FOR SINNERS & SAINTS ALIKE - Coachella Valley Beer Scene
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BEER PAPER
Drink Read
local. local.
beerpaperla FREE! VOLUME 6 | ISSUE 12 | May 2019
FOR SINNERS & SAINTS ALIKE
Tomme Arthur’s name is synonymous with the
craft beer movement. He is a true champion
to all who have followed the evolution of craft
beer.
Over his brewing career, Tomme has won
numerous awards including twice being
named Small Brewpub and Small Brewpub
Brewer of the Year (GABF), also named Small
Brewery and Small Brewery Brewer of the
Year (GABF), and World Champion Small
Brewpub and Brewer of the Year (World
Beer Cup). In 2018, Tomme was awarded
the prestigious Russell Scherer Award for
Innovation in Craft Brewing.
By Ryan Sweeney
(FULL COVER STORY ON PAGE 12)
Tomme Arthur Photo Credit: Studio Schulz
INSIDE
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PAGE 4 MAY 2019 | Beer Paper
BOTTLECRAFT
TEN QUESTIONS WITH BRIAN JENSEN
by DANIEL DRENNON
that was truly dedicated to craft beer DRENNON: You opened your first
only. There were liquor stores with join in San Diego/Little Italy eight
really good selections of beer, but the years ago. Seeing the shift from
experience was nothing like I had seen bottles to cans over that span, would
at the wine shop I worked at, where you now have called it Cancraft?
every employee was passionate and
knowledgeable about the product. I JENSEN: (laughing) I’m not sure. So
shared the idea with some friends and many beers these days are in cans, that
family and the response came back might’ve have been a good idea! But
positive. It was relatively inexpensive I like the sound of Bottlecraft. Maybe
to open, and at twenty-seven I didn’t that’s just because I’m so used to
have much money, so that was saying and hearing it.
important. DRENNON: What do you think of
When I opened, I was expecting it the cans versus bottle debate since it
to be mostly a bottle shop but made still rages on for the purists in each
sure I could serve beer too as I wanted camp?
to offer flights and opportunities for JENSEN: I think cans are great and are
brewers to come in and chat about here to stay. They’re great for the beer
Bottlecraft Owner Brian Jensen Photo Credit: Tim Stahl their beers. Customers loved to hang
and great for the environment. It’s a
The Long Beach beer scene continues JENSEN: I wanted to work in the out and sample what we were offering win win!
to explode as surrounding areas seem food and beverage industry but didn’t so I started to add more and more draft
to have slowed in the number of know what exactly I wanted to do, so
brewery and beer bar openings. The after going to college in San Diego, I
latest, greatest addition is Bottlecraft, moved to New York to go to culinary
situated in the very cool “The Hangar school. After finishing, I bounced
at LBX” facility adjacent to the Long around between different hospitality
Beach Airport. Featuring 27 rapidly- jobs for about five years, including
rotating and extremely well-curated cooking, bartending, brewing, and
taps, Bottlecraft’s opening created an sales. Nothing really felt right and I
immediate buzz among LBC beer fans. started to think that maybe I should
do my own thing. I started to jot down
This is owner Brian Jensen’s 6th notes on ideas I had and share them
Bottlecraft location. The other five with people I trusted. One idea was for
critically-acclaimed locations are in a bottle shop and bar.
San Diego. I sat down with Jensen to
get his assessment of the current craft I worked at great neighborhood
beer climate and ask why he chose wine shop in Brooklyn after culinary
Long Beach for his latest spot. school and thought it would be cool
to do something similar, but only
DRENNON: How and when did focusing on beer. Some bottle shops Ryan Rowland, Bottlecraft Long Beach Manager Photo Credit: Tony Betancourt
you conceive of the bottle shop/bar had opened up around the country
concept? but San Diego didn’t really have one over the years and the concept evolved DRENNON: Speaking of divergent
to be a bottle shop and bar, rather than camps, what do you think of the wine
just a bottle shop you can drink at. versus beer juxtaposition now that
you have opened Vino Carta in your
At Long Beach the original concept original Bottlecraft location in Little
has evolved as far as not including Italy?
the bottle shop. This is due to some
restrictions where we are at, but also JENSEN: I think there is more and
because it was my first expansion here more overlap happening these days.
in California outside of San Diego We’re seeing a lot of beer drinkers,
and the The Hangar Food Hall was a especially brewers, interested in wine
perfect way for us to get situated in and coming into the wine shop. Vino
Long Beach without the complexities Carta focuses a lot on natural wine,
that come along with a bottle shop. which has some interesting processes
The same objective persists though, to that we’re starting to see brewers
offer a highly rotating lineup of great utilize with funky and sour beers like
beer. aging in concrete eggs and amphoras.
Beer Paper | MAY 2019 PAGE 5
Culturally, wine has typically been things have been getting better lately where to expand. A part of me wants to a standard that we hold to and help us
more formal and beer informal, but as things have mellowed out. That or keep opening new spots so our current decide by.
that’s changing with a lot of the wine I’m only tasting the good ones! team has more opportunity to grow,
industry loosening up and being but I don’t want to do anything too DRENNON: As the pie gets sliced
casual, including fun wine bars that Some other changes have been that risky. thinner and thinner, what advice
blast hip hop and rock, canned wine craft used to be all about selling in would you have for anyone wanting
and witty labels reminiscent of beer bombers, then shifted to 12 oz bottles DRENNON: Your tap lists are world to open a brewery, beer bar or bottle
labels. and now to 16 oz cans. Beer styles class. What process do you use in shop?
have changed too, with breweries the selection of the breweries and the
DRENNON: Why did you choose brewing beers they would have sworn beers? JENSEN: Don’t make big bets
Long Beach for your latest location? against when I started eight years ago. that you’re going to be the next
JENSEN: It’s often a group decision big brewery. The chances of that
JENSEN: Long Beach has been on my DRENNON: Where do you think amongst the Bottlecraft team. We are getting slim as more and more
radar since I realized that the idea of craft beer is headed? try not to let reps or even our brewer breweries are opening and putting out
Bottlecraft had legs. I was born in LB, friends influence our decisions, as great beer. There is literally not enough
my family still lives nearby and I come JENSEN: One thing I’ve learned over much as they sometimes try (he draft lines or space on the shelves for
up often. Also, the beer scene up here the years is that I really can’t see the laughs). We taste whenever we can, all the great beer out there today. Pick
is great and I wanted to be a part of it. far future in this industry, it’s just but sometimes that’s not always a great neighborhood to be a part of
changing too fast. I know it’ll continue possible. Some brewers and breweries that isn’t highly saturated and focus on
DRENNON: How have you seen the to change. I just don’t know how. are so good, we trust whatever they offering it great beer and atmosphere...
landscape of craft beer evolve over Rather than trying to predict how it make to be good. Other breweries that then be prepared for change.
the past eight years? will change, I just try to react quickly we either don’t know or have put out
when it does. lesser quality beer in the past will be Daniel Drennon is the publisher, editor
JENSEN: It’s definitely expanded in and head writer of BEER PAPER. Like
ways I would have never guessed. DRENNON: Where do you see more scrutinized.
a million other dreamers, Drennon
A couple of years ago the number of yourself and Bottlecraft in another Then, once we put it on draft, we moved to LA to write screenplays. Like
breweries opening and expanding was eight years? listen to our guests. If something is 999,000 of them, he was ultimately
hard to keep up with. Since then it’s selling well, it indicates that customers unsuccessful. In 2009, inspired by
slowed down and we’ve seen a lot of JENSEN: Still here trying to bring
are loving it. If it’s moving slow, we the artistry of American brewers, he
breweries sell out or close; I guess that in great beer for people to enjoy! We think hard about why that is and if we became the first dedicated beer writer
just goes with the boom. might have some more locations by
that time, but who knows. I really should bring the beer or the brewery for the LA Weekly.
When breweries were opening just try to do things when cool again. It’s tough but with literally
practically daily, there was a lot of opportunities arise, and these days, I thousands of options out there and a
mediocre beer out there, but I believe am getting more and more picky about finite number of taps, we have to have
PAGE 6 MAY 2019 | Beer Paper
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HANGAR 24
HANGAR 24: RENAVIGATING THE EVOLVING
CRAFT BEER SCENE
by ANDREW SMITH
With its nineteenth century mansions and expansive their surroundings to showcase local, natural flavor.
orange groves, the city of Redlands evokes a rich As Ben Cook explained: “Our orange grower is
sense of California heritage. Since it opened eleven 500 feet from our brewery. You can’t replicate that
years ago, Hangar 24 has drawn upon and thrived authenticity.” Rather than extracts, juice, or orange
on that heritage. Situated on the outskirts of the peel, Hangar 24 throws the whole orange into the
city, adjacent to the municipal airport and against blender. The result is a fresh earthiness, and even a
a backdrop of the San Bernardino mountains, you little bitterness, that you’d be hard-pressed to find
can’t escape the feel of California history and the elsewhere. “We’ve invested heavily in specialized
great outdoors as you sip on fresh taproom pours. equipment, equipment that only makes sense if
you’re making a lot of the stuff.” One example is the
The story of Hangar 24 started with one man’s brewery’s half-million dollar centrifuge.
passion for community, adventure, and great beer. As
a homebrewer, Ben Cook would trade his beers for As an early entrant on the scene, Hangar took off
airplane rides and flying lessons. In the daytime, he fast. “We had good beer and good branding. We
would fly aircraft, then settle down with friends in a were one of the few craft brewers in distributor
repurposed hangar for beers and barbecue. A job as a portfolios and caught everyone’s attention.” Orange
QA Manager preceded the Master Brewers Program Wheat, alongside Betty IPA, spread rapidly on the,
at UC Davis, before he opened Hangar 24 in 2008. as then, underdeveloped markets of California,
Nevada, and Arizona. They opened a second location
Just as the local orange groves put Redlands on the in Lake Havasu. Not only did they ride in the
map, Hangar 24’s flagship Orange Wheat put the slipstream of the craft beer wave, they led the way,
brewery on the map. At a time when Blue Moon
Ben Cook - CEO/Owner and Shock Top were all the rage, Hangar 24 used
Photo Credit: Collin Callahan (HANGAR 24 continued on page 10)
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PAGE 10 MAY 2019 | Beer Paper
every neighborhood. New breweries There’s also been a streamlining
are expected to continue opening, but of products for distribution, while
it’s led to downgraded expectations simultaneously expanding offerings at
for regional breweries. There’s an the brewery. “On the distribution side,
abundance of choice, as well as an we’re trying to focus on doing more
affinity towards local, both from with less, whereas our taprooms are
consumers and distributors. There’s the flipflop of that. We’ve never had
also the factor of corporate macro the variety of beers that we have now
breweries and their newly acquired in our own locations. We’re focusing
“craft” portfolios, their national chain on putting the right product in the right
agreements, and other prohibitive place.”
practices.
That strategy has led to investment in
As an early entrant, Hangar 24 still a newer pilot system and a Research &
holds its own in non-local areas Development program. While quality
through brand awareness, reputation assurance has “always been a massive
and uniqueness. But it’s not the open priority” for Cook, this new investment
range of ten years ago. That’s led to places an emphasis on innovation.
a scaling back that Cook has labelled They’ve also enlisted a new Director
Hangar 24 Annual Air Fest Photo Credit: Collin Callahan “rightsizing.” Recent headlines might of Brewing Operations. Sofonyas
scream of despair, but the changes Cherinet, formerly of Karbach
(HANGAR 24 continued) in the United States in 2008, compared have been much more measured. Brewing and New Glarus, “brings a
to over 7,000 today. Whereas the early A drop from 140 employees to 80 level of expertise that we’ve never had
pushing close to 40,000 barrels. “For 2000’s was a time of retail shelves employees was largely due to the before inside our company.”
a couple of years, we were doubling and tap handles crying out for craft separation of their distribution wing.
output, making us the fastest growing diversity, many today are speaking of As external markets become more
“We started that out of necessity, but
brewer in the country.” market “saturation.” we felt that it had fulfilled its purpose. challenging, Cook is looking towards
We wanted to focus our resources expanding the company’s own retail
But around 2015, things started Dr. Bart Watson, the Brewers
on the brewery.” The newly formed outlets. He’s confident of opening a
to slow. Craft beer continued to Association’s chief economist, is more
Co-Hop Beverage is owned by former third (and possibly a fourth) location
grow, but at a much slower pace. At level-headed in dubbing the current
Hangar 24 employee, Steve Garcia, in 2019. “There are several locations
the same time, there was a hugely situation, “normalcy.” What we’ve
and they remain the brewery’s largest running through the pipeline, but
disproportionate rise in new brewery seen is a changing landscape, one
distributor. Co-Hop also retained most we want to be very strategic, ensure
openings. There were 1,500 breweries where there’s now a brewery in almost
of Hangar 24’s distribution employees. that each is special, represents us as
a brand, and provides our customers
The other big move was a partial shift with a unique experience.”
in production to Gordon Biersch,
under an “alternating proprietorship.” Echoing the words of Dr. Watson
Hangar 24 leases equipment from at last month’s Craft Brewers
Gordon Biersch with all product Conference, Cook sees community
sourcing still happening in Redlands: and cooperation as the way forward.
“Same ingredients, same suppliers, “As craft brewers, we all need to work
same oranges from Redlands.” Prior to together.” That much is evident in
that, Hangar 24 had been struggling to Hangar 24’s annual AirFest, scheduled
meet demand, even while running 24/7 for May, an invitational that brings
shifts. At that time, plans were drawn together 20 to 30 breweries. It was also
up for a second brewery. “If we’d gone evident in the recent Redlands Craft
that route, we’d be out of business Beer Week, which saw Hangar 24 do
now. The alternating proprietorship a collaboration beer with neighbors
allows us to be more nimble, and gives Escape and Ritual, as well as their
us better economies of production.” participation in the Resilience IPA
fundraiser organized by Sierra NevadaBeer Paper | MAY 2019 PAGE 11
to benefit the Camp Fire victims.
The spirit of community and adventure
that laid the foundation of the brewery
feels as true today as it did eleven
years ago. I’d heard that Cook was as
equally committed to recruiting people
to aviation as he was to craft beer, but
got a much more passionate response
than I envisaged:
“Aviation and anything adventurous.
One of our goals is just to get people
to expand their minds, push their own
boundaries, be adventurous. That
could be at the brewery and being
adventurous with their beer selection
and their palates. We also want people
to get into aviation. At our American
Light launch there were signups for
hang gliding and paragliding lessons.
‘Adventures we share’ is our tagline.
Let’s go through life and share an
adventure together, then afterwards,
Taps at Hangar 24 Photo Credit: Shelley Smith
let’s share a beer together. We believe
the world would be a better place if interested now. We’ve gone through have been more challenging but insists authenticity, community, and adventure
people push their boundaries, share great effort to put the Independent he’s in this for the long haul. “We’ve continue to prosper.
community, and have a beer together. Craft Brewers Seal on all of our had to restructure out of necessity. It
It’s all about having fun and going packaging. So, it’s pretty clear where sucks to lose people, but everything Andrew Smith has been a craft beer
through life together.” we stand on that.” we’re doing is aimed towards a employee and advocate for the past
brighter future. Growing in a different 20 years. Raised in England, he
And what about the rumors of There have been layoffs due to direction, and adding more jobs, that is “thought” he knew everything about
Anheuser Busch sniffing around a few restructuring of production schedules the absolute goal.” beer before moving to the United
years ago? “A long time ago, yes. We and reorganization of distribution States. He runs a local Coachella
weren’t interested then, and we’re not routes. Cook admits that recent times May the spirit of independence, Valley blog at CVBeerScene.comPAGE 12 MAY 2019 | Beer Paper
TOMME ARTHUR
FOR SINNERS & SAINTS ALIKE
by RYAN SWEENEY
Tomme Arthur’s name is synonymous
with the craft beer movement. He
is a true champion to all who have
followed the evolution of craft
beer. Since 1996, Tomme has
been professionally brewing in the
San Diego area, starting with the
Cerveceria La Cruda brewery. In
1997, he was named head brewer
at Pizza Port in Solana Beach. A
founding partner of Port/Lost Abbey
Brewing (2006), he added Hop
Concept in 2015. Over his brewing
career, Tomme has won numerous
awards including twice being named
Small Brewpub and Small Brewpub
Brewer of the Year (GABF), also
named Small Brewery and Small
Brewery Brewer of the Year (GABF),
and World Champion Small Brewpub
and Brewer of the Year (World Beer
Cup). In 2018, Tomme was awarded
the prestigious Russell Scherer Award
for Innovation in Craft Brewing.
I first met Tomme in 2008 while on a
San Diego beer run. When I stopped
into Pizza Port Carlsbad, I accidentally
ran into Tomme, and he invited me Tomme Arthur Photo Credit: Ryan Sweeney
back to Port/Lost Abbey. After a ARTHUR: I was gifted a homebrew (blocks from the beach) and it really run through those hoses.
tour of the brewery, he made sure I kit for my graduation from college suited me well. I was told to make
was fully loaded with beer to bring in 1995. At that time I was a major kick as beers. I was handed some SWEENEY: You started brewing
back to LA. After that, every time I enthusiast of craft beer but I knew iconic recipes (Swamis IPA, Sharkbite in the ‘90s, and the brewing scene
went to San Diego, Lost Abbey was squadoosh about sanitation and all Red and Old Boneyards Barleywine) has changed dramatically since you
a mandatory stop. And every time I grain brewing. Needless to say I was which were heavily hopped and bad started. What was the biggest change
stopped in, Tomme would make sure a crappy homebrewer. Interestingly ass brews. And lastly the clientele was and did this evolution of craft beer
to have a beer with me at the tasting for our second brew, we attempted a ready to embrace just about anything I surprise you?
room. More than a decade later, batch of watermelon wheat and using could imagine. All told a very fertile
Tomme and I are still good friends, ARTHUR: Everyone knows that
Jolly Rancher candy for the flavoring environment to let my imagination run these are interesting times we live
our relationship evolved from beers at addition. So clearly I was bit with loose.
Lost Abbey to beers also in Austria, in right now. So many of us that
an experimental bug early on in the were part of the earliest San Diego
Belgium, and Maui. One thing became process. Pizza Port had been a fervent supporter
clear over the years of our friendship: for craft beer (locals especially) so that Craft Community busted our butts
Tomme is the one of the most generous SWEENEY: While you were the head made it easy to grow the reputation of to elevate this city’s beer scene to
guys I know, always taking time to talk brewer at Pizza Port, the San Diego the space(s) as a great destination for one of prominence, it was a massive
about beer with anyone, making sure craft beer scene really exploded, flavors of beer you didn’t see on tap collective effort. One of the things I
you always have more than enough growing from a local to nationally at other locations. I feel very strongly love the most about this community
beer, and always willing to pick up renowned scene, with the Pizza Port the promotional and event work that is that we nourished and fed it. And
the kebab tab. I was really honored to family being a major contributor Tom Nickel, Jeff Bagby and I pushed then we have passed the baton and
interview my friend for Beer Paper, to the growth. What was it like to through the late 90’s and early 2000’s others are continuing to ensure that the
and hopefully you get more than a few be part of that scene as it grew in really ingrained Pizza Port even further foundations we laid support an even
insights into what makes Tomme such recognition? into the community of great craft beer. longer term vision than I am sure many
a force in beer, but also what makes We threw so many damn great festivals of us sought. Ultimately we have all
him an amazing person. ARTHUR: First I was so incredibly with epically curated beer lists. But wanted to tell the story of amazing
lucky to land that job as the Head you cannot think of Pizza Port without beers being brewed in America’s
SWEENEY: How did you first get into Brewer in Solana Beach at Pizza Port. mentioning what an amazing place Finest City. And the fact that we
craft beer and brewing, and what was I doubt many positions in San Diego Gina and Vince were able to cultivate continue to be an epicenter of craft
the draw to making beer at that time? would have been the same type of and all the talent laced liquid that has beer speaks volumes to the work that
spring board. The location was ideal continues even to this day.Beer Paper | MAY 2019 PAGE 13
SWEENEY: At what point did you Brett Pack come from, and what was
realize what you were doing in beer it like to be part of the first super
was different, that you were having an collaboration in craft beer?
impact not just in the San Diego beer
scene but nationally in craft beer. ARTHUR: Our good friend Dick
Cantwell wrote a column for American
ARTHUR: This is not an easy Brewer Magazine. In it he called us
question to answer. But if I had to the Brett Pack. To my knowledge no
drop a pin in the timeline, I would say one had ever called us that before. It
when Cuvee de Tomme hit the scene. was a humorous way to label us and
In 1999, it was named Malt Advocate describe the trip we collectively took
Beer of the Year. It followed up that to Belgium back in 2006.
award with a silver medal at the 2003
Great American Beer Festival (in the I think one of my favorite recollections
first year of the Experimental Beer about the collaboration was when
Category) and earned the same award it was announced. We had already
again in 2004. spent a ton of time lining up the entire
process. The beer had been decided,
This led to Pizza Port Solana Beach the location, the entire syllabus (if you
being asked to participate in Michael will) of how it was going to come to
Jackson’s Rare Beer Club and his fruition had been determined. I was
visit to Solana Beach to do some perusing Beer Advocate.com one day Photo Courtesy of Lost Abbey
filming during the 2004 Craft Brewers and a member basically stated “there’s did you have any idea the impact it was spot on. We made 300 cases of
Conference. no way in hell these five guys could would have? this beer and it continues to amaze
ever agree on anything. This beer is me every time I see one being popped
Cuvee de Tomme was a landmark beer going to suck…” We keep threatening ARTHUR: I think we all secretly
in San Diego as there weren’t many open and let to breathe.
to make another sucky batch of beer. hoped it would be a legacy beer. I
mixed culture beers being produced (if But I think we’re concerned no one mean I certainly didn’t want to be SWEENEY: Tomme Arthur vs. The
any). It has also made several legacy will show up to buy it. responsible for the stewardship of a World was an early craft beer comic
beer lists including Food and Wine’s sucky collaborative beer. Since the with you as the main subject, what do
25 Most Influential Beers of the SWEENEY: Isabelle Proximus was beer was made at our location and you think they got right, and what did
modern Craft Brewing movement as it one of the first true whale beers and aged in our building, I was chiefly you think they missed?
inspired a new generation of brewers. changed the landscape of how beer tasked with ensuring the beer wasn’t
was bought, traded, and sold. When released too early and that the blend
SWEENEY: Where did the moniker you first started to plan out this beer, (SINNERS & SAINTS continued on page 15)NEVER
GO
HOME
AL0NE.
BIG ASS CANS... FILLED TO GO.
SHERMAN OAKS WESTWOOD WEST L.A. HANCOCK PARK
@BLUEBIRDBREW
@BROXTONBREW
@STALKINGHORSEPUB @6THLABREABeer Paper | MAY 2019 PAGE 15
(SINNERS & SAINTS continued) SWEENEY: You now have three beer
brands; Port Brewing, Lost Abbey,
ARTHUR: They definitely had fun and Hop Concept. Can you describe
poking the bear with that one. It was each brand and what makes each
part of a few years where we made unique?
some mistakes and the portrayal
definitely threw shade our way. I ARTHUR: When we opened the
never started making beer with the brewery in 2006, we knew that the two
intent of being featured in a comic original brands (The Lost Abbey and
strip so that was novel. I think Port Brewing) would be a big part of
the story boards were funny- They our long-term plans. The Lost Abbey
certainly got that part right. But I would be Belgian Inspired and rely
think ultimately a 5-panel (vs 3) comic on the heritage of Belgian Brewers
might have afforded more. while at the same time embracing
our own artistic sense of beer. Port
SWEENEY: Being a legacy American Brewing would be a nod to the beers
sour beer brewery, where do you see and recipes from Pizza Port that we
the future of barrel aged sours? felt had real opportunities to excel
in packaged formatting. The Hop
ARTHUR: Barrel aged sours are
Concept continues to be a bright spot Photo Courtesy of Lost Abbey
being tested and we certainly see it the years but this brand continues to
for us. We imagined the beer in 2015 SWEENEY: After traveling all over
in the marketplace. With quick and grow and remains true to the roots of
as a way of standing out in a very the world to different breweries, has
kettle sours taking less time to bring straightforward no gimmick brewing
crowded IPA market. The goal for there been a specific trip or location
acidity to the market, it’s changed the
the brand was simply fresh IPA in an with crisp and bright hop flavors being
landscape. That being said, we know the hallmarks. you learned the most from and/or
obvious manner. So we launched with were most impressed with?
there are consumers who still love the
beers based on taste and smell. First SWEENEY: Religion plays a major
beers we make and appreciate the extra
out of the gate was Dank and Sticky theme in lost abbey beers, but how ARTHUR: You and I were lucky
time and patience it requires to make
followed by Citrus and Piney and do you pick the artwork. Is it a enough to travel together to Austria
some of the sour beers we produce. I
Tropical and Juicy. For the consumer, collaborative decision? What is your and Germany. I learned it’s frigging
think one of our biggest strengths in
this meant you would know exactly favorite label and why? cold in the dead of winter over there!
this regard is our house character and
what to expect without needing an app But seriously on that trip we got to
the true sense of Terroir that we’re able
to tell you what the beer tasted like. ARTHUR: The artwork is one of the experience a brand new Trappist
to capture in our bottles.
We’ve added some new wrinkles over three story telling components for Brewery in Austria. That didn’t
The Lost Abbey brands. We have suck as the Head Brewer announced
highly evocative images, vibrant back he’d been at The Lost Abbey the
stories on the labels and of course week before. On that same trip we
the liquid in the bottle. If we have got to soak in a stein beer tradition
achieved our goal, all three of these with hot iron pokers being quelled
will work in concerted harmony to in our drinking glasses (can you say
deliver a great story. The artwork is smokey)! And lastly we drank tons of
the most collaborative of the three Keller Pils in the bier halls of Munich.
components as it involves our artist Perhaps you’re surprised I didn’t
(Sean Dominguez) me acting as mention a trip to Belgium? Those
art director (framing the story) and have been off the charts unworldly as
marketing ensuring the story resonates well. But what happens in Brussels
and aligns with the beer name. It’s stays in Brussels. You can look it up.
one of my favorite processes that we It’s a thing.
employ at the brewery. I think in the
13 plus years we have been open, we
have worked through over 60 unique (SINNERS & SAINTS continued on page 17)
pieces of art.F E AT U R E D L I S T I NG S
6th & La Brea Brewery & Cismontane Brewing Company Provisions Deli & Bottle Shop
Restaurant 1409 E Warner Suite C, Santa Ana 143 N Glassell St, Orange
600 S. La Brea Ave, Los Angeles cismontanebrewing.com provisionsmarkets.com
6thlabrea.com
Claremont Craft Ales Riley’s On 2nd
Absolution Brewing 1420 N Claremont Blvd #204c, Claremont 5331 E 2nd St, Long Beach
2878 Columbia St, Torrance claremontcraftales.com rileyson2nd.com
absolutionbrewingcompany.com
Common Space Brewing Santa Ana River Brewing
Angry Horse Brewing 3411 W El Segundo Blvd, Hawthorne Company
603 W Whittier Blvd, Montebello commonspace.la 3480 W Warner Ave unit B, Santa Ana
angryhorsebrewing.com www.santaanariverbrewing
El Segundo Brewing
Barbara’s at the Brewery 140 Main St, El Segundo Skyland Ale Works
620 Moulton Ave #110, Los Angeles elsegundobrewing.com 1869 Pomona Road E & F, Corona
barbarasatthebrewery.com skylandaleworks.com
ESBC The Slice & Pint
Beachwood Brewing 130 W Grand Ave, El Segundo Smog City - Steelcraft
7631 Woodwind Dr, Huntington Beach elsegundobrewing.com 3768 Long Beach Boulevard #110,
beachwoodbbq.com Long Beach
Farmers Market Bar 326 steelcraftlb.com/smog-city-brewing
Beachwood BBQ & Brewing 6333 W 3rd St., Los Angeles
210 E 3rd St, Long Beach fmbars.com Smog City Brewing
beachwoodbbq.com 1901 Del Amo Blvd, Torrance
Firestone Walker - The Propagator smogcitybrewing.com
Beachwood Blendery 3205 Washington Blvd, Marina Del Rey
247 N Long Beach Blvd, Long Beach firestonebeer.com The Stalking Horse Brewery &
beachwoodbbq.com Freehouse
Haven Craft Kitchen + Bar 10543 Pico Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90064
Beachwood BBQ 190 S Glassell St, Orange thestalkinghorsepub.com
131 ½ Main St, Seal Beach havengastropub.com
beachwoodbbq.com Strand Brewing
HopSaint Brewing Company 2201 Dominguez St, Torrance
Bluebird Brasserie Brewery & 5160 W 190th St, Torrance strandbrewing.com
Eatery hopsaint.com
13730 Ventura Blvd, Sherman Oaks Ten Mile Brewing
bluebirdbrasserie.com Ironfire Brewing Co. 1136 E Willow St, Signal Hill
42095 Zevo Dr Suite #1, Temecula tenmilebrewing.com
Bravery Brewing Company ironfirebrewing.com
42705 8th St W, Lancaster Timeless Pints
braverybrewing.com Lido Bottle Works 3671 Industry Ave C1, Lakewood
3408 Via Oporto #103, Newport Beach timelesspints.com
Brew Kitchen Ale House lidobottleworks.com
10708 Los Alamitos Blvd, Los Alamitos Unsung Brewing Co.
brewkitchenalehouse.com MacLeod Ale Brewing Co. 500 S Anaheim Blvd, Anaheim
14741 Calvert St, Van Nuys unsungbrewing.com
Brewheim macleodale.com
1931 E Wright Cir, Anaheim Ximix Craft Exploration
brewheim.com Mikkeller 13723 1/2 Harvard Pl, Gardena
330 W Olympic Blvd, Los Angeles ximixcraft.com
Brewyard Beer Company mikkellerbar.com/la
906 Western Ave, Glendale Zymurgy Brew Works & Tasting
brewyardbeercompany.com Naja’s Place Room
154 International Boardwalk, Redondo Beach 22755 Hawthorne Blvd, Torrance
Chapman Crafted Beer najasplace.com zymurgybrewworks.com
123 N Cypress St, Old Towne Orange
chapmancrafted.beerBeer Paper | MAY 2019 PAGE 17
Photo Courtesy of Lost Abbey
(SINNERS & SAINTS continued) problematic for all three tiers of the beer universe
and, ultimately, we need to break that cycle (just
SWEENEY: How does being a father and husband don’t ask me to prognosticate when or how that will
play into your career in beer, and have things occur).
changed as your daughters get older?
SWEENEY: Throughout our European travels and
ARTHUR: As the dad to two great daughters kebab tasting, what was in your experience, the
(Sydney and Lexi), I have an enormous best kebab spot and why? What factors are in this
responsibility to be present in their lives even though decision?
the brewery consumes a disproportionate amount of
my time. I have been lucky enough to be home for ARTHUR: I have searched high and low and, as
every birthday and major milestone so far. Although of today, I am sticking to my guns. The Sultans of
this can mean crazy red eye style travels, in the end, Kebap on Rue Auguste Orts just behind the Grand
it’s always worth it. When I first started this career, I Place in Brussels gets my vote (and Euros).
didn’t have a wife or kids so free time was far more
prevalent and longer days surfing after work, much It’s likely a combination of perfectly cooked chicken
more plentiful. and knowing I can stumble to my hotel from there.
SWEENEY: In the current climate, where do you SWEENEY: When you are not dealing with beer
see the future of craft beer? Can the market sustain or kebab hunting, what do you do to keep yourself
the number of breweries now, or is this the new busy?
normal? ARTHUR: The bulk of my free time is spent close
ARTHUR: The number of breweries is quite to home. That being said, I have been prepping
staggering. When you consider where we came for the 2019 Belgian Waffle Ride (which features
from. That being said, lots of them are very small in the start and finish of the ride taking place at The
their makeup and I think as long as they understand Lost Abbey). Occasionally I get to swim which
their place and scale in this volatile market, they will I love because no one can bother me in the pool
be fine. If I were to open a brewery today, I would and my iPhone is worthless there. But as you can
have a much different perspective on size and reach imagine, having a family, a business and all the
with respect to operations and real estate foot print. responsibilities that come with both are a large
Competition is everywhere and while that usually is commitment in many ways so not too much free
a good thing, consumers have a very short attention time.
span and what have you done for me lately is a SWEENEY: What one word best describes you?
challenging churn we are currently swimming in.
ARTHUR: After 23 years of being a brewer, I’m not
SWEENEY: What brewing trends/style are you retiring anytime soon. So, my one word would be
excited about? And what trends/styles do you think motivated.
need to go away?
Ryan Sweeney is one of the pioneers of the craft
ARTHUR: I’m always excited by new things that beer revolution in Los Angeles. He owns Verdugo
move the proverbial needle. Anytime I see a brewer Bar, Surly Goat, Blind Donkey and Dirty Monkey
taking a calculated risk that rewards the consumer among other world class bars. He was LA’s first-ever
in new and exciting ways, I nod appreciatively. I’ve certified Cicerone. He enjoys craft Pilsners, late
been a little bit flustered by the extreme sameness night kebabs, and obsessing over fruit trees.
that the industry is gravitating towards. I think it’sPAGE 18 MAY 2019 | Beer Paper
WISHFUL DRINKING
GOT WEIRD BEER?
CANARCHY CUP COMPETITION WANTS YOUR OFFBEAT HOMEBREW
by TOMM CARROLL
There are plenty of craft breweries
that help to sponsor already existing
official homebrew competitions and
also create a commercial version of the
winning beer to enter into the Pro-Am
competition every year at the Great
American Beer Festival in Denver.
What’s much less common is for
a brewery to launch its own Beer
Judge Certification Program (BJCP)-
sanctioned contest for homebrewers,
with the express intent of scaling
up the recipe of the Best of Show
champion to brew on its commercial
system (with the assistance of the
winning homebrewer), and packaging,
releasing and distributing the beer, as
well as entering it into the GABF Pro-
Am and other beer contests.
But that’s exactly what Three Weavers
Brewing Company is doing. The
popular four-and-a-half-year-old
Inglewood-based brewery and taproom
Three Weavers owners Lynne Weaver, left, and Alexandra Nowell Photo Courtesy of Three Weavers
amply demonstrated its motto (“It’s
more than beer, it’s community”) brewery on Saturday, June 22 and the “Our goal really is to engage a little bit • 27. Historical Beer (subcategory A:
by announcing — on April 11, the winning categories, including Best of of my background, where I started,” Gose)
final day of the annual Craft Brewers Show, will be announced Sunday, June explains Weaver, who was a longtime
Conference, held this year in Denver 23 during Three Weavers’ 2nd annual member of the Woodland Hills-based • 29. Fruit Beer (subcategories A:
— the first-ever CANarchy Cup Brewmo Sumo Pseudo Showdown, Maltose Falcons, the country’s oldest Fruit, B: Fruit and Spice, C: Fruit and
Competition. the closing day of the 10th annual LA homebrew club, before founding Three Additional Ingredients)
Beer Week. The BoS winner will also Weavers. “Also, there are not very • 31. Alternative Fermentables Beer
Named for the Fireman Capital receive a one-time royalty of $333. many opportunities for folks to brew
Partners-funded brewery collective (subcategories A: Alternative Grain, B:
on a large [30bbl] system, and it’s Alternative Sugar)
that Three Weavers became a part “I’m really excited about this worthwhile.”
of last year, the CANarchy Cup is competition,” Three Weavers co-owner • 34. Specialty Beer (subcategory C:
accepting entries from American and brewmaster Alexandra Nowell Nowell agrees, adding, “There really Experimental)
Homebrew Association (AHA) tells Beer Paper. “It’s something that isn’t any sort of homebrew-focused
members only, delivered to the Lynne [Weaver, co-owner] has wanted event for LA Beer Week and this helps “Honestly, it a good excuse to get
Inglewood brewery by Saturday, June to do for a long time. And finally, we involve beer drinkers and enthusiasts weird,” Nowell responds with a laugh
15. Judging will take place at the said, ‘Let’s do it.’” — and most homebrewers are super- when queried about the categories.
enthusiastic about what they’re doing. “Homebrewers can get super-
It just ties things together a little bit innovative and think of ideas that
more.” really don’t work on a commercial
scale. And obviously, if something
But it wouldn’t be a Three Weavers is so outlandish that it doesn’t scale
event without a clever little twist. commercially, that’s part of my job —
Instead of being open to all 34 BJCP- working with the homebrewer to make
recognized beer styles, the CANarchy it something that can be scaled up.”
Cup is limited to entries in only
five style categories (and particular The brewmaster admits that she
subcategories thereof) — and they are wants the entries to be intentionally
rather unconventional ones: offbeat. “I chose some pretty
obscure — though not real obscure
• 23. European Sour Ale Beer — categories, but they leave a lot of
(subcategory A: Berliner Weisse) room for creativity on the part of the
homebrewer,” she maintains. “I pickedBeer Paper | MAY 2019 PAGE 19
Lynne Weaver (front row, center left) and Alexandra Nowell (center right) with the Three Weavers team at the Inglewood taproom Photo Courtesy of Three Weavers
these styles based on what I want to is in August, it will be commercially
enter; it’s the Pro-Am category, where brewed and released with a launch
I think we could get more success.” party at the brewery’s taproom this
summer. “And if it wins the Pro-Am,
Regarding the Experimental beers, she we’ll brew it again and have another
comments, “That catch-all category is party!” Nowell enthuses.
a lot of fun to judge. There are things
in those beers that you’d never think The CANarchy Cup competition is
of… I remember judging that category intended to be an annual event, with
at GABF. You get that description of the judging and the announcement of
what the brewer intended, and you the winners at the Sumo Showdown
think, ‘I don’t know…’ Then you try anchoring the final weekend of LA
it, and go, ‘Wow, I was really caught Beer Week each year. But will the
off-guard, and pleasantly surprised.’ accepted style categories change for
I’m really hoping we get those kind of future contests? “I think so,” Nowell
beers entered.” posits. “Although there may be some
repeats next year.”
As the winning beer will be entered
into this year’s GABF (October 3-5), For more information, and to register
for which the submission deadline for the CANarchy Cup Competition,
please visit www.threeweavers.la/
canarchy-cup-competition.
Award-winning beer writer Tomm
Carroll, a longtime contributor to
Celebrator Beer News, was shortlisted
for a British Guild of Beer Writers
Award in 2018. He feels fortunate that
Three Weavers is his local brewery,
less than two miles from home. Contact
him at beerscribe@earthlink.net.PAGE 20 MAY 2019 | Beer Paper
YAEGER SHOTS
COOLSHIP, BRO
by BRIAN YAEGER
If you’ve never seen a coolship, and only then can the airborne yeasts and
even most diehard beer geeks haven’t, bacteria survive in this primordial ooze
it’s less exhilarating to look at when and spontaneously ferment it into beer.
empty than the name implies. Instead
of being some cool-looking ship, it’s Despite the popularity and demand
an overgrown baking pan. The name, for outstanding wild ales, few of
derived from the Flemish koelschip, these coolships exist in the US. Now,
is essentially that super huge pan joining the ranks of Allagash (the first
but instead of being used to make stateside), Jester King, and Russian
brownies, it makes Lambics. Well, in River, Firestone Walker Barrelworks
Belgium’s Senne Valley and nearby has one. And master blender Jim
it makes Lambics; when utilized in Crooks is darn tootin’ excited about it.
America they make lambic-style ales. Obviously, this doesn’t mean it’s
The coolship is filled with hot wort Barrelworks’ first sour rodeo. Crooks
and its shallow depth and large surface and company had been making sour
area allows it to cool quicker. Then, beers at the brewery in Paso Robles
rather than pitching domesticated long before they opened Barrelworks
yeasts, the liquid is in this large, open in Buellton in 2013. There’s a fear
tray doesn’t just dare but encourages when a brewery has a “clean” side
microorganisms wafting through the and a “wild” side that the critters in
atmosphere to come in and make the sour ales will get into the clean
themselves comfortable, which they ones and infect all that beer. Having
do once the wort cools down in the Barrelworks nearly 100 miles south
(hopefully chilly) night air. Then and alleviated that concern. Jim Crooks, David Walker & Beau Sorensen with the coolship
Photo Credit: Colin Nearman
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What started with over 50 barrels bacteria a healthy environment.
grew to more than 1,800—mostly Climate change is said to be imperiling
used wine casks made of French oak, global Lambic production since the
which isn’t to say American and even traditional winter and spring months
Hungarian oak isn’t represented, as are yielding fewer 40-degree temps.
well as emptied spirits barrels and For Barrelworks’ part, time will tell
all manner of vessels from foeders what becomes of Batch 1 and Batch 2
to puncheons—but this coolship and if they’ll be destined for a gueuze-
represents the next step of maturity, like blend or any level of drinkability
if not growth. A total of 16 barrels at all.
worth of wort, over two batches, have
basked in Buellton’s cool, night air this “Best case scenario, the first release
season. will be three years from now,” says
Crooks. “I’d love to do a traditional
Crooks had been lobbying for a Lambic blending of one, two, and
coolship “almost from the beginning,” three year gueuze.”
he says. “It’s what drew me to
mixed fermentation.” He cites the Asked if any of the liquid is destined
classics—Cantillon, Drie Fonteinen, for fruited Lambic-style beers, in the
Rodenbach—as his inspirations. vein of a traditional kriek a la Coolship Coolship One, Batch 1 in the making Photo Credit: Colin Nearman
But like a Lambic itself, the project Krieky Bones, Crooks demures. “I
prefer unfruited over fruited.” He the results, there’s nothing on anyone’s these experiments. But only circa
could not be rushed. And one of production schedule for this beer. No 2022, if all goes according to nature’s
the main logistical keys to pulling points to the continuing and improving
guarantee that it becomes something. plan.
it off was the opening of Firestone success of Feral One, which is
If it happens with the first couple of
Walker’s Propagator brewpub in presently a blend of barrels from the Brian Yaeger is the author of Red,
last four years. “They have more depth batches, I’ll be ecstatic. But the point
Venice. “Prior to Venice, we didn’t is to continually learn from what White, and Brew and contributed to
have anything to pull off hot wort,” as the project evolves. Because the
we’ve done. I try to stay a learner and the Oxford Companion to Beer. If he’s
says Crooks. Unsurprisingly, Evan bacterial essence of certain barrels not writing for beer publications he’s
have more depth, that beer is a stay a child.” For “Sour Jim,” this new
Partridge, the Propagator’s “Research coolship is akin to his own personal planning beer festivals. Along with
& Development Brewer,” was down quintessential blend for us. In my brain his wife and son (I.P.Yae.) he recently
there’s an imprint of Belgian gueuze STEM lab (Science, Technology,
for the cause. Now they just needed Engineering, Mathematics). What’s moved to (and is learning to surf in)
somewhere to put the dang thing. and I’m not saying that Feral One is Santa Barbara, where he’s teaching
that, but it’s my interpretation of it.” more, we all stand to benefit from
UCSB’s first beer-tasting class.
It was at this point that co-founder Those who’ve imbibed it are unlikely
David Walker fortuitously spoke up to disagree.
2.00
about a barn he planned on raising on
his property—one designed for hosting But again, this is all a best-case
%
events rather than his horses. This took scenario. Crooks is renowned for
place in 2017. The following January, his sour beers in which he attempts
to control all aspects of a style or APY1
Crooks and Partridge had designed
the recipe using a turbid mash that technique of brewing that is marked by
would become Coolship One, Batch 1 its “uncontrollableness.”
(this is the brewing company, after all,
that brought us Feral One). All they
Crooks explains, “There’s no real
assurance in terms of what might
Relationship Money Market
needed now was a brusque 40-degree happen in the next year, let alone
night. From the biting-off-too-much- the next three years. It’s a primal We bank brewers and beer lovers alike. Give
to-chew department, Lambics are said
to require this temperature to optimize
experiment with more uncontrolled us a call today to get started on growing your
wort cooling as well as to give the
variables than coordinated ones. I’m
savings or expanding your business.
fine with it. If we’re not happy with
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Firestone Walker Barrelworks Photo Credit: Colin NearmanPAGE 22 MAY 2019 | Beer Paper
FOOD PAIRINGS
HEATING THE GRILL AND COOLING DOWN
WITH LA CRAFT BEER
by TREVOR HAGSTROM & MAGGIE ROSENBERG
Beer and BBQ go together like chops are lower on smoke and fat, like tri-
and applesauce. Salty, smoky meat is tip. Hoppy beers are great to balance
ideal with beer. It’s harder to mess this sweeter, saucier BBQ, like a heavily
one up than it is to get it right. Most dressed pulled pork or Kansas City
any beer you try will mellow the salt style ribs, but only if they’re full-
and smoke of BBQ. Primarily, we bodied and malty enough. Double
think that BBQ, being such a strong IPA is better than session IPA for this.
flavor, either requires a strongly Smoked beers can be great with bbq,
flavored beer or beer that you don’t but we don’t like very smoky beer with
mind playing a background role. very smoky meat. Unless you have a
pack-a-day palate, the result match can
Spicy accents get kind of lost under be overwhelming. Scotch-style ales
the weight of BBQ, so Belgian styles are just the right amount of smoke for
and Hefeweizen aren’t our first choice. most BBQ.
Dark beers are popular with BBQ
because the astringency in roasted The most common style of grilled
malt helps cut through the fat on the BBQ that you see around the United
meat. The chocolate flavors of dark States is inspired by the Kansas City
ales complement the charred ends tradition of smoking ribs and finishing
of the meat. Barrel-aged stouts are them with a thick molasses sauce.
appropriate for gatherings and special This is the style most practiced by
occasions this summer. Lager is great home cooks and BBQ places that don’t
with BBQ suited towards cuts that have a specific specialty. Our all-time
Jocko’s Pit Photo Credit: Maggie RosenbergYou can also read
