STANDING STRONG Dames Make the World a Better Place - SUMMER 2020 - Les Dames d'Escoffier International
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SUMMER 2020 STANDING STRONG TOGETHER Dames Make the World a Better Place ALSO INSIDE ... GRANDE DAME NOMINEES | LDEI QUARTERLY'S 20TH ANNIVERSARY | WENTE: LIVING LIFE WITH PURPOSE
Irene Li (New England) delivers
meals.
Sabrina Falquier Montgrain (San
Diego), Maria Gómez-Laurens
(San Diego and Mexico) and
Aracelli Ramos (Mexico) at Sal de
Nayar Culinary Lab in Mexico City.
Angela Shin (Seattle) packs food
bags at Pike Place Market.
FROM THE EDITOR
Embracing Life During A Pandemic
SUMMER 2020 The year 2020 began with great promise, then a global pan-
demic changed everything. The summer issue reflects this “new
reality” offering rich, meaningful content to help you navigate
in uncertain times. The feature “Standing
IN THIS ISSUE Strong Together” highlights extraordinary
Dames providing humanitarian assistance
for the most vulnerable among us and sup-
F E AT UR ES porting frontline medical superheroes like
Registered Nurse Sara Danesin, a London
4 Standing Strong Together Dame caring for coronavirus patients.
(Watch for Part Two in the fall issue.)
12 How a Virus Changed the Managing the stress of social isolation requires changing a
stressful situation or changing our reaction to it. It’s difficult
Restaurant Industry to control a pandemic, so stay-at-home Dames are practicing
mindfulness through the pastimes of gardening and home bak-
14 2020 Grande Dame Nominees ing. In a Facebook post Cynthia Nims (Seattle) says, “I feel like
some baking fiend has taken over my body—I have been baking
16 The Quarterly Celebrates SO MUCH more in the last few months than the last couple of
decades.” (I hear Cynthia has been sewing masks too.)
20th Anniversary The UK had a frenzy for making banana bread, according to
18 Wente: Living Life with Purpose
Reuters. As a few anxious world shoppers stock up on bath-
room tissue, the French are buying up baguettes—a symbol
of cultural exceptionalism—and even baking their own, up-
21 The Flavors of Mexico City setting supply chains. King Arthur Flour says in March, flour
sales increased 600 percent practically overnight. Mixing
cookie dough or kneading sourdough is therapeutic; the plea-
D E PA RTMEN T S surable results serve as immediate comfort in trying times.
20 Global Culinary Postcard
In today’s circumstances, a warm chocolate chip cookie is as
satisfying as a hug.
That brings to mind hygge (hyoo-guh) a nuanced Danish
22 Chapter Programs concept that embraces coziness, comfortable conviviality, and
well-being. Tricky to pronounce, etymologists think hygee
24 Green Tables might be associated with a Danish word for hug. Hygge cel-
ebrates the art of cocooning, vital for coping with Denmark’s
26 Member Milestones long, dark winters. (the shortest day being seven hours.) The
energy of hygee can also carry Dames through the pandemic.
29 Leadership in Action Experience hygge in solitude while reading this 20th an-
niversary issue in a cozy spot and sipping a cup of hot tea.
Physically isolated groups of Dames use digital platforms
ON THE COVER:
Top: Dames socialize on Zoom. Superheroine Dames support to socialize and build meaningful connections—their hygge
those in need during the pandemic: (left) New England experience is like a group hug. However it unfolds around
Dame Joanne Chang;(right top) Charleston Dames Angela you, hygee is easy to recognize. “You don’t spell it, you feel
DuPree (left)and Kelly Franz; and London Dame Sara it,” Winnie the Pooh remarked to Piglet on love. Think about
Danesin, RN.
hygge only enough to welcome and invite it in.
© Les Dames d’ Escoffier, 2020. —Susan Fuller Slack, Editor, Summer Quarterly
2 Les Dames d’Escoffier International
PRESIDENT'S MESSAGE 2020 LDEI BOARD
OF DIRECTORS
Revisiting Resilience… Because We Didn’t The mission of the LDEI Board is to
foster the growth and success of
Realize How Resilient We Needed to Be! the organization by supporting the
development of new and existing
chapters and by implementing program
As I write this, months before you’ll actually read initiatives. It provides leadership,
the piece, we are in the midst of a surreal pan- guidance, education, connectivity, and
demic that has and will continue to change our effective communication among LDEI
lives. The impact on our industries—food, fine members.
beverage, hospitality—has been devastating. President
So many of you rose to the challenges you BEV SHAFFER
encountered—adapting and adjusting your Cleveland/Northeast Ohio Chapter
business model as you were able—and lifted the Owner/COOK.WRITE.TRAVEL.REPEAT.
spirits of others with your help and support. bev.foodwithattitude@gmail.com
(330) 441-2706
At this point, the Strategic Plan Task Forces
First Vice President
have begun their work and the LDEI Board
JUDY HOLLIS-JONES
of Directors, having canceled a face2face June Kentucky Chapter
Board meeting due to COVID-19, is taking Hollis Jones and Associates
on the challenge of envisioning what our 2020 judy@hollisjones.com
Annual Conference will look like. By the time (502)-403-9689
you read this, we will have answers and will have Second Vice President
begun the process of restrengthening our mem- DANIELLE WECKSLER
Charleston Chapter
bership and organization. They pick their battles. Resilient people tend to Le Creuset
That being said, I thought we’d revisit those focus on things over which they have some influ- danielle.wecksler@lecreuset.com
secrets of resilience since—as we have proven ence and not spend time on things they cannot (843)-647-9902
time and time again—we Dames are a resilient control. Refocus that energy! Third Vice President
and compassionate group of strong women. They stay healthy. A good diet and regular
BETH VLASICH PAV
We all know that resilience is the ability to Austin Chapter
physical activity provide crucial buffers against Cooking by Design, LLC
rebound quickly from a crisis or trauma. Highly stress. “Exercise literally helps to repair neurons beth@cookingbydesign.com
resilient people don’t fall apart—at least not for in brain areas that are particularly susceptible to (512) 431-8751
long. They somehow call on their inner strength stress,” says Dr. Southwick. Secretary
and recruit outside resources to keep moving They find the silver lining. Somehow, someway, JENNIFER GOLDMAN
forward. They tweak their future expectations to resilient people convert misfortune into good San Antonio Chapter
fit their reality. Bal-Core Business Advisors
luck and gain strength from adversity. It’s often jgoldmansc@gmail.com
According to Yale University’s professor of referred to as post-traumatic growth syndrome. (843) 224-0198
psychiatry Steven M. Southwick, MD, “Resilient So, how resilient are you? Treasurer
people are like trees bending in the wind—they • Are you usually upbeat? STACY ZEIGLER
bounce back.” And recent studies show that cer- • Can you tolerate high levels of ambiguity and Atlanta Chapter
tain genes may protect you against the emotional uncertainty about situations? szeigler1949@yahoo.com
back draft of trauma. “Some people are naturally (678) 938-3196
• Do you adapt quickly to new developments?
more resilient,” says Robert Brooks, Ph.D., from • Can you find humor in rough situations and
Chapter Board Liaisons
Harvard Medical School. laugh at yourself? STEPHANIE JAEGER
“Do the best you can until you know better. British Columbia Chapter
• Do you learn valuable lessons from your ex- Pear Tree Restaurant
Then when you know better, do better.” periences and from the experiences of others? ssjaeger@shaw.ca
—Maya Angelou • Are you good at solving problems? (604) 299-2772
Like most behaviors, however, resilience can • Do you consider yourself strong and durable? INGRID GANGESTAD
also be learned. In fact, some research has shown • Have you been able to or will you be able to Minnesota Chapter
that resilient people share some common quali- convert misfortune into good luck, finding St. Croix Culinary Consulting, LLC
igangestad@comcast.net
ties—ones you can cultivate to master any crisis. benefit in bad experiences? (651) 274-4033
They stay connected. Resilient people rely on If, during these surreal times, you can say yes BONNIE TANDY LEBLANG
others to help them survive tough times. Re- to most of these you are a self-motivated and New York Chapter
search bears out the importance of connection. resilient Dame. Bite of the Best
They are optimistic. People who have a sunny “Gratitude makes sense of our past, brings peace bonnie@bonnietandyleblang.com
outlook do better at managing crises. Don’t fret, for today, and creates a vision for tomorrow.” (203) 887-5455
however, if you lack a “glass half full” point of —Melody Beattie Immediate Past President
view. Negative thinking is just a bad habit and ANN STRATTE
it may take some work to change your mindset. You all make me proud to be a Dame…but Washington, D.C. Chapter
How to change this? Observe the spin you put more important than that, I am humbled and Lobster and Lox LLC
honored to call you my friends. annstratte@gmail.com
on your own experiences and challenge yourself (410) 903-2682
to frame the situation in more positive terms. Executive Director
They’re playful. Resilient people enjoy themselves Bev Shaffer GREG JEWELL
like children do, and most of all they laugh. President, LDEI President, AEC Management Resources
They give back. Remember, the benefit that you Cleveland Chapter Louisville, KY 40204
info@ldei.org
derive for yourself is as great as that you give others. #ldeigratitude (502) 456-1851 x1
S U M M E R Q U A RT E R LY 2 020 3
STANDING STRONG
TOGETHER
Dames Make the World a Better Place
“You may encounter many defeats, but you must not be defeated.
In fact, it may be necessary to encounter the defeats, so you can know who you are,
what you can rise from, how you can still come out of it.” —Maya Angelou
At this moment in history, our lives have changed in unimaginable ways. On March 11th, 2020,
the World Health Organization declared a pandemic as COVID-19, a viral respiratory illness,
spread globally with astounding speed. (COVID-19 is an acronym for COronaVIrus Disease
of 2019.) No one has immunity from this novel (new) coronavirus, so to prevent transmission,
directives were issued to social distance and stay-at-home. Most businesses were shuttered including
restaurants, bars, shops, and schools. To stay well, we implemented best practices for washing
our hands (incessantly) and for properly donning and doffing face masks. Businesses are slowly
reopening with restrictions in place, yet in some places, the infection rate continues to spike.
As a result, Chapter Program news is scarce. In addition to the day-to-day realities of the
coronavirus, many Dames have been dealing with unprecedented business challenges, family
responsibilities, and home schooling. I asked a number of chapters how their members are faring
and if they were staying in touch. Twenty-three chapters responded, and they had a lot to say!
Dames have been figuring out a new work-life balance to provide purpose and maintain a sense
of community. Along with the rest of the world, they’ve been cooking, fermenting foods, and
baking—with flour and yeast flying off grocery shelves and supplies vaporizing from the internet.
Dames have become virtual social butterflies; get-togethers, brunches, educational
classes, and business meetings have pivoted to virtual platforms. Communications
have skyrocketed!
Life is challenging in so many ways, but Dames are doing what they do
best—exhibiting leadership skills by supporting healthcare superheroes,
people in the food service industry, and vulnerable populations. There may
be a lot wrong with the world, but Dames are creating moments of triumph New England Chapter: Irene Li prepares meal
in their everyday acts of humanity, giving, and love.—Susan F. Slack. donations at Mei Mei restaurant. Photo: Irene Li.
BIRMINGHAM DAMES RAISE model for others…creative thinking at its best!
THEIR HANDS TO HELP Idie Hastings, and husband Chris, teamed up
By Martha Johnston with Senator and Mrs. Doug Jones to deliver
meals from OvenBird to the heroes taking care
of COVID-19 patients at St. Vincent’s Hospital.
When the future of food changed earlier this Not only has Kristen Farmer Hall been feeding
spring, Birmingham Dames committed to using workers at several area hospitals, she’s managed
their talents and skills to bring together our to keep The Essential open for pop-ups. Becky
community. We have our Les Dames Virtual Satterfield, owner of Satterfield's Restaurant
Happy Hour each Monday at 5 p.m. where we and El ZunZún, regularly feeds UAB’S Palliative
can see each other, talk, and laugh for a while. It and Comfort Care Unit but also has been send-
keeps us optimistic. ing dinner to healthcare workers.
Leigh Sloss-Corra and her Pepper Place Telia Johnson is making life sweeter for front-
“Don’t Touch Your Face” chocolate cake. Market team got an early start after the Alabama line heroes by dropping off some of her amazing
Photo: Telia Johnson Cakes. Rosie, a shutdown. The traditional market was turned
bartender at El ZunZún, serves margaritas chocolate layer cakes for staff at UAB hospital
responsibly in an outdoor bar space. Photo: into a drive-through operation and kept farmers and firefighters in Homewood including some
Milyn Satterfield Little. in business and customers fed while becoming a decorated with icing that say: “Don’t touch your
4 Les Dames d’Escoffier International
Angie Quaale, in the
face!” Linda Croley contributed baked foreground, and staff
ziti [handmade pasta] and gift bags of deliver meals to first
Bare Naked Noodles products for 650 responders. Photo:
healthcare workers in 35 departments at a Angie Quaale. Sales
from Mireille Sauvé’s
local hospital to take home as a “thanks.” Fundraising Wines are
Debbie Mar was at the forefront of a earmarked for LDEI
local effort that went national. Now all educational scholarships
for BC women in food
Newk’s Eatery locations are teaming up and hospitality. Photo:
with corporate and regular customers to Susan Slack.
get Hero Box Meals to essential work-
ers across the country. Maureen Holt is BRITISH COLUMBIA: now partners with local restaurants, offering
delivering her Southern Graze meals to FUNDRAISING FOR CHARITY their sauces frozen for take-home use. Chris-
the family of a nurse at UAB, feeding her By Karen Dar Woon tine Blackwood’s made-in-Canada uniform
boys and her sister so this healthcare hero company added non-medical cotton masks to
doesn’t have to worry about them. their production in early April.
Rebecca Williamson took her young In British Columbia, a public health order Mireille Sauvé, a chapter past president and
family to box up and deliver food to West in late March closed all liquor-only services, founder of The Wine Umbrella has taken to
End residents. Barbara Gaines Kenyon including winery tasting rooms. Restaurants Self-Isolation Virtual Wine Tasting videos
has created the Happy City Box filled were ordered to offer take away and delivery to keep the buzz alive about the fundrais-
with items from local makers and small services only. Even farm shops were in jeop- ing wines she makes to benefit BC’s Chapter
businesses: Kay Bruno Reed’s delicious Iz ardy. Our members are contributing to their Scholarship Fund. “All we can work with is
Granola is included; Linda Croley’s pasta broader community, whilst juggling work- what we’ve got,” says Mireille, “so if I can’t
is, too. And there are gift cards for Ashley from-home, elder care, childcare, and industry pour wine into people’s glasses, then I guess
McMakin’s tasty Ashley Mac’s foods and consultation. Here is just a small sampling: this is the next best thing.”
Geri-Martha O’Hara’s amazing Big Spoon Angie Quaale, a chapter past co-president and Linda Seifert, owner of Snow Cap Enter-
Creamery ice cream. owner of Well Seasoned: A Gourmet Food Store, prises Ltd., one of BCs leading bakery supply
Pardis Stitt, a restaurateur, along with has provided over 1000 free meals to the Langley distributors, is raising hope through flour
UAB health experts, Jefferson County Memorial Hospital staff. Each week, fresh, sales. A contribution of 25 cents from the sale
Public Health Officials, and industry repre- nutritious meals are distributed weekly to vari- of each bag goes to support the BC Hospital-
sentatives worked to develop Birmingham ous hospital departments and community first ity Foundation (Executive Director Dana
Restaurant Reopening Guidelines to make responders. Angie and her team were prepared Harris) and the Vancouver Food and Beverage
sure customers can feel safe and confident. to cater the sold-out, annual Langley Hospice Community Relief Fund.
Gala, but it was jeopardized by a health order
prohibiting gatherings. A brilliant brainstorm Barb Finley’s Project CHEF offers thousands
BOSTON STRONG resulted in “Plates and Glasses—Gala to Go.” of hours each year of in-class programming
By Amanda Arrigotti-White Leveraging sponsor contributions, Angie created, teaching kids about healthy food. In just a
prepared, and packaged five-course meals, which few short weeks, they produced invaluable
were delivered with a bottle of wine by festively on-line resources for teachers and parents to
As we are unable to connect in person, use at home. Stephanie Jaeger of the PearTree
the Les Dames Boston Chapter has been attired, masked volunteer drivers. Diners were
encouraged to connect with each other via Restaurant contributed expert advice to the
organizing creative ways for members to BC Restaurant and Foodservices Association
connect and lift one another up during this Zoom. Ticket revenues flowed to the Hospice
Society. Kudos to Angie and her team! guidelines for restarting restaurant operations.
time. Zoom happy hours and brunches Sandra Oldfield continues to provide critical
(complete with mimosas and margaritas) Jenice Yu’s retail shops, Fresh Ideas Start health, safety, and operations advice to winer-
have become a new staple in our schedules! Here, remained open as food providers. She ies and beverage operations.
These digital events are an opportunity for
members to support one another, share
local news, and brainstorm new ways we
can stimulate our industries. The Boston
Chapter is also using this time to revamp
digital efforts. We have been planning a
website relaunch that will help us connect
with current and potential members more
effectively. We are also happy to report that
many of our members’ businesses have (L) Tanya Gurrieri of Salthouse Catering (center) provides bagged meals for Charleston hospital workers.
adapted quickly to the changing landscape Kelly Chu of Red Orchids China Bistro also donates meals. Masked chocolate Easter bunnies from
and are open for takeout or delivery. Our Christophe Chocolatiers, owned by Christophe and Carly Paume—Charleston Chapter President.
chapter has been promoting these busi-
nesses to members and partners in an effort CHARLESTON: STRENGTHENING launched Vital Hospitality CHS, a fundraising
to drive traffic to them and support our THE SAFETY NET and service program for COVID-19 recovery.
community through this difficult time. By Susan F. Slack The mission: to provide nourishing, hot
Last but not least, our chapter members meals for frontline medical teams and to
have used this newfound time at home support the local restaurant community in
to create new recipes! From the perfect On March 18, South Carolina required bars this task. Organizer Megan Deschaine —
margarita to delicious sourdough starters, and restaurants to close all in-house services to supported by team members Susan Wigley,
we have found joy in fresh ingredients and combat the COVID-19 virus outbreak. The Amanee Neirouz, Angie DuPree, and Tanya
taste-testing new recipes. Charleston Dames took action in April and Gurrieri—says, “Our goal has been to con-
S U M M E R Q U A RT E R LY 2 020 5
nect the needs of our
front-line heroes with
Charleston’s independent
restaurants. Members
of our chapter contrib-
uted to launching this
program, and we made
way for area residents
and businesses to become
involved.” She adds, “If
there is another spike in
The Chicago Dames connect through Zoom. Photo: Liz Barret. Dame Barbara Glunz (The House of Glunz) created an
the coronavirus, we will “essential” shelter-in-place wine kit. Photo: Barbara Glunz.
be ready. This platform
can be leveraged in CHICAGO: COLLABORATIVE But what we are most proud of is our $5000
the future to provide donation in April to The Lee Initiative, which was
assistance when other
MENTORING
By Liz Barret established by chef and author Edward Lee in 2017
situations arise.” to provide support and mentorship to up-and-comers
Charleston Dames and in our industry. After assessing multiple organizations
Vital Hospitality have Since the pandemic hit with a state-wide, stay-at- to lend our support to, it was clear that this organiza-
distributed hot meals home order on March 20, the Chicago Chapter came tion was filling a huge need in Chicago providing free
and baked goods to first together to adapt to the “new normal.” We imme- meals and other services for restaurant and hospitality
responders throughout diately started scheduling happy hours and other workers in need. And they desperately needed dollars
the Lowcountry hos- events—including our Dames Who Read book club to keep the services flowing.
pital system. Produce, on Zoom. Upon learning of the donation, Chef Lee said, “You
packaging materials, and On June 8, we held our annual business meeting guys rock! I am so touched that your organization
innumerable volunteer on Zoom, and it was great fun with guest speakers is giving us such a generous amount. Cannot thank
hours have also been and prize drawings. The Dames picked up food and you enough. When things smooth over, I would love
donated. By mid-June, beverages at Dame-owned businesses to enjoy during to connect our groups together as we have a mentor
$4,000 had been invested the meeting. program for Women Chefs. Thank you, thank you!”
back into the commu-
nity. Participating Dames
include Kelly Chu (Red
CLEVELAND: CALAMITOUS TIMES
Orchids China Bistro); CALL FOR CALAMITY DAMES
Carrie Morey (Cal- By Beth Davis-Noragon (Chapter Co-President)
lie’s Hot Little Biscuit);
Katherine Frankstone
(Grey Ghost Bakery); Ohio was one of the first states to close all restaurants
Tanya Gurrieri (Salt- and bars (at 9 p.m. on Sunday, March 15, to be exact).
house Catering); Emma Shortly after, our chapter cancelled an educational tea
Lesesne-Booth (Duvall tasting meeting set for the following Sunday, which was
Catering); and Katie to be hosted by Dame Paula Hershman of Storehouse The Cleveland Chapter enjoys a Virtual Happy Hour. Photo:
Hajjir (The Macintosh). Teas. However, we quickly filled the void with our Vir- Beth Davis-Noragon.
Former Dame Wendy tual Happy Hours. Countless Happy Hours later, this “Dames Doing Good.”
Gleim (Wickliffe House) has become the highlight of the week for many of us. Cleveland Dames’ small acts are ripples that touch
and the restaurant Verde We gather for just about an hour, chatting and making many in the process, and providing the micro-grants was
also stepped up to help. sure we are all well. The Virtual Happy Hour, though a natural way to support the LDEI mission. Addition-
Other contributors: Na- superficial, provides an hour-long weekly touchstone. ally, many Dames have stepped up to physically help
thalie Dupree, Danielle But we are reaching out in other ways, too. one another, so the ripples can continue outward to
Wecksler, Helen Mit- In times of calamity, Dames naturally want to help. our first responders. More than one Cleveland Dame
ternight, Lisa Buzelli, The chapter found out that many restaurant-owning has brought groceries (and wine, to be honest) to LDEI
Suzanne Wallace, Julie Dames, despite being closed to all but carry-out, were President Bev Shaffer, helped pack first responder meals,
Shaffer, Melissa Barton, finding ways to provide food for first responders and or picked up protein three-plus hours away in southern
and Andrea Limehouse. procuring funding through public donations and out Ohio, so the Dames Doing Good can focus on the “do-
of their own pockets. The Board decided to divert ing” more than the “how.” The ripple effect allows our
To help support our grant program to three micro-grants, to aid our
Charleston’s social safety little deeds to have a greater impact in the long run.
net, Kelly Franz (on
the cover) generously Meal
donated her entire coro- preparation HAWAII: TRANSFORMING LIVES,
navirus stimulus check to at Touch A
ONE HEART AT A TIME
two charities—the Vital Heart Hawaii
By Kristin Jackson (Chapter Co-President)
Hospitality initiative and foundation.
One80Place, a homeless
services center where Hospitality and tourism make up nearly 21 percent
Angela DuPree (Chapter of Hawaii’s economy. With a current unemployment
Vice President) is the rate of 35 percent, many of the Hawaii Chapter
Director of Operations. Dames are experiencing significant interruptions
6 Les Dames d’Escoffier International
in business. Many of our GREATER MADISON: BELIEVE, INSPIRE, GROW
members have adapted their By Nicole R. Bujewski (Chapter President)
offerings and services to en-
able them to continue operat-
ing, albeit at a greatly reduced I've been a member of the Chicago Chapter for some time and have met wonderful women in all
profit. areas of food and beverage. Recently, my husband and I moved to the Greater Madison area, and I
Robin Kumabe runs a thought I'd simply transfer my membership to the Madison Chapter. Surprise—a chapter did not
foundation called Touch A exist! I told a fellow Dame my dilemma and she suggested that I just start a chapter. Well, that would
Heart Hawaii. It provides have been easy, but I didn't know one person in Madison, so how should I start? Like the snowball
informal social services, men- effect, when you tell one person, you end up with 19 women who are interested in founding and form-
torship and tutoring, meals ing a new chapter! In 2019, Kara Bresnahan, Susan Parenti, Pamela Reardon and I began to reach
to homeless individuals and out to the amazing women of Madison. At the eleventh hour on December 15, 2019, our applica-
families, as well as a food ser- tion to LDEI was submitted. On March 6, 2020, the Greater Madison Chapter was established. In
vices training and apprentice celebration, we planned to gather at the Wisconsin State Capitol building for a photo followed by a
program that uses underuti- Champagne toast at our very own, Andrea Hillsey’s Square Wine Co. and then...well, you know the
lized commercial kitchens. rest. With respect to social distancing, we used this time to organize and gather our thoughts on how
As a result of the COVID-19 to pioneer our chapter. What should it feel like? What do we want to experience? What do we offer to
crisis, the Kupuna & Family our dynamic members? How do we give back to our community, farmers, restaurants, food establish-
Meal Program has recently ments, and to all of the others that make Madison, Wisconsin, a food destination? We are just now
been implemented. It is a beginning to fill in these blanks and have created a communications committee that features a member
weekly meal service helping spotlight. Our first highlight, Liz Griffith of Door Creek Orchard shared with us how her business has
those who are having dif- adapted to the pandemic. Liz also recently shared her story at the LDEI Virtual Brunch event in June.
ficulty accessing food, as well The Madison Dames plan to really "kick-off" later this summer! Stay tuned!
provide on-the-job training
to our culinary students and
employment for our graduate
apprentices, while limiting KENTUCKY: FEEDING THE Our member farmers, including Capriole (Judy
contact as much as possible. HEARTLAND Schad), Craig's Creek (Penryn Craig), Foxhollow
By Susan Reigler (Chapter President) Farm (Maggie Keith), Freedom Run (Valerie Samu-
Dawn Sakamoto Paiva has tin), Rivercrest (Hollis Willig) and Spade & Table
partnered with a local videog- Farms (Lisa Windhorst)—variously supplying meat,
rapher to offer free one-min- dairy, and vegetable producers—are finding ways to get
ute videos for our members Kentucky Dame-owned businesses are
still helping feed the public during this very food to the community either through the donation
to promote or advertise their of products, direct sales, or the creation of produce
businesses. stressful time. In Louisville, curbside meal
pickups are provided by LDKY-owned Bras- subscription services.
As a chapter, we have shifted serie Provence (Stacy Duncan), Farm to Fork Advanced sommelier Julie DeFriend and executive
our quarterly Salon Series Café and Catering (Sherry Hurley), Lilly’s bourbon steward Susan Reigler have been conducting
of workshops into an online Kentucky Bistro (Kathy Cary), and Noosh virtual tastings of wine and spirits. So, even if we don’t
offering, presenting speakers Nosh (Paula Barmore). Ouita Michel has get out much like the famously reclusive poet Emily
who can give advice on every- created take-out menus for Holly Hill Inn and Dickenson, the Kentucky Dames are still busy! And we
thing from adapting their busi- her other Lexington-area restaurants. send very best wishes to all our members worldwide.
ness models to how to apply
for loans and assistance. We
are holding monthly Pau Hana
(after work) Zoom sessions LONDON: STAY STRONG &
to provide an open forum for CARRY ON
members to network, social-
ize, and just “talk story” about
how they are and if they need A nationwide shutdown in the UK began March 23 to
anything from one another. stop the coronavirus spread. Edible London—one of LDE
Social media will be utilized to London’s major fundraisers—was scheduled for May but
highlight individual members has been postponed until next year. Chapter Secretary/
and celebrate their achieve- Treasurer Sue Carter wrote, “It has been quite a wild ride
ments and milestones. getting everything unraveled, but we’re at the point
It is so important for us all where we can mothball it for several months.” Happily,
to know we’re in this together, the new dates have been set for 2021, which encom-
and that we are all resources passes three consecutive tours: Galway, Ireland, May
for each other during this 6-10; London, May 12-17; and the Cotswolds, May 17-
challenging time. 21. Sue, President Jacqui Pickles, and Anne Dolamore
will send updates in the fall.
The Hawaiian cultural expres- The London event will include a day trip to the
sion “talk story” means connect- renowned School of Artisan Food at Welbeck in Not-
ing through authentic conversa- tinghamshire. Dame Alison Swan Parente, founder of the RN Sara Danesin, in nursing scrubs, is chef/
tions to share experiences and school and lady of the Manor at Welbeck Abbey, will be
owner of the popular Sara @St John’s in
learn from each other. It builds York—a cathedral town in North Yorkshire,
there to welcome guests. An activity-filled visit to the school England. She is also shown as a contestant in
upon the aloha spirit and bonds was one memorable highlight of Edible London 2018. MasterChef 2011. Photos: Sara Danesin.
friends for life.—Editor.
S U M M E R Q U A RT E R LY 2 020 7
In a charity update, Sue says MINNESOTA: WORKING TO
the chapter donated the net RELIVE HUNGER
proceeds from their International By Joan Donatelle (Chapter Co-President)
Women’s Day event to The Felix
Project, which is a food rescue.
The surplus food is distributed After our first few successful virtual meetings,
to charities that feed vulnerable we decided to continue on…to strengthen the
people. They also donated to bonds of culinary sisterhood during this difficult
“Refettorio Felix, a community time! Thanks to the organizing skills of Amalia
kitchen with restaurant-style Moreno-Damgaard and Liz Nerud, Dames are
service. Sue adds, “It offers a safe connecting through virtual Coffee Breaks, Happy
Mexico Dame Veronica Castro. The Sonrisa del
space with a daily three-course Mar coffee (origin: Veracruz and Puebla) is from Hours, and other meetings.
meal to those who need it the her brand, Café Diamansol, which works to On April 10, Liz led the Dames in a virtual dis-
most. This is one of celebrated, support other Mexican women in the industry. cussion about Julia Child’s life. During an April
Italian Chef Massimo Bottura’s 14 Coffee Break, we discussed Julia’s recipes and
Refettorie…We were able to give MEXICO: SUPPORTING the ways we were influenced by them. Minnesota
them £500 each which, given the WOMEN Dames who personally knew Julia shared memo-
current circumstances, is just a By Marie Gómez-Laurens (Mexico ries of her at a virtual Happy Hour on April 24.
drop in the ocean when so many Chapter; San Diego Chapter president) Amalia led a virtual celebration of Cinco de Mayo
more people are now falling off in May to discuss heritage, culture, and cuisine
a financial cliff…We would have with two special guests: Mexico Dames Araceli
increased our donations to both The Mexico Chapter has been deal- Ramos (chapter president) and Veronica Castro.
[charities] out of the Edible Lon- ing with the COVID-19 virus in ways A May 22 Virtual Happy Hour featured Famiglia
don proceeds, but that is a pipe similar to other chapters. In June, Meschini wines from Mendoza Argentina. Owner
dream—for now.” Mexico Dames hosted a video confer- Teresa Meschini, a Minnesota resident, shared
Sue says ever since the dec- ence focused on “Mindful Eating During her story. A June virtual event featured a moder-
laration to “stay at home” the the Pandemic.” Veronica Castro is one ated panel discussion on how Minnesota Dames
London Dames have been doing of the founding members of the LDEI “shifted gears” as a result of the pandemic.
just that. Individual members Mexico Chapter. She has been incred- As the global pandemic reached Minnesota,
are helping within their com- ibly involved in helping other women Dames Heidi Andermack, Amy Brown, and
munities. Some are blogging and in the coffee industry such as the coffee Emily Paul started an impressive program to
teaching or doing demos virtu- growers and roasters, as well as working prepare and package meals for the hungry. Part-
ally. The Dames have met several to regulate fair pay. Café Diamansol, nering with Second Harvest Heartland, Heidi
times through Zoom calls. At the her company, has seen a decrease in the and Amy turned their Chowgirls Killer Catering
moment, the London Chapter amount of coffee sold, however, she is kitchens into Minnesota Central Kitchen. Emily,
has only one Dame restaurateur. still maintaining minimum orders and is the Managing Director of Minnesota Central
Busy Dame Sara Danesin, a able to make certain that these women Kitchen, was inspired by humanitarian and
2011 Master Chef finalist and receive pay. chef José Andrés. The program puts furloughed
owner of York’s first Supper Club, Veronica’s exceptional coffee has been restaurant chefs to work and rescues food before
is also a Registered Nurse at the featured at events during The Flavors it becomes waste. Minnesota Dames contributed
“Royal Free,” a major teaching of Mexico. For additional information, the remaining $1,500 of their Micro-Grant funds
hospital in the London Borough you can email Veronica at emailventas@ to this important endeavor.
of Camden, where she has been diamansol.com.—Editor.
working on the front line. “My
experience as a nurse during the
pandemic was very challenging NASHVILLE: THE POWER OF We have been feeling our way, and staying con-
and intense,” confides Sara. “I DAMES IN ACTION nected at a distance. (Social media has played
worked on both acute medical By Nancy Vienneau (Chapter President) a key role.) We’ve been sharing information on
and intensive care departments how to help one another: who is providing take-
experiencing firsthand the sheer out/curbside service, gift cards, grocery boxes,
force of COVID-19 on patients This March, Nashville experienced a one-two CSAs, and merchandise. Who is teaching online
and their families, as well as on punch: a catastrophic tornado on the 3rd of cooking classes and giving online demos. How
all frontliners and the National March followed, two weeks later, by the shut- hospitality workers can get aid.
Health Service (NHS) system down necessitated by the COVID-19 virus. In We’ve held board meetings on Zoom and have
as a whole.” As a result, Sara the storm’s aftermath, our chapter mobilized Dame Virtual Happy Hours to provide fellowship.
secured a permanent position as quickly: We passed out hot coffee, biscuits, and When it becomes safe, we plan to return to The
staff nurse on critical care. She churros to first responders in East Nashville. Nashville Food Project and Second Harvest Food
adds, “Of course this will not We organized, prepared, and served a hot buffet Bank to assist—hands on—with hunger relief
prevent me from pursuing some lunch for 1000 in a hard-hit neighborhood of initiatives. And we will be turning our attention
of my chef consultant streams of North Nashville. We made 1000 box lunches that to our own members whose livelihoods have been
work including monthly supper Second Harvest Food Bank delivered to a devas- damaged by the economic shutdown. We are
club events, and private teaching tated rural community. We provided hot meals dedicating a portion of our scholarship monies
and catering.” We all send our for the Red Cross Disaster Relief Shelter. We that fund our Career Advancement Grants to
heartfelt thanks to Sara for her even bought a new refrigerator for a neighbor- helping them. And we’ll find other ways support
dedication and selfless service to hood food pantry. After March 17, the pandemic and promote one another, as “the new normal”
the greater community—Susan forced us to put that outreach on hold. continues to unfold.
Slack, Editor
8 Les Dames d’Escoffier International
NEW ORLEANS INSPIRES
COMMUNITY SPIRIT
By Beth D’Addono
Forget about winter, this was indeed the spring of our discontent. March 17 marked
the closing of all live music venues, bars, and restaurants in New Orleans, a city pow-
ered by the voracious engine of tourism, which immediately sputtered to a gasping
halt. Restaurants able to pivot, where allowed, offered curbside takeout and delivery
including beer and wine—but inexplicably, not cocktails. Like each of you, we’ve
been treading water in uncharted seas.
New Orleanians are nothing if not resilient. We’ve survived hurricanes, oil spills,
floods, and recessions. Ok, this is our first pandemic, but it is downright awesome
the way our Dames and the hospitality community are responding with kindness and
generosity to help service workers, chefs, and restaurant owners make it through.
King Arthur Flour® contributed flour to Joanne Chang’s
bakeries so they could produce bread to donate to Leighann Smith donated her amazing beef hotdogs to one of the weekly Bloak
Boston area food pantries and shelters. Photo: Joanne Saturdays from the team at Blue Oak BBQ—they’ve been offering free weekly (daily
Chang. on Jazz Fest days) community lunches, drive-thru style, at a warehouse near the
restaurant.
NEW ENGLAND’S GIVING
KITCHENS Chaya Conrad managed to keep Bywater Bakery open and a limited number of
staff employed by selling bread to Rouse’s supermarkets, a local, family-owned grocery
chain. She opened a takeout window for a few hours a day to give neighborhood folks
The New England Dames have stayed in touch the chance to have fresh bread and much-needed treats. She donates bread to local
virtually during the coronavirus pandemic while food pantries and manages to give back countless ways as she struggles to keep her
providing outreach services to those in need. Nancy business going.
Matherson-Burns owns Dole & Bailey Food Hub in Feed the Frontline Nola was a brilliant initiative founded by the Mardi Gras Krewe
Woburn, Mass. The company worked seamlessly to of Red Beans.* It raised and spent up to $30,000 a day feeding more than 1,900 hos-
put creative solutions into action for all their business pital workers, while supporting more than 35 local NOLA restaurants—53 percent
segments that remained operational. The framework women owned and 31 percent minority owned. It also provided jobs for 25 local mu-
of the Home Delivery program shifted from chef- sicians to deliver the food. Dames-related restaurants involved in this and other give-
centric products to home cooks, with items being back efforts include Justine, Saba, Commander’s Palace, Toup’s Eatery, Copeland’s
packaged in more manageable sizes. The company Family of Restaurants, Cochon Butcher. A sister initiative is Feed the Second Line.
assists Lydia’s House of Hope, a shelter for women
in New Hampshire. Working with Lovin’ Spoonfuls Emily Shaya and her husband, Chef Alon Shaya, have been providing 500-600
(a food rescue), a weekly food donation program has meals a week to Tulane-affiliated hospitals for their residents, doctors, nurses, and
been created to target homeless shelters, food pan- staff. Her famous red beans and rice is served on Mondays to Feed the Frontline; 500-
tries, domestic violence agencies, senior centers, soup plus meals have been funded by other local businesses.
kitchens, and school programs with sourcing from Caroline Rosen, executive director of Tales of the Cocktail®, and her team spear-
local farms, distributors, and retailers. headed a $200,000 foundation fundraising effort to assist bartenders and service
Irene Li is the chef/owner of Boston’s Mei Mei, workers affected by the pandemic around the world.
a farm-to-table Chinese-American restaurant. She Beth D’Addono’s business—writing about restaurants, New Orleans, travel, and
is a six-time nominee for James Beard’s Rising Star hosting tourists in her home—essentially disappeared overnight with only a question
Chef award. The coronavirus pandemic was a call to mark as to when it will all be back. She has been volunteering with the Blue Oak
action for Irene. Her humanitarian projects include BBQ team to feed gig and hospitality workers.
launching the Unsung Restaurants Fund to assist Our Nola Dames are tough! We will move forward, and by the time we host Dames
immigrant restaurants and joining the grassroots from other chapters for our fundraising weekend—whenever that is—we will have
organization Off Their Plate to lead a grocery pro- plenty to share. Please know that we are thinking of each of you.
gram for healthcare workers. She donates regularly
on behalf of her staff members to organizations of *The Mardi Gras Krewe of Red Beans is known for its elaborate costumes
their choosing. Irene has been teaching dumpling beaded with red beans, rice, lentils, peas, bay leaves, and other items.—Editor.
classes virtually, guiding students at home who are
using their own ingredients or Mei Mei’s dumpling-
making kits.
Joanne Chang is the owner of Flour Bakery+Café
in Boston and Cambridge. The James Beard award-
winning chef (Outstanding Baker) gives back to the
community in numerous ways including monthly
donations to non-profits such as No Kid Hungry,
the Massachusetts Bail Fund, and the Greg Hill
Foundation’s Restaurant Strong Fund. Joanne adapt-
ed her business model to create a central production
kitchen for her eight bakeries. She offers DIY food
and baking kits to help get through social distanc- Pastry Chef Chaya Conrad stands behind Bywater Bakery’s counter. Two specialties: King Cake
ing, and she has been creating weekly instructional (with eight variations) and Berry Chantilly Cake, Chaya’s version of the iconic namesake cake she
videos for baking projects. created for Whole Foods. Blue Oak Barbecue takeout. Photos: Beth D'Addono.
S U M M E R Q U A RT E R LY 2 020 9
Barbara
Sibley,
PARIS POSTCARD
chef- By Jane Bertch (Past President)
owner of
La Palapa.
Photo: During the difficult time of COVID-19, the Paris Chapter has been uniting
Barbara to share information and resources. Despite the challenging times, a number of
Sibley.
the members have used ingenuity to quickly transition their work and business-
es—a few wonderful examples are listed below.
Caroline Conner in Lyon quickly responded by moving her Wine tasting
experiences online, providing free virtual wine tastings. She initiated the process
of creating a membership site where people can learn about wine. Her launch
was May 14th.
NEW YORK: ON THE FRONT LINE Viktorija Todorovska from Nice, a certified sommelier and wine scholar, has
By Margaret Happel Perry transitioned to hosting virtual wine tastings for her clients, and she has begun
to host wine tastings with Top Nosh, a platform that connects people with
experts for virtual wine and culinary learning experiences.
In the midst of the COVID-19 maelstrom, the New
York Dames re-discovered the eternal truth that by Rosa Jackson in Nice has started hosting online cooking classes. In a wonder-
helping others we help ourselves. Even before the cur- ful partnership, she and Viktorija Todorovska have been taking students on a
rent president, Sharon Franke, sent out her April letter virtual Culinary Tour de France each Saturday, with a menu and dessert from
to rally LDNY members, many had seized the initiative eight different French regions plus wine recommendations. Join them on Rosa’s
to reach out to the most deserving and neediest people website.
of our communities. Forest Collins, of the popular 52Martinis blog, is a Paris-based cocktail
Providing food was a priority. Marie Loi and her expert. She has pivoted her Podcast to focus on highlighting those in the food
Loi Estiastorio team catered and delivered meals to world that have been impacted by the coronavirus crisis. Listen to the Podcasts
frontline healthcare workers at hospitals all over the at Forest’s website.
city as well as giving help to the homeless and elderly.
Similarly, by April 15, Barbara Sibley and her La
Palapa family provided over 2,100 meals to Mount
PHILADELPHIA: HELPING products through A Culture Factory,
HANDS FOR HEROES and Maryann Baldassarre shifted
Sinai Hospital. Cathy Fazzolari took advantage of the her Golden Valley Farms Coffee and
resources of her family’s business, D. Coluccio and By Jill Weber (Chapter President)
Artisan’s Exchange—with its commu-
Sons, and generously donated lunch to doctors, nurses, nity of producers—to home delivery.
and hospital staff at Long Island Jewish Hospital where Heather Thomason’s Primal Supply is
Cathy’s daughter is a nurse. Philly Dames have kept busy! Chari-
table funding for meal donations is busy selling meat, and also Ann Kar-
Surbi Sahni of Tagmo Treats partnered with the currently quite strong, and Michele len’s Third Wheel Cheese; look for
New York City Department for the Aging to deliver Leff’s 12th St. Catering, Ellen Yin’s Lisa Calvo’s Sweet Amalia’s Oysters to
thousands of meals to elderly New Yorkers. In addition, High Street on Market, and Jill be retail-based soon! Another pivot?
LDNY members contributed to a fund for ‘pay-it- Weber’s Café Ynez have been making Jennifer Kirby now feeds humans at
forward’ meals for frontline medical workers at New daily deliveries to the area’s hospi- Piggyback Treats!
York-Presbyterian Hospital as well as to people in need. tals, care facilities, and underserved Our chapter has a series of social
Looking to the future in times of hardship is essential. communities. Samantha Kincaid’s workshops—Virtual LesDamesPHL,
LDNY’s scholarship program is the yearly mission of the Cadence is offering its kitchen for and individual Dames are also active,
society. Supporting students to continue their education commissary work benefitting undocu- virtually. Tune into Instagram Live
this year became more important than ever as we awarded mented workers, and Sam is also help- with Alexis Siemons for #teawithshe;
17 scholarships worth more than $80,000. Thanks to the ing other local producers make their “Saturday Morning with Pat” on Face-
leadership of May Matta-Aliah and Janet McCracken own pivots. Many Dames transitioned book Live with Patricia Nogar; and
along with the electronic miracle of Zoom, the commit- from wholesale to retail—Olga Sorza- the Teaspoon of Spice Facebook page
tee met virtually and selected a slate of most impressive no offers curbside pickup to consum- for weekly, live cooking demos with
winners. Of major importance, was the establishment of ers of her Baba’s Bucha and other local Deanna Segrave-Daly. Best wishes
a new scholarship called L’Etoile—The Star— given by from Philly.
an exceptionally generous person who wishes to remain
anonymous. For the next ten years, $10,000 will be SACRAMENTO
awarded to each L’Etoile winner. Here is our future!
BOOSTS VIRTUAL
Encouraging self-care in the face of adversity proved COMMUNICATIONS
essential. Two virtual happy hours at the end of March, By Debbie Arrington
including stories of survival, eased stress and boosted
morale. In mid-April, Kathryn Gordon, with her su-
perb baking knowledge, held a Q&A session. She was For our April virtual happy hour,
followed later in the month with Amy Zavotto reading Sacramento Chapter members donned
from her book, Prosecco Made Me Do It and demon- hats from around the world (and en-
strating a bubbly recipe for her Dance Party cocktail. In joyed an equally wide range of bever-
hard times, LDNY affirmed the truth of Camus’ words, ages) as they Zoomed in and caught up The Sacramento Chapter hosts a virtual
“In the midst of winter, I found there was within me an with each other during what undoubt- happy hour—“international party time
invincible summer.” edly will be a spring no one will forget. with creative cocktails and hats from
around the world.”
10 Les Dames d’Escoffier InternationalTo offer future seminars and SAN ANTONIO: COOKING UP
workshops online, our chapter SOLUTIONS FOR HUNGER
created its own YouTube chan- By Nichole Bendele
nel (Les Dames Sacramento). (Chapter President)
Our first content is now in
production.
How do you host a dinner for Our members in the food, wine, and hospitality
350 guests during the coronavi- business—like other Dames across the nation—
rus restrictions? With the help of have been economically hit hard by the pandemic
their committee, Rachael Levine as “stay-at-home” rules have been put in place to
and Elise Bauer, the co-chairs flatten the curve on the COVID-19 virus spread. Curbside pizza from San Antonio’s Pharm Table.
of our annual Village Feast, are Elizabeth Johnson’s unique, farm-to-table restaurant
converting this major fundraiser Our chapter has been promoting #Restau- features healthy plant-focused cuisine enlivened by a
rantRelief and #EatLocal to inform the public that global spice pantry. Photo: Pharm Table.
to a socially distanced, safe, and
still fun format including a live while their favorite restaurant is closed for inside
online auction. Set for Septem- dining, they can still purchase orders through groceries, so she shopped for them and began a
ber 12, the Feast may be split curbside pickup or have them delivered, (i.e., mobile farmers market for the neighborhood. She
among several outdoor locations UberEats and DoorDash), or purchase Gift Cards connected with her farmer friends and located
to conform with California to use at a later date. We’ve also been helping lo- additional farmers through other Dame members.
regulations, but will be linked cal food pantries and identifying crisis needs and The neighbors are able to get food they need, and
virtually. (During that expected shortfalls in our community. the farmers can continue selling their produce.
phase of reopening, gatherings For example, Rashin Mazaheri noticed some Crystal Dady and her chef husband cooked meals
are limited to 50.) Last year’s charitable organizations pulling back on their food for hospitality workers who lost employment. Mar-
Village Feast raised more than deliveries to elderly, disabled, homeless people due ty Gonzalez learned about the medical community
$16,000 for scholarships. to the city’s “stay-at-home” order as well as the fact mask shortage, so she gathered several seamstresses
In an effort spearheaded by that volunteers are older and in the “at risk” age and sewed masks for medical and other frontline
Ann Evans, LDEI Sacramento group for COVID-19. Rashin began making and workers. Elizabeth Johnson appeared on 60 Min-
awarded scholarships during the delivering food. She mentioned the need to our utes on June 7 to discuss the challenge of reopen-
pandemic as part of a new part- Dames, so members have been helping cover the ing businesses and easing restrictions imposed to
nership with UC Davis’ Viticul- gap as the city moves the displaced people to the combat spread of coronavirus.
ture and Enology Department. shelter of empty hotels. There are also many other San Antonio Dames
Future winemakers Victoria Dames have also been helping the commu- working together behind the scenes to help our
Roberts and Mackenzie Davis nity independently of the chapter. Dion Turner community in need. We are all in this together, and
each received $1,000. noticed neighbors at risk that weren’t able to get together, we will all get through the pandemic.
SEATTLE DAMES CARE AND SHARE tion totals almost $10,000!
By Alice G. Forman (Chapter President) Birthdays usually mean gifts for you, but not in
this case. Lisa Nakamura initiated a birthday fun-
draiser via No Kid Hungry raising funds to help
“Women [like Seattle Dames] are like tea bags. feed vulnerable kids.
We don’t know our strength until we are in hot
water.” —Eleanor Roosevelt (bracketed words from Alice) Bloggers Cynthia Nims, Linda Burner Augus-
tine, and Sheri Wetherell are each inspiring read-
One of the things Seattle Dames do so well is sense ers with words and recipes that bring comfort and
of community. . . reaching out to friends, neigh- satisfaction. Kat (Kathleen) Flinn and Meredith
bors, colleagues, our scholarship recipients, as well Abbott have been generating online culinary video
as each other, with a caring mindset and hope. content. Meredith creates recipe and meal-plan-
Leslie Mackie, founder of Macrina Bakery and ning content for her employer, Sur La Table.
Café, says all five locations are open for takeout. While school classrooms are closed, Diana Dil-
She sees positives going forward with the creation lard and Kim Smith have adapted to teaching
of innovative new products to help customers online, and Bridget Charters is home-schooling
and bring in new business. The company donated four boys rather than teaching adults culinary
care packages throughout April to local hospitals skills. As interest in home gardening accelerates,
in gratitude for their service. Customers joined garden educator Cheri Bloom is sharing pertinent
in the effort with resounding acclaim. Leslie and garden pointers for local Dames and friends.
Marcina are working now with local suppliers to
make 7,200 fresh baked treats for FareStart’s mas- Business hasn’t stopped for Breanna Beike’s
Scott France, president of Macrina sive community feeding program. Partner Barry Woodinville restaurant, Heritage, but takeout is
Bakery, and founder Leslie Mackie with Callebaut Chocolate, represented by Marcia now the name of the game until she reopens. She
care packages headed to a local Seattle Sisley-Berger, is donating 450 pounds of choco- has provided meals for the local hospital and a care
hospital. The bakery donated 900 care center in Kirkland.
packages and their customers donated
late to the effort. Medosweet Farms and Merlino
400. Photo: Macrina Bakery. One Foods are supplying key ingredients—eggs, Woodinville’s Ste. Michelle Wine Estates, the
iconic Market Box at Pike Place Market butter, shortening, sugar. Macrina is providing workplace for Kari Leitch and Linda Chauncey,
(bottom R) is the Seattle Solidarity Box flour and other ingredients along with labor and
with products from local Black-owned baking skills. The wholesale value of this dona- CONTINUED on page 30
food businesses. Photo: Angela Shin.
S U M M E R Q U A RT E R LY 2 020 11BY PAT COBE
TRENDS (CHICAGO AND
NEW YORK)
HOW A
VIRUS
Changed the Family meal grilling kit. Cocktail kit. Photos: Pat Cobe
Restaurant Industry mixology. Along with a number of other
restaurant chefs, bartenders and bakers,
–Maybe Forever they posted these on Instagram Live,
a free platform that turned out to be
a good marketing tool. Commander’s
As coronavirus spread across the U.S., restaurants had to Palace in New Orleans held virtual wine
change course in a matter of days. Dine-in operations shut and cheese tastings. Guests purchased
down in most states, employees were furloughed or perma- the package, the goods were delivered
nently laid off and restaurateurs had to scramble to come up through contactless delivery, and the
with anything that would keep their businesses afloat. “Piv- chef led a themed tasting on Zoom.
ot to survive” was the industry-wide mantra. Some decided Chicago Dame Sarah Stegner, chef-
to close down and wait it out in an effort to keep workers owner of Prairie Grass Café in North-
safe and allow them to collect unemployment benefits. But brook, Illinois, combined these ideas
others forged ahead, meeting this unprecedented challenge and more to keep guests engaged and
with innovation and outside-the-box ideas. revenue coming in. During the quar-
antine, she offered meals for curbside
THE NEW FACE OF FULL-SERVICE pickup, focusing on one signature each
Those that stayed open pivoted to curbside pickup and day to ease operations for her skeletal
contactless delivery with meals targeted at housebound kitchen staff. She also created special
consumers. With smaller kitchen staffs, most restaurants to-go menus for Easter, Passover, and
pared down their menus and focused on best sellers or a Mother’s Day. She sold pizza kits for
couple of choices each night. Even Michelin-starred eateries kids and even set up a cooking hotline
such as Alinea in Chicago and Manresa in San Francisco for home cooks to call for recipe advice.
transitioned into meals to go. Managers helped expedite orders. “I
But a new category emerged in restaurants of every price wanted the community to have con-
range: family meals geared to diners quarantining at home. tinuing access to the restaurant so there
From burger chains like Shake Shack to fine-dining spots would be a restaurant on the other end
like Boka, these dinner packages took off for takeout. Let- [of the pandemic],” she says. Sarah now
tuce Entertain You restaurant group in Chicago tapped helps farmers who are food suppliers
several of its concepts to launch Lettuce Take Care of You, a to restaurants but have pivoted to sell Crisp, breaded portobello
meal subscription service that offered three meals each for a mushrooms from River Valley Ranch
directly to families. Organic, MightyVine tomatoes,
family of four with options from such renowned restaurants Klug Farm asparagus, Capriole
as Aba and RPM Steak. THE RESTAURMART—A goat cheese sauce. Spring onions
To add an interactive element to dinner, a number of WORKABLE HYBRID? and garlic chive butter penne pasta
places introduced family meal kits composed of raw and/ When grocery stores began running out with Klug Farm asparagus. The
of supplies and restaurants had surpluses pasta meal went to the p.m. shift
or partially prepared ingredients. Families who sheltered at Chicago’s Swedish Covenant
together could order kits to make pizza, tacos, Asian rice from decreased traffic and well stocked Hospital. Photos: Sarah Stegner.
bowls, brunch, sushi, pasta and more, rolling mealtime and foodservice distributors, a number of op-
an activity into one package. erators converted their spaces
Cocktail kits and wine-to-go also gained popularity, as into grocery stores. Toilet
42 states relaxed their laws around off-premises alcohol paper was the hottest com-
delivery. Restaurants started pairing the kits with the modity at first, but soon they
menu—margaritas with a taco bar, Aperol spritzes with were peddling restaurant-
a picnic box or mimosas with brunch—which not only quality steaks, fresh produce
boosted revenue but kept customers engaged. Restaurants and dairy products, specialty
put together Date Night packages for those who wanted to condiments and even the
cook together—even remotely—and motivated guests to restaurant’s signature
post their dates on social media. sauces, side dishes, and
Videos were another tool of engagement for many. desserts. Broadline food
Cooper’s Hawk chef Matt McMillin and sommelier Emily distributor Sysco helped op-
Wines produced videos of cooking demos and cocktail erators set up these popup retail markets Fresh produce box
12 Les Dames d’Escoffier InternationalYou can also read
