Summer s' here here - Surinenglish

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Summer s' here here - Surinenglish
Summer’s
                 The magazine
             The magazine      forholiday
                          for the  the holiday season
                                          season      in southern
                                                 in southern SpainSpain
                                                                   / July/ 2020
                                                                           July 2019

here here

                                                              Stay safe in
                                                               Andalucía

in English

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Summer s' here here - Surinenglish
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Summer s' here here - Surinenglish
WHAT’S INSIDE

Cover photo: Frigiliana, one of the
Costa del Sol’s prettiest white villa-
ges, part of the Axarquía area east
of Malaga.

                                                                                                                                :: SUR

SUR IN ENGLISH
SUMMER SPECIAL

Director General: Antonio González
                                          A different summer
Editor-in -Chief: Manuel Castillo
Publications Director: Pedro Luis
                                          RACHEL HAYNES                                     We are forever telling others about
Gómez
                                                                                         how wonderful the region of Andalucía is,
                                          In any normal year on the Costa del Sol, by    with kilometre on kilometre of beautiful
Editor: Rachel Haynes
                                          now, mid-July, the hotels would be full, the   beaches, breathtaking mountain scenery
Assistant editor: Daryl Finch             beaches packed and business booming for        and towns and cities oozing with culture.
                                          bars, restaurants and the many other serv-     But how much have we actually explored
Commercial Director: Jorge Artero         ices that thrive on the tourism industry.      ourselves?
Advertising Manager: Emma Vera               This year, 2020, however, will be re-          How often do we move from our own
Art Director: Francisco Ruano             membered as the year of coronavirus and        local beaches to find others in different
                                          this season is perhaps already being re-       provinces from our own?
Contributors to this magazine:            ferred to as Covid summer.                        Even though we’ve made the Costa del
Debbie Bartlett, Ash Bolton, Jennie          While the situation could change as         Sol our home, how about visiting Anda-
Rhodes, Tony Bryant, Andrew Forbes,       the season progresses, so far this year the    lucía’s Atlantic coastline for a change? Or
Javier Almellones                         absence of tourists from overseas has left     the beautiful beaches of Almeria backed
                                          huge gaps, especially in areas with larger     up by Europe’s only desert?
Date: July 2020.                          concentrations of hotels and holiday              This magazine aims to provide plenty
                                          apartments.                                    of ideas to encourage residents to go out
                                             So who does that leave? With foreign        and discover more of the region they
                                          holiday plans cancelled or postponed, resi-    have made their home, or perhaps their
                                          dents in Spain are finding themselves look-    second home.
                                          ing more closely at their own country for         There’s no better time for a reminder of
                                          their summer holiday destinations.             not just the wide variety of beaches, but
                                             Tourists from the rest of Spain have al-    also the inland beauty and the cultural of-
Published by Prensa Malagueña S.A.
                                          ways made up a significant proportion of       fer of our towns and cities in the form of
www.surinenglish.com
                                          visitors to the Costa del Sol and this year    exhibitions and concerts.
Twitter: @SUR_English
                                          their business is vital for the industry.         Of course this Covid year will be differ-
Facebook: @surenglish
                                             But this Covid summer has also caused       ent; we’ll have to remember to wear masks
Advertising: evera@diariosur.es           people who already live in southern Spain,     wherever necessary and keep our distance
952649669                                 many of us originally from other coun-         from others, but that doesn’t have to stop
Editorial: surinenglish.su@diariosur.es   tries, to take a fresh look at our immediate   us from going out and enjoying this sum-
952649600                                 surroundings.                                  mer in Andalucía.

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Summer s' here here - Surinenglish
WHAT’S INSIDE

                                                                   Adapting to new times
                                                                   Accommodation in southern Spain has had to move fast
                                                                   to be able to offer visitors the peace of mind they need in
                                                                   case of Covid-19 concerns. As well as adhering
                                                                                                             heringg to health

                                                                                                              10
                                                                   and safety requirements, hotels are adapting ing to the ‘new
                                                                                                             pting
                                                                   normal’, offering services and activities that
                                                                                                               hatt guarantee
                                                                                                              th
                                                                   guests’ ability to enjoy themselves while  e keeping
                                                                                                                k eping a safe
                                                                   social distance.

A region with everything
With coronavirus messing with summer plans, there’s no
better time than now to rediscover the region of Anda-
lucía. Over the initial four pages of this magazine e we sum
                                                         su

                                                 6
up the delights of all eight provinces that make e up the re-
                                                           r
gion. Later - pages 18 and 54 - we take a look at how horses
                                                        hor
and gastronomy are just two of the many aspects  ctts that
merge to create the essence of the region.

                                 What to do
                                 While coronavirus has led
                                 to the cancellation of nu-
                                 merous large events, south-
                                 ern Spain still has a cultural
                                 agenda this summer. Festi-
                                              ca ed down
                                 vals have scaled   do       a
                                                          to al-

                                             62
                                 low space and nd meet capac-
                                              io
                                               ons, but there
                                 ity regulations,
                                             ennty of chances
                                 are still plenty
                                             ve
                                 to enjoy live e music.

Back in                          A view of                         Exploring by train
time                             the Rock
                                                                   Not having your own transport might limit visits to some
Go back to medieval              Gibraltar has a range of at-      of the more remote parts of Andalucía, however doing
times to learn the story of      tractions for people looking      without the stress of driving and parking is a great advan-
Bobastro, the city whose         for day-outt ideas. Hiking        tage. We discover how a large numberr of destinations can

          26                                 46                                                              38
little-known
          wn remains             around thee nature
                                                 ure reserve       be visited from the comfort of a train,
                                                                                                        n, exploring
                                                                                                               loring the stops
                                                                                                             ploring
stand not far
          f from the             for spectacular
                                             ular views, or
                                             ular                  on both the C2 local line from Malagaa to Álora
                                                                                                             Álora and the
world famous
         m us Caminito
         mous                    disappearing
                                            n down tunnels
                                            ng                     line from Malaga to Seville, which passes
                                                                                                        asses through
                                                                                                                hrough stun-
del Rey.                         are among them.
                                             t                     ning scenery to reach fascinating towns.
                                                                                                        wns.

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Summer s' here here - Surinenglish
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Summer s' here here - Surinenglish
An Andalusian
summer

                                                                                                               A paraglider over
                                                                                                           Matalascañas beach in
                                                                                                           Huelva province. :: SUR

If you’re in Andalucía, you know others                                                      This year, with the pandemic at the fo-
                                                                                         refront of everyone’s mind, the Andalu-
elsewhere in the world are envying you                                                   sian government has put strict measures
                                                                                         in place to ensure that beach-lovers can
                                                                                         enjoy themselves safely, with apps which
                                                                                         can be downloaded to show how many
This is a year like no other, due         plans on hold because of the coronavi-         people are on the beaches in real time,
to the coronavirus crisis, and            rus pandemic need not worry: they              maintaining social distancing, strict clea-
                                          have everything for a fantastic sum-           ning and disinfecting, and extra moni-
many people’s holiday plans               mer right here at home.                        tors to patrol and offer advice if necessa-
have had to be abandoned. But                 It is no surprise that Andalucía has be-   ry.
                                          come one of the most complete destina-            No matter where you are in this regi-
southern Spain can beat most              tions in the world. Its facilities, climate,   on, you will be within travelling distan-
other places hands-down                   excellent communications, range of ho-         ce of a beach. Andalucía is home to the
DEBBIE BARTLETT                           tels and friendly and hospitable people        Costa Almería in the east, the Costa Tro-
                                          have made it a firm favourite for holi-        pical in Granada province, the world-fa-
                                          days among visitors from abroad as well        mous Costa del Sol in Malaga, the quie-
                                          as those in other parts of Spain. So, what     ter Costa de la Luz in Cadiz and the con-
                                          is it that makes Andalucía so special?         tinuation of the Costa de la Luz in Huel-
                                                                                         va province. All very different, and all
The question has to be asked: what’s      Sun, sand and plenty of both                   very lovely.
not to like about Andalucía in the        For a start, as summer is here, let us not        For those who get bored after soa-
summer? This region in the south of       forget that Andalucía has over 800 kilo-       king up the sun on the beach for a few
the country is the largest in Spain and   metres of coastline, ranging from vast ex-     hours, however, then from Huelva in
is full of contrasts, so whether you      panses of unspoiled deep white sand to         the far west to Almería in the east,
live here or are on holiday, it has       tiny, rocky coves and urban beaches with       the coastal area of the region also has
everything you could possibly wish        every facility, especially for those with      numerous marinas, water sports, sea-
for. Anyone who has put their travel      children.                                      front promenades, golf courses, out-

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Summer s' here here - Surinenglish
DIVERSITY

door sports facilities, and restaurants     vir, dense Mediterranean woodlands,         dation and small hotels for those who
to suit all tastes and budgets.             for example the Natural Park of Cazor-      want to immerse themselves in natu-
                                            la, Segura and Las Villas in Jaén pro-      re. There are even companies speciali-
Catch up on some culture                    vince, and even volcanic deserts and        sing in activities for the youngest
Most of us in Andalucía have visited        stretches of coast which are comple-        members of the family.
some of its many historical attrac-         tely uninhabited, like the Cabo de
tions, but there are probably still quite   Gata area in Almería.                       Not forgetting golf
a few on our ‘I’d love to go there one         Andalucía is blessed because more        It would be almost unthinkable to
day’ list and this is an ideal time to do   than 18 per cent of its territory is en-    consider spending any time in Andalu-
it. After all, the history of this region   vironmentally protected. There are          cía without golf coming into the con-
goes back an extremely long way and         over 20 Natural Parks, which have fa-       versation, because it is the region with
there are many remains from the             cilities for visitors such as information   the most golf courses in Spain and the
different cultures and civilisations        centres, recreation areas, campsites,       Costa del Sol has also been nicknamed
that settled in the south of Spain over     hiking routes, lookout points and re-       the Costa del Golf. Its unbeatable cli-
thousands of years.                         fuges. Outdoor activities and adventu-      mate means that golf lovers can play
   This summer there are unlikely to        re sports are becoming increasingly         their favourite sport at any time of
be crowds of visitors, so why not con-      popular here too, and for those who         year, on fantastic courses set amid
sider a visit to the Alhambra in Grana-     prefer to exploer by car there are nu-      beautiful countryside or close to stun-
da, the Mosque-Cathedral in Cordoba         merous cultural and historic routes         ning beaches and sea views.
or the Giralda bell tower in Seville?       passing through tiny villages and glo-         There are about 100 courses in this
And if those are already ticked off on      rious countryside.                          region, and you can play golf in any of
your list, how about the incredible            If the idea of outdoor activities        the provinces. It doesn’t matter what
towns of Úbeda and Baeza in Jaén,           appeals, there are many opportu-                                         your stan-
which together are a World Heritage         nities for a rural holiday                                                      dard
Site, or Arcos de la Frontera in Cádiz      with a difference and
province, the Roman town of Baelo           plenty of self-ca-
Claudia on the beach at Bolonia, also       tering                                                    The village of Cazorla,
in Cádiz province, Ronda with its fa-       accommo-                                              at the heart of the natural
mous gorge, in Malaga, or Moguer, in                                                               park of the same name in
Huelva?                                                                                                  Jaén province. :: SUR
   Andalucía offers the chance to see
amazing prehistoric and Roman sites,
Islamic, Renaissance and Baroque ar-
chitecture, castles, fortresses and mo-
nasteries, in just about every one of its
eight provinces. For those who prefer
their culture more modern, what
about the vast range of museums
and art galleries, with exhibitions
which change regularly to ensure
that there is always something
new to marvel at and enjoy?
   Or perhaps after so many
weeks of strict lockdown, you
now have the urge to get out
into the countryside, breathe
some fresh air and get moving
again?

Nature and rural tourism
The contrasts in Andalucía are no
better demonstrated than in its
countryside. This region has some
of the highest mountains on the
Iberian Peninsula, in the Sierra Ne-
vada in Granada, extensive wetlands
such as the Marismas del Guadalqui-
Summer s' here here - Surinenglish
DIVERSITY

of play, there are practise courses,                                                  chore here. There are thermal waters,
pitch and putt, courses with nine and                                                 mud treatments, massages, therapeu-
18 holes, and a huge variety of terrain.                                              tic baths, high-pressure water thera-
                                                                                      pies and treatments with algae in
Other sports                                                                          most of the natural spas and spa cen-
It doesn’t matter whether you prefer                                                  tes in the region.
indoor or outdoor sports, there are ex-                                                  The baths usually offer medicinal mi-
cellent facilities in Andalucía, which                                                neral waters, personalised treatments and
also hosts national and international                                                 specialist medical teams, while the spas
competitions for enthusiasts who like                                                 have relaxation therapies based on the
to spectate rather than participate or                                                qualities and properties of the water.
compete. Just check out what’s on
offer near you, or upcoming events,                                                   A thousand ways to have fun
and plan accordingly.                                                                 It is often said that there are a thou-
   Also, it may not seem relevant in                                                  sand ways to have fun and enjoy your-
the heat of an Andalusian summer,             The Guadalquivir, Seville. :: SUR       self in Andalucía, and that is perhaps
but nor should it be forgotten that this                                              the main reason for its success as a ho-
region is home to the most southerly                                                  liday destination. Whatever you feel
ski resort in Europe, the Sierra Nevada                                               like doing, you can do it here. It makes
in Granada province, so anyone thin-                                                  it a great place to visit, and a wonder-
king of a winter holiday might like to                                                ful place to live. The eight provinces
bear in mind that it is often possible to                                             in Andalucía and they are all very
sunbathe on the beach in Nerja or Mo-                                                 different.
tril, for example, in the morning, and                                                   Almeria, in the east, is the driest
ski or take part in other snow sports in                                              area in the region and its desert-like
the afternoon. The evenings, of cour-                                                 scenery made it the location for some
se, are perfect for the after-ski, a few                                              memorable ‘paella western’ films over
drinks and a meal by a roaring log fire                                               the years. There is now a Mini Ho-
before tucking up in a comfortable bed                                                llywood, giving visitors the chance to
to rest before the following day’s fun                                                go back in time and experience life in
and exploits.                                                                         this Spanish version of the ‘wild west’.
   The resort is fully equipped for fa-                                               This provice is known for its wild
milies, too, with activities and classes                                              beauty, sublime beaches, 300 hours of
just for children and their own super-        The mosque-cathedral, Cordoba. :: SUR   sunshine a year and also, surprisingly
vised play area while Mum and Dad                                                     enough, its mountains because one
are on the slopes.                                                                    side of the Alpujarras (the foothills
   Depending on the snow, the Sierra Ne-                                              and valleys south of the Sierra Nevada
vada is normally open from November or                                                in Granada) lies in Almeria province.
December - and is a fabulous place to spend                                              The capital, Almeria city, is a
Christmas, with Santa Claus descending                                                bustling port city crowned by a specta-
from the mountain on skis, and New Year                                               cular Moorish fortress, with nume-
- until April or May.                                                                 rous palm trees in the centre and some
                                                                                      fantastic tapas bars.
Health and beauty                                                                        Moving on in alphabetical order,
It would be perfectly understandable,                                                 Cadiz is in the south-west of Andalu-
after the stresses of the lockdown and                                                cía, and its capital is generally conside-
problems associated with the pande-                                                   red to be the oldest continually inha-
mic, to feel that you don’t want to be                                                bited city in Europe, founded as ‘Ga-
active and that all you want this sum-                                                dir’ by the Phoenicians in 1100 BC It
mer is a bit of pampering and wellbe-                                                 oozes history, and ancient remains are
ing. Again, Andalucía has a vast array                                                continually being uncovered during
of options which are beneficial for                                                   building words, shedding more light
body and soul and wouldn’t mean tra-                                                  on its past.
velling far from home.                                                                   The province is very varied, with
   The lovely climate, the pure moun-                                                 spectacular beaches and the rugged
tain air or refreshing sea breeze mean                                                Sierra de Cadiz mountainous area to
that taking care of oneself is never a        Los Infiernos, Loja, Granada. :: SUR    the north, with tiny tucked-away vi-

8
Summer s' here here - Surinenglish
llages amid terrain whch was once fre-
quented by bandits. Some of Spain’s
greatest wines are made here, and it is
also famous for its seafood.
   It feels as if Cordoba - the city, at
least - needs no introduction. The ca-
pital of the caliphate and centre of
learning in Moorish times, its past glo-
ries are still there to appreciate in the
form of the Mosque-Cathedral and the
ruins of Medina Azahara, not far away.
   The province , which is inland, pri-
des itself on its wine production,
which it insists is equal to that of the
more famous Jerez wines, and its olive
oil. It is also known for colourful cera-
mics, and its landscapes range from
flat plains to beautiful mountains
scattered with little white villages.       El Playazo becah in Almeria province. :: SUR
   Granada, with which Cordoba sha-
res a boundary, is stunning. The city is                                                   coast. The city was until quite re-
home to the Alhambra palace and Ge-                                                        cently less well-known, but in the
neralife gardens, the atmospheric                                                          past few years it has become particu-
gypsy quarters of Albaicín and Sacro-                                                      larly popular for city breaks, mainly
monte, and it is a treasure house of                                                       because of its culture. It has over 30
historical buildings and monuments.                                                        museums, including the Picasso Mu-
   This is a province of high moun-                                                        seum, the only branch of the Pompi-
tains, the Sierra Nevada national and                                                      dou Centre outside France and the
natural parks, deep valleys, small vi-                                                     Russian State Museum of St Peters-
llages and lovely coastal resorts. A                                                       burg, among many others.
feast for the eyes and the senses, in                                                         Last, but definitely not least, we
fact.                                                                                      have Seville, the seat of the Andalu-
   Huelva could probably claim to be                                                       sian government, famous for its cathe-
the least-known province of Andalu-                                                        dral, its Holy Week processions, the
cía. North of Cadiz and bordering Se-                                                      Guadalquivir river, traditional gypsy
ville and Portugal, it has absolutely                                                      districts and flamenco. The towns in
spectacular Atlantic beaches and close                                                     the province tend to be forgotten, but
connections with Christopher Colum-                                                        some, such as Carmona, are real trea-
bus, of which it is very proud. The ca-                                                    sures. Seville’s beauty lies in its places
pital, Huelva city, has a bustling but                                                     and its people; the landscape is flat,
unpretentious port and is interesting                                                      and the province becomes extremely
to visit, and is also very traditional as                                                  hot in summer.
few international tourists go there.
   The province is known for its sea-                                                      A place that others envy
food but also for the world-famous          Golf on the Costa del Sol, Malaga. :: EFE      Some people have decided to get to
acorn-fed jabugo ham, from the pigs                                                        know a different part of Andalucía this
which roam freely in the meadows            cellent traditional food. The capital is       year, while others prefer to stay at
and mountains of the Sierra Alacena.        hilly, historic and atmospheric,               home but there is still no lack of
On the coast is the Doñana National         crowned by a castle and with a magni-          things to do and enjoy. Apart from the
Park, which is home to many protec-         ficent cathedral. Ideal for exploring on       attractions mentioned here, which are
ted species of wildlife.                    foot.                                          only a few of many, most councils or-
   The province of Jaén couldn’t be            Malaga province is synonymous               ganise events to entertain their resi-
more of a contrast. It boasts a sea of      with tourism. Everyone has heard of            dents, such as open air film scree-
olive groves, the World Heritage Site       it, and its facilities, its beaches, its       nings, theatre shows and concerts.
of Úbeda and Baeza, the stunning Ca-        nightlife, its golf, its sport. Few are        Wherever you are, whatever you do, if
zorla natural park and is a magical         aware that it also has beautiful coun-         you’re in Andalucía you know that
combination of history, nature and ex-      tryside only a short drive from the            others all over the world are envious.

                                                                                                                                    9
Summer s' here here - Surinenglish
Holidaying
     without
     reservations

Rural peace and quiet at Almohalla 51. :: SUR

Southern Spain’s hospitality pros have                                                       Although the emphasis will remain
                                                                                          on the fundamental foundation of hos-
been working hard so guests can enjoy                                                     pitality (a warm, welcoming environ-
                                                                                          ment and personalised guest experi-
summer in confidence                                                                      ences), many familiar aspects of a hotel
                                                                                          stay may well feel like a whole new ex-
                                                                                          perience this year.
International borders in                    have created new systems to maximise             SUR in English talks to four different
Europe are finally opening,                 hygiene, food security and safety.            properties - from inland, rural Malaga
                                                                                          province to the glamour of Marbella - to
and the south of Spain is                   Keeping the magic                             see how they are creating healthy,
unshuttering hotels and                     Yet there lies the challenge for hoteliers    happy hotels.
                                            - the means to effectively implement
resorts and welcoming                       new hygiene and social distancing pro-        Hotel innovations
valued guests                               tocols, while also maintaining the es-        For example, check-in and room access
ANDREW FORBES                               sence of their properties, the unique ap-     are set to be more streamlined, guest-
                                            peal and allure of their hotels. After all,   friendly, and increasingly ‘contactless’
                                            that’s why guests have made their reser-      thanks to pre-arrival online check-in
                                            vations. As holidaymakers, we all want        and digital smartphone room keys.
                                            to feel pampered and relaxed in our ho-       Use of technology is also extending to
Visitors to Southern Spain will discover    tel, not nervous in a clinical environ-       dining, with the use of digital menus,
something new this summer; an               ment.                                         which when creatively executed, can
evolved approach to hospitality that re-       So unsurprisingly, hospitality profes-     offer the potential for compelling guest
flects the new normality of health and      sionals are taking inspiration from the       experiences that complement and en-
safety measures designed to reduce the      changes demanded by these compre-             hance classic hospitality. Hotel restau-
risk of Covid-19 contagion. Hotels and      hensive protocols to redesign and re-         rants are changing too, with more spa-
guesthouses, in their desire to create      magine the overall hotel experience, for      cious alfresco dining; and more person-
high levels of consumer confidence,         the better.                                   alised in-room meals, like in-room

10
ACCOMMODATION

  Take                             Adapting to new circumstances. Hospitality professionals are taking inspiration from
  note                             the changes demanded by these comprehensive protocols to redesign and reimagine
                                   the overall hotel experience, for the better.
                                   ANDREW FORBES

breakfasts and picnics, private dining on                                                             Luxury at the Marbella Club
the terrace or balcony, and enhanced                                                                             Beach Club. :: SUR
room service menus that will typically
be priced as the same as the restaurant,
with free delivery.

Luxury and wellness
Marbella Club
Leading hotelier, Julián Cabanillas, Gen-
eral Manager at the iconic Marbella
Club, explains, “Hotels have been adapt-
ing to new health and safety protocols
continuously in the last decades. It will
be more challenging to be able to pro-
vide the warm and familiar service we
are famous for while adapting to new
social norms. It will be a change of pace
for the Marbella Club, but we feel that
creating safe havens, full of small yet
significantly thoughtful details, we’ll
ensure our guests continue to feel at
home with us.”
   Marbella Club is undoubtedly one of
the flagships of Andalucía’s upscale hos-
pitality. It’s the kind of destination that
evokes an almost magical ambiance. It is
where the beauty and charm of a time-
less seaside Andalusian village blends
with the latest trends in wellness, gas-      or suites, with no tray fee. So, guests can   whole new category of 5-star hotel.
tronomy and hospitality.                      indulge in signature cuisine when and         Moored adjacent to Gibraltar’s stylish
   So, it is here that one can see many of    where they want it, with all the ex-          Ocean Village, Sunborn Gibraltar is
the innovations that are driving the fu-      pected style and finesse of Marbella          keeping its focus well and truly on per-
ture of Spanish luxury hospitality. An        Club.                                         sonal service for guests, together with
approach that combines rigorous health           Wellness has always been an integral       new innovations in dining and wellness.
and safety procedures (from employee          element of the Marbella Club, and it’s           Marc Skvorc, the yacht hotel’s Chief
and guest health screening, extensive         always being enhanced as guests desire        Operating Officer explains, “As a part of
cleaning and sanitising protocols, to         and demand to boost their wellbeing           our ‘restart the magic’ movement, I am
contactless experiences), with new            and immune system while on holiday.           excited to say that we will be offering
ways to offer the signature Marbella          Marbella Club provides its wellness           several new options for those returning
Club style that guests have come to love      menus in-room and is also bringing its        to the hotel such as pre-check-in online,
over the property’s illustrious 65-year       award-winning spa to the guest room,          special ‘picnic’ baskets and enhanced
history.                                      with treatments, and therapies offered        room service. Among my favourite in-
   Marbella Club has taken advantage of       in the private villas and suites.             novations is our new Food and Beverage
the fact that is it on a spacious beach and      Julián Cabanillas concludes, “We are       offering, now all on the top (7th-floor)
surrounded by acres of private gardens        doing everything possible to come back        deck. Our chef has created a new menu
to make social distancing a positive ele-     stronger than before.”                        combining the best sellers from both
ment in the guest experience. Rather                                                        our restaurants that can be enjoyed in a
than decrease capacity, it has imagina-       Stylish and shipshape                         completely open air setting with sweep-
tively created more areas for dining, en-     Sunborn Gibraltar                             ing views of the Bay and Rock of Gibral-
joying a drink and relaxing - from the        Just across the frontier, in Gibraltar, one   tar. We know this is uncharted territory
stylish MC Beach restaurant to garden         finds another unique, luxury hotel - the      for us all, but let’s take some time to re-
terraces. In addition, room service has       sparkling yacht, Sunborn Gibraltar.           lax with loved ones, friends and family
been reimagined, making it a compel-          Combining the glamour of an ocean             and together create a luxury experience
ling alternative to the restaurants. A        liner, the style of a super-yacht and the     on the Sunborn Yacht Hotel along the
comprehensive selection of dishes from        energy of an upscale casino with the          way.”
across the resort’s restaurants can be de-    gastronomy and luxury accommodation              Sunborn is making the most of its
livered directly to guest’s private villas,   of a fine hotel, Sunborn has created a        privileged location on the water, and

                                                                                                                                      11
spoilt countryside, national parks, and
                                                                                             protected nature reserves in Southern
                                                                                             Spain.
                                                                                                Almohalla 51 is a boutique guest house
                                                                                             in the centre of the traditional white hill-
                                                                                             top town of Archidona, north of Malaga.
                                                                                             It has been created by Myles and David,
                                                                                             who left London careers in travel and
                                                                                             marketing, to move to Spain and create a
                                                                                             guest house which reflected their love of
Privacy aboard the Sunborn Gibraltar. :: SUR                                                 good service and beautiful places to stay.
                                                                                                Taking two derelict townhouses they
                                                                                             established a stylish retreat that epito-
welcoming guests back with promo-                                                            mises the charm of a traditional Andalu-
tions including, as Marc explains, “spe-                                                     sian town.
cial Sunset Happy Hour vouchers,                                                                Myles and David hope that their ap-
where, upon redemption, guests will re-                                                      proach to rural hospitality will be particu-
ceive double the value during the sun-                                                       larly sought-after in this new era of social-
setting hours”.                                                                              distanced travel, where rural isolation can
   Behind the scenes the team will be                                                        be balanced with the attractions of a small
working hard to maintain high levels of                                                      market town. David says, “Escaping to the
health security. Marc continues, “At                                                         relative calm of Archidona, away from the
Sunborn, we recognise that people want                                                       crowds, means an escape to cleaner air,
to be reassured that the highest safety                                                      more space, but still experiencing a warm
measures are in place. It is with this in                                                    and authentic Andalusian welcome.”
mind that Sunborn has rigorously en-                                                            Of course, changes have had to be made
hanced its already high level of cleanli-                                                    at the guesthouse to comply with new
ness and hygiene in all areas of the hotel                                                   norms in social distancing and hygiene,
following guidelines in accordance with        Palladium Hotel, Benalmádena. :: SUR          yet the focus remains on showcasing in-
the World Health Organisation.”                                                              land Andalucía: hiking routes in the wild
                                                                                             countryside; the regional cuisine of the lo-
Family fun                                        Hygiene and food safety have always        cal bars and restaurants, which are well
Palladium Hotel                                been priorities in Palladium Hotels and       prepared for distanced dining on open ter-
Of course, southern Spain is also all about    now the company has partnered with            races; and the heritage of the area.
family holidays, and the Palladium Hotel       SGS, a leading entity for the certification      So, when holidaying in Andalucía, you
Costa del Sol, the first Palladium property    and implementation of safety and wel-         can forget any reservations you might
on the Spanish mainland, is at the fore-       fare protocols, to develop further meas-      have, and instead enjoy a safe and wel-
front of the contemporary interpretation       ures that are externally audited.             coming summer season.
of the 21st century family all-inclusive          “We are a company that is wholeheart-
holiday.                                       edly dedicated to customer enjoyment
   Set on a bay, on the Benalmádena            without ever compromising on safety. In       INFORMATION
coast, the Palladium Hotel Costa del Sol is    2020, we feel that customers will be
opening for its second season, welcoming       even more in need of a holiday after a
couples and families who are attracted by      particularly challenging period and many         Marbella Club: https://www.mar-
the contemporary aesthetic of the guest        personal sacrifices. We look forward to        bellaclub.com/en/
rooms, seven bars and restaurants, a spec-     welcoming our guests with the same
tacular rooftop, as well as a spa and pools.   warm hospitality which our brand is              Sunborn Yacht Hotel:
   Palladium Hotels is an international        known for.”                                    https://www.sunborngibraltar.com/
business, with decades of experience in
tourism. So, despite 2020 being a chal-        Rural getaway                                    Palladium Hotel Costa del Sol:
lenging year for the hotel sector, they        Almohalla 51                                   https://www.palladiumhotel-
confirm, “Palladium Hotels has been            If lockdown has given you a renewed en-        group.com/en/hotels/espana/mala-
quick to adapt. We have already launched       thusiasm for the quiet life, then you are      ga/palladium-hotel-costa-del-sol
a range of new initiatives and safety pro-     probably not alone. This year rural Anda-
tocols to ensure the wellbeing of our staff    lucía will undoubtedly be more popular          Almohalla 51: https://www.almo-
and guests and make sure that visitors         than ever, offering social distancing by       halla51.com/
can leave their worries at home.”              default, thanks to the abundance of un-

12
13
Dunes and cliffs hide
                                                            more sheltered beaches
                                                            far from the crowded
                                                            seafront promenades
                                                            JAVIER ALMELLONES

                                                            From steep cliffs to soft dunes, with
                                                            large and comfortable beaches in-be-
                                                            tween. The coastline in Malaga province
                                                            is varied; it shows many different faces
                                                            along its more than 160 kilometre
                                                            length between Nerja and Manilva.
                                                            Every summer the Costa del Sol, with
                                                            its two very different parts, east and
                                                            west, with Malaga city in the middle, is
                                                            one of the most popular destinations for
                                                            tourists. This is especially so for those
                                                            who want beaches and coves which are
                                                            unusual and different, but above all
                                                            quiet, even though this may mean they
                                                            are less easy to access.
                                                               Lovers of quiet beaches will know
                                                            that the ones they like the best are the
                                                            hardest to get to. The part of the coast-
                                                            line farthest east of Malaga city is pro-
                                                            tected as a natural beauty spot, the
                                                            Acantilados de Maro (Maro cliffs). This
                                                            protected area includes, for example,
The beach at Cabopino, alongside the Artola dunes. :: SUR   the Cala de la Doncella, which is idyllic
                                                            and very well preserved, although to
                                                            reach it you will need to go on foot or

Quiet beaches
                                                            even by kayak from the adjacent
                                                            beaches. It is only small, and is situated
                                                            between what is known as the Peñón
                                                            del Fraile and Punta Caleta.
                                                               Also in Nerja, but more accessible and

and coves to                                                better-known, is the Playa del Cañuelo,
                                                            another jewel of the Acantilados de
                                                            Maro area. Mind you, in peak season you
                                                            cannot use your own vehicle to get

escape to
                                                            there. You either have to walk or use a
                                                            shuttle bus which runs continually be-
                                                            tween the car park and the beach. This is
                                                            a way of preserving the beaches in this
                                                            beauty spot. The Playa del Cañuelo is
                                                            relatively large and is similar to many
                                                            others in this area, in that the sea water
Even today, it is possible to find small                    is crystal-clear and the beach is of sand
                                                            and stones.
Mediterranean paradises along the                              Further west, but still within the
                                                            same area, is the Playa del Carabeíllo
otherwise busy Costa del Sol                                Chico, which is very close to the famous
                                                            and busy Burriana beach. It is a haven of
                                                            peace for anyone who wants to enjoy a

14
BY THE SEA

                                                                                                Carabeíllo Chico beach
                                                                                                near Nerja. :: E. C.

quiet day on the sand. The access                                                                 In Malaga city, but on the east-
is quite difficult and is from the                                                             ern side, is the Playa de Peñón del
Burriana beach itself. It is a very                                                          Cuervo, which is well-known to
small cove, surrounded by large rocks                                                       people in the province and else-
which provide a certain privacy.                                                          where. Lying between El Palo and La
   In neighbouring Torrox, the Playa de                                                 Araña, this cove has a large rock right on
Mazagarrobo, otherwise known as Tajo                                                    the shore. It isn’t always a haven of
de la Virgen, is also popular. The latter                                               tranquility, but it’s worth going on a
name comes from a rock which, accord-                                                   weekday or outside peak season to en-
ing to legend, is where the Virgen de las   naturist campsite, just a short distance    joy its ecosystem. In fact, in its waters
Nieves (the patron saint of Torrox) once    away from the beach. It should be           you can see a plant which is in danger of
appeared, to save some fishermen from       noted, however, that not all the beach at   extinction, the ‘siempreviva
the village during a storm.                 Almayate is nudist. People are only al-     malagueña’.
   The beach is just over one kilometre     lowed to strip off in the stretch in the       On the western side of the Costa del
long and about 20 metres wide. Another      Bajamar area, which is signposted as        Sol, despite being better-known, there
attraction of this cove is that its clear   such.                                       are some quieter beaches such as La Bu-
waters are ideal for activities such as        Meanwhile, Rincón de la Victoria has     tibamba. This is in La Cala de Mijas, with
snorkelling and diving.                     a particularly comfortable beach for        its historical watchtower, the Torreón,
   On the coast at Vélez-Malaga there       people who are looking for something        which has now been converted into an
are also several beaches to choose from.    different, at Torre de Benagalbón. For      interesting museum. Butibamba is a
One of the coast’s few naturist beaches     many, its charm is that there is no sea-    quiet cove with fine sand and some
can be found in Almayate, just one kilo-    front promenade so it is quieter than       more rugged areas. As well as spending a
metre from Torre del Mar. It also has a     other beaches in the same municipality.     day on the beach, a walk along part of

                                                                                                                                15
BY THE SEA

the new Coastal Path is also enjoyable.
   Further to the west is Cabopino
beach, in Marbella. There, you can visit
one of the geological treasures of the
Mediterranean coast of Andalucía. This
strip of coast is beside the natural monu-
ment of the Dunas de Artola, a dune sys-
tem which can be explored along
wooden walkways. This beach, which
also has a nudist area, is beside Cabopino
marina, where there is a good selection
of restaurants.
   Another interesting option in Mar-
bella is Realejo, a small cove close to Los
Monteros beach, which is one of those
surprisingly peaceful corners of the           The Mazagarrobo beach, in Torrox. :: J. A.
western Costa del Sol. The fact that it is
between two beaches which are very
busy in high season, and its natural sur-
roundings, make this one of the most
interesting coves for those looking for
peace and quiet in the summer.
   In neighbouring Estepona there is
also plenty of choice, and one of the best
is the beach at Bahía Dorada. The sea is
crystal clear here, so it is a good place to
take your goggles and snorkel and enjoy
the marine fauna and flora. This beach is
very close to the one called La Galera, in
other words about eight kilometres west
of Estepona town centre.
   The municipality of Casares has two
kilometres of coastline, and its most fa-
mous beach is Playa Ancha, which is ac-        The Peñón del Cuervo beach near Malaga city. :: ÑITO SALAS
tually in three different parts.
    One is the stretch beside the Torre de
la Sal, also known as Salto de la Mora, a
lovely watchtower which was part of a
castle at one time. Next to this is Playa
Chica, which goes as far as the Arroyo de
la Parrilla stream. The third part, which
is actually called Playa Ancha, is on the
boundary with Manilva.
   This area has clear sea water, fine sand
and some rugged areas, with rocks
stretching out into the Mediterranean.
It is a very unusual combination.
   Apart from the built-up areas,
Manilva’s coastline is one of the most
popular for those looking for something
a bit different. As well as the beach
called Chullera, there is also the envi-
ronmentally valuable Playas de Manilva
reserve, a small coastal paradise at the
point at which the territory of Malaga
comes to an end and that of the Campo
de Gibraltar begins.                           A large part of the coast at Manilva is still very natural. :: J. A.

16
17
DIVERSITY

                                                                                            Equestrian School is now known all over
                                                                                            the world.
                                                                                               As a Foundation, it represents the iden-
                                                                                            tity of equestrian art in Andalucía, espe-
                                                                                            cially through the show ‘Como bailan los
                                                                                            caballos andaluces’(’How the Andalusian
                                                                                            horses dance’) which is a type of choreo-
                                                                                            graphed equestrian ballet with dressage
                                                                                            and carriage driving, quintessential Span-
                                                                                            ish music and 18th century costumes.
                                                                                                In the ‘doma vaquera’ section, the
                                                                                            horseman rides his horse around the
                                                                                            arena holding the reins in just one hand,
                                                                                            trotting at first and then galloping, chang-
                                                                                            ing the rhythm and performing pirou-
                                                                                            ettes. Doma vaquera is similar to the style
                                                                                            used by American cowboys herding cattle
                                                                                            in wide open spaces, and although it is
                                                                                            based on classical dressage it is much
                                                                                            faster and dramatic.
                                                                                               To demonstrate classical dressage tech-
                                                                                            niques, the horses carry out exercises to
                                                                                            pieces of classical music, with choreogra-
                                                                                            phy titled The Colts, Airs on Horseback,
A show at the Royal Andalusian Ecuestrian School in Jerez.                                  Pas de Deux, Passage and Piaffe, Domino
                                                                                            on Horseback, Airs above the ground and
                                                                                            Fantasy, among others.

The horses of
                                                                                               The show also includes examples of
                                                                                            Work In Hand, where the horse obeys its
                                                                                            rider even when he or she is not in the
                                                                                            saddle, carrying out classical Haute École

Andalucía
                                                                                            dressage exercises such as levades, capri-
                                                                                            oles, courbettes, piaffe, Spanish walk and
                                                                                            long reins.
                                                                                               It is also possible to visit other parts of
                                                                                            the school, and sometimes to watch some
                                                                                            of the students training.
                                                                                               For anyone wanting to understand the
You only have to mention the name of                                                        equestrian culture of Andalucía, a visit to
                                                                                            the School should not be missed. Com-
this region, and the pulses of horse                                                        bine it with Jerez’s flamenco offering for
                                                                                            the unique essence of Andalucía.
lovers will start to beat faster                                                            Reales Caballerizas de Córdoba
                                                                                            Anyone in the ancient and spectacular
From spectacular equestrian                  lucía can both admire the animals at spe-      city of Cordoba can also experience the
schools to wild ponies,                      cial events or even enjoy the experience       unrivalled beauty of Andalusian horses
                                             of riding along spectacular beaches or         and learn about the connection between
Andalucía’s love affair with its             through glorious countryside.                  local history and its equestrian traditions
‘caballos’ goes back a long way.                                                            at the ‘Reales Caballerizas de Cordoba’.
DEBBIE BARTLETT
                                             Equestrian art                                    These Royal Stables, which were built
                                             The Royal Andalusian School of Eques-          in the 16th century, are in the centre of
                                             trian Art is somewhere that will defi-         Cordoba, beside the Alcazaba, the palace-
The name Andalucía conjures up many          nitely set the pulses of horse-lovers rac-     fortress of the Christian Monarchs.
images, and one is that of beautiful Anda-   ing. It is in Jerez de la Frontera, in Cadiz      The shows performed here never fail to
lusian horses, an important part of local    province, the town which is famous for         impress. They are a perfect combination
culture and history. Horse-lovers in Anda-   its sherry and its flamenco, and the           of classical and Andalusian horsemanship,

18
The unique beach horseracing in Sanlúcar de Barrameda (Cadiz) will go ahead on three days this August.

including the ‘doma vaquera’ or western-                                           the oldest, having taken place for around
style dressage, mentioned above.                                                   500 years. The horses are brought first to
                                                                                   the village of El Rocío, where the famous
International polo in Sotogrande                                                   pilgrimage takes place every spring, and
Horses can also be seen in action in the                                           then on to Almonte, where they are
polo tournaments that are becoming tra-                                            cleaned, re-shod and blessed by a priest.
ditional in the luxury resort of Soto-                                             Some are then sold, and the rest are re-
grande, in San Roque, Cadiz province.                                              turned to their idyllic life in the wild.
Every August thousands flock to the in-
ternational competitions at the Santa                                              Circuito del Sol
María Polo Club. Most of the best players                                          This ‘Sunshine Tour’ is another very
in the world have competed here at some                                            popular event, this time in the beautiful
time. While competitions planned earlier                                           small town of Vejer de la Frontera in
this year were cancelled due to the coro-                                          Cadiz province. It is an international
navirus pandemic, action returns to the                                            show jumping competition which takes
Sotogrande club this summer.                                                       place over a six-week period in February
                                                                                   and March each year. The venue at De-
Horse races on the beach                                                           hesa de Montenmedio is huge, covering
For a very different experience, head to                                           more than 500 hectares with space for
the pretty town of Sanlúcar de Barra-                                              2,000 horses, and the facilities are the
meda, in Cádiz province, in August.                                                most spectacular in Europe. It is close to
There, you can sit in a swimsuit on the                                            the stunning beaches of Zahara de los
golden sand in the evening sun, amid a                                             Atunes, Barbate, Caños de Meca and Conil
festive atmosphere, sipping the local        Riding near Grazalema, above, and     de la Frontera, which are practically de-
‘manzanilla’ dry sherry and watching         grazing on the Doñana marshes.        serted at that time of year, and close to
horses go thundering past at top speed.                                            protected countryside.
   These races are world famous, and
have been taking place since 1845. For                                             Andalucía on horseback
this 175th anniversary, despite the coro-                                          Anyone who loves riding can enjoy some
navirus pandemic, the races will go ahead                                          magical experiences on horseback any-
but just on three days, 18, 21 and 28                                              where in Andalucía, and there are nu-
August.                                                                            merous official ‘Andalucía a Caballo’
                                                                                   equestrian routes. From day excursions
La Saca de Yeguas, Almonte                                                         to full holidays, along unspoiled beaches,
Unfortunately, the Saca de Yeguas which                                            through the mountains or deep in pro-
normally takes place on 26 June had to be                                          tected countryside, there is something
cancelled this year because of the corona-                                         for everybody and numerous companies
virus pandemic, so next year’s event will                                          are licensed to act as organisers and
be awaited with eager anticipation. It                                             guides.
takes place in Almonte, in Huelva prov-                                               And let us not forget that horses are an
ince, in the emblematic countryside of                                             important part of life for many Andalusi-
the Doñana marshes, where the horses                                               ans. Even without the chance to enjoy any
live wild all year round.                                                          of the above, lovers of these fine animals
   This is considered the most impressive                                          will always find them - and their proud
equine event in Spain, and is also one of                                          riders - at fairs, in parades, and at shows.

                                                                                                                             19
BY THE SEA

Travel secrets of the
Costa de la Luz
Enjoy wild nature, gourmet cuisine and broad beaches
on Andalucía’s Atlantic Coast of Light
ANDREW FORBES
                                                                                              of Andalucia. Don’t expect the typical
                                                                                              Spanish coastal sprawl; no, this is a special
It’s no mystery that I’m passionate about                                                     place where you can change the pace of
Andalucía. I sometimes I feel like an un-                                                     your holiday. So, take it easy. Browse the
official ambassador to be honest, such is                                                     surf shacks near Tarifa; enjoy a cold beer
my enthusiasm for southern Spain, its                                                         on the weatherworn deck of a beach bar;
nature, cuisine, history, and people. So,                                                     climb the sweeping sand dunes and be in-
when I was invited to contribute to the                                                       toxicated by the freshness of the pine and
SUR in English Summer’s Here maga-                                                            sea-scented air.
zine, I knew I wanted to write about one
of my favourite parts of the south - the                                                      Authentic lodging
Costa de la Luz.                                                                              I’m going to let you into a secret - Los
   This sparkling Atlantic coast of light,                                                    Caños de Meca. This small beach commu-
that runs all the way from Huelva’s Río                                                       nity is a favourite with Spaniards. Once
Guadiana down to the evocative port                                                           you pass the Strait of Gibraltar and reach
town of Tarifa on Cadiz’s spectacular                                                         the Atlantic coast of Andalucía, you will
coast is home to many of Spain’s best                                                         not want to leave.
beaches. That’s why the Costa de la Luz                                                          So, if you’re looking for an authentic
is my go-to place to chill and unwind. A                                                      place to stay, then Hotel Madreselva is it.
place of wild nature, virgin beaches and                                                      In summer, the village of Los Caños de
a laid-back surfer vibe that makes me                                                         Meca pulsates with life, a vibrant com-
feel younger and freer.                                                                       munity of locals and visitors who are
   So here I want to share a few secrets                                                      drawn to the ocean and beaches. Madre-
of this Atlantic shoreline that runs along                                                    selva will be your calming oasis.
Cadiz province, so you too can create un-                                                        The hotel is an intimate place. Built in
forgettable holiday memories.                                                                 a hacienda style, the comfortable rooms
                                                                                              are found around a central, scented
Road trip                                     El Cuartel del Mar.   :: FORBES                 courtyard patio filled with Mediterra-
If you don’t have a car you’ll need to rent                                                   nean and sub-tropical plants. Each guest
one to explore this windswept yet magi-       ‘Cadizfornia’, a hip, cool yet open and         room has a small private furnished ter-
cal coast. The seaside roads meander          friendly place for lovers of the outdoors.      race, and a simple en suite bathroom
through laidback villages and small tuna      Maybe choose a vintage campervan or             with shower and tub, and amenities
fishing ports. Water sport aficionados        rugged 4x4 for your Coast of Light road         made with organic citrus essential oils.
love the area, as the wind is channelled by   trip. After all, you’ll be immersed in splen-      Although you’ll probably head straight
the proximity of the African and Euro-        did isolation among remote nature, from         to the beaches just across the street,
pean continents, making it perfect for        dense Atlantic and Mediterranean pine           there is also a private pool in a walled
kite surfing. Look out across the water       forests, to sweeping beaches of massive         patio if you want to find a more private
from Tarifa towards Morocco and the ho-       slow-moving dunes and crashing waves.           place to sunbathe.
rizon is often cluttered with colourful          My first piece of advice is to take your        When it comes to beaches you can
kites of surfers who leap up into the air.    time, allow for diversions, stops and un-       take you pick; family, nudist, gay - it’s an
Unsurprisingly it’s been christened           expected discoveries. This is the wild west     open and inclusive culture in Los Caños

20
The Costa de la Luz, where the Atlantic reaches Andalucía. :: FORBES

de Meca - capturing the                                                                     Ángel León’s remarkable three-Michelin-
timeless appeal of an Andalu-                                                               star restaurant which showcases his
sian summer.                                                                                unique Cuisine of the Sea.
   Hotel Madreselva is man-                                                                    Also, in nearby Jerez de la Frontera,
aged by the friendly people                                                                 Juan Luis Fernández, or JuanLu, has cre-
who created La Casa de La                                                                   ated his Lú, Cocina y Alma restaurant
Califa, on the central plaza of                                                             which has been recognised with a Mich-
the charming, nearby hilltop                                                                elin star, for his creative fusion of French
town of Vejer de la Frontera.                                                               and Andalusian cuisine.
You’ll be made to feel wel-                                                                    More than any ingredient, it is proba-
come and at home.                                                                           bly the wild red tuna of the Costa de la
   If you’re enjoying a road                                                                Luz that defines the gastronomy here.
trip along the coast, you’ll                                                                Caught during the almadraba season, us-
appreciate the free, off-road                                                               ing sustainable techniques that date back
hotel parking too; and if you                                                               to the Phoenicians, these magnificent
love the sundowners at the                                                                  animals inspire remarkably creative
local beach terrace bars, don’t                                                             dishes. The port town of Barbate is where
worry if you get back late, as there’s 24-    Carabineros prawns at El Cuartel. :: FORBES   most the of tuna are landed and it is here
hour reception.                                                                                                   one finds El Campero
                                                                                                                  restaurant. Depend-
Gastronomy                                                                                                        ing on your mood,
Cadiz province has emerged as a culinary                                                                          and your budget, you
destination, thanks to the exceptional                                                                            can choose to dine on
quality of local produce from the sea and                                                                         an exquisite tasting
land. Although far from being the richest                                                                         menu in the formal
part of Andalucía, this region has a                                                                              dining room, or head
wealth of fish, seafood, beef, and produce                                                                        to the bar and try
- and wines of course, including Vinos de                                                                         some of the creative
Jerez, or sherry, as they are better known.                                                                       tapas of the day.
Enjoy a chilled Manzanilla sherry wine
with a tapa of fresh Atlantic prawns and                                                                        Beachside bliss
believe me, your notion of sherry will be                                                                       This is where I shall
changed for ever.                                                                                               share another secret
   Little wonder the Costa de la Luz has                                                                        with you. For some-
been the secret of success for chefs here.                                                                      thing completely new,
Aponiente, in El Puerto de Santa María, is    Hotel Madreselva. :: FORBES                                       then head to Chiclana

                                                                                                                                      21
BY THE SEA

de la Frontera. This unpretentious, historic    colleague Chef Mikel Badiola bring re-         and also the scarlet Atlantic carabineros
seaside town over looks magnificent             nowned international expertise and crea-       prawns. Cadiz also has excellent fruit and
beaches. It’s home to one of the coast’s        tivity to Andalucía’s Atlantic shores.         vegetables like plump tomatoes and arti-
newest restaurants, El Cuartel del Mar,            To make the most of the setting, I rec-     chokes which feature in many dishes. Try
boasting a spectacular setting beside an        ommend starting your meal with a cock-         the tasty ‘tortillitas de camarones’
ancient lookout tower, on the vast Playa        tail in the patio. Mixologist Luca Anastasio   (shrimp fritters) for a quick snack as you
de la Barrosa.                                  creates original and beautiful drinks -        read the menu, or a place of gourmet
   Here hip urban style converges with the      many of which can be prepared as low al-       cured ham. If you are not tempted by the
simplicity and authenticity of the Costa        cohol drinks if you want something light       fish, then there are the finest beef steaks
del la Luz. It’s the most unforgettable         and refreshing.                                from Scotland and Spain, prepared on the
place to eat. Design, art, music, and cuisine      At El Cuartel del Mar, the ocean is of      wood-burning grill.
collide to create a modern interpretation       course the inspiration, and the local pro-        The curated wine list inevitably includes
of the Cadiz beach lifestyle. A once-aban-      duce the protagonists in the restaurant’s      vinos de Jerez. Let the wine waiter guide
doned Civil Guard HQ has been reimag-           menu. Expect exquisite fish and seafood,       you to discover some superb, dry white
ined as a super-stylish ocean view restau-      including the local wild red tuna, wonder-     sherries that perfectly complement the
rant where Chef Manuel Berganza and his         ful rice dishes with local white shrimps       dishes. If you love discovering new things,
                                                                                               then try one of the local Chiclana wines.

                                                                                               Naturally inspiring
                                                                                               It’s not just the beaches and the food that
                                                                                               will make you fall in love with this corner
                                                                                               of Spain. Here are protected natural parks
                                                                                               of pine forest and mountains too. It’s a joy
                                                                                               to explore. For a real insider perspective,
                                                                                               my secret is to hike with a local guide.
                                                                                               Carlos Miburn has established Explore La
                                                                                               Tierra, a private tour and hiking company.
                                                                                               A speciality is nature hikes; Carlos shares
                                                                                               insights into the rich biodiversity of the
                                                                                               region. As you walk trails that hug the
                                                                                               coast and explore the woodlands, you
                                                                                               learn the secrets of the Mediterranean
                                                                                               and Atlantic pine forests, including the
                                                                                               edible and medicinal plants that can be
La Breña Natural Park on the Costa de la Luz. :: FORBES                                        found and their traditional uses. What’s
                                                                                               more, you’ll enjoy an unforgettable time
                                                                                               out in the great outdoors.
                                                                                                  So, here’s to you discovering some of
                                                                                               your very own secrets of the Costa de la
                                                                                               Luz - a place of authenticity; fab beaches;
                                                                                               genuine hospitality; splendid cuisine; and
                                                                                               calming nature.

                                                                                               INFORMATION

                                                                                                  Hotel Madreselva:
                                                                                                https://www.califavejer.com/ho-
                                                                                                tels/hotel-madreselva

                                                                                                  El Cuartel del Mar: https://elcuar-
                                                                                                teldelmar.com/

                                                                                                  Explore La Tierra: https://explore-
                                                                                                latierra.com/en/
Los Caños de Meca. :: FORBES

22
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DIVERSITY

Culture, history
and fun on the
Costa Tropical
Granada’s coastal towns and villages
have plenty to offer tourists this year
                                                                                     A view of La Herradura’s bay looking west

With the annual Jazz on the                town has lots to offer visitors looking   minibus service is in operation seven
Costa festival confirmed, as well          to learn more about the area.             days a week until 10 September and a
                                              All three places are open from Mon-    return ticket costs two euros. There is
other cultural events and                  day to Saturday from 10am to 1pm and      ample parking at the top of the cliff,
watersports on offer, there is             then from 5 to 7.30pm. This year the      from where the minibus service runs
                                           town hall has introduced QR codes to      approximately every 15 to 20 minutes.
every reason to visit Almuñécar,           access information about all three           This picturesque beach is nestled in
La Herradura and Salobreña                 sites via smartphones.                    between the cliffs of Cerro Gordo,
JENNIE RHODES                                                                        which sits between La Herradura in
                                           La Herradura and Cantarriján              Granada province and the tiny coastal
                                           La Herradura beach and the protected      hamlet of Maro in Malaga.
                                           cliffs of Punta de la Mona and Cerro
It’s largely business as usual this year   Gordo are great options for water-        Salobreña
on the beautiful Costa Tropical, with      sports such as diving, snorkelling,       The pretty town of Salobreña, a tradi-
the annual Jazz on the Costa festival,     paddle surfing and kayaking as well as    tional whitewashed Andalusian vil-
nights at the castle festival in La Her-   just cooling off with a dip in the sea.   lage, is perched high up on a hill and
radura and Salobreña’s Tendencias fes-        Tourist information offices in Al-     offers views of both the Sierra Nevada
tival all going ahead throughout July      muñécar and La Herradura are provid-      to the north and Mediterranean sea to
and August.                                ing beach kits to establish the four-     the south. With its narrow winding
  Other attractions such as the castle     metre squared social distancing areas.    streets and sea breezes it’s a great
and museums are also open to visitors         The Cantarriján naturist beach         place to explore in the heat of the
and of course the beaches of La Her-                                                 summer.
radura and Cantarriján are the ideal lo-                                                With extra lifeguards on hand this
cations to cool down, or get active        USEFUL WEBSITES                           year to province beach-goers with
with watersports such as snorkelling                                                 health and safety information and
or paddle surf, while enjoying Granada      www.almunecar.es                         plenty of cultural, historic and fun op-
province’s stunning coastline.                                                       tions to choose from, a trip to the
                                            www.granadajazz.es                       Costa Tropical this summer is a must
Culture, history and fun                                                             for anyone in the area.
With the majority of its museums and        www.ticketmaster.es
historical sites open, including the                                                 A lively cultural scene
San Miguel castle, Cueva de Siete Pala-     www.granadaescultura.com                 As well as being a great outdoor alter-
cios archaelogical museum and Claves                                                 native to the town’s beaches, Almuñé-
de Almuñécar museum, the seaside                                                     car’s Majuelo park will, as it does

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towards the protected Cerro Gordo cliffs. :: SUR                                          San Miguel castle. :: SUR

  every year, play host to a number of        festival on Saturday 25 will be Malaga      from 6 to 9 August in the castle gardens.
  cultural events during the summer.          singer-songwriter Pepa Niebla, who’ll       Confirmations include flamenco singer-
     Perhaps the town’s most popular          be presenting her new album Renais-         songwriter Miguel Poveda on 8 August.
  summer festival is Jazz on the Costa,       sance, and Andrea Motis, another               Salobreña’s Festival de Tendencias,
  which now in its thirty-third year,         great star of Spanish jazz music.           now in its twenty ninth year, will take
  will take place from 22 to 25 July and         The park will also be hosting a series   place from 5 to 7 August in the Audito-
  feature some of Spain’s most talented       of other concerts from Cuban to Fla-        rio Villa de Salobreña.
  jazz musicians.                             menco and orchestral music through-            For a break from the culture and his-
     Opening the festival on Wednesday        out the summer.                             tory, the ideal way to cool down and
  22 July will be the Costa Jazz Quartet,        The Cultureando festival, which          have fun on the Costa Tropical is a day
  along with the composer and winner          runs on Friday and Saturday evenings        at Almuñécar’s Aqua-Tropic water park.
  of Spanish Goya entertainment award,        throughout July, is a series of free con-   Located virtually on the beach and
  Chicuelo, who will be accompanied by        certs and other events that will take       overlooking the Mediterranean, it
  pianist Marco Mezquida.                     place on the streets and squares of Al-     opened for the summer season at the
     Lucía Rey, Chano Domínguez and           muñécar.                                    end of June. The salt water attractions
  Javier Colina will also be performing          La Herradura’s Noches en el Castillo     include the Zig Zag and Kamikaze
  on different nights and closing the         (nights in the castle) festival will run    slides as well as the Black Hole.

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