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École National de l'Horlogerie Useful Watch Repair Fixtures 2021 Moon Phase Calendar - HOROLOGICAL TIMES - American ...
École National de l’Horlogerie
                                                                                                                                                              Useful Watch Repair Fixtures
                                                                                                                                                                                             2021 Moon Phase Calendar
TM

               HOROLOGICAL TIMES
January 2021                   AMERICAN WATCHMAKERS-CLOCKMAKERS INSTITUTE · SETTING SERVICE STANDARDS AND EDUCATING THE HOROLOGICAL COMMUNITY
École National de l'Horlogerie Useful Watch Repair Fixtures 2021 Moon Phase Calendar - HOROLOGICAL TIMES - American ...
Since 1920

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                                                                                          thickness of an average human hair. Vacuum: programmable from
•   Results of last 100 tests stored for reference.
                                                                                           -0.2 down to -0.5 bar. Pressure: programmable from +0.2 to +3.0 bar.
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École National de l'Horlogerie Useful Watch Repair Fixtures 2021 Moon Phase Calendar - HOROLOGICAL TIMES - American ...
IN THIS            VOLUME 45, NUMBER 1, January 2021

Official Publication of the American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute
                                                                         AWCI News                                     Hodinkee Raises $40 Million                                                                                                                                                     TM

                                                                                                                                                                   January 2021
EXECUTIVE & EDITORIAL OFFICES                                            President’s Message                           and Hires New CEO
American Watchmakers-                                                                                                  By Andrew DeKeyser, CW21
                                                                         By Justin Harrell, CW21
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 HOROLOGICAL TIMES

                                                                                                                                                                      AMERICAN WATCHMAKERS-CLOCKMAKERS INSTITUTE · SETTING SERVICE STANDARDS AND EDUCATING THE HOROLOGICAL COMMUNITY
Clockmakers Institute (AWCI)                                             page 5                                        page 27
701 Enterprise Drive
Harrison, OH 45030                                                       2021 Moonphase Calendar                       In Summary
866-FOR-AWCI (367-2924)                                                  page 22                                       Paiget Wins GPHG Award
or 513-367-9800                                                                                                        with Thinnest Watch
Fax 513-367-1414                                                         Affiliate Chapter News                        By Andrew DeKeyser, CW21
awci@awci.com • www.awci.com                                             page 39                                       page 28
www.facebook.com/MyAWCI                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                École National de l’Horlogerie

Donna Hardy
                                                                         Technical Discussion                          Watches and Wonders Show
                                                                                                                       Online in 2021
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       Useful Watch Repair Fixtures
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       Moon Phase Calendar

                                                                                                                                                                  A student at École National de
Managing Editor                                                          Useful Watch Repair Fixtures,                 By Andrew DeKeyser, CW21
                                                                                                                                                                  l’Horlogerie (The National School of
Ext. 305 donna@awci.com                                                  Part 1                                        page 28
                                                                                                                                                                  Watchmaking) in Quebec, Canada. See
                                                                         By Andrew H. Dervan, SFNAWCC                  Citizen Introduces Its First               page 31.
Janette Torres-Gomez                                                     and Mahlon Shetler
Graphic Designer &
                                                                         page 9
                                                                                                                       Smart Watch                               From the Workshop
Assistant Technical Support                                                                                            By Andrew DeKeyser, CW21                  Measure Twice/Advice for
Ext. 302 jgomez@awci.com                                                                                               page 28                                   Refreshing Tweezer Tips/Finally,
                                                                         Industry News                                 Bulova Appoints VWI as
                                                                                                                                                                 a New Year with Good News/
Jason Champion, CW21
                                                                         Antoine Simonin Wins Prize                                                              Time to Plan for 2021
Education Director and Watchmaking Specialist                                                                          Authorized Service Center and             By Jack Kurdzionak, CW21, FAWCI
Ext. 303 jason@awci.com                                                  at Grand Prix d’Horlogerie                    Releases Commemorative Watch              page 17
                                                                         de Genève                                     By Andrew DeKeyser, CW21
Mike Carpenter, CC21                                                     By Andrew DeKeyser, CW21                      page 29                                   DIY Tool Maker
Clock Director                                                           page 25                                                                                 Gear Cutter Collet
clocks@awci.com
                                                                         Cousins Makes Progress with                   Education &                               By Hans Schwarz, CW21
HOROLOGICAL TIMES                                                        Right to Repair Law                           Certification                             page 37
ADVISORY COMMITTEE
Bob Little, CC, CW, Chair
                                                                         By Andrew DeKeyser, CW21
                                                                         page 25
                                                                                                                       AWCI Educational Calendar
                                                                                                                       page 6
                                                                                                                                                                 Classifieds
Daniel Benson, CMW
Paul Corn
                                                                                                                                                                 Buy, Sell, Trade, and
Andrew DeKeyser, CW21                                                    H2i Wins EPHJ Grand Prize                     Horological Education                     Employment Opportunities
Dale LaDue, CMW21                                                        By Andrew DeKeyser, CW21                      Around the World                          page 40
Jason Ziegenbein, CW21                                                   page 26                                       École National de l’Horlogerie
                                                                                                                       (The National School of Watchmaking)
                                                                                                                       Québec, Canada
                                                                                                                                                                 AWCI Directory
                                                                         Event Updates: JCK Tucson                     By Daniel Benson, CMW                     Advertisers’ Index
                                                                         and More                                      page 31                                   page 42
                                                                         By Andrew DeKeyser, CW21
                                                                         page 26
                                                                                                                       Columns                                   Board of Directors
                                                                                                                                                                 page 42
Reprinting and reproduction is prohibited without written                Rebag to Sell Luxury Watches                  Watchmaker’s Tip
permission from the American Watchmakers-Clockmakers                     By Andrew DeKeyser, CW21                      Three Methods for Straightening           Fellows
Institute. Copyright © 2021 by the American Watchmakers-                 page 27                                       Bent Watch Train Wheel Pivots             page 42
Clockmakers Institute.                                                                                                 page 15
                                                                                                                                                                 Industry Advisory
Horological Times (ISSNO 145-9546) is published monthly
and copyrighted by the American Watchmakers-Clockmakers
                                                                                                                                                                 Board Members
                                                                                                                                                                 page 42
Institute, 701 Enterprise Drive, Harrison, OH 45030-1696.
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École National de l'Horlogerie Useful Watch Repair Fixtures 2021 Moon Phase Calendar - HOROLOGICAL TIMES - American ...
Renewal Notice
                                We are excited about 2021 at AWCI!
If you have already renewed—THANK YOU! If you have not, there is still time. You can renew
via the invoice that was emailed to you, or you can choose one of the options below. Please
renew today to keep your HT subscription active and to receive all your AWCI benefits.

                      You won’t want to miss out. Renew Today!
                                   (https://awci.memberclicks.net/renew)
You can choose Automatic Renewal and your credit card will be billed automatically each year for your
membership dues. Note: You will not receive a renewal notice in the mail.

Important! We have switched to a new system for managing our membership, so this renewal notice and the
invoice you received by email will look different than they have in the past.

2021: Your annual dues continue to be only $150! This includes a digital subscription to Horological Times plus
all the other benefits you count on.
*If you would like to continue to receive a printed copy of Horological Times in the mail, be sure to upgrade your mem-
bership to the Regular Plus HT membership, which is just $175 for US members and $205 for international members.
The printed copy of Horological Times now features matte paper, which makes it easier to read in well-lit environments.

To pay your dues with a credit card:
  • Go to https://awci.memberclicks.net/renew or check your email for the link that was sent to you.
  • If you are viewing HT digitally, click on the “RENEW NOW” and complete the form. You will need to log in
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  • Double check your contact information and update your directory listing.
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École National de l'Horlogerie Useful Watch Repair Fixtures 2021 Moon Phase Calendar - HOROLOGICAL TIMES - American ...
a message from the
                                       president                                              JUSTIN HARRELL, CW21
                            As I start this month’s mes-      harder.” I propose we make this our mantra as we re-
                            sage, I am at AWCI head-          organize and plan for a successful future.
                            quarters in Harrison, Ohio,           As we refocus our efforts, let’s all consider how
                            trying to determine the “state    much time we are willing to give. If you are enthusi-
                            of the union.” Since my wife      astic enough to belong to the AWCI, then you must
                            can work remotely, she has        be passionate about horology, because membership is
                            joined me on this road trip.      not mandatory. We love our profession and want to
                            My goal for the week is to        see it flourish. Anyone who can challenge themselves
                            talk with committee chair-        daily and enjoy what they do for a living is blessed be-
        Justin Harrell
      jharrell@awci.com     persons and members, eval-        yond belief. So, I am asking you to participate in our
         828-551-0741
                            uate the building, and try to     future. Engage with your AWCI community. Volun-
  understand our mission as an organization.                  teer your time. Volunteer your opinion. If you think
       It is glaringly obvious to me that we have a very      we are doing something right, let us know. If you
  large facility being underutilized. I was                             think we should focus efforts elsewhere, let
  not in the organization or even a horolo-                             us know. To thrive again, we need members
  gist when headquarters was built, but I can       Work                to get involved, especially at this juncture.
  imagine that at the time there was a vision                                 Abraham Lincoln once said, “Give me
  of offices buzzing with magazine staff, ad-      smarter              six hours to chop down a tree and I’ll spend
  ministrators assisting members, and edu-                              the first four sharpening the axe.” We should
  cators planning for classes. Today, it feels       not                heed his advice as we prepare for our future.
  like an outdated department store that sits                           Let’s spend our time organizing, prioritizing,
  empty, another casualty of the changing          harder.              and bringing ideas to completion before tack-
  tides of retail sales.                                                ling new projects. If our current committees
       Before the COVID-19 shutdown this spring, un-          are getting bogged down and not making progress,
  der the direction of the board, our administration          then let’s simplify the objective, outline the steps, and
  attempted to lease unused space at headquarters to          agree to realistic timelines to reach goals. This ap-
  create revenue. The idea fizzled, as there was little in-   proach should apply to certification, tiered member-
  terest or support from the realty company contracted        ship, the Horological Times, and every other benefit we
  at the time. We have since enlisted a local realty team     provide.
  that has been a part of the Harrison community for              I wish each of you a Healthy, Prosperous, and
  30 years and will hopefully yield better results soon.      Happy New Year. I send my support and wish you
       Like many industries adapting to a new way of          good luck, as I know we are all working overtime to
  doing business, we too must get leaner and stronger.        streamline our businesses, workflow, vision, and fu-
  You’ve probably heard the saying, “Work smarter not         ture. I have high hopes for us all.

Horological Times                                                                                                         5
École National de l'Horlogerie Useful Watch Repair Fixtures 2021 Moon Phase Calendar - HOROLOGICAL TIMES - American ...
educational calendar
    Check out AWCI’s complete line                             We also have 46 classes for clockmakers, includ-
    of courses for watchmakers and                         ing classes on:
    clockmakers!                                                h American Time-and-Strike Movement
    AWCI will not be holding classes in Harrison, Ohio,
                                                                h Advanced Clock Repair
    or on its mobile classroom until projections of the
                                                                h Introduction to the Lathe
    virus subsiding have become more predictable or
    there is a vaccine widely available. In the mean-
    time, we invite you to browse our course catalog,
    www.awci.com/course-catalog, which offers 46 class-
                                                           See our catalog for more!
    es for watchmakers, including classes for beginners,   We can use your help
    technicians, and, of course, experienced watchmakers   We are always looking to expand our course cata-
    who want to sharpen their skills.                      log and educational resources as well as increase our
        In the catalog, you’ll find classes on:            team of instructors. During this downtime, we want
         h Introduction to Watchmaking                     to develop new courses and find new instructors who
         h Quartz                                          will collaborate with us. Reach out to us at education
                                                           @awci.com if there is a class you would like to col-
         h Vintage Watch Repair
                                                           laborate on as an instructor.
         h Tool Making                                         We look forward to receiving your class requests
         h Precision Timing                                and we hope to have a new list of classes to offer
                                                           when the pandemic is under control.

6                                                                                                       January 2021
École National de l'Horlogerie Useful Watch Repair Fixtures 2021 Moon Phase Calendar - HOROLOGICAL TIMES - American ...
Reserve your spot today. Contact the education director, Jason Champion, CW21,
                        at 866-FOR-AWCI (367-2924), ext. 303.
 Prices reflect members’ discount! Contact us so we can help you find the best course suited to your skill level, expertise, and interests.
                                                                                         $595
 March                          Herschede Tubular Bell Clocks
                                                                                                   Michael will share his knowledge gained from 40 years of experience through his
                                                                                                   extensive PowerPoint presentation with over 200 photos focusing on examples
 24-26                          Instructor: Michael Gainey, CC21
                                AWCI Headquarters, Harrison, Ohio
                                                                                                   of issues before and after a rebuild that are unique to most common Herschede
                                                                                                   Tubular Bell movements.

                                                                                                   Come to AWCI’s well-equipped machine shop to join David Lindow for this prac-
                                ​		 $595                                                           tical, hands-on class where gearing and gear cutting will be practiced. Students
 March                          Practical Gear Cutting for the Horologist
                                Session 1
                                                                                                   will not only learn the basic setups for cutting horological gears, but they’ll also
                                                                                                   learn multiple approaches to tooling as well as theory from a practical stand-
 24-26                          Instructor: David Lindow
                                AWCI Headquarters, Harrison, Ohio
                                                                                                   point. Students will learn about wheel and pinion engagements and gain a fuller
                                                                                                   understanding of horological gearing in general. While the focus of the class will
                                                                                                   be on making gears and pinions, the skills taught will transfer to general repair
                                                                                                   and improve the success rate of all clock repairers.

                                ​		 $595
 March                          Practical Gear Cutting for the Horologist
                                Session 2                                                          See description above.
 27-29                          Instructor: David Lindow
                                AWCI Headquarters, Harrison, Ohio

 October                       WATCH 420S:
                               Vintage Chronograph Short Course
                                                                                        $595       Back by popular demand. In this course, you will go through, theoretically and
                                                                                                   practically, different vintage chronograph calibers with emphasis on trouble-
 5-7                           Instructor: Bernhard Stoeber, CW21
                               AWCI Headquarters, Harrison, Ohio
                                                                                                   shooting, repair, and adjustments to each mechanism. Lemania, Landeron, and
                                                                                                   Valjoux calibers will be covered.

                          https://www.awci.com/webinars
                                          Free/discounted webinars for AWCI members!
                                    You asked for it, you got it!
          Many of you have asked for online education. While AWCI’s in-person education is on a hiatus, you can still learn from our excellent
      instructors—Tom Schomaker, CMW21; Jason Champion, CW21; Jordan Ficklin, CW21; Bernhard Stoeber, CW21; David LaBounty; and Ken De Lucca.
           Missed a webinar? No worries, check out the on-demand webinars. Choose a topic from a list of pre-recorded webinars.
                                                   Here are some of the topics we cover.
     5 Watch Basics for Beginners and Collectors            5 Explore Watchmaking                                       5 Professional Essentials
                                                           (A Hands-On Digital Webinar for Beginners)
           5 Basic Watch Repair Skills                                                                                   5 Tool Maintenance
                 5 Hairsprings                                      5 Workshop                                                5 Clocks
                                                       And more!
           Stay involved, sharpen your skills, ask questions, and so much more! Have a topic in mind for a webinar?
                                         Send your suggestions to awci@awci.com!

                     For additional details about specific courses in comprehensive syllabi form, including complete tool lists,
                     visit: www.awci.com/classes or contact the education director, Jason Champion, CW21, at 866-FOR-AWCI
                     (367-2924), ext. 303. For additional calendar events visit: www.awci.com/calendar.

Horological Times                                                                                                                                                                     7
École National de l'Horlogerie Useful Watch Repair Fixtures 2021 Moon Phase Calendar - HOROLOGICAL TIMES - American ...
FREE on-demand webinars!
Take advantage of this great benefit. Once you download the link, you can watch the webinar
any time, any place, as often as you like. You’ll also get the PowerPoint slides to keep as well
as other handouts. Here are just a couple of the great webinars you have at your disposal. See
www.awci.com/educationcareers/webinars/ for more!

Lubrication 1: General
Principles of Lubrication
This webinar, presented by Jason Champion, CW21,
is the first in a series of webinars on lubrication for
professional watchmakers. Topics include the latest
insights from the industry about types of lubricants
and their application and general guidelines for
applying lubricants when technical documentation
is not available. Also covered:
 •   History of watch lubricants              •   Sliding friction                     •   Capillary action
 •   Best practices                           •   Surface tension                      •   Creeping
 •   Where and when to use lubricants         •   Stiction                             •   Viscosity
 •   Oils for faster/low-torque and slower/   •   Importance of cleanliness            •   Specific uses for lubricants
     high-torque situations

Handouts
 • General Lubrication Chart                                           • Moebius Technical Data Sheet—SYNT-HP1300 9104
 • Lubrication table                                                   • PowerPoint slides
 • Moebius Technical Data Sheet—SYNT-A-LUBE 9010                      AWCI Members—FREE              Everyone else—$25

The Chronograph
Presented by Jordan Ficklin, CW21, this webinar
presents information on the chronograph, including:
 •   The history of the chronograph
 •   Types of chronograph dials
 •   Types of chronograph scales
 •   Types of mechanisms
 •   Operation of the chronograph—including demonstra-
     tions with slow-motion video
 •   Identifying common chronographs, including ETA 7750
     and variants, Omega 861 and 1143, modular chrono-
     graphs, and Rolex Daytonas 4030 vs 4130

Handout
PowerPoint slides                                                     AWCI Members—FREE              Everyone else—$25
École National de l'Horlogerie Useful Watch Repair Fixtures 2021 Moon Phase Calendar - HOROLOGICAL TIMES - American ...
Technical Discussion: Useful Watch Repair Fixtures, Part 1

  Useful Watch Repair Fixtures
  Part 1
                                                                      By Andrew H. Dervan, SFNAWCC and Mahlon Shetler

  Introduction                                                    some fixtures were split using a jeweler’s saw and cut
  Repairing or manufacturing new parts for pocket                 by hand. The cuts can be equally spaced using the lathe
  watches and wristwatches can be simpler and easi-               headstock indexing plate and scribing a line with the
  er when using specialized fixtures to safely hold the           cross slide and a tool post or even a handheld graver.
  part while machining it on a lathe.
       Often, the greatest challenge in working on                Making Collets: The Basics
  small components is effectively holding the piece               Specialized collets are extremely useful for unique
  while also making it accessible for further finishing.          situations and form the foundation of many of the
  As better jigs and fixtures are developed and refined,          different fixtures discussed below. Begin by choosing
  parts that may have been considered impossible or               the right stock; the average 8mm lathe can handle a
  extremely difficult to work on are now within the               1/2" round bar stock, and a 10mm lathe can handle
  watchmaker’s grasp.                                             5/8" bar stock.
       Most of the fixtures described here are brass be-               The first step is to make the part of the collet that
  cause it is soft and easy to work but also durable. The         goes inside the lathe headstock (this is standardized
  fixtures are quickly roughed to their approximate di-           for most fixtures and must match your lathe). Mount
  mensions on a large lathe and then finished on a                the bar in the headstock using a regular collet or a
  smaller lathe or mill as needed. Final refinements              chuck. It should be reasonably well centered in the
  can be done by hand, if necessary.                              chuck, but don’t worry if it’s not perfect: machining
       Brass stock for making fixtures like these can be          of the stock will ensure your new collet is accurate.
  purchased from metal shops or online, but a useful              Once mounted, do not remove or adjust it until all
  source may be your local “real” machine shops that              operations are completed: this includes turning the
  typically work on a much larger scale than clockmak-            body to size and shape, cutting the threads, drilling
  ers or watchmakers. Look for scrap, cutoffs, mis-               the inside partway through, and polishing. Before
  takes, or even obsolete components. You may also                cutting it off, mill the key slot using either a round
  be able to get the machinist to rough out the parts             end mill or a slot cutter (the dimensions of which
  for you, reducing the larger stock to the approximate           must match the width of the desired key slot). A slot
  dimensions of your proposed fixture. Being able to              cutter is preferable because it produces the cleanest
  draw the blueprints properly (instead of sketches on            job, but careful use of a round-end mill can give sat-
  the back of an envelope) will also greatly enhance              isfactory results.
  your relationship with the machinist and help ensure                 Cut the threads using the lathe or a die to match
  the job is done correctly.                                      your lathe’s drawbar. If using a die, make the blank a
       Making fixtures takes time, but doing the work             little longer and turn a shoulder on the to-be-thread-
  without a proper fixture can often take many times              ed end the exact internal diameter of the die. This
  longer. In some cases, the job may not even be possi-           will nicely center the die before it starts cutting, en-
  ble without an adequate way to hold the part. When              suring the thread is accurately on center.
  designing a new fixture, keep the concept as multi-                  The collet is now ready to be cut off the stock so
  purpose as possible so that it can be used in other             the front end can be finished in the lathe for which
  ways and for other parts in the future, amortizing              it has been designed. This point is notable, since, if
  your investment of time and money.                              you have multiple lathes, you may do the back end
       Producing the kind of fixtures illustrated in this         of the collet on a larger lathe, but the “working end”
  article may look more complicated than it actually is.          of the collet must match the lathe in which it will
  Fixtures that require splitting, such as collets or any-        be used. It is during this second stage that the cus-
  thing that expands or contracts, pose an extra level of         tom-designed aspects of the collet or fixture will be
  difficulty, but that can be readily overcome. Note that         made to suit the desired application.

Horological Times                                                                                                              9
École National de l'Horlogerie Useful Watch Repair Fixtures 2021 Moon Phase Calendar - HOROLOGICAL TIMES - American ...
Technical Discussion: Useful Watch Repair Fixtures, Part 1

      Now that the new collet is mounted in the lathe,            slot to the center hole is quickly and easily removed.
 split the collet and accurately drill the center hole. This      Again, a microscope is essential to ensure the final
 is actually done in a three-stage process to ensure the          cuts are precisely radial from the center. If the outer
 highest possible accuracy.                                       wide slot was not quite radial to the center hole, it is
      First, use an indexable screw-slotting tool to cre-         not a big deal because you can guide the thin saw so
 ate three preliminary wide-radial cuts from the pe-              that the cut comes down exactly on center.
 rimeter to about three-quarters toward the center.                   Access holes (“windows”) on the side of a col-
 These wide slots will provide easy access for the saw            let greatly enhance its functionality, improving the
 in the final splitting and will help ensure accuracy.            visibility of the work, and also allow the workpiece
      Next, the center hole is drilled. When drilling             to be manipulated with tweezers, if needed. Such ac-
 the center hole in a new collet, a microcenter drill             cess holes on the collet’s sides can be made with a
 will create a small pilot depression to get a precise            large or small mill. This step can be taken before or
 center for the final drill. Choose the final drill to            after splitting the collet.
 perfectly match your desired diameter so the hole is
 finished in a single operation. A microscope of ap-              Customizing Your New Collets
 proximately 30X is highly recommended to ensure                  and Chucks
 there is no discernable wobble. Once the center hole             The following examples of various fixtures are not
 is accurately drilled, the collet can be removed from            intended to be copied or replicated (hence, no specific
 the lathe for the final splitting.                               diagrams, blueprints, or measurements are provided).
      Finish splitting the collet by holding it to a high-        Rather, they are intended to spark your imagination,
 speed, very fine-toothed and thin circular saw mount-            encourage you to design and produce your own fix-
 ed in the lathe headstock. Having already cut much of            tures, and illustrate the almost limitless possibilities
 the material away with the wide slots in the first stage,        of specialized fixtures.
 the remaining material from the bottom of the wide

 Fixture No. 1: Holding inside diameters, such                    be turned on the lathe and then transferred on the
 as a pulley or gear blank                                        fixture for the next procedure.
 This is designed to hold items with a small inside                   A similar version with a working screw on the
 diameter, such as the pulley that is shown in the il-            other end can be made to hold crown blanks. This
 lustration. The split is expanded when the tapered               fixture can be designed to go inside the recess on
 center is threaded into the collet. Another very use-            pocket watch and some wristwatch crowns, simpli-
 ful application is holding clock gear blanks while               fying the knurling on an onion crown.
 cutting teeth or milling out the spokes. The post can                This design also lends itself readily to many other
 be mounted in a collet or chuck and the blank can                useful applications in micro sizes.

      Fig. 1. Pulley attached to the fixture.                         Fig. 2. Pulley removed from the fixture.

10                                                                                                               January 2021
Fixture No. 2: Holding regular round items
  This fixture is basically a bezel chuck and can be used     solid item, such as the back cover of a pocket watch
  to hold anything of a regular round and flat pattern        or wristwatch, providing it has a lip.
  such as a wristwatch case. The size is limited by the           This fixture is designed to be mounted in a col-
  stock diameter. It is also possible to put multiple steps   let by the rear third portion to allow the expansion
  on one chuck to optimize its flexibility. The screw         caused by a taper on the screwhead that engages the
  can be put on the other end to allow for holding a          taper inside the fixture.

      Fig. 3. Wristwatch case attached to the                         Fig. 4. Wristwatch case removed
      fixture.                                                        from the fixture.

  Fixture No. 3: Holding large crowns
  This fixture consists of a deep cup that will accept        watch crown, allowing the inside of the crown to be
  a large-diameter item such as a spherical pocket            machined.

      Fig. 5. A crown held in the fixture.                         Fig. 6. The crown removed to show the
                                                                   inside of the fixture cup.

Horological Times                                                                                                11
Technical Discussion: Useful Watch Repair Fixtures, Part 1

 Fixture No. 4: Holding flat, round items
 This outside-diameter chuck is designed to hold a                Then, by numbering the compression screws on the
 flat disk such as the quarter shown in the photo. This           periphery, the finished piece can be replaced by the
 chuck style is very useful for repetitive work. The              next one by loosening only one screw to release the
 piece being worked upon can be trued very carefully.             part while retaining the established center.

      Fig. 7. The fixture holding a quarter.                           Fig. 8. The fixture without the quarter and
                                                                       removed from the headstock to show the
                                                                       three compression arms.

 Fixture No. 5: Holding irregular parts by
 using an off-center or elongated hole
 This collet features an off-center or elongated hole             like this as a simple solution. The elongated portion
 to accommodate an irregular protrusion such as the               should not overlap with the center hole too much, or
 impulse pin on a pin lever balance. There are so many            the collet will not center the work properly.
 other similar situations that call for a special collet

         Fig. 9. Holding a watch balance with the                        Fig. 10. Watch balance removed to
         impulse pin in the elongated/off-center                         show the elongated/off-center hole.
         hole.

12                                                                                                             January 2021
Fixture No. 6: Installing or removing
  chronograph pushers
  This is a regular brass collet with a conical nose.            The brass is soft enough to grab onto the fluted edge
  There are various uses for it, but the most common             without damage.
  one is installing and removing chronograph pushers.

      Fig. 11. Holding a chronograph pusher.                          Fig. 12. The chronograph pusher removed to
                                                                      show conical nose.

  Acknowledgments
  The authors want to thank John Creamer for the
  fixture photographs.

  Andrew Dervan is an antique-clock collector who runs a clock appraisal business. He has published many articles in NAWCC’s
  Watch & Clock Bulletin, American Clock and Watch Museum Electronic Timepiece Journal, and Clocks Magazine.
  Mahlon Shetler, an Amish watchmaker, has been repairing watches for over 25 years, developing micromachining skills.
  He co-publishes a monthly newsletter Time Keepers Bulletin.

Horological Times                                                                                                          13
Antique Watch Restoration
                                                                                                By Archie Perkins
                                                                                                   CMW, FAWI, FNAWCC, FBHI

                                                                                     a must-have collection!
                                                                          These three volumes contain valuable information detailing
                                                                         comprehensive techniques for manufacturing components and
                                                                             restoring antique wristwatches and pocket watches.
                                                                    “Antique Watch Restoration, Volumes I & II are comprehensive books that
                                                                    contain plenty of hard-to-find, useful, practical information. These are
                                                                    the first books I consult when searching for a solution to part-making in
                                                                    restoration.”

       The Smithsonian Magazine ranked Columbia, PA,                Henrik Korpela
        among the top 20 best small towns to visit in the United    Korpela & Hofs Watchmaking Competence Centre
          States, in part, because of its strength in history.      Le Locle, Switzerland
                                                                                                                                                                                                   www.awci.com/online-store
     The National Watch &                                          Don’t have these books? Purchase them today at www.awci.com/online-store/.
     Clock Museum provides
     a wealth of information
     about the art and science
                                                                        $99.99                              $99.99                                                                          $84.99
                                                                      Plus Shipping and Handling          Plus Shipping and Handling                                                      Plus Shipping and Handling
     of timekeeping. When
     you can’t visit the museum,
                                   Visit NAWCC.ORG
                                                                                                                                                              Antique WAtch RestoRAtion

     check out the webinars and    and click EVENTS
     podcasts about horology        to view upcoming                                                        Archie B. Perkins

     for everyone who loves
                                                                                                            Mr. Perkins, the author of Antique

                                    events and classes.
                                                                                                            Watch Restoration, Volume 1, has more
                                                                                                            than 70 years of experience in the
                                                                                                            watchmaking and clockmaking trade,
                                                                                                            starting at age fifteen. Archie has spent
                                                                                                            more than 40 years, part time and full
                                                                                                            time, making wheels and pinions and
                                                                                                            other parts for antique watches and

     watches, clocks, and all
                                                                                                            clocks, and has restored antique and
                                                                                                            complicated watches.
                                                                                                            A watchmaking and clockmaking
                                                                                                            instructor for Denver Public Schools
                                                                                                            for 32 years, Archie was elected
                                                                                                            “Vocational Educator of the Year” by
                                                                                                            the teachers’ union in 1981. He also

     things to do with keeping
                                                                                                            conducted basic and advanced lathe

                                                                                                                                                              III                            Archie B. Perkins
                                                                                                            courses for the American Watchmak-
                                                                                                            ers-Clockmakers Institute (AWCI).
                                                                                                            Additionally, he served on the AWCI
                                                                                                            Board of Directors from 1985 to 1988.

                                       Contact the Education
                                                                                                            He has achieved the distinguished titles
                                                                                                            of Certified Master Watchmaker and
                                                                                                                                                                                             CMW, FAWI, FNAWCC, FBHI
                                                                                                                                                              Archie B. Perkins

                                                                                                            Fellow of the American Watchmak-

     time. Listen on Spotify,
                                                                                                            ers-Clockmakers Institute, Fellow of
                                                                                                            the National Association of Watch and
                                                                                                            Clock Collectors, and Fellow of the
                                                                                                            British Horological Institute.

                                            Department
                                                                                                            For 25 years, Archie wrote the monthly
                                                                                                            column, “Technically Watches,” for
                                                                                                            AWCI’s Horological Times. Many of his
                                                                                                            articles were also published in the Brit-

     iTunes, and Sound Cloud.                                                                                                                                                                      Vol. III
                                                                                                            ish Horological Journal, Watch and Clock
                                                                                                            Review, and the National Association of

                                     at 717.684.8261, ext. 237                                                                                          FPO
                                                                                                            Watch and Clock Collectors Bulletin.
                                                                                                            Archie was co-author of The Watch-
                                                                                                            maker’s Staking Tool, published by K
                                                                                                            and D Staking Tool Co., 1987. He also
                                                                                                            wrote The Modern Watchmakers Lathe
                                                                                                            and How to Use It, published by AWCI
                                                                                                            in 2003.

                                     or education@nawcc.org.

14                                                                                                                                                                                                  January 2021
Three Methods for Straightening Bent Watch Train Wheel Pivots

                                                                                                  Fig. 1
  1. Chuck the bent pivot lightly in a good, true
  wire chuck, as shown, with the bend lined up
  with the outside edge of the hole in the chuck.
  Then, use your fingers to manipulate the
  wheel to straighten the pivot. Use a very light
  touch when moving the pinion during this
  straightening process. The lathe should not
  be turning during the straightening process,
  but it can be turned slowly to check the truth
  of the pinion. When the pinion runs true, the
  pivot should be straight.

  2. Chuck the pinion true in a wire chuck as         alcohol flame before using it on the bent pivot.
  shown. Drill a hole slightly larger than the bent   This will remove the chill from the pivot to
  pivot into the end of a thin brass rod and use      help prevent it from breaking when it is being
  it over the pivot to straighten it. Sometimes       straightened. Use a very light touch on the rod
  a piece of bushing wire with a small enough         to prevent overdoing the operation.
  hole can be used for this purpose. Chuck
                                                                                                  Fig. 2
  the pinion true and turn the lathe by hand
  until the end of the bent pivot points upward
  as shown in Figure 2. Place the drilled rod
  onto the pivot where the bend starts. Using
  your fingers, manipulate the end of the rod
  downward to straighten the pivot. Turn the
  lathe slowly while you check the pivot for
  truth. This process may need to be repeated
  to finally make the pivot run true. Note: It
  is advisable to warm the brass rod over an

Horological Times                                                                                          15
Column: Watchmaker’s Tip: Three Methods for Straightening Bent Watch Train Wheel Pivots

 3. This method employs a pair of brass or                                                                 Fig. 3
 nickel silver tweezers to straighten the pivot.
 Again, it is a good idea to warm the tweezers
 also before using them to straighten a pivot.
 You can use an old pair of tweezers that has
 become stubby from years of use. Prepare the
 jaws by filing them square at their ends. Then,
 file the insides of the jaws flat so they come
 together flat and parallel as shown in Figure 3.
 To use the tweezers to straighten a pivot, first
 chuck up the pinion true in the lathe. Turn the
 lathe by hand until the bent pivot points up-
 ward as shown. Now, warm the tweezers and
 apply them to the pivot as shown. The tweezer
 jaws close on the pivot and, at the same time,
 the pivot is pinched downward to straighten
 the pivot. The lathe can then be turned slowly
 to check the pivot for trueness.

 This tip is adapted from Antique Watch Restoration, Vol. I , by Archie Perkins, chapter 17, The Maintenance
 of Watch Train Wheel Pivots, page 275.

16                                                                                                   January 2021
From the Workshop
                                                                                   By Jack Kurdzionak, CW21, FAWCI

  Measure Twice
  Most of us have heard the carpenter’s timeless expres-     with such watches, it is possible to formulate an
  sion… “Measure twice, cut once.” In a literal sense,       estimate that in most cases will be quite accurate.
  the carpenter who confirms the measurement is less         Infrequent estimating errors, either too high or too
  apt to make a costly error by cutting a board too          low, generally balance out so that on average, this
  short and rendering it useless for the project at hand.    process works well.
  Figuratively speaking, it admonishes the carpenter             Watches that show evidence of requiring more
  to plan and prepare in a careful, thorough manner          than routine service warrant a more detailed exam-
  before taking action. When one begins without ade-         ination. For example, any rust in the movement or
  quate preparation, a project can quickly change from       water damage to the hands or dial can indicate prob-
  being routine to being far more complicated than it        lems, many of which are hidden until the watch is
  would have been with diligent planning at the begin-       partially or fully disassembled. Obvious mismatched
  ning. Although we understand the concept, do we            parts are a warning sign that the watch may be a so-
  always follow the sound advice to plan well and to         called “Frankenwatch” (https://www.gearpatrol.com
  think before we act?                                       /watches/a426602/what-is-a-frankenwatch/) that was
      For a watchmaker, the planning needs to begin          constructed with parts from various sources, which
  when the watch is first examined. Any preexisting          may or may not work well together. Watches with
  conditions in the watch’s appearance or functioning        parts such as plates and bridges that have been ob-
  need to be noted during the take-in examination,           viously modified with a file also require a detailed
  versus later while completing the repair. In the past,     inspection. Depending on the extent of the damage
  we may have drawn an image of the watch and created        or wear, these watch movements are examined more
  a written document outlining the defects plus any          rigorously so that a detailed estimate, with a basic la-
  observed mechanical flaws. Thanks to technology,           bor charge plus an itemized list of needed spare parts,
  that procedure has been supplanted by taking photos        can be formulated. Because these more detailed es-
  of the watch and noting any mechanical flaws.              timates take additional time and effort to organize,
      At this point in the estimating process, it is time    an estimating fee is certainly reasonable and often
  to decide about a given repair by asking the following     expected by the client.
  question, “Am I qualified to service this watch?” If the       This is not the time to guess whether a spare part
  answer is “No,” then the watchmaker should decline the     will be available or to guess at the cost of the spare
  repair. There are just some watches that a watchmaker      part. I have yet to discover any method for gauging the
  should not repair for various reasons, including lack      availability and cost of spare parts, other than relying
  of skill, lack of proper equipment, or the inability to    on recent experience with the same part or conducting
  obtain proper spare parts. If the answer is “Yes,” then    some research. The Internet is a great resource for
  the watchmaker must decide if the repair is routine        finding spare parts and their costs. Another resource
  enough to generate a highly accurate estimate, based       is your computer database. Almost every part I have
  on the initial examination and confirmation that there     purchased for the past 15 years is in the database
  are no obvious problems in need of further scrutiny.       along with the cost and sourcing data. Of course, if
  Depending on a watchmaker’s previous experience            the part was last purchased more than a couple of

Horological Times                                                                                                   17
Column: From the Workshop

 years ago, the part may no longer be available at the           Such events can be prevented by regularly re-
 former price or not available at any price. In 2008,       freshing the tweezers’ tips. Refreshing bronze twee-
 there was a barrel and mainspring for a well-known         zer tips is very easy and can make them as functional
 Swiss brand that sold for $25. Today, that same barrel     as a new pair. Because bronze can be somewhat de-
 and mainspring are still available from the brand, but     formed without fracturing, bent tips can be made
 the price is now $200. Guessing what to charge for         parallel by gently reforming the tips. Oftentimes,
 labor or parts is a serious error and most often not       pressing the tip against a steel bench block is all it
 in the watchmaker’s favor. Instead of measuring once       takes to return the tip to be parallel with its mate.
 before cutting or not bothering to measure at all, it is   The inner surfaces of the tips can be made flat with
 best to measure twice or even thrice to get it right the   a slight graining by drawing the inner surface of each
 first time.                                                tip lengthwise while gently squeezing the tweezer
                                                            tips together on a sheet of #240 emery cloth (see the
 Epilogue                                                   photo below). One tweezer tip is refreshed by the
 While writing this article, I was speaking with a lo-      abrasive side of the cloth, while pressing the other tip
 cal carpenter who was updating the old windows in a        on the smooth back side of the cloth keeps the tips
 home with high-quality, custom-made replacements.          parallel during the procedure. After a few strokes on
 During the installation he realized that one window        one tip, the tweezers are turned over to refresh the
 was three inches too wide. He rechecked his original       other surface.
 order with the window company and the window was                Do not forget the sharp point where the tweezer
 made exactly to his specifications. What went wrong?       tips meet. Both tips need to be the same length. Use
 He made a measuring error and did not measure twice        a light stroke or two with an Arkansas stone to make
 before placing his order. The window company cheer-        the ends of both tips touch each other. Finally, the
 fully made another new window with the correct mea-        outer surfaces of both tips can be restored to their
 surements, at the carpenter’s expense. He now owns a       original profile by tapering the outer surfaces of the
 new window he may never use.                               tweezers with the same #240 emery cloth. Use #320
                                                            emery cloth for a smooth, final exterior finish. I can
 Advice for Refreshing Tweezer Tips                         assure you that frequently refreshing the tweezer tips
 Watchmaker’s tweezers gradually show signs of wear         takes far less time than trying to find a cap jewel that
 and tear from constant use. When I try to pick up          was sent flying by a worn pair of tweezers.
 a very thin cap jewel, that wear be-
 comes apparent. After a few unsuc-
 cessful attempts I am reminded it
 is time to refresh the tweezers’ tips.
 By then those tips usually have their
 inner surfaces worn smooth with
 rounded edges. Sometimes the tips
 are no longer parallel, which means
 the tips show daylight between them
 when pressed together. Smooth,
 rounded tweezer tips that are also no
 longer parallel will not hold a jewel,
 screw, or any other watch part secure-
 ly. As the tips wear, the tendency is to
 squeeze a bit harder to hold the part.
 This is remarkably counterproductive,
 as the extra pressure can send the part
 flying.
                                          Refreshing tweezers by using an emery cloth.

18                                                                                                        January 2021
Finally, a New Year with Good News                            diseases are only a bad memory. Perhaps we believed
  As I write this today, the news reports are featuring         that such diseases could not happen again in our
  the most welcome news I have heard this year regard-          modern society and that contagions only struck in
  ing COVID-19. Three pharmaceutical companies,                 another era or another place. Well, we are learning
  two American and one British, announced that they             our lesson in terms of how vulnerable humanity re-
  have developed vaccines that are 90%-95% effective            ally was then, and still is. As was written over 2,000
  at preventing COVID-19. We have been patiently                years ago, “What has been will be again, and what
  waiting since last March for hopeful news in our              has been done will be done again; there is nothing
  fight against this viral scourge, which has killed and        new under the sun.” (Ecclesiastes 1:9)
  disabled hundreds of thousands of people. If these                But, thankfully, we can now look ahead for a
  vaccines prove to be effective, we can realistically          better 2021. I wish all of you a Happy and Healthy
  look forward to gradually resuming our customary              New Year.
  way of life, such as visiting with family and friends,
  going to the theater, enjoying a restaurant meal, and         Time to Plan For 2021
  participating in other activities that have been on           There is no guarantee that 2021 will mark the end
  hold for so long.                                             of the pandemic, but we can certainly make some
      This country, as well as many others, has en-             plans for the future. Let’s hope that by July 1, it will
  dured suffering and painful sacrifices during this            again be reasonably safe to travel, attend classes, go
  past year. I believe most, if not all of us, have be-         out to restaurants, and enjoy all those activities we
  come complacent about the dangers of a pandemic,              cherish. Why wait until the pandemic has ended to
  and have forgotten that a similar pandemic ravaged            begin planning for the future? Let’s remember that
  our grandparents and great-grandparents in 1918. In           the activity restrictions are temporary and provide an
  light of our advancements in science and medicine, it         opportunity to make plans for the time when we are
  seems we have grown confident that such contagious            able to be active and to be together again.

  Jack Kurdzionak, watchmaker and watch material specialist, owned a Boston-area watch sales and service shop for 40 years.
  He has a BS (Northeastern University, 1967) and has studied at ETA, WOSTEP, BHI, SGUS, and AWCI, and works for Eckcells
  Watch Materials.

Horological Times                                                                                                         19
Have you recently renovated your retail store?
                 If your retail store has undergone a transition over the
                 past couple of years, making your watch repair workshop
                 attractively visible from the retail sales floor, we want to hear
                 from you!

                 Send us a couple photos and let us know approximately
                 how much you invested in the renovations and what the
                 impact has been on sales and service revenue.

                                               Email Editor@awci.com.

      would you
      like to read
      what makes
      brits tick?
      The Horological Journal – published monthly
      without fail since 1858 – gives you exclusive
      technical articles and practical updates on clock
      and watch making.

      You’ll find news on the latest issue and
      how to get it at www.bhi.co.uk

20                                                                                   January 2021
Stay on the Cutting Edge      Take Advantage of these AWCI Benefits

Education &
Certification
AWCI’s top-notch education will
help get you where you want to be in
your career. Now you have access to all the
excellent webinars presented by Tom Schomaker,
Jason Champion, Bernhard Stoeber, Ken De Lucca,
David LaBounty, and others! AWCI’s dedication to
education continues and will grow in the future. Invest
in yourself and your career! Certification is available for   Tech Guides
watchmakers and clockmakers. For more information,            15,000 tech guides at
contact Jason Champion, CW21: Jason@awci.com;                 www.awci.com.
866-FOR-AWCI (367-2924) or 513-367-9800, ext. 303.
                                                              Find a Professional
Affiliate Chapters                                            Directory
Learn at your local guild from respected horologists          It's easy for clients to find you when
and meet other horologists in your area. Networking is        they use AWCI's directory, which gets
important for business and personal relationships!            12,000 searches per year.

Henry B. Fried Library                                        Horological Times
Borrow from 3,500 books, from Archie Perkins to               Improve your craft as you learn from the technical
Henry B. Fried. FREE to all members.                          articles. Find out the latest developments in the industry.
                                                              Keep up with the institute and its activities. Use the
Books & DVDs                                                  classifieds to find a job, hire an employee, and buy or sell
Members receive a 10% discount on books and DVDs              equipment. Use display ads to promote your products
as well as t-shirts, posters, and more!                       and services to HT’s targeted audience.
American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute
          Setting Service Standards and Educating the Horological Community

     SUNDAY        MONDAY        TUESDAY
                                           January
                                                WEDNESDAY        THURSDAY
                                                                            1
                                                                                 FRIDAY
                                                                                          2
                                                                                               SATURDAY        SUNDAY
                                                                                                                        1
                                                                                                                             MONDAY
                                                                                                                                      2
                                                                                                                                           TUESDAY
                                                                                                                                                     February
                                                                                                                                                      3
                                                                                                                                                           WEDNESDAY
                                                                                                                                                                       4
                                                                                                                                                                                20
                                                                                                                                                                            THURSDAY
                                                                                                                                                                                       5
                                                                                                                                                                                            FRIDAY
                                                                                                                                                                                                     6
                                                                                                                                                                                                          SATURDAY

3             4             5              6                7               8             9               7             8             9               10               11              12            13

                                                                                                                                                                       NM
10            11            12             13               14              15            16              14            15            16              17               18              19            20

                                           NM
17            18            19             20               21              22            23              21            22            23              24               25              26            27

                                                                                                                                                                                                     FM
24            25            26             27               28              29            30              28

                                                            FM
31

                                                May                                                                                                       June
     SUNDAY        MONDAY        TUESDAY        WEDNESDAY        THURSDAY        FRIDAY        SATURDAY        SUNDAY        MONDAY        TUESDAY         WEDNESDAY        THURSDAY        FRIDAY        SATURDAY
                                                                                          1                                           1               2                3               4             5

2             3             4              5                6               7             8               6             7             8               9                10              11            12

                                                                                                                                                                       NM
9             10            11             12               13              14            15              13            14            15              16               17              18            19

                            NM
16            17            18             19               20              21            22              20            21            22              23               24              25            26

                                                                                                                                                                       FM
23            24            25             26               27              28            29              27            28            29              30

                                           FM
30            31                                                                                          31

                                       September                                                                                                     October
     SUNDAY        MONDAY        TUESDAY        WEDNESDAY        THURSDAY        FRIDAY        SATURDAY        SUNDAY        MONDAY        TUESDAY         WEDNESDAY        THURSDAY        FRIDAY        SATURDAY
                                           1                2               3             4                                                                                            1             2

5             6             7              8                9               10            11              3             4             5               6                7               8             9

                            NM                                                                                                                        NM
12            13            14             15               16              17            18              10            11            12              13               14              15            16

19            20            21             22               23              24            25              17            18            19              20               21              22            23

              FM                                                                                                                                      FM
26            27            28             29               30                                            24            25            26              27               28              29            30

                                                                                                          31
21    SUNDAY
               1
                    MONDAY
                              2
                                   TUESDAY
                                              March
                                              3
                                                   WEDNESDAY
                                                               4
                                                                    THURSDAY
                                                                               5
                                                                                    FRIDAY
                                                                                             6
                                                                                                  SATURDAY                 SUNDAY        MONDAY         TUESDAY
                                                                                                                                                                       April
                                                                                                                                                                        WEDNESDAY
                                                                                                                                                                                    1
                                                                                                                                                                                         THURSDAY
                                                                                                                                                                                                    2
                                                                                                                                                                                                         FRIDAY
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  NM=New Moon
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  FM=Full Moon

                                                                                                                                                                                                                     3
                                                                                                                                                                                                                          SATURDAY

 7             8              9               10               11              12            13                      4              5              6               7                8               9                10

                                                                                             NM
 14            15             16              17               18              19            20                      11             12             13              14               15              16               17

                                                                                                                                    NM
 21            22             23              24               25              26            27                       18            19             20              21               22              23               24

 28            29             30              31                                                                     25             26             27              28               29              30

 FM                                                                                                                                                FM
                                                                                                                     31

                                                   July                                                                                                            August
      SUNDAY        MONDAY         TUESDAY         WEDNESDAY        THURSDAY        FRIDAY        SATURDAY                 SUNDAY        MONDAY         TUESDAY         WEDNESDAY        THURSDAY        FRIDAY           SATURDAY
                                                               1               2             3                       1              2              3               4                5               6                7

 4             5              6               7                8               9             10                      8              9              10              11               12              13               14

                                                                                             NM                      NM
 11            12             13              14               15              16            17                      15             16             17              18               19              20               21

 18            19             20              21               22              23            24                       22            23             24              25               26              27               28

                                                                                             FM                      FM
 25            26             27              28               29              30            31                      29             30             31

                                             November                                                                                                             December
      SUNDAY        MONDAY         TUESDAY         WEDNESDAY        THURSDAY        FRIDAY        SATURDAY                 SUNDAY        MONDAY         TUESDAY         WEDNESDAY        THURSDAY        FRIDAY           SATURDAY
               1              2               3                4               5             6                                                                     1                2               3                4

                                                               NM                                                                                                                                                    NM
 7             8              9               10               11              12            13                      5              6              7               8                9               10               11

 14            15             16              17               18              19            20                      12             13             14              15               16              17               18

                                                                               FM
 21            22             23              24               25              26            27                       19            20             21              22               23              24               25

                                                                                                                      FM
 28            29             30                                                                                     26             27             28              29               30              31

For details about specific courses offered at AWCI in comprehensive syllabi form, including complete tool lists, visit: www.awci.com/classes or contact the
Education Director and Watchmaking Specialist at 866-FOR-AWCI (367-2924), ext. 303. For additional calendar events visit: www.awci.com/calendar
                                                                                                                                                                                                              www.awci.com/calendar
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Industry
                             NEWS
  Antoine Simonin Wins Prize
  at Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève                                                                                          By Andrew DeKeyser, CW21

  A   ntoine Simonin rightfully won the Special Jury
         Prize of the 2020 Grand Prix d’ Horlogerie
  de Genève for his 60+ years of contributions to
  the Swiss watchmaking industry, particularly in
  the field of education.
      In 1966, Simonin co-founded WOSTEP
  (Watchmakers of Switzerland Training and
  Education Program), which became the gold stan-
  dard in training watchmakers. Under Simonin’s
  leadership, WOSTEP became internationally rec-
  ognized with schools in 17 countries and exams in
  six different languages.
      Today, Simonin continues his contributions
  to education in the international watchmaking Antoine Simonin, a Fellow of AWCI, was honored at the
  community with Editions Simonin. The pub- Grand Prix d’ Horlogerie de Genève.
  lishing company offers more than 8,000 books, Photo courtesy of Editions Simonin
  including many that are rare and out-of-print.
  The collection spans traditional watchmaking tech- Sources
                                                         https://quillandpad.com/2020/11/17/on-the-importance-of-antoine-simonin-and-his-special-jury
  niques, histories of the industry and watchmaking                -prize-at-the-2020-grand-prix-dhorlogerie-de-geneve-by-dr-rebecca-struthers/
  companies, as well as other horological topics.        https://tinyurl.com/y4vdmse8

  Cousins Makes Progress with Right to Repair Law
                                                                                                                               By Andrew DeKeyser, CW21

 C     ousins Material House, a leading wholesaler of
       equipment and components for the watch service
  and repair industry located in the UK, has been bat-
                                                                              available to conduct those repairs, adding to the
                                                                              waste problem. A survey conducted by the commit-
                                                                              tee found that the second (23%) and third (20%)
  tling Swatch Group in court for about four years over                       greatest factors preventing repair are lack of access to
  restrictive policies related to supplying parts. The case                   spare parts and repair manuals.
  is expected to have a final decision next year.                                  In conclusion, the EAC recommends that the
        The House of Commons Environmental Audit                              government enshrine the right to repair in law,” en-
  Committee (EAC), part of the UK’s legislative body,                         forcing access to repair manuals, access to affordable
  has released a report highlighting consumer elec-                           spare parts, and the ability to repair products without
  tronics industry waste because its products are un-                         the use of special physical or software tools to sur-
  repairable. This report could have an impact on the                         mount barriers meant to prevent third-party repair.
  watch industry because the EAC found when some
  products were designed to be repaired, certain man-                         Source
  ufacturers failed to make parts and service manuals                         https://www.watchpro.com/right-to-repair-law-could-stop-restrictive-distribution-of-watch-parts/

Horological Times                                                                                                                                                                25
Industry News

 H2i Wins EPHJ Grand Prize
                                                                                                            By Andrew DeKeyser, CW21

 T    he EPHJ Trade Show takes place annually in
      Geneva to showcase microtechnology compa-
 nies in the jewelry making, medical technology, and
                                                          product significantly surpassed the limits of acous-
                                                          tic measuring accuracy by testing mechanical move-
                                                          ments in 32,400 watch positions in space. The pre-
 watchmaking industries. Even though the event was        vious threshold was six positions.
 held virtually this year, the Awards Jury received            H2i (Horology Instrumentation Innovation),
 many entries for the Grand Prix des Exposants.           located in Cortaillod, Switzerland, was formed in
 Fischer Connectors, Norimat, Meyrat, Tornos, and         June 2014. In acknowledging this award, H2i co-
 H2i were selected as the companies with the top five     directors Jean-Charles Rousset and Emmanuel Baudet
 innovations.                                             gave credit to the Acrotec Group’s R&D team for
      The coveted award went to H2i’s Accuracy            their efforts in advancing the technology of acoustic
 Motion product, recognized for its revolutionary         measurement for watches.
 advances in testing and adjusting chronometric pre-
 cision. Utilizing direct adjustment with an “inertial    Sources
 and strain wave gearing unit,” the Accuracy Motion       https://roboticsandautomationnews.com/2020/11/23/high-precision-watchmaking-technology
                                                                  -company-h2i-wins-grand-prize-in-ephj-awards/38402/
                                                          https://h2i.ch/en/

 Event Updates: JCK Tucson and More
                                                                                                             By Andrew DeKeyser, CW21

 T    he Annual JCK Tucson Gem Show and the
      Tucson Gem Week community shows, original-
 ly scheduled for February 3-6, 2021, have been can-
                                                          Gemologist Association announced that its annual
                                                          conference will take place online in February 2021
                                                          and the Association will forego the presentation of
 celled due to the COVID-19 pandemic. According           its Antonio C. Bonanno Award until 2022.
 to JCK Group Vice President Sarin Bachmann, “JCK              Additional event updates include: the 24 Karat
 will continue to showcase the passion and creativity     Club of the City of New York has cancelled its annu-
 of our industry’s most exceptional designers, crafts-    al banquet; the luncheons for the Jeweler’s Security
 people, and brands with its JCK and Luxury shows         Alliance and the Jewelers Vigilance Committee have
 in Las Vegas in June and online at JCKonline.com.”       been moved online; and the Jewelers of America’s
      Originally scheduled alongside the JCK Show,        Gem Awards have been rescheduled for July 2021.
 the Gem & Jewelry Exchange also decided to cancel
 their show, citing occupancy rules that would make       Author’s note: This news is subject to change quickly due to
                                                          various municipalities responding to the COVID-19 pandemic.
 the event impossible to facilitate. The Exchange plans   Remember to check event status with organizers before
 to hold the next in-person show in February 2022.        travelling.
      The American Gem Trade Association can-             Source
 celled GemFair for 2021 and rescheduled the event        https://www.jckonline.com/editorial-article/gem-fair-cancelled-watches-virtual/
 for early February 2022. In addition, the Accredited

26                                                                                                                                          January 2021
Rebag to Sell Luxury Watches
                                                                                                                By Andrew DeKeyser, CW21

  R    ebag, a retailer of pre-owned designer handbags,
       has decided to expand their business to include
  used watches and jewelry in their physical and online
                                                               learn from the experts about buying and selling lux-
                                                               ury items while accessing resale reports, company
                                                               pedigrees, and analytical articles on specific styles and
  stores. Rebag is only six years old but has locations        models.
  in New York City, Miami, and Arcadia, California.                The Boston Consulting Group forecasts an aver-
  The business buys high-end handbags for resale and           age annual growth of 8% for secondhand “hard lux-
  is now accepting items from Patek Philippe, Rolex,           ury” items, including watches, in the coming years.
  Tiffany & Co., and Cartier, among others.		                  As with the luxury handbag market, Rebag will try
       Unlike other popular retail markets such as             to capitalize on the high price points, collector-level
  RealReal, Rebag buys items directly from the public          demand, and rarity of the secondhand luxury watch
  versus operating on consignment. When selling items          market.
  online, customers use the company’s Clair by Rebag
  Program, which prices items based on condition and           Source
                                                               https://www.jckonline.com/editorial-article/rebag-adds-watches-jewelry/
  demand. Sellers in physical stores get an offer in as lit-   https://rebag.com/thevault/
  tle as an hour and payment within five business days.
  Rebag’s webpage offers an educational portal, known
  as the “Vault”, where customers and collectors can

  Hodinkee Raises $40 Million and Hires New CEO
                                                                                                                By Andrew DeKeyser, CW21

  H     odinkee has raised $40 million in a Series B fund-
        ing round to further accelerate its expansion as a
  luxury watch content purveyor and authorized retailer
                                                               lowing Clymer to focus on content creation for the
                                                               company’s community. Bateman joins Hodinkee after
                                                               years of patronage and teases, “…many exciting an-
  of several major brands, such as TAG Heuer, Breitling,       nouncements” in his inaugural post on the website.
  and Tudor. Forbes estimates the value of the company              The company has also hired Nick Marino as the
  to be around $100 million. Various venture groups            new head of editorial. Marino has 18 years of expe-
  participated, including TCG, Chernin Group, LVMH             rience in the publication business including stints at
  Luxury Ventures, True Ventures, Future Shape, and            GQ, Apple, and Levi’s.
  Google Ventures as well as Grammy Award Winner
                                                               Sources
  John Mayer and football’s Tom Brady.                         https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/weve-hired-a-great-new-ceo-heres-why-and-whats
       Founder Ben Clymer announced on December                    -next?mc_cid=87a963783d&mc_eid=458d3d721b
  2 that Toby Bateman will join Hodinkee as CEO, al-           https://www.watchpro.com/hodinkee-valued-at-100-million-following-latest-funding-round/

  Andrew DeKeyser is the owner of HCP Watchmaking in Sisters, Oregon. He graduated from the Lititz Watch Technicum
  with WOSTEP certification.

Horological Times                                                                                                                                        27
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