The UK's leading print trade title for the Beauty, Nails, Tanning & Spa industries August 2018
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8 Contents Dear Readers According to a recent report conducted by the Office for National Statistics, 90% of UK news Contents Special Reports Time For Celebration 34 Regulars Business News . . . . . . 19 households now have internet access, with the data also revealing that 73% of adults turn to We head to iiaa’s Salon of the Year Awards to honour the brand’s Spa News . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 their mobile phone or smartphone for internet top stockists and skin care professionals. use ‘on the go’ – more than double the 2011 rate of 36%. A Need For Change 45 Beauty Products. . . . . . 39 Nail News . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 Whether we need to find travel directions, Lisa Barden tells us more about the UKSA and the importance of check emails or shop to our heart’s content, National Spa Week for our industry. Connecting With Gen Z 66 Retailing: Foot Care. . . 74 most of the population is now in the possession of a device that can retrieve all of Education. . . . . . . . . . . . . 83 this material at lightning speed. Add to this the Candice Gardner discusses the importance of establishing lasting rise of social media over the past decade, and relationships with younger clients. Brand Focus: Guinot 68 you’ll no doubt find that salon clients of today Recruitment are equipped with more knowledge on the Advertising . . . . . . . . . . . 84 and Classified latest industry trends than their predecessors. We chart the history of Guinot and uncover the secrets behind the brand’s continued longevity. In Profile: iiaa . . . . . . . 142 Yet, despite the online world becoming an integral tool within our professional and Getting To Know You 76 personal lives, its landscape can sometimes Marie-Louise Coster explains how you can provide a thorough prove a minefield of contradictory information. client consultation. As a therapist, you hold the prime position to take back the reins and become your clients’ In Profile 86 go-to expert on all things beauty, skin and Matt Taylor, Brand & Education Manager for Eve Taylor London, aesthetics. chats to us about the path he took to achieve professional success. In her article this month, Marie-Louise Coster discusses why providing a thorough consultation is the key to building a lasting client/therapist relationship (page 76). During this process, you can truly get to know your client and use your expertise to diagnose the correct treatment plan and products. Plus, you can help establish realistic outcomes, as it’s Features becoming increasingly common for clients’ end goals to be distorted by the Photoshop and heavily filtered images they’re bombarded with online. One of the largest digital user groups are centennials, also known as Generation Z, and Dermalogica’s Candice Gardner takes a closer look at how connecting with this demographic can help future-proof your business (page 66). 48 56 59 As keen experimenters of skin care and make- up and with high average spends on these products, Candice explores how professionals are equipped with a wealth of knowledge to help Gen Z understand their skin better and safely navigate the often differing advice found on the web. Providing your clients with realistic expectations of their treatment from start to finish is essential, so make sure you connect with them on a more personal level as well as online to help them achieve their desired results. Best Wishes, As Easy As Raising An Alternative A, B, C The Bar Route Get the lowdown on We visit Lash Perfect’s Discover the latest vitamins and how you can Beauty Bar in London to advanced non-surgical incorporate them into your find out more about their treatments that you can skin care services. niche treatment offering. implement in-salon. GN August 2018
Contents 9 Salon System - 20 CACI International - 20 iiaa - 34 Bulgari Spa - 30 Contributors... 64 71 78 Lisa Barden is Marie-Louise Vice Chair of Coster is a salon the UK Spa owner and beauty Association, trainer, with 20 as well as the years’ industry founder of experience. Barden Spa Ltd. A Prescriptive Work Style Approach Of Art Matters Candice Gardner We check out 3D-lipo’s flagship Brush up on the latest Uncover the must-have is Education clinic in Leamington Spa to learn techniques and trends design trends set to impact Curriculum Manager in the UK more about their passion for from the world of nail art. salon interiors this season. and Ireland for results-driven treatments. Dermalogica. GN August 2018
The UK’s leading print trade title for Beauty, Nails, Tanning & Spa Guild News has an ABC audited total average net circulation per issue of 18,051 Microblading Eyebrows Audit period: 1/7/16 - 30/6/17 Digital and Manual Guild Press Ltd, Macmillan Building, Parcel Terrace, Derby DE1 1LY methods www.BeautyServe.com Publisher / Managing Director Editor Gary Hackett Samantha Lloyd Our bespoke courses in Manual and Digital 01332 227684 01332 227687 Microblading will teach you how to create lifelike gary@BeautyServe.net sam@BeautyServe.net hair-strokes using our superfine needles, which are exclusive to Smudge-free. Each stroke is placed in Operations / Director Features Writer Emma Hackett Emily Hill the skin with one pass only and the results appear 01332 227686 01332 227695 natural with incredible realism. emma@BeautyServe.net EHill@BeautyServe.net One-to-one specialised training for beginners and bespoke training for advanced technicians to suit Sales Manager Art Room your requirements. All training is carried out by Nicky Burgess David Paton one of the industry’s highly respected trainers, 01332 613462 / 07487 826855 Matthew Milner nicky.burgess@BeautyServe.net 01332 227681 who is also consultant to HABIA, for the artroom@BeautyServe.net Occupational Standards for Micropigmentation. International Accounts Manager Please contact us for further details. Shaun Peaty Subscriptions / General 07377 796291 Enquiries shaun@BeautyServe.net Pat Bull 01332 227680 Advertising & Exhibition Sales pat@BeautyServe.net Ted Kemplen 01332 613460 Luke Paulson EKemplen@BeautyServe.net 01332 613463 luke@BeautyServe.net Kat West 01332 227686 Fiona Weston katharine@BeautyServe.net 01332 227692 fiona@BeautyServe.net BEFORE Marketing Rachel Atherton Accounts AFTER 01332 227683 Marlene Mans rachel@BeautyServe.net 01332 227685 accounts@BeautyServe.net Olivia Beesley 01332 226603 olivia@BeautyServe.net l @GuildNewsBeauty f /GuildNewsMag i GuildNewsMag SUBSCRIBE TODAY 01332 227690 For more details on our courses in Semi-Permanent Cosmetics and In-salon Treatments visit: www.smudge-free.co.uk or call us on 020 7272 6021 The publisher has taken all reasonable measures to ensure the accuracy of the information in Guild News and cannot accept responsibility for errors or omissions from any information given in this or previous editions of Guild News or for any consequences arising thereof. f i GN August 2018
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business Business News 19 news BeautyPro celebrates awards win BeautyPro’s Hair Therapy treatment sheet mask has been named ‘Best Shampoo, Conditioner, Hair Mask’ at the Mama & Baby Awards 2018. A recent addition to the brand’s portfolio, the nourishing and rejuvenating treatment mask is noted as an ideal product for mums and mums-to-be to indulge in and take time out for themselves, helping to condition, revitalise and repair dry, damaged hair. Now in their fifth year, the Mama & Baby Awards aim to find the ‘best of the best’ products for mothers and their babies. Reporting a record-breaking number of entries across all categories for 2018, this year’s winners also included notable names such as Neal’s Yard Remedies New Bio -Therapeutic for ‘Best Mum & Baby Skincare Brand’ and ‘Best Eco-Friendly Baby Brand’, as well as Scentered’s Sleep Well Candle for ‘Best Candle’. system set to launch Dates announced for The newest addition to Bio-Therapeutic’s system portfolio, the Bio-Penta, is set to business owners retreat launch this month. To celebrate its release, David and Dena Suzuki, President and Vice President of International beauty business expert, Liz Bio-Therapeutic, recently invited the McKeon, has announced the dates for her company’s entire corporate family to its acclaimed Business Owners Retreat for 2019. headquarters for training. The popular retreat, which has run annually Kelly Lynch, Sales Manager for Bio- since 2015, will take place from the 12th to Therapeutic EU, spent a week in Seattle 19th January at the five-star Princesa Yaiza completing her Specialist Education Resort in Lanzarote. Certification, as well as preparing for the Bio-Penta release in the UK market, which An intensive, intimate and hands-on is scheduled for August 2018. Kelly is group coaching experience, the pictured alongside David and Dena, as occasion aims to change the way well as Stacy Hanes, Education business owners operate their Development. businesses, both immediately and in the future. Combining workshops, “We are extremely excited for the launch coaching, access to Liz, business of Bio-Penta”, David told GN. “There is a networking events and meditation, significant demand for combination the motivational week-long event also equipment, and we truly believe that we includes time for guided tours and have created the ultimate five technology walking excursions. station that includes microsonic cleansing, wet/dry microdermabrasion For more information, visit exfoliation, LED technology using 470 and www.lizmckeon.com 590 nanometers for clearing and age management, as well as ultrasound and microcurrent, allowing for optimal product application.” GN August 2018
20 Business News Salon System partner with wax expert Salon System has announced their collaboration with one of the UK’s leading waxing experts, Andy Rouillard. Recently named Britain’s Top Male Waxing Specialist by Men’s Health Grooming Editor, Andy is an award-winning therapist and qualified teacher. His waxing skills have seen him travel extensively around the globe, taking part as a speaker and expert at many industry events. The new partnership has resulted in the launch of Just Wax Expert, a range of advanced waxing products which draw on Andy’s Worldwide travels for CACI team wealth of knowledge and have been created to meet the demands of busy salons and It’s been a busy few months for CACI International’s Global Key Accounts Manager, Mary Overton, therapists. who has clocked up an impressive 25,114 miles in the sky in the first quarter of 2018 alone. “We are very excited about this Earlier this year, Mary travelled to Sydney, Australia, delivering a nine-day training course in the collaboration with our brand, Just CACI Synergy S.P.E.D enhanced facial toning technology to eager beauty professionals, as well as Wax, and Andy; we want to CACI Quantum body shaping treatments. support salons and therapists with products that satisfy their needs,” In addition, Mary ventured to Tirana, Albania, for a five-day CACI Quantum training programme. comments Kathy Holroyd, She is pictured (second right) with the team from Dahlia, one of Tirana’s leading spas, which Marketing Director at Salon boasts a loyal celebrity clientele from the world of media, film and music in Albania. System. “Andy is a true talent and Meanwhile, English actress, comedian, playwright and theatre director, Kathy Burke, was spotted expert in the waxing world, so his at the CACI International stand at the recent Beauty UK Show in May. support was fundamental in Trainer, Nina Hardy, performed an anti-ageing, non-surgical facial toning treatment on the star creating a new, unique range that using the CACI Synergy system. makes hair removal easier.” First birthday for flagship clinic 3D-lipo’s flagship clinic recently marked its first birthday with a celebratory open day. The Leamington Spa location, which opened in May 2017, purely specialises in 3D-lipo non-surgical face and body treatments. Having already enjoyed a successful 12 months trading, the brand are set to use the clinic’s blueprint model for future growth plans in order to roll out further 3D-lipo clinics across the UK. On the day, the celebrations included live demonstrations and talks from Roy Cowley, Managing Director at 3D-lipo Ltd; the clinic’s resident doctor, Dr. Kam Lally, and expert nutritionist, Louise Mercieca. Guests were also able to see the brand’s latest launches, 3D-Nanosure and 3D-Trilogyice, in action. Speaking at the event, Roy commented: “At 3D-lipo, we distribute face and body contouring machines to more than 800 clinics nationwide, and we decided it was about time to get some experience of operating a client- facing business.” “It’s all very well us selling to clinics, but unless we’re facing the challenges of running a clinic ourselves, we can’t fully appreciate what they need in terms of a total support package,” Roy adds. “The past year has allowed us to experience these challenges first hand, and generate a fuller understanding of the support that we can provide to our network of clinics.” GN August 2018
22 Business News HD Brows Founder of St. Tropez unveil handy receives MBE guide Judy Naaké has been awarded an MBE in the Queen’s birthday honours listings. To ensure stylists are Originating from Beeston, Nottinghamshire, creating the ideal looks Judy built her St. Tropez beauty business into for their clients, HD a multi-million pound company within ten Brows have released a years of its launch. handy colour reference guide. Since selling St. Tropez in the mid-noughties, Judy has turned her career focus to This new booklet aims to philanthropy, working with various charitable highlight the importance causes and education centres, including of tints/brow dye within Burton and South Derbyshire College and the HD Brows treatment Nottingham Trent University, as well as and breaks down mentoring the next generation of everything colour related entrepreneurs. – from colour theory to a blending guide, plus the Speaking of her news, Judy told us: “I am effortless steps to assess thrilled to have been recognised in this way what a client is really and feel humbled to receive such an honour. I looking for. have focused my career on trying to help individuals and businesses through my own To ensure that stylists life experiences, and it is so lovely to be achieve a personally commended for this.” tailored treatment for each client, the highly pigmented HD Brow dyes Event celebrates the UK’s make-up industry are currently available in five shades to accommodate a variety of hair colours, depths The inaugural Official Make-Up Awards 2018 took place this May, welcoming over 200 guests to celebrate and tones. the achievements of the British make-up industry. Karen Betts, HD Brows Businesses and professionals from across the UK gathered at the Mercure Manchester Piccadilly Hotel, CEO, explains: “Every one where a total of 14 awards were presented on the night by host, Steve Sale. of the 11,000 amazing Chosen by the British public, winners were recognised for their talent, creativity and customer service. HD Brows stylists are Several of the awards were split into local regions to ensure that diverse establishments from across Britain already giving their clients were recognised. the most wonderful experience, with a precise This year’s honourees included Sacha Rhianne Jones (Birmingham), ‘Celebrity Make Up Artist of the Year’; and tailored design being Aarti P – Asian Bridal Make Up Artist (London), ‘Ethnic Make Up Specialist of the Year’; The Glam Bar achieved daily. However, (Newhaven), ‘Make Up Salon of the Year – South England’ and ‘Best Make Up Salon – Manchester’, The colour and the theory Glam Box (who are pictured at the event). behind it isn’t something that can be learnt overnight, and is in fact one of the biggest challenges for those who haven’t had experience with colour theory in the past. That’s why I have created a handy booklet for my stylists, which includes a handy tool to reach for when they need a little help mixing the perfect bespoke colour.” GN August 2018
24 Business News VTCT expands leadership team New ethical product Vocational Training Charitable Trust (VTCT) has expanded its senior leadership team in preparation for a new phase of growth. guide released Ashley Barnes has been promoted to the new post of Deputy CEO, while Carina Having recognised the increased demand for Fagan, the charity’s former Executive Director of Awarding, takes on Ashley’s detailed product information, HIVE® has produced previous role as Chief Academic Officer. a handy ethical product guide for distributors, salons and clients alike. Ashley joined the organisation ten years ago and will be critical in building the organisation’s profile ahead of the rollout of the Government’s T-Levels. The colour coded and easy to reference guide provides information on the core HIVE® product Taking over from Ashley as Chief Academic Officer, Carina will develop the range and informs on whether the product is organisation’s UK and international outreach and expansion, maintaining industry cruelty-free, paraben-free and vegan-friendly. standards across multinational markets. Whilst the overwhelming majority of the brand’s The changes underscore a period of ambitious growth for the awarding body, as products meet all three of these criteria, should a VTCT expands its portfolio of more than 1,900 education centres and consolidates product not, an explanation is duly provided as to its current market share of 63% within the UK hair and beauty sector. A focus on why and what particular ingredient is the cause. developing the organisation’s core team at its Head Office in Eastleigh and new This allows users to make an informed decision offices in Chiswick is also a key focus in the coming months. based upon their own individual needs and views. “Whilst our wax formulations have always been held in high regard and are cruelty-free, information on parabens or vegan suitability has not always been readily available or advertised prior to the upsurge in demand. We are delighted to say that all of our products are paraben-free and the overwhelming majority are vegan- friendly,” explains David Sneddon, Operations & Marketing Manager for HIVE® of Beauty Ltd. “The product information guide has been made available to all of our distributors and will shortly be made available to download directly from our website.” Party time for Nail Harmony! Over 250 guests gathered for a night of tropical celebration at the Gelish Gala 2018, held at the seaside venue of Princes Theatre, Clacton-on Sea, this June. Organised by Georgie and Jason Smedley, Directors at Nail Harmony UK, and their team, party-goers were treated to a night of dancing and entertainment, with performances by The X Factor’s Rai Elle and Halo Fire Artists. The gala was the highlight of a week’s intense Nail Harmony International Educator Training, with special guests including Danny Haile, CEO of Nail Harmony, Jake Daniel from Nail Alliance and brand experts, Vu Nguyen, Kristina Manners, Antony Buckley and Krasimira Petrova. The occasion also saw Nail Harmony UK announce the launch of Beauty Talk Radio, a new station that will offer listeners both music and salon specific interviews and content. Streaming 24 hours a day, seven days a week, Beauty Talk Radio is the brainchild of brothers Jason and Mark Smedley, the latter of which brings over 30 years of music and radio industry experience to the station, having previously worked for Kiss FM and MiSoul Radio. Jan Soar, Jason Smedley, Georgie Smedley, Eliza Smedley, Jazz Christodoulou and Char Smedley are pictured at the gala. GN August 2018
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spa 30 Spa News news Hertfordshire hotel set for wellness revamp A Hertfordshire hotel has announced plans for a major investment into its wellness facilities. The Sequoia Spa at The Grove will undergo a full gym refurbishment, which will see the addition of physiotherapy and nutrition consultation rooms, as well as state-of-the-art equipment and functional fitness zones. Meanwhile, new treatments will incorporate products from ESPA and Natura Bissé, including the Mindful Touch Massage, which uses virtual reality for ultimate relaxation, and the High Definition Face Lift, London spa collaborates an effective alternative to microinjections. “Our spa is a holistic wellbeing destination, and we are delighted to be with Ayurveda specialists expanding and enhancing our offering even further,” says Jamie Pagan, Spa Director. “The refurbishment means that we will have one of the most advanced hotel gyms available, and our updated A London spa has launched four new treatments in partnership treatment menu offers more choice than ever for head-to-toe with Ayurveda specialists, MAULI Rituals. rejuvenation.” The treatments will be launched exclusively at the Bulgari Spa – New Treatment Manager part of the Knightsbridge-based Bulgari Hotel London – and will incorporate MAULI’s newest product, the Tri-Mineral Tension appointed Release Dome, a natural anti-ageing tool which enables essential oils to sink even deeper into the skin. Each treatment will begin with a one-to-one consultation, ensuring that each guest enjoys a personalised treatment, and The Spa at Ramside has announced the appointment of a new will conclude with the offering of ‘mauli’ red thread, reminding Treatment Manager. guests to continue to nurture themselves beyond their treatment. Ashleigh Hurson, who has taken over the role at the County Durham spa, comes equipped with a wealth of experience in the spa and beauty industries, including the post of Business Development Adviser for OPI, which involved her working with over 250 salons across the north. She will now oversee more than 30 therapists and take care of the day-to- day running of the spa, and plans to introduce new treatments and rituals and recruit new therapists. “I’m really enjoying getting to know the spa and the team – it’s such a fantastic place,” says Ashleigh. “The Spa at Ramside is an award-winning facility, and I’m incredibly excited about developing our treatments even more to ensure that we continue to provide the best spa experiences that the region has to offer.” GN August 2018
32 Spa News Awards ceremony Botanical wellness retreat opens in Cambridge honours spa A botanical wellness retreat has opened in Cambridge following months of restoration work. Officially opened in June, Gresham House Wellness comprises eight feature bedrooms and three excellence treatment rooms, offering guests and local residents an escape from the stresses of the outside An awards ceremony has taken world. place to honour individuals and The retreat’s extensive spa menu has been crafted in partnership with ESPA to provide a range of properties for their spa excellence. all-natural skin care and beauty treatments, including facials, mindfulness massages and nail The 2018 Spa Awards, hosted by services. hotel operators, RBH, were held at “After months of work and considerable restoration, we are thrilled to unveil Gresham House Stratford Manor in June, with 22 Wellness to the world,” General Manager, Edward Adshead, tells GN. “Whether it’s a quick beauty luxury spa hotels across the treatment before a big event or a detoxifying weekend break, we can cater to all requirements, and QHotels portfolio nominated. look forward to welcoming visitors from the local community and beyond.” Awards categories on the night included Spa of the Year (Mottram Awards win for Scottish spa Hall Spa), Spa Therapist of the Year (Karolina Barrett, The Nottingham Belfry) and Best Newcomer (Jaime Macdonald Inchyra Hotel & Spa has won Resident Spa of the Year at the Brown, Norton Park). Scottish Beauty Industry Awards. Dave Heap, Director of Spa and The awards were held to commemorate outstanding beauty and health Leisure at RBH, said: “A huge customer services across Scotland who were nominated by their clients, congratulations to all of our worthy with those recognised celebrated for their efforts in making their clients look winners – we are big believers in and feel beautiful. recognising and rewarding talent, Located near Falkirk and Stirling, the spa provides guests with an idyllic and we had a fantastic night retreat and state-of-the-art leisure facilities. These include eight treatment celebrating success alongside our rooms, a Rasul Mud therapy room and an ice fountain massage shower, colleagues from across the UK.” with highly trained staff on hand who were also recognised with a nomination for Spa Team of the Year. “We’re overjoyed at winning the Resident Spa of the Year Award,” comments Brett Ingle, General Manager. “Being nominated by our clients is an extra special honour, and to win this award based on their votes shows the true dedication and passion that our spa team deliver every time.” GN August 2018
34 iiaa – Salon of the Year Awards 2018 Time for celebration Skin care professionals from across the UK extraordinary beauty professionals who are so committed to achieving the very best for their clients.” and Ireland gathered this June to celebrate The International Institute of Anti-Ageing’s Winners and runner-up finalists were invited to the stage to collect their trophies from Nadine and Ewa Johnson, iiaa’s Head of (iiaa) Salon of the Year Awards 2018. Communications, UK and Ireland. Alongside the more established honours, three new categories were introduced for 2018: ‘Best More than 150 guests were in attendance at this year’s event, which Newcomer of the Year’, ‘Business Game Changer’ and ‘Therapist of took place at London’s stylish Quaglino’s restaurant, a favourite haunt the Year’. of the rich, fabulous and famous. David Alpert, Managing Director and Founder of the iiaa, added: “Every As distributors of Environ Skin Care, jane iredale mineral make-up and year, I am both proud and humbled by the extraordinary results that Advanced Nutrition Programme beauty supplements, the iiaa hold our skin care professionals achieve.” their annual awards to acknowledge the impressive achievements their top stockists and skin care professionals have made over the The Salon of the Year 2018 award winners are: past 12 months. First launched over 10 years ago, the awards serve to • Salon of the Year, UK - Tessa Stevens Health and Beauty Clinic honour not just business growth but excellence in client services, • Salon of the Year, Ireland - The Monica Tolan Beauty Clinic, Dublin marketing, education and overall contribution to the industry. • Therapist of the Year - Caroline Duffy, Touch and Glow • The Salon of Excellence Award - Gold: The Monica Tolan Beauty Clinic, Dublin; Following a champagne reception and sumptuous luncheon, guest of Silver: Beauty by Helen French; Bronze: Devon and Somerset Skincare honour and keynote speaker, Nadine Baggott (pictured), took to the stage. A trusted and renowned health and beauty journalist and TV • Business Game Changer, Ireland (2 rooms or less) - Joanne Woods, presenter with over 25 years in the industry, Nadine shared her The Beauty Specialists thoughts on the challenges currently facing beauty businesses. • Business Game Changer, Ireland (3 rooms or more) - Mediskin • Business Game Changer, UK (2 rooms or less) - The Skin Gym Nadine, who believes that age is no barrier to looking good and feeling • Business Game Changer, UK (3 rooms or more) - The Hogarth Health Club great, spoke passionately about empowering confidence and the • Best Newcomer of the Year for UK & Ireland - West One MYB need to reinvent and embrace change as a huge opportunity in the fast-paced digital economy. For the full list of this year’s winners and finalists, visit www.iiaa.eu. Speaking at the event, Nadine told us: “It’s been a pleasure to attend the iiaa Salon of the Year Awards and share in the celebration of iiaaltd iiaaLtd GN August 2018
iiaa – Salon of the Year Awards 2018 35 iiaa’s David Alpert welcomes guests. Salon of the Year, UK Salon of the Year, Ireland Therapist of the Year - Tessa Stevens Health and Beauty Clinic - The Monica Tolan Beauty Clinic, Dublin - Caroline Duffy, Touch and Glow (pictured with David Alpert) The Salon of Excellence Award Silver The Salon of Excellence Award Bronze Business Game Changer, Ireland (2 rooms or less) - Beauty by Helen French - Devon and Somerset Skincare - Joanne Woods, The Beauty Specialists Business Game Changer, Ireland (3 rooms or more) Business Game Changer, UK (2 rooms or less) Business Game Changer, UK (3 rooms or more) - Mediskin - The Skin Gym - The Hogarth Health Club GN August 2018
‘Fat-meelting PROFESSIONAL Maagic’ ‘THE LOSS LEAD DER’ LOOK “I was amazed to have lost 6 inches in total.” NEW “Amazingly,, afteer the one hour treatmentt I’d lost over 8 inchess in total from my body - including Inch LLo oss around the difficult to Bodyy Wrap shift areas of th he tummy System and arms.” CLOSER Tel: 0161 327 00 007 Get 10% Offf - Use Co ode: TIBBY10 - pro.tibb byolivierr.com .com Are you a qualified therapist who would like the opportunity to give back? Healing Hands Network is a UK-based self-funding charity that is made up of volunteer Complementary and Holistic Therapists. Our members offer their healing hands to support those who are suffering from the mental, physical and emotional after-effects of war, and who may be suffering from PTSD. We offer support in our clinic in Sarajevo, Bosnia and Herzegovina and several outreach locations to people suffering after-effects of the Balkan War. We also work in the UK supporting Veterans, serving personnel of the UK Armed Forces and their families. “It was a beautiful, touching, rewarding and hugely profound experience. One I will never forget and one I am extremely grateful to have been able to have experienced” - A.R, HHN Volunteer “HHN's therapies have helped me physically and psychologically. I can only say that I am reborn. Thank you HHN” - Bosnian Client treated by HHN Find out how you can get involved at www.healinghandsnetwork.org.uk Corporate sponsorship also available Registered charity number: 1080268
Beauty Products 39 And relax… The Travel Collection from Crystal Clear Quartz Spa is ideal for clients jetting off on their summer getaways, helping them to truly relax and unwind. Six travel-sized Bath and Massage Oils from the Hope, Energise and Happiness aromatherapy blends comprise the range, balancing and lifting the senses to encourage emotional and physical wellbeing. Packed full of nutrients, the oils contain such ingredients as strawberry seed oil, grape oil and avocado oil, which are rich in vitamins, antioxidants and essential fatty acids to nourish the skin and leave it feeling soft and supple. Crystal Clear: 0151 709 7227 Tone up For clients concerned about loss of firmness and premature ageing, Guinot’s Sculpt Expert Cream is just Prime and the thing. This double action cream protect helps to firm, tone and repair the skin tissue structure, as well as providing any problematic Salon System has expanded areas with an added lift. their Just Wax collection with With use, skin appears the launch of a new capsule smoother and firmer with a range, Just Wax Expert. visible improvement in As well as hot and strip waxes, overall quality, thanks to the range comprises the ingredients such as Cleanse & Prime serum, which hydroxyproline, which possesses anti-inflammatory boosts collagen synthesis, properties to remove and brown seaweed, that impurities and prime the skin helps to prevent the throughout the treatment. deterioration of collagen Meanwhile, Protect & Calm and elastin fibres. (pictured) is a dual purpose Guinot: 01344 873 123 lotion that protects areas of extreme dryness or sensitivity before waxing, whilst calming, cooling and soothing the skin Lashes of potential post-treatment. Salon System: 020 8573 9907 Unleash the true potential of your clients’ lashes with Mii Cosmetics’ Feature Length Lash Lover Mascara. Comprising a highly pigmented, long- lasting formula, this super volumising mascara is easily buildable and adds definition from the very first stroke. Plus, the twisted, multi-bristled brush instantly lengthens and defines to provide a wide-eyed effect, while the tapered tip ensures that even those small, hard-to-reach lashes are emphasised. Gerrard International: 0345 217 1360 GN August 2018
40 Beauty Products A warming addition BeautyPro has released their new Thermotherapy Masks to nourish and revitalise tired complexions. The foil backed masks create a seal against the surface of the face, allowing the client’s natural body temperature to warm the mask and accelerate the penetration of ingredients into the skin. Warming Silver Mask contains extracts of vitamin C and green tea, which hydrate and brighten the complexion, while the Warming Gold Mask incorporates hyaluronic acid and Q10, revitalising fatigued skin and reducing the appearance of fine lines. BeautyPro: 01273 323 232 Radiate healthy skin Help your clients achieve even-toned, radiant-looking skin thanks to Environ’s Focus Care Radiance+ range. Four products comprise the collection, which work together to inhibit the formation of hyperpigmentation, dark spots and uneven skin tone. Multi-Bioactive Mela-Prep Lotion brightens and evens out the complexion, Vita-Botanical Mela-Fade Serum System improves the appearance of discolouration and sun damage, and Intense C-Boost Mela-Even Cream reveals a brighter, healthier appearance overall. iiaa: 020 8450 2020 Liner for longer Mirror, HD Brows have announced the launch of their Long Wear Liner, allowing clients to style a variety of looks, from a dramatic cat eye to subtle definition. mirror... Smooth, soft and easy to apply, the gel eyeliner comprises a densely pigmented formula to ensure maximum impact and wear, as well as being paraben free and water resistant. Available in two shades: Intense Black and Rich Brown. Brand-new from NovaLash, HD Brows: 0113 224 7914 The Reflector aids lash artists in perfecting their extension services, allowing them to see the client’s lash line, gel patch or under eye sticker at all angles during the treatment. Ergonomically designed for ease of use, the large mirror enables techs to spot natural lashes that have yet to be bonded, while the long, gripped handle makes it easy to manoeuvre. NovaLash: 01273 041 966 GN August 2018
42 Beauty Products Bye bye, breakouts Dermalogica have released two new products as part of their Clear Start range for oily, breakout-prone skin. Formulated with salicylic acid, niacinamide and seaweed extract, the Breakout Clearing Booster wipes out breakout-causing bacteria in just 15 minutes, working with the skin’s natural microbiome to balance and prevent it from over-drying. Meanwhile, the Blackhead Clearing Fizz Mask (pictured) targets and eliminates stubborn blackheads, activating upon application to open pores, dissolve any congestion and combat dryness. Skin is left feeling clean, smooth and refreshed in three to five minutes, thanks to the mask’s unique fizzing technology. Dermalogica: 0800 591 818 Start from scratch Brand-new from Kaeso, these two nail care products will ensure that your clients get the most out of their manicures. All wrapped up Fresh Start Soak-Off Gel Polish Remover Available on spa menus worldwide, Shrinking Violet is (pictured) will erase all types of gel polish a pain-free and effortless body wrap system which and artificial nails, and is enriched with helps to target inch loss in problematic areas such as vitamin E and grapeseed oil to maintain nail the thighs, buttocks and abdomen. health and protect the skin from drying. The main ingredient is an active phospholipid solution Primed Gel Polish Prep & Finish prepares which is pre-blended with essential oils and used in the nail for the manicure, gently cleansing combination with occlusive therapy. During and sanitising the surface. It can also be treatment, the therapist wraps the client’s body in a used to remove tacky residue post- special heat-inducing film, Wrapture. This process treatment, ensuring a high shine finish. then works to increase the rate of skin absorption of Professional Beauty Systems: the active ingredients contained within the Shrinking 0141 814 6572 Violet slimming solution, thus aiding inch loss results. Tibby Olivier: 0161 327 0007 Tan on your travels Your clients can prep, maintain and top up their tans throughout their summer break, thanks to Sunescape’s Tanning Travel Kit. The kit comprises travel-friendly sizes of Instant Self-Tan Mousse, Gradual Tan Extender, Illuminating Body Tint, Hydrating Body Butter, as well as free Application and Tan Removal mitts. Clients can expect a natural bronze glow that fades naturally with no patches, and all products within the kit are paraben-free and contain natural, certified DHA. Dermapure: 01932 339 160 GN August 2018
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UK Spa Association 45 A need for change Lisa Barden, Vice Chair of the UK Spa Association, tells us more about the origins behind the not-for-profit trade body and explains the importance of their annual awareness event, National Spa Week, for the salon and spa industry. Founded in 2013, the UK Spa Association the physical and mental health benefits of regular treatments and spa attendance, whilst actively driving additional sales (UKSA) is the official not-for-profit trade body through participating outlets during a dedicated week of for the nation’s 8,000 spas and salons. We were promotions, activities and offers. set up in response to a clear industry desire for National Spa Week 2018 commences on 10th September and an impartial and proactive body to represent is a celebration of all things ‘spa’, with a particular focus on inclusivity. In addition, the week will highlight spas which and promote the spa industry. welcome visitors undergoing cancer treatment, who are blind or have other disabilities, while also showcasing spa packages for men, couples, groups and more at venues across the UK. Comprised of members and partners from across the UK spa, salon and wellness sector, the UKSA is run by an energetic board of industry experts that have been recruited for their specific This year, we are delighted to announce that we have partnered skillsets and experience. We are passionate about championing with Spabreaks.com, who are taking the reins as the official the benefits of regular spa attendance and treatments in the booking partner, as well as health and beauty brand, Lumity. public eye, working to progress the positive contribution made by the spa and salon industry to UK health, social and economic Throughout the week, participating spas will be offering wellbeing, and driving continuous improvement in quality training, discounts, from 20% off treatments and packages to special inclusiveness, high standards and professionalism at all levels. ‘friend goes free’ deals. Furthermore, those booking a spa day or break during National Spa Week will also receive a complimentary NailsInc nail polish. Details of these will be Ultimately, we are assisting the growth of the spa industry as a available soon at our website, spaweek.co.uk. whole. Simply put, our aim is to get more people into more spas more often. Clear communication In order to support our vision, the UKSA provides true value for During National Spa Week, we have three different audiences that money through robust benefits to our members that will we communicate to. The first, and critical to aiding significant positively impact their bottom line. These include networking growth in the industry, is the UK public. events, industry benchmarking insights, public campaigning and resources such as SpaLine, our 24/7 helpline. There is a clear opportunity for our industry to grow and thrive because modern day wellness issues, such as sick days (taken Uniting the industry through a deep seated lack of sleep) and working longer hours (that National Spa Week is our annual flagship consumer PR and keep us more alert and ‘tuned in’), create an environment where communications event. It is the only UK event of its kind that poorer lifestyle decisions are taken, resulting in self-medicating, unites the spa industry to increase consumer awareness around increased alcohol consumption, poor dietary choices and choosing GN August 2018
UK Spa Association The UK’s leading print trade title for Beauty, Nails, Tanning & Spa to zone out in front of the TV/screen, rather than take exercise and spend time with friends or family. At present, we estimate that there are 60,000 trained therapists and spa staff who are currently only taking care of 8% of the UK population. Therefore, the long-term aim of National Spa Week is to change the UK perception towards spa, as it’s still seen as a bit of an elitist activity, pampering or a luxury that we treat ourselves to occasionally. So, we need a cultural change. We want the UK to see regular spa attendance as essential as regular gym attendance for physical, emotional and mental health improvements. We’d like to see the UK attitudes to spa reflect the attitudes throughout wider parts of Europe, where regular visits to the spa are normal for the whole family. The second audience we wish to communicate to is the UK’s spas. We need all locations to take part in National Spa Week and, en masse, provide special introductory offers and treatment packages. If we are encouraging more of the public all over the country to give spa treatments a try, we need to make it as easy as possible for them to find a local spa taking part; the more spas that get involved, the better. In 2016, over 40% of the spas that participated saw a significant increase in the amount of treatment bookings that they took during the week and the following month. Our follow-up survey also revealed that many of those spas directly attributed this increase to National Spa Week and, on top of that, over 20% were new customer acquisitions. It’s important to note that the spas that achieved the best response during National Spa Week were the ones that used the free marketing toolkit available on the website, and went over and above to promote their participation in their local community. The third audience is spa suppliers and product houses. It’s so important for these brands and companies to get involved and support their spa operator customers with offers such as a free news gift with the purchase of a National Spa Week package or similar, and then go big on their own communication activities to promote the week, resulting in a real groundswell of spa industry ‘noise’ out there in the run-up to and during the week. FOLLOW US We created National Spa Week as a high profile campaign to drive this growth opportunity in our sector, and now, with big industry ON SOCIAL MEDIA hitters Spabreaks.com and Lumity on-board, we are confident that we are going to see the campaign skyrocket this year. To take part in this year’s National Spa Week campaign, free registration is available at www.spaweek.co.uk. For more Call: 01332 227690 information about the UKSA, visit www.spa-uk.org. Email: info@beautyserve.net www.BeautyServe.com l @GuildNewsBeauty f GuildNewsMag i GuildNewsMag Lisa Barden is Vice Chair of the UK Spa Association, as well as the founder of Barden Spa Ltd, with over 20 years’ experience in the spa and wellness industry. Nominated as a top 50 industry influencer (Professional Wellness Conference 2016), Lisa is a Reiki Master teacher and practitioner, holistic and beauty therapist and qualified teacher in Adult Learning. t: 07825 184 009 e: lisa.barden@bardenspa.com UKSpaAssociation ukspaassociation GN August 2018
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48 Vitamin Skin Care GN August 2018
As easy as Vitamin Skin Care 49 A,B,C Vitamins – we all know that they’re important, but how often do your clients incorporate them into their skin care regimes? With the rise of natural, organic and blue light emitted from computer, tablet and smartphone screens.” With all of these different influences to consider, a multitude of environmentally-friendly skin care at an vitamins have been incorporated into todays’ skin care offerings, all-time high, it’s no wonder that vitamins all of which can be tailored to treat individual skin issues. are a current hot topic within our industry. Modern-day formulas Suitable for every skin type, they offer a All vitamins can technically be incorporated into skin care, though host of benefits to treat all manner of skin A and C are considered the most ‘popular’; these antioxidant-rich concerns and have the potential to serve nutrients are renowned for their nourishing, protecting and repairing properties, and can be adapted to treat each and every skin type. as a lucrative means of income for your Despite having all of these elements in common, their individual advantages are what continue to set them apart in the skin care treatment menu. market and have seen them feature in a variety of product formulations. “Vitamin A has become very popular in the skin care and anti-ageing industries – there has been a lot of buzz in the media We used to get our entire vitamin intake from fruits and vegetables, about how effective it is,” says Clare Bradley, Trainer at Skinbrands. but thanks to technological developments, therapists now have a “Vitamin C is also very popular, as people become more aware of its plethora of vitamins at their fingertips, ready to deploy into a variety multiple benefits.” of skin care treatments and products. In fact, the latest formulas at your disposal are best equipped to deliver optimal results to the client, From serums and peels to creams and masks, there are endless ways as they have been specifically developed into ultra-stable forms. for you to incorporate vitamin skin care into your clients’ regimes. “Vitamins are notoriously tricky to formulate with, due to their However, in order to do this, you need to ensure that you are up-to- instability within products. They readily oxidise or degrade, meaning date with your knowledge on all things vitamins before you are in a the potential for skin impact is minimised,” explains Victoria Schofield, position to advise and educate your clients. Education Executive for Dermalogica. “More advanced formulas incorporate microencapsulation technology and/or ultra-stable forms to deliver maximum efficacy and real skin results.” Vitamin A But what exactly is oxidation, and why does it impact our body’s ability Vitamin A is arguably noted as the most essential to improve overall skin health? “Oxidation is the main cellular process nutrient that you should possess within your skin care that triggers skin ageing, and there are numerous factors causing it,” offering. Delivering a multitude of benefits, including notes Sam Houghton, Aesthetic Dermatology Adviser at mesoestetic. skin cell repair and hydration, our bodies depend upon “These include diet, sun exposure, city pollution, sleep deprivation and vitamin A for a large proportion of its functions. GN August 2018
50 Vitamin Skin Care Vitamins are so easily incorporated into “Vitamin A controls hundreds of thousands of our genes and is crucial for the development of cells and how they grow, multiply, many aspects of the skin care service, so change and differentiate,” agrees Dr. Des Fernandes, founder of Environ Skincare. “It matures the cells so that humans can develop into adults and function as living human beings, so there really is no replacement for it.” there really is no excuse to not be using them By penetrating directly into the epidermis, vitamin A is able to multiple times, particularly within a facial. counteract many of the factors that we associate with ageing and - Stacy Hanes, Bio-Therapeutic environmental damage. This is achieved by increasing its thickness and improving the health of the stratum corneum, skin tissue which controls its ability to shed dead cells. “Vitamin A is a ‘normalising’ vitamin and is often described as the gold standard of anti-ageing,” Vitamin E says Samantha Kendrew, Skincare Specialist at BeautyLab London. “It encourages cells to act in a younger way, helping to stabilise skin, An oil-loving vitamin recognised for its antioxidant and anti-ageing regulate all skin processes and boost collagen production.” properties, vitamin E should also feature within your skin care portfolio. “Vitamin E is best known for helping to fight free radicals,” A particularly effective form of vitamin A is retinol, which is recognised says Alice Howard, International PR Manager for CACI. “It helps to amongst skin care experts as being responsible for the production of hydrate and rejuvenate the skin, is an excellent moisturiser that new skin cells, encouraging the youthfulness of the complexion. contains powerful anti-inflammatory action and can prevent signs of “Retinol, or vitamin A, speeds up the cell turnover, encouraging our premature ageing.” skin to naturally exfoliate, removing dead skin cells and resurfacing the skin,” says Clare. “It also smooths out fine lines and wrinkles, Working together with vitamin C to better protect cell membranes and reduces pigmentation and can be very beneficial for clients with acne.” provide a more comprehensive defence against oxidative damage, However, this form of vitamin A can prove fairly aggressive on these vitamins combine to penetrate deeper into the epidermis, sensitive skins, so it may be worth investing in retinyl palmitate, which maintaining moisture levels and helping to keep skin smooth and has been said to provide less irritation compared to retinol. even. Moreover, vitamin E is responsible for the strengthening and regulation of individual cells, as well as enhancing connective tissue growth and blocking out harmful UV rays, leading to younger-looking, Vitamin C firmer and even-toned skin. Considered as the most potent antioxidant, many of your clients will already be familiar with vitamin C and the abundance of skin benefits Ones to watch that it offers. Recommended for brightening dull, tired skin, this vitamin is critical to the production of new collagen, hydrating the skin Having examined some of the many vitamins that you can and helping to keep it looking younger for longer. “Vitamin C is the incorporate within skin care, the question remains: how can you make darling of skin care and is super popular in age-fighting and skin the most out of these nutrients in terms of the services that you offer brightening serums,” comments Victoria. “It regulates the synthesis of in-salon? “Vitamins are so easily incorporated into so many aspects of collagen and elastin and is involved in the process of wound healing, the skin care service, so there really is no excuse to not be using them promoting the reduction of fine lines and wrinkles. It also decreases multiple times, particularly within a facial,” notes Stacy Hanes, Head of melanin synthesis, evening out skin tone and hyperpigmentation.” Education Development for Bio-Therapeutic. “Since vitamin C is water soluble, we like to use it during the lighter phase of a facial, and then As aforementioned, oxidative stress has considerable influence over bring out the heavy duty effects, such as niacinamide (vitamin B3) for the skin and how it reacts; it has been linked directly to skin ageing, pigment evening and blemishes.” Indeed, treatments such as facials allergies and inflammation, which require a copious amount of and massages will enable your clients to benefit the most from these antioxidants to counterbalance. However, thanks to its antioxidant- vitamins, as they allow the products to sink deeper into the pores and rich formulation, vitamin C repairs and protects the skin’s natural fully absorb to ensure maximum impact. defences, helping to delay ageing, alleviate allergies and neutralise free radicals. “As one of the strongest antioxidant vitamins, vitamin C can With so many vitamins to choose from, many of which come with fight against harmful external factors, such as sun damage or long, complex names, it can often be difficult to determine which pollution,” adds Ciara Gracie of Skintruth. “It’s a great all-rounder that ingredients to look out for when choosing vitamin-based products. anyone can benefit from, whether your concern is ageing, dullness or However, noting down some of the most common concentrated hyperpigmentation.” forms of these vitamins will stand you in good stead, such as retinol (vitamin A), niacinamide (a form of vitamin B) and ascorbic acid (vitamin C). “For clients with more challenging skin conditions such as acne, ageing and pigmentation, look for concentrated formulas with stable forms or encapsulated vitamins to ensure good results,” suggests Victoria. As with any treatment, contraindications can greatly impact your client’s experience and, ultimately, their skin results, so it’s important to talk things through before you launch into a new skin care regime. Certain vitamins have exfoliating properties that can cause the skin to peel and irritate, so make sure that you flag up any potential skin concerns that they may have.“If you’re using a reputable product line, vitamins are well formulated and shouldn’t cause difficulty on the skin,” says Stacy. “However, there are powerful ingredients that, in the case of vitamins A and C, can also be used as exfoliants, so you want to be careful with sensitive, thin skins to make sure that you don’t put too much activity on them.” GN August 2018
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