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Summer’s The magazine The magazine forholiday for the the holiday season season in southern in southern SpainSpain / July/ 2020 July 2019 here here Stay safe in Andalucía in English 1
WHAT’S INSIDE Cover photo: Frigiliana, one of the Costa del Sol’s prettiest white villa- ges, part of the Axarquía area east of Malaga. :: SUR SUR IN ENGLISH SUMMER SPECIAL Director General: Antonio González A different summer Editor-in -Chief: Manuel Castillo Publications Director: Pedro Luis RACHEL HAYNES We are forever telling others about Gómez how wonderful the region of Andalucía is, In any normal year on the Costa del Sol, by with kilometre on kilometre of beautiful Editor: Rachel Haynes now, mid-July, the hotels would be full, the beaches, breathtaking mountain scenery Assistant editor: Daryl Finch beaches packed and business booming for and towns and cities oozing with culture. bars, restaurants and the many other serv- But how much have we actually explored Commercial Director: Jorge Artero ices that thrive on the tourism industry. ourselves? Advertising Manager: Emma Vera This year, 2020, however, will be re- How often do we move from our own Art Director: Francisco Ruano membered as the year of coronavirus and local beaches to find others in different this season is perhaps already being re- provinces from our own? Contributors to this magazine: ferred to as Covid summer. Even though we’ve made the Costa del Debbie Bartlett, Ash Bolton, Jennie While the situation could change as Sol our home, how about visiting Anda- Rhodes, Tony Bryant, Andrew Forbes, the season progresses, so far this year the lucía’s Atlantic coastline for a change? Or Javier Almellones absence of tourists from overseas has left the beautiful beaches of Almeria backed huge gaps, especially in areas with larger up by Europe’s only desert? Date: July 2020. concentrations of hotels and holiday This magazine aims to provide plenty apartments. of ideas to encourage residents to go out So who does that leave? With foreign and discover more of the region they holiday plans cancelled or postponed, resi- have made their home, or perhaps their dents in Spain are finding themselves look- second home. ing more closely at their own country for There’s no better time for a reminder of their summer holiday destinations. not just the wide variety of beaches, but Tourists from the rest of Spain have al- also the inland beauty and the cultural of- Published by Prensa Malagueña S.A. ways made up a significant proportion of fer of our towns and cities in the form of www.surinenglish.com visitors to the Costa del Sol and this year exhibitions and concerts. Twitter: @SUR_English their business is vital for the industry. Of course this Covid year will be differ- Facebook: @surenglish But this Covid summer has also caused ent; we’ll have to remember to wear masks Advertising: evera@diariosur.es people who already live in southern Spain, wherever necessary and keep our distance 952649669 many of us originally from other coun- from others, but that doesn’t have to stop Editorial: surinenglish.su@diariosur.es tries, to take a fresh look at our immediate us from going out and enjoying this sum- 952649600 surroundings. mer in Andalucía. 3
WHAT’S INSIDE Adapting to new times Accommodation in southern Spain has had to move fast to be able to offer visitors the peace of mind they need in case of Covid-19 concerns. As well as adhering heringg to health 10 and safety requirements, hotels are adapting ing to the ‘new pting normal’, offering services and activities that hatt guarantee th guests’ ability to enjoy themselves while e keeping k eping a safe social distance. A region with everything With coronavirus messing with summer plans, there’s no better time than now to rediscover the region of Anda- lucía. Over the initial four pages of this magazine e we sum su 6 up the delights of all eight provinces that make e up the re- r gion. Later - pages 18 and 54 - we take a look at how horses hor and gastronomy are just two of the many aspects ctts that merge to create the essence of the region. What to do While coronavirus has led to the cancellation of nu- merous large events, south- ern Spain still has a cultural agenda this summer. Festi- ca ed down vals have scaled do a to al- 62 low space and nd meet capac- io ons, but there ity regulations, ennty of chances are still plenty ve to enjoy live e music. Back in A view of Exploring by train time the Rock Not having your own transport might limit visits to some Go back to medieval Gibraltar has a range of at- of the more remote parts of Andalucía, however doing times to learn the story of tractions for people looking without the stress of driving and parking is a great advan- Bobastro, the city whose for day-outt ideas. Hiking tage. We discover how a large numberr of destinations can 26 46 38 little-known wn remains around thee nature ure reserve be visited from the comfort of a train, n, exploring loring the stops ploring stand not far f from the for spectacular ular views, or ular on both the C2 local line from Malagaa to Álora Álora and the world famous m us Caminito mous disappearing n down tunnels ng line from Malaga to Seville, which passes asses through hrough stun- del Rey. are among them. t ning scenery to reach fascinating towns. wns. 4
An Andalusian summer A paraglider over Matalascañas beach in Huelva province. :: SUR If you’re in Andalucía, you know others This year, with the pandemic at the fo- refront of everyone’s mind, the Andalu- elsewhere in the world are envying you sian government has put strict measures in place to ensure that beach-lovers can enjoy themselves safely, with apps which can be downloaded to show how many This is a year like no other, due plans on hold because of the coronavi- people are on the beaches in real time, to the coronavirus crisis, and rus pandemic need not worry: they maintaining social distancing, strict clea- have everything for a fantastic sum- ning and disinfecting, and extra moni- many people’s holiday plans mer right here at home. tors to patrol and offer advice if necessa- have had to be abandoned. But It is no surprise that Andalucía has be- ry. come one of the most complete destina- No matter where you are in this regi- southern Spain can beat most tions in the world. Its facilities, climate, on, you will be within travelling distan- other places hands-down excellent communications, range of ho- ce of a beach. Andalucía is home to the DEBBIE BARTLETT tels and friendly and hospitable people Costa Almería in the east, the Costa Tro- have made it a firm favourite for holi- pical in Granada province, the world-fa- days among visitors from abroad as well mous Costa del Sol in Malaga, the quie- as those in other parts of Spain. So, what ter Costa de la Luz in Cadiz and the con- is it that makes Andalucía so special? tinuation of the Costa de la Luz in Huel- va province. All very different, and all The question has to be asked: what’s Sun, sand and plenty of both very lovely. not to like about Andalucía in the For a start, as summer is here, let us not For those who get bored after soa- summer? This region in the south of forget that Andalucía has over 800 kilo- king up the sun on the beach for a few the country is the largest in Spain and metres of coastline, ranging from vast ex- hours, however, then from Huelva in is full of contrasts, so whether you panses of unspoiled deep white sand to the far west to Almería in the east, live here or are on holiday, it has tiny, rocky coves and urban beaches with the coastal area of the region also has everything you could possibly wish every facility, especially for those with numerous marinas, water sports, sea- for. Anyone who has put their travel children. front promenades, golf courses, out- 6
DIVERSITY door sports facilities, and restaurants vir, dense Mediterranean woodlands, dation and small hotels for those who to suit all tastes and budgets. for example the Natural Park of Cazor- want to immerse themselves in natu- la, Segura and Las Villas in Jaén pro- re. There are even companies speciali- Catch up on some culture vince, and even volcanic deserts and sing in activities for the youngest Most of us in Andalucía have visited stretches of coast which are comple- members of the family. some of its many historical attrac- tely uninhabited, like the Cabo de tions, but there are probably still quite Gata area in Almería. Not forgetting golf a few on our ‘I’d love to go there one Andalucía is blessed because more It would be almost unthinkable to day’ list and this is an ideal time to do than 18 per cent of its territory is en- consider spending any time in Andalu- it. After all, the history of this region vironmentally protected. There are cía without golf coming into the con- goes back an extremely long way and over 20 Natural Parks, which have fa- versation, because it is the region with there are many remains from the cilities for visitors such as information the most golf courses in Spain and the different cultures and civilisations centres, recreation areas, campsites, Costa del Sol has also been nicknamed that settled in the south of Spain over hiking routes, lookout points and re- the Costa del Golf. Its unbeatable cli- thousands of years. fuges. Outdoor activities and adventu- mate means that golf lovers can play This summer there are unlikely to re sports are becoming increasingly their favourite sport at any time of be crowds of visitors, so why not con- popular here too, and for those who year, on fantastic courses set amid sider a visit to the Alhambra in Grana- prefer to exploer by car there are nu- beautiful countryside or close to stun- da, the Mosque-Cathedral in Cordoba merous cultural and historic routes ning beaches and sea views. or the Giralda bell tower in Seville? passing through tiny villages and glo- There are about 100 courses in this And if those are already ticked off on rious countryside. region, and you can play golf in any of your list, how about the incredible If the idea of outdoor activities the provinces. It doesn’t matter what towns of Úbeda and Baeza in Jaén, appeals, there are many opportu- your stan- which together are a World Heritage nities for a rural holiday dard Site, or Arcos de la Frontera in Cádiz with a difference and province, the Roman town of Baelo plenty of self-ca- Claudia on the beach at Bolonia, also tering The village of Cazorla, in Cádiz province, Ronda with its fa- accommo- at the heart of the natural mous gorge, in Malaga, or Moguer, in park of the same name in Huelva? Jaén province. :: SUR Andalucía offers the chance to see amazing prehistoric and Roman sites, Islamic, Renaissance and Baroque ar- chitecture, castles, fortresses and mo- nasteries, in just about every one of its eight provinces. For those who prefer their culture more modern, what about the vast range of museums and art galleries, with exhibitions which change regularly to ensure that there is always something new to marvel at and enjoy? Or perhaps after so many weeks of strict lockdown, you now have the urge to get out into the countryside, breathe some fresh air and get moving again? Nature and rural tourism The contrasts in Andalucía are no better demonstrated than in its countryside. This region has some of the highest mountains on the Iberian Peninsula, in the Sierra Ne- vada in Granada, extensive wetlands such as the Marismas del Guadalqui-
DIVERSITY of play, there are practise courses, chore here. There are thermal waters, pitch and putt, courses with nine and mud treatments, massages, therapeu- 18 holes, and a huge variety of terrain. tic baths, high-pressure water thera- pies and treatments with algae in Other sports most of the natural spas and spa cen- It doesn’t matter whether you prefer tes in the region. indoor or outdoor sports, there are ex- The baths usually offer medicinal mi- cellent facilities in Andalucía, which neral waters, personalised treatments and also hosts national and international specialist medical teams, while the spas competitions for enthusiasts who like have relaxation therapies based on the to spectate rather than participate or qualities and properties of the water. compete. Just check out what’s on offer near you, or upcoming events, A thousand ways to have fun and plan accordingly. It is often said that there are a thou- Also, it may not seem relevant in sand ways to have fun and enjoy your- the heat of an Andalusian summer, The Guadalquivir, Seville. :: SUR self in Andalucía, and that is perhaps but nor should it be forgotten that this the main reason for its success as a ho- region is home to the most southerly liday destination. Whatever you feel ski resort in Europe, the Sierra Nevada like doing, you can do it here. It makes in Granada province, so anyone thin- it a great place to visit, and a wonder- king of a winter holiday might like to ful place to live. The eight provinces bear in mind that it is often possible to in Andalucía and they are all very sunbathe on the beach in Nerja or Mo- different. tril, for example, in the morning, and Almeria, in the east, is the driest ski or take part in other snow sports in area in the region and its desert-like the afternoon. The evenings, of cour- scenery made it the location for some se, are perfect for the after-ski, a few memorable ‘paella western’ films over drinks and a meal by a roaring log fire the years. There is now a Mini Ho- before tucking up in a comfortable bed llywood, giving visitors the chance to to rest before the following day’s fun go back in time and experience life in and exploits. this Spanish version of the ‘wild west’. The resort is fully equipped for fa- This provice is known for its wild milies, too, with activities and classes beauty, sublime beaches, 300 hours of just for children and their own super- The mosque-cathedral, Cordoba. :: SUR sunshine a year and also, surprisingly vised play area while Mum and Dad enough, its mountains because one are on the slopes. side of the Alpujarras (the foothills Depending on the snow, the Sierra Ne- and valleys south of the Sierra Nevada vada is normally open from November or in Granada) lies in Almeria province. December - and is a fabulous place to spend The capital, Almeria city, is a Christmas, with Santa Claus descending bustling port city crowned by a specta- from the mountain on skis, and New Year cular Moorish fortress, with nume- - until April or May. rous palm trees in the centre and some fantastic tapas bars. Health and beauty Moving on in alphabetical order, It would be perfectly understandable, Cadiz is in the south-west of Andalu- after the stresses of the lockdown and cía, and its capital is generally conside- problems associated with the pande- red to be the oldest continually inha- mic, to feel that you don’t want to be bited city in Europe, founded as ‘Ga- active and that all you want this sum- dir’ by the Phoenicians in 1100 BC It mer is a bit of pampering and wellbe- oozes history, and ancient remains are ing. Again, Andalucía has a vast array continually being uncovered during of options which are beneficial for building words, shedding more light body and soul and wouldn’t mean tra- on its past. velling far from home. The province is very varied, with The lovely climate, the pure moun- spectacular beaches and the rugged tain air or refreshing sea breeze mean Sierra de Cadiz mountainous area to that taking care of oneself is never a Los Infiernos, Loja, Granada. :: SUR the north, with tiny tucked-away vi- 8
llages amid terrain whch was once fre- quented by bandits. Some of Spain’s greatest wines are made here, and it is also famous for its seafood. It feels as if Cordoba - the city, at least - needs no introduction. The ca- pital of the caliphate and centre of learning in Moorish times, its past glo- ries are still there to appreciate in the form of the Mosque-Cathedral and the ruins of Medina Azahara, not far away. The province , which is inland, pri- des itself on its wine production, which it insists is equal to that of the more famous Jerez wines, and its olive oil. It is also known for colourful cera- mics, and its landscapes range from flat plains to beautiful mountains scattered with little white villages. El Playazo becah in Almeria province. :: SUR Granada, with which Cordoba sha- res a boundary, is stunning. The city is coast. The city was until quite re- home to the Alhambra palace and Ge- cently less well-known, but in the neralife gardens, the atmospheric past few years it has become particu- gypsy quarters of Albaicín and Sacro- larly popular for city breaks, mainly monte, and it is a treasure house of because of its culture. It has over 30 historical buildings and monuments. museums, including the Picasso Mu- This is a province of high moun- seum, the only branch of the Pompi- tains, the Sierra Nevada national and dou Centre outside France and the natural parks, deep valleys, small vi- Russian State Museum of St Peters- llages and lovely coastal resorts. A burg, among many others. feast for the eyes and the senses, in Last, but definitely not least, we fact. have Seville, the seat of the Andalu- Huelva could probably claim to be sian government, famous for its cathe- the least-known province of Andalu- dral, its Holy Week processions, the cía. North of Cadiz and bordering Se- Guadalquivir river, traditional gypsy ville and Portugal, it has absolutely districts and flamenco. The towns in spectacular Atlantic beaches and close the province tend to be forgotten, but connections with Christopher Colum- some, such as Carmona, are real trea- bus, of which it is very proud. The ca- sures. Seville’s beauty lies in its places pital, Huelva city, has a bustling but and its people; the landscape is flat, unpretentious port and is interesting and the province becomes extremely to visit, and is also very traditional as hot in summer. few international tourists go there. The province is known for its sea- A place that others envy food but also for the world-famous Golf on the Costa del Sol, Malaga. :: EFE Some people have decided to get to acorn-fed jabugo ham, from the pigs know a different part of Andalucía this which roam freely in the meadows cellent traditional food. The capital is year, while others prefer to stay at and mountains of the Sierra Alacena. hilly, historic and atmospheric, home but there is still no lack of On the coast is the Doñana National crowned by a castle and with a magni- things to do and enjoy. Apart from the Park, which is home to many protec- ficent cathedral. Ideal for exploring on attractions mentioned here, which are ted species of wildlife. foot. only a few of many, most councils or- The province of Jaén couldn’t be Malaga province is synonymous ganise events to entertain their resi- more of a contrast. It boasts a sea of with tourism. Everyone has heard of dents, such as open air film scree- olive groves, the World Heritage Site it, and its facilities, its beaches, its nings, theatre shows and concerts. of Úbeda and Baeza, the stunning Ca- nightlife, its golf, its sport. Few are Wherever you are, whatever you do, if zorla natural park and is a magical aware that it also has beautiful coun- you’re in Andalucía you know that combination of history, nature and ex- tryside only a short drive from the others all over the world are envious. 9
Holidaying without reservations Rural peace and quiet at Almohalla 51. :: SUR Southern Spain’s hospitality pros have Although the emphasis will remain on the fundamental foundation of hos- been working hard so guests can enjoy pitality (a warm, welcoming environ- ment and personalised guest experi- summer in confidence ences), many familiar aspects of a hotel stay may well feel like a whole new ex- perience this year. International borders in have created new systems to maximise SUR in English talks to four different Europe are finally opening, hygiene, food security and safety. properties - from inland, rural Malaga province to the glamour of Marbella - to and the south of Spain is Keeping the magic see how they are creating healthy, unshuttering hotels and Yet there lies the challenge for hoteliers happy hotels. - the means to effectively implement resorts and welcoming new hygiene and social distancing pro- Hotel innovations valued guests tocols, while also maintaining the es- For example, check-in and room access ANDREW FORBES sence of their properties, the unique ap- are set to be more streamlined, guest- peal and allure of their hotels. After all, friendly, and increasingly ‘contactless’ that’s why guests have made their reser- thanks to pre-arrival online check-in vations. As holidaymakers, we all want and digital smartphone room keys. to feel pampered and relaxed in our ho- Use of technology is also extending to Visitors to Southern Spain will discover tel, not nervous in a clinical environ- dining, with the use of digital menus, something new this summer; an ment. which when creatively executed, can evolved approach to hospitality that re- So unsurprisingly, hospitality profes- offer the potential for compelling guest flects the new normality of health and sionals are taking inspiration from the experiences that complement and en- safety measures designed to reduce the changes demanded by these compre- hance classic hospitality. Hotel restau- risk of Covid-19 contagion. Hotels and hensive protocols to redesign and re- rants are changing too, with more spa- guesthouses, in their desire to create magine the overall hotel experience, for cious alfresco dining; and more person- high levels of consumer confidence, the better. alised in-room meals, like in-room 10
ACCOMMODATION Take Adapting to new circumstances. Hospitality professionals are taking inspiration from note the changes demanded by these comprehensive protocols to redesign and reimagine the overall hotel experience, for the better. ANDREW FORBES breakfasts and picnics, private dining on Luxury at the Marbella Club the terrace or balcony, and enhanced Beach Club. :: SUR room service menus that will typically be priced as the same as the restaurant, with free delivery. Luxury and wellness Marbella Club Leading hotelier, Julián Cabanillas, Gen- eral Manager at the iconic Marbella Club, explains, “Hotels have been adapt- ing to new health and safety protocols continuously in the last decades. It will be more challenging to be able to pro- vide the warm and familiar service we are famous for while adapting to new social norms. It will be a change of pace for the Marbella Club, but we feel that creating safe havens, full of small yet significantly thoughtful details, we’ll ensure our guests continue to feel at home with us.” Marbella Club is undoubtedly one of the flagships of Andalucía’s upscale hos- pitality. It’s the kind of destination that evokes an almost magical ambiance. It is where the beauty and charm of a time- less seaside Andalusian village blends with the latest trends in wellness, gas- or suites, with no tray fee. So, guests can whole new category of 5-star hotel. tronomy and hospitality. indulge in signature cuisine when and Moored adjacent to Gibraltar’s stylish So, it is here that one can see many of where they want it, with all the ex- Ocean Village, Sunborn Gibraltar is the innovations that are driving the fu- pected style and finesse of Marbella keeping its focus well and truly on per- ture of Spanish luxury hospitality. An Club. sonal service for guests, together with approach that combines rigorous health Wellness has always been an integral new innovations in dining and wellness. and safety procedures (from employee element of the Marbella Club, and it’s Marc Skvorc, the yacht hotel’s Chief and guest health screening, extensive always being enhanced as guests desire Operating Officer explains, “As a part of cleaning and sanitising protocols, to and demand to boost their wellbeing our ‘restart the magic’ movement, I am contactless experiences), with new and immune system while on holiday. excited to say that we will be offering ways to offer the signature Marbella Marbella Club provides its wellness several new options for those returning Club style that guests have come to love menus in-room and is also bringing its to the hotel such as pre-check-in online, over the property’s illustrious 65-year award-winning spa to the guest room, special ‘picnic’ baskets and enhanced history. with treatments, and therapies offered room service. Among my favourite in- Marbella Club has taken advantage of in the private villas and suites. novations is our new Food and Beverage the fact that is it on a spacious beach and Julián Cabanillas concludes, “We are offering, now all on the top (7th-floor) surrounded by acres of private gardens doing everything possible to come back deck. Our chef has created a new menu to make social distancing a positive ele- stronger than before.” combining the best sellers from both ment in the guest experience. Rather our restaurants that can be enjoyed in a than decrease capacity, it has imagina- Stylish and shipshape completely open air setting with sweep- tively created more areas for dining, en- Sunborn Gibraltar ing views of the Bay and Rock of Gibral- joying a drink and relaxing - from the Just across the frontier, in Gibraltar, one tar. We know this is uncharted territory stylish MC Beach restaurant to garden finds another unique, luxury hotel - the for us all, but let’s take some time to re- terraces. In addition, room service has sparkling yacht, Sunborn Gibraltar. lax with loved ones, friends and family been reimagined, making it a compel- Combining the glamour of an ocean and together create a luxury experience ling alternative to the restaurants. A liner, the style of a super-yacht and the on the Sunborn Yacht Hotel along the comprehensive selection of dishes from energy of an upscale casino with the way.” across the resort’s restaurants can be de- gastronomy and luxury accommodation Sunborn is making the most of its livered directly to guest’s private villas, of a fine hotel, Sunborn has created a privileged location on the water, and 11
spoilt countryside, national parks, and protected nature reserves in Southern Spain. Almohalla 51 is a boutique guest house in the centre of the traditional white hill- top town of Archidona, north of Malaga. It has been created by Myles and David, who left London careers in travel and marketing, to move to Spain and create a guest house which reflected their love of Privacy aboard the Sunborn Gibraltar. :: SUR good service and beautiful places to stay. Taking two derelict townhouses they established a stylish retreat that epito- welcoming guests back with promo- mises the charm of a traditional Andalu- tions including, as Marc explains, “spe- sian town. cial Sunset Happy Hour vouchers, Myles and David hope that their ap- where, upon redemption, guests will re- proach to rural hospitality will be particu- ceive double the value during the sun- larly sought-after in this new era of social- setting hours”. distanced travel, where rural isolation can Behind the scenes the team will be be balanced with the attractions of a small working hard to maintain high levels of market town. David says, “Escaping to the health security. Marc continues, “At relative calm of Archidona, away from the Sunborn, we recognise that people want crowds, means an escape to cleaner air, to be reassured that the highest safety more space, but still experiencing a warm measures are in place. It is with this in and authentic Andalusian welcome.” mind that Sunborn has rigorously en- Of course, changes have had to be made hanced its already high level of cleanli- at the guesthouse to comply with new ness and hygiene in all areas of the hotel norms in social distancing and hygiene, following guidelines in accordance with Palladium Hotel, Benalmádena. :: SUR yet the focus remains on showcasing in- the World Health Organisation.” land Andalucía: hiking routes in the wild countryside; the regional cuisine of the lo- Family fun Hygiene and food safety have always cal bars and restaurants, which are well Palladium Hotel been priorities in Palladium Hotels and prepared for distanced dining on open ter- Of course, southern Spain is also all about now the company has partnered with races; and the heritage of the area. family holidays, and the Palladium Hotel SGS, a leading entity for the certification So, when holidaying in Andalucía, you Costa del Sol, the first Palladium property and implementation of safety and wel- can forget any reservations you might on the Spanish mainland, is at the fore- fare protocols, to develop further meas- have, and instead enjoy a safe and wel- front of the contemporary interpretation ures that are externally audited. coming summer season. of the 21st century family all-inclusive “We are a company that is wholeheart- holiday. edly dedicated to customer enjoyment Set on a bay, on the Benalmádena without ever compromising on safety. In INFORMATION coast, the Palladium Hotel Costa del Sol is 2020, we feel that customers will be opening for its second season, welcoming even more in need of a holiday after a couples and families who are attracted by particularly challenging period and many Marbella Club: https://www.mar- the contemporary aesthetic of the guest personal sacrifices. We look forward to bellaclub.com/en/ rooms, seven bars and restaurants, a spec- welcoming our guests with the same tacular rooftop, as well as a spa and pools. warm hospitality which our brand is Sunborn Yacht Hotel: Palladium Hotels is an international known for.” https://www.sunborngibraltar.com/ business, with decades of experience in tourism. So, despite 2020 being a chal- Rural getaway Palladium Hotel Costa del Sol: lenging year for the hotel sector, they Almohalla 51 https://www.palladiumhotel- confirm, “Palladium Hotels has been If lockdown has given you a renewed en- group.com/en/hotels/espana/mala- quick to adapt. We have already launched thusiasm for the quiet life, then you are ga/palladium-hotel-costa-del-sol a range of new initiatives and safety pro- probably not alone. This year rural Anda- tocols to ensure the wellbeing of our staff lucía will undoubtedly be more popular Almohalla 51: https://www.almo- and guests and make sure that visitors than ever, offering social distancing by halla51.com/ can leave their worries at home.” default, thanks to the abundance of un- 12
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Dunes and cliffs hide more sheltered beaches far from the crowded seafront promenades JAVIER ALMELLONES From steep cliffs to soft dunes, with large and comfortable beaches in-be- tween. The coastline in Malaga province is varied; it shows many different faces along its more than 160 kilometre length between Nerja and Manilva. Every summer the Costa del Sol, with its two very different parts, east and west, with Malaga city in the middle, is one of the most popular destinations for tourists. This is especially so for those who want beaches and coves which are unusual and different, but above all quiet, even though this may mean they are less easy to access. Lovers of quiet beaches will know that the ones they like the best are the hardest to get to. The part of the coast- line farthest east of Malaga city is pro- tected as a natural beauty spot, the Acantilados de Maro (Maro cliffs). This protected area includes, for example, The beach at Cabopino, alongside the Artola dunes. :: SUR the Cala de la Doncella, which is idyllic and very well preserved, although to reach it you will need to go on foot or Quiet beaches even by kayak from the adjacent beaches. It is only small, and is situated between what is known as the Peñón del Fraile and Punta Caleta. Also in Nerja, but more accessible and and coves to better-known, is the Playa del Cañuelo, another jewel of the Acantilados de Maro area. Mind you, in peak season you cannot use your own vehicle to get escape to there. You either have to walk or use a shuttle bus which runs continually be- tween the car park and the beach. This is a way of preserving the beaches in this beauty spot. The Playa del Cañuelo is relatively large and is similar to many others in this area, in that the sea water Even today, it is possible to find small is crystal-clear and the beach is of sand and stones. Mediterranean paradises along the Further west, but still within the same area, is the Playa del Carabeíllo otherwise busy Costa del Sol Chico, which is very close to the famous and busy Burriana beach. It is a haven of peace for anyone who wants to enjoy a 14
BY THE SEA Carabeíllo Chico beach near Nerja. :: E. C. quiet day on the sand. The access In Malaga city, but on the east- is quite difficult and is from the ern side, is the Playa de Peñón del Burriana beach itself. It is a very Cuervo, which is well-known to small cove, surrounded by large rocks people in the province and else- which provide a certain privacy. where. Lying between El Palo and La In neighbouring Torrox, the Playa de Araña, this cove has a large rock right on Mazagarrobo, otherwise known as Tajo the shore. It isn’t always a haven of de la Virgen, is also popular. The latter tranquility, but it’s worth going on a name comes from a rock which, accord- weekday or outside peak season to en- ing to legend, is where the Virgen de las naturist campsite, just a short distance joy its ecosystem. In fact, in its waters Nieves (the patron saint of Torrox) once away from the beach. It should be you can see a plant which is in danger of appeared, to save some fishermen from noted, however, that not all the beach at extinction, the ‘siempreviva the village during a storm. Almayate is nudist. People are only al- malagueña’. The beach is just over one kilometre lowed to strip off in the stretch in the On the western side of the Costa del long and about 20 metres wide. Another Bajamar area, which is signposted as Sol, despite being better-known, there attraction of this cove is that its clear such. are some quieter beaches such as La Bu- waters are ideal for activities such as Meanwhile, Rincón de la Victoria has tibamba. This is in La Cala de Mijas, with snorkelling and diving. a particularly comfortable beach for its historical watchtower, the Torreón, On the coast at Vélez-Malaga there people who are looking for something which has now been converted into an are also several beaches to choose from. different, at Torre de Benagalbón. For interesting museum. Butibamba is a One of the coast’s few naturist beaches many, its charm is that there is no sea- quiet cove with fine sand and some can be found in Almayate, just one kilo- front promenade so it is quieter than more rugged areas. As well as spending a metre from Torre del Mar. It also has a other beaches in the same municipality. day on the beach, a walk along part of 15
BY THE SEA the new Coastal Path is also enjoyable. Further to the west is Cabopino beach, in Marbella. There, you can visit one of the geological treasures of the Mediterranean coast of Andalucía. This strip of coast is beside the natural monu- ment of the Dunas de Artola, a dune sys- tem which can be explored along wooden walkways. This beach, which also has a nudist area, is beside Cabopino marina, where there is a good selection of restaurants. Another interesting option in Mar- bella is Realejo, a small cove close to Los Monteros beach, which is one of those surprisingly peaceful corners of the The Mazagarrobo beach, in Torrox. :: J. A. western Costa del Sol. The fact that it is between two beaches which are very busy in high season, and its natural sur- roundings, make this one of the most interesting coves for those looking for peace and quiet in the summer. In neighbouring Estepona there is also plenty of choice, and one of the best is the beach at Bahía Dorada. The sea is crystal clear here, so it is a good place to take your goggles and snorkel and enjoy the marine fauna and flora. This beach is very close to the one called La Galera, in other words about eight kilometres west of Estepona town centre. The municipality of Casares has two kilometres of coastline, and its most fa- mous beach is Playa Ancha, which is ac- The Peñón del Cuervo beach near Malaga city. :: ÑITO SALAS tually in three different parts. One is the stretch beside the Torre de la Sal, also known as Salto de la Mora, a lovely watchtower which was part of a castle at one time. Next to this is Playa Chica, which goes as far as the Arroyo de la Parrilla stream. The third part, which is actually called Playa Ancha, is on the boundary with Manilva. This area has clear sea water, fine sand and some rugged areas, with rocks stretching out into the Mediterranean. It is a very unusual combination. Apart from the built-up areas, Manilva’s coastline is one of the most popular for those looking for something a bit different. As well as the beach called Chullera, there is also the envi- ronmentally valuable Playas de Manilva reserve, a small coastal paradise at the point at which the territory of Malaga comes to an end and that of the Campo de Gibraltar begins. A large part of the coast at Manilva is still very natural. :: J. A. 16
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DIVERSITY Equestrian School is now known all over the world. As a Foundation, it represents the iden- tity of equestrian art in Andalucía, espe- cially through the show ‘Como bailan los caballos andaluces’(’How the Andalusian horses dance’) which is a type of choreo- graphed equestrian ballet with dressage and carriage driving, quintessential Span- ish music and 18th century costumes. In the ‘doma vaquera’ section, the horseman rides his horse around the arena holding the reins in just one hand, trotting at first and then galloping, chang- ing the rhythm and performing pirou- ettes. Doma vaquera is similar to the style used by American cowboys herding cattle in wide open spaces, and although it is based on classical dressage it is much faster and dramatic. To demonstrate classical dressage tech- niques, the horses carry out exercises to pieces of classical music, with choreogra- phy titled The Colts, Airs on Horseback, A show at the Royal Andalusian Ecuestrian School in Jerez. Pas de Deux, Passage and Piaffe, Domino on Horseback, Airs above the ground and Fantasy, among others. The horses of The show also includes examples of Work In Hand, where the horse obeys its rider even when he or she is not in the saddle, carrying out classical Haute École Andalucía dressage exercises such as levades, capri- oles, courbettes, piaffe, Spanish walk and long reins. It is also possible to visit other parts of the school, and sometimes to watch some of the students training. For anyone wanting to understand the You only have to mention the name of equestrian culture of Andalucía, a visit to the School should not be missed. Com- this region, and the pulses of horse bine it with Jerez’s flamenco offering for the unique essence of Andalucía. lovers will start to beat faster Reales Caballerizas de Córdoba Anyone in the ancient and spectacular From spectacular equestrian lucía can both admire the animals at spe- city of Cordoba can also experience the schools to wild ponies, cial events or even enjoy the experience unrivalled beauty of Andalusian horses of riding along spectacular beaches or and learn about the connection between Andalucía’s love affair with its through glorious countryside. local history and its equestrian traditions ‘caballos’ goes back a long way. at the ‘Reales Caballerizas de Cordoba’. DEBBIE BARTLETT Equestrian art These Royal Stables, which were built The Royal Andalusian School of Eques- in the 16th century, are in the centre of trian Art is somewhere that will defi- Cordoba, beside the Alcazaba, the palace- The name Andalucía conjures up many nitely set the pulses of horse-lovers rac- fortress of the Christian Monarchs. images, and one is that of beautiful Anda- ing. It is in Jerez de la Frontera, in Cadiz The shows performed here never fail to lusian horses, an important part of local province, the town which is famous for impress. They are a perfect combination culture and history. Horse-lovers in Anda- its sherry and its flamenco, and the of classical and Andalusian horsemanship, 18
The unique beach horseracing in Sanlúcar de Barrameda (Cadiz) will go ahead on three days this August. including the ‘doma vaquera’ or western- the oldest, having taken place for around style dressage, mentioned above. 500 years. The horses are brought first to the village of El Rocío, where the famous International polo in Sotogrande pilgrimage takes place every spring, and Horses can also be seen in action in the then on to Almonte, where they are polo tournaments that are becoming tra- cleaned, re-shod and blessed by a priest. ditional in the luxury resort of Soto- Some are then sold, and the rest are re- grande, in San Roque, Cadiz province. turned to their idyllic life in the wild. Every August thousands flock to the in- ternational competitions at the Santa Circuito del Sol María Polo Club. Most of the best players This ‘Sunshine Tour’ is another very in the world have competed here at some popular event, this time in the beautiful time. While competitions planned earlier small town of Vejer de la Frontera in this year were cancelled due to the coro- Cadiz province. It is an international navirus pandemic, action returns to the show jumping competition which takes Sotogrande club this summer. place over a six-week period in February and March each year. The venue at De- Horse races on the beach hesa de Montenmedio is huge, covering For a very different experience, head to more than 500 hectares with space for the pretty town of Sanlúcar de Barra- 2,000 horses, and the facilities are the meda, in Cádiz province, in August. most spectacular in Europe. It is close to There, you can sit in a swimsuit on the the stunning beaches of Zahara de los golden sand in the evening sun, amid a Atunes, Barbate, Caños de Meca and Conil festive atmosphere, sipping the local Riding near Grazalema, above, and de la Frontera, which are practically de- ‘manzanilla’ dry sherry and watching grazing on the Doñana marshes. serted at that time of year, and close to horses go thundering past at top speed. protected countryside. These races are world famous, and have been taking place since 1845. For Andalucía on horseback this 175th anniversary, despite the coro- Anyone who loves riding can enjoy some navirus pandemic, the races will go ahead magical experiences on horseback any- but just on three days, 18, 21 and 28 where in Andalucía, and there are nu- August. merous official ‘Andalucía a Caballo’ equestrian routes. From day excursions La Saca de Yeguas, Almonte to full holidays, along unspoiled beaches, Unfortunately, the Saca de Yeguas which through the mountains or deep in pro- normally takes place on 26 June had to be tected countryside, there is something cancelled this year because of the corona- for everybody and numerous companies virus pandemic, so next year’s event will are licensed to act as organisers and be awaited with eager anticipation. It guides. takes place in Almonte, in Huelva prov- And let us not forget that horses are an ince, in the emblematic countryside of important part of life for many Andalusi- the Doñana marshes, where the horses ans. Even without the chance to enjoy any live wild all year round. of the above, lovers of these fine animals This is considered the most impressive will always find them - and their proud equine event in Spain, and is also one of riders - at fairs, in parades, and at shows. 19
BY THE SEA Travel secrets of the Costa de la Luz Enjoy wild nature, gourmet cuisine and broad beaches on Andalucía’s Atlantic Coast of Light ANDREW FORBES of Andalucia. Don’t expect the typical Spanish coastal sprawl; no, this is a special It’s no mystery that I’m passionate about place where you can change the pace of Andalucía. I sometimes I feel like an un- your holiday. So, take it easy. Browse the official ambassador to be honest, such is surf shacks near Tarifa; enjoy a cold beer my enthusiasm for southern Spain, its on the weatherworn deck of a beach bar; nature, cuisine, history, and people. So, climb the sweeping sand dunes and be in- when I was invited to contribute to the toxicated by the freshness of the pine and SUR in English Summer’s Here maga- sea-scented air. zine, I knew I wanted to write about one of my favourite parts of the south - the Authentic lodging Costa de la Luz. I’m going to let you into a secret - Los This sparkling Atlantic coast of light, Caños de Meca. This small beach commu- that runs all the way from Huelva’s Río nity is a favourite with Spaniards. Once Guadiana down to the evocative port you pass the Strait of Gibraltar and reach town of Tarifa on Cadiz’s spectacular the Atlantic coast of Andalucía, you will coast is home to many of Spain’s best not want to leave. beaches. That’s why the Costa de la Luz So, if you’re looking for an authentic is my go-to place to chill and unwind. A place to stay, then Hotel Madreselva is it. place of wild nature, virgin beaches and In summer, the village of Los Caños de a laid-back surfer vibe that makes me Meca pulsates with life, a vibrant com- feel younger and freer. munity of locals and visitors who are So here I want to share a few secrets drawn to the ocean and beaches. Madre- of this Atlantic shoreline that runs along selva will be your calming oasis. Cadiz province, so you too can create un- The hotel is an intimate place. Built in forgettable holiday memories. a hacienda style, the comfortable rooms are found around a central, scented Road trip El Cuartel del Mar. :: FORBES courtyard patio filled with Mediterra- If you don’t have a car you’ll need to rent nean and sub-tropical plants. Each guest one to explore this windswept yet magi- ‘Cadizfornia’, a hip, cool yet open and room has a small private furnished ter- cal coast. The seaside roads meander friendly place for lovers of the outdoors. race, and a simple en suite bathroom through laidback villages and small tuna Maybe choose a vintage campervan or with shower and tub, and amenities fishing ports. Water sport aficionados rugged 4x4 for your Coast of Light road made with organic citrus essential oils. love the area, as the wind is channelled by trip. After all, you’ll be immersed in splen- Although you’ll probably head straight the proximity of the African and Euro- did isolation among remote nature, from to the beaches just across the street, pean continents, making it perfect for dense Atlantic and Mediterranean pine there is also a private pool in a walled kite surfing. Look out across the water forests, to sweeping beaches of massive patio if you want to find a more private from Tarifa towards Morocco and the ho- slow-moving dunes and crashing waves. place to sunbathe. rizon is often cluttered with colourful My first piece of advice is to take your When it comes to beaches you can kites of surfers who leap up into the air. time, allow for diversions, stops and un- take you pick; family, nudist, gay - it’s an Unsurprisingly it’s been christened expected discoveries. This is the wild west open and inclusive culture in Los Caños 20
The Costa de la Luz, where the Atlantic reaches Andalucía. :: FORBES de Meca - capturing the Ángel León’s remarkable three-Michelin- timeless appeal of an Andalu- star restaurant which showcases his sian summer. unique Cuisine of the Sea. Hotel Madreselva is man- Also, in nearby Jerez de la Frontera, aged by the friendly people Juan Luis Fernández, or JuanLu, has cre- who created La Casa de La ated his Lú, Cocina y Alma restaurant Califa, on the central plaza of which has been recognised with a Mich- the charming, nearby hilltop elin star, for his creative fusion of French town of Vejer de la Frontera. and Andalusian cuisine. You’ll be made to feel wel- More than any ingredient, it is proba- come and at home. bly the wild red tuna of the Costa de la If you’re enjoying a road Luz that defines the gastronomy here. trip along the coast, you’ll Caught during the almadraba season, us- appreciate the free, off-road ing sustainable techniques that date back hotel parking too; and if you to the Phoenicians, these magnificent love the sundowners at the animals inspire remarkably creative local beach terrace bars, don’t dishes. The port town of Barbate is where worry if you get back late, as there’s 24- Carabineros prawns at El Cuartel. :: FORBES most the of tuna are landed and it is here hour reception. one finds El Campero restaurant. Depend- Gastronomy ing on your mood, Cadiz province has emerged as a culinary and your budget, you destination, thanks to the exceptional can choose to dine on quality of local produce from the sea and an exquisite tasting land. Although far from being the richest menu in the formal part of Andalucía, this region has a dining room, or head wealth of fish, seafood, beef, and produce to the bar and try - and wines of course, including Vinos de some of the creative Jerez, or sherry, as they are better known. tapas of the day. Enjoy a chilled Manzanilla sherry wine with a tapa of fresh Atlantic prawns and Beachside bliss believe me, your notion of sherry will be This is where I shall changed for ever. share another secret Little wonder the Costa de la Luz has with you. For some- been the secret of success for chefs here. thing completely new, Aponiente, in El Puerto de Santa María, is Hotel Madreselva. :: FORBES then head to Chiclana 21
BY THE SEA de la Frontera. This unpretentious, historic colleague Chef Mikel Badiola bring re- and also the scarlet Atlantic carabineros seaside town over looks magnificent nowned international expertise and crea- prawns. Cadiz also has excellent fruit and beaches. It’s home to one of the coast’s tivity to Andalucía’s Atlantic shores. vegetables like plump tomatoes and arti- newest restaurants, El Cuartel del Mar, To make the most of the setting, I rec- chokes which feature in many dishes. Try boasting a spectacular setting beside an ommend starting your meal with a cock- the tasty ‘tortillitas de camarones’ ancient lookout tower, on the vast Playa tail in the patio. Mixologist Luca Anastasio (shrimp fritters) for a quick snack as you de la Barrosa. creates original and beautiful drinks - read the menu, or a place of gourmet Here hip urban style converges with the many of which can be prepared as low al- cured ham. If you are not tempted by the simplicity and authenticity of the Costa cohol drinks if you want something light fish, then there are the finest beef steaks del la Luz. It’s the most unforgettable and refreshing. from Scotland and Spain, prepared on the place to eat. Design, art, music, and cuisine At El Cuartel del Mar, the ocean is of wood-burning grill. collide to create a modern interpretation course the inspiration, and the local pro- The curated wine list inevitably includes of the Cadiz beach lifestyle. A once-aban- duce the protagonists in the restaurant’s vinos de Jerez. Let the wine waiter guide doned Civil Guard HQ has been reimag- menu. Expect exquisite fish and seafood, you to discover some superb, dry white ined as a super-stylish ocean view restau- including the local wild red tuna, wonder- sherries that perfectly complement the rant where Chef Manuel Berganza and his ful rice dishes with local white shrimps dishes. If you love discovering new things, then try one of the local Chiclana wines. Naturally inspiring It’s not just the beaches and the food that will make you fall in love with this corner of Spain. Here are protected natural parks of pine forest and mountains too. It’s a joy to explore. For a real insider perspective, my secret is to hike with a local guide. Carlos Miburn has established Explore La Tierra, a private tour and hiking company. A speciality is nature hikes; Carlos shares insights into the rich biodiversity of the region. As you walk trails that hug the coast and explore the woodlands, you learn the secrets of the Mediterranean and Atlantic pine forests, including the edible and medicinal plants that can be La Breña Natural Park on the Costa de la Luz. :: FORBES found and their traditional uses. What’s more, you’ll enjoy an unforgettable time out in the great outdoors. So, here’s to you discovering some of your very own secrets of the Costa de la Luz - a place of authenticity; fab beaches; genuine hospitality; splendid cuisine; and calming nature. INFORMATION Hotel Madreselva: https://www.califavejer.com/ho- tels/hotel-madreselva El Cuartel del Mar: https://elcuar- teldelmar.com/ Explore La Tierra: https://explore- latierra.com/en/ Los Caños de Meca. :: FORBES 22
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DIVERSITY Culture, history and fun on the Costa Tropical Granada’s coastal towns and villages have plenty to offer tourists this year A view of La Herradura’s bay looking west With the annual Jazz on the town has lots to offer visitors looking minibus service is in operation seven Costa festival confirmed, as well to learn more about the area. days a week until 10 September and a All three places are open from Mon- return ticket costs two euros. There is other cultural events and day to Saturday from 10am to 1pm and ample parking at the top of the cliff, watersports on offer, there is then from 5 to 7.30pm. This year the from where the minibus service runs town hall has introduced QR codes to approximately every 15 to 20 minutes. every reason to visit Almuñécar, access information about all three This picturesque beach is nestled in La Herradura and Salobreña sites via smartphones. between the cliffs of Cerro Gordo, JENNIE RHODES which sits between La Herradura in La Herradura and Cantarriján Granada province and the tiny coastal La Herradura beach and the protected hamlet of Maro in Malaga. cliffs of Punta de la Mona and Cerro It’s largely business as usual this year Gordo are great options for water- Salobreña on the beautiful Costa Tropical, with sports such as diving, snorkelling, The pretty town of Salobreña, a tradi- the annual Jazz on the Costa festival, paddle surfing and kayaking as well as tional whitewashed Andalusian vil- nights at the castle festival in La Her- just cooling off with a dip in the sea. lage, is perched high up on a hill and radura and Salobreña’s Tendencias fes- Tourist information offices in Al- offers views of both the Sierra Nevada tival all going ahead throughout July muñécar and La Herradura are provid- to the north and Mediterranean sea to and August. ing beach kits to establish the four- the south. With its narrow winding Other attractions such as the castle metre squared social distancing areas. streets and sea breezes it’s a great and museums are also open to visitors The Cantarriján naturist beach place to explore in the heat of the and of course the beaches of La Her- summer. radura and Cantarriján are the ideal lo- With extra lifeguards on hand this cations to cool down, or get active USEFUL WEBSITES year to province beach-goers with with watersports such as snorkelling health and safety information and or paddle surf, while enjoying Granada www.almunecar.es plenty of cultural, historic and fun op- province’s stunning coastline. tions to choose from, a trip to the www.granadajazz.es Costa Tropical this summer is a must Culture, history and fun for anyone in the area. With the majority of its museums and www.ticketmaster.es historical sites open, including the A lively cultural scene San Miguel castle, Cueva de Siete Pala- www.granadaescultura.com As well as being a great outdoor alter- cios archaelogical museum and Claves native to the town’s beaches, Almuñé- de Almuñécar museum, the seaside car’s Majuelo park will, as it does 24
towards the protected Cerro Gordo cliffs. :: SUR San Miguel castle. :: SUR every year, play host to a number of festival on Saturday 25 will be Malaga from 6 to 9 August in the castle gardens. cultural events during the summer. singer-songwriter Pepa Niebla, who’ll Confirmations include flamenco singer- Perhaps the town’s most popular be presenting her new album Renais- songwriter Miguel Poveda on 8 August. summer festival is Jazz on the Costa, sance, and Andrea Motis, another Salobreña’s Festival de Tendencias, which now in its thirty-third year, great star of Spanish jazz music. now in its twenty ninth year, will take will take place from 22 to 25 July and The park will also be hosting a series place from 5 to 7 August in the Audito- feature some of Spain’s most talented of other concerts from Cuban to Fla- rio Villa de Salobreña. jazz musicians. menco and orchestral music through- For a break from the culture and his- Opening the festival on Wednesday out the summer. tory, the ideal way to cool down and 22 July will be the Costa Jazz Quartet, The Cultureando festival, which have fun on the Costa Tropical is a day along with the composer and winner runs on Friday and Saturday evenings at Almuñécar’s Aqua-Tropic water park. of Spanish Goya entertainment award, throughout July, is a series of free con- Located virtually on the beach and Chicuelo, who will be accompanied by certs and other events that will take overlooking the Mediterranean, it pianist Marco Mezquida. place on the streets and squares of Al- opened for the summer season at the Lucía Rey, Chano Domínguez and muñécar. end of June. The salt water attractions Javier Colina will also be performing La Herradura’s Noches en el Castillo include the Zig Zag and Kamikaze on different nights and closing the (nights in the castle) festival will run slides as well as the Black Hole. 25
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