The art of horological complications 2020/2021 - Wempe
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the art of horological complications 2020/2021
THE ART
OF Horological
Complications
© Gerhard D. Wempe KG, Hamburg 2020
Author: Thomas Wanka 2020/2021
Noble radiance BREITLING 81
Metal bracelets make wristwatches into sporty luxury items 8 Chronomat Limited Wempe Edition 82
ROLEX 19 HUBLOT 85
Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II 20 Big Bang Integral Titanium 86
Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 40 22
CHOPARD 89
PATEK PHILIPPE 25 Alpine Eagle Chronograph 90
Nautilus Chronograph 5980/1R 26
Nautilus 5711/1R 28 GIRARD-PERREGAUX 93
Laureato Infinity - exclusively available at Wempe 94
BREGUET 31
Marine Tourbillon Équation Marchante 32 ROGER DUBUIS 97
Classique 7337 34 Excalibur Spider Huracán 98
A. LANGE & SÖHNE 37 FERDINAND BERTHOUD 101
Odysseus 38 Chronomètre FB 1 102
Zeitwerk Minute Repeater 40
ULYSSE NARDIN 105
JAEGER-LECOULTRE 43 Executive Blast Black 106
Master Control Chronograph Calendar 44
Master Grande Tradition Grande Complication 46
TUDOR 109
Black Bay Fifty-Eight Navy Blue 110
CARTIER 49
Pasha de Cartier 50
TAG HEUER 113
Carrera Heuer 02 114
VACHERON CONSTANTIN 53
Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin 54
WEMPE IRON WALKER GLASHÜTTE I/SA 117
Iron Walker Automatic Chronograph 118
IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN 57 Iron Walker Automatic Diver‘s Watch 120
Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 58
LONGINES 123
GLASHÜTTE ORIGINAL 61 Spirit Pilot‘s Chronograph 124
Senator Cosmopolite 62
MONTBLANC 127
WEMPE CHRONOMETERWERKE GLASHÜTTE I/SA 65 Heritage Manufacture Pulsograph Limited Edition 128
Chronometerwerke Automatic Pilot‘s Watch Bronze 66
NOMOS GLASHÜTTE 131
Tangente Sport 132
175 Years of Watchmaking in Glashütte 68
ERWIN SATTLER 135
PANERAI 77 P 100 Bauhaus 136
Luminor Marina Fibratech 44 MM 78
Foreword
Time was originally measured according Our second retrospective peers a bit fur-
to the position of the sun, which is why ther back in time to a structural develop-
Romance languages use the same word for ment program that began exactly 175 years
“weather” and “time.” The advancement of ago in the small, impoverished town of
society can also be seen in the evolution of Glashütte in the Erz Mountains. This pro-
time measurement, whose progress went gram’s unparalleled success proved that the
from the sundial to the geared clock and intentional establishment of watchmaking
then the atomic clock. The accuracy of in Glashütte was indeed the right decision.
timekeeping, along with its global stand- The industry’s history is marked by polit-
ardization and formalization, served as a ical upheavals, but the town’s inhabitants
motor for the industrialized modern age. were able to hold their own at all times and
It also contributes to the feeling that the under all circumstances thanks their com-
pace of life has accelerated. mitment to watchmaking. This is why out-
standing mechanical timepieces are still
To prevent the past from becoming a manufactured in Glashütte today.
hasty form of the present, this edition of
The Art of Horological Complications Wempe wrote an important chapter in this
takes a look to the past – but not too far ongoing success story. Our family-owned
back. We focus our attention on the 1970s, company renovated Glashütte’s observatory,
a decade that was a colorful field of experi- establishing our own watch production
mentation, especially in popular culture. facility and Germany’s only chronometer-
The watch industry likewise found crea- testing facility there.
tive ways to combine contrasts. One was a
new generation of sporty luxury watches, Cordially yours,
recognizable by their integrated bracelets
made of stainless steel or precious metal.
Nowadays these watches serving as role
models for new editions are sought-after Hellmut Wempe
collector’s items.
T H E A RT O F H ORO LO GI C A L COM PL I C ATI O NS
Foreword 7
Noble radiance – renowned observatory in Kew, England
metal bracelets make in 1914, Wilsdorf equipped every Rolex
wristwatches into watch with a caliber that could pass the
sporty luxury items chronometer test. Precision was no longer
an unresolved issue, but resistance to water
Legendary watchmaker Abraham-Louis in its exposed position on the wrist re- Rolex President bracelet
Breguet made the first known wristwatch mained problematic. When Mercedes
in 1810; its recipient was none other than Gleitze attempted to swim across the Eng-
Napoleon’s sister, the Queen of Naples – lish Channel in 1927, Wilsdorf recognized they must begin their ascent without from the outset with a stainless steel
and for many decades thereafter, wearing the potential of her undertaking. “The exhausting their limited supply of air, tak- bracelet, it was the first watch with a uni-
a wristwatch was considered extremely Wonder Watch That Defies the Elements” ing into account any pauses for decompres- directionally rotating bezel to preset the
unmanly. The vest pocket was where a proclaimed a headline in the Daily Mail sion that might be necessary along the way. intended dive time. Rolex chose the three-
gentleman wore his watch, the quality and when Wilsdorf gave the swimmer a watch Émile Gagnan collaborated with oceano- row Oyster bracelet it had developed in
material of whose chain indicated his social to carry with her on her adventurous swim. grapher Jacques-Yves Cousteau to develop the late 1930s to serve as the attachment for
status. Only after half a century had passed She wore the world’s first water-resistant a breath regulator called the Aqualung its Submariner, which was created in 1953
in 1943; thanks to a breathing mixture in- and officially launched in 1954. These first
side a pressurized cylinder, this innovation metal bracelets were comparatively simple
made scuba diving possible – and diving constructions, but nonetheless empirically
soon became important in military applica- proven and sturdy. The riveted stainless
tions. Armies in many different countries steel bracelets on Tudor’s Black Bay models
set up special divisions for frogmen. Recre- are reminiscent of these early attachments
ational diving first became popular in and pay tribute to the pioneering divers
Rolex Oyster bracelet the 1990s and afterward developed into a of yesteryear. When Rolex presented the
sport enjoyed by countless amateur divers. Oyster Perpetual Datejust in 1945, it was
was the struggle for supremacy between wristwatch – appropriately called the With the increasing demand for watches equipped with a matching metal Jubilee
the pocket watch and the wristwatch “Oyster” and patented the year before – not conceived expressly for divers, engineers bracelet. The President bracelet was intro-
ultimately decided in favor of the latter. on her wrist, but around her neck. The first at watch brands focused their efforts on duced with the Oyster Perpetual Day-Date
Among other challenges, the watch bracelet serially manufactured Oyster models were constructing seawater-resistant metal in 1956 and is still exclusively reserved for
played a decisive role in this. Describing likewise secured by leather straps. Wilsdorf bracelets. The first wristwatch developed that model today. The Pearlmaster brace-
the hurdles to be overcome, Rolex founder had big plans for wristwatches, realizing expressly for divers was the Fifty Fathoms, let debuted in 1992 and has accompanied
Hans Wilsdorf asserted in typical terse they would quickly become fashionable which Blancpain debuted in 1953. Designed the Pearlmaster ladies watch ever since.
precision, “A wristwatch that cannot be re- accessories and accordingly needed to be
lied on is not worth owning.” Wilsdorf able to “adapt to changes in taste.” Each
meticulously worked through every chal- owner would want several watches, and if
lenge. Registering “Rolex” as his brand’s they were not all acquired simultaneously,
name in 1908, a mere two years later one of then at least successively. Water-resistant
these became the first wristwatch ever to materials for wristbands became urgent
earn a chronometer certificate; after he when divers needed to know exactly how
even succeeded in obtaining one from the long they had been underwater and when Rolex Pearlmaster bracelet
8 metal bracelets metal bracelets 9
Metal bracelets also offered new possibili- epitome of a genuine luxury watch. This
ties for innovative clasps. One of the best changed in the 1970s, a revolutionary dec-
known is the Oysterclasp for all Oyster ade in more ways than one, in which new
bracelets. In some models, this closure is materials such as plastic perfectly matched
also equipped with a quick-adjustment the irresistible allure of rebellion. Novel
mechanism: the Easylink enables its wearer styling and an unprecedented indulgence
to readily adjust the bracelet by as much in vivid colors put a new face on everyday
as five millimeters. The bracelets of the life. This environment favored innovation,
Rolex Professional models are secured but a new trend in the watch industry was
by Oysterlock clasps, while those of the initially considered too revolutionary:
Submariner, Sea-Dweller, and DeepSea stainless steel wristwatches with integrat-
diver’s watches are equipped with Fliplock ed metal bracelets priced as high as watches IWC Yacht Master
and Glidelock extensions; the latter two with precious metal cases and bracelets.
mechanisms allow the bracelet’s length to Designer Gérald Genta (1931-2011) is in-
be adjusted without taking the watch off separably associated with this new epoch of Moreover, the watch case no longer needed attachments challenge every craftsper-
the wrist. Metal bracelets are the optimal steel watches. Born in Geneva and trained to be round to accommodate a spring bar son involved in their production. Patek
attachments for diver’s watches, which – at as a jewelry designer, Genta achieved his between the strap lugs. Customers’ reac- Philippe’s Nautilus serves as a good exam-
the very latest since the advent of the James first major success with Audemars Piguet’s tions ranged from cautious to reserved at the ple to illustrate the complex processes and
Bond films – can also be worn under the Royal Oak in 1972. The metal bracelet’s Royal Oak’s premiere in 1972 – as it was with diverse polishing techniques that are es-
sleeve of a tuxedo jacket. Although these direct connection to the case by means Genta’s Nautilus, which Patek Philippe sential to the success of a metal bracelet for
sporty timepieces have enabled their wear- of two smaller elements that also function unveiled in 1976, and his Ingenieur SL by a luxury wristwatch: these steps include
ers to distinguish themselves as true adven- as bracelet links achieved the unprece- IWC, the Royal Oak’s success story did not sandblasting (also known as lapping in spe-
turers, a wristwatch with a gold bracelet dented feat of making stainless steel an begin until much later. IWC is currently cialist jargon), brushing, and high-gloss
and a gold case was still considered the acceptable material for luxury watches. paying a very successful and appreciative polishing. Patek Philippe explains that
tribute to Genta with the stainless steel after the first processing by machine, no
Patek Philippe Nautilus bracelet of the Portugieser Yacht Club. In fewer than 55 manual operations are
subsequent years many models quietly dis- needed to complete the case and bracelet.
appeared from the brands’ collections, but The handcrafting process begins with
not from the memories of collectors: the each of the bracelet’s individual outer ele-
combination of small quantities and bold ments, whose undersides are sanded while
styling was very tempting for watch enthu- their upper surfaces are satin-finished. The
siasts. Rapidly rising prices paid by collec- central elements follow: each underside
tors for rare steel watches along with the is sanded while each upper side is polished.
renaissance of the mechanical watch Next comes the assembly of the bracelet:
prompted the brands to again include these individual elements are joined and pins are
models in their portfolios. The challenges inserted. Sharp edges on the bracelet’s
involved in manufacturing stainless steel upper and lower surfaces are painstak-
bracelets should not be underestimated, ingly beveled and smoothed and then
though. These elaborately constructed satin-finished to create a uniform finish.
10 metal bracelets metal bracelets 11
The next step is masking, which sees a integrated metal bracelet, which may be stainless steel. TAG Heuer, one of Hublot’s consisting of alternating polished and satin-
protective film applied to individual areas made of stainless steel or other metals, sibling brands in the LVMH Group, finished elements, it has a signature safety
on the outside of the bracelet not destined including precious alloys. Hublot is one of achieved a different historical significance clasp with a safety catch and integrated
for treatment in the subsequent finishing the latest brands to confirm the undimin- with its Aqua Racer diver’s diver’s extension mechanism.
process. Now the central elements and the ished momentum of this trend. As the third watch, which successfully Girard-Perregaux’s Laureato,
beveled edges are polished to a high gloss. word in the name of the Big Bang Integral launched in 2003. A solid which premiered along with
This is followed by fitting the clasp, adjust- suggests, a metal bracelet has been inte- stainless steel clasp with an its three-row steel bracelet in
ing its tension, and riveting the cover of grated into the flagship model of the sporty, integrated diver’s extension 1975, is likewise inextricably
three-blade clasps. Every detail is exam- expressive brand. The core of Hublot’s mechanism and safety push linked to the history of luxury
ined again during a final inspection. Gérald brand essence comprises combining pieces secures this sporty steel watches. The bracelet’s
Genta also created other groundbreaking precious metal cases with rubber straps, model’s finely brushed, three- cambered and polished mid-
designs: Omega’s Constellation as well as which helped them to achieve a break- row, stainless steel bracelet. dle part harmonizes with the
Girard Perregaux
Laureato
Longines Piaget
TAG Heuer Aquaracer Hydro Conquest Polo
Longines offered divers inter- eye-catching bezel, which
Bulgari’s Bvlgari Bvlgari and Octo are through in watches. Under the leitmotif of esting access to its collection juxtaposes straight lines and
based on his ideas. Genta designed appeal- the “fusion” concept, Hublot successfully with the launch of the Hydro arcing curves. Piaget’s Polo
ingly classic lines to go with his frequently introduced many unconventional materi- Conquest in 2007, which un- pursued a different creative
octagonal cases connected by elaborately als, some appearing in this context for the derwent various facelifts and route to its goal in 1979,
designed bracelets that adroitly combined first time. But it was not until the arrival improvements in ensuing Hublot achieving an exciting contrast
fine, multiple links. His bracelets often of the brand’s integrated metal bracelet that years. TAG Heuer has regu- Big Bang Intergral through the interplay be-
tapered toward the clasps so that one com- the decisive design task seemed solved. larly updated and optimized tween the round periphery of
ponent is hardly every precisely the same Remaining faithful to the brand’s DNA, its entire collection over the past decade the broad brushed bezel and its daring
size as another. A sporty luxury watch can the elaborate bracelet with its wide central and more, and the Aqua Racer’s stainless inner contours with four semicircular
hardly compete on the market without an elements is made of titanium rather than steel bracelet is among the beneficiaries: curves. This dialogue is enhanced by the
12 metal bracelets metal bracelets 13
proportions of the wide, satin-finished, are equipped with a double folding clasp. Santos de Cartier Parmigiani Tonda central element of the stainless steel Parmigiani likewise took a great leap bracelet with which the Polo S has been of- forward in 2020 with the Tonda GT and fered since 2016. It was not Gérald Genta, the Tondagraph GT chronograph: the but Jörg Hysek, who designed a steel brand headed by the internationally re- wristwatch with integrated bracelet for nowned restorer and watch designer Vacheron Constantin in 1977. Launched to Michel Parmigiani now presents a collec- celebrate the 222nd birthday of the brand tion of sporty watches with very slim and founded in Geneva in 1755, it served as handsomely integrated steel bracelets. a role model for Vacheron Constantin’s Panerai offers metal bracelets for some of Overseas, which appeared with its distinc- its models as well: the central section of the tive jagged bezel in 1996. The Maltese latest version recalls the conspicuous cross, which has been this brand’s regis- crown protectors of the Luminor and tered trademark since 1880, inspired this Luminor 1950; this bracelet only fits those unusual bezel, and the distinctive cross re- models obviously. The metal bracelet of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Polaris is similarly Chopard’s Alpine Eagle recalls the brand’s curs in the bracelet components. An inno- striking. Contrasting broad, satin-finished, St. Moritz model, a famous interpretation vative strap-changing system was intro- central components and polished, beveled of a sporty luxury watch. The Alpine Eagle, duced in 2016 that has since allowed the elements along the side, the bracelet skill- which is also available in a chronograph stainless steel and precious metal bracelets fully prolongs the play of light reflecting off version as of this year, has a case made of to be readily removed and replaced with the Polaris’s alternately satin-finished and a special steel alloy: Lucent A223 is un- rubber or leather straps. Cartier goes one brushed case. Breguet, which has always commonly resistant, bright, and reflective. step further: the owner of a Santos or Pasha felt very much at home in the elite world of This alloy’s sheen reminiscent of gold watch can disconnect its stainless steel fine watchmaking, now proves that it can results from the high purity of the material, bracelet and, furthermore, the bracelet’s also meet the challenges of robust watch- which is manufactured in a resource-saving components are designed so that the pins making in its Marine collection. And manner from up to 70% recycled steel. can be loosened and the links individually added or removed to alter the bracelet’s length by the owner – all without tools. With Breitling’s reissue of the Chronomat, this Grenchen-based brand retrieved the Rouleaux bracelet from its archives, which was quite popular in its day. Introduced to fete Breitling’s 100th birthday in 1984, and now in reworked form, the Chronomat is an exemplary symbol of the revival of the mechanical wristwatch. Its integrated metal bracelet with its characteristic cylindrical elements was a major contribu- Breitling Chronomat Panerai tion to this model’s success; current models Santos de Cartier 14 metal bracelets metal bracelets 15
Glashütte Original recalled Special Edition 40 Years Wempe New York
a diver’s watch from the Iron Walker Diver’s Watch
recent past: the SeaQ col-
lection is based on the
Spezimatic Type RP TS 200,
which was unveiled by VEB
Glashütte Uhrenbetriebe
in 1969. Available in a model
with the brand’s typical
panoramic date display, it
wins admirers thanks to its
uncommonly slim, three-
Nomos Club Sport Neomatik 42 row, stainless steel bracelet,
which is equipped with an
eight-step fine adjustment mechanism. Iron Walker collection from Wempe light vividly but without sparkling. The
Stainless steel played only a secondary role Glashütte I/SA. This line’s impressive wristwatch has been with us for a century,
The epicenter of German watchmaking – at A. Lange & Söhne until 2019, when the styling benefits to no small degree from the but the fastening element that earns it the
Glashütte – has recently seen elaborate and Odysseus joined this brand’s collection as integrated transition between the case and name wristwatch is not always given the at-
exciting bracelet constructions that com- its first serially manufactured stainless its bracelet: the case’s elegant lines contin- tention it deserves. Thanks to the integrat-
bine outstanding engineering and inno- steel wristwatch. The secure folding clasp ue into the H-shaped elements compris- ed bracelet, designers and engineers can
vative styling. The Sport metal bracelet on this model’s five-row stainless steel ing the bracelet, which tapers toward its explore and skillfully utilize new creative
by Nomos Glashütte is nearly as complex bracelet can be adjusted in small incre- folding clasp. These parts are vertically potentials. And the bracelet’s fluent tran-
as this brand’s watches, consisting of no ments to add up to seven millimeters to satin finished; their edges are chamfered sition into the case invites it to bask in a
fewer than 145 individual parts, all of which its length. Pressing the button embossed and polished so the bracelet can reflect well-earned spotlight.
are manually screwed together. In 2019, with the Lange logo allows the wearer to
adjust the length by pulling
or pushing the bracelet,
an adjustment can be ac-
complished without even
opening the clasp. The
steelworkers known as Iron
Walkers, whose surefooted-
ness and freedom from
vertigo raised the steel
skeletons of skyscrapers in
New York City’s urban
canyons to breathtaking
heights in the 1920s, were
Glashütte Original SeaQ the role models for the Wempe Iron Walker Diver’s Watch
16 metal bracelets metal bracelets 17
The Crown
and the Camera
Marlon Brando wore a Rolex wristwatch
when he played the role of Colonel Kurtz in
Apocalypse Now. Another Rolex timepiece
shone on Paul Newman’s wrist when he
slipped into his alter ego as pool player
“Fast” Eddie Felson in The Color of Money.
And a third Rolex was strapped to the wrist
of Bill Paxton in Titanic when he portrayed
treasure hunter Brock Lovett, who ex-
plored the famous shipwreck aboard a Alejandro G. Iñárritu
Mir submersible. The wristwatches ap-
peared in these movies not as a result of These four brand ambassadors, who were
product placement, but thanks to the per- honored for their diverse achievements
sonal preferences of the films’ directors. including a total of 57 Oscars, have made it
Rolex has been the exclusive timekeeper for their missions to share their life experienc-
the Academy of Motion Picture Arts and es with young filmmakers. Through the
Sciences since 2017 and sponsors the Rolex Mentor and Master Student Initia-
Oscars ®, which are awarded by the Acade- tive, the brand with the crown-shaped
my. Rolex is also a founding sponsor of logo supports aspiring filmmakers through
the Academy Museum of Motion Pic- mentoring and contributes to culture by
tures: designed by architect and Pritzker passing on world-renowned artistic her-
Prize winner Renzo Piano, the museum is itage. Both Scorsese and Iñárritu have
intended to serve as a central meeting mentored master students in this program.
place for cineastes and will include, among Since 2002, talented young artists from a
its other attractions, approximately 4,600 variety of disciplines have been chosen to
square meters of exhibition space and work creatively and for an extended period
a cinema auditorium with seating for of time with masters of their field. Other
1,000 viewers. Rolex also has partnerships mentors in the film genre have been Alfon-
with Kathryn Bigelow, James Cameron, so Cuarón, Stephen Frears, Mira Nair,
Alejandro G. Iñárritu, and Martin Scorsese. Zhang Yimou, and film editor Walter Murch.
T H E A RT O F H ORO LO GI C A L COM PL I C ATI O NS
ROLEX 19Oyster Perpetual facturer to design a watch for its pilots
GMT-Master II that could display the time in more than
one zone and Rolex’s Oyster Perpetual
The development of aviation surely ranks GMT-Master was born in 1955. It was
among the greatest achievements of hu- subsequently produced in numerous vari-
mankind in the twentieth century. From ants, but each has the typical 24-hour two-
Otto Lilienthal’s initial bouncing attempts color bezel for day/night indication and
and the Wright brothers’ first powered the distinctive triangular 24-hour hand.
flight, the pathway into the air pro- The GMT-Master II was powered by
gressed with extraordinary Caliber 3085 from 1982 onward.
speed toward the first This model’s 24-hour hand
commercial flight in can be reset in hourly
1914, when a flying increments to show a
boat carried passen- different hour with-
gers from St. Peters- out affecting the po-
burg in Florida to sition or progress
neighboring Tampa. of the minute and
And civil aviation second hands. The
continued its dynamic 40 mm GMT-Master II
development; pleasantly is currently available
surprised passengers were in several variations, in-
served by the world’s first stew- cluding two models in stain-
ardess on May 15, 1930. As air travel less Oystersteel with Jubilee
grew progressively more popular, flight bracelets and one model in Everose gold
attendants became commonplace aboard with an Oyster bracelet. Its automatic
airliners. In the 1950s and 1960s, commer- Caliber 3285 supports fast, independent
cial jets enabled passengers to travel to resetting of the hour hand to indicate
far-flung locations around the world faster the time in a second zone. This caliber
than ever. And suddenly there was no boasts a 70-hour power reserve and is accu-
longer only one time but more than two rate to plus or minus two seconds per day.
dozen different times, each speedily acces- Numerals and graduated markings are en-
sible simply by crossing the boundary of graved into the bidirectionally rotating Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II in 18-karat Everose gold,
its time zone. Pan Am, one of the largest two-color – brown and black – Cerachrom manufacture movement Caliber 3285, Superlative Chronometer
airlines at the time, asked a Swiss manu- ceramic bezel. (COSC + Rolex certification after casing of the movement)
20 ROLEX ROLEX 21Oyster Perpetual on the three-link President bracelet with
Day-Date 40 – The semi-rounded link elements, a bracelet
Presidential Watch that still remains exclusively reserved for
the Day-Date. The bezel’s fluting original-
Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf brought his ly served a practical purpose: it was used
vision to fruition with the introduction as a firm grasp so the component could
of the Oyster Perpetual Day-Date in 1956. be screwed to the case band, thereby en-
Since registering the Rolex brand in Swit- suring the watch’s water resistance. The
zerland in 1908 his aim had been to build bezel fluting therefore corresponded to
the perfect wristwatch, which he its counterpart on the case back.
approached with the Oyster Rolex built special tools to
featuring a water- and screw the case’s back to
shock proof case. Cer- the case band, thus
tified chronometers, making the watch
his movements en- uncommonly water-
joyed a reputation resistant. The fluting
for high precision. serves only aesthetic
The premiere of the pur poses nowadays.
automatically winding The Oyster Perpetual
Perpetual rotor in 1931 Day-Date is offered solely
made his Oyster watches in gold. The Day-Date 40
indispensable timekeepers in houses Caliber 3255, which was
daily life. Rolex celebrated its fortieth launched in 2015. Equipped with a bidi-
anniversary with the Datejust in 1945, and rectionally winding rotor, this automatic
Wilsdorf presented the 100,000th chro- movement boasting a 70-hour power re-
nometer to none other than Winston serve relies on a progressive Chronergy
Churchill in 1947. The Day-Date followed escapement. Its two components – lever
as the “Presidential Watch”: this iconic and escape wheel – are made of a nickel-
model is most often seen gracing the phosphorus alloy that are resistant to
wrists of presidents, leaders, and visionar- magnetic interference. The escape wheel
ies. With the full weekday spelled out at is openworked, which reduces its weight
12 o’clock and the date in a window at and thus also its inertia, thereby boosting Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 40 in 18-karat Everose gold,
3 o’clock, the Day-Date remains true to its its efficiency. The rate is accurate to with- manufacture movement Caliber 3255, Superlative Chronometer
basic characteristics. This model comes in plus or minus two seconds per day. (COSC+ Rolex certification after casing of the movement)
22 ROLEX ROLEX 23New Premises Create equally striking due to its emphatically
New Opportunities modern architecture, which distinguishes
the building as a new landmark in Plan-les-
Accommodating complex and complicated Ouates. Spacious glass surfaces – plenty of
things in the smallest of spaces is a Patek daylight is indispensable for watchmakers –
Philippe specialty. Almost a quarter of a are subdivided by bronze-colored fire es-
century after inaugurating the first factory capes inspired by similar constructions on
building in the Geneva suburb Plan-les- buildings in New York City and white con-
Ouates, in 2015 the manufacture decided to
lay the foundation stone for a new building.
Patek Philippe’s watch collection had
evolved considerably during the preceding
quarter of a century; complicated watches
currently comprise nearly half of all models,
where so-called useful complications like
annual calendars, the “weekly” calendar,
time zone displays, and world-time watches
are enjoying particularly strong growth.
This has lead to an increase in the average
number of components per watch and cor-
responding complexity in the production Patek Philippe manufacture building
process. The new building nonetheless
proved essential despite the fact that no in- crete walkways along the entire length of
creases are planned to the annual produc- the façade. The building resembles an enor-
tion of 62,000 watches; the yearly quota is mous ocean liner with clearly defined forms.
naturally limited by the extremely strict The interior is divided into five segments,
quality requirements of the Patek Philippe which can be accessed via four staircases
Seal. Construction work on the new build- and more than 20 passenger and freight
ing was completed and production activi- elevators. An auditorium offers seating for
ties commenced there at the beginning of up to 299 persons. The building is crowned
2020. And Patek Philippe’s new building is on the fifth floor by a penthouse restaurant
already impressive thanks to its sheer size: with 880 seats and a fantastic panoramic
189 by 67 by 34 meters with ten floors, in- view of the surrounding countryside as
T H E A RT O F H ORO LO GI C A L COM PL I C ATI O NS cluding four underground stories. It is well as four lounges for VIP guests.
Patek Philippe 25Nautilus 12-hour totalizer is positioned at 6 o’clock.
Chronograph 5980/1R The 5980’s rose gold case spans 40.5 mm
when measured across the dial’s center from
The octagonal bezel tracing gentle curves the 10 to the 4, and it is 12.2 mm in height. It
rather than straight lines unmistakably is also water-resistant to 12 bar, which cor-
bears the signature of Gérald Genta, who responds to a depth of 120 meters. Its Ca-
first sketched Patek Philippe’s Nautilus in liber CH 28-520 C consists of 308 com-
1976. A chronograph encasing powered by ponents, including 13 bridges. When fully
Caliber CH 28-520 C was added to the col- wound, it boasts a maximum power reserve
lection to celebrate the thirtieth anniversary of 55 hours. This movement’s Gyromax bal-
of the Nautilus; its pushers triggering the ance is paced at 28,800 vibrations per hour
chronograph’s functions are discreetly inte- and equipped with a Spiromax hairspring,
grated into the case, which resembles a port- unveiled by the Patek Philippe Advanced
hole. The broad, satin-finished bezel, the al- Research Department in 2006 and made of
ternatingly polished and satin-finished sur- Silinvar®, which was likewise developed by
faces of the case, and the integrated flanks of Patek Philippe and presented the year
the bracelet create an appealing and varied before. The name combines syllables bor-
play of light. The dial’s embossed decora- rowed from the words “silicon” and “invaria-
tion with black gradient is another typical ble.” Monocrystalline silicon is extremely
feature of the Nautilus, while the hands and temperature stable, lightweight, twice as
applied gold indices glow in the dark. The hard as steel, and very resistant to wear and
chronograph’s combined 60-minute and tear. A Spiromax hairspring has less mass
and is only two-thirds as tall as a Breguet
hairspring, so it undergoes less stress from
gravity and impacts. Patek Philippe patent-
ed the geometry of the spring with its char-
acteristic thickening at its outer end, the
integrated fastening for its balance spring
stud, and its self-centering integrated collet
– features that contribute to the watch’s ac-
curate timekeeping. The Patek Philippe
Seal introduced in 2009 confirms that the
watch’s rate does not stray beyond the nar-
row range from –3 to +2 seconds per day. 18k rose gold, self-winding movement, chronograph
26 Patek Philippe Patek Philippe 27From Wetsuit ingredients for a model soon to become a
to Tuxedo – classic. When this watch was launched in
Nautilus 5711/1R 1976, customers first had to get used to its
modern design. New materials, colors, fab-
The first design of the Nautilus is the brain- rics, and shapes were revolutionizing the
child of Gérald Genta, the ingenious de- look of daily life in the 1970s, but a sports
signer who conceived numerous stainless watch from Patek Philippe still seemed un-
steel watches in the 1970s. Patek Philippe familiar to many customers. History soon
brought him on board to create a sportier bestowed success on the innovative spirit of
watch model that would enable the brand the family-run manufacture. The Nautilus
now ranks among the world’s most
sought-after watches. Its name comes from
Jules Verne’s famous novel Twenty Thou-
sand Leagues Under the Sea. The portholes
of Captain Nemo’s eponymous submarine
had a similar oval shape in some depictions.
Like a ship’s window, the bezel is screwed to
the case. This was necessary in order to
achieve water resistance to 120 meters
(12 bar), which was rather deep according to
the standards of the time. The model’s dar-
ingly creative advertising slogan was, “It
looks as sharp with a tux as it does with a
scuba suit.” The Nautilus underwent a ju-
to appeal to a new customer base. Genta dicious facelift in 2006 when it was given
certainly delivered the goods: the eye- a three-part case and a central second hand.
catching porthole design, the interplay of Automatic manufacture Caliber 26-330 S C
polished and satin-finished components, can be viewed through the sapphire crystal
and the prominent integrated bracelet case back. Water resistance to 12 bar and
initially made of stainless steel were the the integrated bracelet remain unchanged.
18k rose gold, self-winding movement
28 Patek Philippe Patek Philippe 29More than Seductive
Embellishments
It was Abraham-Louis Breguet who first
used guilloche patterns to decorate time-
pieces in 1786: the impressive aesthetics
of the final result lent a silky appearance
and pleasant texture to the watch’s case.
Breguet’s real interest, however, was in
the additional functionality offered by a
guilloche pattern as the technique protects
the decorated object against wear and
scratches that tended to mar smoothly
polished surfaces. Guilloche, it turned
out, also improved light reflection, making Guilloche engraving under a microscope
the dial easier to read; additionally, differ-
ent decorative patterns could be used to process. On the contrary, everything here
mark off each indication such as the hours is handcrafted and only possible thanks to
and minutes, the seconds, a power-reserve manual guidance: while the artisan’s left
display, and various other counters. Guil- hand turns a crank to drive the machine,
loche is a mechanical handcraft comprising his or her right hand pushes a carriage
delicate and precise engraving of the ma- holding the graver tool, which engraves the
terial with complex patterns consisting of material. Great skill and many years of
straight, curved, continuous, and broken experience are required in order to master
lines. This fine work is carried out with the all the subtleties of this art form, which the
aid of a hand-guided guilloche tool capable Breguet brand continues to cultivate at
of producing circular figures or linear its manufactory in L’Orient, in the heart of
patterns. A skillful artisan can lead the fine the Vallée de Joux. In workshops expressly
grooves (guilloche patterns) to run parallel created for this purpose, approximately
to or cross one another, thus forming a twenty specially trained craftspeople work
repetitious, symmetrical pattern. Although with both historical and modern guilloche
the technique requires the aid of a machine, machines that were designed and manufac-
it is by no means an automated industrial tured in-house.
T H E A RT O F H ORO LO GI C A L COM PL I C ATI O NS
Breguet 31Ménage à Trois collection. A first glance at the dial con-
of Superlatives firms that this line literally has sailor’s
blood in its veins: an exquisite guilloche
The Renaissance man Abraham-Louis pattern in the form of little waves creates
Breguet, an all-around genius, was interest- maritime accents on the watch dial. The
ed in all areas of watchmaking, but particu- Marine Tourbillon Équation Marchante,
larly in marine chronometry, a specialized without a doubt the technical flagship of
field that was already leading horological the line, is a masterpiece of haute horlog-
research during Breguet’s lifetime. Not erie combining three of the most sophisti-
only among the great seafaring nations cated grand complications: a one-minute
were precise nautical instruments for con- tourbillon, a perpetual calendar, and an
quering the oceans the timepieces of the equation of time display. The so-called
hour. Breguet, who was a member of the equation indicates not only mean time but
Bureau des Longitudes, was appointed also true solar time, which can differ from
watchmaker of the Royal Navy by King mean time by up to +16 or -14 minutes over
Louis XVIII in the autumn of 1815. This the course of a year. It is linked to the
marked the beginning of a tradition that perpetual calendar, which, as if by magic,
continued into the 1960s and is now beau- will automatically take into account the
tifully expressed in the brand’s Marine differing lengths of the months until the
last day of February 2100. The retrograde
date display is a charming addition, whose
hand hurries back to its starting position
after reaching the end of its 180-degree
scale. The technical virtuosity is further
enhanced by a slender caliber: this rare
gem is powered by extra-thin automatic
Caliber 581DPE, which boasts a silicon
escape wheel, a silicon balance spring,
and an 80-hour power reserve. A total of
563 components nestle into a very small
volume of space, working together in per-
fect harmony to display the time – and so
much more. 18k rose gold, self-winding-movement,
tourbillon, perpetual calendar
32 Breguet Breguet 33Consummate Simplicity The special fascination of Breguet wrist- watches lies in their perfect proportions, which lend a profoundly harmonious and elegant appearance to this manufacture’s exquisite timepieces. Beginning with the numerals and indexes, continuing with the hands and indications, then to the case and bezel, and culminating in the strap and clasp, perfection in form results from the meticulously measured dimensions of every element, including the tiny, barely visible details. This harmonious charm is particu- larly expressive in the Classique line; con- subdials were also not a mere aesthetic gim- noisseurs often agree that these timepieces mick, but served to clearly distinguish are the ones epitomizing Breguet watches. among the displays. These are flanked in Each pays homage to the brand’s ingenious the Classique 7337 by two cloud-shaped founder, whose legacy is reflected in diverse windows in which the date and the weekday facets of the watch. Arguably the most out- appear. Enthroned above this ensemble, standing example is the new Classique 7337 the moon phase display also indicates the with its guilloche dial, whose intense blue current age of the earth’s companion, which color acquires unique radiance thanks to is portrayed in white gold against the back- diverse filigree patterns: a barleycorn motif ground of a naturalistic starry sky. As in for the periphery of the hour circle, a check- every Breguet watch, the external aesthet- erboard pattern for the small seconds sub- ics reflect the fascinating mechanical inte- dial, and the famous clous de Paris motif in rior. A pane of sapphire crystal in the back the dial’s center. It is well known that this of the white gold case reveals extra-thin au- rare handcraft is a style-forming feature tomatic Caliber 502.3 QSE1, which is lav- that traces its ancestry to Abraham-Louis ishly and traditionally finished by true Breguet, who introduced it in 1786. The masters of their crafts. Modernity, on the original purpose of guilloche was not to add other hand, is embodied by the innovative embellishment to Breguet’s pocket watches, silicon hairspring enhancing the precision 18k white gold, self-winding movement, but to improve their legibility. Off-center of the timekeeping. moon-phase display, small seconds subdial 34 Breguet Breguet 35
Every Watch Is Meticulous finishing is even lavished on
Assembled Twice parts that are later hidden. Each Lange
movement is then meticulously assembled
There is only one quality standard at and finely adjusted until all mechanical
A. Lange & Söhne: perfection. All compo- parts perfectly interact – only to be com-
nents are elaborately finished by hand and pletely disassembled afterwards, at which
each watch is assembled twice, no matter time all parts are painstakingly cleaned.
whether the timepiece is a perpetual cal- The finest finishing and polishing is also
endar, a minute repeater, an automatic, or applied to the component surfaces later
a simple three-handed model. One reason visible through the sapphire crystal on the
for this repeated assembly is the three-quar- back of the case. Only after the three-quarter
ter plate: introduced by Ferdinand Adolph plate has been decorated with characteristic
Lange in 1864, it provides more support to Glashütte ribbing and the last gold chaton
the movement’s moving parts as a single has received its high-gloss polish is the
spacious bridge spans the entire gear train. movement assembled a second time using
But this capacious plate also makes assem- up to eight different lubricants. And now
bly more difficult because even an experi- thermally blued screws replace the provi-
enced watchmaker must screw it on and off sional screws used in the first assembly.
several times until each individual shaft
provides optimal vertical play. A second
reason for assembling the movement twice
is that the three-quarter plate is traditional-
ly made from nickel silver. This special alloy
of copper, nickel, and zinc ensures that the
movement is held with great stability. As
time passes, the alloy also acquires a warm,
subtly golden patina that naturally protects
the plate’s surface and makes galvanic coat-
ing unnecessary. However, this handsome
patina is unforgiving: a fingertip can leave
a permanent print and an inaccurately
guided screwdriver can cause light scratch-
es. Many long hours are spent finely finish-
T H E A RT O F H ORO LO GI C A L COM PL I C ATI O NS ing and polishing nearly all components. Fitting of the balance spring
A. Lange & Söhne 37Odysseus case with a grey dial, the dark background
of which enhances the legibility of the
A. Lange & Söhne’s latest model family is white gold hands and notched baton-
already welcoming a new member: the shaped applied markers. These handsome-
Odysseus, introduced in 2019, is the first ly match the large date numerals and
stainless steel watch produced in series by weekday display, whose white letters stand
the Saxon manufactory. Robust construc- out against a grey background. The hour
tion and a case water-resistant to a depth of indices are noctilucent, as are the hour and
120 meters mean that this model can also minute hands. The dial gains an appealing-
be worn in situations where a precise me- ly vivid and almost sculptural quality
thanks to an embossed grooved texture
beneath the applied hour markers and sub-
dial scale for the seconds. This contrasts
with the matte inner surfaces of the main
dial and subdial. Above and below the
crown, wedge-shaped push pieces to ad-
just the date and weekday lend a distinctive
shape to the tripartite white gold case. An
interplay of brushed matte surfaces and
polished bevels adorns the case and strap
lugs. Manufacture Caliber L155.1 Datomatic
ticks inside the case, a movement whose
name alludes to its combination of date
mechanism and automatic winding. Ensur-
chanical watch would not typically accom- ing a highly stable rate, the balance vibrates
pany its wearer. A large weekday window at at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per
9 o’clock, diametrically opposite the outsize hour (four Hertz), while recessed regulat-
date at 3 o’clock, distinguishes this sportily ing screws minimize air turbulence that
elegant timepiece. In addition to the stain- could adversely affect the rate. The move-
less steel version, the Odysseus is now also ment boasts a maximum power reserve of
available in white gold with an integrated 50 hours, while a large central rotor with
leather or rubber strap. The new model a peripheral platinum weight ensures re-
combines an 18-karat white gold 40.5 mm liable winding. 18k white gold, self-winding movement,
small seconds subdial, sapphire crystal case back
38 A. Lange & Söhne A. Lange & Söhne 39Zeitwerk structed so that the number of tones chim-
Minute Repeater ing full-hour, ten-minute, and single-
minute intervals is scanned directly from
The Zeitwerk Minute Repeater is the only stepped snails connected to the display
wristwatch in the world to combine me- mechanism. This ensures that the audibly
chanical jumping numerals with a decimal announced time always precisely matches
minute repeater. It had been available only the time shown on the dial. A spring barrel
in platinum since its premiere in 2015, but supplies the energy for the striking mecha-
now A. Lange & Söhne presents a limited nism, while a push piece on the side of the
edition of thirty pieces in 18-karat white case triggers the Zeitwerk’s minute repeat-
er. By omitting a conventional slide, the
case is more effectively sealed; the watch is
water-resistant to three bar. Manufacture
Caliber L043.5 is equipped with sophisti-
cated safety mechanisms to guarantee reli-
able functioning of the complex striking
mechanism under all circumstances. Me-
chanical conflicts could occur if time set-
ting were initiated while the repeater is
chiming, so the system delays advancing
the numeral disks should this happen.
Likewise, for safety’s sake, the crown can-
not be pulled out while the striking mecha-
gold cases with deep blue dials crafted in nism is active. This also ensures that the
solid silver. The striking mechanism of the acoustic time indication always perfectly
Zeitwerk Minute Repeater chimes double corresponds to the time displayed. Finally,
strokes at ten-minute intervals rather than the striking mechanism cannot be trig-
the usual quarter hours – which matches gered if the watch’s remaining power re-
the “digital” display of the time, so what you serve is less than twelve hours, which
see is what you hear. The gongs and ham- means that the chiming is always complet-
mers are unobtrusively integrated into the ed and the watch cannot stop running while
dial’s design and meticulously tuned by the repeater is striking. A red dot on the
hand to produce a rich and harmonious power-reserve indicator scale indicates the 18k white gold, hand-wound movement, digital display,
sound. The striking mechanism is con- crucial twelve-hour mark. minute repeater, sapphire crystal case back
40 A. Lange & Söhne A. Lange & Söhne 41The Quest for with the ultra-slim Hybris Mechanica 11.
Crystal-Clear Sound It ensures that even when the quarter hours
are not struck, the minute chimes immedi-
Among grand complications, the minute ately follow the hour strokes. Calibre 950,
repeater is regarded as extremely sophis- which was launched in 2019, embodied an-
ticated and demanding. It gives a voice
to time: the user can trigger it to chime
the hours, quarter hours, and minutes en-
tirely as desired. A true master in this field,
Jaeger-LeCoultre had already developed
approximately 100 minute repeaters up to
1900. The fact that the original mechanism
is still valid and needs improvement only
in its details speaks to the genius of the
watchmakers of yesteryear, who found
ways to install a melodic ensemble within
the small volume of space bounded by
the case of a pocket watch. This is why
Jaeger-LeCoultre now focuses on optimiz-
ing the sound. The manufacture relies on Gongs of the Master Grande Tradition
modern methods and technologies, e.g. Répétition Minutes Perpétuelle
synthetic sapphire crystal, to assure a per-
fect audible experience. The “crystal gongs”, other premiere in the form of an innova-
which were patented in 2005, are soldered tively designed gong. Instead of a flat
directly onto the watch glass, which reso- arrangement of overlapping coils, the two
nates along with the gong and thus ampli- gongs wind in the same direction almost
fies its sound. In order to produce an evenly once around the movement’s periphery
powerful strike, the little gongs are square before bending upwards to form two semi-
in cross-section and have a flat surface circles around the upper part of the move-
against which the even tinier hammers ment. This improves the resonance and
strike. The speed and power of the blow is assures that the chimes ring with a crystal-
optimized by the trebuchet hammers, clear sound, which is emotionally echoed
which debuted in 2009. Jaeger-LeCoultre by connoisseurs in the form of incompara-
T H E A RT O F H ORO LO GI C A L COM PL I C ATI O NS introduced a new synchronisation function ble moments of happiness.
Jaeger-LeCoultre 43Master Class presents a new generation of watches
whose styling is inspired by several iconic
The Master Control collection has shone watches of the 1950s – the Memovox,
with virtuosic mechanics and unmistaka- Futurematic, and PowerMatic models for
ble elegance since 1992. When it premiered example. True to these role models, the
on the stage of Swiss haute horlogerie, it not stylistic revision prioritized timeless de-
only convinced aficionados with its func- sign with a focus on detail and function.
tionality, practicality and aesthetics, but The case radiates a simple elegance with a
also set new standards thanks to a novel modern touch expressed through its
quality certificate. With the advent of this well-proportioned diameter of 40 millime-
ters, a bezel that slopes slightly downward
toward the outer rim, and dynamically
curved strap lugs. The same elegance also
distinguishes the silver dial with its deli-
cate sunburst finish. The technical
highlight is the Master Control
Chronograph Calendar, which is
powered by new Caliber 759. The au-
tomatic movement boasts a 65-hour
power reserve when fully wound
and is equipped with a complex
column-wheel chronograph with ver-
tical clutch as well as a full calendar with
weekday, month, date pointer, and moon
phase indicator. A chronograph augment-
certificate, Jaeger-LeCoultre fired off a ed with these calendric complications is
starting signal for a rigorous testing pro- a first for Jaeger-LeCoultre. Despite its nu-
cess – the “1,000 Hours Control” certifi- merous displays, the dial is well balanced
cate – in which the encased movement and intuitively legible. Even the sharply de-
is thoroughly tested for 1,000 hours be- lineated strokes of the pulsometer scale
fore the completed watch may to leave the along the flange blend harmoniously into
manufacture. This year, Jaeger-LeCoultre the expressive overall picture.
Stainless steel, self-winding movement,
chronograph, full calendar, moon-phase display
44 Jaeger-LeCoultre Jaeger-LeCoultre 45Heavenly Trinity complex striking mechanism is set in
motion by activating the slide in the left
Jaeger-LeCoultre brings three large com- flank of the case, this wristwatch’s wearer
plications to the wrist with the Master hears what they see and sees what they
Grande Tradition Grande Complication: a hear. Jaeger-LeCoultre has been a master
minute repeater, a tourbillon, and a sidereal of repeating watches for over 150 years and
calendar. Each of these complications is a has devised numerous innovations to per-
masterpiece in its own right, but as a trio fect the quality of their sound. For example,
they embody a rare achievement in modern to benefit from the unique acoustics of
synthetic sapphire crystal, the patented
gongs are soldered directly to the sapphire
crystal, which resonates along with the
gongs, thus amplifying their sound. While
the repeater musically delights the ears,
the eyes can feast on an orbital tourbillon
and a detailed miniature celestial map de-
picting the starry firmament as it appears
above the Vallée de Joux. The displays and
functions are as complex as the construc-
tion: the tourbillon not only rotates around
its own axis once every 60 seconds, but also
completes one complete revolution per
sidereal day above the multilevel dial. The
sidereal day lasting 23 hours, 56 minutes,
and 4.1 seconds is accordingly somewhat
shorter than the solar day upon which our
haute horlogerie that very few manufacto- civil time is based; astronomers use these
ries in the world have mastered. Perhaps approximately four extra minutes to follow
the most demanding of these feats of watch- the visible motion of celestial bodies across
making is the minute repeater, a function the night sky. A small golden sun at the edge
that can be triggered by its wearer to chime of this watch’s constellation disk indicates
the time whenever desired. As soon as the the date, month, and zodiacal signs and
precisely orchestrated ensemble of the points to the 24-hour scale on the flange. 18k rose gold, tourbillon,
self-winding movement, moon-phase display
46 Jaeger-LeCoultre Jaeger-LeCoultre 47Centurial Witnesses never to have taken it off, even during
breaks between shots. Nobody seemed to
Gary Cooper, Alain Delon, and Gunter be bothered by the fact that the Tank’s cool,
Sachs wore them. As did Princess Diana, classic appearance contrasted starkly with
Catherine Deneuve, and Jackie Onassis. Valentino’s opulent oriental costume. And
Cartier’s celebrity factor is unique even precisely herein lies the secret to the suc-
in the luxurious world of the rich and fa- cess of all Cartier timepieces: they brilliant-
mous; iconic timepieces from ly unite contrasts and seem to
this exclusive house have shone take delight in playing with
on the wrists of the international them. Cartier’s bold and inci-
jet set throughout the last cen- sive designs (square, rectangu-
tury. The Tank, history’s first lar, round, or cushion-shaped)
unisex wristwatch, is particu- coupled with the accentuation
larly popular: important politi- and perfection of selected de-
cians such as Jacques Chirac, tails have resulted in veritable
leading avant- garde artists, icons of timekeeping for more
members of the intellectual than a century. Needless to say,
scene, and the most famous Cartier’s experts have mas-
fashion designers, including tered all disciplines of jewelry
Yves-Saint Laurent and Jean- and craftsmanship. The time-
Charles de Castelbajac, all wore pieces’ exteriors are so expres-
Tanks. A legendary quip is sive that one could almost
attributed to Andy Warhol, Tank de Cartier forget how exquisite their in-
who didn’t think it necessary to in an teriors are. That would be a
wind his Tank: “I don’t wear it to asymmetric shape most lamentable omission be-
tell me the time,” the Pop Art cause Cartier has evolved into
icon is reputed to have once said in his a full-fledged manufacture under the di-
characteristically brusque manner. Many rection of chief watchmaker Carol Foresti-
legends have grown up around the Tank. er-Kasapi. From spectacular tourbillons to
Actor Rudolph Valentino is said to have secret watches and perpetual calendars,
insisted on wearing his Tank during the the maison de Cartier has mastered the en-
entire shooting of The Sheikh’s Son and tire repertoire of haute horlogerie.
T H E A RT O F H ORO LO GI C A L COM PL I C ATI O NS
Cartier 49You can also read
