École National de l'Horlogerie Useful Watch Repair Fixtures 2021 Moon Phase Calendar - HOROLOGICAL TIMES - American ...
←
→
Page content transcription
If your browser does not render page correctly, please read the page content below
École National de l’Horlogerie Useful Watch Repair Fixtures 2021 Moon Phase Calendar TM HOROLOGICAL TIMES January 2021 AMERICAN WATCHMAKERS-CLOCKMAKERS INSTITUTE · SETTING SERVICE STANDARDS AND EDUCATING THE HOROLOGICAL COMMUNITY
Since 1920 PRECISION IS PRECIOUS Ruby (Red) TS-CHRONOPROOF-PRO/RUBY $3,995 TS-PROOFMASTERPRO $5,995 Aluminum (Silver) TS-CHRONOPROOF-PRO/ALUMINUM $3,995 PROOFMASTER - Waterproof Tester 10 Bar CHRONOPROOF PRO - Waterproof Tester 3 Bar Insert the watch, close the chamber and the test cycle starts • Features 5-inch, high-resolution color screen with the capacitive touch function. automatically. Measurement tolerance accurate to 1/5000 of the • The new high resolution of the machine improves the accuracy of the test. thickness of an average human hair. Vacuum: programmable from • Results of last 100 tests stored for reference. -0.2 down to -0.5 bar. Pressure: programmable from +0.2 to +3.0 bar. • New adjustable watch support keeps the sensor from scratching the watch. • Watch holding capacity: 65mm watch diameter and 30mm watch height. • Includes integrated compressor • Offers the ability to input 50 custom testing programs. • Includes printer for test results ticket • Waterproof test time has been reduced 25 to 30% over previous models. • Reliable test results • Allows testing the watch using both pressure and vacuum. • Automatic test cycle • Use any combination of pressure and vacuum. • Touchscreen • Testing options: vacuum + pressure, vacuum or pressure, pressure + vacuum. • Size: 155W x 220D x 300H mm • Size: 149W x 243D x 305H mm • Maximum watch diameter 70mm • Requires 10 BAR compressor. AC6414 $1,295 sold seperately. • Maximum watch height 65mm PHONE 800-776-6858 WEB JULESBOREL.COM FAX 800-776-6862
IN THIS VOLUME 45, NUMBER 1, January 2021 Official Publication of the American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute AWCI News Hodinkee Raises $40 Million TM January 2021 EXECUTIVE & EDITORIAL OFFICES President’s Message and Hires New CEO American Watchmakers- By Andrew DeKeyser, CW21 By Justin Harrell, CW21 HOROLOGICAL TIMES AMERICAN WATCHMAKERS-CLOCKMAKERS INSTITUTE · SETTING SERVICE STANDARDS AND EDUCATING THE HOROLOGICAL COMMUNITY Clockmakers Institute (AWCI) page 5 page 27 701 Enterprise Drive Harrison, OH 45030 2021 Moonphase Calendar In Summary 866-FOR-AWCI (367-2924) page 22 Paiget Wins GPHG Award or 513-367-9800 with Thinnest Watch Fax 513-367-1414 Affiliate Chapter News By Andrew DeKeyser, CW21 awci@awci.com • www.awci.com page 39 page 28 www.facebook.com/MyAWCI École National de l’Horlogerie Donna Hardy Technical Discussion Watches and Wonders Show Online in 2021 Useful Watch Repair Fixtures Moon Phase Calendar A student at École National de Managing Editor Useful Watch Repair Fixtures, By Andrew DeKeyser, CW21 l’Horlogerie (The National School of Ext. 305 donna@awci.com Part 1 page 28 Watchmaking) in Quebec, Canada. See By Andrew H. Dervan, SFNAWCC Citizen Introduces Its First page 31. Janette Torres-Gomez and Mahlon Shetler Graphic Designer & page 9 Smart Watch From the Workshop Assistant Technical Support By Andrew DeKeyser, CW21 Measure Twice/Advice for Ext. 302 jgomez@awci.com page 28 Refreshing Tweezer Tips/Finally, Industry News Bulova Appoints VWI as a New Year with Good News/ Jason Champion, CW21 Antoine Simonin Wins Prize Time to Plan for 2021 Education Director and Watchmaking Specialist Authorized Service Center and By Jack Kurdzionak, CW21, FAWCI Ext. 303 jason@awci.com at Grand Prix d’Horlogerie Releases Commemorative Watch page 17 de Genève By Andrew DeKeyser, CW21 Mike Carpenter, CC21 By Andrew DeKeyser, CW21 page 29 DIY Tool Maker Clock Director page 25 Gear Cutter Collet clocks@awci.com Cousins Makes Progress with Education & By Hans Schwarz, CW21 HOROLOGICAL TIMES Right to Repair Law Certification page 37 ADVISORY COMMITTEE Bob Little, CC, CW, Chair By Andrew DeKeyser, CW21 page 25 AWCI Educational Calendar page 6 Classifieds Daniel Benson, CMW Paul Corn Buy, Sell, Trade, and Andrew DeKeyser, CW21 H2i Wins EPHJ Grand Prize Horological Education Employment Opportunities Dale LaDue, CMW21 By Andrew DeKeyser, CW21 Around the World page 40 Jason Ziegenbein, CW21 page 26 École National de l’Horlogerie (The National School of Watchmaking) Québec, Canada AWCI Directory Event Updates: JCK Tucson By Daniel Benson, CMW Advertisers’ Index and More page 31 page 42 By Andrew DeKeyser, CW21 page 26 Columns Board of Directors page 42 Reprinting and reproduction is prohibited without written Rebag to Sell Luxury Watches Watchmaker’s Tip permission from the American Watchmakers-Clockmakers By Andrew DeKeyser, CW21 Three Methods for Straightening Fellows Institute. Copyright © 2021 by the American Watchmakers- page 27 Bent Watch Train Wheel Pivots page 42 Clockmakers Institute. page 15 Industry Advisory Horological Times (ISSNO 145-9546) is published monthly and copyrighted by the American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Board Members page 42 Institute, 701 Enterprise Drive, Harrison, OH 45030-1696. Subscription price for the public is $175.00 per year OUR VISION: ($15.00 per copy). Members subscription is $99.00 which AWCI’s vision is to have an educated and passionate horological community practicing is included with annual dues of $175.00. Periodicals post- the highest standards and with the resources to provide quality goods and services. age paid at Harrison, OH 45030 and additional entries. OUR MISSION: POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Horological Times, Setting service standards and educating the horological community. 701 Enterprise Drive, Harrison, OH 45030. Like us on Facebook! Follow us on Twitter! Follow us on Instagram! www.facebook.com/HorologicalTimes www.twitter.com/AWCInstitute www.instagram.com/americanwatchmakers Like us on Facebook! Check out our educational videos! www.facebook.com/MyAWCI www.youtube.com/awci/videos 3
Renewal Notice We are excited about 2021 at AWCI! If you have already renewed—THANK YOU! If you have not, there is still time. You can renew via the invoice that was emailed to you, or you can choose one of the options below. Please renew today to keep your HT subscription active and to receive all your AWCI benefits. You won’t want to miss out. Renew Today! (https://awci.memberclicks.net/renew) You can choose Automatic Renewal and your credit card will be billed automatically each year for your membership dues. Note: You will not receive a renewal notice in the mail. Important! We have switched to a new system for managing our membership, so this renewal notice and the invoice you received by email will look different than they have in the past. 2021: Your annual dues continue to be only $150! This includes a digital subscription to Horological Times plus all the other benefits you count on. *If you would like to continue to receive a printed copy of Horological Times in the mail, be sure to upgrade your mem- bership to the Regular Plus HT membership, which is just $175 for US members and $205 for international members. The printed copy of Horological Times now features matte paper, which makes it easier to read in well-lit environments. To pay your dues with a credit card: • Go to https://awci.memberclicks.net/renew or check your email for the link that was sent to you. • If you are viewing HT digitally, click on the “RENEW NOW” and complete the form. You will need to log in with your username ##[Username]## and password. If you haven’t set your new password yet, you will need to click on the “forgot password” link. • Select your membership type. • Double check your contact information and update your directory listing. • If you would like to have next year’s dues automatically paid, you can check the box for automatic renewal. Your credit card information is not stored at AWCI. It will be securely stored with the credit card processor. To pay your dues with a check: • Contact us at memberservices@awci.com. • Or send us this page or a photocopy of it, mark your membership type, and mail it with your check. (Mail to: AWCI • 701 Enterprise Drive • Harrison, OH 45030) An email will automatically be generated when payment is processed or to notify you of any late payments. Note: You will not receive a renewal notice in the mail. RENEW NOW (https://awci.memberclicks.net/renew) Name Phone number Email address Membership type Membership Types Regular includes digital HT subscription-$150 Regular Plus HT includes print and digital HT subscriptions-$175 Senior age 70-79 includes digital HT subscription-$135. Print HT subscription-$160 Senior age 80+ includes digital HT subscription-$120. Print HT subscription-$145 Student Rates, REC, Affiliate Chapter, or IAB, contact us at 513-367-9800, ext. 303 Lifetime to receive Horological Times in the mail, include $25 and your information above.
a message from the president JUSTIN HARRELL, CW21 As I start this month’s mes- harder.” I propose we make this our mantra as we re- sage, I am at AWCI head- organize and plan for a successful future. quarters in Harrison, Ohio, As we refocus our efforts, let’s all consider how trying to determine the “state much time we are willing to give. If you are enthusi- of the union.” Since my wife astic enough to belong to the AWCI, then you must can work remotely, she has be passionate about horology, because membership is joined me on this road trip. not mandatory. We love our profession and want to My goal for the week is to see it flourish. Anyone who can challenge themselves talk with committee chair- daily and enjoy what they do for a living is blessed be- Justin Harrell jharrell@awci.com persons and members, eval- yond belief. So, I am asking you to participate in our 828-551-0741 uate the building, and try to future. Engage with your AWCI community. Volun- understand our mission as an organization. teer your time. Volunteer your opinion. If you think It is glaringly obvious to me that we have a very we are doing something right, let us know. If you large facility being underutilized. I was think we should focus efforts elsewhere, let not in the organization or even a horolo- us know. To thrive again, we need members gist when headquarters was built, but I can Work to get involved, especially at this juncture. imagine that at the time there was a vision Abraham Lincoln once said, “Give me of offices buzzing with magazine staff, ad- smarter six hours to chop down a tree and I’ll spend ministrators assisting members, and edu- the first four sharpening the axe.” We should cators planning for classes. Today, it feels not heed his advice as we prepare for our future. like an outdated department store that sits Let’s spend our time organizing, prioritizing, empty, another casualty of the changing harder. and bringing ideas to completion before tack- tides of retail sales. ling new projects. If our current committees Before the COVID-19 shutdown this spring, un- are getting bogged down and not making progress, der the direction of the board, our administration then let’s simplify the objective, outline the steps, and attempted to lease unused space at headquarters to agree to realistic timelines to reach goals. This ap- create revenue. The idea fizzled, as there was little in- proach should apply to certification, tiered member- terest or support from the realty company contracted ship, the Horological Times, and every other benefit we at the time. We have since enlisted a local realty team provide. that has been a part of the Harrison community for I wish each of you a Healthy, Prosperous, and 30 years and will hopefully yield better results soon. Happy New Year. I send my support and wish you Like many industries adapting to a new way of good luck, as I know we are all working overtime to doing business, we too must get leaner and stronger. streamline our businesses, workflow, vision, and fu- You’ve probably heard the saying, “Work smarter not ture. I have high hopes for us all. Horological Times 5
educational calendar Check out AWCI’s complete line We also have 46 classes for clockmakers, includ- of courses for watchmakers and ing classes on: clockmakers! h American Time-and-Strike Movement AWCI will not be holding classes in Harrison, Ohio, h Advanced Clock Repair or on its mobile classroom until projections of the h Introduction to the Lathe virus subsiding have become more predictable or there is a vaccine widely available. In the mean- time, we invite you to browse our course catalog, www.awci.com/course-catalog, which offers 46 class- See our catalog for more! es for watchmakers, including classes for beginners, We can use your help technicians, and, of course, experienced watchmakers We are always looking to expand our course cata- who want to sharpen their skills. log and educational resources as well as increase our In the catalog, you’ll find classes on: team of instructors. During this downtime, we want h Introduction to Watchmaking to develop new courses and find new instructors who h Quartz will collaborate with us. Reach out to us at education @awci.com if there is a class you would like to col- h Vintage Watch Repair laborate on as an instructor. h Tool Making We look forward to receiving your class requests h Precision Timing and we hope to have a new list of classes to offer when the pandemic is under control. 6 January 2021
Reserve your spot today. Contact the education director, Jason Champion, CW21, at 866-FOR-AWCI (367-2924), ext. 303. Prices reflect members’ discount! Contact us so we can help you find the best course suited to your skill level, expertise, and interests. $595 March Herschede Tubular Bell Clocks Michael will share his knowledge gained from 40 years of experience through his extensive PowerPoint presentation with over 200 photos focusing on examples 24-26 Instructor: Michael Gainey, CC21 AWCI Headquarters, Harrison, Ohio of issues before and after a rebuild that are unique to most common Herschede Tubular Bell movements. Come to AWCI’s well-equipped machine shop to join David Lindow for this prac- $595 tical, hands-on class where gearing and gear cutting will be practiced. Students March Practical Gear Cutting for the Horologist Session 1 will not only learn the basic setups for cutting horological gears, but they’ll also learn multiple approaches to tooling as well as theory from a practical stand- 24-26 Instructor: David Lindow AWCI Headquarters, Harrison, Ohio point. Students will learn about wheel and pinion engagements and gain a fuller understanding of horological gearing in general. While the focus of the class will be on making gears and pinions, the skills taught will transfer to general repair and improve the success rate of all clock repairers. $595 March Practical Gear Cutting for the Horologist Session 2 See description above. 27-29 Instructor: David Lindow AWCI Headquarters, Harrison, Ohio October WATCH 420S: Vintage Chronograph Short Course $595 Back by popular demand. In this course, you will go through, theoretically and practically, different vintage chronograph calibers with emphasis on trouble- 5-7 Instructor: Bernhard Stoeber, CW21 AWCI Headquarters, Harrison, Ohio shooting, repair, and adjustments to each mechanism. Lemania, Landeron, and Valjoux calibers will be covered. https://www.awci.com/webinars Free/discounted webinars for AWCI members! You asked for it, you got it! Many of you have asked for online education. While AWCI’s in-person education is on a hiatus, you can still learn from our excellent instructors—Tom Schomaker, CMW21; Jason Champion, CW21; Jordan Ficklin, CW21; Bernhard Stoeber, CW21; David LaBounty; and Ken De Lucca. Missed a webinar? No worries, check out the on-demand webinars. Choose a topic from a list of pre-recorded webinars. Here are some of the topics we cover. 5 Watch Basics for Beginners and Collectors 5 Explore Watchmaking 5 Professional Essentials (A Hands-On Digital Webinar for Beginners) 5 Basic Watch Repair Skills 5 Tool Maintenance 5 Hairsprings 5 Workshop 5 Clocks And more! Stay involved, sharpen your skills, ask questions, and so much more! Have a topic in mind for a webinar? Send your suggestions to awci@awci.com! For additional details about specific courses in comprehensive syllabi form, including complete tool lists, visit: www.awci.com/classes or contact the education director, Jason Champion, CW21, at 866-FOR-AWCI (367-2924), ext. 303. For additional calendar events visit: www.awci.com/calendar. Horological Times 7
FREE on-demand webinars! Take advantage of this great benefit. Once you download the link, you can watch the webinar any time, any place, as often as you like. You’ll also get the PowerPoint slides to keep as well as other handouts. Here are just a couple of the great webinars you have at your disposal. See www.awci.com/educationcareers/webinars/ for more! Lubrication 1: General Principles of Lubrication This webinar, presented by Jason Champion, CW21, is the first in a series of webinars on lubrication for professional watchmakers. Topics include the latest insights from the industry about types of lubricants and their application and general guidelines for applying lubricants when technical documentation is not available. Also covered: • History of watch lubricants • Sliding friction • Capillary action • Best practices • Surface tension • Creeping • Where and when to use lubricants • Stiction • Viscosity • Oils for faster/low-torque and slower/ • Importance of cleanliness • Specific uses for lubricants high-torque situations Handouts • General Lubrication Chart • Moebius Technical Data Sheet—SYNT-HP1300 9104 • Lubrication table • PowerPoint slides • Moebius Technical Data Sheet—SYNT-A-LUBE 9010 AWCI Members—FREE Everyone else—$25 The Chronograph Presented by Jordan Ficklin, CW21, this webinar presents information on the chronograph, including: • The history of the chronograph • Types of chronograph dials • Types of chronograph scales • Types of mechanisms • Operation of the chronograph—including demonstra- tions with slow-motion video • Identifying common chronographs, including ETA 7750 and variants, Omega 861 and 1143, modular chrono- graphs, and Rolex Daytonas 4030 vs 4130 Handout PowerPoint slides AWCI Members—FREE Everyone else—$25
Technical Discussion: Useful Watch Repair Fixtures, Part 1 Useful Watch Repair Fixtures Part 1 By Andrew H. Dervan, SFNAWCC and Mahlon Shetler Introduction some fixtures were split using a jeweler’s saw and cut Repairing or manufacturing new parts for pocket by hand. The cuts can be equally spaced using the lathe watches and wristwatches can be simpler and easi- headstock indexing plate and scribing a line with the er when using specialized fixtures to safely hold the cross slide and a tool post or even a handheld graver. part while machining it on a lathe. Often, the greatest challenge in working on Making Collets: The Basics small components is effectively holding the piece Specialized collets are extremely useful for unique while also making it accessible for further finishing. situations and form the foundation of many of the As better jigs and fixtures are developed and refined, different fixtures discussed below. Begin by choosing parts that may have been considered impossible or the right stock; the average 8mm lathe can handle a extremely difficult to work on are now within the 1/2" round bar stock, and a 10mm lathe can handle watchmaker’s grasp. 5/8" bar stock. Most of the fixtures described here are brass be- The first step is to make the part of the collet that cause it is soft and easy to work but also durable. The goes inside the lathe headstock (this is standardized fixtures are quickly roughed to their approximate di- for most fixtures and must match your lathe). Mount mensions on a large lathe and then finished on a the bar in the headstock using a regular collet or a smaller lathe or mill as needed. Final refinements chuck. It should be reasonably well centered in the can be done by hand, if necessary. chuck, but don’t worry if it’s not perfect: machining Brass stock for making fixtures like these can be of the stock will ensure your new collet is accurate. purchased from metal shops or online, but a useful Once mounted, do not remove or adjust it until all source may be your local “real” machine shops that operations are completed: this includes turning the typically work on a much larger scale than clockmak- body to size and shape, cutting the threads, drilling ers or watchmakers. Look for scrap, cutoffs, mis- the inside partway through, and polishing. Before takes, or even obsolete components. You may also cutting it off, mill the key slot using either a round be able to get the machinist to rough out the parts end mill or a slot cutter (the dimensions of which for you, reducing the larger stock to the approximate must match the width of the desired key slot). A slot dimensions of your proposed fixture. Being able to cutter is preferable because it produces the cleanest draw the blueprints properly (instead of sketches on job, but careful use of a round-end mill can give sat- the back of an envelope) will also greatly enhance isfactory results. your relationship with the machinist and help ensure Cut the threads using the lathe or a die to match the job is done correctly. your lathe’s drawbar. If using a die, make the blank a Making fixtures takes time, but doing the work little longer and turn a shoulder on the to-be-thread- without a proper fixture can often take many times ed end the exact internal diameter of the die. This longer. In some cases, the job may not even be possi- will nicely center the die before it starts cutting, en- ble without an adequate way to hold the part. When suring the thread is accurately on center. designing a new fixture, keep the concept as multi- The collet is now ready to be cut off the stock so purpose as possible so that it can be used in other the front end can be finished in the lathe for which ways and for other parts in the future, amortizing it has been designed. This point is notable, since, if your investment of time and money. you have multiple lathes, you may do the back end Producing the kind of fixtures illustrated in this of the collet on a larger lathe, but the “working end” article may look more complicated than it actually is. of the collet must match the lathe in which it will Fixtures that require splitting, such as collets or any- be used. It is during this second stage that the cus- thing that expands or contracts, pose an extra level of tom-designed aspects of the collet or fixture will be difficulty, but that can be readily overcome. Note that made to suit the desired application. Horological Times 9
Technical Discussion: Useful Watch Repair Fixtures, Part 1 Now that the new collet is mounted in the lathe, slot to the center hole is quickly and easily removed. split the collet and accurately drill the center hole. This Again, a microscope is essential to ensure the final is actually done in a three-stage process to ensure the cuts are precisely radial from the center. If the outer highest possible accuracy. wide slot was not quite radial to the center hole, it is First, use an indexable screw-slotting tool to cre- not a big deal because you can guide the thin saw so ate three preliminary wide-radial cuts from the pe- that the cut comes down exactly on center. rimeter to about three-quarters toward the center. Access holes (“windows”) on the side of a col- These wide slots will provide easy access for the saw let greatly enhance its functionality, improving the in the final splitting and will help ensure accuracy. visibility of the work, and also allow the workpiece Next, the center hole is drilled. When drilling to be manipulated with tweezers, if needed. Such ac- the center hole in a new collet, a microcenter drill cess holes on the collet’s sides can be made with a will create a small pilot depression to get a precise large or small mill. This step can be taken before or center for the final drill. Choose the final drill to after splitting the collet. perfectly match your desired diameter so the hole is finished in a single operation. A microscope of ap- Customizing Your New Collets proximately 30X is highly recommended to ensure and Chucks there is no discernable wobble. Once the center hole The following examples of various fixtures are not is accurately drilled, the collet can be removed from intended to be copied or replicated (hence, no specific the lathe for the final splitting. diagrams, blueprints, or measurements are provided). Finish splitting the collet by holding it to a high- Rather, they are intended to spark your imagination, speed, very fine-toothed and thin circular saw mount- encourage you to design and produce your own fix- ed in the lathe headstock. Having already cut much of tures, and illustrate the almost limitless possibilities the material away with the wide slots in the first stage, of specialized fixtures. the remaining material from the bottom of the wide Fixture No. 1: Holding inside diameters, such be turned on the lathe and then transferred on the as a pulley or gear blank fixture for the next procedure. This is designed to hold items with a small inside A similar version with a working screw on the diameter, such as the pulley that is shown in the il- other end can be made to hold crown blanks. This lustration. The split is expanded when the tapered fixture can be designed to go inside the recess on center is threaded into the collet. Another very use- pocket watch and some wristwatch crowns, simpli- ful application is holding clock gear blanks while fying the knurling on an onion crown. cutting teeth or milling out the spokes. The post can This design also lends itself readily to many other be mounted in a collet or chuck and the blank can useful applications in micro sizes. Fig. 1. Pulley attached to the fixture. Fig. 2. Pulley removed from the fixture. 10 January 2021
Fixture No. 2: Holding regular round items This fixture is basically a bezel chuck and can be used solid item, such as the back cover of a pocket watch to hold anything of a regular round and flat pattern or wristwatch, providing it has a lip. such as a wristwatch case. The size is limited by the This fixture is designed to be mounted in a col- stock diameter. It is also possible to put multiple steps let by the rear third portion to allow the expansion on one chuck to optimize its flexibility. The screw caused by a taper on the screwhead that engages the can be put on the other end to allow for holding a taper inside the fixture. Fig. 3. Wristwatch case attached to the Fig. 4. Wristwatch case removed fixture. from the fixture. Fixture No. 3: Holding large crowns This fixture consists of a deep cup that will accept watch crown, allowing the inside of the crown to be a large-diameter item such as a spherical pocket machined. Fig. 5. A crown held in the fixture. Fig. 6. The crown removed to show the inside of the fixture cup. Horological Times 11
Technical Discussion: Useful Watch Repair Fixtures, Part 1 Fixture No. 4: Holding flat, round items This outside-diameter chuck is designed to hold a Then, by numbering the compression screws on the flat disk such as the quarter shown in the photo. This periphery, the finished piece can be replaced by the chuck style is very useful for repetitive work. The next one by loosening only one screw to release the piece being worked upon can be trued very carefully. part while retaining the established center. Fig. 7. The fixture holding a quarter. Fig. 8. The fixture without the quarter and removed from the headstock to show the three compression arms. Fixture No. 5: Holding irregular parts by using an off-center or elongated hole This collet features an off-center or elongated hole like this as a simple solution. The elongated portion to accommodate an irregular protrusion such as the should not overlap with the center hole too much, or impulse pin on a pin lever balance. There are so many the collet will not center the work properly. other similar situations that call for a special collet Fig. 9. Holding a watch balance with the Fig. 10. Watch balance removed to impulse pin in the elongated/off-center show the elongated/off-center hole. hole. 12 January 2021
Fixture No. 6: Installing or removing chronograph pushers This is a regular brass collet with a conical nose. The brass is soft enough to grab onto the fluted edge There are various uses for it, but the most common without damage. one is installing and removing chronograph pushers. Fig. 11. Holding a chronograph pusher. Fig. 12. The chronograph pusher removed to show conical nose. Acknowledgments The authors want to thank John Creamer for the fixture photographs. Andrew Dervan is an antique-clock collector who runs a clock appraisal business. He has published many articles in NAWCC’s Watch & Clock Bulletin, American Clock and Watch Museum Electronic Timepiece Journal, and Clocks Magazine. Mahlon Shetler, an Amish watchmaker, has been repairing watches for over 25 years, developing micromachining skills. He co-publishes a monthly newsletter Time Keepers Bulletin. Horological Times 13
Antique Watch Restoration By Archie Perkins CMW, FAWI, FNAWCC, FBHI a must-have collection! These three volumes contain valuable information detailing comprehensive techniques for manufacturing components and restoring antique wristwatches and pocket watches. “Antique Watch Restoration, Volumes I & II are comprehensive books that contain plenty of hard-to-find, useful, practical information. These are the first books I consult when searching for a solution to part-making in restoration.” The Smithsonian Magazine ranked Columbia, PA, Henrik Korpela among the top 20 best small towns to visit in the United Korpela & Hofs Watchmaking Competence Centre States, in part, because of its strength in history. Le Locle, Switzerland www.awci.com/online-store The National Watch & Don’t have these books? Purchase them today at www.awci.com/online-store/. Clock Museum provides a wealth of information about the art and science $99.99 $99.99 $84.99 Plus Shipping and Handling Plus Shipping and Handling Plus Shipping and Handling of timekeeping. When you can’t visit the museum, Visit NAWCC.ORG Antique WAtch RestoRAtion check out the webinars and and click EVENTS podcasts about horology to view upcoming Archie B. Perkins for everyone who loves Mr. Perkins, the author of Antique events and classes. Watch Restoration, Volume 1, has more than 70 years of experience in the watchmaking and clockmaking trade, starting at age fifteen. Archie has spent more than 40 years, part time and full time, making wheels and pinions and other parts for antique watches and watches, clocks, and all clocks, and has restored antique and complicated watches. A watchmaking and clockmaking instructor for Denver Public Schools for 32 years, Archie was elected “Vocational Educator of the Year” by the teachers’ union in 1981. He also things to do with keeping conducted basic and advanced lathe III Archie B. Perkins courses for the American Watchmak- ers-Clockmakers Institute (AWCI). Additionally, he served on the AWCI Board of Directors from 1985 to 1988. Contact the Education He has achieved the distinguished titles of Certified Master Watchmaker and CMW, FAWI, FNAWCC, FBHI Archie B. Perkins Fellow of the American Watchmak- time. Listen on Spotify, ers-Clockmakers Institute, Fellow of the National Association of Watch and Clock Collectors, and Fellow of the British Horological Institute. Department For 25 years, Archie wrote the monthly column, “Technically Watches,” for AWCI’s Horological Times. Many of his articles were also published in the Brit- iTunes, and Sound Cloud. Vol. III ish Horological Journal, Watch and Clock Review, and the National Association of at 717.684.8261, ext. 237 FPO Watch and Clock Collectors Bulletin. Archie was co-author of The Watch- maker’s Staking Tool, published by K and D Staking Tool Co., 1987. He also wrote The Modern Watchmakers Lathe and How to Use It, published by AWCI in 2003. or education@nawcc.org. 14 January 2021
Three Methods for Straightening Bent Watch Train Wheel Pivots Fig. 1 1. Chuck the bent pivot lightly in a good, true wire chuck, as shown, with the bend lined up with the outside edge of the hole in the chuck. Then, use your fingers to manipulate the wheel to straighten the pivot. Use a very light touch when moving the pinion during this straightening process. The lathe should not be turning during the straightening process, but it can be turned slowly to check the truth of the pinion. When the pinion runs true, the pivot should be straight. 2. Chuck the pinion true in a wire chuck as alcohol flame before using it on the bent pivot. shown. Drill a hole slightly larger than the bent This will remove the chill from the pivot to pivot into the end of a thin brass rod and use help prevent it from breaking when it is being it over the pivot to straighten it. Sometimes straightened. Use a very light touch on the rod a piece of bushing wire with a small enough to prevent overdoing the operation. hole can be used for this purpose. Chuck Fig. 2 the pinion true and turn the lathe by hand until the end of the bent pivot points upward as shown in Figure 2. Place the drilled rod onto the pivot where the bend starts. Using your fingers, manipulate the end of the rod downward to straighten the pivot. Turn the lathe slowly while you check the pivot for truth. This process may need to be repeated to finally make the pivot run true. Note: It is advisable to warm the brass rod over an Horological Times 15
Column: Watchmaker’s Tip: Three Methods for Straightening Bent Watch Train Wheel Pivots 3. This method employs a pair of brass or Fig. 3 nickel silver tweezers to straighten the pivot. Again, it is a good idea to warm the tweezers also before using them to straighten a pivot. You can use an old pair of tweezers that has become stubby from years of use. Prepare the jaws by filing them square at their ends. Then, file the insides of the jaws flat so they come together flat and parallel as shown in Figure 3. To use the tweezers to straighten a pivot, first chuck up the pinion true in the lathe. Turn the lathe by hand until the bent pivot points up- ward as shown. Now, warm the tweezers and apply them to the pivot as shown. The tweezer jaws close on the pivot and, at the same time, the pivot is pinched downward to straighten the pivot. The lathe can then be turned slowly to check the pivot for trueness. This tip is adapted from Antique Watch Restoration, Vol. I , by Archie Perkins, chapter 17, The Maintenance of Watch Train Wheel Pivots, page 275. 16 January 2021
From the Workshop By Jack Kurdzionak, CW21, FAWCI Measure Twice Most of us have heard the carpenter’s timeless expres- with such watches, it is possible to formulate an sion… “Measure twice, cut once.” In a literal sense, estimate that in most cases will be quite accurate. the carpenter who confirms the measurement is less Infrequent estimating errors, either too high or too apt to make a costly error by cutting a board too low, generally balance out so that on average, this short and rendering it useless for the project at hand. process works well. Figuratively speaking, it admonishes the carpenter Watches that show evidence of requiring more to plan and prepare in a careful, thorough manner than routine service warrant a more detailed exam- before taking action. When one begins without ade- ination. For example, any rust in the movement or quate preparation, a project can quickly change from water damage to the hands or dial can indicate prob- being routine to being far more complicated than it lems, many of which are hidden until the watch is would have been with diligent planning at the begin- partially or fully disassembled. Obvious mismatched ning. Although we understand the concept, do we parts are a warning sign that the watch may be a so- always follow the sound advice to plan well and to called “Frankenwatch” (https://www.gearpatrol.com think before we act? /watches/a426602/what-is-a-frankenwatch/) that was For a watchmaker, the planning needs to begin constructed with parts from various sources, which when the watch is first examined. Any preexisting may or may not work well together. Watches with conditions in the watch’s appearance or functioning parts such as plates and bridges that have been ob- need to be noted during the take-in examination, viously modified with a file also require a detailed versus later while completing the repair. In the past, inspection. Depending on the extent of the damage we may have drawn an image of the watch and created or wear, these watch movements are examined more a written document outlining the defects plus any rigorously so that a detailed estimate, with a basic la- observed mechanical flaws. Thanks to technology, bor charge plus an itemized list of needed spare parts, that procedure has been supplanted by taking photos can be formulated. Because these more detailed es- of the watch and noting any mechanical flaws. timates take additional time and effort to organize, At this point in the estimating process, it is time an estimating fee is certainly reasonable and often to decide about a given repair by asking the following expected by the client. question, “Am I qualified to service this watch?” If the This is not the time to guess whether a spare part answer is “No,” then the watchmaker should decline the will be available or to guess at the cost of the spare repair. There are just some watches that a watchmaker part. I have yet to discover any method for gauging the should not repair for various reasons, including lack availability and cost of spare parts, other than relying of skill, lack of proper equipment, or the inability to on recent experience with the same part or conducting obtain proper spare parts. If the answer is “Yes,” then some research. The Internet is a great resource for the watchmaker must decide if the repair is routine finding spare parts and their costs. Another resource enough to generate a highly accurate estimate, based is your computer database. Almost every part I have on the initial examination and confirmation that there purchased for the past 15 years is in the database are no obvious problems in need of further scrutiny. along with the cost and sourcing data. Of course, if Depending on a watchmaker’s previous experience the part was last purchased more than a couple of Horological Times 17
Column: From the Workshop years ago, the part may no longer be available at the Such events can be prevented by regularly re- former price or not available at any price. In 2008, freshing the tweezers’ tips. Refreshing bronze twee- there was a barrel and mainspring for a well-known zer tips is very easy and can make them as functional Swiss brand that sold for $25. Today, that same barrel as a new pair. Because bronze can be somewhat de- and mainspring are still available from the brand, but formed without fracturing, bent tips can be made the price is now $200. Guessing what to charge for parallel by gently reforming the tips. Oftentimes, labor or parts is a serious error and most often not pressing the tip against a steel bench block is all it in the watchmaker’s favor. Instead of measuring once takes to return the tip to be parallel with its mate. before cutting or not bothering to measure at all, it is The inner surfaces of the tips can be made flat with best to measure twice or even thrice to get it right the a slight graining by drawing the inner surface of each first time. tip lengthwise while gently squeezing the tweezer tips together on a sheet of #240 emery cloth (see the Epilogue photo below). One tweezer tip is refreshed by the While writing this article, I was speaking with a lo- abrasive side of the cloth, while pressing the other tip cal carpenter who was updating the old windows in a on the smooth back side of the cloth keeps the tips home with high-quality, custom-made replacements. parallel during the procedure. After a few strokes on During the installation he realized that one window one tip, the tweezers are turned over to refresh the was three inches too wide. He rechecked his original other surface. order with the window company and the window was Do not forget the sharp point where the tweezer made exactly to his specifications. What went wrong? tips meet. Both tips need to be the same length. Use He made a measuring error and did not measure twice a light stroke or two with an Arkansas stone to make before placing his order. The window company cheer- the ends of both tips touch each other. Finally, the fully made another new window with the correct mea- outer surfaces of both tips can be restored to their surements, at the carpenter’s expense. He now owns a original profile by tapering the outer surfaces of the new window he may never use. tweezers with the same #240 emery cloth. Use #320 emery cloth for a smooth, final exterior finish. I can Advice for Refreshing Tweezer Tips assure you that frequently refreshing the tweezer tips Watchmaker’s tweezers gradually show signs of wear takes far less time than trying to find a cap jewel that and tear from constant use. When I try to pick up was sent flying by a worn pair of tweezers. a very thin cap jewel, that wear be- comes apparent. After a few unsuc- cessful attempts I am reminded it is time to refresh the tweezers’ tips. By then those tips usually have their inner surfaces worn smooth with rounded edges. Sometimes the tips are no longer parallel, which means the tips show daylight between them when pressed together. Smooth, rounded tweezer tips that are also no longer parallel will not hold a jewel, screw, or any other watch part secure- ly. As the tips wear, the tendency is to squeeze a bit harder to hold the part. This is remarkably counterproductive, as the extra pressure can send the part flying. Refreshing tweezers by using an emery cloth. 18 January 2021
Finally, a New Year with Good News diseases are only a bad memory. Perhaps we believed As I write this today, the news reports are featuring that such diseases could not happen again in our the most welcome news I have heard this year regard- modern society and that contagions only struck in ing COVID-19. Three pharmaceutical companies, another era or another place. Well, we are learning two American and one British, announced that they our lesson in terms of how vulnerable humanity re- have developed vaccines that are 90%-95% effective ally was then, and still is. As was written over 2,000 at preventing COVID-19. We have been patiently years ago, “What has been will be again, and what waiting since last March for hopeful news in our has been done will be done again; there is nothing fight against this viral scourge, which has killed and new under the sun.” (Ecclesiastes 1:9) disabled hundreds of thousands of people. If these But, thankfully, we can now look ahead for a vaccines prove to be effective, we can realistically better 2021. I wish all of you a Happy and Healthy look forward to gradually resuming our customary New Year. way of life, such as visiting with family and friends, going to the theater, enjoying a restaurant meal, and Time to Plan For 2021 participating in other activities that have been on There is no guarantee that 2021 will mark the end hold for so long. of the pandemic, but we can certainly make some This country, as well as many others, has en- plans for the future. Let’s hope that by July 1, it will dured suffering and painful sacrifices during this again be reasonably safe to travel, attend classes, go past year. I believe most, if not all of us, have be- out to restaurants, and enjoy all those activities we come complacent about the dangers of a pandemic, cherish. Why wait until the pandemic has ended to and have forgotten that a similar pandemic ravaged begin planning for the future? Let’s remember that our grandparents and great-grandparents in 1918. In the activity restrictions are temporary and provide an light of our advancements in science and medicine, it opportunity to make plans for the time when we are seems we have grown confident that such contagious able to be active and to be together again. Jack Kurdzionak, watchmaker and watch material specialist, owned a Boston-area watch sales and service shop for 40 years. He has a BS (Northeastern University, 1967) and has studied at ETA, WOSTEP, BHI, SGUS, and AWCI, and works for Eckcells Watch Materials. Horological Times 19
Have you recently renovated your retail store? If your retail store has undergone a transition over the past couple of years, making your watch repair workshop attractively visible from the retail sales floor, we want to hear from you! Send us a couple photos and let us know approximately how much you invested in the renovations and what the impact has been on sales and service revenue. Email Editor@awci.com. would you like to read what makes brits tick? The Horological Journal – published monthly without fail since 1858 – gives you exclusive technical articles and practical updates on clock and watch making. You’ll find news on the latest issue and how to get it at www.bhi.co.uk 20 January 2021
Stay on the Cutting Edge Take Advantage of these AWCI Benefits Education & Certification AWCI’s top-notch education will help get you where you want to be in your career. Now you have access to all the excellent webinars presented by Tom Schomaker, Jason Champion, Bernhard Stoeber, Ken De Lucca, David LaBounty, and others! AWCI’s dedication to education continues and will grow in the future. Invest in yourself and your career! Certification is available for Tech Guides watchmakers and clockmakers. For more information, 15,000 tech guides at contact Jason Champion, CW21: Jason@awci.com; www.awci.com. 866-FOR-AWCI (367-2924) or 513-367-9800, ext. 303. Find a Professional Affiliate Chapters Directory Learn at your local guild from respected horologists It's easy for clients to find you when and meet other horologists in your area. Networking is they use AWCI's directory, which gets important for business and personal relationships! 12,000 searches per year. Henry B. Fried Library Horological Times Borrow from 3,500 books, from Archie Perkins to Improve your craft as you learn from the technical Henry B. Fried. FREE to all members. articles. Find out the latest developments in the industry. Keep up with the institute and its activities. Use the Books & DVDs classifieds to find a job, hire an employee, and buy or sell Members receive a 10% discount on books and DVDs equipment. Use display ads to promote your products as well as t-shirts, posters, and more! and services to HT’s targeted audience.
American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute Setting Service Standards and Educating the Horological Community SUNDAY MONDAY TUESDAY January WEDNESDAY THURSDAY 1 FRIDAY 2 SATURDAY SUNDAY 1 MONDAY 2 TUESDAY February 3 WEDNESDAY 4 20 THURSDAY 5 FRIDAY 6 SATURDAY 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 NM 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 NM 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 FM 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 28 FM 31 May June SUNDAY MONDAY TUESDAY WEDNESDAY THURSDAY FRIDAY SATURDAY SUNDAY MONDAY TUESDAY WEDNESDAY THURSDAY FRIDAY SATURDAY 1 1 2 3 4 5 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 NM 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 NM 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 FM 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 27 28 29 30 FM 30 31 31 September October SUNDAY MONDAY TUESDAY WEDNESDAY THURSDAY FRIDAY SATURDAY SUNDAY MONDAY TUESDAY WEDNESDAY THURSDAY FRIDAY SATURDAY 1 2 3 4 1 2 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 NM NM 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 FM FM 26 27 28 29 30 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31
21 SUNDAY 1 MONDAY 2 TUESDAY March 3 WEDNESDAY 4 THURSDAY 5 FRIDAY 6 SATURDAY SUNDAY MONDAY TUESDAY April WEDNESDAY 1 THURSDAY 2 FRIDAY NM=New Moon FM=Full Moon 3 SATURDAY 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 NM 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 NM 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 28 29 30 31 25 26 27 28 29 30 FM FM 31 July August SUNDAY MONDAY TUESDAY WEDNESDAY THURSDAY FRIDAY SATURDAY SUNDAY MONDAY TUESDAY WEDNESDAY THURSDAY FRIDAY SATURDAY 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 NM NM 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 FM FM 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 29 30 31 November December SUNDAY MONDAY TUESDAY WEDNESDAY THURSDAY FRIDAY SATURDAY SUNDAY MONDAY TUESDAY WEDNESDAY THURSDAY FRIDAY SATURDAY 1 2 3 4 5 6 1 2 3 4 NM NM 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 FM 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 FM 28 29 30 26 27 28 29 30 31 For details about specific courses offered at AWCI in comprehensive syllabi form, including complete tool lists, visit: www.awci.com/classes or contact the Education Director and Watchmaking Specialist at 866-FOR-AWCI (367-2924), ext. 303. For additional calendar events visit: www.awci.com/calendar www.awci.com/calendar
Your watch or clock is valuable. Why take chances? Your local AWCI Certified watchmaker and clockmaker are dedicated to competent and professional service. For more than 60 years, the members of the American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute (AWCI) have been providing the highest quality of care and service for watches and clocks. Please use our professional directory to find a watchmaker or clockmaker near you. www.awci.com/find-a-professional Find your local AWCI Certified watchmaker or clockmaker by visiting www.awci.com. American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute Phone: 513-367-9800, ext. 303 * Toll-Free: 866-367-2924 www.awci.com
Industry NEWS Antoine Simonin Wins Prize at Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève By Andrew DeKeyser, CW21 A ntoine Simonin rightfully won the Special Jury Prize of the 2020 Grand Prix d’ Horlogerie de Genève for his 60+ years of contributions to the Swiss watchmaking industry, particularly in the field of education. In 1966, Simonin co-founded WOSTEP (Watchmakers of Switzerland Training and Education Program), which became the gold stan- dard in training watchmakers. Under Simonin’s leadership, WOSTEP became internationally rec- ognized with schools in 17 countries and exams in six different languages. Today, Simonin continues his contributions to education in the international watchmaking Antoine Simonin, a Fellow of AWCI, was honored at the community with Editions Simonin. The pub- Grand Prix d’ Horlogerie de Genève. lishing company offers more than 8,000 books, Photo courtesy of Editions Simonin including many that are rare and out-of-print. The collection spans traditional watchmaking tech- Sources https://quillandpad.com/2020/11/17/on-the-importance-of-antoine-simonin-and-his-special-jury niques, histories of the industry and watchmaking -prize-at-the-2020-grand-prix-dhorlogerie-de-geneve-by-dr-rebecca-struthers/ companies, as well as other horological topics. https://tinyurl.com/y4vdmse8 Cousins Makes Progress with Right to Repair Law By Andrew DeKeyser, CW21 C ousins Material House, a leading wholesaler of equipment and components for the watch service and repair industry located in the UK, has been bat- available to conduct those repairs, adding to the waste problem. A survey conducted by the commit- tee found that the second (23%) and third (20%) tling Swatch Group in court for about four years over greatest factors preventing repair are lack of access to restrictive policies related to supplying parts. The case spare parts and repair manuals. is expected to have a final decision next year. In conclusion, the EAC recommends that the The House of Commons Environmental Audit government enshrine the right to repair in law,” en- Committee (EAC), part of the UK’s legislative body, forcing access to repair manuals, access to affordable has released a report highlighting consumer elec- spare parts, and the ability to repair products without tronics industry waste because its products are un- the use of special physical or software tools to sur- repairable. This report could have an impact on the mount barriers meant to prevent third-party repair. watch industry because the EAC found when some products were designed to be repaired, certain man- Source ufacturers failed to make parts and service manuals https://www.watchpro.com/right-to-repair-law-could-stop-restrictive-distribution-of-watch-parts/ Horological Times 25
Industry News H2i Wins EPHJ Grand Prize By Andrew DeKeyser, CW21 T he EPHJ Trade Show takes place annually in Geneva to showcase microtechnology compa- nies in the jewelry making, medical technology, and product significantly surpassed the limits of acous- tic measuring accuracy by testing mechanical move- ments in 32,400 watch positions in space. The pre- watchmaking industries. Even though the event was vious threshold was six positions. held virtually this year, the Awards Jury received H2i (Horology Instrumentation Innovation), many entries for the Grand Prix des Exposants. located in Cortaillod, Switzerland, was formed in Fischer Connectors, Norimat, Meyrat, Tornos, and June 2014. In acknowledging this award, H2i co- H2i were selected as the companies with the top five directors Jean-Charles Rousset and Emmanuel Baudet innovations. gave credit to the Acrotec Group’s R&D team for The coveted award went to H2i’s Accuracy their efforts in advancing the technology of acoustic Motion product, recognized for its revolutionary measurement for watches. advances in testing and adjusting chronometric pre- cision. Utilizing direct adjustment with an “inertial Sources and strain wave gearing unit,” the Accuracy Motion https://roboticsandautomationnews.com/2020/11/23/high-precision-watchmaking-technology -company-h2i-wins-grand-prize-in-ephj-awards/38402/ https://h2i.ch/en/ Event Updates: JCK Tucson and More By Andrew DeKeyser, CW21 T he Annual JCK Tucson Gem Show and the Tucson Gem Week community shows, original- ly scheduled for February 3-6, 2021, have been can- Gemologist Association announced that its annual conference will take place online in February 2021 and the Association will forego the presentation of celled due to the COVID-19 pandemic. According its Antonio C. Bonanno Award until 2022. to JCK Group Vice President Sarin Bachmann, “JCK Additional event updates include: the 24 Karat will continue to showcase the passion and creativity Club of the City of New York has cancelled its annu- of our industry’s most exceptional designers, crafts- al banquet; the luncheons for the Jeweler’s Security people, and brands with its JCK and Luxury shows Alliance and the Jewelers Vigilance Committee have in Las Vegas in June and online at JCKonline.com.” been moved online; and the Jewelers of America’s Originally scheduled alongside the JCK Show, Gem Awards have been rescheduled for July 2021. the Gem & Jewelry Exchange also decided to cancel their show, citing occupancy rules that would make Author’s note: This news is subject to change quickly due to various municipalities responding to the COVID-19 pandemic. the event impossible to facilitate. The Exchange plans Remember to check event status with organizers before to hold the next in-person show in February 2022. travelling. The American Gem Trade Association can- Source celled GemFair for 2021 and rescheduled the event https://www.jckonline.com/editorial-article/gem-fair-cancelled-watches-virtual/ for early February 2022. In addition, the Accredited 26 January 2021
Rebag to Sell Luxury Watches By Andrew DeKeyser, CW21 R ebag, a retailer of pre-owned designer handbags, has decided to expand their business to include used watches and jewelry in their physical and online learn from the experts about buying and selling lux- ury items while accessing resale reports, company pedigrees, and analytical articles on specific styles and stores. Rebag is only six years old but has locations models. in New York City, Miami, and Arcadia, California. The Boston Consulting Group forecasts an aver- The business buys high-end handbags for resale and age annual growth of 8% for secondhand “hard lux- is now accepting items from Patek Philippe, Rolex, ury” items, including watches, in the coming years. Tiffany & Co., and Cartier, among others. As with the luxury handbag market, Rebag will try Unlike other popular retail markets such as to capitalize on the high price points, collector-level RealReal, Rebag buys items directly from the public demand, and rarity of the secondhand luxury watch versus operating on consignment. When selling items market. online, customers use the company’s Clair by Rebag Program, which prices items based on condition and Source https://www.jckonline.com/editorial-article/rebag-adds-watches-jewelry/ demand. Sellers in physical stores get an offer in as lit- https://rebag.com/thevault/ tle as an hour and payment within five business days. Rebag’s webpage offers an educational portal, known as the “Vault”, where customers and collectors can Hodinkee Raises $40 Million and Hires New CEO By Andrew DeKeyser, CW21 H odinkee has raised $40 million in a Series B fund- ing round to further accelerate its expansion as a luxury watch content purveyor and authorized retailer lowing Clymer to focus on content creation for the company’s community. Bateman joins Hodinkee after years of patronage and teases, “…many exciting an- of several major brands, such as TAG Heuer, Breitling, nouncements” in his inaugural post on the website. and Tudor. Forbes estimates the value of the company The company has also hired Nick Marino as the to be around $100 million. Various venture groups new head of editorial. Marino has 18 years of expe- participated, including TCG, Chernin Group, LVMH rience in the publication business including stints at Luxury Ventures, True Ventures, Future Shape, and GQ, Apple, and Levi’s. Google Ventures as well as Grammy Award Winner Sources John Mayer and football’s Tom Brady. https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/weve-hired-a-great-new-ceo-heres-why-and-whats Founder Ben Clymer announced on December -next?mc_cid=87a963783d&mc_eid=458d3d721b 2 that Toby Bateman will join Hodinkee as CEO, al- https://www.watchpro.com/hodinkee-valued-at-100-million-following-latest-funding-round/ Andrew DeKeyser is the owner of HCP Watchmaking in Sisters, Oregon. He graduated from the Lititz Watch Technicum with WOSTEP certification. Horological Times 27
You can also read