Hands On! Artisan Food & Beverage Producers - Les Dames d'Escoffier ...

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Hands On! Artisan Food & Beverage Producers - Les Dames d'Escoffier ...
SPRING                  2021

            Hands On! Artisan Food & Beverage Producers

Cla ire Meneely | Jova n Sa ge | Su zi Shef f ield | Veronic a Ca stro | Judy Hol lis-Jone s | Wendy Rose
Debora h O'Kel ly | Debora h Stone | Erin Oliva ri | R hond a K ave | Pa m Powel l | Debbie Vernon
Hands On! Artisan Food & Beverage Producers - Les Dames d'Escoffier ...
Cordia Harrington (Nashville)
     speaks about "Leadership in
     Action" (see page 12).
     Aubrey Alvarez (in center)
     and others glean apples for
     her Des Moines Chapter's
     fundraiser, “Wine, Pie &
     Hope: A Pandemic Pivot to
     Pie Pays Off.” (see page 15).

                                          FROM THE EDITOR
                                          Hands ON!
                 SPRING 2021                My husband always says that the best gifts are the ones made
                                          by hand with loving care. I’m willing to bet that you have some
                                          keepsakes from your children or grandchildren that were made
                                          with their little chubby hands.
    IN THIS ISSUE                         Possibly these are not without
                                          flaws, which makes them all the
                                          more personal.
    F E AT UR ES                            These same little darlings
                                          might have wandered into some
      4Hands On! Artisan Food &           of your own craft projects or
                                          decorated birthday cakes and
    		 Beverage Producers                 have been told, “Hands OFF!”
                                            In the business food world,
    13      LDEI Conference San Antonio   however, the words to describe
                                          artisan food and beverage pro-
    18 LDEI International Board           ducers would be “Hands ON!”
                                          Mass produced sleeves of but-
    		 Meeting Goes Virtual               tery crackers, jars of processed
    21      Giving Days
                                          cheese, bottles of tomato juice,
                                          or months-old boxes of choco-
                                          late chip cookies-to name a
    D E PA RTMEN T S                      few-would never be described
                                          as artisan food products.
    12      Leadership in Action
                                            The dozen Dames featured
                                          on pages 4-11 are definitely
                                          hands-on artisans who not only CiCi’s   grandaughter Ellie Williamson
    14      Fundraising                   created their own businesses
                                                                            doing ceramics in 2009.

                                          but also have a hand in the
    20      Green Tables                  products they turn out.
                                            Thanks go to the dozen Dames who told these artisans’ stories.
    22      Trends                        Many other Dames also contributed to this issue, especially
                                          those who shared their virtual chapter fundraisers, programs,
    24      Chapter Programs              opinions, and reports. Dottie Koteski (Philadelphia), our
                                          Member Milestone editor, and Nichole Bendele (San Antonio),
    38      Member Milestones             our Chapter Program editor, helped by compiling all the photos
                                          and writeups that come in via the platforms (see submission
    30      Global Culinary Postcard
                                          guidelines on page 31).
                                            I am enjoying working with our LDEI 2nd Vice President Erin

    31      The Brock Circle
                                          Byers Murray (Nashville) who was the grand prize winner of
                                          the 2015 LDEI M.F.K. Fisher Award for Excellence in Culinary
                                          Writing. At the time, she wasn’t a Dame, but subsequently, she
                                          was invited to join the Nashville Chapter and became its presi-
                                          dent. Way to go, Erin! I’d call that “Hands on,” too.
                                                                 —CiCi Williamson, Editor, Spring Quarterly

    © Les Dames d’ Escoffier, 2021.

2                                                                Les Dames d’Escoffier International
Hands On! Artisan Food & Beverage Producers - Les Dames d'Escoffier ...
PRESIDENT'S MESSAGE                                                                                           2021 LDEI BOARD
                                                                                                              OF DIRECTORS
Springing Forward!                                                                                            The mission of the LDEI Board is to
                                                                                                              foster the growth and success of
                                                                                                              the organization by supporting the
Happy Spring, dear Dames.                                                                                     development of new and existing
                                                                                                              chapters and by implementing program
  As spring unfolds and the pandemic offers signs                                                             initiatives. It provides leadership,
of improvement with vaccines and opening of                                                                   guidance, education, connectivity, and
businesses, there is again a feeling of hope and                                                              effective communication among LDEI
positivity. While our industries have been af-                                                                members.
fected very negatively, I am constantly impressed                                                             President
with the ingenuity of our Dames to pivot and                                                                  JUDITH HOLLIS-JONES
survive, and some even flourish with new ideas.                                                               Kentucky Chapter
We are a resilient bunch!                                                                                     Hollis Jones and Associates
                                                                                                              judy@hollisjones.com
  LDEI has been very busy this winter and                                                                     (502)-403-9689
early spring. Table Talks with Les Dames has                                                                  First Vice President
been such a joy to me in March as winter                                                                      DEBORAH MINTCHEFF
winds down. The interesting events have made                                                                  New York Chapter
the month pass in a flash. I hope you have all                                                                PEN&INK
                                                                                                              dsmintcheff@gmail.com
participated in a few. Special thanks to all the                                                              (917) 923-6348
Dames that presented, prepared, and partici-
                                                                                                              Second Vice President
pated. Great sessions, and a great representation                                                             ERIN BYERS MURRAY
of our chapters.                                       To offer as much support as possible to our            Nashville Chapter
  Table Talks with Les Dames has attracted par-      Dame business owners, we were able to offer a            The Local Palate
ticipants that have never been to a LDEI event                                                                murray.erinb@gmail.com
                                                     webinar on the Earned Retention Tax Credit               (617) 571-8173
before. This is a great boost for our brand image.   this spring, thanks to the San Antonio Chapter’s         Third Vice President
In addition, the 2020-2023 Strategic Plan called     generous offer of knowledge and expertise. The           LIZ BARRETT, CSW
for more above-chapter participation. Viola! We      event shared what the credit is, who qualifies,          Chicago Chapter
have done a lot of that with Zoom. I don’t know      and how to take advantage of it. A big thanks            Beverage, Food, Lifestyle PR &
about your feelings, but I feel so much more         to Leslie Komet Ausburn and Allison Miller,              Communications
                                                                                                              lizbchicago@gmail.com
connected to LDEI members in general. I like         CPA, for bringing this informative session to our        (312) 446-6945
the feeling—it’s motivational.                       Dames and their businesses.                              Secretary
  There’s good news arising for Legacy Award           An educational offering that is on point with          STEPHANIE JAEGER
winners who could not complete their experi-         today’s world is coming up in May through                British Columbia Chapter
ence in 2020. They will get to experience their      September. With Seattle Colleges and their               PearTree Restaurant
award in summer 2021. Look for news from                                                                      ssjaeger@shaw.ca
                                                     Diversity, Equity, and Inclusion leader, Christina       (604) 299-2772
their experiences at Conference in October.          Chang, LDEI will offer an in-depth educational
                                                                                                              Treasurer
  The Woman of Purpose is a new award for            experience “Learning to Build a Diverse and In-          BARB PIRES
LDEI. The sponsorship by Yeti makes this award       clusive Culture.” See the back cover of this issue       Atlanta Chapter
possible and will heighten the public awareness      for more detail. This current, on-target training        Henri’s Bakery & Deli
of the award and its winner. I can’t wait to meet    is useful for your business, your community,             piresb@bellsouth.net
the woman who achieves this! The plan is to host                                                              (404) 432-5541
                                                     your personal life, and your LDEI chapter. An
the Woman of Purpose and the Grand Dame                                                                       Chapter Board Liaisons
                                                     offering like this is usually only offered by large
Award on alternating years. Both will be recog-                                                               KATHY SHEARER
                                                     institutions or corporations. LDEI is offering           San Antonio Chapter
nized at Conference this October.                    it at a very small fee to the first 200 registrants      Shearer Publishing
  Education has been on my mind all year. I have     (first come, first served). If the class fills, we can   shearer@shearerpub.com
learned so much from the Table Talks with Les        contract to repeat at later dates.                       (830) 997-6529
Dames events, but I am also glad that LDEI             All current indications are that we can be             INGRID GANGESTAD
has been able to offer more. The Grant Writing       together in San Antonio for 2021 LDEI Annual             Minnesota Chapter
                                                                                                              St. Croix Culinary Consulting, LLC
webinar in January was definitely eye-opening        Conference. What an amazing experience that              igangestad@comcast.net
to opportunities for funding as well as phi-         will be! Looking forward to a chat with each of          (651) 274-4033
lanthropy for our chapters and for individual        you.                                                     BONNIE TANDY LEBLANG
Dames’community projects. Several chapters                                                                    New York Chapter
have begun work on grants, and a couple have                                                                  Bite of the Best
                                                     Judy                                                     bonnie@bonnietandyleblang.com
already achieved success. The Grant Task Force
                                                     Judith Hollis Jones                                      (203) 887-5455
is continuing Zoom meetings for support. Please
                                                     President, Les Dames d’Escoffier International           Immediate Past President
avail yourself of this opportunity to gain funding
                                                                                                              BEV SHAFFER
to grow philanthropy and scholarships.                                                                        Cleveland/Northeast Ohio Chapter
                                                                                                              Owner/COOK.WRITE.TRAVEL.REPEAT.
                                                                                                              bev.foodwithattitude@gmail.com
                                                                                                              (330) 441-2706
                                                                                                              Executive Director
                                                                                                              GREG JEWELL
                                                                                                              President, AEC Management Resources
                                                                                                              Louisville, KY 40204
                                                                                                              info@ldei.org
                                                                                                              (502) 456-1851 x1
S P R I N G Q U A RT E R LY 2 021                                                                                                                  3
Hands On! Artisan Food & Beverage Producers - Les Dames d'Escoffier ...
Artisanal food encompasses such products as breads, cheeses, preserves, cured meats, beverages, oils, spice
                  mixtures, and vinegars that are made by skilled craftworkers, known as food artisans. In this feature, a dozen
                   Dames wrote about a dozen artisans from a dozen different chapters. You can see many more Dames listed
                  under the profession “Artisan food beverage producer” in the online or printed directory. Enjoy reading how
                                     these Dames succeeded in creating their products.-CiCi Williamson

                         Hands On!   Artisan Food & Beverage Producers

Wendy Rose,
Sparkling Wine Diva
By Renee Blackstone (British
Columbia)

Wendy Rose          Bella Wines
Naramata, British Columbia
www.bellawines.ca/

  It’s been love at first sparkle in more ways
than one for Wendy Rose, Owner, Bella
Wines—British Columbia’s only winery
exclusively dedicated to sparkling wine.
  With roots in the ‘70s California food and      culinary school classes. She then decided to       to be pioneers of the natural wine movement
wine country, it’s no surprise Wendy found        learn all she could about the wine business,       but through a deeper understanding of our
her own passion in producing unique spar-         beginning with working as a cellar hand for        process, and the elimination of so many
kling wines in Canada’s premiere wine region,     various wineries.                                  things, we evolved just at a time when the
the Okanagan in British Columbia.                   It wasn’t until she met Jay, however, that       market was also looking for more natural
  Together with her husband, Chef and             she began to see more clearly where else life      products, without unnecessary additives.”
Winemaker Jay Drysdale, Wendy launched            could take her.                                     As well, as an artisanal business, “we do
Bella Sparkling Wines in 2011, one of only          On one of their early dates, Jay confessed his   everything by hand,” Wendy explained. “We
about a dozen in the huge North American          dream was to start a boutique sparkling-wine       hand riddle our wines, we hand disgorge our
wine market.                                      house, preferably in British Columbia.             ancestrales, and we hand label each bottle (in-
  Wendy developed her culinary chops from           “It was Kismet!” Wendy says, adding that         cluding the neck tag).We’re a team of three:
an early age. Her Mom was a chef who              he’s been “blessed to make great wine,” while      myself, my husband, and an assistant, and
immersed herself in the California Cuisine        she’s “blessed to navigate the paperwork.”         we do everything from weed the vineyard,
pioneered by Grande Dame Alice Waters.              As with any small business, there are a          through to working our farm tours and selling
Her dad, meanwhile, was a wine lover and          number of challenges unique to their endeav-       our products.”
connoisseur who—for 30 years—would                our. Foremost is “staying relevant in an ever       Joining Les Dames was her way of giving
import 150 cases of Alain Vessele French          changing market,” Wendy says. “We are hyper-       back, Wendy said. “Education is hugely im-
Champagne from Bouzy, France as the fam-          focussed. We only make sparkling wine.”            portant to me and the BC Chapter Scholarship
ily’s house wine. “My parents entertained A         Today, Bella produces only 3,000 cases of        Program is a wonderful way to support women
LOT!” Wendy explains.                             20 different bubbles a year in two styles—         in our industry to further their skill sets.”
  It fueled a life-long love of sparkling wine,   traditional method and ancestrale method—
                                                  using single vineyard crops of two grapes:         Renee Blackstone is Publishing
but it wasn’t the road Wendy chose to follow                                                         Coordinator, Ecolechocolat.com,
initially. Her first career was in finance and    gamay and chardonnay.
                                                                                                     and a freelance editor/writer
technology, but food and wine began exerting        Some of their wines only have one ingredi-
their pull when she began taking a number of      ent: grapes. Wendy said. “We never set out

4                                                                                                       Les Dames d’Escoffier International
Hands On! Artisan Food & Beverage Producers - Les Dames d'Escoffier ...
Veronica Castro: Coffee
Grower and Roaster
By Sabrina A. Falquier Montgrain,
MD (Mexico and San Diego)
Veronica Castro            Diamansol Coffee
Col. Campestre Churubusco, Mexico
www.cafediamansol.com

  What a pleasure to deep-dive into the world
                                                    Oaxaca. They consciously seek out working          have taken a pause, yet will resume when the
of Mexico LDEI chapter member Veronica
                                                    with women within these small communities.         pandemic allows.
Castro and her coffee brand - Diamansol
                                                    This is such perfection - full circle of empow-     Café Diamansol specializes in selecting
Coffee.
                                                    ering each other and one another’s work and        high-mountain coffees from different farms
  As I write this, I sip on her delicious Sonrisa
                                                    creating opportunities for improved quality of     in Mexico, which are then classified in a
Del Mar (“Smile of the Sea”) blend. I picture
                                                    life. Also, Veronica feels strongly that working   meticulous way. Then, immediately after the
her sitting across the table from me with her
                                                    with women is an indispensable part of the         harvest, the true miracle takes place during
kind, welcoming smile and approachable
                                                    process to obtaining a quality product.            roasting “when the bean dances, gyrates, and
ways. It doesn’t hurt that this image took
                                                      As Veronica’s passion flourished within the      exhales its variety of properties.”
place at Pujol Restaurant in Mexico City dur-
                                                    coffee world, she continued her search for          I encourage you to explore her website www.
ing Flavors of Mexico in the spring of 2020.
                                                    further knowledge of the beautiful nuances         cafediamansol.com as the description of each
The last gorgeous hurrah for many of us
                                                    of the coffee making process: Learning about       variety is sublime and true to its final out-
before our lives took a global halt.
                                                    harvests, altitude, temperature, humidity, and     come. She carries varieties with names such
  Like many of us in LDEI, Veronica’s swerve
                                                    the country of Mexico, with its varied terroir,    as Sonrisa de Luna (“Smile of the Moon”) and
in her career and life came forward from a
                                                    has many learning opportunities. Then comes        Sonrisa Parisiana (“Parisian Smile”).
lifelong side passion. Veronica had been in the
                                                    the post production components of roasts,           I’ve never been so happy to know the face
hospitality industry with a full-throttle love
                                                    blends and brew. Each one of those catego-         behind my coffee. Thank you, Veronica, for
for coffee. Seeing and conversing with a friend
                                                    ries can be a lifetime of learning. What a joy     following your calling and taking us along.
about planting and roasting coffee ignited the
                                                    to deep-dive and find a delicious pourable         ¡Salud!
possibility of her swerve. Fast-forward a year
                                                    output to ones life work!
later and she and this friend began working                                                            Sabrina A. Falquier Montgrain,
                                                      She is ever-expanding her business: from
together. They now have two harvests and                                                               MD, is a internal medicine physi-
                                                    wholesale clients and Amazon Mexico sales to
a farm in Puebla, Mexico. Alongside this,                                                              cian with expertise in Culinary
                                                    the beginnings of wholesale and retail sales in    Medicine
they work with farmers and communities in
                                                    the United States. These international aspects
other areas of Mexico: Chiapas, Veracruz and

Jovan Sage Improves
Wellness through Food
By Cathy Branciaroli
(Philadelphia)
Jovan Sage         Sage's Larder
Brunswick, Georgia
www.sageslarder.com
 As the founding president of LDEI’s new
Savannah and Coastal Georgia Chapter,
Jovan Sage, the creator of Sage’s Larder and
related businesses, is on a mission to promote      that it is by grace, hard work, and the sup-       to help them visualize successful food busi-
wellness, sustainable food, and agriculture.        port of a small army of women that she has         nesses and create business strategies around
She has worked for 20 years nationally and          achieved her success. Networking with other        value-added products. She believes in seeding
internationally to improve wellness through         Dames has not only been a personal inspira-        that promotes healing, resiliency, and joy
food. Her businesses span herbal solutions,         tion but an asset in promoting her business. A     daily, with food and drink being the perfect
and she considers herself a food alchemist,         former Legacy Award winner, she is grate-          vehicle. Her days are steeped in transforming
focusing on the intersections of race, culture      ful for the connections and camaraderie she        seeds into plants and plants into warming
within wellness, sustainability, food, and          receives through Les Dames. She also is a          teas, hearty medicines, and delicious dishes.
agriculture                                         volunteer and board member of Seed Savers           Sage’s Larder was born of a desire to change
 Jovan joined Les Dames as a result of being        Exchange.                                          Jovan’s relationship to, and enjoyment of,
inspired by mentors and elders who helped             As the alchemist at Sage’s Larder, Jovan         food in a deeper way, to recreate those joys
her refine her skills and visions, and by the       guides people to find their own resiliency         by learning how from the inside out. Every-
photographers and designers who helped her          through food, herbal tea, and plants. She
to see herself more clearly. She will tell you      works with farmers and small food producers        continued on next page

S P R I N G Q U A RT E R LY 2 021                                                                                                                  5
Hands On! Artisan Food & Beverage Producers - Les Dames d'Escoffier ...
one has the power to
change their world and       Erin Olivari
change their health
through growing, cook-       Crafts Vegan
ing and eating. She
believes in empowering       Cheese
people to make that          By Dawn Paiva, (Hawaii)
change.
  She has worked             Erin Olivari
one-on-one with small        The Vegan Cheese Shoppe
business owners to
                             Honolulu, Hawaii
launch their cafe and
                             www.thevegancheeseshoppe.com
gourmet market/espres-
so bars to embrace the         After years spent working in fine-
product of small-scale       dining establishments, surrounded         letting the subtle flavor of the nuts    than quality vegan cheese. It’s a
farmers, food artisans       by high-end gourmet ingredients,          shine through.”                          shame, but luckily there are people
and producers. Jovan         Erin Olivari found herself more in-         Her first signed account was with a    who are willing to pay for a sustain-
currently is mentoring       terested in promoting healthier food      local chain, Down to Earth, which        able, cruelty-free—and of course,
small farmers and food       options. The Food Studies program         specializes in vegetarian and vegan      delicious!—alternative cheese
producers in Georgia         at New York University allowed her        products. Over the past three years,     product.”
on flavor, marketing         to combine her passions for food,         Erin has expanded into other retail-       Other business challenges Erin
and sales.                   culture, nutrition, and hospital-         ers in Hawaii and California, as well    faces are balancing the demands of
  When asked what            ity and led to her realization that a     as online sales through Amazon and       production against marketing and
inspired her to develop      plant-based diet could play an im-        her own e-commerce shop.                 marketing on a very limited budget.
this focus, she said that    portant role in improving the health        The Vegan Cheese Shoppe’s flag-        “I joined Les Dames to network
her childhood was spent      of people and the environment. But,       ship cheese is Macadamia Nut             with like-minded, successful women
working at her grand-        she says, “As I became increasingly       “Brie,” a creamy, spreadable, rindless   in the food world, and I could
father’s stall at Kansas     dedicated to a plant-based diet, I was    Brie alternative. “It’s best enjoyed     not ask for more support from the
City’s City Market.          disappointed by the vegan cheese          on a cheese plate with crackers or a     Hawai‘i chapter and the organiza-
Working there allowed        options available.”                       baguette,” Erin suggests. “But you       tion as a whole,” she says.
her to explore the sea-        Upon moving to Hawaii in 2015,          can use it in so many ways, from           Her Dame colleagues have already
sons through the food        armed with a Master of Arts in Food       stuffed mushrooms to spinach and         helped her to bring more awareness
stalls and farm stands       Studies, Erin discovered that locally     artichoke dip.” Erin also offers         to her company. Co-presidents Jenn
there, seeing and tasting    grown macadamia nuts could be the         Cashew and Macadamia Grated              Marr and Kristin Jackson arranged,
food from all over the       key to providing better vegan op-         “Parm” (ideal for pasta or in pesto)     hosted, and filmed a product dem-
world. Following that        tions. She created The Vegan Cheese       and a dairy-, gluten- and soy-free       onstration and tutorial with Erin and
experience, she worked       Shoppe in 2016 and spent the next         product called Better Than Bread         Angél Foster, owner of Island Olive
at independent coffee        year perfecting recipes. Matching the     Crumbs, which adds texture and           Oil Company, and Vegan Cheese
and tea shops. She           texture and mouth feel of traditional     flavor (as well as plant-based pro-      Shoppe products are now available
says that this founda-       dairy-based cheese was a goal for her,    tein) to any dish that could benefit     at both Island Olive Oil locations, in
tion shaped her palate,      and tree nuts contain a similar fat,      from a bit of savory crunch.             Honolulu and Kailua.
her desire to travel to      protein, and carbohydrate mix as            As the market for animal-free            Dames receive a 10% discount on
the places where these       animal milk.                              products grows, Erin sees more           products from The Vegan Cheese
foods come from, and           “Macadamia nuts have a rich, but-       opportunities. “I forecast that vegan    Shoppe’s website, www.theveg-
resulted not only in her     tery flavor that is very like tradi-      cheese will be marketed right next       ancheeseshoppe.com, using code
businesses, but in her       tional Brie, plus they’re a nutritional   to animal-milk cheese, in the same       DAMES. You can also find Erin’s
personal cabinets over-      powerhouse,” she observes. “You           way that we’ve seen tremendous           vegan cheese on Amazon.com.
flowing with jars of teas,   can combine the mac nuts with             growth in the varieties of milk-type
spices and herbs.            other tree nuts to create different       products offered in the grocery          Dawn Paiva is Sole
  Anyone interested in       tastes and textures. My goal was          store,” she says. “Our challenge is      Proprietor, Put It On
                             to create a product that would pay        that tree nuts are expensive, and        My Plate
buying Sage’s Larder
products can do so by        homage to traditional cheese by           because of government subsidies,
visiting its website,        using only a few key ingredients and      animal-milk cheese is much cheaper
sageslarder.com, and if
you live in the area, she
makes regular personal       Deborah O’Kelly Crafts the Best-tasting
appearances at popups,
farmers markets and          Artisan Granola in New England
festivals.                   By CiCi Williamson (Washington, D.C.)
Cathy
Branciaroli
                             Deborah O’Kelly (New England)                   Bearing a logo drawn by her daughter
                             Gol den Gi rl Granol a                         Jacquie, inspired by Pippi Longstocking,
is a food
                                                                            Golden Girl Granola began 13 years ago
writer                       Shirley, M assac husetts
who blogs                                                                   as a product sold at the Carlisle, Mas-
                             w w w. goldengirlgranola.co m
at www.                                                                     sachusetts, farmers market. It’s now sold
delawaregirleats.typepad.                                                   in supermarkets and specialty stores in
com/                                                                        New England and online.
6                                                                                                        Les Dames d’Escoffier International
Hands On! Artisan Food & Beverage Producers - Les Dames d'Escoffier ...
Having earlier toyed with catering or toffee                                                           Every day I learn new ways to expand and
making, Deborah O’Kelly’s family-owned                                                                   grow our business. The work is never done,
business, based in Shirley, Massachusetts, now                                                           and there are always new possibilities; and
offers seven varieties of granola: Bluesberry                                                            that is what I love about it…that and being
(“Jacquie used to play the trombone,” Debo-                                                              able to offer a product that brings people joy
rah explains), Chocolate Decadence, Cre-                                                                 and having people who work for us who en-
ative Cranberry, Forest Maple, Home Sweet                                                                joy coming to work each day,” said Deborah.
Honey, Original, and Truly Tropical.                                                                      She has found that the constant challenges
  “We use the finest ingredients and make                                                                to business success are finding new sales
everything by hand. The only equipment we                                                                outlets, hiring people who work well together,
use besides our oven is two machines: one                                                                and increasing volume and efficiency while
that weighs the granola before it empties it                                                             keeping spending down.
into a bag, and a one to seal the bags. Three         Deborah had always loved to cook and bake           Several members of the New England Chap-
years ago we began experimenting with a             in particular, but she had no formal training        ter knew Deborah and invited her to become
granola bar and finally decided on a recipe         in either food production or business. “It           a Dame. “I really loved meeting women who
that complemented our loose granola. It came        was one step in front of the other and still         had similar interests. Being in Les Dames has
from a coconut and honey cluster that we            is, in many ways. I first had to get a kitchen       been both personally gratifying and inspir-
used to sell at the farmers markets and that        permit from my hometown to be able to sell           ing. It’s always fun to see members’ products
customers raved about,” said Deborah.               food directly to customers at farmers markets.       in new stores; to know what an accomplish-
  “Instead of baking the clusters in mini muf-      From there I learned I needed to be in a com-        ment it is for them to have their product in
fin cups, we bake it in sheet pans and then cut     mercial kitchen in order to sell in stores. We       a particular store; and to have personally met
the bars with a commercial cutter we had cus-       built out our own commercial kitchen with            them,” she said enthusiastically.
tom made. This was a big step for us because        advice from people I met at the Massachusetts        CiCi Williamson is an author, food
the process of making the bars is completely        Specialty Food Association (MSFA).                   and travel writer, and editor of the
different from making loose granola. It was           “A couple of years later I became acquainted       spring and fall LDEI Quarterly.
also a financial risk because at the time we        with distributors and added a marketing
had only one large customer for the bars.”          person to our team who handles social media.

Deborah Stone Crafts
Pickles, Jams, Cheeses,
and More
By Martha Johnston (Birmingham)
Deborah Stone
Stone Hollow Farmstead
Harpersville, Alabama
www.stonehollowfarmstead.com
 When entrepreneur Deborah Stone sold               the kitchen or they might get pickled.               customer favorites.
her Day Spa in 1999, she immediately began            The biggest challenges for Stone Hollow             In addition to selling products at her own
looking for land. She wanted to go back to          Farmstead have been wholesale and retail on-         two retail stores, Deborah sells locally at farm-
the farm. So with her husband, Russell, and         line sales. After taking a line of food in jars to   ers markets, on her website, and online on
daughters, Fallon and Alexandra, Deborah            the Atlanta Gift Market in 2018, Deborah’s           platforms such as Faire. Greenwise Markets
founded Stone Hollow Farmstead. The farm            business began to grow rapidly. Then Food 52         also carry her products.
has grown into a business that now includes         brought Stone Hollow into its online store.           When asked why she joined the LDEI
Farmstead Laboratories and FarmStand by             Especially important during the pandemic,            Birmingham chapter, Deborah replied it was
Stone Hollow Farmstead, as well.                    these markets developed online platforms for         to collaborate with and celebrate women in
 Today, Deborah’s life is filled with the same      customers to buy safely, and Deborah and her         food. She appreciates the support and security
love of farm, food, and work that her parents       team are now set up for that. Stone Hollow           of knowing that she has other women in
taught her. As a child, she learned to preserve     has become more streamlined in managing              similar businesses who “get it” and welcome
foods and to grow vegetables and flowers.           shipping and has expanded production sched-          the sharing of ideas.
These skills, coupled with a passion for clean      ules, but staffing is still a challenge.              Deborah is quick to say LDEI membership is
food, her innate creativity and business acu-         Stone Hollow Farmstead produces lots of            absolutely an asset in promoting Stone Hollow
men, drove the evolution of Stone Hollow.           foods in jars: pickles, jams, jellies, marmalades,   Farmstead. “The Birmingham chapter hosts a
It’s just done on a commercial scale now.           conserves. Her creative condiments, including        number of local events that have created new
 In addition to the 100-member CSA and the          a beautiful Rose Geranium Jelly, made a recent       business opportunities,” according to Deborah.
goat dairy, Deborah grows close to 20 acres         Food & Wine list of “Best Mail-Order Food            “LDEI member referrals have helped, too.”
of vegetables, flowers, berries, figs, and herbs.   Gifts from Every State.” They have goat and
Crops are grown year around, so all are busy        cow cheeses including award-winning Fresh            Martha Johnston is retired as Vice
planting, harvesting, cooking, pasteurizing,        Chevre with Chive Blossoms and Goat Milk             President of food marketing/direc-
cheese-making, preserving, developing recipes,                                                           tor of business development at
                                                    Feta. A line of Bloody Mary mixes, Cham-             Southern Living magazine.
ordering, receiving, etc. The kitchen is always     pagne Pickled Okra, and Pickled Peaches are
“on,” and visitors are jokingly told not to go in
S P R I N G Q U A RT E R LY 2 021                                                                                                                        7
Hands On! Artisan Food & Beverage Producers - Les Dames d'Escoffier ...
Coming Home to
[Buzzard’s] Roost
By Susan Reigler (Kentucky)
Judith Hollis-Jones
B uz za r d ’s Ro o s t
L o u isv ill e , Ke n t u c k y
w w w. b u z z a rd s ro o s t whiskey. c om

  LDEI President Judith Hollis-Jones has
decades of experience in the culinary world,
including as a supply chain executive for Yum
Brands and as the head of her own company,
Hollis Jones & Associates, an executive re-       products out on the shelves at all times. So,       As an entrepreneur she’s been pleased to be
cruiting firm specializing in the food indus-     today we have two standard core products, a        surrounded in LDEI by other women with
try. Her latest professional venture is very      very small batch in a single barrel.”              the same professional bend. And she’s pleased
geographically appropriate for the Louisville       The whiskeys produced to date are all ryes.      that both she and Buzzard’s Roost continue to
resident.                                         They are sourced from MGP Distillery in            embrace new ventures.
  “After having lived lots of other places and    Lawrenceburg, Indiana, just over the Ohio           While Buzzard’s Roost is only available in
coming back to Kentucky, I wanted to get          border near Cincinnati. In less than two           Kentucky for now, Judith says that 2021 will
myself more immersed into the Kentucky            years, Buzzard’s Roost ryes have received both     see an expansion of distribution.
culture,” Judith explained. “I wanted to be       gold medals at the prestigious San Francisco        “We are launching into five additional states
in something that was very Kentucky and           Spirits Competition and have been named            early this year and hope that by the end of
whiskey fits that well. And it happens to be      one of the “15 Best New Whiskeys of 2020”          the year is somewhere between seven and 10
something that I enjoyed.”                        by Paste Magazine.                                 additional states.”
  She began to research and learn about bour-       She and Brauner worked with Independent           Dames interested in sampling Buzzard’s will
bon visiting both distilleries and the many       Stave cooperage to get four different custom-      be able to do so in Illinois, Indiana, Mis-
bourbon-centric restaurants in Louisville. She    ized, proprietary barrels which differ in toast    souri, Kansas, and Ohio. “Massachusetts has
met her now-business partner Jason Brauner        and char levels. Since some 70% of the flavor      expressed interest and they are in line right
when she visited his Bourbons Bistro in 2015.     of whiskey comes from the barrel, this is a        behind New York, Florida, and Texas.”
  Once they determined they wanted to             major part of whiskey production.                   That’s not all, “Today we are a rye company,
launch a whiskey brand, Buzzard’s Roost Sip-        Judith said, “I joined Les Dames originally      but we will be releasing a bourbon hopefully
pin’ Whiskeys took flight quickly.                because it was philanthropic. I’ve always been     in April.”
  “We opened the business officially, filed our   involved in in charity or arts organizations,      Susan Reigler is an award-winning
incorporation in the end of 2018, and then        and so I was looking for those that I wanted       writer and certified Executive
released our first product in July of 2019.We     to participate in. I love being representative     Bourbon Steward.
have produced five products since starting        of the industry that I spent 20 years in and
the business. Our strategy is to keep three       being philanthropic.”

Rhonda Kave:
Chocolatier, Activist,
Inspiration
By Kathleen Squires (New York)

Rhonda Kave
R oni -S u e ’s C h o c o la t es
Ne w Yo r k C i t y
w w w. ro n i - s u e .c o m
  Rhonda Kave learned about the power of
the pivot well before it became the signature
survival tactic of 2020. In fact, 13 years ago,
it was her willingness to adapt that inspired
                                                  Market on the Lower East Side of Manhattan         ethically sourced” chocolates, such as her
her to fashion a decades-long hobby into the
                                                  where she came upon a tiny space—literally         “Cocktail Collection” of boozy truffles, and
small business of her dreams.
                                                  a storage closet—for rent. An avid chocolate       spicy “Chile Lovers Collection.” She expand-
  In 2007, Rhonda was a social worker at the
                                                  maker, she envisioned it as a “delightful little   ed her repertoire to caramel corn, lollipops,
Coalition Against Domestic Violence, pursu-
                                                  chocolate shop.” She rented it and the Roni-       butter-crunch toffee, pretzels, and chocolate-
ing a Bachelors degree in sociology at night at
                                                  Sue’s Chocolate brand was born.                    covered bacon.
New York University. Her final senior project
                                                   Roni-Sue’s made its name on “unique and            “Mainstream isn’t my lane,” she says of her
prompted her to visit the original Essex Street
8                                                                                                       Les Dames d’Escoffier International
Hands On! Artisan Food & Beverage Producers - Les Dames d'Escoffier ...
sometimes quirky flavor profiles, relying on        tion and intervention initiatives, and this year    Of course, 2020 presented its own set of
“good cacao well-fermented, well-roasted,           she has worked with Sakhi for South Asian          challenges for Rhonda. In 2019, Essex Market
and well-conched.” To ensure high-quality,          Women, a survivor-led movement for gender          moved to a brand new location. Business was
Rhonda co-founded MOHO Chocolate,                   justice and violence survivors. She also donat-    booming: she sold out for Christmas and
based in Belize, in the interest of creating a      ed 20% of online sales in June to The Okra         Valentine’s Day, her classes were booked solid,
“single-origin, direct trade couverture” to use     Project for the Black Lives Matter movement        and she grew her customer base by 60%.
in her confections.                                 and in support of Black trans women.               Then came the pandemic, which forced her to
  “Traveling to Belize to meet with farmers           Her “women helping women” ethos is what          close her retail stall, but Rhonda successfully
and local chocolate makers really gave me a         propelled Rhonda to join the New York              pivoted her classes to a virtual format, and in
deeper understanding of cacao, chocolate, and       Chapter of LDEI. As a Dame, she enjoys col-        January, she launched a new website and so-
what it means to make and eat the real stuff,”      laborating with other Dame-owned businesses        cial media campaign. Roni-Sue’s confections
she says. In her popular chocolate classes,         and working on the Green Tables Committee.         are now available on her website, at small
“I let folks know the difference between              Her best advice for Dames starting a busi-       businesses, and Chelsea Market Baskets, and
‘big chocolate,’ and craft chocolate makers,        ness: “Be very sure you’re ready for the stress    via igourmet.com.
especially as concerns child labor and child        and sleepless nights. Starting your own busi-
slavery, in the commodity cocoa system in           ness isn’t easy. In retrospect, I think it would   Kathleen Squires is a food and
West Africa, the source of two-thirds of the        also have been good to find a partner whose        travel writer who won a first
world’s cocoa supply.”                              skill set complemented my own. Having              prize in LDEI’s 2016 M.FK. Fisher
                                                                                                       Award.
  A strong advocate for women, Rhonda con-          someone to share the load, the successes and
tinues to support domestic-violence preven-         the set-backs is important.”

Sugar and Spice and
Everything Nice
By Cynthia Graubart (Atlanta)
Suzi Sheffield
B e a ut i f u l Br in y S e a
A t la n t a , G e o rg i a
w w w. b e a u t i f u l b r i n y sea. c om
  That’s what Suzi Sheffield (Atlanta) is made
of. That, and a big scoop of fearlessness.
Always industrious, Suzi has been working
since she was 10 years old. Babysitting, wait-
ing tables, catering, and then starting her own
restaurant, she isn’t afraid of hard work. After
17 years at the helm of her own restaurant
in Columbia, South Carolina, she returned
home to Atlanta to be closer to her family
and her sweetheart. She knew she didn’t want        serving hungry students, families, and young       step at a time.
to continue in the restaurant industry with its     professionals who didn’t have time to cook,         Becoming a Dame of the Atlanta Chapter
constant chaos, but she could never leave the       to making pinches of pizzaz to brighten up         in 2017 opened many doors for Suzi. “As an
food community—the farmers, chefs, and lo-          home cooked meals.                                 independent business owner, I feel like I have
cal food initiatives—that she loved so much.         Big decisions—and big lessons—come from           a built-in advisory board.” But most of all, it’s
  Suzi, a self-taught cook, took her love of        growth, so it’s a constant push and pull for       the connection with other women that she
the land and the people who cultivate it and        whether or not to stay a small mom-and-            loves. “I’ve made lifelong friends here in the
formed the dry goods company Beautiful              pop shop, or swim with the sharks in deeper,       Atlanta Chapter and around the world.”
Briny Sea in 2011. Nearly 10 years later, it is     darker, and potentially more profitable waters.     Her business partnerships with LDEI have
a thriving business with an array of products       Diving into the restaurant industry, Suzi had      been rewarding and always result in increased
including irresistible savory salt blends like      no capital or business plan, but she had the       exposure and sales, whether it’s sponsoring
French Picnic (sea salt with Dijon mustard,         realization after college that she wanted to       conference or participating in a giveaway.
garlic, and Herbes de Provence) and Magic           work only for herself. Growing and scaling         “No matter if I’m struggling, celebrating, or
Unicorn (sea salt with smoked paprika, garlic,      this business is top of mind constantly. Shift-    questioning, Dames are right by my side.”
rosemary, and celery seed).                         ing between the scenarios of bigger debt for        The best benefit, Suzi says, is that LDEI is a
  She also created dazzling sugars with ethereal    bigger markets, or slower, sustained growth is     platform for service, with the opportunity to
and catchy names like Pocket Full of Star-          a delicate balancing act. Learning the power       raise funds, and mentor young women. “It is
light (a vanilla sugar) and Mr. Gigglepants         of yes—and no—has kept her head out of the         the crux of who we are and what we do.”
(hibiscus and citrus scented sugar). Sold           clouds and her mind clear on her mission of
online and in retailers like Whole Foods and        sustained growth.                                  Cynthia Graubart is a food writer
Williams Sonoma, her product line includes           Her private label blends in collaboration         and co-author of Mastering the
20 different blends, each available individu-                                                          Art of Southern Cooking.
                                                    with William Sonoma, Kevin Gillespe’s
ally or sold in carefully crafted mixed sets. She   Gunshow, and Jeni’s Ice Cream are exciting
sees this business as a full-circle journey from    projects and Suzi is eager to do more—one
S P R I N G Q U A RT E R LY 2 021                                                                                                                      9
Hands On! Artisan Food & Beverage Producers - Les Dames d'Escoffier ...
Ellie’s Dairy:
Nursery Rhymes to
Cheese Rinds
By Julia Platt Leonard (London)
Debbie Vernon
E l l i e ’s D a ir y
F a v e r sh a m , Ke n t , E n gland
w w w. e ll i e s d a i r y.c o .u k
  We have Auntie Flo and the nursery rhyme
“Paddy McGinty’s Goat” to thank for Debbie
Vernon becoming an artisan producer of             producer of raw goat’s milk in the United           Jacqui had been a customer and strong sup-
goat’s milk, cheese, and meat based in Kent,       Kingdom. They also have a range of fresh,         porter for a long time when she invited Ver-
in southeast England. The owner and director       ripened and hard cheeses and premium-quality      non to join the chapter. “I was unsure what
of Ellie’s Dairy, she sat on her aunt’s lap and    kid meat. But it’s not just what they produce     I could possibly offer such an elite band of
listened to nursery rhymes. But it was one in      that sets them apart but HOW they do it.          ladies, so it was only recently that I accepted
particular that caught her imagination – the         “Capturing a niche market is always a           the challenge!” Vernon says. While chapter
tale of Paddy McGinty’s Goat (“Mister Pat-         challenge but we are not your average com-        contact has been limited this year, Vernon
rick McGinty, an Irishman of note, came into       mercial goat herd,” Debbie says. “We allow        says she’s enjoyed the events she has attended.
a fortune, so bought himself a goat…”).            our goats to graze, we breed only seasonally,     And as much as she’s looking to gain from
  Flash forward to 2004, and Debbie Vernon,        and we do not cull ‘unproductive’ or elderly      LDEI, she’s also eager to contribute. “I look
too, bought herself a goat—in fact three fe-       goats but allow them to retire within the         forward to working with Les Dames over the
male kids. Vernon was inspired by her father,      herd,” she adds. They even name each goat,        coming years and hopefully use my experi-
who was an accomplished gardener and grew          and you can read their “bios” on the Ellie’s      ence as a farmer and primary food producer
fruit and vegetables organically long before       Dairy website (the dairy is in fact named         to mentor and educate others.”
it was fashionable. And while her partner,         after one of their original goats).                 In a world where factory farming is all too
David, came from a dairy and beef cattle             “Our ethos has always been to produce a         often the norm, Ellie’s Dairy is an example
farming family, they had stopped farming           smaller amount of very high quality milk          of how farming can and should be done. We
when his father retired. The two were eager to     from a herd that is full of happy, contented      owe a debt of gratitude to Auntie Flo…and of
start their own farm. At first, they kept their    and healthy animals,” she says. They supply       course to Paddy McGinty.
day jobs (Vernon was an IT manager) while          small delis and farm shops and provide some       Julia Platt Leonard is a writer
they got the business off the ground.              local doorstop delivery, but they rely mainly     and marketing and food con-
  By Spring 2006, they had their first kids, and   on farmers markets, which is where Vernon         sultant and the host of the
                                                   met the London Chapter’s President, Jacqui        Divertimenti Culinary Salon in
in January 2008, they were approved to sell                                                          London
raw milk. Today they are reputedly the largest     Pickles.

Pam Powell IS the
Salad Girl!
By Cindy Jergensen (Minnesota)
Pam Powell
Salad Girl
Willernie, Minnesota
www.saladgirl.com
  Successful for years in the painting/decorat-
ing industry, Pam Powell (Minnesota) and
husband Jim created a unique organic-foods
catering company, Obscene Cuisine. Pam
used local and seasonal ingredients to design
beautiful centerpiece salads with her spectacu-
lar vinaigrettes. Then, sadly, the 2007 reces-
sion hit. At age 50 they started Salad Girl,       age to Pam’s first and favorite job in the food   cook, saucier, hostess, waitress, bartender,
pivoting to pay bills while fulfilling Pam’s       industry. As a teen she was the “Salad Girl”      and banquet and private chef for a wealthy
life-long dream of bringing fresh, organic         at a Northern Minnesota resort. Her favorite      household.
dressings to the marketplace.                      part? Crafting salads and house-made dress-        Still painting and decorating, Pam and Jim
  The Powells began selling at farmers markets     ings from delicious, fresh ingredients.           painted an Italian frieze for the owners of
and co-ops, including the boutique Mill City        During and after art school, Pam was a           a local grocery chain, Kowalski’s Markets.
Market near Minneapolis’ Guthrie Theater,          freelance artist while she continued work-        When Pam mentioned her dream to the Kow-
naming their company “Salad Girl” in hom-          ing all aspects of restaurants and kitchens:      alski’s of bringing delicious, fresh, organic

10                                                                                                      Les Dames d’Escoffier International
salad dressings to their store shelves, they        Some of the distinct savory and sweet com-       cious food and drink to attendees. Proceeds
agreed to help. They were blown away by the        binations that make Salad Girl so successful?     go toward culinary scholarships, an urban
unique flavor combinations and that the re-        Crisp Apple Maple, Blueberry Basil, Pome-         youth garden program, and microgrants.“As a
frigerated vinaigrettes were fresh, not cooked,    granate Pear, Lemony Herb, Chile Limon,           triple bottom-line Mom and Poppy company,
and without preservatives. (Salad Girl was         Toasted Sesame Ginger, Curry & Fig, Dude          because of Les Dames I am always able to
first to have cold-blended, certified-organic      Ranch, and more! Pam’s dressings are on the       fulfill my yearly initiative for giving back to
salad dressings!) Pam’s suggestion to cross        shelves of 450 stores in the Midwest; they        the community!”
market them next to the organic produce was        ship nationwide through their online store.        Support Pam’s philanthropy with your
new and brilliant!                                  As a proud Dame, Pam said that sur-              purchases from her beautiful website www.
  2010 brought competition and trademark           rounding herself with women in the food           saladgirl.com/or the book she illustrated and
infringement on her brand (“Salad Girl still       industry provides guidance, connection and        designed: Beautiful Salads by Pam Powell.
maintains its better flavor, integrity and shelf   community. Les Dames has enabled her to
space on the refrigerated produce shelves!”)       give back bigger and better than she could
then COVID put a damper on new growth              have achieved by herself through the Min-         Cindy Jurgensen is president
as grocery stores ended Salad Girl’s successful    nesota Chapter’s annual fundraiser, “Dame         of the Minnesota Chapter. She
                                                                                                     specializes in Culinary instruction,
in-store brand sampling, but 10 years of hard      It!” Members’ expertise and connections fill      recipe testing, and editing.
work doing demos built a strong, loyal custom-     a beautiful event space with women-owned
er basewhich paid off. Sales were up in 2020!      restaurants and food businesses, serving deli-

Claire Meneely Bakes
the Best Baguettes in
Nashville
By Nancy Vienneau (Nashville)
Claire Meneely
DOZ E N
Na sh v ill e , Te n n e s s e e
w w w. d o z e n - n a s h v i l l e. c om
 Claire Meneely, owner of DOZEN bak-
ery and café in Nashville, can trace her love
of baking back to childhood. Each year, she
would help her mom prepare a fabulous
spread of quiches, ham-rolls, coconut cake,        had to offer. She enjoyed being close to family   pickup or delivery. In June, she introduced
and hot cross buns for the family’s neighbor-      and part of a vibrant local food scene. She       her walk-up window, which has taken over as
hood Easter brunch. Throughout high school,        also met her future husband John.                 the popular method. DOZEN is sustaining.
Claire worked for a catering company, and           Moving from pop-up to bricks-and-mortar           “Our wholesale business for 2020 is down
she attended culinary school in San Francisco      took longer than anticipated. On Groundhog        by 40%—and that’s after gaining Whole
before enrolling at the University of California   Day 2015, Claire opened DOZEN bakery              Foods as a client at the beginning of the year,”
at Santa Cruz. A proud Banana Slug [UCSC’s         and café in the Wedgewood-Houston neigh-          Claire says. “Our retail is down 15%, which is
mascot], she double-majored in Business and        borhood. At last she had the ovens and space      not as bad as some.”
Environmental Studies. Her hands-on training                                                          Claire joined the Nashville chapter in 2018.
                                                   to bake an array of loaves: Hearth Rye, French
came in two exceptional places: For 2 ½ years,                                                       “Erin Mosow encouraged me to become a
                                                   Country Sourdough, Quinoa Sunflower Seed
she was the kitchen manager for Bakesale Bet-                                                        member,” she says. “I saw it as a great oppor-
                                                   Boule, Oatmeal Pullman.
ty, Chez Panisse alum Alison Barakat’s business
                                                    Her baguettes are the best in town. With a       tunity to connect with these amazing leaders
that got its start at a Bay Area farmers mar-
                                                   rotating roster of seasonal soups, salads and     in our community.”
ket. Claire honed her craft at several Parisian
                                                   sandwiches, the café brought a new and wel-        Working with several Dames in September
boulangeries, notably Blé-Sucré. There, she also
                                                   come dimension to DOZEN.                          2019, Claire organized and hosted Bakers
discovered her love of baking bread.
                                                    Quality and Consistency are DOZEN                United for Families to raise money for Im-
 When she returned from Paris to her home-
                                                   watchwords. Claire believes that an open,         migrant Families Together. Over 35 bakers,
town in the fall of 2009, Claire launched
                                                   positive workplace allows her employees to        pastry chefs, and restaurants citywide partici-
DOZEN, a pop-up bakery at the Nashville
                                                   achieve those goals.                              pated. In less than 2 hours, the event sold out,
Farmers Market to sell her specialty cookies,
                                                    “Many of us have experienced toxic kitch-        garnering donations in excess of $6000.
made with local and organic ingredients. Be-
cause she planned to leave after the holidays,     ens,” she says. “DOZEN gave me the chance          “This was a beautiful community effort,”
this was conceived as three-month stint.           to set up my own environment, and create          Claire says. “COVID cut into our ability to do
 But life demonstrated otherwise. People           care for each person.”                            anything like this in 2020, but we are commit-
loved her goods, and demand grew. She ex-           The pandemic forced changes to her busi-         ted to doing so again, once it is safe.”
panded her pop-up to other farmers markets.        ness model. “My challenges were: How can I
                                                                                                     Nancy Vienneau is the restaurant
She increased her offerings to include muffins,    keep my people employed and safe; how can I       critic for The Tennessean newspa-
scones, galettes, quickbreads, and croissants,     safely keep feeding my customers?” She closed     per and a freelance writer.
and started wholesaling to restaurants and         the café dining room. By early April she had
coffee shops. Nashville was ready for what she     developed an online pre-order system for

S P R I N G Q U A RT E R LY 2 021                                                                                                                  11
LE AD E R S H I P I N AC TI O N

                            Cordia Harrington, CEO
                            The Bakery Cos.
                            Nashville, Tennessee
                            bakerycos.com

                                                                                                                                       Bill Serie, Plant
Cordia Harrington                                                                                                                      Manager,
                                                                                                                                       Tennessee Bun
                                                                                                                                       Company,
Says, "Success                                                                                                                         and owner/
                                                                                                                                       CEO Cordia

Takes Belief, Focus,
                                                                                                                                       Harrington.

Risk, Passion"
  Would you borrow $13.5 million to create
a company? Cordia Harrington (Nashville)
did in 1996. With the loan, she created the
Tennessee Bun Company, which is today one
of the fastest automated bakeries in the world.
It produces 1,000 buns a minute.
  “If you really believe in what you are doing,
and you believe it will benefit other people,
then you’ll be successful. Just be totally en-
thusiastic about it. Stay focused. Stay passion-   of money available. Money isn’t as important     the customer is King.”
ate,” advises Cordia. “It’s really important is    as having the focus, the passion and the real      Cordia is a believer in not giving up. She
to try and understand your customer. Pick a        belief that this is something good.”             said, “I firmly believe that we don’t learn as
customer you believe in. A lot of times when         Are there challenges? “Oh, my gosh, yes,”      much from our good experiences as we do
people are starting out, they know who their       said Cordia. “It’s never easy. Your job title    from our challenges. So when I look back on
focused customer is. If they can understand        should not be CEO; it should be Chief            my life, I see the really rough times and how I
what that customer’s needs are, then that will     Troubleshooting Person on the Planet. I can      had to do things differently, and through that
lead to success as well.”                          give you story after story after story where     came success.
  The English muffins on an Egg McMuffin           I thought, ‘Well, this is the end, and I am        “Look long term and embrace whatever chal-
at McDonald’s? Her company makes them as           watching myself going down the tubes.’”          lenge you are going through. In the end, you
well as those buttery rolls at O’Charley’s and       People call Cordia Harrington “The Bun         will learn more and be a better person from it.
KFC’s biscuits. Her companies’ clients also        Lady” and not just behind her back. She’s        And I would say to anybody who has a busi-
include Perkins, Pepperidge Farm, and Sheetz.      quite fond of the nickname, even strapping       ness that they need to have some friend who is
But it’s taken this Nashville millionaire a long   on a plastic derriere sometimes during speak-    at the same level, so when they do feel like they
time to get where she is.                          ing engagements—mainly because buns have         are facing an insurmountable problem, they
  A realtor and single mom of three sons, she      made her a millionaire.                          have someone to talk to. That will give them
bought a McDonald’s franchise in Illinois. Its       In addition to the Tennessee Bun Company       emotional support as well as some sage advice.”
low sales led her to purchase a Greyhound bus      (TBC), now she also owns the Nashville Bun         Should Dames start a new business during
franchise and changed its routes to run past       Company, Cold Storage of Nashville, and          challenging times? “If you look at history,
her restaurant. It worked. “In the winter, we      CornerStone Baking Company. In 2014,             there have been 17 recessions and 17 recover-
averaged 68 buses a day, and in the summer,        Cordia purchased an artisan facility, Masada,    ies. We are on our way to recovery right now
over 100 buses a day—all stopping for food,”       in Atlanta. This artisan bakery has an organic   from our current challenge. When I look
she revealed. Learning that McDonald’s             line, bagel line, bun and bread line, and        back at my real estate business, my McDon-
needed a bun supplier, she fought like mad to      Danish pastry line, delivering fresh product     ald’s franchise, my Greyhound bus franchise,
become the supplier, even though her résumé        to over 1,400 customers in seven states in the   the bakery—I started all of those during an
included no bakery experience.                     southeastern U.S. She transports her products    economic dip. So I believe that a recession is
  “There are going to be tons of naysayers         frozen in shipping containers to Caribbean       the right time to start a business because there
who will tell us not to take risks. They’ll tell   islands and Suriname in South America.           are needs. There aren’t as many cushy jobs.
us to keep the comfortable job where there           During 2020, TBC built a new state-of-the-     There are a lot of customers out there who are
is income and insurance. But if you believe        art croissant line in Nashville, and purchased   in chaos and are willing to change their buy-
in something, then you should go for it. The       Shecht Bakeries in Sioux City, Iowa, and         ing patterns because of what they’ve just gone
real key is that you have to have passion and      Smyrna, Georgia, doubling capacity to serve      through. So it’s a wonderful time to offer a
enthusiasm for the product or project you are      customers. In February 2021, the company         new service or product.”
going to sell,” Cordia affirms. “There’s plenty    changed its name to Crown Bakeries, “Where       -CiCi Williamson (Washington, D.C.)

12                                                                                                     Les Dames d’Escoffier International
Left: Blanca Aldaco and
                                                               Nancy Fitch, conference co-
                                                               chairs. Right: Christa Sauers’
                                                               fiesta boots. Below: San
                                                               Antonio Dames show off
                                                               one of the river boats that
                                                               will ferry attendees to the
                                                               opening reception at the
                                                               conference. From left: Chris-
                                                               ta Sauers, Allison Balfour,
                                                               Diana Barrios Trevino, Cathy
                                                               Siegel, Denise Mazal, Blanca
                                                               Aldaco, Nancy Fitch, Debby
                                                               Stein, Di-Anna Arias, Judy
                                                               Smith, Lucille Hooker, Ana
                                                               Martinez, and Linda Triesch.
                                                               Hotel Contessa.

             !
               Vamanos a San Antonio
          para la Conferencia LDEI 2021!
                       UNESCO, Creative City with a Mission, Fiesta of Flavors
     By Karen Haram                                  mariachis will play as you disembark your      the country. And, history buffs, you will
     (San Antonio)                                   boat and are handed a margarita and a          be just a few short blocks away from the
                                                     flower crown to wear.                          Cradle of Texas liberty, the Alamo.
      It’s no brag to say that things are bigger
                                                       This introduction to Texas hospitality         Texas food, drink and speakers will
     and brighter in the Lone Star State. Let us
                                                     sets the stage for a profusion of colorfully   abound throughout the conference.
     prove it at our fall 2021 LDEI conference,
                                                     decorated food booths featuring flavors        Whether you want to learn to make tama-
     “UNESCO, Creative City with a Mission,
                                                     that make up San Antonio’s unforget-           les, craft the perfect margarita, or discover
     A Fiesta of Flavors.”
                                                     table gastronomy. Craving a taco and           how native Mexican plants can promote
      Conference co-chairs Blanca Aldaco and
                                                     margarita? We’ve got it. Have a hankering      healing, you will find it here.
     Nancy Fitch and the San Antonio Chap-
                                                     for barbecue? Check. Anxious to taste the        October weather in the Alamo City is
     ter, a group of 80-plus dynamic women,
                                                     Asian influence on Texas cuisine? We’ve        about as perfect as weather gets, so order
     are pulling out all the stops for this year’s
                                                     got you covered.                               your sunscreen, brush up on your line-
     conference, starting with a boat ride on
                                                       We’ll be based at the Hotel Contessa right   dancing, and get ready to join us for a
     the world-famous San Antonio River
                                                     on the River Walk where you are steps          party that attendees will be talking about
     that will take you to the Arneson River
                                                     away from a festival of flavors that make      for years to come. See you October 14-17,
     Theater. There, a group of all-women
                                                     our city one of the top destination spots in   2021, in San Antonio!
S P R I N G Q U A RT E R LY 2 021                                                                                                                   13
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