GB Ice Climbing Team Youth World Championships Selection Policy 2023
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GB Ice Climbing Team
Youth World Championships
Selection Policy 2023
The BMC and Mountaineering Scotland reserve the right to amend this document should there be significant changes to either
the wider NGB strategy, the funding status or any significant changes made by the UIAA and/or the IOC.
V1 November 20221. GB Ice Climbing Team Selection Purpose
1.1 This selection policy outlines the process in which the BMC in partnership with
Mountaineering Scotland will undertake in selecting youth athletes to represent GB
Climbing Ice Climbing team at the 2023 UIAA Ice Climbing World Youth
Championships, Oulu, Finland 24-26 February 2023.
2. Objectives
2.1 The intention of this selection policy is to provide clarity and consistency in our
approach to selecting athletes who can
• positively represent the GB Ice Climbing team
• ability to deliver competitive performances seeking to seek to be in the top two
thirds of the field.
2.2 Each country shall be permitted to register, on the UIAA official registration form, the
following competitors (for each discipline/category): 6 Men and 6 Women.
2.3 The World Youth Championship shall include both Difficulty and Speed categories for
the following age groups / year of birth within these age groups.
Year of Under 16 Under 19 Under 21
event
2023 2010 2009 2008 2007 2006 2005 2004 2003 2002
3. Eligibility
In addition to eligibility below, athletes must comply with UIAA eligibility rules, including anti-
doping:
3.1 Athletes are members of the BMC or Mountaineering Scotland;
3.2 Athletes must be a British citizen and eligible to represent Great Britain;
3.3 Athletes hold a valid international license issued by the BMC, where an athlete meets age
category criteria;
V1 November 20233.4 Athletes comply to UIAA and UK Anti-Doping rules and anti-doping blood/urine testing
policies. Notified athletes on the National and/or International testing pools will comply
with the requirements of the World Anti-Doping Code and International Standard for
Testing with regard to ADAMS and whereabouts information.
4. Selection Panel
4.1 All selections are made by the BMC selection panel:
• Chair, Head of Performance – GB Climbing
• BMC representative
• MS representative
• Independent Member
• Independent Observer
4.2 Other expert advisors or observers such as representatives from funding bodies may be
invited to attend from time to time, but without voting rights.
4.3 The selection panel will exercise its discretion fairly and without bias in making its decision
against the selection criteria listed in this document.
4.4 Decisions will be made by majority vote.
4.5 The selection panel will convene W/C 5 December 2022, and athletes will be informed
W/C 12 December 2022.
5. Confidentiality
Athletes and officials must not disclose any information regarding any selection decisions or
appeals until such information is publicly announced or disclosed by the BMC, in partnership with
Mountaineering Scotland.
6. Selection Criteria
6.1 Willingness to compete and to represent GB Climbing positively
6.2 2022-23 European Cup and World Championship competition results in Category /
Discipline
6.3 Past competition results, including lead rock climbing competition experience
V1 November 20226.4 Outdoor Dry-Tooling/Mixed grade ability
Females:
Under 16 ideally M7 / 8
Under 19 M10
Under 21 1xM9 and 1xM10 in a single session
Males:
Under 16 ideally M7 / 8
Under 19 M10
Under 21 1xM10 1xM11 in a single session
6.5 Winter climbing experience - Please specify if you have any outdoor winter experience,
grades climbed, location etc.
6.6 Competency
• Please send video evidence of your ability to demonstrate relevant skills and
techniques such as linking Fig-4/Fig-9 moves, steinpulls/stein-ups, reverse grip,
and also climbing on plywood kickboards in competition style.
We encourage all athletes attending the UIAA World Cup’s to compete in both Speed and Lead
events.
7. Deselection – Injuries, Fitness to Compete
7.1 At this time, the membership of athletes affected by injury or illness will be afforded a
certain amount of protection.
7.2 A significant injury/illness is defined as follows:
7.2.1 One that impacts on an athlete’s ability to fully train/compete for a single or
cumulative 3-month period; or
7.2.2 one that, happens at a crucial time in the calendar that significantly impacts on the
athlete’s ability to deliver performances that would otherwise have qualified them for
retention on the Squad.
7.3 Athletes who are unable to compete at the specified selection events or International
events due to significant injury/illness may be retained for the following year.
V1 November 20227.4 Where an athlete has been affected by a performance limiting injury/illness, there will be
return-to fitness performance conditions, based on a case-by-case approach.
7.5 There will be an agreed action plan between the athlete, their personal coach & the BMC,
which will have individual targets to be reviewed throughout the season.
8. Appeals
8.1 The sole grounds of appeal against the decision of any selection panel will be that:
8.1.1 there has been a failure to follow the GB Ice Climbing Selection Policy; or
8.1.2 that the selection panel reached a decision on the basis of an error of fact.
8.2 The right to appeal a selection decision is provided on these limited grounds only and
must not be seen as an opportunity to dispute the opinion of the selection panel where
they have followed the proper procedure and selection criteria stated in the GB Ice
Climbing Selection Policy.
8.3 In reaching their decision the selection panel are acting as experts and athletes agree that
in so doing the panel exercises judgment and discretion which are not in themselves
capable of challenge.
8.4 There are no appeals allowed against the content of the published GB Ice Climbing
Selection Policy and therefore against the actions of the selection panel, provided they
follow the selection criteria published.
8.5 Any appeal relating to the process will be conducted in accordance with the BMC in
partnership with Mountaineering Scotland appeals policy.
9. Disclaimer
Due to the uncertainty of the international competition season this document may, during the
course of the year, require minor amendment. These amendments will be limited to circumstances
arising from rule changes and or changes to the BMC and Mountaineering Scotland and / or the
UIAA International Events calendar. Any amended version of this document will be made publicly
available (including the date on which any amendment was made) at www.thebmc.co.uk
V1 November 2022Appendix 1: GB Ice Climbing Application Form, 2023 UIAA Ice Climbing World Youth
Championships
Please email this completed form together with your evidence to Ellen Butler, Performance
Administrator, Ellen.Butler@thebmc.co.uk
Deadline for this application is 09.00 on 2 December 2022
Name:
Date of Birth:
Email Address:
Clothing Size
(Required for team
kit):
Do you have a British
Yes / No
passport?
(Please note that you must hold a British passport to be considered, and you will need to send us a
photo copy of it with your application)
Select the discipline(s) for which you are applying:
Difficulty (Lead) Yes / No
Speed Yes / No
Please list details of any Ice Climbing Competition results in the last 3 years:
Please list details of any other form of climbing competition results in the last 3 years:
V1 November 2022Describe your current training for ice/mixed/dry-tooling competition. Briefly describe why you are excited to participate in the Ice Climbing World Championship events and your expected performance target. Please add any additional skills/experience/information you would like the BMC and MScot to know about you, including past rankings that weren't asked for above Signature: Date: Signature: Date: guardian / parent if u18 V1 November 2022
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