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.1
i a ’ s No zine
Ind Maga
l
T r av e
www.outlooktraveller.com
April 2020 • `100
Opinion
Jose Dominic
Nostalgia
The Delhi That Was
In Memoriam
Floyd Cardoz
Photo Special
Travel
in the Time of
Corona
8 904150 800003 04 Orchha n Meghalaya n Lakshadweep n Baku
Editor
Contents
Contents
Amit Dixit
Senior Correspondent
volume 20
54 32
Labanya Maitra
Correspondent
issue 04 Anshika Nagar
Sub-editors
Nayanika Mukherjee
Roshni Subramanian
Deputy photo editor
april 2020 Shruti Singh
Senior Photographer
Puneet K. Paliwal
Assistant Art Director
Rehana Farhan Shaikh
Designers
Gulshan Sharma,
Rangeet Ghosh
DTP Operator
Kuldeep Kalia
Outlooktraveller.com
Features Writers
Sahana Iyer, Simrran gill
Contributing Writer
Uttara Gangopadhyay
Consulting Editor
Anuradha Sengupta
Librarian
42 48
Alka Gupta
BUSINESS OFFICE
CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER
indranil roy
Publisher
Sanchita Tyagi Rawat
Advertisements
Senior Vice President
Meenakshi Akash (Events)
Vice President
Shrutika Dewan (brand & marketing)
Digital Team
Amit Mishra
Circulation & Subscription
Anindya Banerjee
Gagan Kohli
Asst. General Managers
G. Ramesh (south)
Vinod Kumar (north)
Zonal sales manager
Arun Kumar Jha (east)
Manager BACK
OF THE
BOOK 04.20… Time Traveller
Shekhar Suvarna
n Book Reviews n On the Shelf n Where on Earth?
Features
Newly-fitted observation
car of the 20th Century
Production
Limited in 1948
TIME
TRAVELLER
General manager
NEW YORK, 1948
l When the 20th Century Limited first
ran in 1902, it was nothing extraordinary.
Connecting New York City to Chicago in
20 hours, it had two amenities: a slick
Shashank dixit
barbershop, and secretarial help, with ‘no
excitement along the way’. How, then, did
this express passenger train fascinate the
likes of Hitchcock and Rand, enough to be
32 delhi
immortalised in their works? It’s all thanks
74 maldives
to the pitch-perfect design. Industrial
pioneer Henry Dreyfuss had his pulse on
Chief manager
the rising popularity of Art Deco and was
commissioned in 1938 to create streamlined
train sets in the style, melding luxurious
craftsmanship with blue-grey locomotive
and passenger cars. Colourful but refined,
the makeover came smack in the middle
of old Hollywood glam. As she chugged off
Shekhar Kumar Pandey
from New York at 6pm, business tycoons and
by Aman Nath Manek S. Kohli
movie stars would hobnob over Manhattans
and martinis in the lounge car. Closer to
by
midnight, filet mignon and lobster would be
polished off, with most retiring to suites or
curtained berths with a nightcap. The good
night’s sleep on board was hotly advertised,
Manager
against the rugged mountain route taken by
the Pennsylvania Railroad. A decade later,
diesel-electrics replaced steam, and a new
set began its trial run along the Hudson River,
whose stylish observation car you see on
the left. But while every famous passenger—
be it Coco Chanel or Bing Crosby—made
Sudha sharma
headlines, it’s the celebrity treatment before
boarding that had folks swooning. Staff would
42 orchha 80 tribute: floyd cardoz
unfurl a football field-sized red carpet for
those departing from NYC, a taste of what
was to come. It’s what, in fact, led to the
coining of the phrase ‘red carpet treatment’.
Deputy Manager
We’re all craving a bit of luxury travel these
days, but if these were the ‘40s, no way could
you board in sweats. Aboard the 20th Century
Limited, things were strictly business.
n nayanika mukherjee
GETTY IMAGES
Ganesh Sah Ranee Sahaney Rupali Dean
84 OUTLOOK TRAVELLER • DECEMBER 2019 OUTLOOK TRAVELLER • DECEMBER 2019 85
by by
Associate Manager One track mind
Gaurav Shrivas page 84
48 meghalaya
Accounts by Roshni Subramanian
Vice President
Diwan Singh Bisht
54 lakshadweep
Company secretary & law officer by Rangeet Ghosh
Ankit Mangal
HEAD OFFICE
60 jodhpur
t r av e l & c o r o na
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s no e
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CHENNAI Tel: 42615224, 42615225 April 2020 • `100 11
12
Fax: 42615095
interview: bengaluru Tel: 43715021
jose dominic
by Radhika P. Nair
Printed and published by Indranil Roy on
behalf of Outlook Publishing (India) Private Jose Dominic
OpiniOn
nOstalgia
Regulars
Limited. Editor: Amit Dixit. The Delhi ThaT Was
Printed at International Print-O-Pac
in MeMOriaM
4 letters
22
FloyD carDoz
The future of photo essay
Photo Special
travel?
Limited, C4-C11, Phase II Noida & Travel 5 insider
published from AB-10 Safdarjung Enclave, in the Time of 6 nsew
Travel in the time of Corona New Delhi 110029. Corona Cover photograph: 16 hotels
Released on 01-04-2020 8 904150 800003 04 Orchha n Meghalaya n lakshadweep n Baku
shutterstock 84 back of the book
shutterstock
letters
letters
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February 2020 • `100
the
the month
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would aFinding
monthlythis story was
magazine cope?
from I’m half-hoping this whole Covid-19 thing turns out
50
March 2020 • `100
#RIGHTNOW
my tickets
be the immediately.
safest choice, andUnfortunately,
who better serendipitous, but I would
Those of us readers stuck athave
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the Editor in your editor not to mention us travellers—the pandemic has done
TRAVEL learn
take about the different
in the aroma of sidutribal
with dance
ghee andforms in the
green Chhattisgarh
chutney, and the next issue. sunita kher, bhopal
Why The Experiences a few other things of note; among them, the spawning
article
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Outlook
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appreciating So, I was glad and
cultures to see somethingisdifferent.
communities what it’s all about. everyday
Read, Sleep’ tourists
at theand was thrilled
airport, waiting chills me to the bones. But, truth is, we had social
2020
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dr gulbaharmayank s. sidhu,Jain, Jaipur
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over beautiful class during
photographs andit. Post’ section
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somehow the story
the great equaliser we all imagined it to be. In a country as stratified as ours,
March edition
Maldives was outstanding.
hotel story (‘A Speck in Mywell-made
culinary design. In your
repertoire, untilMarch
now, aimages by Indian
four-page story photographers.
like Sanghi’s, on Arunachal
missed Pradesh
this place (‘A Day’s
completely. The
I wasinmesmerised Worth’). The photos were wereso
quarantine is a privilege and social distancing a distant dream for most. So,
Blue’) the Feb ‘20by the The cool
issue. ‘20been
has edition, I found
stuck at somethe basic
opening Indian While I understand
ideally should haveitwanted
is an none. snow-covered landscapes
travelogue
blues and crisp on Bhutan (‘Bhutan
text transported pages
food, of the Vietnam
a handful of easy travelogue
cocktails, Indian
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is not what would OT
happened. charming and
absolutely colourful that
breathtaking and itI have while we keep our Insta engines chugging, migrant workers take the long walk
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to those Eat,beautiful
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and Rise In
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pizzas attractive.
and cakes. My consider
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alwaystoo. As to
hope always, OT is all the
find interesting Since we launched in June 2001, we’ve never skipped an issue. Our September
Who
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take it’s not possible
a break to be
of this nature, unusual, and stopped
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long-time reader, I experiences
with and,
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least
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manisha, Pho hoping for more detailed
sanaya dotiwala captions.
, itarsi into the everyday aspectnew
lalit sinha, of their
delhi (‘Getting High’) made me want
but this is the first time Outlook Traveller is coming out only in electronic form.
Chhu River with a rosary in hand, In a hills issue, forgetting southern tourist destinations. to pack for the hills. CORRIGENDUM
Literally. The
HillsInissue,
We could print it, yes, but there’s no way we would be able to get it to you.
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interesting read. But incorrectly
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standards.
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scholarly classified
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article helped The error About the issue itself: we’re still talking about travel because, well, that’s what
for us readers to bookmark and benefited from more personal wouldabout
know take in bringing
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food festival and reshape my itinerary. is deeply regretted. we do. But we’re also gazing tentatively into the future. And hoping fervently
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have a Kerala trip planned, andI much
reading long-format articles. magazine for the last few years,
it more gripping. I personally judge travel—is
were blocked
thrilled. everywhere.
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ro th
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@omitdixit
CITY MELAKA —AMIT DIXIT
SHUTTERSTOCK
On The Web This Month
Old Spice In January, outlooktraveller.com hit 4,00,000 monthly visitors, au naturel, as readers around the
world checked in for thrilling travel stories, videos and #OTAwards updates. Cut to three months
later, and we’re still comin’ in hot, with a blitz of hidden locations and global travel inspirations
lined up for April.
The Magic of n First, the elephant in the room—yes, we’ll be amping up more at-home, bucket list ideas while
Traveller Traveller
Traveller Traveller
Traveller Traveller
Traveller Traveller
WesT Bengal Covid-19 sweeps the world. A weekly, curated set of podcasts, vlogs and shows will immerse
OutlOOk traveller getaways
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pandemic-related travel news, and a few goodies. With travel restrictions in place, airlines have
The letter of the month become quite generous—check out our feature on deals you can nab for future travel.
The letter of the month n The lockdown also meant bulk buying and hoarding of vegetables, and now folks aren’t sure
has won a box set of Outlook
has won a box set of Outlook
Traveller Getaways: how to store them. Look out for our home econ-style hacks, sourced from both ancient and
Traveller Getaways:
The Magic of West Bengal
The Magic of West Bengal contemporary preserving traditions. Once you’re out of this pickle, take a gander at our new
column, ‘My Travels In 5 Objects’, where writers recount personal stories around time-worn
• Keep writing to us at: souvenirs. In the first instalment, it’s a journey from Kabul to Berlin as told by eminent writer Taran Khan. Speaking of close-ups, we’ll also be
• Keep wriTing To us aT:
A man cycling past
an old Chinese house; and
(right) Chinatown’s
Outlook Traveller
beautifully decorated doors
outlook Traveller sharing small, charming destinations, and unearthing buried secrets. Did you read our feature on an award-winning bookstore in Gangtok
AB-10 Safdarjung Enclave
MALAYSIA’S UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE TOWN WHERE FOOD AND DRINKS aB-10 safdarjung enclave (with a cafe and B&B)? Keep your eyes peeled for its little-known twin this month.
FLOW APLENTY, MELAKA IS THE PERFECT WEEKEND GETAWAY FOR THOSE New Delhi 110029
WITH SOME ENERGY TO SPARE, FINDS NIVEDANA JALAN new Delhi 110029 n In ‘How A Town Was Lost’, Labanya Maitra waxes eloquent about the odd art installations around Rhyolite, a ghost town in Nevada. One of
PHOTOGRAPHS: GETTY IMAGES letters@outlooktraveller.com
letters@outlooktraveller.com the several short-lived boomtowns from the US Gold Rush, it sprung up in 1904 and died by 1916. Can you think of an Indian parallel? No?
Then bookmark our micro-travel stories.
n We’ll be pushing for deeper journeys beyond ‘see-everything’ travel, and churn out weekly tips for every style, age and budget.
4 outlook traveller • april 2020
6 outlook traveller • MarCH 2020
edited by anshik a nagar
NORTH SOUTH EAST WEST
8 souvenir 9 global conquest
10 instatravel 11 gearbox
● china
A Wall of Hope
A
s the world sputters to a stop
(and we pen down this issue
from our homes) amid the
increasing cases of the deadly
coronavirus, China offers a ray
of hope vying for normalcy. The
country has reopened the Badaling section of the
Great Wall of China, after shutting the monument
due to the virus in January. The rest of the wall,
the cable car and the museum in Badaling are yet
to receive an opening date. The Badaling section,
which stretches from Bei Liu Lou to Nan Wu Lou
Ban, is one of the most-visited spots on the wall
and will now be open 9am to 4pm daily. This
Unesco World Heritage Site receives roughly
10 million people each year but, for now, only
30 per cent of the usual number will be allowed
in. China plans to take due measures to ensure
safety: tourists must buy their tickets in advance
at badalinggreatwall.com or through the WeChat
app popular in the country. Each tourist will be
A part of the Great checked with a registered Health QR code, and
Wall of China reopens have their temperatures taken upon entry. Visitors
amid a global must also practice social distancing, standing a
pandemic metre apart and wearing face masks. As of now,
like most tourist hotspots worldwide, Beijing’s
Forbidden City complex, Disneyland and other
museums in the country remain shut.
shutterstock
6 outlook traveller • april 2020 outlook traveller • april 2020 7
● Minecraft
● souvenir
Wild, Wild, West EVER THINE,
• I hoped those coins were chocolate, I wished they were
gold. They really were just plastic, but the experience they brought was
EVER MINE
worth a lot more. On a not-so-recent trip to Nevada, I found myself
spending a night in the sleepy town of Beatty—the gateway to Death I n our wildest fantasies, we rule a world
of our own making; an idea more
appealing when you are stuck at home for
Valley National Park—where they welcomed us with little goody bags.
But the town wasn’t quite so sleepy that night. Dinner was interrupted weeks on end. For some, like the Youtuber
by a bellow as a rogue cowboy stormed in, grabbed my fellow traveller, and Minecraft-player PippenFTS, it is
Maritza, by the wrist and dragged her out the back door. Sheriff Will much closer to reality. The Youtuber,
Davis ran out behind them and the rest of us stumbled after. The
thanks to new software modifications (or
cacophony turned into terrified screams, there were gunshots, bright
flashes, and as I peered out from behind a Jeep, I saw the cowboy hit ‘modding’) like ’Terra 1 to 1’ and ‘Cubic
the ground. Sheriff Davis had saved the day. We erupted into laughter Chunks’, has built a to-scale replica of the
and applause as the Beatty Cowboys—a group of men and women who whole Earth on Minecraft. This technology
spend time recreating the Old West—took a bow. This impromptu has allowed him to use the Minecraft
performance was a part of their daily offerings with floozies, petticoats, blocks to climb Mt Everest, go around
gunfights and all. And don’t worry, they fire blanks. n labanya maitra
the Grand Canyon, the Half Dome in
California and even explore icy Antarctica,
among others. These nifty mods use
data from Google Earth—it’s a neat trick,
especially for our travel-starved souls for
we can now explore the world, literally,
from our couch.
PUNEET K. PALIWAL SHUTTERSTOCK
app We’re All Ears We suggest you pocket this
● india
PROWLING ROWLING
one for your next stint in Sikkim.
Outlook Traveller Getaways’ latest FORM IV
watch The golden age of podcasting has
begun and it’s here to stay. From crime and
comedy, to travel and taxes, you’ll find them
guide on the state is sleek but
packed with plenty of punches.
(See rule 8)
OUTLOOK TRAVELLER
W
Striking a balance between hen Netraprasad 1. Place of Publication : New Delhi
in every corner of the pop culture universe. 2. Periodicity of Publication : Monthly
colourful pictures and text, this Sharma answered the 3. Printer’s Name : Indranil Roy
In this unprecedented time of self-isolation, Whether Citizen of India ? : Yes
guide will take tourists through phone at Pampu village in
what we need is a moment of distraction ( If foreigner, state the country of origin ) : Not Applicable
the many monasteries, mosques, Address : AB-10, Safdarjung Enclave, New Delhi - 110 029
for when we feel too cooped up, or when it North Bengal, he didn’t expect 4. Publisher’s Name : Indranil Roy
temples and gurudwaras in the Whether citizen of India? : Yes
gets tricky to keep those troubling thoughts JK Rowling to be on hold. ( If foreigner, state the country of origin) : Not Applicable
state. Then, to the snow-capped
at bay. Or simply when we wish we could Apparently, she had heard of
Address : AB-10, Safdarjung Enclave, New Delhi - 110 029
peaks that boast of many quaint 5. Editor’s Name : Amit Dixit
be anywhere else, really. And we love Whether Citizen of India : Yes
hamlets and treks, which they can his uncanny ability to track ( If foreigner, state the country of origin) : Not Applicable
Pocket Casts for all of these reasons. It’s got Address : AB-10, Safdarjung Enclave, New Delhi - 110 029
attempt. Be it the most picturesque animals in the leech-infested
everything you need in a podcasting app, 6. Name and addresses of OWNER
glacial lake, or the best spot to sip forests of the east—of finding Individuals who own the Outlook Publishing (India) Private Limited
minus the fluff. After a major update, the app newspaper and the partners of Windsor, 7th Floor, CST Road, Kalina
the refreshing Temi tea, the book elephants, butterflies and shareholders holding more than Santacruz (East), Mumbai 400 098
is now available for free with an additional one per cent of the total capital : SHAREHOLDERS
dishes out one secret after another.
‘premium service’ called ‘Pocket Cast Plus’. rare orchids—and wanted to 1. Varahagiri Investments & Finance Pvt. Ltd.
pocket casts The sections on cuisine, wildlife, handicrafts and festivals are RAHEJAS, Corner of Main Avenue & V.P. Road,
Users can pay $0.99 per month or $10 send him a 272-page draft of Santacruz(West), Mumbai-400 054.
everything that tourists need to know before visiting. Broadly, 2. Manali Investments & Finance Pvt. Ltd.
per year for this service. The paid version her latest work. He was the RAHEJAS, Corner of Main Avenue & V.P. Road,
it is divided geographically and
includes features like access to desktop apps, protagonist, after all. Sharma,
Santacruz(West), Mumbai-400 054.
then further indexed by important 3. Matsyagandha Investments & Finance Pvt. Ltd.
exclusive app icons and themes, and 10 GB of
cloud storage. With a well-curated selection
of shows, resourceful little filters that give
the guide towns and cities. The flip-through
experience is effortless, as readers
can clearly bounce from one well-
a longtime guide at the Buxa
Tiger Reserve, had the air knocked out of him. He then recalled a group
RAHEJAS, Corner of Main Avenue & V.P. Road,
Santacruz(West), Mumbai-400 054.
4. Bloomingdale Investments & Finance Pvt. Ltd.
RAHEJAS, Corner of Main Avenue & V.P. Road,
Santacruz(West), Mumbai-400 054.
you the exact episode you’re searching for, of PhD students who had interviewed him a year earlier. Somehow, 5. Coronet Investments Pvt. Ltd.
defined section to another; do look out for bits like ‘fast facts’, that footage had found its way to Rowling, who took it upon herself
RAHEJAS, Corner of Main Avenue & V.P. Road,
an automatic playback queue, cross-device Santacruz(West), Mumbai-400 054.
‘route planners’ and ‘advice for tourists’ that are peppered
sync options and audio effects like trimming to dig into Sharma’s life and work, and even fly him out to California.
across the pages. A separate section lists down all tourist I, Indranil Roy, hereby declare that the particulars given are true to the best of my knowledge and belief.
silence and sorting, Pocket Cast is focussed The plot’s a secret, but we suppose it’s an adventure novel. We’re
offices, organisations, hotels and travel agents. The adorable
on enhancing your listening experience at more keen to see how a literary giant portrays India’s stunning Dated : March 3, 2020 sd/-
red panda bookmark is a fun addition and so is the foldable map, Indranil Roy
every turn. The app is available on all major
which is a bucket load of information in itself. ecosystems—and its difficulties—to a global audience. There’s no PUBLISHER
platforms including iOS and Android.
n anshika nagar release date in sight, but our faith in six degrees of separation has
n roshni subramanian
been freshly renewed.
8 outlook traveller • APRIL 2020 outlook traveller • april 2020 9
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#socialdistancing
#stayuprooted
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10 outlook traveller • april 2020 outlook traveller • april 2020 11
interview jose dominic
tourism. If we go back further—1994 was the year of the Indian
plague or Surat plague, when foreign travel came to a complete
halt. That is the closest comparison I can make to what is
happening now. We had commisioned Coconut Lagoon in 1993
and a year after India had the plague. However, at that time
something good did happen afterwards. Until then, Indians
mainly travelled to hill stations. After the plague the Gujaratis
discovered the backwaters and other Indians followed.
Domestic tourism really took off.
But, this time it goes beyond what we saw during the 1994
plague. I have to reach for stories that I heard of the 1918
Spanish Flu, plus all the plagues that took place in all the
centuries before that. It took generations to recover. This
pandemic and impact can only be compared to those events.
n Kerala was ground zero in India with the first cases showing up
there. What has the response and impact been like in Kerala?
Kerala went on a war footing when the first few students
came back from China and tested positive. All our hotels were
running to full capacity. In fact, tourism in Kerala had bounced
Lockdowns, quarantines, back after the big flood of 2018 and the floods of 2019. We saw
a growth of 24%. CGH Earth too had its best October, best
cancelled flights, shuttered November, best December and best January numbers in our
hotels—this is the new history. And then the virus struck.
normal inside the Covid-19 The Government ordered all foreigners had to be
quarantined. They had made two categories of foreign
pandemic. tourism has taken
travellers—one who were to be quarantined for 14 days and
a direct hit. Jose Dominic, another for 28. They had to be in their rooms, food would be
Director and Co-founder of left outside their door, etc. We had to tell our guests they had
the CGH Earth group of to follow the quarantine rules or leave. Everyone opted to
return. This was before the lockdown and other countries were
hotels, spoke to Radhika just seeing the infections rise. So tour operators went wild as
P. Nair about the impact on people elsewhere had not woken up to the risk. On March 15,
tourism and what the we shut. Everyone was upset at that time. This was not being
done anywhere else in India. In hindsight, I wonder if we
future holds would have lower numbers (of Covid-19 infections) if we had
shut the entire country then.
We were able to take this decision as we were able to
prepare our people. There was the instance of the British
God’s Own
n How is your lockdown going? traveller who tested positive in Munnar and then tried to
We are all confined at home. We have stopped newspapers even. leave the country and was quarantined after his travel group
But technology is of great help. We are able to do meetings online was deboarded from the plane. That group had stayed at our
through Zoom and its almost as real as being in the same room. I Kochi property, Casino Hotel, before leaving for Munnar. So
Quarantine
wish we were going through this home isolation at our farm—it all employees of Casino were under quarantine immediately.
would have been more pleasant, but the internet is not as good. I We shut the hotel and quarantined the staff in the hotel rooms
am learning a lot of new technology! for two weeks. I had seen the interviews of Dr Ramanan
Lakshminarayan, Director of the Center for Disease Dynamics,
n You have seen many highs and lows over the years; is there Economics & Policy, where he said our window of opportunity
any precedent for what we are facing with Covid-19? to stop the crisis in India was closing. We knew we had to take
What has happened is going to change everything. In Kerala, immediate action.
we have dealt with our share of troubles in recent years—Nipah Our first and foremost responsibility is not to the customer;
and the floods of the last two years. Earlier we faced the issues it is to our staff. We shut the hotels not just in Kerala but also in
caused by the Mumbai attacks of 2008 and the 9/11 attacks and other states much before the state governments there started
the Parliament attack in 2001. All these led to a severe crisis for calling for closure. We told all the employees to go home,
12 outlook traveller • april 2020 outlook traveller • april 2020 13
jose dominic
maintain social distancing and isolation as per government
rules. I am sure even the staff thought we were overreacting.
n It does not look like the virus or the crisis will go away soon.
What will the impact will be?
There are two pandemics unfolding simultaneously. One
is the actual virus-caused health crisis, the other is the
economic pandemic. Right now, it looks worrisome. The 21-
day lockdown will hopefully bring down cases and flatten the
curve and there won’t be spikes. That’s the best-case scenario.
What is coming through is that this is going to be a long haul.
I read an article that said there are three possible outcomes—
the first is that the contagion will go away as quickly as it came;
the second is that it will stick around and cause high impact but
if we take enough measures it will weaken in six months; and
the third is the unthinkable scenario (of mass deaths and long-
term impact). The second scenario seems to be the likely one.
CGH Earth’s turnover was very healthy. But now that
everything is shut, it will be impacted heavily. While there
is no income coming in, the costs continue to mount. We are
tightening our belts. We are paying all salaries till we shut
operations. The ones on the lower end will get the full salaries,
the senior staff will get a certain percentage. Next month
onwards we will pay something to ensure employees are able to
put food on the table, but we will have to start rationing as we do
not know how long this shutdown will last. We have 1,500 staff
and until April we can do something; from May we don’t know
what to do. I hope the Government announces something to
help the industry and ensure the country does not go bankrupt.
n What are you hoping from the Government?
I am making a comparison with the Kerala floods—the first
stage was rescue, then relief for those rescued and, finally,
rebuilding. We are in the equivalent stage of rescue and
that’s all the Government should focus on right now. Stop the
contagion, doesn’t matter what the impact on the economy is.
If this spreads then the economy is going to be dead. The next
stage is to support the weakest and put food on their table.
Then announce emergency meaures for enterprises. Don’t
SHUTTERSTOCK
smash the enterprises to smithereens. Protect the industry, so
enterprises can recover quickly. For example, the annual bar a race are hoping to get one more chance and our old problems been brought to their knees. In fact, the strength is in the small
licenses in Kerala expire on March 31. Each bar in Kerala has seem trivial be they at the family level or national. People will people. The small homestays and farms will be resilient.
to pay a fee of Rs 30 lakh each year. The Government can waive Our first and foremost responsibility also rethink what development means. Be as frugal as possible, reduce lifestyle, distribute
this and renew the license of all those who had it in FY 2019-20. is not to the customer; it is to our subsistence allowance to your staff for as long as you can.
There is going to be a resource crunch, especially in Kerala. n Many small travel companies are worried about what the Don’t wait for the Government. Do what you can to help and to
We have offered our hotels for quarantine.
staff and people. We shut the future holds. Any words of advice? ensure we overcome this.
hotels not just in Kerala but also in Right now, protect and preserve. Be in the here and now. This crisis is going to change everything, all that we took for
n What long-term learnings can we glean from this experience? other states much before the state Protect yourself, your family and your community. For the first granted. It will bring families together—extrapolate this to the
I am a Catholic and for us not going to Church every Sunday is a time ever we sighed with relief when the last customer left our industry. Tourism will take a long, long time to recover. After
sin. Similarly, for other religions there are festivals and prayers
governments there started calling hotel. How unthinkable is that! We were relieved because we the floods of 2018, we sprung back. But this is different. The
that are considered very important. But now everything is shut. for closure. are not responsible for their safety anymore or worried about industry has been smashed down and all that I can say is keep
Mass is now on TV! So, one message that comes to my mind is whether our communities’ safety will be compromised. yourselves alive, put food on the table. This virus has given us
—Jose Dominic, CGH Earth Group
that we should not allow God to hold human life and harmony The enormity of the monster is such that all of us are very a lot of time to use wisely. Keep your body and mind fit to fight
to ransom. We have been put in our place by Nature. Now, we as small in front of it. The biggest hotel chains in the world have another day. We should not give up hope.
14 outlook traveller • april 2020 outlook traveller • april 2020 15
Prannay Pathak
and smooth, he has his orchestra bring a tableau of the sights of Dharamkot Clockwise from above: a bedroom with a stellar
hotels
check out 16 hyatt regency dharamshala resort out a retinue of dishes that climaxes in the forest. The property blends away nicely view; Thym serves farm-fresh food; interactive
buffets and global cuisines are on offer at the
18 srinivas by niraamaya private residences, jaipur tantalisingly delectable sikarni, topped into the raw landscape courtesy the stone restaurant; the perfect nook for a cup of tea;
20 grand mercure gandhinagar gift city 21 updates janu with saffron and pistachios. Dinner is cladding on the exterior. and a play area in the lap of nature
a drama piece: the Himachali dham, The uber-classy 2082 (after Dharamkot’s
redolent with the local scents and flavours, altitude) comes up with three cocktails instead. And just like that, it is arranged.
[ check out ] is presented in a crescent dish, the curated for my palate. The first is called There are few things that this driven
inhabitants of which are shining with glee Mountain Dawn: a fruity, fizzy tryst with bunch will say no to, and I can’t think of
Shall we, to the Shala? at having been understood so well, finally.
Chef Biswas waxes philosophical about
the farm-to-table thought behind the food
butterfly pea flowers fortified with Indian
sparkling wine. Valley of Flowers is the
second stop—a concoction of local floral
any. By morning, they seem to know my
preferences more than I do, and promptly
pack fruits and fruit juice for the way.
The crisp air of deodar-covered hills seamlessly ties nature and luxury at the Hyatt Regency here. The herb garden for the kitchen is specials, jasmine, lavender and geranium How paternal.
Dharamshala Resort, finds Prannay Pathak a baby still learning to walk, but coming bolstered with tuberose-wax-rested vodka
along nicely nevertheless. The locally (I wish they’d go easy on the floral perfume The information
I
’m in the middle of a huddle of adornment, dummy. But you know what’s balcony room. The mesh door allows grown tomatoes release their juices with a bit). I reserve the finale for dinner: a LOCATION Village Dharamkot,
conifers, benevolent giants standing not? The 80 accommodation options, the crisp mountain air to mingle with a spurt in your mouth, and the grilled sole gritty little coming together of Indian Dharamshala, Himachal Pradesh. Approx.
50 mins/25 km from Kangra airport
guard over a gleaming, 17-foot including 41 twin-bed rooms, 4 private the warm snugness inside, reassuring from the Beas can really change a non- whisky and local apricots, shaken (not
ACCOMMODATION 76 guest rooms
multifaceted monolith. Entranced, I villas, 3 suites, 17 club rooms and 15 rooms my stiff body that had dropped on the fish-eater (Aside: The banoffee can be stirred) with freshly pressed ginger and including 10 regency club rooms and 3
float through the security entrance, into with balconies. Families on holiday plush chaise longue. My eyes remain done a little less sweet, though). local turmeric juice, and their signature suites. The property also features 4 private
the luxurious mountain abode called can choose from the suites or the lavish glued to the top of the blue mountain Hyatt Dharamshala really does get forest honey infused with black pepper residences
Hyatt Regency Dharamshala Resort, private residences. Those on a spiritual kilometres away, smoking the mist like a into the whole vibe of the place: the and sandalwood. It is aptly named the TARIFF Starting from `15,300 per night.
strategically placed in a secret pocket retreat will find peace in Zendo, the formidable old guard. ubiquitous Buddhist infinity knot motif is (Dharam)Shala Sour. Balcony (from `16,800), private garden
club access (from `19,300), balcony club
of Dharamkot’s forested environs that meditation facility, the upper quarters The rain has left the morning chilly, but their answer to the hypnotic, hexagonal At dinner, the staff informs me that our access (from `20,300), regency suite grove
resonates with bird calls. of which have been offered to local the immunity booster (a concoction of patterned carpet in Stanley Kubrick’s The morning hike to Bhagsu Nag and guided view (from `30,300), regency suite balcony
In the foyer, as my welcome drink is monks who dwelt here before. Shanti, lemon, ginger and Kangra wild honey) Shining. Outside, one gawks, awestruck, tour to Kangra Fort that was originally (from `32,300), 2-bedroom residence (from
`50,000), and 5-bedroom residence (from
brought to me, I wish greedily that the their spa facility, makes it the perfect keeps me from catching a cold. Lunch is again, like Kubrick’s prehistoric apes of in our itinerary is in jeopardy. I fling the `1,65,300)
pine cone partnering the pretty cup is mountain relaxation idyll. a Tibetan opera conducted piecemeal by 2001: A Space Odyssey, at the 17-foot-long suggestion back at them that we go to CONTACT +91-189-2221234; hyatt.com
for keeps. I quickly tell myself: it’s an I am escorted up to the king-with-a- the head chef Sandeep Biswas. Articulate steel monolith whose many faces, present Andretta and the Palampur tea estate
16 outlook traveller • april 2020 outlook traveller • april 2020 17
PHOTOgraphS BY Nayanika Mukherjee
[ check out ] assume the food will be overwhelmingly sunset, and it’s another folly—dinner Left to right, from facing page: the sunny terrace;
showy. But it’s simple, farm-to-table on the roof, in what must be single-digit walking past the courtyard; dinner at Kachnaar
AMAZING GRACE
Ghar; one of many ornate, living touches; and a
fare. I slather butter onto fluffy parathas, temperatures and strong wind. We did
corner of my suite
sip fresh-pressed juice, and demolish drinks earlier (and some Bournvita,
a veggie omelette and croissants. The I have no regrets) but it doesn’t seem We then head for the warm living room,
When it comes to effortless indulgence, Nayanika Mukherjee finds Srinivas by Niraamaya butter, we’re told, comes from a cow to help much until the staff lights up ready to touch, see, photograph and draw
Private Residences to be Jaipur’s prized pony a few yards away, while the fruits and two bonfires on either side of our table. this sensory overload of a hall. If one
veggies are from the garden. The lawn, Kebabs, papad ki sabzi, ker sangri and were to take a top-down picture while
O
On the outskirts of the city, throne. But it’s not rusty memorabilia. Each of the seven suites at Srinivas with a view of Karanvijay Singh’s prized lamb are quickly polished off, but I standing near the couch, you’d see ten
lies a dusty service road. Not Every hall, staircase and suite has a cold reflects the personal likings and horses (and a few donkeys, he’s an animal long for the warmth of Kachnaar Ghar, different, lavish textures in one frame.
much lines the way, except quietness, as if longing for its rightful idiosyncrasies of a member of the royal lover), is a dreamy expanse for afternoon the indoor restaurant which has its Understated isn’t a concern here, nor
for thorny shrubs, signs inhabitants. I entertain the thought family. Linens and books are handpicked tea, or a sleek sundowner. Local painters own fireplace. The chef, adept at both in the dining hall: chandeliered, with
pointing to the Kukas Dam, and, oddly, of a vengeful spirit visiting us at night, in one room, while another has a turtle- paint murals on a wall, much like the Marwari specialities and European crystal stemware, daffodils and silky
a satsang bhavan. But as you drive on, an peering down from the jaali above the shaped clock, a foldout mirror and a tin ones inside Amer Fort, as a restoration classics, whips up a mean fish with covers. We take one seat on each side
oasis appears, hidden by lush swathes central courtyard. Perhaps it’d find full of collectables. The former maharani’s expert watches on. lemon sauce and ratatouille. The pearl and grumble about weary road trips,
of bougainvillaea. In the middle, a black solace in the fact that I would be sleeping suite is one of the largest, showcasing her Most of our time at Srinivas is spent millet raab, warming but unpleasantly landlords and the government. Little did
gate, with a golden sun, daydreaming. in the Rathores’ ‘Mehmaan’ suite. grandkids’ polo trophies (a sweet reveal lounging on the ground floor, so we are astringent, is an acquired taste. we know that it’d be one of the last, most
We are at Srinivas, an exquisite private Designed in fuchsia and gold, my into the stoic), while the king’s retreat is reminded that there’s a terrace upstairs. Horseback riding isn’t possible during indulgent holidays we’d see for a while.
residence which has been lent out by weekend abode comes with an ensuite themed entirely on hunting and Africa. Mirrored mosaics line our path to the our stay, so we march up to the Persians
Maharaja Karan Vijay Singh of Jodhpur. bathroom, gilded frames bearing former All of Srinivas’ four-poster beds are fitted minimal, red sandstone area, done up and mustangs in the stables, explore subtle The information
Singh, a well-known hotelier and polo kings and swanky dogs, and a sigh- with electric blankets, allowing the most with canopied charpais and wrought- corners (new things keep popping up!) LOCATION Srinivas by Niraamaya Private
player, is part of the city’s Rathore inducing view of the bougainvillaeas snug wintertime sleep you can have in iron furniture. We go up at 7am, so and chat up the courteous waitstaff. Some Residences, Kukas, Amer, Jaipur. 1hr/28km
from Jaipur International Airport
dynasty, and also runs the Ranbanka outside. I adore the room’s small the desert. naturally, it’s yoga time. The Rathores’ are longtime Amer locals and have been
ACCOMMODATION 7 suites
Palace Hotel, some 350 kilometres away. touches—polo boots, upright against a We are served breakfast on manicured personal instructor takes us through the with the family for years, so do poke their
But Srinivas is a notch above. We get the table; fresh rosewater and multani mitti lawns outside, the biting cold broken up surya namaskar, and a few pretzel-like brain for an insider’s look into the city. We TARIFF From `14,500 for doubles plus
breakfast. Taxes extra
feeling the moment we step in—priceless for some gentle cleansing; and chocolates by mynahs and the smell of chai. Given positions. I try the sarvanga asana with wander into Srinivas’ study, and spot Game
CONTACT +91-7230027333;
antiques inhabit the living room, and and a handwritten note, left on my that the experience is meant to show some success, until my rickety back of Thrones in the royal library. My friend niraamaya.com
beside the snooker table, waits a silver pillow at night. royal life away from the public eye, I advises to rein in the ambition. Cut to wonders what season they’re on.
18 outlook traveller • april 2020 outlook traveller • april 2020 19PHOTOgraphS BY Puneet K. Paliwal
[ check out ] From left to right: plush interiors of the
classic suite; deep-fried bhajiyas with an
The Art In Smart
assortment of chutneys and Gujarati
kadhi; and Sangam, a multi-cuisine
restaurant at the property
[ fresh sheet ]
A world of comfort steeped in ancient traditions, Grand Mercure Gandhinagar GIFT City Soul Searching
is a cultural touchstone, finds Puneet K. Paliwal
I
A
f you’ve ever stepped foot in any of new (and more affordable, we hear) will embody this philosophy. It promises
city where Gandhi’s legacy the city’s first international hospitality legacy, the speciality restaurant Samaroh the Aman properties, it’s abundantly sister concern, stands for everything the same commitment to luxury and
continues to linger, a state project, and my humble abode during my encapsulates the flavours of the region. clear that they strive to maintain not that facilitates togetherness, a greater world-class service upheld by Aman,
where the strokes of cultural two-day visit there, Grand Mercure. It seemed as though ‘eat breakfast like just a connection, but absolute harmony purpose and inner contentment. It claims by introducing a serviced residence
exuberance capture the Helmed by renowned names like a king’ was coined here, owing to the with their surroundings. Peace and to create an environment where the concept. Truth be told, we could all
curiosities of many. Set Brigade and Accor, the property left no sheer variety of the spread laid out in tranquillity in the age of the hustle balance between mind and heart, work use some social connections when the
on the banks of the Sabarmati River, tables unturned to ensure quality in all front of me; no less than a royal feast. and the grind are what Aman brings and play, is nurtured. Janu is introducing current situation is over with, and where
Gandhinagar is a land of contradictions. aspects. With 151 well-equipped guest After gorging on the finest of dhoklas to the table, and soon, it will also bring three properties in 2022—Montenegro, better than the luxurious communal
Away from the bustle of Ahmedabad, this rooms and suites, the plush nine-storeyed and bhajiyas, a quick nap seemed like the in a connection of the souls. Janu, the Tokyo and Al Ula in Saudi Arabia—which spaces of Janu, the soul. See janu.com
capital city is amongst the most well- hotel caters to the needs of seasoned natural progression, but a day-long shoot
planned ones that the country has to travellers. The snug rooms were adorned awaited. So, with my appetite leading the
offer. And I had the fortune to witness its with traditional intricate motifs, offering way, I was back to the hustle, all geared [ The Report ] March—done in the summer—have
splendour first-hand. a glimpse into the captivating art of block up to savour the sumptuous Gujarati dwindled. With deteriorating numbers
On a not-so-recent trip to Gujarat, I
found myself in the heart of GIFT City
printing. With a jam-packed itinerary in
store for me, I barely had the time to take
thali for dinner, before heading back
home the following morning.
Standing since February, the report predicts that
the latter half of 2020 will be the worst
Gandhinagar—an urban settlement
waiting to be unravelled. Gujarat
a tour of the property, but as an admirer of
home-grown interiors, I was in awe of the The information
Strong hit. The key to reviving such a market
(after the virus is contained, of course)
International Finance Tec-City is an
ambitious township project launched
with the aim of connecting the state’s
fine incorporation of local touchpoints in
all its services.
Designed to suit business needs,
LOCATION Grand Mercure Gandhinagar GIFT
City, Gujarat International Finance Tec-City,
Gandhinagar, Gujarat. A 30-minute drive from
T he impact of the novel coronavirus
on India’s hospitality sector is
nothing short of severe. HVS India and
would be an increase in domestic travel.
Airlines and hotels, with aid from the
government, will have to come up with
business capital—Ahmedabad—to the Grand Mercure boasts of six meeting Sardar Vallabhbhai Patel International Airport, South Asia, a global consulting firm SHUTTERSTOCK quick and efficient strategies to deliver
Ahmedabad, the nearest airport.
political capital, Gandhinagar. Labelled rooms, ideal for conferences and training for hospitality, has released a report, imposition of Section 144, suspension of quality to their returning customers.
ACCOMMODATION 151 rooms
as the first operational smart city, it programmes. And with leisure facilities including suites
COVID-19: Impact on the Indian Hotels visas and global advisories against travel. HVS proposes two steps: use this chasm
has been planned with state-of-the- like a fitness centre, an infinity pool and Sector, that takes account of how the In this scenario, the report alludes, there to prepare for the upcoming demand by
TARIFF From `4,499 (superior room); `5,999
art connectivity, infrastructure and a yoga pavilion, the hotel is committed (deluxe room); `7,499 (junior suite); `8,499
virus has affected the travel and tourism is limited scope for quick revival, but for focusing on marketing and upgradation;
transportation access, all integrated to catering to the city’s ever-growing (classic suite); `10,499 (executive suite) industry, and what can be done to restore a slow and steady growth instead. There and, to plan out the reopening
into the design itself. But more than the tourism and business activities. CONTACT +91-7961801300; accor.com it. Currently, inbound tourism has come is little chance of an influx of foreign keeping long-term benefits and safety
infrastructure, what left me amazed was Keeping up with rich Gujarati culinary to a halt with India under lockdown, the tourists, and most bookings for October- compliances in mind.
20 outlook traveller • april 2020 outlook traveller • april 2020 21You can also read
