MERCURY RISING - The Globe and Mail
←
→
Page content transcription
If your browser does not render page correctly, please read the page content below
SUMMER 2018
MEN’S EDITION
MERCURY RISING
Introducing the cinematic style and contemplative
songwriting of JOSEPH OF MERCURY
FA S H I O N DESIGN E N T E R TA I N I N G
Lighten things up with a wardrobe of linen Build a bunkie for your growing brood Dive into the history of boozy punch
CONTENTS
MEN’S SUMMER 2O18
04 EDITOR’S LETTER
06 CONTRIBUTORS
Omnibus
08 BREAKING SWEATS
The founder of Reigning Champ explains how he helped
usher in the athletic-inspired men’s-wear trend.
PLUS Chanel redefines perfume for men, an escape to
Mexico and the colourful return of retro tiles in design.
14 SPRINGING FORWARD
For the final party roundup of the season, we take in a
floral-filled launch, Yayoi Kusama at the AGO and more.
Essentials
15 TAKE THE PLUNGE
A collection of dive watches combine technical
performance with fashionable faces.
18 FASHION/GROOMING
Stocking up on designer espadrilles and refreshing
your morning shave routine.
20 FATHER KNOWS BEST
From retro trainers to oversized blazers,
spring fashion takes a cue from dad’s closet.
22 DESIGN/TRAVEL
The Ace Hotel group debuts minimalist accommodations
and a guide to photo-centric getaways.
23 UPSTATE UPTAKE
Chris Johns visits Troutbeck in the Hudson Valley
to explore New York state’s creative renaissance.
26 FOOD/DRINK
Fairmont creates a signature gin using the spoils
of a hotel garden. Plus, how to up your grill game.
Features
28 IDOL THOUGHTS
Joseph of Mercury reimagines the nostalgic
look and throwback sound of classic crooners.
BY RANDI BERGMAN
PHOTOGRAPHY BY RENATA KAVEH
32 LET THERE BE LIGHT
From wrinkled linen to airy knits, the best
in new men’s wear channels a casual spirit.
PHOTOGRAPHY BY LILY + LILAC
STYLING BY ALON FREEMAN
40 TOP BUNKIES
Make room for growing families and cottage
crashers with a diminutive dwelling.
BY MATTHEW HAGUE
42 A PARTY WITH PUNCH
Communal cocktails that mix spirits, sweetness
and spice are just what your next bash needs.
BY JULIE VAN ROSENDAAL
40
PHOTOGRAPHY BY BARRY + KIRN
46 MUSICAL CHEERS
A new book by a pair of cocktail pros matches
signature drinks with iconic albums.
BY ANDREW SARDONE
T H E G LO B E A N D M A I L S T Y L E A D V I S O R 3
EDITOR’S LET TER
M E N ’ S S U M M E R 2 01 8
EDITORIAL DI REC TOR
PHOTO BY LILY + LILAC. LEMAIRE JACKET, $2,570 AT NEIGHBOUR (SHOPNEIGHBOUR.COM). BARENA VENEZIA OVERSHIRT, $339, WANT LES ESSENTIALS BAG, $475 AT NORDSTROM (NORDSTROM.COM). CANALI SHIRT, $275, DRIES VAN NOTEN TROUSERS, $810 AT HOLT RENFREW (HOLTRENFREW.COM). ACNE STUDIOS SHOES, $1,250 THROUGH ACNESTUDIOS.COM.
ANDREW SARDONE
ART DI REC TOR
BENJAMIN MACDONALD
Designer SARAH PAUL
Photo Editor RACHEL WINE
Copy Editor ALEX LAWS
CONTRI BUTORS
CAITLIN AGNEW, NATHALIE ATKINSON, WILSON BARRY,
RANDI BERGMAN, NOLAN BRYANT, MATTHEW CHOW,
ALANNA DAVEY, JEREMY FREED, ALON FREEMAN, MATTHEW
HAGUE, CHRIS JOHNS, RENATA KAVEH, RAINA KIRN, KRISTINA
LJUBANOVIC, SATY NAMVAR, LILAC NGUYEN, LILY NGUYEN,
ODESSA PALOMA PARKER, JAMES REIGER, SABRINA RINALDI, JULIE
VAN ROSENDAAL, PRATHA SAMYRAJAH, JOSEPH SARACENO,
TAYLOR SAVAGE, MARYAM SIDDIQI, CHRISTINE SISMONDO,
VICTORIA WALSH, BRADLEY WHITEHOUSE, WILSON WONG
ADVERTISI NG
Chief Revenue Officer
ANDREW SAUNDERS
Lifestyle Advertising Product Manager
EMMA BLACKBURN
PRODUC TION
Director, Production
SALLY PIRRI
PU BLISH ER
PHILLIP CRAWLEY
EDITOR- I N - CH I EF, TH E GLOBE AN D MAI L
DAVID WALMSLEY
MANAGING EDITOR, LONGFORM, FEATURES & OPINION
KEVIN SIU
LI FEST YLE EDITOR
A casual attitude
MARYAM SIDDIQI
infuses summer
H EAD OF VISUAL JOU RNALISM
men’s wear, from
MATT FREHNER
lightweight shirts
to full trousers and
woven accessories.
GET I N TOUCH
Follow us on Instagram @globestyle.
The Globe and Mail Style Advisor is published six times a year
E
by The Globe and Mail Inc., 351 King St. E., Suite 1600,
arlier this year I bought a pair Freed’s column on the rise of dadcore (“Father Toronto, M5A 0N1. Tel. 416-585-5000. The next issue will
of airplane pants. I called them knows best,” page 20) to our fashion feature be Sept. 7, 2018. Copyright 2018, The Globe and Mail.
“airplane pants” because they are Indexed in the Canadian Periodical Index. Advertising offices:
that advocates a summer wardrobe of rumpled
HEAD OFFICE The Globe and Mail, 351 King St. E., Suite 1600,
cut from a stretch-chino fabric linen (“Let there be light,” page 32). Toronto, M5A 0N1. Tel. 416-585-5111 or 1-866-999-9237.
and feature a drawstring waist, and Of course, if you think a blazer layered over BRANCH OFFICES Montreal: 514-982-3050.
because I swore I would only ever a hoodie is the seventh sign of the apocalypse, Vancouver: 604-685-0308.
wear them on overnight flights where they would there’s still lots of capital F men’s fashion to covet
offer discreet comfort, the waistband hidden GEN ER AL
for summer. From the bold Hawaiian prints worn
Toronto: 416-585-5111. Montreal: 514-982-3050.
under a sweater or sports jacket. Within a by musician Joseph of Mercury in the cover Vancouver: 604-685-0308. Toll-free: 1-866-999-9ADS(237).
week of returning home, however, I had quickly feature (“Idol thoughts,” page 28) to a round up Email: advertising@globeandmail.com.
rationalized how equally well-suited said slacks of elevated espadrilles (“On the ropes,” page 18)
United States and countries outside of North America:
were to Saturday-morning coffee runs, grocery and designer dive watches (“Take the plunge,”
NewBase, Oliver Eills, Managing Director,
shopping and entertaining at home. page 15), the men’s-wear world still offers plenty 212-330-0735, e-mail: oliver.eills@thenewbase.com;
As the ubiquity of Lululemon leggings, Ugg of ways to play dress up. Just be prepared to show Dawn Erickson, Fashion & Luxury Account Director, 212-946-0203,
boots and, this season, men’s wear that takes some respect to the guy sitting across from you e-mail: dawn.erickson@thenewbase.com. Publications mail
sartorial cues from athletic clothing teaches us, a in a designer bucket hat. As far as spring 2018’s registration no. 7418. The publisher accepts no responsibility
for unsolicited manuscripts, transparencies or other material.
sense of ease is addictive. And lucrative. This trend diviners are concerned, he’s stylish too.
Printed in Canada by Transcontinental Printing Inc.
issue of The Globe and Mail Style Advisor opens
with a profile of Reigning Champ (“Breaking
sweats,” page 8), the Canadian brand that saw
the athleisure trend coming long before every
Italian suit label started adding elastic cuffs to
dress pants. An examination of the casualization Andrew Sardone In instances where a company provides support to The Globe and Mail
Style Advisor, that company does not review or approve a story prior
of our wardrobes continues through Jeremy Editorial Director to publication. In this issue, those stories include “Natural beauty”
(page 12) and “Upstate uptake” (page 23).
NEWSLETTER INSTAGRAM ON THE COVER
Every Thursday, The Globe and Mail’s For the latest style commentary and Marni polo, $810 at Holt Renfrew
style newsletter features fashion, inspiration from The Globe and Mail, (holtrenfrew.com). Paul & Joe trousers,
design and entertaining news plus follow @GlobeStyle on Instagram, $400 at La Maison Simons (simons.ca).
cross-Canada shopping tips. Sign up through and don’t forget to tag your Style Advisor Shinola belt, $120 at Nordstrom
theglobeandmail.com/newsletters. posts with #GlobeStyleAdvisor. (nordstrom.com). Photo by Renata Kaveh.
4 T H E G LO B E A N D M A I L S T Y L E A D V I S O R
CONTRI BUTORS
The magazine’s writers, photographers and stylists debate that age-old
sartorial conundrum: Is it better to be underdressed or overdressed?
I’m biased because my personal style is
casual, but I think to be well underdressed is
the ultimate style achievement. Look around
any party and the guests with the best style
are usually the ones who are slightly undone.
BRADLEY WHITEHOUSE
worked on two stories for this
issue of The Globe and Mail
Style Advisor: a profile of the When in doubt, overdress. Life is too
Canadian athleisure brand short to be boring and to worry about
Reigning Champ (“Breaking
sweats,” PAGE 8) and a piece dress codes. If you feel like stepping out
on luxury dive watches in a gown to play Ping-Pong, do it.
(“Take the plunge,” PAGE 15).
Photographer RENATA KAVEH,
I’m a believer in the Italian concept an alumnus of The Globe
of sprezzatura – a certain nonchalance, and Mail’s annual best dressed
list, brings her impeccable
a studied carelessness, artful dressing eye to photographing cover
without looking like you’re sweating it. star Joseph of Mercury
(“Idol thoughts,” PAGE 28)
A Toronto-based wardrobe I lean toward being overdressed.
stylist, freelance fashion editor
and journalist, ALON FREEMAN
This probably happens because of
styled an editorial shoot my obsession with vintage dresses.
featuring linen men’s wear
(“Let there be light,” PAGE 32),
Sometimes people remark that I
which he describes as look fancy, but I’m actually just too
a meditation on texture
and detail.
lazy or incapable to coordinate a
top-and-bottom outfit.
Underdressed. I recently went to a fancy Food writer, stylist and recipe
developer VICTORIA WALSH
dinner party that I didn’t realize was fancy. took on bartending duties for a
I arrived wearing a bright red Coca-Cola communal cocktail shoot (“A party
with punch,” PAGE 42), which
sweater from the ’90s and blue jeans. At first, included a recipe from the book
I was mortified. Everyone else was wearing she co-wrote with her husband,
A Field Guide to Canadian Cocktails.
suits and cocktail dresses. But in the end I
was shocked by how many compliments I got
MATTHEW HAGUE writes about
on my outfit that night. It was really an act
design, architecture and culture of stupidity, but people took it as a rebellion
from his home base in Toronto. against uptight clothes.
For this issue, he explores the
growing number of small-scale
options for cottagers looking
to expand their holiday homes
(“Top bunkies,” PAGE 40).
6 T H E G LO B E A N D M A I L S T Y L E A D V I S O R
With its slimmer cuts and
focus on the minutiae
of stitching and sleeve
lengths, Reigning
Champ has built a rep for
elevated athletic wear.
N EW/N OT EW ORTH Y
PROFILE
Breaking
sweats
Canada’s Reigning Champ
has helped usher in a refined
era in casual men’s wear
G
iven the current
ubiquity of sweat-
pants in men’s
wear, it’s surprising
to hear Reigning
Champ founder
Craig Atkinson say the brand’s
signature joggers were considered
“pretty niche” when the label
launched just over 10 years
ago. “I don’t even know if
‘athleisure’ had been coined in
2007,” Atkinson says, referring
to the fashion portmanteau that
describes athletic leisure wear
designed more as street style
than for working out. “That
didn’t even come onto our radar.”
In the decade since, quality
sweatpants, crewnecks and hood-
ies have become staples in men’s
wardrobes as innovators like
Atkinson swap out bulky fits
and basic fabrics for tailored cuts
and custom-developed fleece.
Five stores and umpteen brand
collaborations later, the small-but-
mighty Reigning Champ is living
up to its name in the booming
market for premium active wear.
CON T I N U E D ON PAGE 10 9
8 T H E G LO B E A N D M A I L S T Y L E A D V I S O R
O
CON T I N U E D F ROM PAGE 8 9 GROOMING
It all started in Japan, where Atkinson
cut his teeth importing vintage men’s
wear for heritage-crazed customers
Feeling For years, fragrance has
been divided into two main
categories: cologne for him
before returning to Vancouver to set
up his own apparel-manufacturing
business. The attention to detail
he’d learned overseas earned him
blue and perfume for her. Aside
from scent divisions being
hopelessly outdated (it’s been
nearly a quarter century since
big-name clients like cult skateboarding CK One launched to a unisex audience, after all), they are over-
brand Supreme and premium outer- simplified and, in fact, incorrect. The distinction has nothing
wear outfitter Arc’teryx that appreci- to do with the sex of the wearer, but rather references the
ated his efforts to produce custom concentration of perfume essence in the scent, with cologne
knitwear fabrics. having the smallest and perfume containing the greatest.
Eventually, Atkinson grew bored It’s a misconception Chanel is set to challenge with the launch
of making things according to other of its new Bleu de Chanel Parfum, a musky perfume for men.
people’s specs. In 2004, he launched Chanel’s Available in June, it’s the third chapter in the Bleu de Chanel
Wings + Horns as a creative outlet. upcoming saga, a cedar-scented story that began in 2010 with an eau de
A few years later he decided to put his Bleu parfum toilette marketed toward the brand’s male clientele. This initial
concentrates
own label on the best-in-category fleece the fragrance
interpretation of the aromatic wood was one of a pine forest at
he’d perfected for other brands and and adds a the height of summer, accentuated by bitter grapefruit and dry
Reigning Champ was born. Atkinson layer of vetiver. Four years later, the eau de parfum’s ambery cedar and
chose to drop his other clients to sandalwood. musky notes were heightened with the addition of tonka bean.
focus on his own brands in 2013 and Today, Chanel’s in-house perfume creator Olivier Polge
Reigning Champ has since outpaced expands on cedar’s versatility with the addition of sandalwood
Wings + Horns in terms of sales. “The from New Caledonia in the South Pacific to the mix. “The diffi-
little brother has now become the big culty was trying to set the right tone to convey what a parfum for
brother,” Atkinson says. men could be,” Polge explains. The result is a worthy contempo-
With Reigning Champ, Atkinson rary of the more complicated and nuanced notes that women
has added a level of integrity to once have been enjoying for years. – CAITLIN AGNEW
basic sweatshirts, sweatpants and tees,
creating a more dignified ethos of casual Bleu de Chanel Parfum, starting at $116/50 mL at Chanel beauty counters
dressing that’s infiltrating the collec- beginning June 1 (chanel.com).
tions of dressier, designer labels. He’s
added details like flatlock seams and
bar tacks – geeky garment-industry stuff
that might go unnoticed by the average
customer but which Atkinson says add
depth and longevity to a seemingly
simple crewneck.
“The design details aren’t blatant.
They’re really only visible to the discern-
ing eye. That’s part of good design,”
Atkinson says. “You don’t know why
you like a product when you like it, but
when the fabric drapes a certain way or
the length of the sleeve hits right, you
might not be able to put your finger on
it but you get it on a subconscious level.”
Other brands certainly seem to get it.
Reigning Champ’s list of collaborators
reads like a mall directory, with everyone DESIGN
from Club Monaco to Converse, New
Balance, J. Crew, and New Era getting
in on the action, not to mention athletic-
wear giant Adidas signing up for a major
partnership. Next up is a Tokyo flagship
Throwing shapes
store opening early in 2019. Ten years In design, oftentimes looking forward means looking back. So it
in, it seems like Atkinson’s primo sweats came to pass that Catherine Bailey and Robin Petravic bought Heath
are here to stay. Might as well get Ceramics, the Sausalito, Calif.-based ceramics factory founded by Edith
comfortable. – BRADLEY WHITEHOUSE and Brian Heath in 1948. Since taking the helm in the early aughts,
Bailey and Petravic have expanded the operation while maintaining
For more information, visit reigningchamp.com. Heath’s core product line. “We have 70 years’ worth of history and
explorations around us that we’re adding to every day,” says Bailey.
Heath’s popular Dwell Patterns series features diamond and
Reigning Champ
founder Craig
hexagonal tiles in verdant made-to-order colours and matte, glossy
Atkinson created and crackle glazes. “We took three simple shapes and started working
the label in 2007. on patterns. Then you layer colour overtop and it’s like the possibilities
are infinite,” says Bailey. The Mural series offers pre-configured combi-
nations of matte and glossy diamond tiles in different glazes to create
Escher-esque effects in large installations (think balconies or pools)
or smaller spaces (powder rooms or feature walls).
Not content to sit still, Bailey et al. continue to play with the design
continuum. Heath’s original sculptural, three-dimensional tiles were
reintroduced in 2003, and the Stan Bitters series is a rough-hewn
tile inspired by the American sculptor who helped shape the organic
Modernist craft movement of the 1960s. “Those are important legacy
designs and they look amazing today,” says Bailey, who reinterprets Heath Ceramics tiles
the classics in contemporary colourways. “You don’t really know if adapt geometric shapes
it’s old or if it’s a nod to the design of that era.” – KRISTINA LJUBANOVIC and bold hues.
For more information, visit heathceramics.com.
10 T H E G LO B E A N D M A I L S T Y L E A D V I S O RO
FASHION
Badge of
Like so many great human
endeavours, almost four
decades ago Italian cult
honour
streetwear brand Stone
Island was born out of an
TRAVEL experiment. “This truck
tarpaulin ended up in
Natural the company and we tried to make jackets out of it,” says Carlo
Rivetti, the brand’s owner and creative director. “They were as
stiff as cardboard so we washed them over and over, and eventually,
beauty
they turned into treasure.”
Fortunately for Rivetti, the timing for such experimentation
couldn’t have been better. “On one side, designer men’s fashion was
starting, thanks to Mr. Armani and Valentino,” he says. “On the other
side, you had the American sportswear labels, like Ralph Lauren,
After enjoying a dinner of fresh lobster at a seaside Mukan really meaning something on the streets.” Into this burgeoning scene
table set up on the beach fronting the Mukan Resort Resort Stone Island launched its first collection of stylish, utilitarian jackets
on Mexico’s Yucatan Peninsula, one of my dining offers a with a removable logo buttoned to the left sleeve. Rivetti’s brand
front row
companions suddenly pointed towards the water. seat to the
bridged the gap between vintage military gear and designer
“Look at the horizon!” she said. It was the start of beauty of sportswear, a perfect anticipation of the fashion zeitgeist to come.
the evening’s moonrise and a glowing orange orb Mexico’s The first people to adopt Stone Island in a serious way were
was slowly floating up into the sky. It was just one Yucatan British football hooligans, for whom the brand’s combination
of several shows Mother Nature would stage during region. of militaristic aesthetics and weatherproofing was a perfect fit.
a weekend exploring the coast of the Sian Ka’an Its biggest boost since, however, has been an enthusiastic endorse-
biosphere reserve. ment by Drake, who’s regularly seen wearing Rivetti’s creations
While nearby Tulum bustles with boutique both onstage and off.
hotels, shops and restaurants, Mukan is another Holt Renfrew recently unveiled a 2,000 square foot pop-up shop
more intimate and luxurious world. The resort, at its Mississauga, Ont. outpost, featuring 45 of the brand’s spring/
which started welcoming guests earlier this year, summer pieces. Rivetti himself was in town for the opening, dressed
is accessed by boat or via an unpaved road from the in a dark Stone Island sweater featuring the brand’s signature logo
fishing village Punta Allen. The property’s goal is to on his arm. Thirty-six years after his first experiment, the world of
provide its 18 guests with the opportunity to truly fashion has changed completely, but the badge remains in place.
relax in one of its nine suites (a 10th will open later – JEREMY FREED
this year) and serve as a jumping-off point for fly-
fishing, sinkhole diving and lagoon tours. For more information, visit holtrenfrew.com. Holt Renfrew
The lagoon ride winds through the reserve’s is carrying a
mangrove forests, home to an active bird population capsule Stone
Island collection
(345 species live in the biosphere). Simply spending at its Square
half a day on the turquoise waters would have been One location.
enough to keep our group happy. But over the course
of four hours, we enjoyed visits from several osprey,
an eagle ray, turtles and a small family of dolphins.
It was just the amount of excitement we needed to
justify crawling into a sunbed upon our return, enjoy-
ing the view of the waves while we waited for Mother
Nature’s next performance. – MARYAM SIDDIQI
Room rates start at US$420 per night. For more information,
visit mukan.com.
DRINKS Think you’ve got what it takes to be Canada’s Next Top Craft Brewer?
More than a thousand Canadian beer geeks did when they entered an
Brew Innis and Gunn contest that asked the brewery’s fans to submit ideas for
creative new flavour combinations for a special limited-release beer. One
entry stood out, netting New Brunswick’s Don Guimond a trip to Scotland
Don Guimond
mastery in February, where, working with master Brewer Dougal Gunn Sharp, he
got to turn his dream of a rhubarb-coconut-vanilla Black IPA into a reality.
“It was kind of mind-blowing to be honest with you, because it was on
such a big scale and with a famous and popular brewer,” says Guimond, a
(above right) carpenter. “It was all a lot to take in.” Since Innis and Gunn barrel ages its
joined Innis and beers, it’s still too early to know how the final product will turn out, but
Gunn’s Dougal Guimond says the first batches had a fresh, earthy flavour that balanced out
Gunn Sharp at the tartness of the rhubarb. He was aiming for a tart and sour profile that
the company’s
brewery in Perth,
he thought would be interesting for a black IPA and present a challenge for
Scotland earlier Sharp. “Sometimes we feel the ideas are right on the edges of what we can
this year to brew do, and Don’s is a perfect example of that,” says Sharp. “But, after a few late
a custom IPA. nights and a lot of cursing and swearing, we came up with a way to do it.”
Sharp is anxious for it to fully mature, so “Don’s Choice” can head to
Grand Bay-Westfield, N.B., for a late-summer launch. “I really can’t wait
to get this beer bottled and into his hands, says Sharp. “I just want to be
there the minute he tries it for the first time. I think it will just blow him
away.” – CHRISTINE SISMONDO
For more information, visit innisandgunn.com.
12 T H E G LO B E A N D M A I L S T Y L E A D V I S O RO Suzanne Boyd.
Holt Renfrew’s Alison Coville
Alexandra Linda and Phil and Louanne
Weston, Calla Haynes. McGrory.
Haynes and
Devin Connell.
Partygoers prep
HOLTS AND CRUMB WELCOME SHISEIDO UNVEILS A YAYOI for their polka-
THE BOUCHAROUITE PROJECT KUSAMA COLLABORATION dotted preview.
Canadian-born, Paris-based Yayoi Kusama: Infinity Mirrors
designer Calla Haynes translates is breaking attendance records
leftover textiles into a new line at the Art Gallery of Ontario,
using boucharouite, a Moroccan and scoring a ticket to the
weaving technique. Repurposed self-reflective show has been
fabrics have made their way onto likened to winning the lottery.
slippers, scarves and pillows. Shiseido and Hudson’s Bay
All was on display at a private hosted a cocktail reception on
residence for the collection’s Ca- March 6 to launch Kusama’s
nadian launch on April 4, hosted collaboration with the Japanese
by Crumb founder Devin Connell beauty brand. The lucky few
and Alexandra Weston, director of in attendance hit the jackpot,
brand and creative strategy at Holt with the evening culminating
Renfrew, where the Boucharouite in a private, exclusive look
Victoria Webster and Project pop-up is being housed. at the exhibition.
Colette van den Thillart.
PARTIES
Spring flings Fashionable Canadians, eclectic buys and artful launches
kept NOLAN BRYANT busy early in the social season
THE BIRKS PÉTALE COLLECTION THE GLOBE TOASTS
LAUNCHES OVER LUNCH CANADA’S MOST STYLISH
Spring was ushered in at an The Globe and Mail hosted an
April 5 lunch hosted by Maison event with Hudson’s Bay on
Birks to mark the debut of its March 28 to mark this year’s
newest collection of jewellery. edition of its best-dressed list,
Fresh blooms filled Colette which was populated with
Grand Café in Toronto, fitting a bevy of Canadian creative
as the collection, Pétale, takes spirits from coast to coast
inspiration from the delicate who share the belief that
petals of flowers. Actor Amanda clothes and self-expression
Brugel, star of the latest Birks are symbiotic. Contributing
campaign called Canadian fashion editor Odessa Paloma
Rhapsody, was on hand for Parker lead a panel discus-
the midday do alongside pho- sion with a trio of the list’s
tographer Caitlin Cronenberg, stylish subjects, inspiring
Erica Wark and
Eva Hartling. who shot the spread. some post-talk shopping. Mirian Njoh.
Caitlin Cronenberg
PHOTO BY GEORGE PIMENTEL (HOLT RENFREW), RYAN EMBERLEY (BIRKS).
and Amanda Brugel.
Birks CEO Donté Colley and
Jean-Christophe Bedos. Madge Colleran. Jackie Kai Ellis.
14 T H E G LO B E A N D M A I L S T Y L E A D V I S O RINSIGHT/ACQUISITIONS
Y E L LOW S U B M A R I N E
The Breitling Avenger II Seawolf
packs a bold face inside a steel
case rated water-resistant to a
depth of 3,000 metres. A valve
incorporated into the piece helps
balance pressure inside and out-
side the watch. Avenger II Seawolf,
$4,460 at Breitling (breitling.com).
TAKE
THE
PLUNGE
For serious scuba buffs – and those who will
never descend lower than the far end of a pool –
the dive watch is reaching luxurious new depths
PHOTOGRAPHY BY S AT Y + P R AT H A
Market edit by Bradley Whitehouse. Prop styling by Wilson Wong for P1M.ca.
T H E G LO B E A N D M A I L S T Y L E A D V I S O R 15E
SHIP SHAPE
Only 1,000 editions of this dapper
diving watch were created to mark the
50th anniversary of its 1968 design. An
athletic strap further updates its look and
it’s rated to a relatively shallow – but still
altogether practical – 200 metres. Polaris
Memovox, $16,200 at Jaeger-LeCoultre
(jaeger-lecoultre.com).
AQ UA F I N E
While its titanium case in a
contemporary shape makes the
Oris Regulateur “Der Meistertaucher”
quite the looker, its maker empha-
sizes a safety-first focus with the
addition of a dedicated minute
display. Oris Regulateur “Der
Meistertaucher,” $4,100 through
authorized dealers (oris.ch).
16 T H E G LO B E A N D M A I L S T Y L E A D V I S O RGO UNDER
While a Rolex Sea-Dweller can dive
to 1,220 metres, this Deepsea model
can go deeper, descending to 3,900
metres. Its handsome Oyster brace-
let guarantees the watch will still
be on your wrist when you surface.
Rolex Deepsea, $13,850 through
authorized dealers (rolex.com).
MARIN E BAN D
Cartier takes its rep for refined
timepieces in a rugged direc-
tion with its rubber-strapped
Calibre de Cartier Diver model,
rated to 300 metres. Elements
like indicators and hands are
coated with photoluminescent
Super-LumiNova pigment.
Calibre de Cartier Diver,
$10,000 at Cartier (cartier.com).
T H E G LO B E A N D M A I L S T Y L E A D V I S O R 17FA S H I O N / G R O O M I N G
E A CUT The latest innovations
for your morning
ABOVE shave play up unique
ingredients and
personalized performance
HOP TO IT
Saint Laurent leather espadrilles,
In 1967, Redken became
$645 through ssense.com.
one of the first brands to
offer haircare designed for
men. Its new grooming line,
Redken Brews, includes
three products to manage
facial hair, and the skin be-
neath it, using beer-inspired
ingredients. Redken Brews
Shave Cream, $20 at salons
(redken.ca).
Fendi espadrilles, $640 at
Holt Renfrew (holtrenfrew.com).
MAN’S BEST FRIEND
British skincare brand Bull-
dog has hopped the pond,
bringing its vegan-friendly
products to Canadians.
Burberry checked espadrilles,
Its Beard Shampoo and
US$375 through mrporter.com.
Conditioner uses aloe vera,
Business meets camelina oil and green tea
casual at Paul extracts to cleanse and
Smith’s spring soften your scruff. Bulldog
2018 show, where Skincare for Men Original
the London Beard Shampoo and Con-
designer paired ditioner, $23 at Shoppers
his slip-ons Drug Mart and Pharmaprix
with suits. (bulldogskincare.com).
ON THE ROPES
Bottega Veneta suede espadrille
slip-ons, $670 at harryrosen.com.
With centuries of Mediterranean tradition on its side, the espadrille
has received a boost this season as brands like Paul Smith tweak CUSTOM CARE
the casual design to reflect a more sophisticated (and city-friendly) Cater to your skin’s changing
sensibility. Humble in silhouette and fabrication, the footwear is a needs with Schick’s new
quirky alternative to the loafer for summer. While Smith managed customizable five-blade
to make his colourful versions look respectable with suits, it’s razor. Available in three gel
recommended you reserve espadrilles for less-formal occasions. formulas – Hydrate, Sensi-
Canvas uppers with woven rope soles are the style’s most common tive and Energize – there’s
Castañer canvas espadrilles, combo, but Saint Laurent fashioned its slip-ons out of supple leath- an option for every mood
$150 through matchesfashion.com. er, making them perfect for pairing with crisp khakis and a white and moment. Schick Hydro
shirt. For beachy moments, Castañer, a Spanish brand founded in 5 Sense, $11 at food and
1927, plays with nautical stripes. No matter which pair you choose, drugstores (schick.ca).
adopt a strict no-socks rule when wearing them. Your liberated – CAITLIN AGNEW
ankles will thank you. – ODESSA PALOMA PARKER
LIME When life gives you lemons, make lemonade. Or, if you’re
Christine Nagel, the in-house perfumer at Hermès, create a new
LIGHT cologne. For the main ingredient in the new Eau de Citron Noir,
Nagel played with citrus, including a bold hesperidium, the black
lime. It’s a complicated fruit, marrying uplifting, sunny qualities
with a mysterious smokiness. Eau de Citron Noir was inspired by the brand’s
original cologne, 1979’s Eau d’Orange Vert, but layers elements that are both
elegant and sophisticated. The result is a vibrant splash that highlights the
black lime’s dark side, bringing the often overlooked duality of citrus notes
to the forefront. Billed by the French brand as a “midday to midnight cologne,”
PHOTO BY GETTY (PAUL SMITH).
it’s the ideal off-duty fragrance, best spritzed after a lazy morning before
heading out for a sunny day that stretches well into the evening. – C.A.
Hermès Eau de Citron Noir eau du cologne, starting $154 at hermes.com.
18 T H E G LO B E A N D M A I L S T Y L E A D V I S O R®
TOUR DU MONDE
DEDON COLLECTION MBRACE
Design by Sebastian Herkner
www.dedon.us
studiobhome.com I 380 king street east, toronto I t. 416 363 2996 I visitor parking
white glove delivery service I interior design consultationFA S H I O N
E
FAT H E R
KNOWS BEST
A perfect storm of trends – including straight-cut jeans, thick-soled trainers and
cotton caps – has, as reports JEREMY FREED, made dear old dad the season’s men’s-wear muse
T
he phrase, “You look like some- Just as punk trended thanks to the popularity of bands
body’s dad,” was once considered like the Ramones and the Clash, dadcore has its own
an insult to anyone who cared celebrity ambassadors, albeit often unintentional
about his clothes. This was for a ones. In addition to West, Barack Obama is often
good reason: To be fashionable cited for his very down-to-earth look, but not
often means being both uncom- all dadcore influencers are actually dads.
fortable and impractical, and the typical dad “I feel like the face of dad style is Leonardo
wardrobe is all about ease and utility. DiCaprio,” says Toronto-based stylist Marcus
Dads also generally have better things to Tripp, citing the actor’s fondness for over-
worry about than the width of their trousers sized cargo shorts, baseball caps and multi-
or whether mock-necks are still “in.” They’re pack T-shirts. “He doesn’t care! And when
busy earning salaries, making school lunches he decided to let it go, that made it okay
and doing their best to raise well-rounded, for everyone else.” Shia LaBeouf has
productive members of society. As such, dads also earned a reputation for being
have a reputation for wearing their oblivi- something of a dadcore dandy, thanks to
ousness to fashion on their ill-fitting sleeves. his penchant for Patagonia fleeces, Crocs
Thanks to the emergence of the dadcore trend, and old T-shirts tucked into his trousers.
however, the worlds of fashion and fatherdom have According to LaBeouf, West recently
officially collided. Dressing like dear old Papa, down raided his wardrobe for inspiration.
to the comfy shoes, straight-legged jeans and golf While dadcore may have launched
caps, is very in vogue. from the runways of Balenciaga and
It’s hard to say where dadcore began, but some Raf Simons (with other It brands like Vete-
point to the Ozweego 1 sneaker designed for Adidas ments and Off-White offering their own
by Raf Simons in 2013 as a pivotal moment. Chunky- takes on the look), it has proven an
soled and covered in oddly placed patches of pink, Balenciaga unexpected boon for OG dad-style
brown, yellow and emerald green, it was equal parts emphasized its dad brands like New Balance, whose
ugly and functional – a dog whistle to dads if ever influence by sending classic 990 sneaker has seen a
models toting children
there was one. Three years later, Kanye West appeared resurgence in popularity. “The
down its spring runway
in front of 20,000 fashion zealots at Madison Square (left). A selection of dad- 990 is our king of dad style,” says
Garden to launch his Yeezy Season 3 collection dressed inspired buys (below, David Korell, head merchan-
in baggy, mismatched sweats and a cap with a curved clockwise): Marni shirt, diser for New Balance Canada.
brim. There are many fashion designers who are dads, $850 at Holt Renfrew Introduced as a high-end run-
of course, but West is the first to actually dress like one. (holtrenfrew.com). ning shoe in 1982, what the 990
New Balance 990, $260
For summer 2018, Balenciaga designer Demna through newbalance.ca.
has lost in technical advantage
Gvasalia presented a men’s-wear collection of wide, Calvin Klein 205W39NYC over the years, it has gained in
strangely fitting blazers, billowy shirts and rumpled cap, $200 through fashion cred. “Modern shoes
khakis inspired, he said, by dads he saw in the park. ssense.com. are all sleek and thin, but these
Shuffling down the runway with an assortment of small are intended not to be,” says Korell,
children in tow, his models brought that inspiration to citing Apple founder Steve Jobs – another
life, minus the dad bods and thinning hair. dadcore icon – among the 990’s loyalists.
For those who pay close attention to fashion’s “Comfort is the foundation, but now it’s
swinging pendulum, dadcore is both novel and familiar. become fashion.”
“It’s a reaction to what fashion was five, six, eight years Korell estimates sales of dad shoes
ago,” says Simon Rasmussen, creative director of to non-dads will stay strong for at
Office, a New York-based fashion magazine. least a couple more years,
“It was super pretty – unrealistically pretty. an estimate supported by a
A dad just puts on a jacket and weird Balenciaga fall collection full of
colour combinations and stonewashed boot-cut denim, fanny packs and
denim that’s not fashion at all… that’s oversized jackets. As with any
the counter-reaction.” trend, some will get it, some won’t,
Of course, this isn’t the first time and eventually designers will move
fashion has rebelled against its own onto their next muse.
ideals. Forty years ago the punk aesthet- There’s one group, however,
ic arose in protest of the glittery excesses of who will certainly remain un-
the disco era. Substitute thick-soled trainers and changed by the dadcore era: dads
wide-leg chinos for combat boots and safety-pinned themselves. Despite being the most
jeans (plus the comforting nostalgia of wearing your fashionable people in the world
dad’s oversized clothes) and you’ve got at least part right now, dads remain obliviously im-
PHOTO BY GETTY (BALENCIAGA).
of the explanation of dadcore’s appeal. mune to the whims of fashion as ever.
20 T H E G LO B E A N D M A I L S T Y L E A D V I S O RUnique and captivating flooring
is our Signature.
At Signature by Shelley Alexanian you’ll find exceptional flooring products from around
the world, all displayed in a sophisticated and comfortable boutique-style setting that’s unlike
any other. From exclusive pure wool carpets to the most modern and exotic hardwoods,
and more, you are sure to find stunning flooring that will make your home stand out.
Now and for years to come, all offered with expert advice, service and installation.
WOOL CARPET • HARDWOOD • AREA RUGS • LUXURY VINYL
TILE & MARBLE • WINDOW COVERINGS & CALIFORNIA SHUTTERS
AVE.
IRN
LENCA
G
.
RIN ST
D.
N .
ONIA R
AVE
LD
FI E
DUFFE
C A STLE
ST.
CALED
KEELE
.
AVE
SignatureByShelley.ca 81 Ronald Ave., Toronto
ALD
.
RON
E. W
N AV
416-613-7777 (At Castlefield Ave.) EGL
INTOD E S I G N / T R AV E L
E
S HOT LIST
The best souvenirs are the pictures you take
yourself, which is why travel companies are
focusing on photo-centric experiences
DEPTH OF FIELD
While the itinerary for the G Adventures and
National Geographic Paris and Normandy
Highlights trip includes visits to the D-Day landing
beaches and Claude Monet’s garden in Giverny,
shutterbugs will covet their time visiting the
studio of renowned NatGeo photographer
EASY GOING Reza, meeting with his assistants and learning
about his work in conflict zones. For more
information, visit gadventures.com
The Ace Hotel company is launching a minimalist
counterpoint to its eclectic locations
Nineteen years ago, the first Ace Hotel opened in Seattle as a home away from
home for the creative class. The signature Ace experience included eclectic decor,
thoughtful arts-driven programming and a convivial lobby used as much as a hang-
out by locals as guests. This fall, the team behind the Ace name, which now oper-
ates nine properties, will debut a new brand called Sister City, in Lower Manhattan.
While the look of Ace Hotels is all about lush leathers, art in every corner and Edi-
son bulbs aplenty, Sister City will take a more refined and minimalist approach that
the company calls “essentialism.” The 200-room property takes inspiration from
Finnish and Japanese design, incorporating simple wood furniture with soft angles
and hidden compartments that ensure travellers have what they need without
superfluous clutter. The aesthetic is what Kelly Sawdon, chief brand officer of Atelier
Ace (the company’s in-house creative department), calls “inviting, yet refined.”
Sister City’s minimalist ethos isn’t so much about blazing a new trail in hospital-
ity but answering a call. “We always go where our instincts take us and put a lot of ZOOM IN
trust in new ideas. This hotel is a response to the noise of the modern world, an You’ll want to relive your encounters with the
experiment in considering what’s truly needed for today’s travellers,” says Sawdon. Big Five at home, which is why Londolozi, a Relais &
“We asked ourselves what we’d want from a hotel and found that it was something Châteaux property in South Africa, has a comprehen-
that championed functional design and simple pleasures.” sive camera-equipment rental shop and editing studio
It’s all about creating an oasis from a rushed and often over-stimulated urban on-site. Photographic safaris are also an option,
life. “Yes, we need warmth, food and shelter,” Sawdon says. “But we also need with a private vehicle and professional photography
beauty, moments of curiosity and respite, too.” – MARYAM SIDDIQI tutor along for the ride. For more information,
visit photography.londolozi.com.
For more information, visit sistercitynyc.com.
SCREEN For all the strides that have been
made using clever industrial design
to make the ever-present objects
TIME of everyday life more aesthetically
pleasing, television sets are still,
literally, the black holes of refined
aesthetics in our homes. So it’s somewhat surprising
that a TV launched two-and-a-half years ago to tackle
the mundane nature of screens has remained so under
the radar. The Samsung Serif, which is now carried
by EQ3 in Canada as part of its In Good Company
lineup, is a 40-inch 4K set with all the Smart TV bells WHITE BALANCE
and whistles, but it stands out for its style. Created by Capture captivating icebergs with Silversea’s
French brothers Ronan and Erwan Bouroullec, a white My Photo Academy program, which launches
case with a profile that mimics the letter “I” sits atop this year on Antarctica cruises aboard the Silver
thin black legs. It’s accented by a fabric panel on the Cloud ship. Passengers, via personal and group
back that hides wires and connections, allowing the lessons, can make use of an onboard photo
television to float anywhere in your space, so you can studio equipped with computers, photo-editing
fixate on your favourite Netflix show and not the nasty software and printers. For more information,
tangle of cords. – ANDREW SARDONE visit silversea.com. – M.S.
Samsung Serif TV 40”, $1,999 at EQ3 (eq3.com).
22 T H E G LO B E A N D M A I L S T Y L E A D V I S O RBuilt in 1919, the Troutbeck
manor house (left) is
home to quiet reading
nooks (below), a hand-
some bar (below left) and
17 of the estate’s guest
rooms (bottom).
UPSTATE UPTAKE
A centuries-old New York property has been revamped as a hub for the
area’s creative renaissance. CHRIS JOHNS books a room at Troutbeck
A
winding path takes you past ancient trees, over an century elements (curved wainscotting around the headboards,
arched stone bridge that spans a babbling creek and Hans Wegner chairs in the dining room) against contemporary light
leads to the front door of a stately stone and slate fixtures and the home’s historic details. Whimsical touches – such
manor house. Inside the hearths are lit, filling the air as pink bar stools around a copper-topped bar or a nook lined with
with a subtle smokiness, and staff bustle about. This vintage Chinois wallpaper – lighten up what could otherwise feel
is Troutbeck, a magnificent 250-year-old hideaway like a formal space. In the library, among the vintage board games
that has drawn the smart set – naturalist John Burroughs, writers and children’s books, volumes from the collection of the original
Mark Twain and Ernest Hemingway, and civil rights activist W.E.B. Du owners, the Benton family, line the shelves.
Bois included – to Dutchess County in New York’s Hudson Valley for The space is so comfortable that, by the second day of my visit,
centuries. I’m padding down to the pantry in my slippers to grab a cookie for
By the time Anthony Champalimaud saw it in 2011, however, my daughter and living in the space as if it were the private home of
the property was rundown and dated. Nevertheless, the Montreal- some especially generous friends. In addition to the main 17-room
born hotelier, who spent his childhood summers in nearby house, there’s a 12-room annex and two four-bedroom cottages
Lichtfield, CT, saw immense potential and reinvented the scattered among the tennis courts, pool and hammocks. Another
private home as the ideal upstate summer escape. four bedrooms are slated for a house that overlooks a walled garden
Over good coffee in the bright lounge, Champalimaud explains and the old indoor swimming pool complex will be transformed
what drew him to the project. “We were immediately taken by the into a wellness space as the revamp of the 45-acre estate continues.
property and its story,” he says. “But what’s typically done with It would be all too easy to visit and never leave the grounds, but
places like this is people turn them into housing museums. You there’s lots happening nearby to tempt you off property. Twelve
fix them in time and they become a caricature. We thought, well, miles of winding, tree-lined road away, the posh Connecticut town
another approach is to live in it, of Kent is gaining renown as a destination for serious intellectual
to restore its spirit and energy heft thanks to the four-year-old KentPresents Ideas Festival. Henry
and set it in motion again.” Kissinger is a regular at the mid-August gathering along with New
Champalimaud didn’t have to Yorker theater critic Hilton Als and 60 Minutes correspondent
look far to find a collaborator to Lesley Stahl. In nearby Sharon, Conn., the renowned painter Jasper
help him reinvent the space. His Johns has reached an agreement with the bucolic town to turn his
mother is the renowned design- 170-acre estate into an artist’s retreat after his death.
er Alexandra Champalimaud, Ten minutes south of Troutbeck is the industrial hamlet of
whose high-profile hospitality Wassaic, N.Y., which used to be a centre for steel production.
projects include the Carlyle Now Bowie Zunino, her husband Jeff Barnett-Winsby and their
Hotel in New York City and co-director Eve Biddle have transformed its grain elevator into a
the Hotel Bel-Air in Los Angeles. massive exhibition space. The old saloon has become, according
At Troutbeck, she played mid- to Zunino, “a dive bar for kids,” with a bouncy castle and delicious
pizza. Artists come from around the world to work from studios in a
converted livestock auction building. In August, the annual Wassaic
Project festival draws thousands of art, music and dance lovers.
“We’re not alone in being young people who have moved here
and who are making lives here. That’s really started to pick up in
the past three years,” says Champalimaud of the area’s new inhab-
itants, many of whom are accustomed to a more organic mode of
socializing. “Our parents’ generation used the place a bit differently.
There are shooting clubs and polo clubs and fly fishing clubs and all
sorts of great stuff, but people kept to themselves a little bit. There
were very few places to congregate. We think that was missing and
believe Troutbeck satisfies that.”
Room rates start at $375/night. For more information, visit troutbeck.com.
T H E G LO B E A N D M A I L S T Y L E A D V I S O R 23Go Canada
Discover our collection of over 150 better-than-good reasons to Go Canada, with off-the-beaten-path gems
and exceptional experiences from coast to coast.
Embark on a Wildlife Adventure with a 6-day escape Explore from Halifax to Montreal on an 8-day rail
to BC’s remote Great Bear Rainforest via Vancouver journey. Experience a Harbour Hopper tour and
and enjoy grizzly-watching, sea kayaking, coastal half-day city bike tour to visit the famous Jean-Talon
ecology talks and dreamy nature lodges. Grizzly Bear market and taste local delicacies. From Lobster
Viewing, Farewell Harbour Lodge | Wildlife Adventure to Poutine | Fly & Rail Tour
Close to Home. Far from Ordinary Thrive on a 4-day Urban Getaway to Vancouver. Join a tour in Halifax that takes you through Prince
Explore landmarks like the vast Stanley Park, the Edward Island and down the famous Cabot Trail in
beautiful English Bay and the world-famous Vancouver Cape Breton. Discover the rustic charm of Peggy’s
Aquarium using your 2-day Hop-On/Hop-Off pass! Cove and travel down to the Unesco World Heritage
Vancouver | Urban Getaway town of Lunenburg. Enchanting Islands | Guided Tour
URBAN GUIDED WILDLIFE FLY & DRIVE FLY & RAIL GOLF SKI WINTER
GETAWAYS TOURS ADVENTURES VACATIONS VACATIONS VACATIONS VACATIONS ADVENTURES
Many more Canada adventures on
aircanadavacations.com
Flights operated by Air Canada or Air Canada Rouge. For applicable terms and conditions, consult aircanadavacations.com.
Holder of Quebec permit #702566. TICO registration #50013537. BC registration #32229. ■ ®Aeroplan is a registered
trademark of Aimia Canada Inc. ®Air Canada Vacations is a registered trademark of Air Canada, used under license by
Touram Limited Partnership, 1440 St. Catherine W., Suite 600, Montreal, QC.
ME-1067FOOD/DRINK
E GRILL POWER
If you roll your eyes at a grill pan and
turn your nose up at a hibachi, it might be time
to procure a professional-grade barbecue
EGG HEAD
Descending from ancient Asian clay Kamada cook-
ing vessels, the Big Green Egg evolved to feature
ceramics originally developed by NASA. The brand
is widely respected in the food industry and not
just because the XXL size holds up to 16 chickens.
Big Green Egg XXL Egg Kit,
$5,799 through biggreenegg.ca.
PULL PORK
The mobile Lil’ Pig Pellet Grill gives new meaning
to the words “hog roast.” A built-in pellet drawer
infuses the meat (including up to four chickens at a
time) with a variety of smoky wood flavours and a
digital dual thermometer ensures thorough cooking.
Traeger Lil’ Pig Pellet Grill,
$2,499.99 through traergrills.ca.
HOT TIPPLE SMOKE SHOW
A Canadian hotel capitalizes on its on- Its shape might resemble a refrigerator, but the
site garden to distill a unique new spirit Bradley Smart Smoker is nothing but hot. The 5,032
cm2 cooking space can be controlled via a smart-
When Toronto’s Royal York Hotel opened phone, and with an automatic chip-refilling function,
its doors across from Union Station in it can smoke for up to nine hours. – ALEX LAWS
1929, it wasn’t just the heyday of elegant
railway travel. It was also the golden age of Bradley Smart Smoker, $799.99 at canadiantire.ca.
Prohibition-era gin cocktails like the Southside,
French 75 and Bee’s Knees. The hotel’s storied
Library Bar still mixes top-notch versions of
these classics, and now it will be crafting the
libations using a spirit that takes the notion
of drinking local to a whole new level.
All the way up to the 14th floor of the hotel
to be exact, where its urban garden provided
the fragrant lemon verbena that’s the domi-
DINING
nant aromatic in the Royal York’s new 14th in
Line gin. To create its exclusive spirit, Fairmont
turned to Dillon’s, a small-batch distiller based
in Beamsville in Ontario’s Niagara wine region.
Since opening in 2012, Dillon’s has crafted
several notable gins, ryes and other spirits
IN STYLE
as well as a wildly popular range of bitters, Housed in the Roman and
all using ingredients sustainably sourced Williams Guild design studio in
nearby. A sense of place infuses the craft Lower Manhattan, la Mercerie
distillery’s first-ever collaboration, from the Café provides a unique
100-percent-local rye base to the pineapple opportunity to shop while you
sage and nasturtium picked at the Royal York eat – tables, pendant lamps and
by head distiller Peter Dillon to give 14th in candle holders are part of Roman
Line its bright and savoury freshness. and Williams Guild’s Founding
As the hotel’s stately name suggests, Collection and are all available for
its illustrious guests have included noted gin purchase. The same goes for the
fan HM Queen Elizabeth II, and the moniker plates and napkins, meaning
of the Royal York spirit is also a nod to the customers can take home their
British sovereign’s succession list. As any leftovers and the dish ware and
diehard royal watcher knows, number 14 at utensils to eat them with. Conceived by dream-team designers Robin Standefer and Stephen Alesch,
the time of the gin’s conception was Princess the 44-seat café opened in March and features a handsome scheme of pale-grey floors offsetting an
Anne’s granddaughter Savannah Phillips, indigo enamel kitchen. The French-focused menu, overseen by James Beard award-winning
whose mother Autumn Kelly happens to restaurateur Stephen Starr and executive chef Marie-Aude Rose, includes classics such as buckwheat
be Canadian. – NATHALIE ATKINSON crepes, chicken with haricots verts and boeuf bourguignon. Chase your meal with a visit to the Guild’s
library stocked with Phaidon titles or pick up some blooms from on-site florist Emily Thompson. – A.L.
For more information, visit fairmont.com.
For more information, visit rwguild.com.
26 T H E G LO B E A N D M A I L S T Y L E A D V I S O RNE
W
DISCOVER NEW 78% CACAO
Awaken your senses with our newest rich dark chocolate. Masterfully
balanced smooth cocoa with sophisticated flavours of toasted nuts
complemented by elegant floral tones. Every creamy and delicate piece
of 78% Cacao is an experience worth savouring. Discover the world of
Excellence: a variety of exquisite chocolate recipes created with passion.
Lindt Master Chocolatiers since 1845.
LINDT EXCELLENCE. SO THIN. SO INTENSE.
LindtExcellence.comOvadia & Sons jacket, $1,200 at La Maison Simons (simon.ca). Maison Margiela shirt, $690 through ssense.com.
Acne Studios jeans, $338, Ted Baker belt, $109, at Nordstrom (nordstrom.com). Grenson x Gravity Pope shoes, $650 at Gravity Pope (gravitypope.com).
JJ O
OSS EE PPHH O
O FF M
M EE RRCCUU RRYY
S TA R S I N
IDOL T HOUGHTS
PHOTOGR APHY BY ST YLING BY GROOMING BY
RREENNATA
ATA M
MAT
ATTTHHEEW
W TAY
TAYLLO
ORR
KK AV
AV EE HH CC HHO
OWW SAVA
SAVAGG EE
Joseph of Mercury’s style is both cinematic and sensitive. As RANDI BERGMAN writes,
it’s a timely combination for a moment when pop culture is rethinking the men it reveres
28 T H E G LO B E A N D M A I L S T Y L E A D V I S O RPaul Smith shirt, $370, BOSS watch, $215 at Nordstrom (nordstrom.com). Paul Smith trousers,
$370 at Hudson's Bay (thebay.com). Tiger of Sweden belt, $150 through ssense.com.
A
NOSTALGIC NOTION OF Americana self-titled synth-pop ode to love and longing that
has been used and abused as a feels perfectly timed for a world so over toxic mascu-
creative reference point since the linity. His lyrics are piercing, but his gaze is tender.
days when James Dean and Marilyn His first single, Find You Inside, is all about being
Monroe ruled the silver screen. At ditched at a party. When Salusbury arrived on the
its best, it’s Beyoncé’s reclamation Canadian scene a few years back, clad in a beat-up
of antebellum aesthetics on her white leather motorcycle jacket and skin-tight jeans,
2016 visual album, Lemonade, or he was impossible to miss. He was Brando meets
designer Raf Simons’ riffs on the Bowie, but there was something different about him.
abstract stars and stripes of artist Sterling Ruby in He was…evolved.
his reboot of the Calvin Klein label. At its worst, it’s When I meet Salusbury in Toronto in March, he’s
a throng of festivalgoers mashing up feathered wearing his latest sartorial calling card: a silk varsity
headdresses and cowboy boots at Coachella. jacket embroidered with an image of Mercury, the
With America’s political and social climate Roman god of eloquence. He seems authentic when
maxed out on disruption, it’s increasingly rare he explains the philosophy that drives him as an
to find any homage to the country’s golden era artist. “I’m trying to reach forward and reach back
that rings relevant. But an exception might have at the same time,” he says.
to be made for Joseph of Mercury, a Toronto-born Salusbury’s deep baritone is something he’s been
crooner whose widow-peaked guise seems plucked crafting since his grandfather introduced him to
right out of dreamy 1950s celluloid. Frank Sinatra at an early age. “I was always a musical
Mercury, 29, whose real name is Joseph W. kid, but even before that I was a real mimic,” he tells
Salusbury, is riding the buzz of his first EP, a me. “I would try to mimic other people’s voices and I
T H E G LO B E A N D M A I L S T Y L E A D V I S O R 29Off-White shirt, $885 at CNTRBND (cntrbndshop.com). Paul Smith trousers,
$400 at La Maison Simons (simons.ca). Paul and Shark belt, $230 at Harry Rosen (harryrosen.com).
had a really good memory for little monologues from others of every shape, colour, age, truth and romantic
old films. It became a party trick for the adults.” preference,” he says. “I don’t think I’ve ever isolated
As a teenager, Salusbury began writing short myself from the knowledge and influence of any of
stories and poetry, which drew him to major in them, just because they didn’t look or behave like
English at the University of Toronto. “Being forced me at first glance.”
to write in an academic way really broke my relation- After giving up on school, Salusbury began
ship with writing,” he says. On his time off, he’d write travelling and experimenting with bands both big
unstructured, stream-of-consciousness verses and and small, eventually leading him to connect with
teach himself to play a variety of instruments includ- guitarist Patrick Greenaway, a regular collaborator
ing guitar, bass, piano and drums. “I would just tap with The Weeknd. “We put down like 50 songs over
on a counter in an echoey stairwell and sort of begin the course of six months,” he says. He earned his
to sing-talk,” he says. “At first, I was imitating Elliott chops working with other artists, including co-
Smith – that unassuming, whispery, breathy vocal – writing Majid Jordan’s hit Something About You
but then I sort of accidentally slipped into the and doing vocal production on Nelly Furtado
crooning way I sang when I was a kid,” he says. “So and Blood Orange’s collaboration Hadron Collider.
I landed somewhere in the middle: early rock ’n’ roll “I’m the person that comes into the room, angles all
meets Chris Isaak. It felt romantic and dramatic.” the furniture seven and a third degrees to the left,
As much as he found sonic kinship with singers dims the lights until things feel a certain way, and
from the past, his lyrics (i.e. “Tell me everything then stands back to let all the work of others shine
you’re feeling. Spare no detail from me now.”) speak through,” he says of the collaborations. “Because
to a much more contemporary idea of attraction and they don’t really need you, but perhaps they just
affection. “I have grown up and have found, through want that little something more that you have
friendship, love, some very strong women, men and to give.”
30 T H E G LO B E A N D M A I L S T Y L E A D V I S O RYou can also read
