BACKCOUNTRY A New Dawn? - PLUS: FMC's election guide - KiwiShare - NZ Alpine Club
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BACKCOUNTRY Number 220 June 2020 Quarterly bulletin of the Federated Mountain Clubs A New Dawn? PLUS: FMC’s election guide – KiwiShare
Photo by Neil Kerr. Fraser McDougall & Sam Smoothy in the Richardson Mountains, New Zealand. For over twenty-five years Bivouac Outdoor has been proudly 100% New Zealand owned, and committed to providing you with the best outdoor clothing and equipment available in the world. Gear to keep you dry, warm and safe either in-bounds, sidecountry or backcountry this season. Ski, board and gear hire plus full workshop and servicing facilities available this season at our Tower Junction (Christchurch) store. STORES NATIONWIDE OFFICIAL GEAR SUPPLIER www.bivouac.co.nz
BACKCOUNTRY is published four times a year by the Federated Mountain Clubs of New Zealand (Inc.), Wellington. www.fmc.org.nz It is free to this issue members of affiliated clubs. ISSN 2537-8376 (Print) ISSN 2537-8384 (Online) 04 PRESIDENT’S COLUMN CONTENT AND SUBMISSIONS 10 NOTICE BOARD The editorial direction of Backcountry is to provide a forum for the expression of opinions and for news and debate on matters of interest to those who use 12 LETTERS New Zealand’s public lands. Opinions expressed in Backcountry do not necessarily reflect those of 14 A TRIBUTE TO ARNOLD HEINE Federated Mountain Clubs or of affiliated clubs. Contributions should be submitted to backcountry@ 18 REMEMBERING JIM GILKISON fmc.org.nz. Photos should be .tif or .jpeg files between 1MB and 5MB. See www.fmc.org.nz for 21 DR MIKE FLOATE more detailed information. The final content of Backcountry is decided by the editor. An executive committee chaired by the President of FMC will 22 OUTDOOR COMMUNITY consider concerns relating to published items. Regional leadership development 24 Email the editorial subcommittee, eo@fmc.org.nz. Editor: Peter Laurenson, The NZDA: A kindred organisation peter.laurenson@fmc.org.nz, tel 021 446 725 Advertising: Dan Clearwater, adverts@fmc.org.nz, tel 021 215 7059 26 A NEW DAWN? Design: Jo Kinley, Hullaballoo Design, Recreation transition www.hullaballoo.co.nz Copyediting: Juliet Oliver, julieto@xtra.co.nz 28 EVs for mountain recreation FMC CONTACT DETAILS: General enquiries: Danilo Hegg, 32 Environmentally friendly in print danilo.hegg@fmc.org.nz, tel 027 339 2688 Membership and Backcountry distribution: 35 KiwiShare 2020 Election Guide Rebecca Gray, administrator@fmc.org.nz, tel 022 1640 288 39 Quick Backcountry Insight Supporters of FMC: Individuals may become supporters of FMC for $45 annually. Supporters receive Backcountry and the FMC Discount Card, 40 FMC TRAVEL CLUB which offers discounts including FMC maps and books and a DOC Backcountry Hut Pass. 43 WEATHER WINDOW Supporters also get regular email updates. Annual Subscription to Backcountry is available 46 PHOTOGRAPHY to organisations and libraries (but not individuals) for $30 (overseas $40). 48 TENURE REVIEW Backcountry is printed using vegetable-based inks on Sumo Gloss & Matt, a chlorine-free and acid- 50 ACCIDENTS free paper, sourced from a sustainably managed Separating from your gear plantation forest. Deadline for contributions Deadline for 52 ACCIDENTS contributions for the August 2020 Backcountry is 19 June 2020 (send copy to: backcountry@fmc.org. The danger of assumptions nz). It should be distributed to clubs by mid-August 2020. The copy deadline for the November 2020 56 UNCLE JACKO’S COOKERY CORNER issue is 14 September 2020. 25 years on 60 REVIEWS Follow us at www.facebook.com/fmcnz An online space for NZ’s outdoor community. Find out what’s happening in our backcountry, with news, views COVER Looking east from Fanthams Peak to Mounts Tongariro, Ngāuruhoe and Ruapehu, a climber and ‘how-tos’, on all things outdoors. contemplates the dawn of a new day Photo: Peter www.wilderlife.nz Laurenson, www.occasionalclimber.co.nz 3
President’s Column JAN FINLAYSON, FMC PRESIDENT recreation and tourism, and more broadly, to reaffirm, reconsider, restore, remove, and New dawns create anew as appropriate. Every day’s a new universe. Most are so The Government and DOC got straight like the one before, you carry on as usual; into considering just those things. Present but occasionally, dawn brings something messaging from them is that they have a so different, you’re forced to reassess real appetite for cracking into recreation everything you do. The eastern horizon has infrastructure works and getting people out been electric with change in the last few there enjoying nature. In principle, this is months. real cause for celebration. It began with the February tempest There are enormous opportunities to that chucked southwestern South Island restore forgotten recreation infrastucture infrastructure left and right. Along with and create new basic trails (great, not Great, challenge, it presented the Department of walks), connections, and huts and campsites, Conservation with the opportunity to look close to where people are and more widely strategically at recreation and tourism around New Zealand, for New Zealanders. provision across the area: not just at the Done right, there should be excellent bang ‘where’, but also at the ‘why’, the ‘for for buck. Built into these opportunities is whom’, and the ‘how’; at the backcountry the chance to reset international and, to trails that have become footpaths and at the some extent, domestic tourism as a supply- huts that have become expensive lodges; and focussed industry that is far more respectful at provision of budgetary and infrastructural of Aotearoa’s land and communities than contingency. The southern operations the industry we’ve known until recently. director assured me that this review would It won’t happen on its own, though. happen. The havoc that weather brought Courage and good judgement are needed also gave the chance to strengthen what to ensure New Zealand avoids a return to was already a solid friendship between tourism orthodoxies that leave trails of recreationists and the Milford Road Alliance, environmental and social wreckage, and at whose leaders went out of their way to the same time, steers clear of re-treads of ensure the outdoor community got suitable other dinosaur activities – or indeed, any access as soon as possible. new enterprises – that are corrosive to But climbers and trampers had only conservation, recreation, and the common just returned to State Highway 94 when good generally. a different kind of storm hit, this time As an aside, in my last column, I referred engulfing the globe. The coronavirus to kōrero I’d had with the Parliamentary Covid-19, at the time of writing, had frozen Commissioner for the Environment’s international tourism for an indeterminate office on re-wiring tourism. A suggestion period, and even temporarily halted I didn’t report was the only partially- backcountry recreation. Like February’s flippant proposal that Aotearoa become a westerly deluge, its aftermath presents destination that makes a prideful virtue of a chance, albeit on a far expanded scale, inconvenience for genuine sustainability’s to properly evaluate what New Zealand’s sake: for example, by insisting on public been doing with respect to conservation, transport use; or by anchoring tourist ships 4 June 2020 | Backcountry
offshore and tendering passengers; or by As people return to New Zealand’s wild eliminating single-use plasticised food lands, it’s with the perspective gained from containers and utensils in favour of multi- contemplation and exploration of backyards, thousand-use ones that require the user to neighbourhoods, and books; from the chance sit down and spend time. Of course, it would to see a World in a Grain of Sand. impact on everyone here, too. There’d be no harm. If I was just partially glib in that pre- General election 2020 - KiwiShare Covid time, I’m less so now. When Covid-19 roared in with world- At the time of writing, DOC was consulting changing fury, I took a step back to look at FMC very well on most aspects of possible FMC’s draft KiwiShare election campaign, post-Covid conservation and recreation which had been formulated late in 2019. works; this has included asking for our views Affirming not only the campaign, but the on an enormous multi-organisation, nature- durability of FMC’s kaupapa, it stands up based package. Despite my queries, however, well – very well. Indeed, a happy own goal it has remained unclear what extraordinary is that it seems large parts of KiwiShare processes might be used to fast-track will be adopted before the campaign is even projects. Proposals need to be measured launched, as the Government and DOC are early and honestly, against legislation and keen on many of its points for post-Covid plans, and by people with strong knowledge recovery. It’s a campaign for this time – and bases – and decision makers need to have for all times. the courage to say ‘no’ if necessary. History KiwiShare is about our place; if not a World spells this out in big font: where proposals in a Grain of Sand, then a World in Aotearoa are driven politically and don’t go through New Zealand. It’s about genuinely fostering the usual approval systems – for instance, outdoor recreation for Kiwis; getting proper that zombie project, the Oparara tourism protection for the land, including certain development – it can be hard to kill them parks’ creation, linking public lands in off, no matter how poor they might be. I’ve meaningful ways, conservation growth written to Tourism Minister Kelvin Davis, and actual sustainability in recreation, and Infrastructure and Regional Economic building DOC’s capacity in line with the Development Minister Shane Jones, and importance of its role. Conservation Minister Eugenie Sage, urging Built into KiwiShare are mini-campaigns. that post-Covid projects be properly, even if Check out our proposal for a Wild Rivers park rapidly, scoped. on the South Island West Coast (www.fmc. Decisions made at this time should not be org.nz/advocacy/rivers). The land, presently a cause for regret. Future New Zealanders mostly in stewardship, is bursting with should admire their farsightedness, and be beautiful life, and the wildness of the rivers thankful for them. running through it is real – rare, and in need Meanwhile, following the heavy weather of of protection. Look, also on www.fmc.org. the early 2020s summer and autumn, the dawn nz, at our proposal to affirm the status of holds promise. I hope that the hills are open unformed legal roads and to put the Walking again by the time this Backcountry reaches you. Access Commission in charge of them. As Out there, things will likely have changed in our campaign says, these roads are roads, as the absence of humans, especially where the much as State Highway One is a road. footprint of our species has been overbearing. Northerners will note that, along with The chance to embrace the challenges and calling for an ‘upped ante’ on Auckland delights of Southwestern Te Waipounamu recreation, the campaign pushes for proper under clean, quiet skies has special allure. resourcing of kauri dieback research. That’s June 2020 | Backcountry 5
‘resourcing’ in all relevant ways, including the launch we plan for 19 June; your club will intellectual. Such provision needs to be receive information about this. sufficient to determine what the issue’s scope is, and isn’t, and to allow all academic Department of Conservation and related needs to be met. It’s time to get Meetings with DOC have been ramped this one right. up from monthly to weekly to keep pace As I wrote this column, it was uncertain with the quick-changing circumstances. whether KiwiShare could be printed because Reflecting the physical realities of shutdown, of Covid-19 restrictions; if not, it’ll be and the general refocus that Covid-19 has available online. Meanwhile, at the centre of forced, there have been some changes to this Backcountry is a four-page insert based the substance of the kōrero. But the primary on the campaign’s issues; it can be pulled change is, actually, the tempo of our out and used as a starter for questions for relationship and what it’s achieving. FMC politicians. It remains to be seen whether the is asking for answers and action on long- Government and DOC will leave any part of standing issues and other matters and, in this our campaign unadopted. If they run with the Covid-energised milieu, to a large extent, lot, it’ll be a problem I’m delighted to own. we’re getting them. For instance, attention Regardless, there’ll be plenty to celebrate at has turned to gazetting the southern Rakiura Looking north and east from the southern edge of Fanthams Peak to Mt Taranaki, at sunrise. The shadow of Mt Taranaki is far left Photo: Peter Laurenson, www.occasionalclimber.co.nz 6 June 2020 | Backcountry
wilderness area; a push on maintenance of there are several reasons. Overseas travel family-friendly tracks is likely; and there’s options are now readily available online; the genuine willingness to look at issues such expectations of people choosing group travel as the potential to work with councils and abroad, relating to standards and liabilities, the Walking Access Commission on basic have changed in the 28 years since the FMC formation of certain unformed legal roads, Travel Club began; in June 2019, FMC adopted and at eliminating capital asset charges on a Recreation Transition campaign aimed at huts. These join a raft of other issues FMC making environmental sustainability gains, is working through with the Department. Of a goal largely imcompatible with flight- course, the proof of the pudding lies in its dependent overseas travel; and Travel Club eating, but for now, I can say that FMC and convenor John Dobbs planned to retire backcountry recreation are being served well within the next year. Covid-19 has now by the Department of Conservation. made the remaining trips scheduled for 2020 unviable. I sincerely thank John for FMC Travel Club his smooth running of the Travel Club and At its March meeting, the executive decided financial contributions to FMC over more to wind up the FMC Travel Club (read than two decades. more in the Travel Club section). In brief, June 2020 | Backcountry 7
Health and safety, again I know they will continue to support our I have expressed cautious optimism that work. I welcome new executive members our nation is taking a turn for the better – Allan Brent (Christchurch), Norm Judd that is, for realism – on health and safety. (Auckland), Lauren Kelley (Blackball), and It’s a big ship to steer, but a post-Covid Tony Walton (Auckland). focus on outdoor recreation could lend some Additionally, I want to pay tribute energy to the task. As I said in an earlier to former FMC executive member and Backcountry article, ‘The Risks of Risk-free’, continued stalwart Mike Floate, who passed attempts to keep people from immediate away recently. Mike was devoted to the harms, by making nature less natural and outdoors. He was also an expert in high encouraging passivity, can create other, country ecology. His fieldwork and writing more insidious risks. My feeling is that this relating to Crown pastoral tenure reviews has been increasingly understood where were of the highest quality and effectiveness, such understanding matters. A few months and his advocacy for backcountry recreation back, the Government’s road safety approach was fierce. subtly shifted direction to one which works within the knowledge that accidents will Patron happen. Stats NZ has embraced FMC’s offer Your club will have received an invitation to contribute to its wellbeing indicators. And to a General Meeting, to be held prior to DOC’s in-development work to exorcise our election campaign, Covid-19 willing. silliness from its approach to visitor safety Doubling down on the festivity of the is promising. launch, the meeting’s purpose is to elect Having said that, the Department has Les Molloy as FMC Patron. With a lifetime’s installed scorn-inducing ‘boil water’ notices fruitful dedication to conservation and at huts and campsites. Mousy, officious recreation, and known to many as the Father offspring of the building code, such notices of Wilderness, Les was already a figurehead in the backcountry will likely cause some for FMC. I’ll be delighted to formalise that. people to carry and use too much fuel, may August’s Backcountry will contain a profile of lead to gastro own-goals caused by mass Les. ignoring, and are unnecessary; in the end, anyone who has the competence to reach These new dawns backcountry huts in one piece probably has Traversing autumn in Covid shutdown, the nous to check for dead possums on their New Zealanders watched numerous dawns. roofs (and if not, could likely benefit from Perceptions of space, time, and life’s salutory lessons). ordinary things shifted. Splendour will have been found, by many people, close to home. Departures and arrivals Unlike the daybreaks of the shutdown I wish to pay tribute to departing long- period, dictated as they were by standing executive members Phil Glasson meteorological actuality, there’s much and Pat Holland. Both have shouldered about future eastern skies that FMC can help substantial roles, Phil largely in finance and determine. And much of what we paint into constitutional matters, and Pat as Top of the that horizon will be simple, and quiet, and South convenor, among other things. They local. leave FMC in good stead. I also sincerely Ka kite anō au i a koutou. thank expressions committee convenor Crystal Brindle, and Alan Grant, Stu Hutson, and Enda Walsh for their contributions; 8 June 2020 | Backcountry
FMC MOUNTAIN & FOREST TRUST Photo: Mitchell Everly, FMC Individual Supporter Can you spare a few dollars for those who will follow in your footsteps? The FMC Mountain & Forest Trust exists to support research, instruction, facilities and publications that enable mountain recreation and conservation. It also supports the FMC expedition scholarships. To donate, apply for funding or learn more visit www.fmc.org.nz/fmc-trust
Noticeboard school students. Visit www.mountainfilm.nz FMC NEWS or www.fmc.org.nz/members-area/nzmff/ FMC Youth Award Grant to register for the free school films. These cash grants have been made available with the support of the Maerewhenua Trust Enter the 2020 FMC Photo to assist young people in achieving youth competition awards, such as the Duke of Edinburgh’s FMC encourages those clubs that haven’t Hillary Award and Venturer Awards. participated to have a go in 2020. This year Applications normally close on 15 March, a special prize will be awarded, the winning June, September and November, but with club drawn at random from entries. the impact of the Covid-19 pandemic, We also encourage all clubs and their please visit our webpage for the latest members to delve into old photo albums, information on the scheme. www.fmc.org. and enter those classic shots in our ‘historic’ nz/youthawardgrant category. We’ve created helpful resources for ‘How NZ Mountain Film Festival – free to run a photo competition’, including ways films for schools to do it completely online, and are happy to FMC support means a selection of the best provide advice and assistance to clubs. films from the festival are available FREE for Entries close on 1 September 2020 for
Individual supporters, and 15 September but we usually don’t spend all our budget. 2020 for Clubs. Visit www.fmc.org.nz/ We hope to see a few more clubs applying photo-competition/ for full details and links for funding, to give their local backcountry to those resources. infrastructure a bit of a hand.’ The next round closes at the end of August, Regional leadership courses a visit www.backcountrytrust.org.nz for more success information. As well as the funds, the Trust Two courses ran in Waikato and Wellington can connect you with people who have the in March this year, while a third in Southland skills to help you out, both for planning and unfortunately had to be cancelled due to with practical work in the field. Covid-19. FMC was pleased to have assisted these courses, and is looking at how to build PUBLICATION NEWS on the success, and help others to follow Fording for everyone suit. Fording rivers and streams is an essential part of the fabric of our backcountry HUT NEWS adventure. Trampers, climbers, hunters, and Next Backcountry Trust funding anyone else interested in good fording, can round find my report Fording for Everyone on the Grants manager Rob Brown says ‘We’ve had FMC Wilderlife site www.wilderlife.nz/in- a number of clubs involved in great projects, the-mountains/river-crossing. This new version of research I carried out ten years ago is now revised, shortened and rearranged. The new fording method is given prominence and I urge readers to consider trying it out and benefitting from its obvious advantages. Light, cheap, floatable, seven millimetre diameter, polypropylene rope, and tape instead of harness, make it an accessible, easily learned routine. I discuss what we carry in our hands, the pros and cons of sticks, metal or wood, and ice axes. I found the coroners’ reports on drownings in the backcountry to be of inestimable value. These have been retained in the new version; we need not repeat the mistakes of the past. The new two-rope routine was tested independently by two groups, one in the North Island and the other in the South Island, both with success. Brian Wilkins, NZ Alpine Club Rob Brown, Manager of BCT (left) and a dedicated volunteer crew restoring Toka Biv in the Ruahine Range Photo: Peter Laurenson, www.occasionalclimber.co.nz 11
Letters Attitudes Waikaremoana not so ‘great’ ‘I missed the bus’ – ‘The bus left without Two buddies and I are knocking off the great me’, one comment I often hear from rural walks (GWs), one per year. We started this children upon a school bus, the other from eight years ago with the glorious Milford young adults in the city. No one denies either Track. Stunning as it was, we had maybe the ‘right’ to be on the bus. It is not one’s underestimated how challenging it was race, creed, or affiliation to a group that going to be. Nevertheless, we continued and fully identifies one, but one’s personality. we got to number eight last February 2019 – Many farmers are in the process of audits Waikaremoana. by Worksafe NZ for Health and Safety. This We chose GWs as we are ladies of a certain process is time consuming and costly. While age and required a degree of reassurance, at a special event held on a high-country not wishing to be in complete wilderness. station to raise money for a local school, Although absolutely stunning, as are all the subject was raised by many farmers, of the great walks, Waikaremoana left us a public access to farms being a problem with bit saddened. Below is a list of issues which the attitude from some people of ‘it is my really didn’t fit with our previous seven GW right’ with no thought of ‘with this right experiences. I also have a responsibility’. The general yy Not run by DOC. No rangers in any of the consensus from the farmers was that ‘even huts we stayed in. On our second night though I may not be legally liable, I don’t no others in the hut at all. Very lonely. want the hassle of having to deal with them’. yy No water (cardboard sign advising to use What one does off farm will determine if one lake water). Luckily we had our gas and is wanted on a property. stoves. On a day trip to Woolshed Creek Hut in yy Dirty huts, discarded empty food the Mount Somers area, a family was in containers; nobody had swept or cleaned residence and the children wanted to sleep before leaving. outside. Their parent’s response was ‘We yy Toilets were nothing short of disgusting, have paid for these tickets and it is our right to the point we just couldn’t use them. that you have a bunk for the night’. In the We had never seen so many blow flies. days of the old musterer’s hut, many were yy Pick-up last day was two pm, not enough happy to give up a bunk to those who needed time for an enjoyable walk. No later pick- it most. Now, a booking system is required. up option for slower walkers. The parent was quick to put the blame on yy We had never seen so many possums. DOC if their children were to become sick They were everywhere. 1080 drops due to a long-drop toilet. essential here if native birds are to have At a gym two children were playing on all any chance at all. the equipment while both parents had eyes We did contact iwi and were advised it would on cell-phones, also with ear phones in. be put up for discussion at a meeting, but we Safety? Rights? never heard back. Hopefully much of this has been rectified Sharon Boulton, farmer and Geraldine and people are having a more enjoyable Tramping Club member experience. If not, we very much hope that local iwi will make efforts to improve this beautiful walk for others’ enjoyment. Hazel Aughton, Cambridge Tramping Club 12 June 2020 | Backcountry
Quiz master called to task Editor’s reply Dearie me I do like a challenge, but that Thank you Kathy for your letter pointing out, quite rightly, that I shot myself in the foot with last Backcountry quiz was full of, shall we be the image featured. After some more digging corny and say, New Frontiers! (By only page I learned that most (but not all) kayaks are 13 it wasn’t apparent that most answers covered and some canoes are sat in rather than were to be found in later articles.) I started knelt in. It seems the most obvious distinction well, two from two, guessed well for three, is the kayak’s twin blade paddle. Could it be then faltered. But I do query number four. time for a new name for some vessels - the ‘kaynoe’? If indeed you kneel in a canoe with a single paddle, and sit in a kayak with a twin-blade paddle then what, pray tell, is that boat in Although the Backcountry the photo on the quiz page? Please take this shows which club a correspondent belongs in the light hearted manner it is meant – the to, views expressed in the latest Backcountry has been full of absorbing letter do not necessarily reading in which to engage during lockdown. reflect those of the club. For the best letter, a 2021 Kathy O, FMC individual supporter Backcountry Huts calendar courtesy of Potton and Burton publishing (www. pottonandburton.co.nz) goes to Kathy Ombler. This one is definitely a kayak! On East Waikaia River Photo: Zak Shaw
Remembering A tribute to Arnold Heine, FMC Patron
GEOFF SPEARPOINT, HVTC They stayed true to that vision. From ongoing trapping programmes in the On Saturday 15 February 2020, I joined Jan Eastbourne hills and planting on Matiu/ Heine, other members of the Heine whānau Somes Island to more wide ranging and close friends at the original family volunteer work with DOC around the country farm in Supplejack Valley, Upper Moutere. and offshore. It is exemplified in the FMC We were there to say farewell to Arnold, a Bulletin 112 editorial for March 1993. Arnold sparkly-eyed man who had influenced so wrote, ‘The summer has come and gone – many people, and also to place his ashes and I spent most of it away from Wellington; a small plaque at the base of a large redwood hut maintenance and botanising in Nelson/ tree. The tree had been planted by the family Marlborough, kākāpō supplementary in the same year Arnold was born, and was feeding on Little Barrier Island and then the one he had a special affinity with. His sister Chatham Island pigeon project in January. Marie is buried close by under the same tree, It always amazes me to continually find with a similar memorial plaque. these new places to explore and appreciate An excellent obituary for Arnold, written in the lesser known places of New Zealand.’ by Les Molloy, was published in the last Many have been inspired by their practical Backcountry. A full obituary also appeared in example. the 2019 NZAJ. In this article I simply want to Exploration was a major theme throughout pay a personal tribute to a friend and mentor Arnold’s life. When, as a freckly 16 year old I who was in many ways a second father first visited Jan and Arnold’s house in Brook to me. And not just Arnold. I also want to Street Lower Hutt, to have dinner with honour a similarly remarkable woman. Jan them before tramping club, I walked into a has been an equal partner on most of their house with floor to ceiling book cases full adventures, and many of those enterprises of the most wonderful narratives. Not just would have struggled or failed without her adventure stories, and exploration classics, support. but also scholarly histories and studies about Arnold grew up in Supplejack Valley, Central Asia, Antarctica, everywhere remote. and in latter years he and Jan were able to Shipton, Shackelton, and books like The purchase some land with a stream through Mountain World, and Fosco Maraini’s Where it that was part of the original farm. Here Four Worlds Meet. It was truly inspirational, they planted hundreds of flax, shrubs, and and I can still see those shelves in my mind’s trees they had grown from seed, in their own eye. restoration project. The wider Heine whānau Books were a major part of Arnold’s life, still own farmland adjacent. and something he never lost the love of. Voluntary conservation work and Visiting his house in Brook Street and later protecting native species were essential Kotare Road in Day’s Bay it became very themes for the Heines for much of their lives. clear, looking at the stacks piled up in the Almost fifty years earlier they set up the Hutt living room, that a weak spot for books had Valley Conservation Society to look after the allowed the books to take over the house regeneration of natives and fight fires on the somewhat. Eastern Hutt hills. In 1970 Jan had written, With such a love of books it’s not surprising ‘…we…must undertake to teach children and that Arnold set up the FMC book order system other adults the ideals of conservation and through the Bulletin, and reviewed many to show them that conservation is a way of outdoor books in it. Looking back through life.’ Arnold Heine carrying his food and gear up onto the Sealy Range, en route to Mueller Hut to be hut warden (with Jan) for a week. February 2007. Arnold was 81 Photos: Geoff Spearpoint June 2020 | Backcountry 15
those reviews I am struck by just how many reviews he did and their perceptiveness, fairness and encouragement. Books also took them inside other people’s explorations across the globe, so it is also not surprising that, when opportunity arose, they embarked on their own journeys to some of those far off places. To Kashgar and the foothills of Kongur (7,719 metres) in the early 1980s, Eastern Europe in the early 1970s, a circuit around Mt Kailash in western Tibet in 1997 with friends John and Diane McKinnon for instance. In typical Arnold and Jan fashion the journeys often fitted in with visits to friends like Bob McKerrow, who worked for Red Cross in far flung places such as Almaty in Kazakhstan. Such was the case in 1998 when Arnold followed the Karakoram Highway to Pakistan, and later visited Tashkent, Samarkand, Bukhara and Khiva. The rich history of these places filled many books on their shelves back home. In another exploring life, this time in Antarctica, Arnold was part of some Arnold at his home in Days Bay, with the rope he used significant long-range traverses in the late on many transalpine trips in the Southern Alps 1950s and 60s, journeys to places never previously explored, where his engineering December 1969 built Asgard Hut at 1,300 resourcefulness was essential to keep the metres on the Asgard Range, above the party moving and able to carry out their Dry Valleys. From there, Arnold and Ken scientific work. Gousmett climbed Mt Obelisk (2,200 He was also instrumental in the metres). I had the good fortune, in 1985, to establishment of Vanda Base, and in stay in this little A-frame hut myself, and with John Alexander, Vanda Base leader, From left: Arnold, his brother Bernard, Jan Heine, and also climb Mt Obelisk. I went south but once. Anne Hall at Bernard’s house on the farm at Supplejack Valley, Upper Moutere. April 2009 Arnold spent about 16 seasons in Antarctica. During the 1950s Arnold led a series of wonderful exploratory transalpine journeys into places in the Southern Alps that have also become dear to my heart. The Wilberg Range, the Garden of Eden and other places further south, such as O’Leary Pass, the Five Fingers Range in the head of the Arawhata Valley and the Olivines. Many of them involved traverses that had not previously been done, such as the traverse from the Derivation Névé in the head of the Joe River and across the Thunderer Glacier to the 16 June 2020 | Backcountry
Olivine Ice Plateau. his wise words. He was a guy who touched Enthusiasm for these remote places came many of us, and we all felt uplifted for it. through in his photo albums, and I had the Deafness plagued his later life, making it great privilege of sitting with him recounting harder for him to participate, and that was a trips and places. No wonder I became real frustration to him, but he enjoyed social captured by transalpine trips. I joined many occasions. trips Jan and Arnold were on. In the 1990s Arnold understood the cogs of politics very they came from a tough trip in the Okuru well, and there is a lot we can learn from to join us on a trip along the coast from the his style. He wasn’t interested in winning Cascade River to Big Bay. Naively, I expected battles, with their implications of winners the travelling to be at a relaxed pace after and losers. Instead, he remained focussed their Okuru experience. Not a bit of it. I found on beneficial outcomes for conservation and myself having to work hard to keep up! protecting opportunities for New Zealanders Arnold always made an effort to keep on their public conservation lands. in contact, was a good networker and his The breadth of Arnold’s interest in the collaborative approach on trips was strongly outdoors is nowhere better illustrated than valued. He enjoyed a good discussion on any in the features that appeared in the FMC topic, and I was constantly surprised by the Bulletin during his tenure as editor. He was lateral thinking he would bring to a subject, interested in, and got involved in everything, offering new insights, and many appreciated including ski patrol, instruction manuals, national and forest park legislation and Arnold at Round Hill during an August 1983 pre- management, Mountain Safety Council, first Antarctic training course Photo: Colin Monteath aid, avalanche awareness, advocating for wilderness, public access, and the protection of conservation lands. But it was all the extra little things that made me realise the full scale of his interest. A camera users’ survey, melanoma awareness, kea and kākā surveys, an explorers’ corner … In the end I found myself throwing my hands in the air trying to cover it all. It is just too broad. From all these wide interests of his came a desire to protect our flora, fauna, and conservation lands and inspire New Zealanders to explore, whatever their circumstances, our mountain lands. As it should be, the last word is Arnold’s. In the first Hutt Valley Tramping annual magazine in 1966, Arnold, who was then club president, wrote, ‘I think the mountains have a part to play – those of us who travel in them, gain something very precious and not easily lost. It is a way of life which will draw many in the years to come – let us encourage it in every way we can.’ June 2020 | Backcountry 17
Remembering Jim and the Routeburn MIKE SCOTT, GOLDEN BAY ALPINE AND TRAMPING CLUB Jim Gilkison first crossed the Routeburn Track in 1928 with his father (author of Early Days in Central Otago) and they ate oatmeal. Half way down the zigzag above Lake Mackenzie the track finished at a pile of picks and shovels left by the men who’d been working on the track and had dropped them when they went off to the first War. Jim told me this. The Track clearly made an impression on him, because in 1968 he left his job as accountant at Radiation Ltd in Dunedin to test the viability of operating a guided walk over the same route he and his father had walked 40 years before. I first met Jim in Queenstown in 1971 when Jim, with Ton Snelder and another tramping companion, I applied for a job as a guide on his newly on their first Routeburn trip in February 1969 Photo: established walk. I’d just finished building Snelder family a house in Queenstown and was looking for further employment. It was Sunday, all riverbed, then waiting at the Glenorchy jetty the shops were closed (remember this was for Harry Bryant to bring his boat across the Queenstown’s prehistory) and all I had to lake head from Kinloch, when he saw the bus eat that evening was cabbage and an egg. arrive. The Dart bridge came later, in 1974. I had boiled the cabbage, placed a poached Once at Kinloch you waited while Harry got egg on top and was about to embark on my one of his open-top Bedfords going (with meal. Jim knocked, walked in the door with .303 under the seat in case you saw a deer) his partner Ton Snelder, looked at what I and for Connie, his wife, to produce scones had in front of me and said to Ton ‘well, he for morning tea, which the group consumed can cook anyway’. at ‘Harry’s Lodge’ at the beginning of the My interview consisted solely in his Track. discovering that my parents had played Harry had built the Lodge for the big groups tennis with Jim’s brother. Avalanche of day trippers who, in days gone by, 600 at training, first aid or survival skills weren’t a time, had come up the Lake in the Earnslaw mentioned. And he already knew I could to be bussed by Harry to the beginning of the cook. Jim’s methods were old school – I was Track. The lodge was built of bush timber, right for the job. had all the character of ‘the old days’ and so, The Routeburn in those days meant going of course, DOC later designated it unsafe or by bus up the Lake on a road like the Dart insanitary or something, and demolished it. 18 June 2020 | Backcountry
Harry made tea in a four-gallon kero tin like porridge, he revered it. over the fire in the Lodge, Connie’s scones The huts, one at Routeburn Falls and one were eaten and the group of 12 punters at Lake Mackenzie, were built as lightweight were lined up, introduced, and told what to kitsets in Dunedin then choppered in to expect in their four days on the Track. First their respective sites by Don Spary of the night at the Falls, second and third at Lake then fledgling Alpine Helicopters, and Mackenzie, then out to the Divide. reassembled. They had two bunkrooms of Jim (great grandson of James Hogg, also six bunks each, and if there was a full party known as the Ettrick Shepherd, the Scottish of 12, the guides slept on the floor. A small poet and novelist) was about 65 at the time, dining room, smaller shower room, and tiny was one of the founding members of and storeroom completed the design. The guides had been an instructor with the NZ Alpine stayed with each party from the beginning of Club, and had a variety of wise suggestions the trip until the end and generally the mood to offer as you plodded along. ‘Start off slow, was convivial and often hilarious. and get slower’ was one I remember, and When the evening meal was over and Jim another was ‘never rope yourself to someone was with the party, he’d sit at the head of the you haven’t been on three un-roped climbs table with what looked like a glass of water with’. but wasn’t, and recount tales from his past. He had a number of sheltered spots along ‘I was holed up in a tent with Harold Service the track, under a leaning rock usually, on Earnslaw waiting for the weather to clear. where he liked to poke dry firewood, in case I carried a barometer in those days. After a of emergencies. Jim’s Scottish background bit Harold said to me – Jim, I do wish you’d made him resourceful, canny and frugal. stop tapping that thing, it’s not making the If there was a cupful of porridge left over slightest difference to the weather’. from breakfast, he would carefully package Or the time he was in the old Routeburn it and carry it to the next hut. His Scottish Flats hut on a particularly cold night when ancestry showed with oats – Jim didn’t just his sleeping bag wasn’t up to the task. All Jim and a tramping companion gazing down the Hollyford Valley Photo: Government Tourist Organisation
he could find in the hut to add as another sorts of conditions, and the general tenor blanket was a detached door which he of the place was one of bonhomie and high managed to manoeuvre on top of himself. spirits. Jim wasn’t a handyman but he’d gathered 1928 must have been a good year because around him some old friends who’d come up that was also the year Harry Bryant started on the track at the beginning of the season running his buses from Kinloch up to the to do repairs; check the two way radio beginning of the Track. Over the years he and fix the bits of the aerial the keas had had developed a commentary delivered over dismembered over winter; adjust the water a crackly intercom and peppered with Harry supply, which was usually full of gravel; jokes, the effect of which on the passengers and empty the long drop ready for the next in the back he would check in his rear- season. Harold Service, Bob Rickman, and view mirror. In honour, I suppose, of Sandy Jack Richardson were regulars. Bob was Powell, British radio comedian of the 1930s, particularly useful for shovelling out the he would always begin with ‘Can you hear longdrop since he had no sense of smell and me mother’ (Crackle, crackle, big grin. Check smoked roll-your-owns. Once he’d filled the rear vision mirror). the 44 gal drum with last season’s goods ‘Those there are Paradise ducks. The one (the temperature never got high enough for with the white head is the female. They’re decomposition) a chopper would lower a the ones that make all the noise. Just like strop and whisk the load away somewhere people.’ out of the Park. The backwash from the ‘I started driving buses up here in 1928 chopper’s blades on the open drum was an and never had a licence. They didn’t get this uncomfortable hazard for the man (Bob) on far.’ the bottom end of the strop and accidents If the timing was out or a muffler came were only amusing to those off to one side, loose, Harry’s tool kit was spread up the while Bob rushed into the hut to rinse out his road beside remembered fenceposts. mouth and eat chocolate biscuits. ‘The mountains on our right are the Jim lived in Dunedin but had a crib in Humboldt mountains. They have goats but Queenstown on the side of Queenstown Hill, no deer. The mountains on our left are the which became the guides’ accommodation Ailsa mountains. They have deer but no and was most aptly named The Shack. It was goats.’ a tiny rustic building, probably a post-war In 1974 the Dart bridge was built, Harry condemned Ministry of Works hut, with a was pleased to retire, and the ambience of heavy lean to the east. Plates were inclined the valley changed forever. to slide off the table and when using the More than anything, Jim wanted to show stove, pots could only be partially filled or others the country he loved and he did it from they’d overflow into the cupboard. There his heart and with his traditional values. was a gigantic 12 pointer red deer’s head Those mountains to him were a certain sort over the sink which Jim had got at an auction of sacred. To me he was Gentleman Jim. and which dropped detritus into the cooking Jim died in 1998 and The Track, now when the door slammed. Jim wasn’t a do- sold, upscaled, packaged and promoted is, it-your-selfer so Bob installed a shower and for better or for worse, world renowned. I we got rid of the bee hive in the wall. Jim’s sometimes wonder which way Jim is rolling bedroom was another tiny hut lower down in his grave. the section, to which he retired each night with a glass of water. The guides were often students from Dunedin and so used to these 20 June 2020 | Backcountry
Remembering Dr Mike Floate DAVID BARNES, FMC FMC has lost another kaumatua. Mike Floate, who was on the Executive from 1988 to 2000 and continued to lead much of our high country tenure review for many years after that, died in Cromwell in April, aged 85. Mike moved to New Zealand in 1983 for his work as a soil scientist. A colleague took him on an Otago Tramping and Mountaineering Club trip, and he was soon immersed in tramping Mike in 1987 Photo: Antony Pettinger culture. As well as serving as the club’s Chief Guide and President, he was active in work. He was also a member of the Otago Search and Rescue and the local branch of Conservation Board and heavily involved in the Mountain Safety Council. When he joined the Otago Goldfields Heritage Trust. Mike the FMC team, his professional background was awarded the Queen’s Service Medal in and his love for the tussock lands of Otago 2009. He is remembered fondly by those made him a natural fit for the tenure review who tramped and worked with him. SUBSCRIBE TO BACKCOUNTRY Believe in what we’re saying? Join FMC as an individual supporter and receive a year’s subscription to BACKCOUNTRY Magazine. www.fmc.org.nz/join-fmc
Outdoor Community Leader training: ways for your club to think outside the square DAN CLEARWATER, March unfortunately had to be cancelled due FMC DEVELOPMENT OFFICER to Covid-19 level four restrictions). We chatted to Matt Conway (Wellington A healthy club culture is one of the many TMC) who helped organise and run one great benefits of belonging. Club trips and course. Four mentors from WTMC and training courses instill and nourish that Tararua TC plus nine aspirant leaders culture, but as many of us know from our were split into two groups. Each was given travels, experiencing other cultures allows a couple of ‘checkpoints’ to pass as they you to bring home new ideas and appreciate tramped on and off track in to Waerenga your own culture even more. Hut, Orongorongo Valley. Mentors took This column explores some options for the chance to lead discussions as topics clubs to access external training, whether presented themselves (navigation decisions, by going on professional or volunteer-led weather interpretation, group management) courses, or teaming up with other clubs to plus a staged injury/emergency scenario. It create your own bespoke training activities. gave each of the aspirant leaders the chance FMC nudged all our clubs in May 2019 to to build confidence at leading, among peers consider the latter option, with a suggestion and with a safety net of experienced mentors. to collaborate to run ‘Regional Leadership Conway said the feedback was really Development Courses’. With encouragement positive from everyone; participants and the offer of some funding support from appreciated the low-stress learning the FMC Mountain and Forest Trust, FMC opportunities, mentors enjoyed passing on was delighted to hear the recent success of knowledge, and everyone enjoyed the cross- courses in Wellington and Waikato (a course pollination of ideas across the two clubs organised by the Southland Clubs in late represented. Participants at a Wellington Regional leadership development course Photos: Matt Conway 22
John MacArthur was a key organiser for Spots on the course are only for members, the Waikato TC’s event at Pirongia Forest and in short supply, but local NZDA branches Park Lodge. Their event had eight mentors might be willing to ‘lend’ you an instructor if and support people, with 14 aspirant leaders your club needs training assistance. from five regional clubs. The format was You could use the ‘find an instructor’ part a balance between classroom lectures, of the New Zealand Outdoor Instructors discussions, activities and outdoor scenarios Association website: www.nzoia.org.nz/ in the nearby bush tracks. instructors-and-guides/find-instructor Both clubs were very positive about or contact them to place a ‘job ad’ in the their experiences, and plan to run the association’s weekly newsletter, which courses again; WTC in spring 2020, and the reaches over 1,200 professional instructors. Wellington team aims to make it a regular Outdoor education centres are usually annual event in early March. We hope the set up for school groups, young adults or success of these events inspires other clubs, corporates, but a number advertise public who didn’t quite manage to build enough courses, or invite enquiries from groups momentum this time round, to try again for about bespoke courses. Likewise companies next spring/summer. which provide guided or facilitated outdoor To read the full interviews with Matt experiences for youth or young adults often and John, please visit: www.wilderlife. also run public training courses. Adventure nz/2020/06/regional-leadership-courses activity companies or independent guides But you don’t have to create your own usually offer training courses, and some new course; there are plenty of existing ones are open to the idea of bespoke training for to choose from! Outdoor Training NZ has clubs. Even just employing a mountain guide a number of branches around the country, to accompany you on a trip and provide offering a variety of volunteer-run courses mentoring along the way will be money well at ‘club prices’. Even if they don’t have a spent. course which suits your club for content or And finally don’t forget other FMC timing, you can get in touch with them to affiliated clubs. The next club down the road see if you could arrange one that does. might have some great courses you could The NZ Deerstalkers Association runs a ask to participate in, or you could join the very successful Hunter National Training NZAC who run some great Alpine courses for Scheme (HUNTS) for its members, covering club members, led by professional mountain core outdoor skills as well as hunting skills. guides. To read more about these options, and see a starting list of organisations to contact, please visit www.Wilderlife.nz and search for ‘Where can clubs get external training?’ In the next column, we’ll look at meal planning for club trips; hints, tips, resources and anecdotes. As always, we’re on the lookout for people who are willing to help us build these resources. If there’s a topic you’re passionate about, we’d love your input, or your suggestion for what to cover next. dan.clearwater@fmc.org.nz 23
Outdoor Community THE NZDA: A KINDRED ORGANISATION High above the Wilkin River Photo: Simon Gibson, editor of NZ Hunting and Wildlife DAN CLEARWATER, From the outside, it is as easy to stereotype FMC DEVELOPMENT OFFICER hunters being focused solely on shooting animals, as mountaineers achieving a Few reading Backcountry would deny that summit, or trampers completing a classic recreating in New Zealand’s wild places is a track. But we all know the breadth and depth foundational element of Kiwi culture. There of our involvement in the outdoors goes well are many different ways to embrace our beyond those memes. culture, and despite these differences, we’re Hunters generally divide their days usually more alike than we realise. FMC between off-track travel and observing their strives to build and maintain constructive environment while looking for quarry: the and genuine relationships with the kindred actual pressing of a trigger is a brief moment organisations representing those who show of a trip, and one that doesn’t happen on their love for these special places in different every journey to the hills. For most, simply ways. The more that outdoor people can being in the outdoors is the underlying reason unify to protect the opportunities and places for their trip; the ‘goal’ of hunting an animal we all value, the more likely we’ll see better is often simply the excuse to get out there. results over the long term. Many of us know that when you sit quietly The New Zealand Deerstalkers Association for long enough, the creatures also relax (NZDA) is one such kindred organisation. and return to their daily business. And so Founded in Southland in 1937, today the hunters develop a keen and deep interest and NZDA has around 49 ‘Branches’ comprising appreciation of native fauna and flora. Just about 8,000 individuals. Similar to FMC, as we laud the achievements and foresight they have a volunteer-led executive (of six of early FMC forebears such as Vosseler and members), with two paid, part-time staff Field, so too does the NZDA hold up founding in support. Each member pays a proportion member Geoffrey Orbell, who re-discovered of their fee to the National Office, located in takahē in the Murchison Mountains in 1948. Wellington’s CBD, which devotes its energies Today NZDA members are heavily involved to advocating for Hunters’ interests. in predator-trapping programmes aimed 24 June 2020 | Backcountry
at whio preservation in places like Pureora, as they can accept on the course. Essentially Kaimanawa and Fiordland, as well as work a formalised backcountry apprenticeship, to combat wilding pine in the Kaweka. half of the ten-week program is devoted to More evidence of hunters’ focus and core outdoor skills: participants learn about appreciation of nature can be found in conservation, public land management NZDA’s photo competition. Whereas FMC processes, river crossing, navigation, route has one category for ‘Native Flora and finding and camp cookery, before they even Fauna’ the NZDA devotes five categories: talk about anything to do with a firearm. Flora, Game animals, Birds, Mammals and Meanwhile hunters can be found on FMC- Insects, reptiles and amphibians. affiliated club snow-craft courses, learning Off-track adventure is a core aspect of crampon and axe skills for pursuing species the hunting experience. Just take a look at like thar and chamois. the popular NZ Hunter Adventures show on New firearms legislation may require TVNZ, where four hunters make a west-east owners to belong to a club in order to hold crossing of the Garden of Eden, with one rifle a licence; such an influx of members could between them. Or another episode where pose an incredible opportunity as well as they begin from Mt Cook village on a trans- significant challenges. Who knows how alpine route which ends in a packrafting many members this kindred organisation journey down the Landsborough. If indeed could have in the near future. the only goal was to shoot animals, then Although there are issues where we they could certainly choose easier locations. agree to disagree, there is simply more NZDA sections have long been contributing that we have in common than what we to the construction and maintenance of choose to differ about. It behoves all of us, backcountry infrastructure. How many as members of the outdoor community, to times have you, as a tramper, stayed at a continue to co-operate wherever we can, to NZDA hut? (or for that matter, a NZFS hut ensure the future of our wild places and the built for deer cullers, which we proudly tout opportunities to recreate in them. as part of our internationally unique public hut network). Written after a chat with Trevor Chappel, NZDA National President and Don Rood, NZDA media advisor Surely the Backcountry Trust, co-founded by NZDA, FMC and Trail Fund NZ can be seen as one of the strongest commitments to collaboration over mutual interest? Or perhaps it is collaborative work with the Walking Access Commission to secure, improve and re-open access to the places that hunters, trampers and other mountain enthusiasts cherish? The NZDA thinks hunting is growing in New Zealand; surveys show that approximately 170,000 of the quarter-million licenced firearm owners go hunting each year, many putting ‘free-range, organic’ meat on the table for their families. The HUNTS (Hunter National Training Solo Hunter: this picture from FMC’s Safety in the Mountains booklet illustrates FMC’s acknowledgement Scheme) is so popular, that in some areas and respect for hunting as an outdoor pastime they have to turn away three times as many Illustrator: Adele Jackson June 2020 | Backcountry 25
A New Dawn? Recreation Transition FMC Executive member Jamie have, and will continue to, play a crucial Stewart introduces a new role with car-pooling, club buses and other FMC campaign to encourage climate-friendly practices. The push for low-carbon recreation low-carbon recreation infrastructure encompasses the creation of It has been a while now – pre-Covid-19 and investment in recreational opportunities (everything pre-Covid seems a while that don’t have high embedded transport ago) since the FMC Executive approved a costs. How much could carbon emissions new campaign we have called ‘Recreation be reduced if people from Auckland and Transition’ to encourage low-carbon Tauranga did a yearly tramp in the Kaimai recreation. ranges rather than on a distant Great Walk? FMC has been considering our response to How much carbon emission reduction if the climate crisis for several years. We have the public money invested in the Paparoa taken steps to minimise our organisational track had been used instead to develop more carbon footprint, including the recent mountain-biking opportunities near some decision to phase out the FMC Travel Club. of our larger centres of population? But the times demand more of us, so we have developed this campaign to shape our future From my back door advocacy, to attempt to impact central and FMC coined #frommybackdoor pre-Covid, local government thinking and possibly to but events have overtaken us. What a influence the recreational choices of clubs lesson and opportunity we have all had and our wider outdoor community. to rediscover our neighbourhoods, and to FMC recognises that in this instance think about how we can improve our local we are not leaders, but followers, of many outdoor opportunities. How much could committed initiatives from clubs and carbon emissions be reduced if more people individuals in our outdoor community. choose to recreate from their back doors regularly? Should we apply the ‘recreational Low-carbon recreation opportunity spectrum’ suburb by suburb, infrastructure town by town? There is a need for low-carbon transport Department of Conservation research has options for people to get to the places shown that the most influential factors in they love. Dan Clearwater investigates in connecting people to nature are experience this Backcountry what is possible currently in nature as a child and regular interaction with electric vehicles. Improved passenger with specific natural places as an adult. services on railways are also important, Where better to make this happen than and this government is heading in the right people’s own neighbourhoods? The unkempt direction – will we see Cantabrians heading gully, the piece of bush locked away between to Arthurs Pass on the train for a climb and neighbours, the old braid of the river, the tramp again in our lifetimes? Clubs also swamp on the edge of town. 26 June 2020 | Backcountry
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