The Pilgrim Rabbit Around and about St Mary's Church Keeping you in touch - St Mary's Church, Beverley
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The Pilgrim Rabbit Around and about St Mary’s Church Keeping you in touch July 2020 (Special issue) We are continuing to produce our series of Special Issues of The Pilgrim Rabbit to maintain interest in the heritage of our beautiful church during the COVID-19 situation. These are being produced in digital form only at present, to reduce costs and enable us to produce them more frequently. Please forward this digital version on to anybody who might be interested. Anyone is able to opt in to receive future copies by emailing the church using the address on the back page. All past issues are also available on the website at https://stmarysbeverley.org/heritage/the-pilgrim-rabbit-newsletter/. Introduction “Hand me a pencil”: Beverley framing Pugin’s life Roland Deller, Director of By Libby Burgess Development writes: As we view St Mary’s engulfed in scaffolding, it is interesting to look back on It fills me with great pride that St previous chapters of restoration in the church’s history. Mary’s roster of architects includes two giants of the profession from The nineteenth the 19th century: the prolific English century was, across Gothic revivalist, Sir George Gilbert the country, a hive Scott, and the hugely influential of activity in church pioneer of that movement, Augustus restoration terms: Pugin, who is the subject of this we only have to special edition of The Pilgrim Rabbit. look out across the I am indebted to Libby Burgess for Wolds to see the writing the feature article for us eighteen churches about this visionary genius – most rebuilt or restored famously known for his design of ‘Big by the Sykes family Ben’. It has been fascinating to learn – an achievement more about Pugin’s restoration of St unparalleled Mary’s and a joy to discover the part elsewhere in which our church and town played in Britain (and it is Sir shaping his life and work. Tatton Sykes, 5th baronet, of course, It was a short life, lived out during a who famously period of massive social change. quoted that St Pugin looked to medieval Mary’s was architecture to make sense of the ‘unequalled in broken world in which he lived, and England and almost so it is that many of us find in the without rival on the ancient beauty of St Mary’s some continent of peace and deeper meaning in our Europe’). own troubled times. Amongst Approaches to Pugin’s vast legacy is his restoration restoration 150 or of St Mary’s – which helped keep the 200 years ago were place standing for over 150 years. starkly different to We take great inspiration from his today: ‘old’ did not example as we work tirelessly to St Mary’s great West Window. Glass by Hardman, designed by necessarily mean save the building and thereby Pugin. Image © J. Hannan-Briggs from The Geograph. Creative ‘good’ – or even preserve Pugin’s legacy in Beverley. Commons licence CC BY-SA 2.0 ‘important’ or Page 1
‘valuable’ – and so swathes of also for the societal injustices and back centuries, had been swept medieval architecture and design the growing industrial cities of the aside by the rise of evangelicalism were overwritten with new Victorian day. His architectural thesis and and non-conformism, and he ideals. career-launching book Contrasts mourned the medieval days when was published only a year before monks looked after the poor, as Oliver Twist, and Pugin was well compared with the brutal aware of the horrors of Dickensian workhouses of the 19th century. In London, offset against the frivolity Contrasts (argued, according to and decadence of Regency wealth Steven Carver, ‘with the fervour of (think Blackadder III), and the the pulpit and the subtlety of a dubious morals of those in the saloon bar rant’) he proclaimed that theatrical world where he had held architecture was a physical his first job (as a set designer). Pugin expression of a spiritual reality – that biographer Rosemary Hill writes that it was, in essence, sacred: Contrasts was ‘an attack on the On comparing the Architectural world of the Regency, that Vanity Works of the present Century with Fair of stucco-fronted manners, high those of the Middle Ages, the taste and low principles.’ (Its full wonderful superiority of the latter title says it all: Contrast; or, a must strike every attentive observer… Parallel between the noble edifices Who can regard those stupendous Augustus Pugin by unknown artist. Oil of the fourteenth and fifteenth Ecclesiastical Edifices of the Middle on canvas, circa 1840. The portrait centuries, and similar Buildings of Ages without feeling this includes the armorial bearings of the the present day: showing the observation in its full force? Here Pugin family – a black martlet – with present decay of Taste.) Augustus’ personal motto “en avant”, every portion of the sacred fabric meaning “onward”. Image © National As a convert to Catholicism – in bespeaks its origin; the very plan of Portrait Gallery, London. Creative reaction to his mother’s austere the edifice is the emblem of human Commons licence CC BY-NC-ND 3.0 Presbyterian faith – Pugin also felt redemption…. the eye is carried up that much of what mattered in and lost in the height of the vaulting Augustus Welby Northmore Pugin ancient Christianity, the idea of and the intricacy of the aisles; the rich (1812-1852) was, then, unusual in his being part of something stretching and varied hues of the stained time. He actively sought to recreate windows the modulated light, the the styles and aspirations of his gleam of the tapers, the richness of medieval forbears. He felt that the altars, the venerable images of medieval architecture was the the departed just, all alike conspired pinnacle of human achievement, that to fill the mind with veneration for the church building and design from the place, and to make it feel the earlier centuries had been to the sublimity of Christian worship… Such glory of God, and that more recent effects as these can only be produced trends of Classicist architecture on the mind by buildings… (inspired by Ancient Greece and Rome, beauty for beauty’s sake) (Contrasts, AWN Pugin, 1836) reflected everything that was wrong With such a passionate, talented, and with religion and society. His tastes historically significant figure as Pugin, were utterly infused with the tall, it is fascinating that not only is his light spaces, the pointed arches, high work at St Mary’s key to the building pointed windows, and intricate lattice as we know it today, but also carvings of the Gothic age (prevalent Beverley itself was key to his life – in from broadly the 12th to the 16th his earliest years, and in his final centuries): however, he felt strongly weeks. that all decoration should be serving a purpose, claiming, ‘it is alright to The son of an architectural draughts- decorate construction but never The Grange in Ramsgate, Kent. The man and writer on medieval home designed by Pugin for his family, architecture, the young Augustus construct decoration.’ from where he made many of his spent much of his childhood visiting designs. The property is now in the care It was not a simple rose-tinted churches, shaping his ideals from an of The Landmark Trust, so you can stay hankering after the past which fuelled there! Image: Alamy Stock Photo by early age. Augustus’ mother was from Pugin’s opinions: it was a concern Malcolm Fairman. Page 2
Lincolnshire stock and so naturally the architect Sir Charles Barry A recurring theme of Pugin’s life was Lincoln Cathedral was an important entered the competition to design that those who were lesser architects visit; however, the family also the replacement building, he but better businessmen found undertook the first of several engaged Pugin to help with the success where he didn’t, but Pugin significant trips further north in 1818 drawings. In the event, Barry did held doggedly true to his ideals. In (when Pugin was just six) covering win, but Pugin designed almost addition to the grand cathedrals, he York, Hull and Beverley. The great every element, from the famous designed countless houses, churches, medieval buildings he encountered façade overlooking the Thames, tiles, and items of furniture. In 1851 were profoundly influential on the with its Gothic spires and carving, to at the Great Exhibition, Pugin showed artistic young boy. Critically, it was the tiniest of interior details, and his complete range of Gothic also in Beverley, nine years later, that furnishings: modestly-priced Pugin met George Myers, domestic tables, plates and apprentice stonemason at garden seats, and sacred Beverley Minster, and this stained glass and vestments, relationship was to prove vital to all showing ‘a vision of the both men’s success in later life: good life in the modern city – when they met again in 1838 one that combined God with Pugin threw his arms round hearth and home’ (Rosemary Myers and declared, ‘You are Hill). the very man I want, you shall execute all my buildings.’ And Despite the prejudices and indeed it was Myers who carried restrictions faced by Catholics out the majority of Pugin’s at the time, Pugin was clearly designs, building no fewer than by this stage in great demand four Catholic cathedrals for him all over the country, a national – Birmingham (the first figure – but Beverley cathedral to be built in England continued to feature. He since Wren’s St Paul’s, and the worked on several occasions at first Catholic cathedral to be the Minster (whose people built in England since the once wrote to him demanding Reformation), Southwark, to know how they should heat Newcastle and Nottingham – their building, to which he within the space of a single replied shortly: ‘devotion’). At decade. In total Myers and Pugin St Mary’s he took on the role collaborated on a remarkable 36 of church architect from 1844 churches: the Hull-born builder until his death in 1852, one of became widely known as his first engagements in the ‘Pugin’s builder’, described by Church of England, and carried Pugin as ‘a rough diamond, but a out considerable work, mainly real diamond’. Without this to the exterior. He designed chance meeting in Beverley, the flying buttresses to shore up ideas of Pugin, a troubled genius the south wall, like those he’d who spearheaded the Gothic seen at a young age at Lincoln Revival and is seen as the father Cathedral. These went to the of the Arts & Crafts movement, heart of his Gothic ideals: would perhaps never have been Elizabeth Tower, known as ‘Big Ben’, designed by Pugin. buttresses were heavily used in realised. the old Gothic style to reduce Photo by David Iliff from Wikimedia Commons. Creative the need for the thick walls Commons licence CC BY-SA 3.0 By the late 1830s Pugin was previously required to bear the working on what should by structural load of a building – rights have been the project to the whole decoration of the House think of a typical castle wall – which secure his celebrity status: the design of Lords. However, Barry took all the thus allowed greater height. This of the Houses of Parliament. He had credit, and was paid almost external work was not completed by stood in the crowds (which also £25,0000, while Pugin was barely the time of his death, and his designs included painters Turner and even mentioned, was paid only were carried out a year later by his Constable) watching the old Palace of £800, and wasn’t even invited to the son Edward Welby Pugin. Augustus’ Westminster burn in 1834, and when opening. external work had also included the Page 3
replacement of the turrets at the top drawing talent to assist his father in ‘frantic, dangerous overwork’. He of the west front: the original turrets producing books for the architect refused administrative assistance, found their way into various gardens John Nash. This brilliance enabled claiming that if he employed a clerk, around Beverley, such as the one still him to work at an extremely fast pace ‘I should kill him in a week.’ He visible today outside the Council in adulthood: in just two years 1838- poured his own money into his Offices on Champney Road. 40, for example, he built or designed projects, causing constant financial eighteen churches, two cathedrals, anxieties. He cared deeply, and Pugin seemed to work best with his three convents, two monasteries, core collaborators around him: aside worked obsessively (perhaps one of several schools, and half a dozen the reasons that steady, from Myers, another key figure was houses. His diaries from throughout the glass maker John Hardman, dependable, unhurryable Myers was his life record intense bursts of such a good foil). The arrival of the whose Birmingham firm became the working all day and all night, juggling greatest exponents of stained glass in railways during his lifetime an extraordinary number of projects (including, in 1846, in Beverley) the country, and continued operating at once: Rosemary Hill writes of his until 2008. It was Hardman who enabled him to cram even more had made the glass for the new work into his schedule. Houses of Parliament, and he Increasingly, though, Pugin was also implemented Pugin’s other troubled by both physical illness major design for St Mary’s, the and depression: he was always three windows on the west prone to self-doubt and despair, front. Commissioned in 1848 and had to take to his bed with and installed in 1850, the great intermittent eyesight problems, West Window shows (aptly, for a but in his last years he was church dedicated to St Mary) troubled with nightmares, Jesus crowning the Virgin Mary gruesome daytime visions, and and, above this, the archangel intense pain, and his grip on Gabriel visiting Mary. Around Interior of the House of Lords Chamber, designed reality started to slip. Interwoven them are depictions of the by Pugin. Image © Parliamentary Copyright. with this declining health was twelve apostles, sixteen Creative Commons Licence CC BY-NC-ND 2.0 work on the project for which he prophets and a number of is perhaps the most famous: the angels. addition to the Houses of Two smaller windows in the church Parliament of a clocktower were also designed by Pugin: one (currently also shrouded in above where the toilets are now scaffolding), generally known by the located (depicting three scenes from name of its largest bell, Big Ben. The the life of John the Baptist: Baptism, Houses of Parliament architect Barry Preaching in the Wilderness, and was a thankless task master on the Beheading), and one near the South Big Ben project, but Pugin also entrance (depicting three scenes worked himself into the ground. He from the life of Christ: Adoration, wrote to Hardman: ‘I have also told Transformation and Presentation). [Barry] there can be no steam These were both installed after his without heat and no heat without death (1852 and 1855 respectively – fuel & that I have no fuel to keep up the latter based only on sketched steam...’. His energy and sanity just designs). All three windows include about lasted through to the wonderful examples of gothic completion in 1852 of his iconic Big geometric tracery full of trefoils and Ben design: when the tower was quatrefoils; it is but a small leap from completed in 1859, its clock was the these to the art of William Morris largest and most accurate four- that followed. faced striking and chiming clock in the world. Pugin had been a precocious child: one school master remarked that ‘he Very shortly after finishing the would learn in twenty-four hours Pugin’s drawing for St Mary’s design, on Ash Wednesday 1852 what it took other boys weeks to weather vane. (P. Atterbury ed. Pugin boarded a train to London acquire’, and barely into double A.W.N. Pugin Master of Gothic with his son Edward, and by the Revival, 1995, p. 42.) time he arrived he was psychotic figures he was using his notable Page 4
We want to hear from you This newsletter is by you and for you. If you would like to If you would like to join the mailing list and receive contribute information or an article for future issues please future copies of the Pilgrim Rabbit, please email: contact us using the email: stmarys.beverley@gmail.com stmarysbevnews@gmail.com and request specifically to be added to the Pilgrim Note that issues are produced ‘as and when’. If your article Rabbit mailings. needs to appear by a particular date please specify this in your email. and unable to recognise those around to be the cause of his illness, but it is Mary’s between 1853 and 1856) is him. There followed a muddled few now thought that he had syphilis, now in the Priest Rooms. A days in which he was troubled and perhaps contracted in those early replacement sits to this day in the sometimes violent. Myers tried to years working in theatres, where the intended location, atop the south rouse him from his misery by asking disease was rife. Pugin died of a west pepperpot turret. From here, him about their ongoing work in stroke later that year, on September as it circles in the wind, it overlooks Beverley. In a rare lucid moment, 14th 1852, aged just forty. the town, in which are interwoven Pugin supposedly responded, ‘Hand so many critical moments of this me a pencil!’ – and made a sketch on The original weather vane (which was extraordinary man’s colourful life, the back of an envelope, the very erected by Pugin’s son Edward as he and in which we see the skill and wrapped up the renovations of St Christian dedication of his work. final design he ever made: that of our St Mary’s weather Three resources were vane. It is annotated in his particularly useful in writing hand with the words ‘St this article, which might be Mary’s Beverley March 1 my th of interest to those who 40 birthday and the English would like to know more nation.’ (It’s not clear exactly about Pugin: Rosemary what the ‘English nation’ Hill’s book God’s Architect: means here, but many of his Pugin and the building of writings from the preceding Romantic Britain; Steven weeks had been incoherent.) Carver’s article Pugin: The That evening he was admitted Mad Genius of the to an asylum. His (third and Gothic Revival on his blog last) wife Jane was not Ainsworth & Friends; and allowed to visit him for four the 2012 BBC documentary months, and his treatment God’s Own Architect, was, by modern standards, Letter from Edward Welby Pugin to Mr J. James, mason, presented by Richard cruel. For years, biographers instructing him to shore up, without delay, the ceiling of the south transept of St Mary's, dated 29 June 1853. Image © Taylor, which is available on declared mercury poisoning RIBA (The Royal Institute of British Architects). YouTube. Introducing Andy Burrell Andy has been our Inspecting Architect reordering of the Royal Chapel of St since 2019. He is a member of the Peter ad Vincula - final resting place of Diocesan Advisory Committee for the the headless body of Beverley lad, St Care of Churches in the Diocese of John Fisher! Chichester, and a director of Carden & Godfrey, the London-based Like Pugin, Andy’s time at St Mary’s is architectural practice. Although he lives marked by the building being in need of Down South, Andy is a regular visitor to major repair, and we feel lucky to have Beverley, as he also looks after the such a level-headed colleague on the Minster. team. He is overseeing the project to restore the North Nave Clerestory and Other historic buildings which Andy currently planning the next phase of cares for include the Tower of London, works: the conservation of the South where he recently carried out a Nave Clerestory. Page 5 St Mary’s Church, North Bar Within, Beverley, HU17 8DL. Tel: 01482 869137
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