islands. So when you   to protect the islands for                                     species. rahua.com.
                                                                                    visit the islands with a natural-   the future, and the only way
                                                                                    ist, you’re benefiting from the     to prepare them is to educate
                                                                                    insight of a person who knows       them about the importance
                                                                                    these islands intimately and has    of their home.
                                                                                    a deep passion for the region.           – Interview by Ariel Shearer

                                                                                                                                                                                           S E PT E M B E R | O CTO B E R 2 0 2 0   33
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