Shri Narendra modi focus on Skill, Scale and Speed; finds synergy with the AEPC management
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Vol.02 Issue No.10, June 2014 RNI No. HARENG/2012/45083 Postal Regn. No.GRG/37/2012-2014 Shri Santosh Kumar Gangwar Minister of State (Independent Charge) for Textiles Shri Narendra Modi Prime Minister of India Smt. Nirmala Sitharaman Commerce & Industry Minister (Independent Charge) Shri Narendra modi focus on Skill, Scale and Speed; finds synergy with the AEPC Management
AEPC Participates in SOURCING MAGIC at Las Vegas, U.S.A. Date: 17-20 August, 2014 Venue : Vegas Convention Centre, 3150 Paradise Road, 89109 Las Vegas, Nevada U.S.A Participation Charges : Sl.No. Particulars Participation charges (Rs.) 1 Participation charges of a 10' x 10' SQFT booth Rs 3,20,000/- 2 Early bird discount uptil 9th May, 2014 Rs 10,000/- (If entire amount is paid) 3 Participation charges uptil 9th May, 2014 Rs. 3,10,000/- 3 Participation charges after 9th May, 2014 Rs. 3,20,000/- Participation charges for additional booth with the same company name : Rs. 3,80,000/- (without MAI grant) Women’s Wear Men’s Wear Kid’s Wear Fashion Accessories For further details: K. S. Bisht, Joint Director (F&E), Apparel Export Promotion Council Apparel House, Sector - 44, Gurgaon Contact No. +91-124 270 8156, Mobile: +91 9810527747 E-mail: kbisht@aepcindia.com
APPAREL INDIA Editorial advisory board VIRENDER UPPAL Chairman, AEPC Sudhir Sekhri Chairman Export Promotion, AEPC Puneet Kumar Secretary General, AEPC Sameer Pushp Senior PRO, AEPC Puneet Kumar EDITOR ANNOU IYER EXECUTIVE EDITOR Printed by TrendLAB Fashion Publishing Pvt. Ltd. & Published by Apparel Export Promotion Council, sponsored by Govt. of India, Ministry of Textiles. Printed at Rakesh Press, A-22, Sector-68, Noida-201 301, Uttar Pradesh, India and Published at Apparel Export Promotion Council, Apparel House, Sector 44, Gurgaon, Delhi NCR, India. Editor: Puneet Kumar Content & design CIFF, Copenhagen Fashion Fair is one of the largest Scandinavian fashion trade fairs that goes beyond the traditional fashion fairs. A meeting point of international Registered Address: B-5, Anupam Plaza, Sri Aurobindo Marg, buyers and retailers the fair houses multiple brands under Hauz Khas, New Delhi- 110016, India one roof and provides the visitors an exceptional shopping and trading experience. The latest edition of the fashion Editorial & ADVERTISING queries: fair is set to be organized from 3-6 Aug, 2014 at Bella Center, Copenhagen, Denmark. This year the edition will M: +91 9899762388 run on Sunday too for the benefit of the local retailers and buyers in the region. E: apparelindia@trendlab.in 4 APPAREL INDIA
CONTENTS 06 Chairman’s Letter 34 Industry News Message from Shri Virender Uppal News from the Global Market 08 AEPC INITIATIVES 42 AEPC EXPORT PERFORMANCE Information on the most recent Apparel Export buoyant in April 2014 initiatives undertaken by AEPC 44 COUNTRY FOCUS 16 AEPC Pre-Budget Japan: India-Japan CEPA becoming catalyst Pre-Budget proposal to the Member Budget, for increasing apparel exports from India Central Board of Excise & Customs 50 Blueprint 2014 18 WTO UPDATES Salons & Fairs Review • Yemen to become 160th WTO member • Trade statistics show the least developed hit 52 MODAPRIMA more severely by global slowdown Salons & Fairs Review 20 FASHION INTELLIGENCE 54 Heimtextil India Article on Cost Control - It is time to go “Back Salons & Fairs Preview to the Basics ‘Ask Yourself’ 56 aePC NOTIFICATIONS 24 DISHA UPDATES Updates on Government Notifications Views on Jaipur DISHA Cluster 2014 59 APPAREL INDIA 25 ATDC UPDATES Advertising & Subscription Details ATDC as ‘Knowledge Partner’ for World Skill Competition 2015 61 EVENT PLANNER AEPC's Export Promotion Planner for the 26 RETAIL News 2014-15 News from the Retail Market in India 32 TEXTILE News News from the Textile Industry in India Published by Apparel Export Promotion Council Apparel House, Sector 44, Gurgaon, Delhi NCR, India Tel: 91 124 2708000-03 Fax: 91 124 2708004-05 Website: www.aepcindia.com Apparel India is a publication of the Apparel Export Promotion Council (AEPC). AEPC and APPAREL INDIA trademarks are owned by AEPC. All rights reserved worldwide. The Council does not take any responsibility about the credit worthiness or any other particulars of the firms featured in this monthly. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. AEPC as well as TrendLab Fashion Publishing Pvt Ltd. do not take responsibility for unsolicited material. Views expressed in Apparel India are not necessarily those of AEPC and TrendLab Fashion Publishing Pvt Ltd. Apparel India welcomes comments, suggestions or complaints if any. Email us, with your full name and address to apparelindia@trendlab.in APPAREL INDIA 5
Letter from the Chairman APPAREL INDIA Friends, you are aware that the Hon’ble Prime Minister has entrusted the Ministry of Textiles to Shri Santosh Kumar Gangwar and Ministry of Commerce & Industry to Smt. Nirmla Sitharaman, both of whom carry the same vision and commitment to boost garment exports from India. AEPC's delegation recently met and congratulated the new Ministers and briefed them about AEPC's role, as an apex export promotion body for garments in India and also highlighted the core issues of the Apparel Industry. The issues bothering the industry were highlighted before both of them. You would be glad to know that India now stands second in the global textiles exports. India's share in Global Textiles has increased by 17.5% in the year 2013 compared to the previous year. Currently India's Textiles Exports to the world is US$ 40.2 billion. This growth is phenomenal as the Global Textiles growth rate is only 4.7% compared to India as it has registered the growth of 23% beating China and Bangladesh in exports growth, which has registered 11.4% and 15.4%, respectively. This growth in Global Textiles Exports from India is largely attributed to the growth in the Apparel sector which accounts for the almost 43% of the export of textiles from India. Our ranking in global apparel exports has also improved from 8th position in 2012 to 6th position in 2013. Among the top five global clothing suppliers, India's growth in apparel exports growth during 2013 was the highest at 21.8%, with only Vietnam registering My dear fellow exporters, a higher growth. Apparel exports from India accounts for 3.7% of share in the Global export of Apparel. Textiles and Clothing Industry, like everyone, is very enthused on the occasion of Shri Narendra Modi, taking The council has also made its pre-budget submission to over as Prime Minister of India, especially at a time the Member Budget in the Ministry of Finance and made when Indian apparel industry needs a lot of support from a detailed presentation. This issue of Apparel India has the Government of India. I firmly believe that under his the detailed account captured for the Member Exporters visionary and legendary leadership, India would certainly to read. Under my Chairmanship a team of AEPC’s scale new heights. In my letter written to Hon'ble PM, officials made the representation on Duty drawback to I have also highlighted the role of AEPC, with 7000 Joint Secretary, Drawback. The Council pressed for the member exporters across India, who have achieved an simplification of drawback schedule, its classifications, export of US$ 14.94 billion in the year 2013-14 and have provide extra window for state and local levies, increase a share of almost 43% of the country's textiles exports. the entitlement of Export Promotion Council from 3% to I have also outlined our role in training huge number of 5% under EPC Scheme of Councils and drawback claimed people through ATDC and IAM. I am confident that under should be made available under advance licence if any his able leadership, AEPC would get due attention and of the inputs are used in export production are procured shall be provided with conducive export policies so as domestically other than the imported inputs. to achieve the export target of US$ 17 billion, set by the Ministry of Textiles, Government of India for the year AEPC has asked for the removal of restriction which 2014-15. limits the import of sample fabric up to a maximum 500 6 APPAREL INDIA
Letter from the Chairman APPAREL INDIA meters, in one financial year, under the scheme of duty submission to the Government on the list of our demands. free import of 3% Export Performance Certificate of Ministry of Finance (under the EPC Schemes).The limit Under Skill Development - Apparel Training and Design of 500 meters is absolutely insufficient for R&D and trial Centre (ATDC) is doing a wonderful job and has grown runs. The limit was 200 meters during 2002 and was later in scope and reach. ATDC which commenced operations increased to 500 meters during year 2003. We are hopeful in December 1995, has today 195 shop-floor training that Ministry of Textiles would support us and our case centers, over 23 States, covering 32 centres in South India would be considered for upward revision. (major clusters Chennai, Tirupur, Dharampuri, Perampuri, Paramakudi, Erode, Salem,), 39 in North (Gurgaon, Delhi, As part of the Export Promotion activities for 2014-15, Faridabad, Noida, Jaipur and Ludhiana), 33 in East Council shall be facilitating direct marketing of garments (Kolkata, Bhubaneshwar, Ranchi, Patna, Imphal) and rest and has planned multiple fairs in markets across the world in West (Mumbai, Indore, Surat, Raipur, Nagpur, Bhopal). viz, USA, Japan, Hong Kong, Germany, Netherlands, ATDC has trained 1,17,958 workers so far. Institute Australia, Spain, France, Brazil, Uruguay and Chile. It is of Apparel Management, Gurgaon is in operation for also ready with plans to hold important international fairs higher education since Aug 2007 and has rolled-out 317 and events such as India International Garment Fairs, professionals till date. Tex-Trends India, India Market Days, India Knit Fair and Source Zone in India. I request all members to take full Friends, despite the slow recovery in USA and EU, our advantage of these opportunities and participate in huge biggest traditional markets, and a slowdown in non- numbers. traditional markets coupled with sustained cost of inflationary inputs, our Industry has done very well for itself Last month I, along with Secretary Textiles, was in and is actually itching to do more. Increase in labour costs Tirupur for the inauguration of Knitwear Technology in China and non-compliance of large number of factories Mission. The KTM Centre was inaugurated by Smt. in Bangladesh have provided India a big opportunity to Zohra Chatterji, IAS, Secretary, Ministry of Textiles, fill up the void created by these happenings. A small push Government of India on 6th May 2014. The 38th edition from the Government will help India get more business as of India Knit Fair, featuring Spring-Summer Collection Buyers are looking towards India as a safe and reliable 2015, organized by Apparel Export Promotion Council option for the Sourcing. New Government at the center in collaboration with Tirupur Exporters' Association has ignited hope and expectations among all of us. Lets under the umbrella of India Knit Fair Association, was together make India the top most destination for garment also inaugurated by Secretary Textiles Tirupur on from sourcing in the world. 7th May, 2014 in presence of Dr. A Sakthivel, Chairman- IKFA-KTM and Shri Puneet Kumar, Secretary General, AEPC. On the sidelines of the Fair, an Exporters Meet Virender Uppal was also organised to get the inputs from the Industry for Chairman AEPC APPAREL INDIA 7
AEPC Initiatives AEPC welcomes new Textiles Minister Shri Santosh Kumar Gangwar Profile of the Textile Minister Shri Santosh Kumar Gangwar is the new Minister of State (independent charge) for Ministry of Textiles and also Minister of State for Parliamentary affairs, Water resources, River Development and Ganga rejuvenation. (born 1 November 1948) is a Member of Parliament (16th Lok Sabha), former minister of state in Government of India and a leader of Bharatiya Janata Party (BJP). He has been Member of Parliament for the city of Bareilly since 1989 till date (except 2009-2014). He was also the chief whip of Shri Santosh Kumar Gangwar the party in 14th Lok Sabha. Shri Virender Uppal, Chairman AEPC, congratulates Shri Gangwar is associated with social work Prime Minister Shri Narendra Modi and his team of Ministers and active politics for over three decades. He served as a member of the Uttar Pradesh Shri Virender Uppal, Chairman AEPC, congratulates Prime State BJP Working Committee and held the Minister, Shri Narendra Modi and New Textiles Ministers Shri Santosh Kumar Gangwar and Commerce & Industry Minister position of General Secretary of the Uttar Smt. Nirmala Sitharaman. Pradesh BJP Unit in 1996. He was Minister of State for Petroleum and Natural Gas with additional charge of Parliament Affairs in 13th Lok Sabha. Prior to this, Shri Gangwar was Minister of State of Science and Technology with additional charge of Parliamentary Affairs during October and November 1999. Currently, Shri Gangwar is Member of Parliament in 16th Lok Sabha. On 26 May 2014, Shri Gangwar has taken the Oath for MoS Cabinet in Narendra Modi's Government. He is survived by one son and one daughter. Shri Virender Uppal, Chairman AEPC 8 APPAREL INDIA
Initiatives AEPC Shri Uppal, in his letter to Shri Modi, extended his warm with blueprint for the textiles industry.” Shri Gangwar was wishes and hoped that India will progress under his regime. briefed by the senior officers of the Ministry about the The new Government under his leadership has ignited hope issues and developments in the textiles sector. and expectations that the aspirations of the Industry will be duly met to boost the garment exports from India. Shri Uppal expressed his happiness, over Shri Santosh Kumar Gangwar to be entrusted with the Textiles Minister responsibility and stated that, “Please accept my heartiest congratulations on your assumption of the office of the Textiles Minister of India. I hope that the new Government under your able leadership will further advance and strengthen the garment export sector, to which India attaches high importance because of the highest employment potential and power to accelerate manufacturing.” Shri Sudhir Sekhri, Chairman Export Promotion also congratulated the Textiles Minister. In his message he said, “It gives me great pleasure to extend my warmest congratulations to you on your appointment as Textiles Minister of the Republic of India. The beginning of this new phase in Indian politics and the start of work by your government come at a crucial time when this industry needs the support. I am also certain that I can rely on your commitment to carry on the process of necessary reforms so that together the government Smt. Nirmala Sitharaman and AEPC are able to cope with the challenges posed by the crisis of global slowdown for restoring growth and jobs for Nirmala Sitharaman Assumes Charge as MOS millions of Indians.” (Independent Charge) Commerce and Industry Soon after the allocation of the Ministries, Shri Virender Uppal took a delegation of AEPC and met the New Textiles Smt. Nirmala Sitharaman after assuming her charge as and Commerce Minister and handed them the list of AEPC Minister of State (Independent Charge) Commerce and demands. Chairman also briefed the two Ministers about Industry, spoke to media persons. AEPC and the work it does for boosting the garment exports Speaking to the media after taking charge, Smt. Sitharaman from India. said that “there are lots of things happening in this Department which should be taken forward with greater Shri Santosh Gangwar, soon after assuming charge as enthusiasm given the impetus with which the Prime Minister MoS (Independent Charge) Ministry of Textiles, spoke Shri Narendra Modi would like the Department to function.” to media She added that she feels “very humbled” to have been given the responsibility. She emphasized that she “will give best Shri Santosh Kumar Gangwar after assuming charge as of my time” to improve economic and commercial ties with Minister of State (Independent Charge) in the Ministry India’s trading partners. Smt. Sitharaman said that she of Textiles, spoke to media. Shri Gangwar said that the will work to “improve on Indian exports, and ensure that textiles sector has a huge potential of providing large job opportunities emerge because that’s a very important number of jobs to the vulnerable section of the society. plank on which we have contested the recent elections. The Specifically speaking on the issues plaguing the sector in economic situation in this country demands that more jobs Uttar Pradesh, he said that local artisans need the push be provided for the young, talented, well-educated and even that will unlock the strengths of the region. “Zari Zardozi, the semi-skilled and unskilled people of India.” On the issue carpet and many other local crafts have huge export of Foreign Direct Investment (FDI), she said that there will potential and if proper attention is paid this can be a strong not be a “blanket approach” for every sector, and that each source of improvement of economy and employment.” and every sector would be looked in a “very, very calibrated Commenting on the Manjha industry of Bareilly, Shri fashion”. On FDI in multi-brand retail, she said that is “not Gangwar said that “due to wrong policies, the Manjha best opened up now because the way in which medium and industry has suffered and China has benefitted from the small sized traders or small farmers have not been adequately situation. Ten thousand people were rendered jobless.” empowered… that immediately if you open up the floodgates He also added that “we will not take long in coming out of FDI in multi-brand retail, it may affect them.” APPAREL INDIA 9
AEPC Initiatives 38th India Knit Fair inaugurated at Tirupur The 38th edition of India Knit Fair featuring Spring-Summer Collection 2015 organized by Apparel Export Promotion Council (Sponsored by Ministry of Textiles, Govt. of India) in collaboration with Tirupur Exporters’ Association under the umbrella of India Knit Fair Association was held at IKFA Complex, Tirupur from 7th – 9th May, 2014... Smt. Zohra Chatterji inaugurates the 38th India Knit fair in the presence of Dr. A. Sakthivel, Chairman-IKFA-KTM; Shri Puneet Kumar, Secretary General AEPC and Shri P.N. Prasad, General Manager General Manager, Mid- Corporate Group, SBI The India Knit Fair was inaugurated by Smt. Zohra Chatterji, the year business. She also said an integrated framework for IAS., Secretary, Ministry of Textiles, Govt. of India, in the training (based on the need) has been formulated to address the presence of Shri Virender Uppal, Chairman, Apparel Export trained manpower requirements of textiles and related segments Promotion Council; Dr. A Sakthivel, Chairman-IKFA-KTM; Shri and the ministry proposed to operate projects in the 12th Plan Puneet Kumar, IAS.; Secretary General, AEPC; Shri PN Prasad with an outlay of Rs.1,900 crores, with a target to train 15 lakhs General Manager; Mid-corporate Group, SBI. The Executive persons by 2017. Dr. A Sakthivel, Chairman-IKFA & KTM in Committee Members of Tirupur Exporters’ Association, Leading his briefing to the press, he has pointed out that India Knit Fair Trade Members, Officials of State Bank of India, Office bearers has assumed its significance in world trade, as the platform to of IKFA (India Knit Fair Association), Exhibitors, Exporters and service Fashion Knitwear from India. He also expressed that Overseas buyers were among others who graced the occasion. there is a good demand for manmade/synthetic yarn products and Smt. Zohra Chatterji, Secretary Textiles, congratulated the invited the Tirupur industry to make use of Knitwear Technology garment sector for its contribution to the textile industry. She Mission, a project set up by AEPC which was inaugurated prior to said that garment sector, being at the top end of the textile sector India Knit Fair by Smt. Zohra Chatterji, IAS Secretary General, contributes nearly 50% of the total export of textile products from GOI. He added that if the situation continues with forging new our Country. While addressing the press and media, the Textile markets, the growth would double in the next three years and Secretary told that the textile ministry will soon come out with the export from Tirupur hub can reach Rs. 36,000 crores from a hire purchase scheme for machinery under Technology Up- the present Rs. 18,000 crores. He has appealed to the Ministry gradation Fund Scheme (TUFS). She lauded the new technologies for its support to achieve the goal and fulfill the expectation of adapted by the Tirupur based manufactures. She also appreciated exporters on various policies and subsidies. Shri Virendra Uppal, the efforts taken by AEPC for skill development and initiatives Chairman, AEPC and Shri Puneet Kumar, Secretary of AEPC taken for developing manmade fibre garments to have round and various officials took part in the meeting. 10 APPAREL INDIA
Initiatives AEPC Smt. Zohra Chatterji giving insights on the new Hire-Purchase Scheme-TUFS at the AEPC-KTM and Exporters Meet Profile of exhibits sleeping bags and garment dyed categories, 3D effects prints, An array of apparel categories for the 2015 season were sublimation prints, natural dyes, and value added apparels showcased by the exhibitors which include men, women, were also displayed. A stall put up by Knitwear Technology and children wears, knitted fleece garments, full sleeve knits, Mission of AEPC showcased specialty fabrics and innovative sportswear, work wear, leisure wear, night wear and many more apparels especially made from manmade fibres like polyster, for all age groups. Knitted high fashion apparels with brilliant nylon etc., through warp knits for sportswear, swim wear and shades, cold pigment and digital prints, crack printed, plated alike. Special finished garments like wicking finish, acid jersey, performance sportswear garments with wicking finish, wash, stone wash, silicon wash, flame retardant, anti-microbial terry knit, linen based, nappy look, camouflage prints and air finish were the displayed highlights in the fair. A total of 56 vortex yarn garments attracted the buyers. Double faced, stencil leading Exporters from Tirupur, Chennai, Coimbatore, Kolkata, spray designs; 100% bamboo, linen, wool, flat knits, acrylic, Mumbai, New Delhi Bhopal, Gujarat, Haryana (Palwal) had put modal, warp knit garments, swim wear, tennis wear, children’s up their stalls in the fair. Smt. Zohra Chatterji addressing the media with Shri Dr. A Sakthivel, Chairman-IKFA-KTM; Shri Puneet Kumar, Secretary General AEPC APPAREL INDIA 11
AEPC Initiatives Models showcasing the exclusive Spring/Summer collections presented by the participants at the 38th India Knit Fair Fashion Show Visited Buyers Models walked on the ramp with collections the Spring/ Buyers/Buying Agents were satisfied with the good quality Summer collections during the Fashion Show organized on 6-8 design and collections displayed in the Fair. A contingent of May 2014. Stall awards were distributed to the outstanding Buyers from Belgium, Honduras (South America), USA, Spain, exhibitors. Hong Kong, Valencia, Tokyo (Japan), Israel, Uruguay (South Shri Santhanagopalan, AGM, State Bank of India, Tirupur and America), Panama, Dubai (UAE), London (UK), Canada, Shri K. Vasanthkumar, Co-ordinator, IKFA were presented Best Australia, Italy, Spain, France have visited the fair and are Exhibitor Awards and appreciation certificates to the following keen on increasing their sourcing of Knitwear from India. Buyers exhibitors on behalf of India Knit Fair Association. from Uruguay, Israel, Japan, Honduras visited the fair for the first time and expressed satisfaction on the collections on display M/S. Eastman Exports Global Clothing (P) Ltd, Tirupur and doing business with India. In total, 48 Buyers from different Best Exhibit countries and 105 Buying Houses /Agents visited the Fair. On interaction with the participants, it seemed good numbers of M/S. Eureka Clothing Company: enquiries were received in this fair. Some participants have also First Runner-Up booked spot orders. Overall, it is expected that total business M/S. Clifton Export Private Limited generated through this fair will be to the tune of around Rs. 300 Second Runner-Up crores. IKFA gratefully acknowledge the active participation of exhibitors, interest shown by the buyers and all stakeholders. M/S. Bhaskar Denim, Bhopal: This three day event ended with good business generation. Consolation Certificate AEPC to organize Buyer-Seller meet in Spain Apparel Export Promotion Council has been organizing Buyer Seller Meet in Spain since the year 2008. Based on the excellent response received during previous BSM’s Apparel Export Promotion Council has decided to organize Buyer-Seller Meet in Spain again in September 2014... Spain has been a very attractive market for Indian Apparel. ensembles, jackets, dresses, blouses, shawls, scarves, mufflers, Main items of export to Spain are– T-Shirts, singlets, ladies suits, underpants, infant wear and clothing accessories etc. India exports 12 APPAREL INDIA
Initiatives AEPC garments of worth US$ 595 million to Spain, which accounts for Venue Date Days 4.1% share in Spain’s total garment imports of US$ 14304 million Catalonia Barcelona Set-up Day:- 3rd and has tremendous export potential. Plaza September, 2014 (Wednesday) Plaza Espana, 6-8 BSM Days:- 4 – 5 (Thursday / Friday) AEPC 08014 Barcelona September, 2014 organizes HOTEL MELIA AVENIDA DE Buyer-Seller meet AMERICA Set-up Day:- 7th September, 2014 (Sunday) (Monday/ Tuesday) BSM Days:- 8 – 9 in Spain C/ Juan Ignacio Luca de Tena 36 September, 2014 28027 Madrid Schedule A dedicated Website will be launched for online registration The Buyer Seller Meet has been arranged at Barcelona and of the buyers and the exhibitors company profiles will also Madrid on the following dates. be uploaded on the website of the BSM. India ranks second in Global Textiles Exports: Chairman Aepc India has improved its ranking as per the recent data released by ‘UN Comtrade’ in Global Textiles as well as Apparel Exports. In Global Textiles Exports, India now stands at second position beating its competitors like Italy, Germany and Bangladesh, with China still retaining its top position... Shri Virender Uppal, Chairman AEPC, expressed his happiness over Chairman AEPC while lauding the efforts of the Apparel exporters, this impressive growth and stated that, “Despite having slow recovery conveyed his concerns also that while the industry is actually itching in USA and EU, our biggest traditional markets as well as prevailing to do more, stressed that, “The availability of speciality fabric is a big global slowdown coupled with sustained cost of inflationary inputs, bottleneck for which AEPC has been aggressively demanding 5% duty we made the best possible efforts to reach here. Government policy of scrip for the imports of fabrics. It must be considered favourably by the diversification of market and product base has helped us and we ventured new government to boost India’s Apparel exports. Garment exporters into the newer markets, which paid huge dividends. We also leveraged may be permitted to import it with 5% duty scrip on the input, so as to our raw material strengths and followed sustained better compliance increase exports and optimally use to the fullest extent our potential. practices which attracted the buyers and international brands across The rising interest rate is another issue which hampers growth for the globe to source from India. India’s share in Global Textiles has which AEPC once again has put in its request to the Government for a increased by 17.5% in the year 2013 compared to the previous year. Separate chapter for pre and post shipment export credit at fixed rate of Currently India’s Textiles Exports to the world is US$ 40.2 billion. This 7.0% interest, as was done in the past also to the apparel export sector growth is phenomenal as the global Textiles growth rate is only 4.7% and treat Readymade Garment as the priority sector lending. As the compared to India as it has registered the growth of 23% beating China Government is contemplating new Union Budget and Foreign Trade and Bangladesh which has registered 11.4% and 15.4%, respectively. policy, I earnestly request the government to concede these two demands Total Global Textiles Exports is to the tune of US$ 772 billion with India of RMG sector utmost priority. Increasing labour cost in China, non- commanding 5.2% of the share. This growth in the increase in share of compliance of large number of factories in Bangladesh provide India a the Textiles Exports from India is largely attributed to the growth in the big opportunity in view of its relative advantage, risk appetite of Indian Apparel and Clothing sector as it accounts for almost 43% of the share entrepreneurs and a small push from the government may help India to alone. The Apparel Exports ranking has also improved from 8th position get more business as overseas buyers are looking at India as safe and in 2012 to 6th position in 2013. India’s Apparel exports was to the reliable option for sourcing. But to capture the space in market left by tune of US$ 15.7 billion in 2013, as against US$ 12.9 billion in 2012. China and Bangladesh, we have to be competitive in pricing, apart from Among the top five global clothing suppliers except for the Vietnam; meeting strict timelines, better quality delivery by Indian exporters and India’s Apparel exports growth was highest registering 21.8% growth therefore, government agencies active support is very crucial. AEPC is during the year 2013. Apparel Exports from India accounts for 3.7% of pushing in this direction to seek export friendly enabling environment share in the Global Readymade Garment Exports. Shri Virender Uppal, from the government, Shri Uppal added. APPAREL INDIA 13
AEPC Initiatives Source Zone Fabric & Accessories Fair After the success of Source Zone in 2010, 2011 and 2012, Apparel Export Promotion Council is organizing the 5th Edition of Source Zone from 12th-14th November, 2014 at Apparel House, Sector – 44, Institutional Area, Gurgaon – 122003, Haryana. Source Zone offers apparel exporters a great opportunity to source their requirements for fabrics, laces, trims, embellishments and accessories under one roof. Leading domestic suppliers from across India and international suppliers will exhibit at this Show. The buzz for Source Zone is created within India and abroad through excessive marketing campaign... 12-14 November 2014 Apparel House, Gurgaon Over the years, the show has generated positive response and high accessories and services (ready-made garment satisfaction levels amongst both suppliers and buyers. The varied manufacturers/ exporters) product-mix, coupled with innovative products, has been a much One to one interaction with the biggest garment appreciated factor by buyers & suppliers. Last edition saw 913 manufacturers and exporters buyers and buying agents Levis, Bharti Wal-Mart, Li&Fung, Triburg, The only International show in India for manufacturers Reliance Trends, Benetton, Impulse, M & S to name a few. and suppliers of fabric, accessories and services organized by AEPC. Fabrics More than 7000 members of AEPC are potential buyers of Fabrics, Accessories and Trims. Fabrics of viscose, velvet, georgette, cotton, silk, embroidered, ploy/ US$ 40 billion garment industry of export and domestic cotton blend, Terry toweling fabric, Wrap knitted fabric, Lycra blend, source fabrics, accessories and trims for manufacturing 100% linen in yarn dyed and printed fabric, in woven and knits for garments. men’s, women’s and kid’s wear. Price of the stall has been reduced to benefit SME's Airfare reimbursement for exhibitors participating from Trimmings & Embellishments outside Delhi and NCR. Best Display Awards for Fabric & Accessories. Schiffli embroidery, crochet laces, heat transfers sticker, panty Help Desk for administrative support hose, socks, logos, jewellery, metal trims, draw cords, raw cords, Personalized escort for important visitors. wadding. Business Potential Services India consumes fabrics worth US$ 12 billion annually. Suppliers of CAD/CAM systems and software; design studios; India consumes accessories worth US$ 3 billion each year testing and QC; consultants; logistics and trade media, fashion India has over 50,000 apparel manufacturing units publications etc. Who Must Participate Highlights Manufacturers and exporters of Fabrics (natural and man-made) Opportunity for buyers to analyze the widest spectrum of existing as well as manufacturers/ exporters of accessories for apparel and emerging products and services at the best rates and supplier of services related to the textile and apparel industry Provides access to more than 10,000 buyers of fabric, must participate in the Source Zone Fair. 14 APPAREL INDIA
Initiatives AEPC Benefits to Exhibitors Enhancing and revitalizing one’s brand & network Exploring and tapping global markets and trends, interact and trade with thousands of top buyers/decision takers at one place Focused market strategy for better business conversion Grab bulk orders at competitive rates Finalize long term contracts and credit policies Network and establish one-on-one contact with India's top exporters Maintaining customer relationships and meeting with prospects Benefits to Visiting Buyers Local and international retail chains Departmental stores Opportunity to analyze and choose from a wide spectrum of Apparel brands existing and emerging products and services at one place Fashion designers and merchandisers Top executives and decision makers of supplying firms at a Design studios common platform Fashion Institutes Analyze prevailing rates in the market Trade body representatives Finalize bulk requirements Trade media Negotiate best rates for bulk orders Utilize the negotiated rates to reduce manufacturing costs and Aggressive marketing for this event is being done by AEPC. thereby remain competitive in global market Council expect leading buying agents, buyers, local & domestic brand owners and exporters to attend. Target Buyers The success of this event hinges as much on the profile of the exhibitors as it does on the profile of the visitors attending. This Fabric importers, distributors and wholesalers show is being organized for trade visitors only, AEPC will enable Garment exporters and manufacturers companies to interact and conduct business in a conducive and Buying houses and Buying agents facilitative environment. APPAREL INDIA 15
AEPC Pre-Budget AEPC submits its Pre-Budget proposal to the Member Budget, Central Board of Excise & Customs A presentation was made by the AEPC before Shri Kaushal Srivastava (Member) Budget, CBEC wherein detailed proposal including suggestions/recommendations with respect to the Tax Issues in Apparel Export Sector was submitted. AEPC team was led by, Shri HKL Magu, Chairman (F & B), Shri Puneet Kumar, Secretary General and Shri Vijay Mathur, ASG AEPC... RMG export sector contributes 4.8% share in the India's all commodity exports and ranks 7th in foreign exchange earnings for India in FY 2013-14; predominantly comprising of SMEs which is critical for the job creation and spurring manufacturing in India. RMG sector is the largest employment provider in manufacturing sector. As per 12th Plan report of the Working Group of Ministry of Textiles, RMG, sector provides 11.22 million jobs, (24.83%) of total employment in textile sector. The 12th Plan report of Working Group of Ministry of Textiles has set a target of 18% annual growth for RMG exports during 12th plan; as against 15.17% growth for textile sector as a whole. Target for the 12th Plan 1. The plan prescribes target of US$ 32.03 bn. for RMG in 2016-17, which is highest among all verticals of textile value chain benefits under section 35 (R&D) and section 80JJAA of IT Act, Constraints 1961 (minimum workers/days) 2. Limited fabric availability, particularly in non-cotton segments 12. The manpower engaged by the contractors in the exporters and specialty segments-need to step up easier supply systems premises, who are involved in the manufacturing activity in the 3. Limited availability of trimming and embellishments domestically terms of section 2(f) of Central Excise Act 1944, meant for export, - need to step up easier supply systems not fully exempted from the perview of Service Tax 4. No mechanism for refund of state levies, octroi, electricity duties 13. The Service of “Cash Management” rendered by the overseas etc. on garment exports Forward Agent (FA) not covered by the heading “Banking and 5. All taxes except customs duty get exported in the absence of All Other Financial Services” and thus not liable to payment of Industry Duty Drawback, in case when fabric inputs are procured service tax, causing avoidable litigation to exporters through imports duty free 14. AEPC is an export promotion body and is liable to pay service 6. Nil/partial refund of service tax on account of issue of nexus of tax for providing services to its members for export promotion services with exports like services rendered by Container Freight activities – costly services to exporters Station (CFS), Clearing House Agents (CHA), Terminal Handling Charges (THC) etc. Proposal on Direct Taxation 7. Service tax on Govt. grants to EPCs, hits even the Govt. support leading to unnecessary paper work and transaction 1. Amendment in Section 35 of IT Act 1961 8. High cost of pre and post shipment export credit rate, since the Current Position: deductions in respect of expenditure introduction of Base Rate of credit in place of Benchmark Prime on scientific research under Sub Section 35 (1) (ii), an amount Lending Rate in 2010. equal to one and three-fourth times of any sum paid to a research 9. In-competitiveness of our garment export industry due to high association provided, that such association, university, college or cost of manufacturing on account of loading of state levies, octroi other institution for the purpose of this clause- and electricity duty etc. not refunded at all. • Is for the time being approved, in accordance with the guidelines, 10. High cost of manufacturing due to high interest rates on export in the manner and subject to such conditions as may be prescribed; credit; erosion of capital base and 11. Garment export industry not able to take advantage of existing • such association, university, college or other institution is specified 16 APPAREL INDIA
Pre-Budget AEPC as such, by notification in the Official Gazette, by the Central involved by raising the ceiling to 5%] Government (ii) Expansion of eligible items (Tissue paper for packing, dyestuffs, Suggested Amendment: The benefit of this section should adhesives, artificial fur, and silicon crystal packed bag for be extended to readymade garment sample making to the extent of absorbing the moisture) should be added in the duty free list of 5% of the turnover of that assessee in the same assessment year. trimming and embellishments: [At present 36 items of trimmings and embellishments are allowed and if these 5 items are added, the same shall be well within the Justification rate of entitlement (iii) In above said entitlement under S.no. 282(y) of the notification no. I. The garment making activity in-fact is an outcome of scientific 12/2012-custom dated March 17, 2012, “sample fabric of total research. length up to 500 meter imported during one financial year” is II. It involves creation of fabric, design, pattern and colors which allowed, which should be amended to read only “sample fabrics”. vary according to need The same shall be well within the rate of entitlement. III. Samples are made for 8 to 10 fashion seasons which are done in house and incurs extra cost on raw material, capital and man All Industry Duty Drawback power IV. Further, since the coverage of this section would be to domestic as 1. Full neutralization of state levies, electricity duty, octroi, currently well as export industry, it would be fully WTO compliant. charged to exporters but not disbursed under All Industry Duty AEPC proposes Amendment in Section 80JJAA of IT Act, 1961 Drawback. Current Position: deduction is allowed for the amount equal 2. Disbursement of excise portion of all industry duty drawback to 30% of “additional wages” paid to new regular workmen (in wherever fabric, which is around 50% component of garment, excess of 100 workmen)for workers employed for 300 days , is imported duty free and other raw material/consumables are subject to condition about nature of employment procured duty paid domestically under corresponding value Suggested Amendment: employed for 300 days may be addition. amended to 150 days and workmen should also include contact/ 3. Simplification in classification of garments at the exit point for the casual workers purpose of payment of duty drawback Justification Proposal on Service Tax 1. Waiving of Service Tax on taxable service in sub clause (zzze) of I. The RMG industry is seasonal clause (105) of Section 65 of Finance Act on services may be II. There is no business for Autumn/Winter season. provided to specified associations under (zzze) of Finance Act for III. The factories are functional only for 6 to 8 months, therefore do the period of viz. 16.06.2005 to 06.07.2009 not qualify for 300 days of working to a regular employees, 2. EPCs should be exempted from service tax payment on organizing IV. Tax Benefit for the training of the unemployed youth in garment exhibition in domestic market sector with decisive employment 3. Garment export sector should be brought under the negative list of 3. Commission paid to foreign agents residing abroad may be service tax exempted from the purview of TDS U/s 195 of the Income Tax Act Proposal on Banking and Finance Proposal on Excise Duty 2. Separate chapter for pre and post shipment export credit at fixed 1. The readymade garment industry should continue under optional rate of 7.0% interest and apparel sector to be included in the CENVAT chain priority sector lending. Till such time, in RMG, sector 3% Interest Subvention Scheme, which was available up to 31st March 2014, Proposal on Customs Duty should be continued. World trade in MMF garment is around 60%, whereas India 1. (i) Entitlement of Export Performance Certificate (EPC) should predominantly exports only Cotton garments. Currently, around be increased from 3% to 5% (Notification No. 05/2014-Customs 80% export from India is in Cotton/cotton blend; not able to enhance dated 17th February, 2014): share in MMF garments- value addition in this regard could make big [The value of the exports were Rs. 90,402 crore during 2013-14 difference in terms of exports from India. and the eligible import items value @ 3% would have been Rs. Shri Kaushal Srivastava (Member) Budget, CBEC has responded 2712 crore. Actual use was however Rs. 726 crore only. Even by positively to the AEPC demands and has assured all support to the raising the eligible ceiling from 3% to 5%, the usage shall not garment exporters which have the highest employment potential and exceed Rs. 2712 crore limit. Thus, no additional duty foregone is capacity to boost manufacturing in India. APPAREL INDIA 17
WTO Updates Yemen to become 160th WTO member Yemen deposited its “Instrument of Acceptance” on 27 May 2014 with Director-General Roberto Azevêdo, confirming its membership terms. According to WTO rules, Yemen will become a full-fledged member on 26 June 2014... Yemeni Minister of Trade and Industry, and WTO Director- General Roberto Azevêdo. Yemen is the seventh least-developed country (LDC) to accede to the multilateral trading system since the WTO was established in 1995. As an LDC, Yemen will benefit from technical assistance and capacity building from the WTO Secretariat to support the implementation of its accessions, commitments, negotiate trade rules and develop the trade-related skills and infrastructure needed to benefit from its WTO membership. DG Azevêdo welcomes Yemen to the WTO “On behalf of the WTO, I would like to pay special tribute to Minister Saadaldeen Talib, who, as Chief Negotiator, guided By depositing the document with Director-General Roberto Yemen through the accession process. Azevêdo, Yemen activated the 30-day countdown to its WTO We celebrate accessions both because of what it means for the membership which will be effective on 26 June 2014. In the individual country, but also because of what it means for this “Instrument of Acceptance”, the Yemeni government declares organization. that the law approving Yemen’s Protocol of Accession enacted Accessions help to safeguard and strengthen the multilateral by Parliament was issued by the President of Yemen on 11 May system by: 2014. • spreading trade liberalization and adherence to common rules Yemen applied for WTO membership in April 2000. It completed and standards; its application process on 26 September 2013 when the Working • building capacity; Partyconcluded its accessions negotiations and adopted the • improving market access opportunities; report of the Working Party ad referendum (i.e. subject to formal • and fostering international cooperation. approval by the Ministerial Conference). And, of course, each accession takes the WTO closer to its goal Trade ministers of WTO members officially approved Yemen’s of universality. accession on 4 December 2013 during the Ninth Ministerial This work is a strategic priority for the WTO — particularly the Conference in Bali, Indonesia. The Protocol of Accession accession of LDCs.” (document WT/L/905) was signed by H.E. Dr. Saadaldeen Talib, The Republic of Yemen will be our 35th LDC Member. Trade statistics show the least developed hit more severely by global slowdown - DG WTO Least developed countries experienced growth in 2012 and 2013 that was below their previous average, but could gain from an upturn since a large share of their exports go to Europe, which is recovering, Director-General Roberto Azevêdo stated his concerns at a press conference on the latest trade statistics on 14 April 2014. In 2009, in the aftermath of the global financial crisis, trade suffered Since then we haven't seen any more declines — and that's good news its largest decline on record — down 12% in volume terms, and 23% — but, other than the partial rebound in 2010, growth has remained in dollar terms, compared to the previous year. a long way below the historical average. 18 APPAREL INDIA
Updates WTO And for the last two years trade growth has been sluggish. So let's have a look at what happened in 2013 — and how we did in terms of our forecasts. As it is in every situation, these forecasts are not intended to predict the exact figures. If they do it's by chance, frankly, not mathematical precision. What you are really trying to do is, predict the trend. And in 2013 we think we got it right. We forecast that the overall story would be one of subdued trade growth. Our original forecasted was 3.3%, which we subsequently revised to 2.5% due to the downgrading of GDP forecasts during the year. This reflects the methodology we have for this work. As with any forecast, our trade forecasts are predicated on a series of assumptions. The extent to which these assumptions materialise plays an important role in the accuracy of our forecasts. If they don't materialise then we recalibrate our work. Chief among these assumptions are the predictions of GDP growth produced by other international institutions, including the IMF and OECD. In 2013 the EU recession ended in the second quarter rather than the first, as we had expected-and both trade and output in large developing economies were slower than expected. This meant GDP forecasts for the year had to be revised, and therefore so did our trade Developed Countries – and this is something that should always be forecasts. World trade growth slowed to just 2.1% in real volume terms at the forefront of our minds. These are the poorest countries in the in 2013, fractionally down on the year before-confirming the scenario WTO membership, and so their evolution is something we should we outlined of subdued growth. So now let's take a look forward to follow closely. 2014 and 2015. If GDP forecasts hold true, we expect a broad-based In general, the economic performance of LDCs is more closely linked but modest upturn in the volume of world trade in 2014, and further to the external environment, than it is in larger, more diverse emerging consolidation of this growth in 2015. For 2014 world trade should rise markets. And it is clear that they have keenly felt the impact of the by 4.7%. This is not yet quite at the historical average, but it is better global slowdown in the last two years. than last year. It would definitely be a step in the right direction. Growth in the dollar value of LDC exports was 1% in 2012 and 5% Forecasts for 2015 are much more uncertain because, of course, they in 2013. This is well below the 13% average since 2005 and down are based on longer-term assumptions about the evolution of the world sharply from the 24% increase seen in 2011. economy between now and then. Conversely, LDCs may benefit disproportionately from any With this caveat in mind, we foresee a 5.3% increase in world trade in improvement in the world economy going forward, since a large 2015. This would be in line with the 20-year average. portion of their exports-nearly 20%-goes to the recovering European Underlying these numbers is the expectation that trade growth in Asia Union. The hard data is thinner for these economies, but again this will continue to outpace other regions, while Europe will continue to is an area that we will be watching closely and putting even more lag behind, as high unemployment restrains consumer demand for emphasis on in future. In closing, it's clear that trade is going to some time to come. improve as the world economy also improves. A return to positive growth in EU trade flows will make a very But I know that just waiting for an automatic increase in trade will not important contribution to trade growth globally as the EU accounts be enough for WTO Members. We can actively support trade growth for around a third of world trade. So, once again, we will be watching by avoiding protectionism in times of uncertainty -and, of course, by closely to see if the recovery in the EU disappoints. updating the rules and reaching new trade agreements. We can go into more detail in the Q&A. For now I'd just like to pick The deal in Bali last December illustrates this. It will dramatically cut out two points of interest. the cost of doing business across borders-particularly in developing First is the ratio of trade growth to GDP growth. countries-while also supporting LDCs to gain preferential market The average ratio since the mid-1980s is around 2 to 1–with trade access. But of course there is a lot more we can do. growing at twice the pace of GDP. We must make every effort to move towards concluding the Doha However, in the last two years the ratio was closer to 1 to 1. Development Agenda as soon as possible. We have already made Although two years of roughly equal growth for both trade and GDP is progress in this work-building on the momentum of Bali. Now we not unprecedented, it is quite rare. are discussing new ideas and new approaches which could help us Whether this constitutes a trend, it is too soon to say. But it is clearly to get the job done-and to do it quickly. Concluding the round would something that we will be keeping a close eye on. provide a strong foundation for trade in the future, and a powerful The second point of interest is what has been happening in the Least stimulus in today’s slow growth environment. APPAREL INDIA 19
FASHION Intelligence Cost Control It is time to go “Back to the basics ‘Ask Yourself’ By Paul Collyer, UK Remaining both profitable and competitive is probably more intense and challenging today than at any time during the last 40 years in the garment industry. Manufacturers have principally reduced their costs to what they perceive to be the minimum; however, economic pressures require manufacturers to again re-examine their businesses and see where they can “cut further fat”. In the current circumstances, the most cost-effective way to address cost control is not to indulge in grandiose changes of production methods or acquire equipments but to look inward and consider what is currently happening and utilize the existing resources of men and machines better. A thorough review of each production-related activity needs to be conducted and improvements are needed to be sought wherever possible. It Is Time To Go “Back To The Basics”: ‘Ask Yourself’ The time is for introspection for all the manufacturing concerns without exception. Maintaining cost effectiveness and quality are the areas where manufacturers are looking forward to improve profitability. But while doing so they should remember that: • the implementation and cost measuring of • They cannot gain an advantage over their systematic operator training systems and competitors by the use of technology; the same • the combining of all activities into a systemic equipment is available to everyone. approach to managing a factory. • The purchasing of materials cannot give a competitive edge, particularly as many retailers It is time for manufacturers to revisit all of these areas of now insist on materials being purchased from a the business to ensure that resources are not being wasted. limited number of approved suppliers. During the day-to-day management of a sewing unit, it is easy • So, what is left to do is examining the manufacturing for standards to slip, performances to drop and bad habits costs, i.e. labour cost (standard hours) and the and poor practices to return. Action plans overseen by the control of overheads as this is the only point at senior management should be drawn up as part of a business which performances of different manufacturers improvement initiative. can be compared. People Key elements of running production units The essential part of any factory is people; garment • the performance of production management and manufacturing is a labour-intensive business, therefore supervisory staff effective organization and control of the work force is crucial • labour cost control monitoring to its success. In any factory this role is the responsibility • work methods 20 APPAREL INDIA
Intelligence FASHION of production managers of varying levels of seniority, and • How much production is lost because operators are supervisors. It is therefore necessary to consider: working to low performances as they either have no incentive to work, or do not have the ability to • How well are the operators performing? perform due to the lack of skills, or are working to • Do they know the levels of performance they should an inadequate work supply or target? achieve? • Do managers and supervisors know their roles and Equal production for all operations might responsibilities? not be a perfect balance • Have their roles been clearly defined in a job specification? A major cause of lost production is operators working down to • Are Key Performance Indicators (KPIs) used and inadequate targets or work supply. If supervisors collect two does the labour cost control system given clear hourly output figures from each operation then the following feedback? should be noticed: When supervisors/operators dealing with shorter production • Does each operation in a production line produce runs (in sampling lines) deal with large production orders, exactly the same number of pieces as the previous their efficiencies might be affected. and next operations? If so, then this is not a perfect balance but operations and operators are working The question to be asked: down to their work feed. • If two or more operators are doing the same • Is the performance system flexible enough to operation do they all produce exactly the same provide necessary consideration to it? quantity every hour? If yes, then they are not working to maximum but instead sharing the work. Performance reviews should be held at set intervals to a • Do operations and sections produce their hourly specified format so that everyone involved knows exactly what and daily exactly same? If so, the target is wrong. is to happen and how it will be conducted. • Is the operation target being met but the operator(s) Achievements can be discussed, shortcomings appraised and are working to a low performance? In this case, the development plans agreed as required. balance is wrong! This situation will particularly An adequate planning of resources and a motivating payment inhibit the development of trainee workers. system also helps boosting the performance. The key is to ensure that operators are fully trained, have Following must be considered to do this: an incentive scheme that is both fair and transparent and have supervisors who are competent in production balancing • Is non achievement of production targets accepted techniques to ensure that sufficient work is available. by managers who consider absence or style change to be reasonable excuses instead of problems that should have been overcome? • Does the payment system motivate both direct and indirect workers? Is salary related to achievement? • How many “helpers” are present, what do they do, are they necessary or can their work be eliminated? • Do the people have the skill and knowledge to carry out their roles to the required standards? Lost Output Output is not only affected by the abilities of production managers and supervisors but the planning of orders and sourcing of materials. • How often are styles put onto the line without all of the components being available? • How much time is lost through operators waiting for work or machines to be mended? APPAREL INDIA 21
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