Shri Narendra modi focus on Skill, Scale and Speed; finds synergy with the AEPC management

 
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Shri Narendra modi focus on Skill, Scale and Speed; finds synergy with the AEPC management
Vol.02 Issue No.10, June 2014

RNI No. HARENG/2012/45083
Postal Regn. No.GRG/37/2012-2014

                                               Shri Santosh Kumar Gangwar
                                   Minister of State (Independent Charge) for Textiles

 Shri Narendra Modi
 Prime Minister of India

                                      Smt. Nirmala Sitharaman
                                      Commerce & Industry Minister
                                      (Independent Charge)

   Shri Narendra modi focus on Skill, Scale and
   Speed; finds synergy with the AEPC Management
Shri Narendra modi focus on Skill, Scale and Speed; finds synergy with the AEPC management
AEPC Participates in

                                 SOURCING
                                  MAGIC
                                                              at

                                        Las Vegas, U.S.A.
                                                 Date: 17-20 August, 2014

    Venue : Vegas Convention Centre, 3150 Paradise Road, 89109 Las Vegas, Nevada U.S.A

     Participation Charges :
   Sl.No.                      Particulars                                              Participation charges (Rs.)

    1       Participation charges of a 10' x 10' SQFT booth                                      Rs 3,20,000/-

    2           Early bird discount uptil 9th May, 2014
                                                                                                  Rs 10,000/-
                       (If entire amount is paid)

    3          Participation charges uptil 9th May, 2014                                        Rs. 3,10,000/-

    3          Participation charges after 9th May, 2014                                        Rs. 3,20,000/-

                  Participation charges for additional booth with the same company name : Rs. 3,80,000/- (without MAI grant)

                                  Women’s Wear       Men’s Wear    Kid’s Wear   Fashion Accessories

                                                  For further details:
                     K. S. Bisht, Joint Director (F&E), Apparel Export Promotion Council
Apparel House, Sector - 44, Gurgaon Contact No. +91-124 270 8156, Mobile: +91 9810527747 E-mail: kbisht@aepcindia.com
Shri Narendra modi focus on Skill, Scale and Speed; finds synergy with the AEPC management
Shri Narendra modi focus on Skill, Scale and Speed; finds synergy with the AEPC management
APPAREL                                                               INDIA

                                                                               Editorial advisory board

                                                                                   VIRENDER UPPAL
                                                                                   Chairman, AEPC

                                                                                    Sudhir Sekhri
                                                                                   Chairman
                                                                            Export Promotion, AEPC

                                                                                    Puneet Kumar
                                                                            Secretary General, AEPC

                                                                                    Sameer Pushp
                                                                                  Senior PRO, AEPC

                                                                                    Puneet Kumar
                                                                                         EDITOR

                                                                                      ANNOU IYER
                                                                                 EXECUTIVE EDITOR

                                                                   Printed by TrendLAB Fashion Publishing Pvt. Ltd.
                                                                   & Published by Apparel Export Promotion Council,
                                                                   sponsored by Govt. of India, Ministry of Textiles.
                                                                   Printed at Rakesh Press, A-22, Sector-68,
                                                                   Noida-201 301, Uttar Pradesh, India and Published
                                                                   at Apparel Export Promotion Council, Apparel House,
                                                                   Sector 44, Gurgaon, Delhi NCR, India.
                                                                   Editor: Puneet Kumar

                                                                                     Content & design

    CIFF, Copenhagen Fashion Fair is one of the largest
    Scandinavian fashion trade fairs that goes beyond the
    traditional fashion fairs. A meeting point of international    Registered Address: B-5, Anupam Plaza, Sri Aurobindo Marg,
    buyers and retailers the fair houses multiple brands under     Hauz Khas, New Delhi- 110016, India
    one roof and provides the visitors an exceptional shopping
    and trading experience. The latest edition of the fashion
                                                                          Editorial & ADVERTISING queries:
    fair is set to be organized from 3-6 Aug, 2014 at Bella
    Center, Copenhagen, Denmark. This year the edition will                        M: +91 9899762388
    run on Sunday too for the benefit of the local retailers and
    buyers in the region.
                                                                               E: apparelindia@trendlab.in

4   APPAREL INDIA
Shri Narendra modi focus on Skill, Scale and Speed; finds synergy with the AEPC management
CONTENTS
    06 Chairman’s Letter                                           34 Industry News
          Message from Shri Virender Uppal                              News from the Global Market

    08	AEPC INITIATIVES                                            42 AEPC EXPORT PERFORMANCE
          Information on the most recent                                Apparel Export buoyant in April 2014
          initiatives undertaken by AEPC
                                                                   44 COUNTRY FOCUS
    16	AEPC Pre-Budget                                                  Japan: India-Japan CEPA becoming catalyst
          Pre-Budget proposal to the Member Budget,                     for increasing apparel exports from India
          Central Board of Excise & Customs
                                                                   50 Blueprint 2014
    18 WTO UPDATES                                                      Salons & Fairs Review
          • Yemen to become 160th WTO member
          • Trade statistics show the least developed hit          52 MODAPRIMA
            more severely by global slowdown                            Salons & Fairs Review

    20 FASHION INTELLIGENCE                                        54 Heimtextil India
          Article on Cost Control - It is time to go “Back              Salons & Fairs Preview
          to the Basics ‘Ask Yourself’
                                                                   56 aePC NOTIFICATIONS
    24 DISHA UPDATES                                                     Updates on Government Notifications
          Views on Jaipur DISHA Cluster 2014
                                                                   59 APPAREL INDIA
    25 ATDC UPDATES                                                     Advertising & Subscription Details
          ATDC as ‘Knowledge Partner’ for
          World Skill Competition 2015
                                                                   61 EVENT PLANNER
                                                                        AEPC's Export Promotion Planner for the
    26 RETAIL News                                                      2014-15
          News from the Retail Market in India

    32 TEXTILE News
          News from the Textile Industry in India

                                                    Published by

                                 Apparel Export Promotion Council
                                 Apparel House, Sector 44, Gurgaon, Delhi NCR, India
                   Tel: 91 124 2708000-03 Fax: 91 124 2708004-05 Website: www.aepcindia.com

Apparel India is a publication of the Apparel Export Promotion Council (AEPC). AEPC and APPAREL INDIA trademarks
are owned by AEPC. All rights reserved worldwide. The Council does not take any responsibility about the credit worthiness
or any other particulars of the firms featured in this monthly.
Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. AEPC as well as TrendLab Fashion
Publishing Pvt Ltd. do not take responsibility for unsolicited material. Views expressed in Apparel India are not necessarily
those of AEPC and TrendLab Fashion Publishing Pvt Ltd.
Apparel India welcomes comments, suggestions or complaints if any. Email us, with your full name and address to
apparelindia@trendlab.in

                                                                                                           APPAREL INDIA        5
Shri Narendra modi focus on Skill, Scale and Speed; finds synergy with the AEPC management
Letter from
    the Chairman                                                     APPAREL                                       INDIA

                                                                 Friends, you are aware that the Hon’ble Prime Minister
                                                                 has entrusted the Ministry of Textiles to Shri Santosh
                                                                 Kumar Gangwar and Ministry of Commerce & Industry
                                                                 to Smt. Nirmla Sitharaman, both of whom carry the same
                                                                 vision and commitment to boost garment exports from
                                                                 India. AEPC's delegation recently met and congratulated
                                                                 the new Ministers and briefed them about AEPC's role, as
                                                                 an apex export promotion body for garments in India and
                                                                 also highlighted the core issues of the Apparel Industry.
                                                                 The issues bothering the industry were highlighted before
                                                                 both of them.

                                                                 You would be glad to know that India now stands second in
                                                                 the global textiles exports. India's share in Global Textiles
                                                                 has increased by 17.5% in the year 2013 compared to the
                                                                 previous year. Currently India's Textiles Exports to the
                                                                 world is US$ 40.2 billion. This growth is phenomenal as
                                                                 the Global Textiles growth rate is only 4.7% compared to
                                                                 India as it has registered the growth of 23% beating China
                                                                 and Bangladesh in exports growth, which has registered
                                                                 11.4% and 15.4%, respectively.

                                                                  This growth in Global Textiles Exports from India is
                                                                  largely attributed to the growth in the Apparel sector
                                                                  which accounts for the almost 43% of the export of textiles
                                                                  from India. Our ranking in global apparel exports has
                                                                  also improved from 8th position in 2012 to 6th position
                                                                  in 2013. Among the top five global clothing suppliers,
                                                                  India's growth in apparel exports growth during 2013
                                                                  was the highest at 21.8%, with only Vietnam registering
    My dear fellow exporters,                                    a higher growth. Apparel exports from India accounts for
                                                                 3.7% of share in the Global export of Apparel.
    Textiles and Clothing Industry, like everyone, is very
    enthused on the occasion of Shri Narendra Modi, taking       The council has also made its pre-budget submission to
    over as Prime Minister of India, especially at a time        the Member Budget in the Ministry of Finance and made
    when Indian apparel industry needs a lot of support from     a detailed presentation. This issue of Apparel India has
    the Government of India. I firmly believe that under his     the detailed account captured for the Member Exporters
    visionary and legendary leadership, India would certainly    to read. Under my Chairmanship a team of AEPC’s
    scale new heights. In my letter written to Hon'ble PM,       officials made the representation on Duty drawback to
    I have also highlighted the role of AEPC, with 7000          Joint Secretary, Drawback. The Council pressed for the
    member exporters across India, who have achieved an          simplification of drawback schedule, its classifications,
    export of US$ 14.94 billion in the year 2013-14 and have     provide extra window for state and local levies, increase
    a share of almost 43% of the country's textiles exports.     the entitlement of Export Promotion Council from 3% to
    I have also outlined our role in training huge number of     5% under EPC Scheme of Councils and drawback claimed
    people through ATDC and IAM. I am confident that under       should be made available under advance licence if any
    his able leadership, AEPC would get due attention and        of the inputs are used in export production are procured
    shall be provided with conducive export policies so as       domestically other than the imported inputs.
    to achieve the export target of US$ 17 billion, set by the
    Ministry of Textiles, Government of India for the year       AEPC has asked for the removal of restriction which
    2014-15.                                                     limits the import of sample fabric up to a maximum 500

6    APPAREL INDIA
Shri Narendra modi focus on Skill, Scale and Speed; finds synergy with the AEPC management
Letter from
the Chairman                                                      APPAREL                                         INDIA

meters, in one financial year, under the scheme of duty       submission to the Government on the list of our demands.
free import of 3% Export Performance Certificate of
Ministry of Finance (under the EPC Schemes).The limit         Under Skill Development - Apparel Training and Design
of 500 meters is absolutely insufficient for R&D and trial    Centre (ATDC) is doing a wonderful job and has grown
runs. The limit was 200 meters during 2002 and was later      in scope and reach. ATDC which commenced operations
increased to 500 meters during year 2003. We are hopeful      in December 1995, has today 195 shop-floor training
that Ministry of Textiles would support us and our case       centers, over 23 States, covering 32 centres in South India
would be considered for upward revision.                      (major clusters Chennai, Tirupur, Dharampuri, Perampuri,
                                                              Paramakudi, Erode, Salem,), 39 in North (Gurgaon, Delhi,
As part of the Export Promotion activities for 2014-15,       Faridabad, Noida, Jaipur and Ludhiana), 33 in East
Council shall be facilitating direct marketing of garments    (Kolkata, Bhubaneshwar, Ranchi, Patna, Imphal) and rest
and has planned multiple fairs in markets across the world    in West (Mumbai, Indore, Surat, Raipur, Nagpur, Bhopal).
viz, USA, Japan, Hong Kong, Germany, Netherlands,             ATDC has trained 1,17,958 workers so far. Institute
Australia, Spain, France, Brazil, Uruguay and Chile. It is    of Apparel Management, Gurgaon is in operation for
also ready with plans to hold important international fairs   higher education since Aug 2007 and has rolled-out 317
and events such as India International Garment Fairs,         professionals till date.
Tex-Trends India, India Market Days, India Knit Fair and
Source Zone in India. I request all members to take full      Friends, despite the slow recovery in USA and EU, our
advantage of these opportunities and participate in huge      biggest traditional markets, and a slowdown in non-
numbers.                                                      traditional markets coupled with sustained cost of
                                                              inflationary inputs, our Industry has done very well for itself
Last month I, along with Secretary Textiles, was in           and is actually itching to do more. Increase in labour costs
Tirupur for the inauguration of Knitwear Technology           in China and non-compliance of large number of factories
Mission. The KTM Centre was inaugurated by Smt.               in Bangladesh have provided India a big opportunity to
Zohra Chatterji, IAS, Secretary, Ministry of Textiles,        fill up the void created by these happenings. A small push
Government of India on 6th May 2014. The 38th edition         from the Government will help India get more business as
of India Knit Fair, featuring Spring-Summer Collection        Buyers are looking towards India as a safe and reliable
2015, organized by Apparel Export Promotion Council           option for the Sourcing. New Government at the center
in collaboration with Tirupur Exporters' Association          has ignited hope and expectations among all of us. Lets
under the umbrella of India Knit Fair Association, was        together make India the top most destination for garment
also inaugurated by Secretary Textiles Tirupur on from        sourcing in the world.
7th May, 2014 in presence of Dr. A Sakthivel, Chairman-
IKFA-KTM and Shri Puneet Kumar, Secretary General,
AEPC. On the sidelines of the Fair, an Exporters Meet         Virender Uppal
was also organised to get the inputs from the Industry for    Chairman AEPC

                                                                                                          APPAREL INDIA         7
Shri Narendra modi focus on Skill, Scale and Speed; finds synergy with the AEPC management
AEPC Initiatives
    AEPC welcomes new Textiles Minister Shri
    Santosh Kumar Gangwar
       Profile of the Textile Minister

    Shri Santosh Kumar Gangwar is the new
    Minister of State (independent charge) for
    Ministry of Textiles and also Minister of State
    for Parliamentary affairs, Water resources,
    River Development and Ganga rejuvenation.
    (born 1 November 1948) is a Member of
    Parliament (16th Lok Sabha), former
    minister of state in Government of India and
    a leader of Bharatiya Janata Party (BJP).
    He has been Member of Parliament for the
    city of Bareilly since 1989 till date (except
    2009-2014). He was also the chief whip of         Shri Santosh Kumar Gangwar

    the party in 14th Lok Sabha.                      Shri Virender Uppal, Chairman AEPC, congratulates
    Shri Gangwar is associated with social work       Prime Minister Shri Narendra Modi and his team of
                                                      Ministers
    and active politics for over three decades.
    He served as a member of the Uttar Pradesh        Shri Virender Uppal, Chairman AEPC, congratulates Prime
    State BJP Working Committee and held the          Minister, Shri Narendra Modi and New Textiles Ministers Shri
                                                      Santosh Kumar Gangwar and Commerce & Industry Minister
    position of General Secretary of the Uttar
                                                      Smt. Nirmala Sitharaman.
    Pradesh BJP Unit in 1996.
    He was Minister of State for Petroleum
    and Natural Gas with additional charge of
    Parliament Affairs in 13th Lok Sabha. Prior
    to this, Shri Gangwar was Minister of State
    of Science and Technology with additional
    charge of Parliamentary Affairs during
    October and November 1999.
    Currently, Shri Gangwar is Member of
    Parliament in 16th Lok Sabha. On 26
    May 2014, Shri Gangwar has taken the
    Oath for MoS Cabinet in Narendra Modi's
    Government.
    He is survived by one son and one daughter.
                                                      Shri Virender Uppal, Chairman AEPC

8   APPAREL INDIA
Shri Narendra modi focus on Skill, Scale and Speed; finds synergy with the AEPC management
Initiatives                     AEPC
Shri Uppal, in his letter to Shri Modi, extended his warm          with blueprint for the textiles industry.” Shri Gangwar was
wishes and hoped that India will progress under his regime.        briefed by the senior officers of the Ministry about the
The new Government under his leadership has ignited hope           issues and developments in the textiles sector.
and expectations that the aspirations of the Industry will be
duly met to boost the garment exports from India.
Shri Uppal expressed his happiness, over Shri Santosh
Kumar Gangwar to be entrusted with the Textiles Minister
responsibility and stated that, “Please accept my heartiest
congratulations on your assumption of the office of the Textiles
Minister of India. I hope that the new Government under
your able leadership will further advance and strengthen
the garment export sector, to which India attaches high
importance because of the highest employment potential and
power to accelerate manufacturing.”
Shri Sudhir Sekhri, Chairman Export Promotion also
congratulated the Textiles Minister. In his message he said, “It
gives me great pleasure to extend my warmest congratulations
to you on your appointment as Textiles Minister of the
Republic of India. The beginning of this new phase in Indian
politics and the start of work by your government come at a
crucial time when this industry needs the support. I am also
certain that I can rely on your commitment to carry on the
process of necessary reforms so that together the government       Smt. Nirmala Sitharaman
and AEPC are able to cope with the challenges posed by the
crisis of global slowdown for restoring growth and jobs for         Nirmala Sitharaman Assumes Charge as MOS
millions of Indians.”                                               (Independent Charge) Commerce and Industry
Soon after the allocation of the Ministries, Shri Virender
Uppal took a delegation of AEPC and met the New Textiles            Smt. Nirmala Sitharaman after assuming her charge as
and Commerce Minister and handed them the list of AEPC              Minister of State (Independent Charge) Commerce and
demands. Chairman also briefed the two Ministers about              Industry, spoke to media persons.
AEPC and the work it does for boosting the garment exports          Speaking to the media after taking charge, Smt. Sitharaman
from India.                                                         said that “there are lots of things happening in this
                                                                    Department which should be taken forward with greater
Shri Santosh Gangwar, soon after assuming charge as                 enthusiasm given the impetus with which the Prime Minister
MoS (Independent Charge) Ministry of Textiles, spoke                Shri Narendra Modi would like the Department to function.”
to media                                                            She added that she feels “very humbled” to have been given
                                                                    the responsibility. She emphasized that she “will give best
Shri Santosh Kumar Gangwar after assuming charge as                 of my time” to improve economic and commercial ties with
Minister of State (Independent Charge) in the Ministry              India’s trading partners. Smt. Sitharaman said that she
of Textiles, spoke to media. Shri Gangwar said that the             will work to “improve on Indian exports, and ensure that
textiles sector has a huge potential of providing large             job opportunities emerge because that’s a very important
number of jobs to the vulnerable section of the society.            plank on which we have contested the recent elections. The
Specifically speaking on the issues plaguing the sector in          economic situation in this country demands that more jobs
Uttar Pradesh, he said that local artisans need the push            be provided for the young, talented, well-educated and even
that will unlock the strengths of the region. “Zari Zardozi,        the semi-skilled and unskilled people of India.” On the issue
carpet and many other local crafts have huge export                 of Foreign Direct Investment (FDI), she said that there will
potential and if proper attention is paid this can be a strong      not be a “blanket approach” for every sector, and that each
source of improvement of economy and employment.”                   and every sector would be looked in a “very, very calibrated
Commenting on the Manjha industry of Bareilly, Shri                 fashion”. On FDI in multi-brand retail, she said that is “not
Gangwar said that “due to wrong policies, the Manjha                best opened up now because the way in which medium and
industry has suffered and China has benefitted from the             small sized traders or small farmers have not been adequately
situation. Ten thousand people were rendered jobless.”              empowered… that immediately if you open up the floodgates
He also added that “we will not take long in coming out             of FDI in multi-brand retail, it may affect them.”

                                                                                                               APPAREL INDIA        9
Shri Narendra modi focus on Skill, Scale and Speed; finds synergy with the AEPC management
AEPC Initiatives
      38th India Knit Fair inaugurated at
      Tirupur
     The 38th edition of India Knit Fair featuring Spring-Summer Collection 2015
     organized by Apparel Export Promotion Council (Sponsored by Ministry of Textiles,
     Govt. of India) in collaboration with Tirupur Exporters’ Association under the
     umbrella of India Knit Fair Association was held at IKFA Complex, Tirupur from
     7th – 9th May, 2014...

     Smt. Zohra Chatterji inaugurates the 38th India Knit fair in the presence of Dr. A. Sakthivel, Chairman-IKFA-KTM; Shri Puneet Kumar,
     Secretary General AEPC and Shri P.N. Prasad, General Manager General Manager, Mid- Corporate Group, SBI

     The India Knit Fair was inaugurated by Smt. Zohra Chatterji,             the year business. She also said an integrated framework for
     IAS., Secretary, Ministry of Textiles, Govt. of India, in the            training (based on the need) has been formulated to address the
     presence of Shri Virender Uppal, Chairman, Apparel Export                trained manpower requirements of textiles and related segments
     Promotion Council; Dr. A Sakthivel, Chairman-IKFA-KTM; Shri              and the ministry proposed to operate projects in the 12th Plan
     Puneet Kumar, IAS.; Secretary General, AEPC; Shri PN Prasad              with an outlay of Rs.1,900 crores, with a target to train 15 lakhs
     General Manager; Mid-corporate Group, SBI. The Executive                 persons by 2017. Dr. A Sakthivel, Chairman-IKFA & KTM in
     Committee Members of Tirupur Exporters’ Association, Leading             his briefing to the press, he has pointed out that India Knit Fair
     Trade Members, Officials of State Bank of India, Office bearers          has assumed its significance in world trade, as the platform to
     of IKFA (India Knit Fair Association), Exhibitors, Exporters and         service Fashion Knitwear from India. He also expressed that
     Overseas buyers were among others who graced the occasion.               there is a good demand for manmade/synthetic yarn products and
     Smt. Zohra Chatterji, Secretary Textiles, congratulated the              invited the Tirupur industry to make use of Knitwear Technology
     garment sector for its contribution to the textile industry. She         Mission, a project set up by AEPC which was inaugurated prior to
     said that garment sector, being at the top end of the textile sector     India Knit Fair by Smt. Zohra Chatterji, IAS Secretary General,
     contributes nearly 50% of the total export of textile products from      GOI. He added that if the situation continues with forging new
     our Country. While addressing the press and media, the Textile           markets, the growth would double in the next three years and
     Secretary told that the textile ministry will soon come out with         the export from Tirupur hub can reach Rs. 36,000 crores from
     a hire purchase scheme for machinery under Technology Up-                the present Rs. 18,000 crores. He has appealed to the Ministry
     gradation Fund Scheme (TUFS). She lauded the new technologies            for its support to achieve the goal and fulfill the expectation of
     adapted by the Tirupur based manufactures. She also appreciated          exporters on various policies and subsidies. Shri Virendra Uppal,
     the efforts taken by AEPC for skill development and initiatives          Chairman, AEPC and Shri Puneet Kumar, Secretary of AEPC
     taken for developing manmade fibre garments to have round                and various officials took part in the meeting.

10    APPAREL INDIA
Initiatives                        AEPC

Smt. Zohra Chatterji giving insights on the new Hire-Purchase Scheme-TUFS at the AEPC-KTM and Exporters Meet

 Profile of exhibits                                                  sleeping bags and garment dyed categories, 3D effects prints,
 An array of apparel categories for the 2015 season were              sublimation prints, natural dyes, and value added apparels
 showcased by the exhibitors which include men, women,                were also displayed. A stall put up by Knitwear Technology
 and children wears, knitted fleece garments, full sleeve knits,      Mission of AEPC showcased specialty fabrics and innovative
 sportswear, work wear, leisure wear, night wear and many more        apparels especially made from manmade fibres like polyster,
 for all age groups. Knitted high fashion apparels with brilliant     nylon etc., through warp knits for sportswear, swim wear and
 shades, cold pigment and digital prints, crack printed, plated       alike. Special finished garments like wicking finish, acid
 jersey, performance sportswear garments with wicking finish,         wash, stone wash, silicon wash, flame retardant, anti-microbial
 terry knit, linen based, nappy look, camouflage prints and air       finish were the displayed highlights in the fair. A total of 56
 vortex yarn garments attracted the buyers. Double faced, stencil     leading Exporters from Tirupur, Chennai, Coimbatore, Kolkata,
 spray designs; 100% bamboo, linen, wool, flat knits, acrylic,        Mumbai, New Delhi Bhopal, Gujarat, Haryana (Palwal) had put
 modal, warp knit garments, swim wear, tennis wear, children’s        up their stalls in the fair.

Smt. Zohra Chatterji addressing the media with Shri Dr. A Sakthivel, Chairman-IKFA-KTM; Shri Puneet Kumar, Secretary General AEPC

                                                                                                                   APPAREL INDIA        11
AEPC Initiatives

     Models showcasing the exclusive Spring/Summer collections presented by the participants at the 38th India Knit Fair

      Fashion Show                                                            Visited Buyers
      Models walked on the ramp with collections the Spring/                  Buyers/Buying Agents were satisfied with the good quality
      Summer collections during the Fashion Show organized on 6-8             design and collections displayed in the Fair. A contingent of
      May 2014. Stall awards were distributed to the outstanding              Buyers from Belgium, Honduras (South America), USA, Spain,
      exhibitors.                                                             Hong Kong, Valencia, Tokyo (Japan), Israel, Uruguay (South
      Shri Santhanagopalan, AGM, State Bank of India, Tirupur and             America), Panama, Dubai (UAE), London (UK), Canada,
      Shri K. Vasanthkumar, Co-ordinator, IKFA were presented Best            Australia, Italy, Spain, France have visited the fair and are
      Exhibitor Awards and appreciation certificates to the following         keen on increasing their sourcing of Knitwear from India. Buyers
      exhibitors on behalf of India Knit Fair Association.                    from Uruguay, Israel, Japan, Honduras visited the fair for the
                                                                              first time and expressed satisfaction on the collections on display
        M/S. Eastman Exports Global Clothing (P) Ltd, Tirupur                 and doing business with India. In total, 48 Buyers from different
        Best Exhibit                                                          countries and 105 Buying Houses /Agents visited the Fair. On
                                                                              interaction with the participants, it seemed good numbers of
        M/S. Eureka Clothing Company:
                                                                              enquiries were received in this fair. Some participants have also
        First Runner-Up
                                                                              booked spot orders. Overall, it is expected that total business
        M/S. Clifton Export Private Limited 		                                generated through this fair will be to the tune of around Rs. 300
        Second Runner-Up                                                      crores. IKFA gratefully acknowledge the active participation of
                                                                              exhibitors, interest shown by the buyers and all stakeholders.
        M/S. Bhaskar Denim, Bhopal:
                                                                              This three day event ended with good business generation.
        Consolation Certificate

       AEPC to organize Buyer-Seller meet in Spain
     Apparel Export Promotion Council has been organizing Buyer Seller Meet in Spain since
     the year 2008. Based on the excellent response received during previous BSM’s Apparel
     Export Promotion Council has decided to organize Buyer-Seller Meet in Spain again in
     September 2014...
     Spain has been a very attractive market for Indian Apparel.             ensembles, jackets, dresses, blouses, shawls, scarves, mufflers,
     Main items of export to Spain are– T-Shirts, singlets, ladies suits,    underpants, infant wear and clothing accessories etc. India exports

12    APPAREL INDIA
Initiatives                          AEPC
garments of worth US$ 595 million to Spain, which accounts for                      Venue                      Date                   Days
4.1% share in Spain’s total garment imports of US$ 14304 million             Catalonia Barcelona
                                                                                                         Set-up Day:- 3rd
and has tremendous export potential.                                         Plaza                       September, 2014       (Wednesday)
                                                                             Plaza Espana, 6-8           BSM Days:- 4 – 5      (Thursday / Friday)
  AEPC                                                                       08014 Barcelona             September, 2014

     organizes                                                               HOTEL MELIA
                                                                             AVENIDA DE
      Buyer-Seller meet                                                      AMERICA
                                                                                                         Set-up Day:- 7th
                                                                                                         September, 2014       (Sunday)
                                                                                                                               (Monday/ Tuesday)
                                                                                                         BSM Days:- 8 – 9
                          in   Spain                                         C/ Juan Ignacio Luca
                                                                             de Tena 36                  September, 2014
                                                                             28027 Madrid

                            Schedule                                         A dedicated Website will be launched for online registration
The Buyer Seller Meet has been arranged at Barcelona and                     of the buyers and the exhibitors company profiles will also
Madrid on the following dates.                                               be uploaded on the website of the BSM.

  India ranks second in Global Textiles
  Exports: Chairman Aepc
India has improved its ranking as per the recent data released by ‘UN Comtrade’
in Global Textiles as well as Apparel Exports. In Global Textiles Exports, India now
stands at second position beating its competitors like Italy, Germany and Bangladesh,
with China still retaining its top position...
Shri Virender Uppal, Chairman AEPC, expressed his happiness over             Chairman AEPC while lauding the efforts of the Apparel exporters,
this impressive growth and stated that, “Despite having slow recovery        conveyed his concerns also that while the industry is actually itching
in USA and EU, our biggest traditional markets as well as prevailing         to do more, stressed that, “The availability of speciality fabric is a big
global slowdown coupled with sustained cost of inflationary inputs,          bottleneck for which AEPC has been aggressively demanding 5% duty
we made the best possible efforts to reach here. Government policy of        scrip for the imports of fabrics. It must be considered favourably by the
diversification of market and product base has helped us and we ventured     new government to boost India’s Apparel exports. Garment exporters
into the newer markets, which paid huge dividends. We also leveraged         may be permitted to import it with 5% duty scrip on the input, so as to
our raw material strengths and followed sustained better compliance          increase exports and optimally use to the fullest extent our potential.
practices which attracted the buyers and international brands across         The rising interest rate is another issue which hampers growth for
the globe to source from India. India’s share in Global Textiles has         which AEPC once again has put in its request to the Government for a
increased by 17.5% in the year 2013 compared to the previous year.           Separate chapter for pre and post shipment export credit at fixed rate of
Currently India’s Textiles Exports to the world is US$ 40.2 billion. This    7.0% interest, as was done in the past also to the apparel export sector
growth is phenomenal as the global Textiles growth rate is only 4.7%         and treat Readymade Garment as the priority sector lending. As the
compared to India as it has registered the growth of 23% beating China       Government is contemplating new Union Budget and Foreign Trade
and Bangladesh which has registered 11.4% and 15.4%, respectively.           policy, I earnestly request the government to concede these two demands
Total Global Textiles Exports is to the tune of US$ 772 billion with India   of RMG sector utmost priority. Increasing labour cost in China, non-
commanding 5.2% of the share. This growth in the increase in share of        compliance of large number of factories in Bangladesh provide India a
the Textiles Exports from India is largely attributed to the growth in the   big opportunity in view of its relative advantage, risk appetite of Indian
Apparel and Clothing sector as it accounts for almost 43% of the share       entrepreneurs and a small push from the government may help India to
alone. The Apparel Exports ranking has also improved from 8th position       get more business as overseas buyers are looking at India as safe and
in 2012 to 6th position in 2013. India’s Apparel exports was to the          reliable option for sourcing. But to capture the space in market left by
tune of US$ 15.7 billion in 2013, as against US$ 12.9 billion in 2012.       China and Bangladesh, we have to be competitive in pricing, apart from
Among the top five global clothing suppliers except for the Vietnam;         meeting strict timelines, better quality delivery by Indian exporters and
India’s Apparel exports growth was highest registering 21.8% growth          therefore, government agencies active support is very crucial. AEPC is
during the year 2013. Apparel Exports from India accounts for 3.7% of        pushing in this direction to seek export friendly enabling environment
share in the Global Readymade Garment Exports. Shri Virender Uppal,          from the government, Shri Uppal added.

                                                                                                                                 APPAREL INDIA            13
AEPC Initiatives
        Source Zone Fabric & Accessories Fair
      After the success of Source Zone in 2010, 2011 and 2012, Apparel Export Promotion Council is
     organizing the 5th Edition of Source Zone from 12th-14th November, 2014 at Apparel House,
     Sector – 44, Institutional Area, Gurgaon – 122003, Haryana.
     Source Zone offers apparel exporters a great opportunity to source their requirements for
     fabrics, laces, trims, embellishments and accessories under one roof. Leading domestic suppliers
     from across India and international suppliers will exhibit at this Show. The buzz for Source
     Zone is created within India and abroad through excessive marketing campaign...

                                                                   12-14 November 2014
                                                                   Apparel House, Gurgaon

     Over the years, the show has generated positive response and high           accessories and services (ready-made garment
     satisfaction levels amongst both suppliers and buyers. The varied           manufacturers/ exporters)
     product-mix, coupled with innovative products, has been a much             One to one interaction with the biggest garment
     appreciated factor by buyers & suppliers. Last edition saw 913              manufacturers and exporters
     buyers and buying agents Levis, Bharti Wal-Mart, Li&Fung, Triburg,         The only International show in India for manufacturers
     Reliance Trends, Benetton, Impulse, M & S to name a few.                    and suppliers of fabric, accessories and services
                                                                                 organized by AEPC.
                                  Fabrics                                       More than 7000 members of AEPC are potential buyers
                                                                                 of Fabrics, Accessories and Trims.
     Fabrics of viscose, velvet, georgette, cotton, silk, embroidered, ploy/    US$ 40 billion garment industry of export and domestic
     cotton blend, Terry toweling fabric, Wrap knitted fabric, Lycra blend,      source fabrics, accessories and trims for manufacturing
     100% linen in yarn dyed and printed fabric, in woven and knits for          garments.
     men’s, women’s and kid’s wear.                                             Price of the stall has been reduced to benefit SME's
                                                                                Airfare reimbursement for exhibitors participating from
               Trimmings & Embellishments                                        outside Delhi and NCR.
                                                                                Best Display Awards for Fabric & Accessories.
     Schiffli embroidery, crochet laces, heat transfers sticker, panty          Help Desk for administrative support
     hose, socks, logos, jewellery, metal trims, draw cords, raw cords,         Personalized escort for important visitors.
     wadding.
                                                                                                 Business Potential
                                 Services
                                                                                India consumes fabrics worth US$ 12 billion annually.
     Suppliers of CAD/CAM systems and software; design studios;                 India consumes accessories worth US$ 3 billion each year
     testing and QC; consultants; logistics and trade media, fashion            India has over 50,000 apparel manufacturing units
     publications etc.
                                                                                              Who Must Participate
                               Highlights
                                                                               Manufacturers and exporters of Fabrics (natural and man-made)
      Opportunity for buyers to analyze the widest spectrum of existing       as well as manufacturers/ exporters of accessories for apparel
       and emerging products and services at the best rates                    and supplier of services related to the textile and apparel industry
      Provides access to more than 10,000 buyers of fabric,                   must participate in the Source Zone Fair.

14    APPAREL INDIA
Initiatives                        AEPC

                Benefits to Exhibitors
 Enhancing and revitalizing one’s brand & network
 Exploring and tapping global markets and trends, interact and
  trade with thousands of top buyers/decision takers at one place
 Focused market strategy for better business conversion
 Grab bulk orders at competitive rates
 Finalize long term contracts and credit policies
 Network and establish one-on-one contact with India's top exporters
 Maintaining customer relationships and meeting with prospects

            Benefits to Visiting Buyers                                  Local and international retail chains
                                                                         Departmental stores
 Opportunity to analyze and choose from a wide spectrum of              Apparel brands
  existing and emerging products and services at one place               Fashion designers and merchandisers
 Top executives and decision makers of supplying firms at a             Design studios
  common platform                                                        Fashion Institutes
 Analyze prevailing rates in the market                                 Trade body representatives
 Finalize bulk requirements                                             Trade media
 Negotiate best rates for bulk orders
 Utilize the negotiated rates to reduce manufacturing costs and        Aggressive marketing for this event is being done by AEPC.
  thereby remain competitive in global market                           Council expect leading buying agents, buyers, local & domestic
                                                                        brand owners and exporters to attend.
                      Target Buyers                                     The success of this event hinges as much on the profile of the
                                                                        exhibitors as it does on the profile of the visitors attending. This
 Fabric importers, distributors and wholesalers                        show is being organized for trade visitors only, AEPC will enable
 Garment exporters and manufacturers                                   companies to interact and conduct business in a conducive and
 Buying houses and Buying agents                                       facilitative environment.

                                                                                                                        APPAREL INDIA          15
AEPC Pre-Budget
     AEPC submits its Pre-Budget proposal
     to the Member Budget, Central Board of
     Excise & Customs
     A presentation was made by the AEPC before Shri Kaushal Srivastava (Member) Budget, CBEC wherein
     detailed proposal including suggestions/recommendations with respect to the Tax Issues in Apparel Export
     Sector was submitted. AEPC team was led by, Shri HKL Magu, Chairman (F & B), Shri Puneet Kumar,
     Secretary General and Shri Vijay Mathur, ASG AEPC...
     RMG export sector contributes 4.8% share in the India's all commodity
     exports and ranks 7th in foreign exchange earnings for India in FY
     2013-14; predominantly comprising of SMEs which is critical for the
     job creation and spurring manufacturing in India. RMG sector is the
     largest employment provider in manufacturing sector. As per 12th
     Plan report of the Working Group of Ministry of Textiles, RMG, sector
     provides 11.22 million jobs, (24.83%) of total employment in textile
     sector. The 12th Plan report of Working Group of Ministry of Textiles
     has set a target of 18% annual growth for RMG exports during 12th
     plan; as against 15.17% growth for textile sector as a whole.

                       Target for the 12th Plan

     1. The plan prescribes target of US$ 32.03 bn. for RMG in 2016-17,
        which is highest among all verticals of textile value chain
                                                                                   benefits under section 35 (R&D) and section 80JJAA of IT Act,
     Constraints
                                                                                   1961 (minimum workers/days)
     2. Limited fabric availability, particularly in non-cotton segments       12. The manpower engaged by the contractors in the exporters
         and specialty segments-need to step up easier supply systems              premises, who are involved in the manufacturing activity in the
     3. Limited availability of trimming and embellishments domestically           terms of section 2(f) of Central Excise Act 1944, meant for export,
         - need to step up easier supply systems                                   not fully exempted from the perview of Service Tax
     4. No mechanism for refund of state levies, octroi, electricity duties    13. The Service of “Cash Management” rendered by the overseas
         etc. on garment exports                                                   Forward Agent (FA) not covered by the heading “Banking and
     5. All taxes except customs duty get exported in the absence of All           Other Financial Services” and thus not liable to payment of
         Industry Duty Drawback, in case when fabric inputs are procured           service tax, causing avoidable litigation to exporters
         through imports duty free                                             14. AEPC is an export promotion body and is liable to pay service
     6. Nil/partial refund of service tax on account of issue of nexus of          tax for providing services to its members for export promotion
         services with exports like services rendered by Container Freight         activities – costly services to exporters
         Station (CFS), Clearing House Agents (CHA), Terminal Handling
         Charges (THC) etc.                                                                   Proposal on Direct Taxation
     7. Service tax on Govt. grants to EPCs, hits even the Govt. support
         leading to unnecessary paper work and transaction                     		1.      Amendment in Section 35 of IT Act 1961
     8. High cost of pre and post shipment export credit rate, since the          Current Position: deductions in respect of expenditure
         introduction of Base Rate of credit in place of Benchmark Prime         on scientific research under Sub Section 35 (1) (ii), an amount
         Lending Rate in 2010.                                                   equal to one and three-fourth times of any sum paid to a research
     9. In-competitiveness of our garment export industry due to high            association provided, that such association, university, college or
         cost of manufacturing on account of loading of state levies, octroi     other institution for the purpose of this clause-
         and electricity duty etc. not refunded at all.                        • Is for the time being approved, in accordance with the guidelines,
     10. High cost of manufacturing due to high interest rates on export         in the manner and subject to such conditions as may be prescribed;
         credit; erosion of capital base                                         and
     11. Garment export industry not able to take advantage of existing        • such association, university, college or other institution is specified

16    APPAREL INDIA
Pre-Budget                                 AEPC
   as such, by notification in the Official Gazette, by the Central             involved by raising the ceiling to 5%]
   Government                                                             (ii) Expansion of eligible items (Tissue paper for packing, dyestuffs,
   Suggested Amendment: The benefit of this section should                      adhesives, artificial fur, and silicon crystal packed bag for
   be extended to readymade garment sample making to the extent of              absorbing the moisture) should be added in the duty free list of
   5% of the turnover of that assessee in the same assessment year.             trimming and embellishments:
                                                                               [At present 36 items of trimmings and embellishments are allowed
                                                                                and if these 5 items are added, the same shall be well within the
Justification                                                                   rate of entitlement
                                                                          (iii) In above said entitlement under S.no. 282(y) of the notification no.
I. The garment making activity in-fact is an outcome of scientific
                                                                                12/2012-custom dated March 17, 2012, “sample fabric of total
     research.
                                                                                length up to 500 meter imported during one financial year” is
II. It involves creation of fabric, design, pattern and colors which
                                                                                allowed, which should be amended to read only “sample fabrics”.
     vary according to need
                                                                                The same shall be well within the rate of entitlement.
III. Samples are made for 8 to 10 fashion seasons which are done
     in house and incurs extra cost on raw material, capital and man
                                                                                          All Industry Duty Drawback
     power
IV. Further, since the coverage of this section would be to domestic as   1. Full neutralization of state levies, electricity duty, octroi, currently
     well as export industry, it would be fully WTO compliant.               charged to exporters but not disbursed under All Industry Duty
     AEPC proposes Amendment in Section 80JJAA of IT Act, 1961               Drawback.
     Current Position: deduction is allowed for the amount equal          2. Disbursement of excise portion of all industry duty drawback
     to 30% of “additional wages” paid to new regular workmen (in            wherever fabric, which is around 50% component of garment,
     excess of 100 workmen)for workers employed for 300 days ,               is imported duty free and other raw material/consumables are
     subject to condition about nature of employment                         procured duty paid domestically under corresponding value
     Suggested Amendment: employed for 300 days may be                       addition.
     amended to 150 days and workmen should also include contact/         3. Simplification in classification of garments at the exit point for the
     casual workers                                                          purpose of payment of duty drawback

Justification                                                                                Proposal on Service Tax

                                                                          1. Waiving of Service Tax on taxable service in sub clause (zzze) of
I. The RMG industry is seasonal                                              clause (105) of Section 65 of Finance Act on services may be
II. There is no business for Autumn/Winter season.                           provided to specified associations under (zzze) of Finance Act for
III. The factories are functional only for 6 to 8 months, therefore do       the period of viz. 16.06.2005 to 06.07.2009
     not qualify for 300 days of working to a regular employees,          2. EPCs should be exempted from service tax payment on organizing
IV. Tax Benefit for the training of the unemployed youth in garment          exhibition in domestic market
     sector with decisive employment                                      3. Garment export sector should be brought under the negative list of
3. Commission paid to foreign agents residing abroad may be                  service tax
     exempted from the purview of TDS U/s 195 of the Income Tax Act
                                                                                      Proposal on Banking and Finance
                 Proposal on Excise Duty
                                                                          2. Separate chapter for pre and post shipment export credit at fixed
1. The readymade garment industry should continue under optional              rate of 7.0% interest and apparel sector to be included in the
   CENVAT chain                                                               priority sector lending. Till such time, in RMG, sector 3% Interest
                                                                              Subvention Scheme, which was available up to 31st March 2014,
                Proposal on Customs Duty                                      should be continued.
                                                                          World trade in MMF garment is around 60%, whereas India
1. (i) Entitlement of Export Performance Certificate (EPC) should         predominantly exports only Cotton garments. Currently, around
   be increased from 3% to 5% (Notification No. 05/2014-Customs           80% export from India is in Cotton/cotton blend; not able to enhance
   dated 17th February, 2014):                                            share in MMF garments- value addition in this regard could make big
   [The value of the exports were Rs. 90,402 crore during 2013-14         difference in terms of exports from India.
   and the eligible import items value @ 3% would have been Rs.           Shri Kaushal Srivastava (Member) Budget, CBEC has responded
   2712 crore. Actual use was however Rs. 726 crore only. Even by         positively to the AEPC demands and has assured all support to the
   raising the eligible ceiling from 3% to 5%, the usage shall not        garment exporters which have the highest employment potential and
   exceed Rs. 2712 crore limit. Thus, no additional duty foregone is      capacity to boost manufacturing in India.

                                                                                                                               APPAREL INDIA            17
WTO Updates
       Yemen to become 160th WTO member
     Yemen deposited its “Instrument of Acceptance” on 27 May 2014 with Director-General
     Roberto Azevêdo, confirming its membership terms. According to WTO rules, Yemen will
     become a full-fledged member on 26 June 2014...

                                                                                Yemeni Minister of Trade and Industry, and WTO Director-
                                                                                General Roberto Azevêdo.
                                                                                Yemen is the seventh least-developed country (LDC) to accede to
                                                                                the multilateral trading system since the WTO was established in
                                                                                1995. As an LDC, Yemen will benefit from technical assistance
                                                                                and capacity building from the WTO Secretariat to support the
                                                                                implementation of its accessions, commitments, negotiate trade
                                                                                rules and develop the trade-related skills and infrastructure
                                                                                needed to benefit from its WTO membership.
                                                                                 DG Azevêdo welcomes Yemen to the WTO
                                                                                “On behalf of the WTO, I would like to pay special tribute to
                                                                                Minister Saadaldeen Talib, who, as Chief Negotiator, guided
     By depositing the document with Director-General Roberto                   Yemen through the accession process.
     Azevêdo, Yemen activated the 30-day countdown to its WTO                   We celebrate accessions both because of what it means for the
     membership which will be effective on 26 June 2014. In the                 individual country, but also because of what it means for this
     “Instrument of Acceptance”, the Yemeni government declares                 organization.
     that the law approving Yemen’s Protocol of Accession enacted               Accessions help to safeguard and strengthen the multilateral
     by Parliament was issued by the President of Yemen on 11 May               system by:
     2014.                                                                      • spreading trade liberalization and adherence to common rules
     Yemen applied for WTO membership in April 2000. It completed                  and standards;
     its application process on 26 September 2013 when the Working              • building capacity;
     Partyconcluded its accessions negotiations and adopted the                 • improving market access opportunities;
     report of the Working Party ad referendum (i.e. subject to formal          • and fostering international cooperation.
     approval by the Ministerial Conference).                                   And, of course, each accession takes the WTO closer to its goal
     Trade ministers of WTO members officially approved Yemen’s                 of universality.
     accession on 4 December 2013 during the Ninth Ministerial                  This work is a strategic priority for the WTO — particularly the
     Conference in Bali, Indonesia. The Protocol of Accession                   accession of LDCs.”
     (document WT/L/905) was signed by H.E. Dr. Saadaldeen Talib,               The Republic of Yemen will be our 35th LDC Member.

      Trade statistics show the least developed hit
      more severely by global slowdown - DG WTO
     Least developed countries experienced growth in 2012 and 2013 that was below their
     previous average, but could gain from an upturn since a large share of their exports go
     to Europe, which is recovering, Director-General Roberto Azevêdo stated his concerns
     at a press conference on the latest trade statistics on 14 April 2014.
     In 2009, in the aftermath of the global financial crisis, trade suffered   Since then we haven't seen any more declines — and that's good news
     its largest decline on record — down 12% in volume terms, and 23%          — but, other than the partial rebound in 2010, growth has remained
     in dollar terms, compared to the previous year.                            a long way below the historical average.

18     APPAREL INDIA
Updates WTO
And for the last two years trade growth has been sluggish.
So let's have a look at what happened in 2013 — and how we did in
terms of our forecasts.
As it is in every situation, these forecasts are not intended to predict
the exact figures. If they do it's by chance, frankly, not mathematical
precision.
What you are really trying to do is, predict the trend.
And in 2013 we think we got it right. We forecast that the overall story
would be one of subdued trade growth.
Our original forecasted was 3.3%, which we subsequently revised to
2.5% due to the downgrading of GDP forecasts during the year.
This reflects the methodology we have for this work.
As with any forecast, our trade forecasts are predicated on a series
of assumptions. The extent to which these assumptions materialise
plays an important role in the accuracy of our forecasts. If they don't
materialise then we recalibrate our work.
Chief among these assumptions are the predictions of GDP growth
produced by other international institutions, including the IMF and
OECD. In 2013 the EU recession ended in the second quarter rather
than the first, as we had expected-and both trade and output in large
developing economies were slower than expected. This meant GDP
forecasts for the year had to be revised, and therefore so did our trade     Developed Countries – and this is something that should always be
forecasts. World trade growth slowed to just 2.1% in real volume terms       at the forefront of our minds. These are the poorest countries in the
in 2013, fractionally down on the year before-confirming the scenario        WTO membership, and so their evolution is something we should
we outlined of subdued growth. So now let's take a look forward to           follow closely.
2014 and 2015. If GDP forecasts hold true, we expect a broad-based           In general, the economic performance of LDCs is more closely linked
but modest upturn in the volume of world trade in 2014, and further          to the external environment, than it is in larger, more diverse emerging
consolidation of this growth in 2015. For 2014 world trade should rise       markets. And it is clear that they have keenly felt the impact of the
by 4.7%. This is not yet quite at the historical average, but it is better   global slowdown in the last two years.
than last year. It would definitely be a step in the right direction.        Growth in the dollar value of LDC exports was 1% in 2012 and 5%
Forecasts for 2015 are much more uncertain because, of course, they          in 2013. This is well below the 13% average since 2005 and down
are based on longer-term assumptions about the evolution of the world        sharply from the 24% increase seen in 2011.
economy between now and then.                                                Conversely, LDCs may benefit disproportionately from any
With this caveat in mind, we foresee a 5.3% increase in world trade in       improvement in the world economy going forward, since a large
2015. This would be in line with the 20-year average.                        portion of their exports-nearly 20%-goes to the recovering European
Underlying these numbers is the expectation that trade growth in Asia        Union. The hard data is thinner for these economies, but again this
will continue to outpace other regions, while Europe will continue to        is an area that we will be watching closely and putting even more
lag behind, as high unemployment restrains consumer demand for               emphasis on in future. In closing, it's clear that trade is going to
some time to come.                                                           improve as the world economy also improves.
A return to positive growth in EU trade flows will make a very               But I know that just waiting for an automatic increase in trade will not
important contribution to trade growth globally as the EU accounts           be enough for WTO Members. We can actively support trade growth
for around a third of world trade. So, once again, we will be watching       by avoiding protectionism in times of uncertainty -and, of course, by
closely to see if the recovery in the EU disappoints.                        updating the rules and reaching new trade agreements.
We can go into more detail in the Q&A. For now I'd just like to pick         The deal in Bali last December illustrates this. It will dramatically cut
out two points of interest.                                                  the cost of doing business across borders-particularly in developing
First is the ratio of trade growth to GDP growth.                            countries-while also supporting LDCs to gain preferential market
The average ratio since the mid-1980s is around 2 to 1–with trade            access. But of course there is a lot more we can do.
growing at twice the pace of GDP.                                            We must make every effort to move towards concluding the Doha
However, in the last two years the ratio was closer to 1 to 1.               Development Agenda as soon as possible. We have already made
Although two years of roughly equal growth for both trade and GDP is         progress in this work-building on the momentum of Bali. Now we
not unprecedented, it is quite rare.                                         are discussing new ideas and new approaches which could help us
Whether this constitutes a trend, it is too soon to say. But it is clearly   to get the job done-and to do it quickly. Concluding the round would
something that we will be keeping a close eye on.                            provide a strong foundation for trade in the future, and a powerful
The second point of interest is what has been happening in the Least         stimulus in today’s slow growth environment.

                                                                                                                                APPAREL INDIA            19
FASHION Intelligence
     Cost Control                             It is time to go “Back to the basics ‘Ask Yourself’
                                                                                                                    By Paul Collyer, UK

      Remaining both profitable and competitive is probably
      more intense and challenging today than at any time
      during the last 40 years in the garment industry.
      Manufacturers have principally reduced their costs
      to what they perceive to be the minimum; however,
      economic pressures require manufacturers to again
      re-examine their businesses and see where they can
      “cut further fat”.

     In the current circumstances, the most cost-effective way to
     address cost control is not to indulge in grandiose changes of
     production methods or acquire equipments but to look inward
     and consider what is currently happening and utilize the existing
     resources of men and machines better. A thorough review of
     each production-related activity needs to be conducted and
     improvements are needed to be sought wherever possible.

      It Is Time To Go “Back To The
      Basics”: ‘Ask Yourself’
      The time is for introspection for all the manufacturing
      concerns without exception. Maintaining cost effectiveness
      and quality are the areas where manufacturers are looking
      forward to improve profitability. But while doing so they
      should remember that:
                                                                         • the implementation and cost measuring of
      • They cannot gain an advantage over their                           systematic operator training systems and
        competitors by the use of technology; the same                   • the combining of all activities into a systemic
        equipment is available to everyone.                                approach to managing a factory.
      • The purchasing of materials cannot give a
        competitive edge, particularly as many retailers                 It is time for manufacturers to revisit all of these areas of
        now insist on materials being purchased from a                   the business to ensure that resources are not being wasted.
        limited number of approved suppliers.                            During the day-to-day management of a sewing unit, it is easy
      • So, what is left to do is examining the manufacturing            for standards to slip, performances to drop and bad habits
        costs, i.e. labour cost (standard hours) and the                 and poor practices to return. Action plans overseen by the
        control of overheads as this is the only point at                senior management should be drawn up as part of a business
        which performances of different manufacturers                    improvement initiative.
        can be compared.
                                                                         People
      Key elements of running production units
                                                                         The essential part of any factory is people; garment
      • the performance of production management and                     manufacturing is a labour-intensive business, therefore
        supervisory staff                                                effective organization and control of the work force is crucial
      • labour cost control monitoring                                   to its success. In any factory this role is the responsibility
      • work methods

20    APPAREL INDIA
Intelligence FASHION
of production managers of varying levels of seniority, and      • How much production is lost because operators are
supervisors. It is therefore necessary to consider:               working to low performances as they either have
                                                                  no incentive to work, or do not have the ability to
• How well are the operators performing?                          perform due to the lack of skills, or are working to
• Do they know the levels of performance they should              an inadequate work supply or target?
  achieve?
• Do managers and supervisors know their roles and              Equal production for all operations might
  responsibilities?                                             not be a perfect balance
• Have their roles been clearly defined in a job
  specification?                                                A major cause of lost production is operators working down to
• Are Key Performance Indicators (KPIs) used and                inadequate targets or work supply. If supervisors collect two
  does the labour cost control system given clear               hourly output figures from each operation then the following
  feedback?                                                     should be noticed:

When supervisors/operators dealing with shorter production      • Does each operation in a production line produce
runs (in sampling lines) deal with large production orders,       exactly the same number of pieces as the previous
their efficiencies might be affected.                             and next operations? If so, then this is not a perfect
                                                                  balance but operations and operators are working
The question to be asked:                                         down to their work feed.
                                                                • If two or more operators are doing the same
• Is the performance system flexible enough to                    operation do they all produce exactly the same
  provide necessary consideration to it?                          quantity every hour? If yes, then they are not
                                                                  working to maximum but instead sharing the work.
Performance reviews should be held at set intervals to a        • Do operations and sections produce their hourly
specified format so that everyone involved knows exactly what     and daily exactly same? If so, the target is wrong.
is to happen and how it will be conducted.                      • Is the operation target being met but the operator(s)
Achievements can be discussed, shortcomings appraised and         are working to a low performance? In this case, the
development plans agreed as required.                             balance is wrong! This situation will particularly
An adequate planning of resources and a motivating payment        inhibit the development of trainee workers.
system also helps boosting the performance.
                                                                The key is to ensure that operators are fully trained, have
Following must be considered to do this:                        an incentive scheme that is both fair and transparent and
                                                                have supervisors who are competent in production balancing
• Is non achievement of production targets accepted             techniques to ensure that sufficient work is available.
  by managers who consider absence or style change
  to be reasonable excuses instead of problems that
  should have been overcome?
• Does the payment system motivate both direct and
  indirect workers? Is salary related to achievement?
• How many “helpers” are present, what do they do,
  are they necessary or can their work be eliminated?
• Do the people have the skill and knowledge to carry
  out their roles to the required standards?

Lost Output

Output is not only affected by the abilities of production
managers and supervisors but the planning of orders and
sourcing of materials.
• How often are styles put onto the line without all of
   the components being available?
• How much time is lost through operators waiting
   for work or machines to be mended?

                                                                                                           APPAREL INDIA        21
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