TIME TRAVEL The Wild East Historical and Cultural Experience - Appalachian Trail Conservancy
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TIME
TRAVEL
The Wild East Historical
and Cultural Experience
Significance of Scenic Views
Hot Springs, North Carolina
06 / contributors
08 / President’s Letter
10 / Letters
51 / trail giving
18 / Trailhead View from the A.T. in Harriman/Bear Mountian
Happenings in the Trail community state parks, New York – By Raymond Salani III
40 / APPALACHIAN FOCUS
24 / time
A moment at Mahoosuc Notch
42 / a.t. communities
travel
Adventure and unwind in Hot Springs, North Carolina
46 / trail stories
Spirit and grace carry on U.S. history and culture resonate in the Wild East
48 / Indigenous 14 / Scenic Views
Shortleaf pine ecosystem The significance of breathtaking views beyond the footpath
50 / Recommended
Historic summer reads 34 / the a.t. story
The A.T. Museum tells the story of the Trail
54 / parting thought
Love and diversity 36 / Mountain Playground
Trailblazing women of the Smoky Mountains Hiking Club
On The Cover
Sunrise at Blackrock Summit — just
steps from the Trail in Shenandoah 38 / Reeling in the Miles
National Park – Photo by Lori Mier Fishing spots abound for the passionate angler
Summer 2019 / A.T. Journeys 03
T h e M a g a z i n e o f t h e A p p a l a c h i a n T r a i l C o n s e r v a n c y / s u mm e r 2 0 1 9
ATC Executive Leadership mission
Sandra Marra / President & CEO The Appalachian Trail Conservancy’s
Stacey J. Marshall / Vice President of Finance & Administration mission is to preserve and manage
SUPPORTING THE
the Appalachian Trail — ensuring that
Elizabeth Borg / Vice President of Membership & Development
its vast natural beauty and priceless APPALACHIAN TRAIL
Laura Belleville / Vice President of Conservation & Trail Programs
cultural heritage can be shared and CONSERVANCY
Cherie A. Nikosey / Chief of Staff enjoyed today, tomorrow, and for
Brian B. King / Publisher centuries to come.
A.T. Journeys
Wendy K. Probst / Editor in Chief
Board of Directors
Traci Anfuso-Young / Art Director / Designer Colin Beasley / Chair Shop National Park-inspired apparel and
Greg Winchester / Vice Chair accessories that help fund projects in
Contributors Edward R. Guyot / Secretary your favorite places.
Jordan Bowman / Communications Manager Mary Higley / Treasurer
Beth Critton SHOP AT WWW.PARKSPROJECT.US | @PARKSPROJECT
Laurie Potteiger / Information Services Manager
Grant Davies
Brittany Jennings / Proofreader
Shalin Desai
Norman P. Findley
Thomas L. Gregg
Daniel A. Howe
Membership Advertising Robert Hutchinson
For membership questions A.T. Journeys is published four times James LaTorre
or to become a member, call: per year. Advertising revenues directly Colleen Peterson
(304) 885-0460 support the publication and production of Rubén Rosales
the magazine, and help meet Appalachian
Trail Conservancy objectives. For more President’s Advisory Circle
membership@appalachiantrail.org information and advertising rates, visit: Hon. C. Stewart Verdery, Jr. / Co-Chair
appalachiantrail.org/atjadvertising Hon. Stephanie Martz / Co-Chair
Diana Christopulos
Constance I. DuHamel
The staff of A.T. Journeys welcomes A.T. Journeys is published A.T. Journeys ( ISSN 1556-2751) is
editorial inquiries, suggestions, on Somerset matte paper published quarterly for $15 a year by
Lisa Koteen Gerchick
and comments. Email: manufactured by Sappi North the Appalachian Trail Conservancy, Jessica Herrera-Flanigan
editor@appalachiantrail.org America mills and distributors 799 Washington Street, Harpers R. Michael Leonard
Observations, conclusions, that follow responsible forestry Ferry, WV 25425, (304) 535-6331. Robert Rich
opinions, and product practices. It is printed with Soy Bulk-rate postage paid at Harpers
Thomas Torrisi
endorsements expressed in A.T. Seal certified ink in the U.S.A. Ferry, West Virginia, and other
Journeys are those of the authors by Sheridan NH in Hanover, New offices. Postmaster: Send change-
Sara Hazelwood Yanes
and do not necessarily reflect those Hampshire. of-address Form 3575 to A.T.
of members of the board or staff of Journeys, P.O. Box 807, Harpers
the Appalachian Trail Conservancy. Ferry, WV 25425.
© 2019 Appalachian Trail Conservancy. All rights reserved.
*APR=Annual Percentage Rate. APR is current as of 5/1/19 and is subject to change without notice. APR is based
on evaluation of credit history, so your rate may differ. Additional rates and terms are available. Vacation loan
payment example: Loan amount of $5,000 for 24 months at 7.99% APR will have a monthly payment of $226.91.
a dv en t ure / e x pl ore / pl ay ou t side
Family
contributors
The sheer magnitude
of historical events
converging with the
“ The drive from Maryland into West Virginia — over the
Potomac and then Shenandoah rivers — is my singular favorite stretch of road.
Not just because it is where I used to play, float lazily on innertubes, and attempt
to kayak when the rapids were low in the summers of my college years, but for
the sheer magnificence of the views and the deep reverence I feel for the history
Hiking
Day
A.T. challenged me surrounding the area. History flows like a river along the length of the A.T. In
some areas, like the confluence of the Shenandoah and Potomac in Harpers
to find the common Ferry, it flows quite literally. U.S. history and culture are intertwined
thread of the inextricably in so many places along the Trail that it is easy to liken the footpath
mountains and gaps as to a portal for time travel. In this ancient but somehow ageless Appalachian
mountain range, time loops from past to future and back again revealing old
barrier, passage, and and new messages — of the significance of dazzling scenic views, the stories
life source behind some of the oldest historical places in the U.S., and the importance of
september
cultural diversity in the outdoor-loving recreational community.
” 28, 2019
Marina Richie
Wendy K. Probst / Editor in Chief
Jennifer Pharr Davis Audrey Peterman Tim Bower Marina Richie
Jennifer Pharr Davis is a hiker, Audrey Peterman grew up in the Tim Bower is an illustrator After a deep dive into history,
author, and speaker who has proverbial “village” that it takes to living and working in eastern Marina Richie has a piece of advice
hiked more than 14,000 miles raise a child. Free to roam the lush Pennsylvania. Over the last three for fellow hikers: If you want
and traversed the Appalachian Jamaican countryside with a host decades, his editorial work has to time travel, pause to touch
Trail three times. In 2011, she of village children, she feasted on been commissioned by major U.S. a boulder and feel the passage
set the overall unofficial speed mangoes, guavas, and limitless newspapers, magazines, and book of human history grounded in
record on the A.T. (averaging 47 fruits and sat on the riverbanks publishers, and has been recognized geology and shaped by the north-
miles per day for 46 days). She observing life in the water while by the illustration/design industry. south mountain range.
has also logged over 600 miles doing her homework. He has also produced artwork for Marina often writes about
pregnant and over 1,000 miles "When I migrated to the United advertising campaigns, annual the confluence of nature and
while nursing. She founded the States and discovered the National reports, and character design for culture, and authored the winter
Blue Ridge Hiking Company — a Park System, I was shocked to film for clients including: Sony, 2019 feature, “Wild Skyway.”
premier guiding service in the find the disparity in visitorship and Nike, Volkswagen, Red Bull, ESPN, “Researching this piece offered
southeastern U.S., which recently employment along racial lines,” Major League Baseball and Blue new and often emotional insights
launched a lightweight hiking and she says. She and her husband Sky Studios. Tim has served on the into the Cherokee Trail of Tears,
backpacking boutique in Asheville Frank have been striving to remedy faculty of several college illustration and those who traversed the
and a bunkhouse on the A.T. in Hot this situation through consulting, programs, most currently the Underground Railroad, as well as
Springs, North Carolina. “It was a writing, speaking, and physically University of the Arts in Philadelphia. stories from the Revolutionary
joy to write this piece because the introducing people to the parks. “As an editorial illustrator I’m offered and Civil wars, and the CCC-era,”
scenic views along the Appalachian She served five three-year terms assignments on current events she says. “The sheer magnitude of
Trail are the first place where I felt on the Board of Trustees for the most frequently, so the occasional historical events converging with
fully beautiful, self-assured, and a National Parks Conservation historical or fictional themes are the A.T. challenged me to find the
part of the natural environment,” Association and is co-founder of always welcome and have become common thread of the mountains
The appal achian trail conservancy invites you to get outside and
she says. Jennifer is also the author the Diverse Environmental Leaders preferred,” he says. “This article, and gaps as barrier, passage, and experience the wonder and beauty of the appal achian trail.
several critically acclaimed books, Speakers Bureau. with its substantial conceptual heft life source." Held on National Public Lands Day, Family Hiking Day is an opportunity to introduce your
including Becoming Odyssa and The was a pleasure to dig into, not only
children to America’s premier footpath, and all of the benefits that come from being active
Pursuit of Endurance. for its interesting imagery but for its
historical and cultural significance.”
and spending time outdoors.
to plan an A.T. hike for your family visit:
06 A.T. Journeys / Summer 2019
appalachiantrail.org/familyhike
President’s letter New York
225 miles
Chambersburg
R esilience , Dedic at ion e n t a l ly Gettysburg
cid
a nd A spir at ion Ac
U T E N
GL
Washington DC
85 miles
NCE
FREE 1991
As the Appalachian Trail
Conservancy’s (ATC) president/
ness campaign called “Wild East,”
which has served as the common
S I
CEO, it has been my privilege to banner uniting the most inspir-
share in the rich A.T. legacy. When ing and important treasures
I joined in 2017, I was immediately along the A.T. This past year
impressed by the passionate dedi- alone, with our landscape part-
cation to the Trail shared by our ners, we have protected more
members, volunteers, partners, than 35,000 acres. ATC is making
the National Park Service, the U.S. your voices heard on Capitol Hill,
Forest Service, and, of course, the and with state and local govern-
ATC’s board and staff. I’ve had ments; rolling up our sleeves with
an incredibly fast, exhilarating, A.T. communities, documenting
and wonderful run, so I’m sure scenic views…and doing what we
that this being my last column will do best — supporting the ongo-
catch many of you by surprise — ing stewardship of the Trail and
more about that below. Initially, welcoming millions of visitors.
I want to address a number of Serving as the president/CEO
important items: has been the fulfillment of many
First, the incredible efforts of my professional dreams. My
made by first responders, hikers, decision to leave ATC as of August
and the whole A.T. community to 31 comes only after deep reflec-
the horrific assault that led to the tion on my professional and per-
death of U.S. Army veteran Ronald sonal needs and my belief that
Sanchez Jr., and which severely ATC is on a solid foundation to
wounded another hiker, reminds
us all how much we depend on one another. Our Late summer
move ahead to realize its visions.
The wonderful impact that ATC has had on me is
Woodchuck Hard Cider.
hearts go out to the victims and to their families sunset over the something that will guide my future career. The cider you'd make.
and friends — clearly reflected by the outpouring Nantahala National I want to express my deepest gratitude to our
of love and support that the A.T. hiking and vol-
unteer community has directed their way. Not
Forest/Blue Ridge
Parkway – By
board, members, and staff for giving me the oppor-
tunity to be the president/CEO of this remarkable
If you lived in vermont.
long after this tragedy, Appalachian Trail lovers
from around the world gathered for the 33rd
Jerry Greer organization, and for every experience shared,
friendships made, and the good times we had
And owned a CIDERY.
Annual Trail Days in Damascus, Virginia. The together. Thank you all for all that you have done, and had a weird knack
yearly festival of celebration, learning, and fellow- for all you are doing, and for all that you will do. I for fermenting fruit.
ship was made more profound by our shared shock at this leave ATC with wonderful memories, and with relationships
senseless violence. with friends and colleagues that I hope will continue for the
The mantle is ours to take up from Benton MacKaye in build- rest of my life. I wish you all the best.
ing and protecting the Trail. It’s our job to protect the “scenic” in In closing, we need to UNITE urban with wilderness, to
North Carolina
the Appalachian National Scenic Trail, and to pass along to future UNITE the countless dedicated volunteers with hikers seeking Appalachian Trail
generations the Trail community’s legacy of resilience, dedica- to fulfill their personal aspirations, and to UNITE 14 States of License Plate
Application
tion, and aspiration — the essence of “A.T. Strong.” varying terrain in one of America’s most remarkable undertak- The Appalachian Trail Conservancy (ATC) now has a specialty license tag in the state of North Carolina.
By getting your tag today, you’ll help the ATC protect and maintain America’s
Favorite Long Distance Trail! Facts
MacKaye’s goal was to provide residents in the eastern U.S. ings — the Appalachian Trail.
You must already have
The ATC will receive $20 annually for each AT plate purchased or renewed. the vehicle registered in
North Carolina.
We Like It.
You receive a FREE
How Much Does It Cost?
Proceeds benefit the
ATC Membership with
$30 Regular Appalachian Trail plate*
with a natural refuge and retreat from daily urban life. Know-
the purchase of your NC
$60 Personalized Appalachian Trail plate* AT Tag.
You are allowed four (4) spaces for a personalized message. *The $30 or $60 annual
__ __ __ __ 1st Choice __ __ __ __ 2nd Choice __ __ __ __ 3rd Choice fee is in addition to
regular annual license
ing today that the A.T. is one of the last remaining contiguous See y’all on the Trail!
Name (as shown on certificate of title): fees you have already
paid.
Personalized tags may
FIRST MIDDLE LAST be relinquished to
someone else, but once
open spaces in the East, ATC has sought to create a nationwide
a numerical tag expires
Suzanne Dixon
ADDRESS
without renewal, that
number can never again
CITY STATE ZIP CODE be reissued.
If you change your mind,
sense of urgency about Trail issues. We launched a public aware-
you can go back to a
PROUD SUPPORTER OF
HOME PHONE OFFICE PHONE regular license plate at
Current North Carolina Vehicle any time. There will not
be a refund of unused
_______________________ ____________________________________ portion of special fees.
PLATE NUMBER VEHICLE IDENTIFICATION NUMBER Additional applications
______________________ ____________________________________ can be found online at
APPALACHIANTRAIL.ORG/ATCPLATES
DRIVER’S LICENSE # YEAR MODEL MAKE BODY STYLE www.appalachiantrail.org
Owner’s Certification of Liability Insurance
©2019 Vermont Cider Co., 1321 Exchange St., Middlebury, VT 05753. Revel Responsibly.® I certify for the motor vehicle described above that I have financial responsibility as required by law.
FULL NAME OF INSURANCE COMPANY AUTHORIZED IN NC – NOT AGENCY OR GROUP
POLICY NUMBER – IF POLICY NOT ISSUED, NAME OF AGENCY BINDING COVERAGE
08 A.T. Journeys / Summer 2019
______________________________________ _________________________________________
SIGNATURE OF OWNER DATE OF CERTIFICATION
Mail your check or money order made out to NC DMV Thanks for your generous support of the
and application to: Appalachian Trail! Questions about the NC AT License
NC Division of Motor Vehicles, Specialty Plate Division Tag can be directed to Leanna Joyner 828-254-3708.
3155 Mail Service Center
Raleigh, NC 27699-3155
www.appalachiantrail.org
letters
Russell Tours
Bear resistant containers Hiking in Beautiful Places since 1991
framed it and it looks awesome. Thank and Bl ack Bear Awareness
you for caring so for our precious Trail. It
passes through my new home town.
Jim Alden Due to an increasing number of serious human/bear
Hinsdale, Massachusetts
interactions at many locations along the A.T., the
I have an incredible apprecia- Appalachian Trail Conservancy continues to strongly
tion for all those individuals in Trail recommend use of a bear canister by everyone staying Hike the best parts of these
crews who put so much time, energy, overnight on the A.T. iconic European trails
and soul into a “Trail” that has come to
represent something much larger — for
anyone who chooses to take the first Haute Route
step — into their exploration of self by Tour du Mont Blanc
the simple act of walking.
Willie Johnson
Dolomites Alta Via 1
Georgetown, Indiana Hike 7, 10, 14, or 21 days.
Stay in 3 and 4-star hotels.
A.T. Journeys welcomes your comments. From $1,450 per week pp.
The editors are committed to providing balanced 1/2 board (Breakfast & Dinner)
and objective perspectives. Not all letters received
may be published. Letters may be edited for
The articles from Kim I have been a loyal supporter clarity and length.
appalachiantrail.org/bears hiking@russelltours.com
O’Connell and Rebecca Harnish, “Step of the Appalachian Trail Conservancy for www.russelltours.com
Out” and “Postcards from Paradise” more than 40 years now. Wonderful or-
(Spring 2019) are the reason I will keep ganization! I just had to tell you how editor@appalachiantrail.org
my membership and enjoy A.T. Journeys awesome the new Wild East poster is. I Letters to the Editor ATC AD | 2.25 x 4.75
as long as I live. Rebecca’s short article normally do not go for any of the “gifts” Appalachian Trail Conservancy
may be why many don’t want to long- that come with providing financial sup- P.O. Box 807
distance hike, but to me and the ones port, but this one blew us away. We Harpers Ferry, WV 25425-0807
who have hiked the Trail, we never want
it to end. Her article gave me the sights,
sounds, smells, and feelings that only
a person that has experienced it can get. @hillier.c Thank you, everyone who the abandoned mine at
Keep these articles coming. People who clear and helps to keep the trails Brooklyn Mine Trail in
Richard “Truck” Dailey maintain trails deserve a clear, and the shelters Fayetteville WV. I followed
Orange Park, Florida special place in heaven. As repaired! We both had a her cues so she didn’t get
a veteran (US Army ‘86- fantastic weekend in MA! frustrated ... now she’s in
W h i l e I a m ge n e r a l ly no t ’92) and a long-distance Although, Eugene did not college and introducing
t h r u - h i k e r
20 19
a fan of the thru-hiker articles, I do hiker, I thank all of you for get his trail name yet. others to hiking.
o n
your hard work. Maybe next time! ~Karen Zitzelman Henkes
i
appreciate the together ness that
comes from publishing the 2,000-Miler
list of those who’ve done it ("2,000-Mil- @marie.bauer34 @Lighthawk_East @subway_is_my_life
Re g i s t r at rs can now reg
ister the ir 2 0 1
d
9 h
to
ik e s online. Reg
start on each their
istrants
day,
ers," Spring 2019) #jealous. The “Step Thank you for all your I’m wild about Wild East! I had the pleasure of joining
th ru -h ik e re gis te re it
Out” article about Trail Communities work. It does not go Let’s make it happen! a team last weekend and Aspiring A.T. e th e n um b ers of hikers e d d a y or lo cation to lim
se owd
by Kim O’Connell is a keeper for when unnoticed by us in the AT moved hundreds of buckets will be able to ingly to start on an uncr
ord il.
my life commitments allow me to hike, hiking community. I started by taking of dirt in the Smokies
then plan acc al im p ac ts on the Tra t e r a hike visit:
long weekends at best. Good tips in my daughter on short, to build the A.T. back up
ecological a nd s o ci T o r e g is
that article. Also, beautiful post card @jenniferbuynitzky manageable hikes that to normal levels in our
h i a n t r a i l .o r g/
art by Rebecca Harnish. I just took my basset had something of interest section. Cleaned out water
appal ac gistration
t h r u h i k e re
Dan Rusin hound, Eugene, on his first for her … the wild ponies runs and rebuilt a bridge.
Aberdeen, Maryland A.T. hike this past weekend. at Grayson highlands ... Can’t wait until next year!
10 A.T. Journeys / Summer 2019
Hydrate &
Refresh
Eight ways to sip in A.T. style…
Board Election Prices range from $15.75 to $37.75*
and Annual Meeting Visit: atctrailstore.org/hydrate
Announcement to find all of your cool beverage
holding needs
Election Process and important dates
Four returning directors have been nominated president and CEO, at ATC headquarters in Harpers
for open positions on the Appalachian Trail Conservancy Ferry, West Virginia. Additionally, any motions or
(ATC) Board of Directors for the 2019–2022 term. resolutions relevant to the corporate affairs of the ATC
Elections will be conducted electronically prior to the for consideration at the annual meeting should be sent to
organization’s annual meeting, which is scheduled from resolutions@appalachiantrail.org by August 23 or by mail
10:30 a.m. to noon EDT on September 7, 2019. to ATC headquarters to be received before that date.
Nominated for three-year terms are: Greg Winchester We will be adding more information including the
of Milton, Georgia; Beth Critton of West Hartford, agenda, biographies of board candidates, and other
Connecticut; Rubén Rosales of Cambridge, Massachusetts; updates — so check back frequently as we get closer
and Norman Findley of Brookhaven, Georgia. to the meeting.
The annual meeting will be conducted on a virtual Your membership must be current to vote. To check on
basis this year. Further information on the meeting, your membership status, contact us at (304) 535-6331
the elections process, and the nominees can be found or e-mail: membership@appalachiantrail.org. Elections
at: appalachiantrail.org. will occur online. Online voting will open at noon on
Additional nominations may be made via petitions August 24 and continue until 8 a.m. EDT on September 7.
signed by at least 100 members of the ATC in good All members in good standing will receive an e-mail with
standing and received 20 days prior to the annual voting instructions in August.
meeting. They should be addressed to Sandra Marra,
How to participate: atctrailstore.org
View the meeting live: appalachiantrail.org or www.youtube.com/live toll-free: (888) 287.8673
Mon. — Fri., 9 am — 4:30 pm Eastern
View the meeting and submit questions during the event: membership@appalachiantrail.org
We usually ship on the same business day!
Renew your membership: AppalachianTrail.org/renew
Buy direct from the Ultimate Appalachian Trail Store and ensure a maximum return to the Trail.
Learn more: appalachiantrail.org/MembershipMeeting2019
*ATC members receive a 10% discount by using “atcmember” as a coupon code at check-out!
12 A.T. Journeys / Summer 2019 A.T. Shenandoah National Park – By Lori Mier
Wide open vistas beyond † he foo† path offer respite and are essen†ial † o † he Wil d East
{ By Jennifer Ph a r r Dav is }
I had been on the Trail for a little over four weeks
and despite the demanding climb to the summit of Roan Mountain
my legs still felt energized. The Trail stretched before me like a
moving sidewalk that pulled me forward without effort. It was late
April and the breeze brought the stirring scent of spring to the
6,000-foot ridgeline. The eastern horizon was stacked with layers
of mountains that turned violet and indigo as the sun grew heavy
in the sky. To the west, the deep green of Christmas tree farms and
spring flora filling the valley floor. As I ascended Hump Mountain,
the sun descended on a distant peak. And, like a lit match to a
14 A.T. Journeys / Summer 2019 Summer 2019 / A.T. Journeys 15
the A ppalachian National Scenic Trail is a
firework, the sinking orb ignited the sky with rose color hues and
golden linings on every cloud.
significan† i le in tha i† upholds †he human
When I reached the top, I was overtaken with the moment. Without
thinking, I shouted, “Praise God,” at the top of my lungs. Suddenly, I felt
self-conscious. I looked around again to make sure I was alone. I was...
need for natural beauty.
I was by myself, standing on top of a 400-million-year-
old mountain, with uninterrupted views in every
direction, and the moment was too full to be contained.
For someone else, the expression might have been
“Thank you,” or “I’m Free.” Or perhaps the sentiment
could be best expressed in a guttural cry, a wolf-like howl
or silent tears. But regardless of the expression, the
translation is universal. There was something in that
place and in that moment, there was something about
the undeveloped landscape stretching like fingers in all
directions that was transcendent.
The Appalachian National Scenic Trail is sometimes
described as a green tunnel. And, while the details of
the bio-diversity and the sanctuary of the forest are
identifying characteristics of the footpath, it is the
scenic viewpoints that offer respite and release from
long stretches within the canopy.
Myron Avery, early pioneer and leader of the Ap-
palachian Trail, once said of the footpath, “It beckons
Previous page: A.T. sunset from not merely north and south, but upward to the body, mind and soul Masa, a Japanese immigrant who stood no more than five listed as eligible for listing on the National Register of His-
Three Sisters Ridge — Shenandoah of man.” And when you hike to scenic vistas such as Hump Mountain, feet tall, used a bike wheel as an odometer to mark and toric Places and the path’s scenic views and overlooks are a
National Park, Virginia – By McAfee Knob, Franconia Ridge, and Katahdin you feel exactly what measure the Appalachian Trail along the North Carolina and primary consideration in the designation. For as much as a
Raymond Salani III; Above: George he meant. Tennessee border; and he brought his camera along to capture historic house might teach us about life in the nineteenth
Masa with his camera in the Shining In 1968, when the United States Congress recognized the Appala- the stunning vistas of the southern Appalachians. His century, think how much more an undisturbed landscape can
Rock Wilderness, North Carolina; chian Trail as deserving of limited support and protection from the photographs, along with the writings of Horace Kephart, were teach about the history of this place and the men and women
A Masa photo of the view from Big federal government it did not highlight the path’s length, history, or a driving factor in the federal designation of the Great Smoky who inhabited these mountains over the past 10,000 years.
Bald including Mount Pisgah, Little recreation opportunities in the designation. Instead, it acknowledged Mountains National Park and in raising the ten million Looking out at the Wild East that remains, and knowing it
Pisgah, and Little Bald Mountain its aesthetics. The Appalachian National Scenic Trail is a significant dollars stipulated by Congress to fund the park. needs our support, will teach us who we are right now.
(Masa’s hand-writing notes the title in that it upholds the human need for natural beauty. Whereas artists, recreationalists, and government legisla- I had never experienced beauty like I felt standing on top
elevation of each peak) – Photos Beauty begets beauty — and conservation. The majesty of the Ap- tion recognize the inspiration of the scenic views of the Ap- of Hump Mountain, shouting into the wind, and gazing off
courtesy Pack Memorial Library, palachian Mountains has inspired art in many forms, from folk ballads palachian Trail, the land parcels, which stitch together the into the horizon. But it wasn’t just the beauty of my
North Carolina; Right: View from to watercolor paintings, from handmade quilts hung on walls to re- awe of that place are still susceptible to the pressure of in- surroundings that felt divine. It was the realization that I was
Katahdin – By Aaron Ibey nowned poetry and reflections recited the world over. Some art, such creased development and infrastructure. There is a daily and a part of my surroundings; I was a part of all that beauty. The
as the stunning early photographs by George Masa, have also helped constant tension to allow for the expansion of a growing significance of the scenic views of the Wild East is that they
to protect and preserve the Appalachian Trail and its surrounding population while protecting the scenic vistas that improve serve not just as a viewpoint into the Appalachians; they serve
landscape or viewshed. quality of life, encourage conservation, and preserve history. as a viewpoint into our soul.
Recently, the Appalachian National Scenic Trail has been
16 A.T. Journeys / Summer 2019 Summer 2019 / A.T. Journeys 17
trailhead at c d i r t / h i g h l i g h t s / e v e n t s / u p dat e s
Veterans War Memorial
Tower, Mount Greylock,
Massachusetts.
By Aaron Ibey
The Appalachian Trail is more than a footpath
in the woods. It is the backbone of a great
landscape. With its scenic views, native
plants and wildlife, American history, and
unique communities, the Wild East landscape
Veter ans War is a worldwide destination for your own
Memor i al Tower unforgettable adventure. ¶ Immerse yourself
in the stories surrounding the Wild East —
from the importance of forest health to the
Among so many easily accessible historic Trail- eastern U.S. to the significance of the A.T. and
side treasures from Georgia to Maine is the surrounding corridor as a migratory route
Veterans War Memorial Tower in Massachusetts. and home to myriad species of birds. Explore,
The 93-foot-high tower, which is located at watch videos, and learn about the people and
the summit of Mount Greylock and is part of places that are part of the larger narrative
the Mount Greylock State Reservation, was that encompasses the Wild East.
constructed in 1934 by the Civilian Conservation
Corps in honor of WWI veterans. At 3,492 feet, Discover the Wild East at:
Mount Greylock is the highest point in the state wildeastappalachiantrail.org
and from its peak on a clear day, visitors can see
as far as 90 miles away. ¶ Mount Greylock became
Massachusetts' first state reservation in 1898,
with the donation of 400 acres of land. Today the
reservation includes over 12,500 acres, including
an 11.5-mile segment of the Appalachian Trail.
Illustration by Katie Eberts Summer 2019 / A.T. Journeys 19trailhead Live music, hiking workshops, food,
beverages, and festivities were all part of
the 2019 festival – Photos courtesy REI
Safety on the Tr ail
and Reporting Incidents
The A.T. has an extraordinary culture of kindness and Twenty-four miles of the Trail from the edge of Mount
generosity and is sometimes viewed as a sanctuary from Rogers National Recreation Area to Va. 42 were closed for
some of the ills of the modern world. However, the Trail is 26 hours while law enforcement and a private rescue group
not insulated against the problems of larger society. ¶ In the combed the area to ensure other hikers were safe. ¶ The ATC
wake of the widely reported incident on the Appalachian advises hikers to call 911 (or use an emergency distress
Trail in southwest Virginia in May 2019 that resulted in signal in areas where cell service is not available) in FLIP FLOP
the death of Ronald Sanchez, Jr. and serious injuries to
another hiker, the Appalachian Trail Conservancy (ATC)
any situation requiring a law enforcement response or
medical emergency. A 24-hour National Park Service
FESTIVAL
emphasizes the importance of reporting suspicious behavior dispatch number: 1-866-677-6677 can also be called to
to law enforcement. ¶ Mr. Sanchez managed to send an SOS report incidents along the A.T. The ATC has updated and
from a satellite-based device just before he was killed. The streamlined its Incident Reporting web page to provide
distress calls triggered a major emergency-management guidance on — and multiple ways to report — an incident
response throughout southwest Virginia—from nearby or suspicious person, including a mobile-friendly online ★ ★ ★
★
★
U.S. Forest Service law enforcement, sheriffs’ deputies from incident report form at: appalachiantrail.org/incidents
★
★
Smyth, Wythe, and Bland counties, the state police, and a
★
★
For in-depth safety tips visit: appalachiantrail.org/safety
★
National Park Service ranger from the Blue Ridge Parkway.
★
Congressional
Update
Get Engaged This year’s 5th annual Flip Flop Festival saw a record The Congressional Appalachian National Scenic
with A.T. Volunteers number of thru-hikers (55) starting mid-Trail during Trails Caucus was formed to unite members
a four-day period in late April. More than 1,000 of Congress who wish to work together for
Stewardship Council Selections people joined in the festival’s celebration of the great the sustained protection and conservation of
outdoors in Harpers Ferry and Bolivar, West Virginia
Deadline August 15 the Appalachian National Scenic Trail. Over
by participating in workshops and outings ranging half of the American population lives within a
The Appalachian Trail Conservancy (ATC)
from hiking to birding and forest bathing, to star day’s travel to the Trail, and it unites countless
is seeking candidates for the 2019-2021
gazing. For the second year, REI supported the event communities over its 2,191 miles. The caucus
Stewardship Council. This special committee
with expert clinics and a storytelling panel, and co-chairs and founders, Representative Don
of the ATC Board of Directors oversees
added some extra zing by partnering with Blue Ridge Beyer (VA-08) and Representative Phil Roe
policy development and programs related to
Bucha at the festival, who donated proceeds to the (TN-01) are avid A.T. hikers and champions.
stewardship of the A.T. and its surrounding
Appalachian Trail Conservancy from their sales of a The Appalachian Trail Conservancy (ATC) is
lands and resources. The Council takes a lead
new Appalachian Trail brew. ¶ Flip flop thru-hikers can honored by their leadership in the U.S. House
role in volunteer engagement, outreach and
enjoy benefits like milder weather, a longer time frame on Trail issues. ¶ The caucus provides a venue for
education, and identifying and mitigating
to complete the Trail, and moderate terrain in which to members and their staff to quickly gain important
threats to the Trail. Members are expected to
start. Flip flop thru-hikes also help conserve the Trail information regarding Trail events and the ATC’s
attend two, two-day meetings each year and
by reducing overcrowding and sustaining communities priorities, encourage rural economic development
participate actively on council committees.
along the Trail. anchored by outdoor recreation while preserving
Committees typically meet once per month,
usually by e-mail or conference call. The a “wild” A.T. corridor, and is a convening space
Learn more at : appalachiantrail.org/flip-flop for ATC members who are interested/engaged in
deadline for nominations is August 15.
improving public lands (specifically Trail lands). Is
For more information visit: your U.S. Representative a member of the caucus?
appalachiantrail.org/council2019
For more information visit:
Springer Mountain – Photo by Niki DiGaetano appalachiantrail.org/takeaction
20 A.T. Journeys / Summer 2019 Summer 2019 / A.T. Journeys 21trailhead
A Soft Spot for Hardcore A .T.C A
MP
By Josh Kloehn Work completed as part of
the 2019 Hardcore week: pl a n
Originated by the Tennessee Eastman Hiking and Canoeing
Club (TEHCC) under the charismatic leadership of Bob
Peoples, Hardcore is an opportunity for current thru-hikers
87 Rock Steps a h e ad
3 Rock Waterbars
and previous Hardcore participants to give back to the A.T.,
34 Sq Ft of Rock Crib
learn about trail work, and actually get dirty and perform
Trail rehab that occurs after Trail Days in Damascus, Virginia. 578 Sq Ft of Scree to close off
braided social trails
After 16 years of projects, TEHCC passed the Hardcore
baton on to the next A.T. Maintaining Club north — the 10 Stepping Stones
Mount Rogers A.T. Club (MRATC), and the Appalachian Trail 13 Drainage Dips
Conservancy's Konnarock Trail Crew. This season, 2019
marked the fourth year that MRATC and Konnarock hosted
6 New Blaze Posts
Rehabbed over a third of a mile of
✓
Register
and led the Damascus Hardcore crew. Taking advantage a heavily-used section of the A.T.
of the skilled and veteran Konnarock volunteers, they each
took three to four Hardcore volunteers under their wing
and tackled Trail rehabilitation projects up in the Grayson
Highlands. ¶ “This year, my partner NAB (“Not A Botanist”)
for A.T. Campsites
and I (“Unicorn”) are flip flop thru-hiking the A.T. and we
decided to sprinkle a little Hardcore on the journey to really
to Reduce Crowding
spice it up after Trail Days,” says Phoebe Anderson. “NAB
and I are both avid conservationists, and we wanted to do
our part to help maintain this incredible trail. Hardcore was
an awesome and humbling way to do so. I now understand
the hours of work each set of rock stairs took to install, and
the hundreds of thousands of hours that have been put in
over the years to make this thing possible.”
A.T. Camp was designed to help groups plan their hikes while avoiding
overcrowding and related natural and social impacts at camping
areas. Register your hiking group and receive immediate notifications
2019 Hardcore Trail Crew – By Willie Johnson
ATcamp.org
22 A.T. Journeys / Summer 2019Wild East
Time Travel
★★★★★
T h u n de r r e v e r be r at e s . Winds gust. Ahead lies a
stone shelter built by the Civilian Conservation Corps in the 1930s. To
your right, century-old tree roots tangle among rock walls of a long-
forgotten farm. Underfoot, the soils may hide an arrowhead chiseled
by a hunter 9,000 years ago, or a stray bullet from the Civil War. The
boulder you touch to steady yourself could well be a billion years old.
You quicken your step with the urgency of all who have come before
you to find refuge in a storm.
Every footfall on the Appalachian National Scenic Trail connects
to the flow of human history that is anchored in geology and influenced
by the north-south mountains and gaps. It is here in the Wild East
when outdoors, and within the largest natural corridor east of the
Mississippi River, that time travel feels possible.
As I prepare for a backpack trek across several magnificent balds
this summer, I’m studying up on more than the thrushes, warblers,
and vireos I hope to hear and see. I’m willing to add the extra weight
of relevant history pages from the A.T. Guide to Tennessee-North
Carolina, along with the A.T. Thru-Hikers' Companion. The trick is to
grasp the big picture beforehand and then study the clues and stories
for each day. At the Clyde Smith Shelter, I’ll look for two rows of maple
trees that signal an old driveway to a
vanished homestead. Near the junction
with Highway 19E, I’ll scan for black
magnetic iron, leftovers from the long- By M a rina Richie
closed Wilder Mine, where ten railroad
cars hauled the last ore away in 1918. Il lustr ation Tim Bow e r
When I hike over Jane Bald Summit,
I’ll think of the two North Carolina
sisters, Jane and Harriet Cook, and their ill-fated 1870 trek home from
visiting relatives in Tennessee. Harriet fell ill with milk sickness (from
cows eating a kind of snakeroot and poisoning the milk) and was too
weak to walk. They spent a freezing November night on this ridge. Jane
hurried for help in the morning. Rescuers brought Harriet out by
24 A.T. Journeys / Summer 2019 Summer 2019 / A.T. Journeys 25wagon, but she died the next day. She was 24.
Stories are sprinkled throughout the Trail. They
link hikers to poignant dramas and significant
historical events.
The Big Picture
Without the Appalachian Mountains, the history
and culture of North America would be far differ-
ent. The definitive ranges have long served as bar-
rier, passage, and life source. Headwaters of rivers
spring from cracks. Ancient rocks expose iron,
coal, and quartzite. Every
change in elevation hosts plant
and animal life intimately tied Each December, the
to the mountains and in turn Annual Antietam
to the livelihoods of people. National Battlefield
The rigor of mountain life fos- Memorial Illumination
tered music in Appalachia, in Maryland takes place
inspired poetry, myth, and to honor those soldiers
fueled the indomitable human who fell during the Battle
spirit seeking the solace of, of Antietam with 23,000
and the sacred in, high places. candles — one for each
Some 480 million years soldier killed, wounded,
ago, the buckling, folding, and or missing at the Battle
faulting of colliding continen- of Antietam – Photo
tal plates defined violent be- courtesy the National
ginnings, perhaps a prelude to Park Service
what would come much later
in human conflicts. Once, the
Appalachians jutted skyward as high as the Hi-
malayas. Over the millennia, a series of mountain
building events shaped the ranges of today. Ero- ★★★★★
sion gentled and lowered the summits, yet there
are no shortage of steep ascents, rocks, and roots From Georgia to Maine,
interspersed with the bliss of ice-cold springs,
waterfalls, sheltering forests, wildflower mead- the A.T. traverses
ows, and the gaps between high points that played history — not in
a vital role in human history.
From Georgia to Maine, the A.T. traverses his- straight lines, but more
tory — not in straight lines, but more like skip-
ping stones. In New York, cross the Bear Moun- like skipping stones.
tain Bridge on the Hudson River and feel the icy
retreat of glaciers that carved the valley. Listen ★★★★★
for the ghostly echoes of gunshots fired by Revo-
lutionary soldiers from hillsides, the splash of
oars a century earlier when Dutch settlers headed
to the interior to farm the highlands, and the
almost silent paddles of Native Americans slip-
ping up and down the river as they had for thou-
sands of years before European arrival.
Barrier
For the tribes that flourished before European
arrival, the Appalachians were not a barrier, but
26 A.T. Journeys / Summer 2019 Summer 2019 / A.T. Journeys 27part of the seasonal round that offered good hunt-
★★★★★ quenching springs are natural places for camps
14 State
ing and gathering. However, they concentrated dating back thousands of years. A f lat spot
their villages and agriculture in the fertile valleys nearby to sleep, shelter from wind, and southern
and at the confluences of rivers. Hikers on the A.T. exposure would add even more attractive quali-
can cross homelands of first nations that include ties. Later, moonshiners would build whiskey
History Tour
the Micmac, Passamaquoddy, and Abenaki of New stills by certain springs, especially if not far from
England. The Seneca, Cayuga, Oneida, Onondaga, corn, rye, and wheat ingredients.
Mohawk and Tuscarora all united as the Iroquois Trickling springs converge into streams and
confederacy in New York. Penn- then mighty rivers. The New River, coursing 320
sylvania is home to the Lenape ★★★★★ miles from the Blue Ridge Mountains of North
and Susquehannock, and to the Members of Outdoor Afro Carolina is one of the world’s oldest. About 300
south, the Cherokee formed the on the A.T. during their to 270 million years ago, continental collisions
To whet your
largest of the Appalachian tribes. 40-mile Underground formed the supercontinent Pangea and, as they
For white settlers from the Railroad hike – Photo
history and shoved masses of rock into mountains, the river
culture appetite,
sixteenth to seventeenth centu- courtesy Outdoor Afro TEnnessee/ system lifted with them.
ries, the daunting march of Ap- here’s a sampling North The high elevations in turn offered a corridor
palachian Mountains formed a from the Trail Carolina for northern forests to expand far southward, and
physical obstacle, and then a
Outdoor Afro A.T. Trip retraces — one for each Border for the great migrations of birds catching updrafts
mystical frontier between the Atlantic and the
the Underground Railroad of the 14 states. Yellow Mountain Gap & and finding shelter. Those natural qualities
wonders of the West. The arrival of some 200,000 the Revolutionary War persist in the Wild East, along with the relics of
Scotch-Irish from 1710 to 1775 marked a push into In 2016, seven African Americans re-traced the historical logging, clearing the woods for farms, fuel, and
route of the Underground Railroad along a 40-mile Georgia A band of Tennessee patriots
the spine of the Appalachians. Initially, they stretch of the A.T., from the Mason-Dixon line south to White Oak Stamp headed east to fight the Tories war. Awe-inspiring primeval forests remain in
sought cheap land and a new life in New Hamp- Harpers Ferry. Equipped with high-tech backpack gear, Mountain Culture in the 1780 Battle of Kings pockets and within the Great Smoky Mountains
shire and Maine. Many moved on to Pennsylvania the hikers still shivered in torrential downpours as they Mountain in South Carolina. National Park, saved from the saw by the rugged
envisioned the hardships and life-threatening dangers Until the early 20th Century, When drifting off to sleep at
and others to the southern mountains, giving rise mountain families lived an
terrain and the foresight of early conservationists.
of fugitives from slavery. Outdoor Afro, the oldest black- the Overmountain Shelter,
to the music and culture of Appalachia. Another off-the-grid lifestyle in nearby There’s a renewal story, too, in the returning
led conservation group, organized the trip. Find out imagine those men also seeking
barrier appeared in the clash of cultures as the more at: outdoorafro.com hollows. The word “stamp” refers a camp for the night and their forests and in our evolving relationship with
Scotch-Irish intruded upon the tribal homelands, to a place to keep livestock. fears of what lay ahead. They’d trees, valuing them for storing carbon, anchoring
contributing to tragic episodes in mountain his- Flat areas like this were hard drawn arms to fight back after watersheds, hosting wildlife, and nurturing the
to find. The families burned the British Major Patrick Ferguson
tory. None are more infamous than the Cherokee understory on ridges to clear the
human spirit.
threatened the “overmountain
Trail of Tears that followed the 1830s Indian Re- way for cattle, hogs, and sheep settlers” with hanging for
moval Act. to munch on new green growth taking the side of rebellion. The National Historic Treasure
By the twentieth century, the high peaks and Native American route. Can you hear their ghostly and acorns beneath sheltering Overmountain Victory National Step back and consider the sheer quantity of
ridges would pose a literal barrier for pilots in bad snorts and pawing hooves in the winds? The major oak, birch, buckeye, chestnut, Historic Trail intersects here on history and culture resonating along the 2,191
and beech. White Oak Stamp, the A.T.
weather. German balloonists crashed in high gaps funneled transportation routes, from trails along with Buck Creek and
miles of Appalachian Trail. The National Park
winds on Thunder Hill on Virginia’s Blue Ridge to railroads to highways. Chunky Gal Mountain, harbors Service-led surveys in 2002 and 2009 listed
dur ing a 1928 race, and sur v ived. In New In times of war, the gaps proved strategic places fine stands of old-growth, high Virginia shelters, Civilian Conservation Corp camps,
Hampshire, a Northeast Airlines plane struck a to defend. During the Civil War, Confederates and altitude forests. James River — Longest viewpoints, roads, bridges, buildings, monu-
ridge below Moose Mountain, killing 32 of 40 on Union forces sought to control access to the Shenan- Foot Bridge on the A.T. ments, fire towers, railroad grades, and moon-
board. Audie Murphy, World War II hero and doah Valley — both for its resources and as a thor- North Spanning 625 feet over the shine stills to tally more than 1,200 features. The
actor, died when the small plane smashed into oughfare for supplies and regiments. Three gaps on Carolina James River, the bridge is list goes on from prehistoric sites to quarries,
Brush Mountain near New Castle, Virginia in the A.T. in the Shenandoah National Park section Wayah Bald aptly dedicated to 1987 kilns, and mines of early industry that gave way
thru-hiker Bill Foot, whose
1971, marked by a trailside monument. Since 1920, proved pivotal for the Confederates in 1862 — Observation Tower to richer prospects west.
efforts resulted in this unique
more than 55 planes have crashed in what is now Browns, Rockfish, and Swift Run Gaps. The three-story-high stone footbridge. Looking down at Why does the A.T. harbor so many clues to our
the Great Smoky Mountains National Park, In that same era, beginning in 1851, slaves tower was built by the CCC in the currents, drift back in time past, and so many opportunities for time travel?
including an Air Force Phantom jet that slammed seeking freedom navigated a mountainous route 1937. Visitors can gaze across 15,000 years when nomadic Volunteer Trail clubs deserve immense credit for
into Inadu Knob in 1984. Fragments are still near or on today’s A.T. to cross the Mason-Dixon ridge upon ridge of the Smoky peoples followed spawning maintaining Civilian Conservation Corps-era
visible from the Trail. line into Pennsylvania. Most of the Underground Mountains — a view shared by a runs of fish, then 3,000 years rock walls, steps, cabins, shelters, and fire towers.
crew lifting heavy rocks 72 years to an era of farming, villages
Railroad routes likely followed the more forgiving ago. Wayah comes from the and pottery making, 500 years Hikers contribute by practicing Leave No Trace
Passage mountain flanks. Cherokee word for wolf. Almost to Spanish explorations, and ethics to prevent vandalism, litter, and removal
Every gap, notch, or valley between mountain wiped out by predator control 150-plus years to the Civil of historic artifacts. The more than 40 recognized
ranges signals a passage for animals and people Life Source efforts of the early 1900s, a War. Confederates relied on the Appalachian Trail Communities are leaders in
alike. Once plentiful until the mid-1700s era of The Appalachians have long sustained life, from reintroduced population of the river for transport, and later as geotourism that sustains our natural and cultural
highly endangered red wolves defensive barrier against Union
plunder, eastern buffalo funneled through the rivers and forests to wildlife, plants, soils, and face a tenuous future to the east forces that in turn would benefit heritage. They support museums, exhibits, and
Blue Ridge’s Bearwallow Gap, also an ancient arguably the human soul as well. The thirst- in the Albemarle Peninsula. from the river for attack. culture that in turn enrich the hiking experience.
28 A.T. Journeys / Summer 2019 Summer 2019 / A.T. Journeys 29★★★★★
★★★★★ 14 State History Tour
★★★★★
Without the Appalachian Mountains,
Pennsylvania
the history and culture of North Caledonia Iron Works
America would be far different. West Virginia Underground Railroad
Harpers Ferry Abolitionist Thaddeus Stevens
★★★★★ John Brown’s Raiders employed freed or fugitive
slaves at his Iron Works,
Abolitionist John Brown chose constructed with a partner
Harpers Ferry in 1859 in part in 1837, and destined also to
because of the mountainous be a stop on the Underground
corridor to freedom, and the Railroad. Freedom seekers
rough terrain for guerilla heading north from Caledonia
warfare. The aborted attack likely traced the A.T.’s route
on the federal arsenal in through Michaux State Forest
Harpers Ferry — on a site to Pine Grove Furnace. In June
first championed by President of 1863, Confederate General Where the Cherokee Trail of
George Washington in his Jubal A. Early ordered his men Tears Intersects the A.T.
second term — set the stage to burn the Iron works. Stevens Where A.T. hikers and paddlers converge at
for the Civil War. Home to the rebuilt in 1865, and advocated the Nantahala Outdoor Center, only 181 years
Appalachian Trail Conservancy for racial equality in Congress ago Cherokee families hid in laurel thickets to
headquarters, Harpers Ferry until his death in 1868. evade captors. The U.S. military forced most of
lies at the confluence of the
the 17,000 Cherokees and four other tribes to
Potomac and Shenandoah
Rivers. History is as thick as New Jersey march to Oklahoma reservations in 1838-39. At
least 4,000 died of hunger, cold, and disease.
a humid summer’s day here. Wawayanda Mountain
Today, the Trail of Tears is a national historic
Forests blanket the once — Forging Iron from an trail covering 5,000 miles of routes west.
cleared hills where cannons Ancient Mountain
fired. Harpers Ferry changed
Along this ridge, the In October of 2018, members of the Eastern
hands eight times between
Appalachians expose some of Band of Cherokees gathered with partners
1861 and 1865.
their oldest rocks — billion- from the Trail of Tears Association, and NPS
year-old slabs of gneiss staff from that national historic trail, and the
Maryland and crystalline, when early ATC to dedicate North Carolina’s first Trail
Battle of South Mountain life bloomed in the form of of Tears historic marker at the Nantahala
algae. In the 18th and 19th Outdoor Center’s junction with the A.T. One
Union and Confederate soldiers arrow points five miles to Fort Lindsay, where
Century, miners sought iron
battled for the future of soldiers rounded up the mountain Cherokees,
ore for forges in nearby Vernon
Maryland on September 14, and the other arrow points 895 miles to
Valley. The origin of the word
1862 on this ridge between the Woodhole’s Depot in Oklahoma. The Museum
Wawayanda comes from the
Potomac and the Pennsylvania of the Cherokee Indian, in nearby Cherokee,
Lenape people, translated as
border. Confederate General North Carolina, is dedicated to “preserve and
“winding water” or “water on
Robert E. Lee arrived first to perpetuate the history, culture, and stories of
the mountain.”
defend the gaps. The Union’s the Cherokee people.”
General George B. McClellan
charged with 28,000 men New York
to attack Fox and Turner’s Dover Oak —
gaps, and later that day sent
9,000 men to Crampton Gap. Largest Oak on the A.T.
The outnumbered 12,000 The 21-foot-circumference and Left: A marble slab monument on
Confederates withdrew by 114-foot-tall giant witnessed the A.T. in Massachusetts marks the
nightfall. The Confederates lost a parade of history for the past last battle of Shay’s Rebellion – By
2,685 men to the Union’s 2,345 150 to 300 years (its exact age Raymond Salani III; Above: A new
casualties. Three days later at unknown). Perhaps passenger
Antietam, 23,000 men would pigeons once perched in the
sign marks the intersection of the
be killed or wounded in one day. branches — birds that shook Trail of Tears historic route with
the air with millions of wings, the A.T. at the Nantahala Outdoor
and in 1914 blinked out Center – Photo by Kristina Moe
forever after being hunted
into extinction.
30 A.T. Journeys / Summer 2019 Summer 2019 / A.T. Journeys 31★★★★★
Ultimately, we owe the plethora of historical
treasures to Benton MacKaye and his 1921 vision
for the creation of a footpath along the eastern
14 State History Tour
U.S. We also owe those gifts to Arthur Perkins
★★★★★
and Myron Avery whose early efforts led to the exposed the metamorphic
completion of a marked A.T. in the 1930s. Skip Connecticut Cheshire quartzite, formerly
Housatonic River — sandstone before heated and
ahead to the National Trails System Act of 1968 compressed. The A.T. traverses
The Lure
that designated the Appalachian National Scenic Beyond the Mountain Place a 30-mile stretch of the Robert
Trail, creating a holistic park and jump-starting Housatonic comes from the T. Stafford White Rocks National
Mohican “usi-a-di-en-uk” Recreation Area.
of Discovery
an ambitious project to acquire and preserve the
that translates “beyond the
Trail within a publicly-owned corridor. That effort mountain place.” Strolling the
is 99 percent complete. This is the “People’s Trail,” A.T. along the river, reflect on New Hampshire
where volunteers make the difference, everyone the significance of the A.T. as
Crawford Notch
shares credit, and the Appalachian Trail Conser- protector of headwaters and Volunteer history
watersheds. The Housatonic 1826 Landslide
vancy leads with the National Park Service as of the a.t. / B y L e a n n a J o y n e r
River flows 149 miles from Thomas Moran captured
partner, along with other agencies like the U.S. the Berkshires, nurtures the frailty of humans within
Forest Service and local community members in a watershed the size of Crawford Notch’s grandeur in
the 14 states. The journey of protection is far from Delaware, and enters the his 1839 painting depicting The Appal achian Tr ail was an idea
Long Island Sound. the aftermath of the first conceived in 1921 and was designed and built by
landslide of June, 1826, that ordinary citizens over the decades. Spurred by
rumbled down the White
★★★★★ Massachusetts Mountain slopes after heavy
early champions and the essential route-finding
rains. Innkeeper Samuel Willey, led by others, at the center of the effort was a
Shays’ Rebellion of 1787 shared vision for a place that offered reprieve
along with his wife and five
The rigor of mountain The A.T. skirts a weathered children moved to safer ground, from our rapidly industrializing nation and pur-
life fostered music in rock monument to Daniel
Shays, a farmer upset by
only to be struck two months
later by a second mudslide that
pose in applying one’s skills toward a greater
Appalachia, inspired high state taxes and lack of killed them all. There is now
cause. Their efforts captured the “lure of discov-
ery,” as A.T. founder Benton MacKaye described
compensation for serving
poetry, myth, and in the Revolutionary War. In
a Wiley House with exhibits
and surrounding hiking trails in it, mobilized through the hiking groups founded
fueled the indomitable 1787, Shays and other leaders
(including Luke Day who’d
Crawford Notch State Park. in New England, through the Mid-Atlantic and
human spirit. ridden with Benedict Arnold
into the South. ¶ The most unique facet of the
to Quebec in 1775) raided the Maine Trail, alongside scenic beauty, is the roughly 6,000
federal arsenal in Springfield Benedict Arnold’s volunteers organized through 31 A.T. partner clubs
★★★★★ for weapons. The attack failed. Heavy Portage of 1775 that keep the Trail alive over its 2,191 miles from
The men scattered, and most Maine to Georgia. The 1968 designation of the Trail
were pardoned. The remaining Benedict Arnold led 1,150
Revolutionaries on a failed as the Appalachian National Scenic Trail acknowl-
rebels (but not Shays) were
over, as new threats emerge along with a recogni- arrested in this field. The attack on the British in Quebec edged the importance of public investment to the
tion of the need to expand conservation efforts rebellion would inform the in 1775. The route coincides long-term management of the A.T. ¶ We call this
for a wider and more buffered Wild East. debate over state versus with the A.T. between Middle public investment the Cooperative Management ★★★★★
federal powers by the framers and West Carry Ponds. Arnold
The next step? Historians hope to see the chose the Abenaki portage and
System. It respects volunteers as co-managers of
entire A.T. added to the National Register of of the U.S. Constitution. this public resource that they helped design and The most unique facet of
paddle trail known as the 13
Historic Places, offering more protection from Mile Great Carrying Trail, the build. It’s an important legacy for all of us who the Tr ail, alongside scenic
development, funding for restoration, and greater Vermont safest and shortest way to link love the Trail, and a model nationwide for rein- beaut y, is the roughly 6,000
public appreciation. Little Rock Pond the Kennebec and Dead Rivers. vesting citizens in their public lands as stewards volunteers organized
9,000-Year-Old Quarry In contrast to the Abenaki people through 31 A.T. partner clubs
For my own small journey on the A.T. this portaging birchbark canoes, the
and protectors. ¶ Through the Cooperative Man-
summer, I’m feeling inspired to hike with greater agement System, the Appalachian Trail Conser- that keep the Tr ail alive,
Ten thousand years ago, an exhausted army men hefted
attentiveness to layers of history and the stories avalanche of quartzite boulders 220 wooden boats (bateaux), vancy serves as the convener and helps lead the over its 2,191 miles from
floating on the breeze, conveyed in the bird songs, tumbled down White Rocks each weighing 400 pounds. management of the A.T. in 14 states, through Maine to Georgia.
Cliffs, close by Little Rock Pond The Maine A.T. Club erected an
shining down from brilliant stars, and stirring eight National Forests, six National Park Service
in southern Vermont. Ancestors interpretive sign by Arnold Point,
among untended apple orchards merging with of the Abenaki and Mohican where the army camped.
units, two National Wildlife Refuges, and 74 ★★★★★
wild forests. I believe if you want to time travel, peoples once quarried the other state parks/forests and other lands.
you need to remove yourself from the hustle, quartzite to shape arrowheads
noise, and technology of our modern society. and tools. Archeologists Myron Avery with measuring wheel on the Knife Edge
unearthed a 9,000-year-old
There’s no better place than within the Wild East in 1933 — on his way to set his first summit
projectile point in 2010. During
and the lifeline of the Appalachian Trail. the Ice Age, glacier scouring sign – Courtesy Maine State Library
32 A.T. Journeys / Summer 2019 Summer 2019 / A.T. Journeys 33You can also read
