WORLD DIAMOND MAGAZINE - SAY HELLO TO "BE OUR GUEST" - Jewellery Turkey
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WORLD WORLD DIAMOND MAGAZINE DIAMOND MAGAZINE SUMMER 2018 14 “Believe In Dreams” “BE OUR GUEST” IJS WILL BE HELD IN OCTOBER Bruce Cleaver Ceo, De Beers Group SAY HELLO TO LIGHTBOX
SUMMER | 2018 PUBLISHING GROUP JTR HEAD OFFICE JEWELLERY EXPORTERS' Altındünyası Publishing Group Dış Ticaret Kompleksi A-blok ASSOCIATION Kat:2 Çobançeşme Mevkii, Alemdar Mah. Nuruosmaniye Caddesi N: 12 Kat:3 Fatih – İstanbul Sanayi Cad. info@yayindunyasi.com Yenibosna-Bahçelievler +90 212 518 84 01 İstanbul / Türkiye TURKISH JEWELLERY EXPORTERS’ Tel: +90 212 454 00 00 D:1002 ASSOCIATION Fax: +90 212 454 00 32 in cooperation with WORLD DIAMOND MARK FOUNDATION OFFICE Şirzat Akbulak WITH THANKS TO Binbirdirek Mahallesi Editor in Chief Mustafa Kamar Dostlukyurdu Sokak Emil Güzeliş No:1Yeşil Apt D:1 Fatih / Remzi Çelen Atasay Kamer Çemberlitaş / İstanbul / Türkiye Editor Şirzat Akbulak Tel: +90 212 518 83 00 Borsa Istanbul IST Fax: +90 212 518 83 03 HRD Antwerp GEZEGEN PRINTING 100. Yıl Mh. 2. Caddesi (Matbaacılar ART + PRODUCTION Sitesi) No:100, Altındünyası Publishing Group Bağcılar - Türkiye Cemre Kocaay +90 212 325 71 25 www.gezegenbasim.com.tr WORLD DIAMOND MAGAZINE
Mustafa Kamar T rading volume of global jewellery industry keeps increasing. Jewellery trade volume in the world has Chairman of the Jewellery Exporters’ Association reached 93 billion dollars. Jewellery industry has also been progressing in Turkey. Jewellery export of Turkey has exceeded 4,1 billion USD. We are planning to increase our global share up to 10%. ‘’Jewellery=Turkey’’ motto becomes real. C We are one of the most important gold manufacturers of the M world. We have considerable cpmpetitive power in the world Y with our giant scaled factories, trained human resources and manufacturing quality. It is very easy for foreigners to start a CM company in Turkey. You can take a direct flight to every corner MY of the world with Turkish Airlines. You won’t have trouble with visa in our country. You can become a member of precious CY metals market, take advantage of tax exemption in jewellery CMY trade. In Kuyumcukent, the biggest manufactury complex K of the world, you can reach more than 1000 manufacturers under the same roof. We have the richest mounter stock in the world. You can carry out the diamond jewellery manufacturing process in its entirety in Istanbul. More than 200 foreign companies started to operate in Turkey to benefit from the advantages provided in Turkey. Turkey started to become the trade center of gold in the world. ‘’Jewellery=Turkey’’ motto becomes real. We invite you to witness the change in development in Turkey. Our government supports this industry as well. With the support of Ministry of Economy, we host more than 1200 foreign potential buyers in our fairs in Istanbul for free. Turkish Airlines applies special discounts for foreign buyers. We invite you to Istanbul Jewellery Show in October to witness the improvement of Jewellery industry in Turkey.
WORLD DIAMOND NEWS CONTENTS MAGAZINE 8 BRUCE CLEAVER CEO, DE BEERS GROUP SAY HELLO TO LIGHTBOX “BELIEVE IN DREAMS” 26 22 TURKEY IS LEADING THE MOUNTING IN THE WORLD 6 World Diamond Magazine | June 2018-14
18 20 FOREVERMARK UNVEILS NEW RECREATES HISTORICAL HIGH JEWELLERY NECKLACE FOR RETAIL CONCEPT STORE IN CHINA OCEAN’S 8 FOCUSED ON MILLENNIALS 42 ISTANBUL GLITTERED WITH ALL JEWELRY OF THE WORLD 56 VAT CHARGES REMOVED ON GOLD AT WHOLESALE LEVEL June 2018-14 | World Diamond Magazine 7
WORLD DIAMOND MAGAZINE NEWS DE BEERS GROUP TO LAUNCH NEW FASHION JEWELRY BRAND WITH LABORATORY-GROWN DIAMONDS LIGHTBOX D e Beers Group diamonds in a selection of product of technology, and a deep understanding of what announced the accessibly-priced earring and as we’ve seen with synthetic consumers want, Lightbox launch of a new necklace designs. sapphires, rubies and brings innovation and a company called emeralds, as the technology commitment to transparency Lightbox Jewelry that will “Lightbox will transform the advances, products become to the lab-grown diamond begin marketing a new brand lab-grown diamond sector more affordable. After sector,” added Steve Coe, of laboratory-grown diamond by offering consumers a decades of R&D investment, General Manager, Lightbox jewelry under the Lightbox lab-grown product they have we’re able to offer consumers Jewelry. “We’ve learned name in September, offering told us they want but aren’t a better price today. While from our research that there consumers high-quality, getting: affordable fashion it will be a small business is a lot of confusion about fashion jewelry designs at jewelry that may not be compared with our core lab-grown diamonds – what lower prices than existing lab- forever, but is perfect for right diamond business, we think they are, how they differ from grown diamond offerings. now,” said Bruce Cleaver, the Lightbox brand will diamonds, and how they are CEO, De Beers Group. “Our resonate with consumers valued. Lightbox will be clear Lightbox lab-grown extensive research tells us and provide a new, with consumers about what diamonds will retail from this is how consumers regard complementary commercial lab-grown diamonds are and US$200 for a quarter-carat lab-grown diamonds – as opportunity for De Beers will offer straightforward stone to US$800 for a one- a fun, pretty product that Group.” pricing that is consistent with carat stone. The line will shouldn’t cost that much – so the true cost of production. bring something new and we see an opportunity here “Lightbox Jewelry offers innovative to the jewelry that’s been missed by lab- consumers something new: “We will introduce more sector, featuring pink, grown diamond producers. sparkle and colors, at a very designs and colors as the blue and white lab-grown Lab-grown diamonds are a accessible price. In addition to range evolves, and the 10 World Diamond Magazine | June 2018-14
Our extensive research tells us this is how consumers regard lab-grown diamonds – as a fun, pretty product that shouldn’t cost that much – so we see an opportunity here that’s been missed by lab-grown diamond producers. technological efficiency of A subsidiary of De Beers magnification, the logo will operational, the plant will be our proprietary production Group, Lightbox will be the clearly identify the stone as capable of producing upwards process means we will always only jewelry brand to source lab-grown and also serve as a of 500,000 rough carats of offer Lightbox at accessible lab-grown diamonds from mark of quality and assurance lab-grown diamonds a year. prices,” Mr. Coe noted. De Beers Group’s Element that it was produced by Six business, a world leader Element Six. For more information, Lightbox will launch in in lab-grown diamond visit www.lightboxjewelry. the US and will initially technology for more than To support Lightbox, De com. be available to US-based 50 years. Any Lightbox Beers Group is investing a consumers through the total of US$94 million over Notes lab-grown diamonds of 0.2 Lightbox e-commerce carats or above will carry four years in a new Element All Lightbox lab-grown website, with retail a permanent Lightbox Six production facility near diamonds are sold as part partnerships to be announced logo inside the stone. Portland, Oregon, adding to of finished jewelry. Prices in due course. Invisible to the naked eye Element Six’s existing UK- quoted do not include cost of but easily identified under based facilities. Once fully setting. About De Beers Group De Beers Group is a member of the Anglo American plc group. Established in 1888, De Beers Group is the world’s leading diamond company with expertise in the exploration, mining and marketing of diamonds. Together with its joint venture partners, De Beers Group employs more than 20,000 people across the diamond pipeline and is the world’s largest diamond producer by value, with mining operations in Botswana, Canada, Namibia and South Africa. As part of the company’s operating philosophy, the people of De Beers Group are committed to ‘Building Forever’ by making a lasting contribution to the communities in which they live and work, and transforming natural resources into shared national wealth. For further information about De Beers Group, visit www.debeersgroup.com. About Lightbox Jewelry Lightbox is an innovative new company offering consumers fashion jewelry featuring high quality, pink, white, and blue laboratory-grown diamonds at transparent and accessible prices. Lightbox is the only brand that sources lab-grown diamonds from Element Six, the world’s leading lab-grown diamond producer, based in Oxford, England, and built on more than 50 years of ground-breaking innovation. Learn more about Lightbox at www.lightboxjewelry.com.
WORLD DIAMOND MAGAZINE NEWS Sergey Ivanov, CEO - ALROSA “We are not planning to change our strategy, integrate in the new market (synthetic product market) and launch our own synthetic production, or sell Atilla Anlı Stephane Fischler lab-grown diamonds. It is obvious Acting President of the World Dia- that ALROSA as a diamond producer Atilla Karat Jewellery mond Council and one of the founders of Diamond The discussion of Lab-Grown Producers Association (DPA) diamonds’ future is one of the most “Apart from the disruptive hopes that this initiative will lead nature of the move in a separate important topics of global jewelry to differentiation of diamonds and category, it changes nothing for industry at recent years. The global synthetic stones, underlining the status an increasing need to position and of synthetics as a distinct low-price jewelry industry has been discussing secure diamonds as an unique product. However, we can’t deny that about positioning of the lab-grown and exceptional store of value. there is a chance that it will increase diamond on the market, and we It remains to be seen how far the demand for synthetic stones and think that this discussion will and wide this ‘disruption’ will cause the devaluation of a diamond continue. De Beers’ step on this side impact the industry and all those as a notion.” Sergey Ivanov, CEO seems to have significantly reduced - ALROSA, quoted by Interfax news the question marks on this subject. I involved.” Stephane Fischler – agency. think that the positioning strategies Acting President of the World Diamond Council, by request. of lab-grown diamonds and natural diamonds on the market will become clear in medium and long term. The point we need to focus on is the rising of jewelry demand. As the biggest producer of jewelry mounting category of the world, we approve some positive developments in this area. 12 World Diamond Magazine | June 2018-14
Ronny Verlinden President of International Diamond Rob Bates Manufacturers Association JCK News Director Jean-Marc Lieberherr “This new initiative could be seen as De “De Beers’ decision to enter CEO - Diamond Producers Beers embracing the doctrine of self- this market segment is not Association (DPA) cannibalization. Says Harvard Business necessarily bad news. By defining Review: ‘Forward-looking incumbents “The DPA has always been clear LGDs as belonging to what we recognize the need to cannibalize their that more fair and transparent can broadly name the fashion own products, rather than leaving it to practices need to be adopted by jewelry market segment, we’re other startups, who are more than happy finally seeing how the market is to take on the challenge.’ … But it would synthetic diamond producers. We differentiating between diamonds be truly shocking… if De Beers ever sold are very confident that Element lab-grown bridal. Engagement rings Six will set a new standard in and LGDs. Differentiation also are the heart of the diamond business. disclosure and marketing of means different pricing. I expect So even though De Beers doesn’t like it synthetic diamonds, which will - and note that I am not the only when lab-grown companies target the in the end benefit consumers and one who has been contending this engagement market, this may force them bring much needed clarity to this for quite a while now - that the to do so more than ever … That’s not the price difference between diamonds only risk. Lightbox could potentially hurt new category. It is clear from the the market for low-end Indian goods, Lightbox positioning that they and LGDs will continue to widen, which are mostly used in fashion price- will market synthetic diamonds to the benefit of diamonds.” point items … Lightbox also gives the for what they are – low cost pretty Ronny Verlinden - President lab-grown category a lot more industry stones and not for what they are of International Diamond cred … De Beers’ announcement may not – real diamonds, rare, precious Manufacturers Association, open give lab-grown diamonds the final push letter to industry. toward complete industry acceptance. But and inherently valuable.” Jean- that’s just bowing to the inevitable. It was Marc Lieberherr, CEO - Diamond headed that way anyway … De Beers’ Producers Association (DPA) press decision to start a lab-grown line is, all release. in all, a fascinating, bold, though clearly risky development. The thinking seems to be, ‘if you can’t kill it, join it.’” Rob Bates - JCK News Director, from his article, “With New Lab-Grown Line, Is De Beers Embracing Self-Cannibalization?” June 2018-14 | World Diamond Magazine 13
WORLD DIAMOND MAGAZINE NEWS Paul Zimnisky Independent Analyst “This was a move to stop the lab-created industry in its tracks and take over control. I think Edahn Golan, this is the biggest industry news Independent Analyst since De Beers moved its offices from London to Gaborone.” Paul James AH Campbell, “De Beers are fighting the lab- Zimnisky - Independent analyst Managing Director grown (LG) producers by using an and author of Paul Zimnisky Botswana Diamonds age-old Silicon Valley approach - Diamond Analytics, by request. disruption. They are disrupting the “As a long-time employee of disrupters. The strategy behind it is De Beers and being Nicky very interesting. From a marketing Oppenheimer’s first Personal perspective [emphasizing design, Assistant when he was executive taking 4Cs out of the equation & chairman of De Beers, I was simple pricing] this is devilishly initially taken aback as superficially clever. It provides a fashion item at this seemed to contradict the a very reasonable cost. But it does ‘Real is Rare’ heart of the De not end there, because it certainly Beers business model. However, turns the LG discussion on its on greater reflection, the synthetic head – no longer is the price of the stones are still small and bridal diamond attached to naturals … clients will be able to make their It will set the record straight by choice when buying the 1ct creating differentiation, and that traditional sizes and this is no makes perfect sense. Many of the different to for example pearls. LG producers are ‘incidental’ Moreover, De Beers are well producers focused on producing placed to focus at the top end of industrial goods. Others, fully the (natural) diamond market focused on gem-quality LG, will where synthetics do not play. In need to rethink their strategy: summary, it is a smart move and lower prices and offer a value may well remove many players proposition that will make from synthetics producers.” James them attractive.” Edahn Golan, AH Campbell, Managing Director independent analyst, from his - Botswana Diamonds plc, by blog - “Lightbox: Disrupting the request. Disruptors and Evolving.” 14 World Diamond Magazine | June 2018-14
WORLD DIAMOND MAGAZINE NEWS Element Six will set a new standard The Board of the Diamond Producers Association acknowledges the decision of De Beers Group to enter the synthetic diamond market through its subsidiary Element Six. The DPA’s objective is to promote long-term demand for diamonds as unique miracles of nature. The DPA Board, its members and its team remain fully dedicated to this important mission. C M Y CM MY CY CMY K S J tephen Lussier, Association is stronger ean-Marc Lieberherr, diamonds, which will in Chairman of the DPA than ever. I am looking CEO of the DPA the end benefit consumers and Executive Vice forward to working with commented on the and bring much needed President of Marketing my fellow DPA Board announcement: “The clarity to this new category. for De Beers Group, members and with the DPA has always been It is clear from the commented: “De Beers DPA team for many years clear that more fair and Lightbox positioning that Group’s commitment to to come on the promotion transparent practices need they will market synthetic the Diamond Producers of the Diamond Dream.” to be adopted by synthetic diamonds for what they diamond producers. We are – low cost pretty stones are very confident that and not for what they are Element Six will set a new not – real diamonds, rare, standard in disclosure and precious and inherently marketing of synthetic valuable.” 16 World Diamond Magazine | June 2018-14
Recreates Historical High Jewellery Necklace For Ocean’s 8 As the movie’s exclusive jewellery partner, the Maison created the “Toussaint” necklace to play a pivotal role in the hotly anticipated addition to the “Ocean’s” franchise
O cean’s 8 sees included the 136.25-carat The necklace pays tribute oxides mounted in white the female Queen of Holland to Jeanne Toussaint, gold. crew attempt diamond. Cartier’s 20th century a seemingly Creative Director who In addition to the impossible heist at New While the original was the driving force “Toussaint”, the Cartier York’s star-studded annual necklace no longer exists, behind some of their most Mansion at New York’s Met Gala with the target the design drawing and recognisable designs. It is Fifth Avenue is the being the “Toussaint”, photographs still remain worn by Anne Hathaway in location of several major a legendary diamond in Cartier’s archives. the film and was reduced scenes and other jewellery necklace made by Cartier When the Maison was by 15 to 20 percent of collections from the that in real life is a replica approached to create the its original size to fit the Maison were loaned for of a piece originally necklace for the film’s actress (as it was originally those making cameo created in 1931. heist, they mobilised their designed for a man). In appearances in the film. very best jewellers at the the film the “Toussaint” Designed by Jacques High Jewellery workshops Set for release on 21 June, is comprised of white Cartier for the Maharaja in Paris to accomplish the it sounds like Ocean’s colourless diamonds with of Nawanagar, the original feat in just eight weeks 8 is worth watching for the coloured diamonds necklace featured cascades and send the jewel to New the stunning jewels alone. replaced with zirconium of coloured diamonds that York. June 2018-14 | World Diamond Magazine 19
WORLD DIAMOND MAGAZINE NEWS FOREVERMARK UNVEILS NEW RETAIL CONCEPT STORE IN CHINA FOCUSED ON MILLENNIALS Forevermark, the diamond brand from De Beers Group, announced the launch of Libert’aime by Forevermark, a new flagship store at HKRI Taikoo Hui in Shanghai. The opening marks the 1,000th Forevermark store in China, and comes as the brand celebrates its 10-year anniversary in the country. 20 World Diamond Magazine | June 2018-14
“Forevermark will still continue to focus on its classic bridal and non-bridal collections with our valued Forevermark retail partners, while Libert’aimeTM by Forevermark will concentrate on providing a complementary offer to excite Millennials.” C reated to Millennial preferences. containing fancy-cut and more fashion-forward celebrate the The omnichannel multi-diamond pieces. consumer in mind, who spirit of a new experience combines might just be starting generation the Libert’aimeTM by Stephen Lussier, CEO, their diamond journey. of women who are Forevermark flagship Forevermark, said: strong, unique, and store, online platforms “We are delighted to be “Forevermark will still authentic, Libert’aime by and the launch of a launching an exciting continue to focus on its Forevermark offers a WeChat store on China’s new retail concept in classic bridal and non- diamond jewellery range leading social media China, Libert’aime by bridal collections with that has been designed platform. Forevermark, which our valued Forevermark with a young, fashion- brings together an retail partners, forward self-purchasing The physical store innovative in-store while Libert’aime by consumer in mind. includes a number offering with online Forevermark will of innovative, digital and social channels to concentrate on providing Pioneering a new retail experiences, including provide customers with a complementary offer to concept, Libert’aime by a 3D diamond wall and a highly engaging and excite Millennials.” Forevermark is designed a ‘Magic Mirror’ where personalised buying to appeal to the 420 consumers can instantly experience. We recognise Libert’aime by million Millennials share their favourite that our consumer Forevermark will also in China though an pieces with friends and continues to evolve and, include a new collection omnichannel model that family. In addition, it with Libert’aime by called LE LIGHT designed offers a contemporary, includes a ‘Diamond Bar’ Forevermark, we are by Timmy Xu Weizhou, highly interactive and where daily diamond thrilled to be offering a rising star in China’s engaging consumer jewellery can be found a diamond jewellery acting and music scene. experience that is and a ‘Spectacular range that has been designed to appeal to Diamonds’ area designed with a younger, June 2018-14 | World Diamond Magazine 21
WE OWN THE LARGEST MOUNTING COLLECTION OF THE WORLD
Increasing jewelry demand will also affect the demand for jewelry mounting category. That’s why the jewelry industry is following closely Turkey, the world’s largest mounting manufacturer. Following the reforms, many companies over the world have begun to carry out every step of the gems production in Turkey. W orld giant industry. The montage mounted position. At the hold advantages in mounting, De Beers has category is the leading same time the world’s richest but also in each phase of announced one. While this strategy of stocks of ready assembled the production of diamond that it will De Beers continues to be in Turkey. For many years, jewelry. Every process such start selling diamonds discussed in the world jewelry our expertise in this area as installation, polishing and developed in the laboratory industry, the industry focuses continues to produce certification takes place in environment. LG Diamond, on the montage category. extremely rich designs. Many Istanbul. Many companies see to be sold under the Lightbox One of the countries that jewelry manufacturers in the the advantages of this world brand, will be sold at a price benefit most from these world purchase mounting began to build the Diamond of 800 USD per carat. The developments is likely to be from Turkey. jewelery production in Turkey. decision of De Beers caused Turkey. Turkey is the world’s discussions in the world largest producer of diamonds Each production phase Diamond market will grow by jewelry industry. When mounted in position. South carried out in Turkey being divided after this step of evaluating the generalities Korea ranks second following De Beers. On the one hand, Important structural reforms the position of the natural of these discussions, the Turkey. have been carried out in diamonds in the market will following conclusion arises: Mr. Mustafa Kamar, President Turkey in recent years. The rise, and on the other side, the De Beers’ marketing efforts in of Jewelry Exporters’ Diamond Exchange was demands of the LG diamonds this area will increase jewelry Association, said that founded and actively started will also increase. As a result, demand in the medium and they anticipate that these to operate. Tax rates have been the demand for mounting long term. developments will create set to zero. You do not pay will also increase. At this The increase in demand in significant momentum in any tax if you bring stones to point, I want to emphasize this category is expected the world jewelry industry. Turkey and mount there and the advantages of Turkey in to affect different areas “Turkey is the world’s largest export in the form of diamond mounting category and invite of activity in the jewelry diamond producer in the jewelry. Turkey does not only jewelry companies to Turkey. June 2018-14 | World Diamond Magazine 23
WORLD DIAMOND MAGAZINE NEWS The effects of the reforms is noticeable through the interest shown by the foreign companies. Whether it being Istanbul, Las Vegas, Vicenza, Dubai and other countries, Turkish mounting companies are receiving more and more attention every fair. So what kind of advantages One of world’s largest gold Gürkan Merim / Model Barış Lek / Sina Mounting Turkey has! production complexes, Mounting Kuyumcukent’s foreign Turkey diamond is the leader Istanbul Precious Stones company number is exceeding We have been manufacturing in the world in mounting Exchange Was Founded 100. diamond studs for many category. We observe this years in our factory. We are situation in many foreign Just like centers of jewelry Dubai Tax Policy Change the one of Turkey’s oldest trade fairs that we participate. industry Antwerp and firms in this area. Our We have very large mounting Tel Aviv, precious stone The change in Dubai’s tax factory is performing every stocks. Turkey has thousands exchange was put into action policy opened up Turkey’s phase of diamond jewelry of years of experience in the in Istanbul as well. Many chance to become a center production and delivering jewelry field. Expert and companies in precious stones in global gold and precious our products to both valuable masters work hard in got included in the exchange stone market. This is why Turkey and all over the our factories. . Company number and many companies are turning world with HRD Antwerp volume of transactions are to Istanbul. A lot of the certificate. Ömer Faruk Cağlar / increasing every day. trade done in surrounding Somoro countries is slowly flowing Mustafa Akın / Sade Is Private Consumption Tax through Istanbul. Turkey continues to grow was Zeroed We are a company rapidly in the mounting All these things are key focused on the category category. We are ahead of Precious Stone Exchange factors for development of montage. Sade Is is one South Korea which ranks member companies are of the gold and diamond of the most established after us. We continue excluded from Private jewelry groups. The effects companies in this area. to evolve thanks to tax Consumption Tax. With of the reforms is noticeable We are closely following reforms in our country. The this they are also excluded through the interest shown the world jewelry trends. establishment of the Diamond from taxes in precious stone by the foreign companies. We can respond to Exchange also affected us exchanges. Whether it being Istanbul, almost every kind of positively. No more taxes Las Vegas, Vicenza, Dubai design. In our factory, we are paid for precious stones Foundation of Foreign and other countries, Turkish manufacture montage at from abroad. There is no tax Companies is Easier mounting companies are the highest standards. We when the precious stones are With the changes done in receiving more and more export a very important assembled in our country Turkish Trade Law it is now attention every fair. Turkish part of our production. and exported as jewels. Thus, fairly easy for foreigners to companies are very satisfied We are cooperating with many foreign companies now found a company in Turkey. with this activity. jewelers around the produce diamonds in our world. country. 24 World Diamond Magazine | June 2018-14
Turkey is leading jewelry mounting manufacturer of the world. Turkish companies creates thausands of new models every year.
Tiffany & Co. Debuts 2018 “Believe In Dreams” Campaign With Modern Remake Of The Classic Song “Moon River,” Featuring A$Ap Ferg And Elle Fanning Introducing the Tiffany Paper Flowers™ Jewelry Collection Tiffany & Co. unveils its nod to the opening scene from “Believe in Dreams” campaign, the 1961 classic film, Breakfast and debut of the new Tiffany at Tiffany’s. Her reality then Paper Flowers™ jewelry transforms into a dreamlike collection, infused with an rush of music and color flooding unexpected combination of the streets of New York to the incredible talent. soundtrack of a reimagined “Moon River,” featuring The campaign film opens with Fanning’s ethereal vocals with American actress Elle Fanning original lyrics by New York City appearing in black and white native and hip hop artist A$AP as she peers into the Fifth Ferg. Avenue flagship windows, a June 2018-14 | World Diamond Magazine 27
WORLD DIAMOND MAGAZINE NEWS Tiffany gives its hometown a jolt of unexpected joy with pop- up installations in its iconic color for the launch of Tiffany Paper Flowers™ and the debut of its spring campaign Diamonds…Platinum…Surprise Bodegas will have buckets of paper black and white. In the days leading up Performances…But First: Coffee. flowers, and some subway stations will to the “Believe In Dreams” launch, they even receive a Tiffany Blue® treatment will come to new life with bold hues To celebrate the launch of the new and dispense limited-edition Tiffany and a full look at the new campaign. Tiffany Paper Flowers™ jewelry collection & Co. MetroCards. The famous Atlas Fans from around the world can join and the upcoming “Believe In Dreams” clock at the Fifth Avenue flagship store on May 3 and view in real-time on campaign, the brand brings a jolt of will transform into a digital screen with Tiffany & Co. Facebook Live, beginning energy to New York City streets with behind-the-scenes footage and vignettes at 9:00PM EDT, including a special Tiffany Blue® coffee carts, serving from the campaign film. live performance at the Fifth Avenue complimentary special brews and Flagship store. croissants beginning on May 1. Taxis The official @tiffanyandco Instagram will transform from signature yellow to account will vanish on April 28 in Visit Google Maps to view all activation robin’s egg blue, with BMX bikers and preparation for the launch, and the posts locations. skateboarders staging freestyle tricks. on other social channels will appear in 28 World Diamond Magazine | June 2018-14
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WORLD DIAMOND MAGAZINE NEWS CREATIVITY, MARKET, NEW INDUSTRIAL POLICIES FOR JEWELLERY OROAREZZO CLOSES WITH POSITIVES SIGNS OF REVIVAL IN THE SECTOR O ROAREZZO, the the total) of which 450 were The Show’s trend confirms the Minister for Infrastructure and Show that promotes international hosted buyers validity of the decision to unite Transport, Senator Riccardo the best Made in from 60 countries hosted with Italian gold-jewellery events Nencini, who outlined the Italy Gold jewellery the support of the Ministry under the single management policies to support the industry production, confirms the for Economic Development of Italian Exhibition Group. and Made in Italy in his sector’s optimal trend and and ICE (Italian Trade The Group now represents greetings. closes positively. At the stands Agency). Visitors were able almost all the Italian jewellery in Arezzo Fiere e Congressi, to see and admire the high production chain and, The programme of from 5th to 8th May, the level manufacturing of over from VICENZAORO to appointments and events was Show, the second organized by 600 brands, mostly Italian, OROAREZZO, from VOD (in extremely full. Among these, Italian Exhibition Group S.p.A. representing all the main joint venture with Dubai World a special mention goes to the (IEG), recorded a significant Italian gold districts. 75% Trade Centre) up to the various Premiere 2018 contest, which increase in international buyer of the exhibitors were Gold events in partnership with the awarded 12 companies and attendance and confirmed the jewellery companies, 13% United States and Asia, is the assigned two special prizes excellent number of visitors machinery producers and 12% one single trade show platform to just as many historical and exhibitors of the previous exhibited in the cash & carry thus making the exhibition companies. Beppe Angiolini, edition. area. Companies especially provider group the interlocutor Creative Director of the Show highlighted an increase of reference for the Italian and Honorary President of the The numbers at this edition of in business meetings that jewellery industry in the world. Italian Chamber of Buyers, had OROAREZZO indeed confirm ended positively, confirming decided to entitle this edition pre-show expectations: 15,000 the favourable climate and On the opening day, the role “The power of Love”. The visitors with a significant +5% recovery after a particularly of the Arezzo district and various contending companies increase in foreign traders difficult period for the sector. Tuscany was affirmed with put themselves to the test in (now representing 48% of the participation of Vice two categories linked to the 30 World Diamond Magazine | June 2018-14
75% of the exhibitors were Gold jewellery companies, 13% machinery producers and 12% exhibited in the cash & carry area. bracelet: one dedicated to the gold/iron concept and the other to creativity devoted What they say about us: the exhibitors. and western Europe. Ours is a classic and to the concept of love. GIORDINI Siro Serafini: “We mostly always current production. Maintaining the target the Arabian and North African bond with Arezzo gold tradition, we always Lastly, on the economic progress front, the markets which mainly tend to favour try to intercept new international customers Show days at OROAREZZO confirmed classic jewellery. The style studied is in order to explore new markets, attempting the awakening moment. 2017 was a year of Arabesque and Baroque with light yet at the same time to consolidate our presence recovery and the first few months of 2018 showy elements. We found an excellent in Italy. As we expected, this Show was the confirm and reinforce this trend. Based on response to our expectations particularly ideal context for doing just that. During these findings, processed on Istat figures, published in regard to our markets of interest. Show days, we concluded significant orders in January by Italian Exhibition Group’s Besides the usual customers, other buyers and we are satisfied.” Business Strategy Department Gold-Jewellery from parts of the world that were not on Sector Observatory and confirmed in April, FALCINELLI Fabrizio Falcinelli: “The gold our programme also came to visit us.” Italian exports recorded a 12% increase in and diamond line works very well and here, value for fine and costume jewellery together ADALTERA Lucio Marraghini “We in Arezzo, we also premiered our new silver (12.7% for precious metals alone, which also worked well with our customers from collections because they represent one of saw a 6% growth in quantity). European countries and the Arabian and our modern ideas this year. Our markets of American markets. The period is exactly reference are the Asian and American ones The sector’s total turnover index in 2017 right, May is an important month and this and we try to create targeted collections grew by an average of 8.9% compared to Show is always a certainty.” that respond to the needs of each country. 2016. Specifically: the average turnover index The Show was positive for us, we did solid linked to domestic demand increased by MARIA DE TONI Maria De Toni: “We business and the organization was effective 5.6% while the average turnover index for have a large number of foreign customers, and extremely on hand.” foreign demand grew by 10.5%. Lastly, the especially from Israel, United Arab average production index in 2017 increased Emirates, Azerbaijan and the United What they say about us: the buyers. by 15.6%. States. For this reason, this year we decided Tony Acquaviva - METAL MARKETPLACE to bring an art deco collection to the INTERNATIONAL, USA - “The Show On a worldwide scale, consumer trends in Show with numerous and highly colourful has grown a lot in recent years. Here we 2017 grew by +6%. This factor is mainly to natural stones in pastel shades. are looking for quality that you, in Italy, be attributed to a recovery in consumption in know how to decline in different styles and India which was up by +32%. Excellent rates We met many buyers and our agendas always with new technologies. Our market were also recorded in Russia (+14%), UAE were totally full on every day of the Show. awards jewellery that, even if large in size, (+10%) and USA (+3%). China, the second We believe that this trade show, which has contained weight and therefore also a destination country, however, registered a represents Made in Italy, is an important contained price. We saw some extremely trend level of -6%, while drops were also event for uniting jewellery companies, which interesting things and made some important documented in Great Britain (-14%), Egypt is what IEG has been doing over the last few contacts, as well as having concluded several (-17%) and Saudi Arabia (- 24%). In all years.” orders.” the other nations monitored, demand for jewellery was substantially stable compared UNOAERRE Alessandro Boni: “The core of Vasco Caryan, - OROGRANDE, USA - to 2016. our jewellery company aims at international “Our clientele spans the whole of America. markets, especially those in the Middle East June 2018-14 | World Diamond Magazine 31
WORLD DIAMOND MAGAZINE NEWS What my customers in Armenia are looking for are very large and showy items, imaginative and with particular designs. Rings and bracelets mainly in silver and not coloured.” Despite the valuable role of digital, the world but the Italian ones are those that I Sadiq Saboolawala – GOLDEN POINT physical presence at trade show events prefer because the design and the quality of JEWELLERY LDT, Dubai - “Dubai is the continues to be extremely important for Italian manufacturing are inimitable. door to the Middle East and South Asia, developing new business. My clientele therefore the styles we are looking for favours more classic objects and shapes but What my customers in Armenia are are many and varied. I really appreciate this year, I came with my daughter in order looking for are very large and showy items, OROAREZZO because the majority of to meet a younger target. Here we found imaginative and with particular designs. jewellery manufacturing is gathered excellent offers for both categories.” Rings and bracelets mainly in silver and not together in a small space. This year, I coloured.” found an explosion of colours: we will Tatiana Klishina - ETALON STYLE, Russia offer them to our customers and see if - “I come willingly to Arezzo because the Emad Luftallah – GOLDENLINE they are to their liking.” Show is full of proposals and content and JEWELLERY, Dubai - “Italy is the best the stands are welcoming and reserved. place to find creativity. The Italian product Elsa Pui Kwan Li – HANG FAT INT’L We do good business. We are interested is more expensive compared to that of JEWELLWRY LTD, China - “This year in the final product and semi-processed other countries but here you can always in China, there is great attention to goods and here we find both. I made a lot find new models, excellent quality and the cost of jewellery, therefore what we of orders. The style that our customers are items always in line with the dictates of were mainly looking for were silver and asking for this summer involves geometric fashion. Arezzo is necessary because there stones. Here in Arezzo, we always look shapes, many colours, large and small is too big a gap between VICENZAORO for new ideas, we don’t necessarily visit shapes but nothing too showy nor too January and VICENZAORO September the same companies, but we always minimal.” and an event in-between is needed to find others. We bought a lot because refurbish our customers with jewellery for Italian creativity and quality are highly Armen Badal Yan - SEMASE JEWELLERY, the summer.” sought.” Armenia - “I go to many shows all over the ITALIAN EXHIBITION GROUP S.p.A. Italian Exhibition Group S.p.A., with the two expo centres of Rimini and Vicenza, is Italy’s first trade fair organizer for profitability and expo portfolio (regarding the Food & Beverage, Green, Technology, Entertainment, Tourism, Transport, Wellness, Jewellery & Fashion, Lifestyle & Innovation trades). IEG operates worldwide, with branches in the United Arab Emirates, Brazil, United States and China. It is Italy’s leader in the conference-convention sector with Rimini’s Palacongressi and Vicenza Convention Centre. www.iegexpo.it AREZZO FIERE E CONGRESSI Arezzo Fiere e Congressi Srl, the company whose stakeholders include the Tuscany Region, Arezzo Chamber of Commerce, Arezzo Council and Province, credit institutions and over 300 jewellery companies, with a capital of Euro 40.8 million, is presided over by Andrea Boldi. For 39 years the company has been organizing the OROAREZZO Show - now managed by IEG as part of the IEG Jewellery Agenda - which recorded about 650 exhibiting companies in 2017 from all the Italian gold-silver districts. The congress facility has a Congress Centre Auditorium with seating for 950 and was designed by the GMP Studio in Hamburg. The company has organized cultural initiatives and workshops in prestigious locations in the United States, Canada, United Kingdom, Spain, Belgium, Japan, China, Hong Kong, Chile and Argentina. 32 World Diamond Magazine | June 2018-14
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S ome 2,400 industry diamond industry during professionals sluggish trading period, attended the and the Bonas Polished first day of the Diamond Tender during the specialized diamond trade show, featuring 163 lots with fair, CARAT+, opened a total weight of more than ceremoniously by model 1,700 carats, should raise the and actress Elizabeth Hurley trading profile of the event. in Antwerp, followed by a surprise parade of vintage Elizabeth Hurley wore most exceptional diamonds, how the rest of our show cars crusing through the Cascade collection jewels fancy color diamonds and progresses. I would like show. The number of by CARAT+ exhibitor colored gemstones on to thank the wonderful visitors easily surpassed Roberto Coin, and was led display. CARAT+ Event Elizabeth Hurley, all our expectations for only the on a guided tour of the Director Filip Van Laere exhibitors, visitors, special second edition of the trade show floor after cutting said: “The second edition guests and team members show, the organizers said. the ceremonial ribbon, of CARAT+ has so far been who made CARAT+ Night It will provide a welcome visiting leading exhibitors a phenomenal success and the talk of Antwerp and the boost to the Antwerp and discovering some of the I look forward to seeing entire diamond sector.” June 2018-14 | World Diamond Magazine 35
WORLD DIAMOND MAGAZINE NEWS A fter seven this year’s show had been René Kamm, CEO of POSITIVE FEEDBACK successful days, two days shorter than the MCH Group, gave a FROM THE EXHIBITORS Baselworld, the previous editions, the overall favourable outlook: “I believe Leading exhibitors were world’s most number ofvisitors remained that Baselworld’s present likewise very satisfied with important show for watches, unchanged. The new format, dimensions with 650 brands this year’s show. For example, jewellery and gemstones, fewer exhibitors and shorter are optimal. We now have a Rolex’s CEO Jean-Frédéric closed the doors of the 2018 duration, was positively tailwind for 2019.” Dufour said: “We are very edition yesterday evening. received. happy with this year’s edition At the closing press For the next edition, the of Baselworld. Our new conference, Baselworld’s All leading brands will show will also work on products were extremely well Managing Director Sylvie exhibit at Baselworld 2019. new developments. The received by our clients and Ritter summarised that this Definitive commitments management will work closely the press. This annual event year’s edition proved to be have been received from with exhibitors to define new remains a ‘must’ for the Swiss successful. An overwhelming Rolex, Swatch Group, Patek formats for the various sectors. watch industry, its evolution majority of the exhibitors Philippe, LVMH, Chopard, These new formats will offer and its dynamism, which reported very satisfactory Breitling, Chanel and many medium-sized businesses a was proven by the strong business results. Although other brands. presence at Basewlorld in line participation and the avid with their needs. 36 World Diamond Magazine | June 2018-14
All leading brands will exhibit at Baselworld 2019. enthusiasm. We are looking forward to Chopard’s Co-President Karl-Friedrich our most important trade show because Baselworld 2019!” Scheufele said: “Baselworld remains we are present in 60 countries with one of the most important networking 400 points of sale. Baselworld offers us Patek Philippe’s President Thierry Stern opportunities for our group. It opportunities to see our customers and agrees: “NNe are very satisfied with the represents a unique window to meet agents from around the globe.” positive feedback that our new products our international business and media for 2018 received from our partners in partners in a very condensed time For Maria Carola Picchiotti, who is the specialised trade and from the press. frame. We felt the overall mood was a member ofthe Picchiotti family, This year will surely be a very positive very positive and the level ofbusiness “Baselworld is the world’s leading one and will be characterised by strong conducted highly satisfactory.” jewellery show, where one meets all of dynamism in all our markets. the relevant partners in the specialised François Thiébaud, President of the Swiss trade and media representatives. Jean-Claude Biver, President of LVMH Exhibitors’ Committee, said: “Baselworld Watch Division and CEO of TAG Heuer, 2018 was a good year and the Swiss Positive feedback was also heard in the sees the following advantages: “The exhibitors were satisfied with this year’s gemstone sector. For example, Groh + whole world comes together in Basel. edition. Ripp’s owner Bernd Willi Ripp declared: That’s why the show is called ‘Baselworld’. “Our Hall 3.0 was well frequented It is the ‘world’ for our industry, Satisfaction likewise prevails among the and we could meet many of our elite journalists, VIPs and above all for our jewellery brands. Messika’s CEO Valérie customers. partners in the specialised trade. That’s Messika sees Baselworld’s advantages why Baselworld is the business platform.” in its internationalism: “Baselworld is
WORLD DIAMOND MAGAZINE NEWS Most important mid-year event in trade calendar to feature 2,000 exhibitors June Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair to shine spotlight on latest industry trends T he four-day June Hong exhibition space at the Hong Kong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair Convention & Exhibition Centre will feature an impressive (HKCEC), the fair is thoughtfully roster of exhibitors offering divided into well-defined theme and outstanding sourcing opportunities group pavilions, making navigating when it opens its doors on June 21. the show floor easier for buyers. Organised by UBM Asia, the B2B The 17 theme pavilions are Antique event is acknowledged as the & Vintage Jewellery; Corals; CORE most important mid-year show in Pavilion; Designer Arena; Diamonds; the jewellery trade calendar. It is Fashion Jewellery; Fei Cui Gallery; anticipated to host around 2,000 Fine Design Pavilion & Fine Gem suppliers from 41 countries and Pavilion; Fine Jewellery; Gemstones; regions and from across all the core Jewellery Accessories; Packaging, sectors of the industry. Tools & Equipment; Jewellery Mountings; Pearls; Silver Jewellery and Occupying 70,000 square metres of Stainless Steel Jewellery. 38 World Diamond Magazine | June 2018-14
The fair will also highlight 18 group the pulse of the market, take stock pavilions led by countries, regions and review one’s strategies, and place and trade associations. Adding a new orders.” dimension to the India Pavilion this year is the Gem & Jewellery Export The industry landscape is shifting and Promotion Council, which is bringing has grown even more competitive, together more than 50 exhibitors underscoring the strategic importance to the Gemstones (Hall 5E) and of platforms like the June Fair. Diamonds (Hall 3BDCE) sections of “Against this evolving backdrop, the the June Fair. The pavilion will span a importance of building authentic total area of around 600sqm. relationships with customers and having a deeper and far-reaching Staying ahead understanding of market changes are Commenting on the pivotal role vital to business success. This is why played by the June Fair in the jewellery people invest and participate in the sector, Wolfram Diener, Senior Vice June Fair,” Diener continued. President of UBM Asia, said, “The June Fair is the only B2B event of its Celine Lau, Director of Jewellery Fairs kind in the jewellery industry that at UBM Asia, added that the June occupies this unique mid-year slot. Fair has been evolving to meet the Around this period, jewellers and changing needs of the industry and retailers are gearing up for what they deliver more impactful experiences need in the second half of the year, that buyers can engage with. from the collections that they will be presenting at the world’s No. 1 “This year, the Antique & Vintage fine jewellery event – the September Jewellery Pavilion will be relocated Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair – to to the Grand Foyer while the Fei Cui the merchandise that will be in their Gallery, an exclusive section giving display windows come peak buying prominence to some of the world’s season. This is the best time to feel finest-quality jadeite collections, will June 2018-14 | World Diamond Magazine 39
WORLD DIAMOND MAGAZINE NEWS C M Y CM MY CY CMY K be joining the Fine Design Pavilion and Seminars focusing on timely topics fairs globally, offers opportunities Fine Gem Pavilion in the Grand Hall. relevant to industry stakeholders will to the world’s jewellery trade. UBM These highly curated floor spaces will also be held. Asia’s jewellery fairs attract over spark cross-aisle synergy and deliver an Another show highlight is the 120,000 trade buyers and over 11,000 enhanced trade show experience to both announcement on June 21 of the exhibitors from around the world. The exhibitors and buyers,” Lau explained. honourees or finalists for the seventh September Hong Kong Jewellery & edition of the JNA Awards. Organised Gem Fair, with over 3,700 exhibitors Rich Content by UBM Asia, the JNA Awards and around 59,000 visitors, is the The CORE Pavilion, now in its recognises and honours companies world’s number one fine jewellery second year, is where one will find the and individuals that exemplify event. The June Fair is Asia’s biggest highest concentration of Hong Kong’s excellence, leadership and innovation mid-year international jewellery fair. established jewellery manufacturers. in the jewellery industry, with a UBM Asia also organises jewellery These companies have expanded their focus on their contribution in Asia, fairs in Shenzhen and Shanghai in international reach in partnership with and whose ideas and actions have China; Chennai, Delhi, Hyderabad UBM Asia’s Jewellery & Gem Fairs in impacted positive change in their and Kolkata in India; Japan; Turkey; Hong Kong, and have been actively businesses and communities. Singapore; Taiwan; Bahrain in promoting the city’s standing as a the Middle East and in Moscow frontrunner in the field of jewellery About UBM Asia’s jewellery fairs and St Petersburg in the Russian design, manufacturing and branding. UBM Asia, organiser of the most Federation. professional international jewellery 40 World Diamond Magazine | June 2018-14
WORLD DIAMOND MAGAZINE NEWS Istanbul glittered with all jewelry of the world I stanbul, March 29th, office of UBM Asia, the number of visitors compared representatives of the jewelry 2018 - Recognized biggest exhibition organizer to the exhibition in March industry. Business contacts as one of the top five in the Asian continent, and 2017. As part of the biggest made during the exhibition jewelry exhibitions in the sponsored by Türk Ekonomi International Buyer Delegation helped realize around 80% world, Istanbul Jewelry Show, Bankası (TEB), which has Program of Turkish exhibition of the exports of the Turkish brought together products and been meeting the short and sector, 1.500 buyers from the jewelry industry. services from 1.250 companies long-term financing needs target countries of the jewelry and brands and 30.042 local of the jewelry sector for over industry were hosted. On Organized by UBM Rotaforte and foreign visitors for the 20 years and recognized as the other hand, the seminars Uluslararası Fuarcılık A.Ş., the 46th time between 22 - 25 the 5th biggest international organized under sponsorship Turkey office of UBM Asia, the March 2018. Organized by jewelry exhibition in the of HRD Antwerp alongside biggest exhibition organizer UBM Rotaforte Uluslararası world, Istanbul Jewelry Show the exhibition provided in the Asian continent under Fuarcılık A.Ş., the Turkey saw a 21% increase in the flow of information to the sponsorship of Türk Ekonomi 42 World Diamond Magazine | June 2018-14
Bankası (TEB) which is the ternational Buyer Delegation any interruption by UBM silver, silver accessories and leader in gold banking, and Program, 1.500 buyers from Rotaforte, Istanbul Jewelry silver household items, gold recognized as one of the top the target markets of the Show featured over 1.250 mounters, refinery, watches, five jewelry exhibitions in jewelry industry were hosted local and international molds, shop window the world, the 46th Istanbul at the exhibition. jewelry companies and decorations, machinery and Jewelry Show brought brands representing a wide equipment side industry, together the representatives 21% increase in the number range of product groups safes, software, and logistics of the jewelry industry at of visitors compared to and sectors including gold, and lighting product groups. CNR Expo, Istanbul Fair previous year! jewelry, diamonds, colored Center between March 22nd Organized twice a year for stones, precious and semi- The exhibitors had the – 25th. And as part of the In the last 33 years without precious stones, pearls, chance to showcase their Istanbul Jewelery Fair - the first 20 countries visited March 2018: Turkey 18.947 Turkey 18.947 1 Iranian 918 12 Israel 296 2 Saudi Arabia 792 13 Ukraine 266 3 Algeria 693 14 Tunisian 231 4 Iraq 657 15 Azerbaijan 222 5 India 649 16 Germany 207 6 United Arab Emirates 581 17 Palestine 183 7 Lebanon 440 18 Greece 167 8 Russia 416 19 İtaly 164 9 Jordan 378 20 Pakistan 164 10 Morocco 337 Other countries 3.029 11 Egypt 305 Total 30.042 June 2018-14 | World Diamond Magazine 43
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