ISSUE 88 SEPTEMBER 2021 - DEFENCE FORCE DRESSED IN WOOL - Australian Wool Innovation
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ISSUE 88 SEPTEMBER 2021 PROFIT FROM WOOL INNOVATION www.wool.com 07 10 26 DEFENCE FORCE WOOL’S ECO CHALLENGE COVID ADVICE DRESSED IN WOOL IN EUROPE FOR WOOLGROWERS
08 ANDY MURRAY WEARS 50 E LIMINATING THE WOOL AT WIMBLEDON CATCH AND DRAG EDITOR Richard Smith E richard.smith@wool.com Australian Wool Innovation Limited A L6, 68 Harrington St, The Rocks, OFF-FARM ON-FARM Sydney NSW 2000 GPO Box 4177, Sydney NSW 2001 3 Letter from the new AWI Chairman 26 COVID – advice for woolgrowers P 02 8295 3100 4 WoolPoll 2021 27 COVID – advice for in the shed E info@wool.com W wool.com AWI Helpline 1800 070 099 5 AWI’s Review of Performance 28 FeralScan up-to-date pest monitoring SUBSCRIPTION 6 AWI consultation forums 30 Making More From Sheep education Beyond the Bale is available free. To subscribe contact AWI 7 ADF dressed in wool 31 Natural Capital Accounting P 02 8295 3100 E info@wool.com 8 Andy Murray takes wool to Wimbledon 32 Land stewardship benefits confirmed Beyond the Bale is published by Australian 10 Wool’s eco rating challenge in the EU 34 Lifetime Ewe Management Wool Innovation Ltd (AWI), a company funded by Australian woolgrowers and the 11 Devold’s reversable base-layers 35 Sheep reproduction advice on video Australian Government. AWI’s goal is to help increase the demand for wool by actively 12 “Buy better, buy wool” campaign 36 Merino Lifetime Productivity selling Australian wool and its attributes 38 Genetics update through investments in marketing, innovation 13 Natural dyes for a natural fibre and R&D – from farm to fashion and interiors. 14 Hedrena’s Aussie wool apparel 40 AWI breeding publications COPYRIGHT 15 Custom tailoring with InStitchu 42 Flystrike management advice Material in Beyond the Bale is copyright. 43 AWI flystrike publications 16 Limestone Coast wool quilt range Reproduction of the material is encouraged. However prior permission must be obtained 17 Knitting yarns in big demand at Nundle 44 Annual flystrike management plan from the Editor. 18 International Woolmark Prize explained 46 Pneumonia in lambs DISCLAIMER 48 Hi-tech to prevent shearing injuries To the extent permitted by law, Australian 21 International Woolmark Prize2021 Wool Innovation Ltd excludes all liability 50 Modular sheep delivery unit for loss or damage arising from the use of, 22 Wool education is tops in China or reliance on, the information contained in 23 Wool education shows value in Japan 52 Shearer and wool handler training this publication. The Woolmark symbol is a certification mark 24 Latest wool fashions at regional shows 52 Preparing sheep for shearing registered in many countries. © 2021 Australian Wool Innovation Ltd. All 24 Perfect Perendale wool bags 53 Contamination: ‘Keep the Clip Clean’ rights reserved. 54 Hand-on stockmanship training ADVERTISING SALES 56 Horizon scholarship Steve Luxford, Pulse Hub Pty Ltd P 0429 699 553 56 Breeding Leadership applications E steve.luxford@pulsehub.com.au Advertising is subject to terms and conditions 58 Market Intelligence update AWI INVESTMENT STRATEGIES published on the ratecard, which is available 60 EMI recovering Sheep Production, from Pulse Hub. Marketing Consultation Science & Technology 61 WoolQ and SustainaWOOL ISSN Processing Innovation 1447-9680 & Education Extension Traceability 62 Readers’ photos 63 Seasonal conditions forecast FRONT COVER CONNECTING WITH AWI Woolgrower Michael Taylor with his two daughters, Nina and Lydie, on the family farm wool.com AWI E-NEWSLETTERS: at Kentucky on the Northern Tablelands of NSW. Michael took part in an AWI-funded To subscribe to the free monthly AWI e-newsletter Natural Capital Accounting project that has feedback@wool.com for woolgrowers, and the weekly wool market review helped Michael consider the contributions that e-newsletter, visit www.wool.com/subscribe his property’s natural assets make to his farming business. See pages 31-33 for details. wool.com/podcast THE WOOLMARK COMPANY Front cover, bottom right photo credit: Maksym Belchenko twitter.com/woolinnovation woolmark.com facebook.com/AustralianWoolInnovation twitter.com/woolmark youtube.com/AWIWoolProduction facebook.com/thewoolmarkcompany Instagram.com/AustralianWool youtube.com/thewoolmarkcompany View Beyond the Bale online at This magazine is printed on PEFC BtB http://beyondthebale.wool.com Instagram.com/thewoolmarkcompany (Programme for the Endorsement of Forest Certification) paper stock. AWI STATE-BASED GROWER NETWORKS AWI-supported networks are present in each state. • Sheep Connect NSW • BESTWOOL/BESTLAMB (VIC) • Sheep Connect SA • The Sheep’s Back (WA) • Sheep Connect Tasmania • Leading Sheep (Qld) Find your grower network at www.wool.com/networks or call the AWI Helpline on 1800 070 099. GD4277
UPFRONT 3 A LETTER FROM Reduced revenue = reduced investment AWI CHAIRMAN, These key marketing and R&D issues for the industry, and many others, need investment. JOCK LAURIE But AWI has been hampered in the past couple of years in this respect. In 2020/21, AWI’s expenditure ($61 million) was 39% lower than it was two years ago. This was in response to the company’s deteriorating revenue which fell by 44% Mr Laurie was elected by AWI shareholders to the AWI to $57 million in 2020/21. This is the lowest annual revenue that AWI has ever had in the Board on 20 November 2015. He was appointed as Chairman whole of its 20-year history. of the AWI Board on 30 June 2021, following Ms Garnsey’s Our total revenue is to a large extent resignation as Chairman. dependent on income from the wool levy, which has more than halved during the past two years due to the reduction in the wool Marketing priorities levy rate from 2% to 1.5%, the unsettled EMI, The first area of concern is the impact of and the fall in Australia’s wool production COVID on the global market for wool. With caused by the drought. the decline in demand for clothing due to lockdowns, AWI held back a lot of its 120 marketing funds until a time when people started spending again. China was the 100 first country whose economy recovered, so we invested in a big campaign there that 80 $ millions resulted in strong demand. Other economies such as the UK are now recovering. It is 60 absolutely crucial that we make sure that wool is front of mind of consumers when 40 they return to buying clothes. COVID and growing concerns about 20 the environment have focused consumers’ 0 attention on the eco-credentials of products 2018/19 2019/20 2020/21 and we are doing more to increase people’s awareness of wool’s natural, renewable Levy revenue Total expenditure and biodegradable benefits. A worrying Other revenue issue is the environmental impact labelling Jock Laurie Chairman, proposals in the European Union that, Australian Wool Innovation counterintuitively, would rate wool poorly AWI operates in a lean, efficient in comparison to man-made plastic fibres. and transparent manner, but just like We are putting a lot of effort in the EU to any business with a reduced income, O n behalf of Australian woolgrowers, I would first like to thank the immediate past Chairman Ms Colette Garnsey for her help ensure that wool is considered by the authorities correctly and appropriately. we had to make cutbacks in staffing and projects. We are dipping into the reserves which the company has built contribution to the wool industry through On-farm priorities up during past years for tough times like her role as Chairman and as a director of In the on-farm area, concerns about a lack of right now. But continued drawing down AWI. Colette’s understanding of the industry shearers have been exacerbated by COVID, on our reserves is not sustainable in the beyond the farm gate has been of great value with some uncertainty as we head into long term. Reduced revenue equates to to the industry. spring. AWI already funds a lot of shearer reduced investment. Stepping into the role of Chairman, I and wool handler training but the industry Our industry has many opportunities feel honoured to be given the opportunity needs more. It’s very important that we but also many challenges. I assure you to lead AWI given its critical role in get novices involved and get them trained, that I will work to ensure that AWI, your supporting an industry I have been involved but also get them into work and give them R&D and marketing company, will operate in all my life. I am a grazier from Walcha and support during the following few months in the interests of you the woolgrowers Merinos are the backbone of my enterprise. so they can go from shearing a handful of of Australia that help fund AWI, and They provide multiple income streams and sheep to getting some more competitive ensure the best possible results with the have been very good for my family business numbers, so they can make a living. available resources. over several generations. Flystrike management is the other big An important part of my role as concern in the on-farm area. It is a critical Chairman is to ensure that AWI is listening issue and we have recently approved an to woolgrowers and other stakeholders extra $650,000 to fast-track the potential about the issues that concern them, development of a commercial vaccine. AWI acknowledging those concerns and making is an R&D and marketing company, so we sure they are discussed at board level, and fund research and provide tools, options and More information then agreeing on a plan to address the market information to woolgrowers so they Hear more from Mr Laurie issues. Everybody should have a voice, can make up their own mind as to how best in Episode 190 of AWI’s everybody should be heard and all views to manage flystrike on their property. It’s The Yarn podcast, available at should be taken seriously. I am listening not up to AWI to tell any grower what they www.wool.com/podcast and AWI is prioritising and addressing key should or shouldn’t be doing; we will support issues for the industry. growers’ right to make up their own mind.
4 UPFRONT Detailed information about what level of investment AWI can undertake for each levy option is included in the Voter Information Memorandum being mailed out to woolgrowers this month. What is WoolPoll? of WoolPoll to be changed to 5 years with the When is WoolPoll? WoolPoll is a poll of eligible wool levy payers, objective of providing greater stability in the September: Eligible wool levy payers conducted every three years, to determine levy rate. This question is being put forward will receive their voting papers, a Voter the levy rate paid to AWI for industry in the 2021 WoolPoll via the ballot paper to Information Memorandum (containing research, development (R&D) and marketing. test the preference for a 5-yearly poll more details about how AWI proposes to invest Currently the levy rate is 1.5% (of the sale widely with levy payers. the levy funds at each of the five levy price woolgrowers receive for their shorn rate options), details about AWI’s levy rate greasy wool). Why vote? recommendation, plus a summary of an At this WoolPoll, eligible woolgrowers WoolPoll is the opportunity for levy payers independent review of AWI’s performance are asked to consider five levy rate to directly influence how much funding AWI (2018/19 to 2020/21). options: 0%, 1.0%, 1.5%, 2.0%, 2.5%. Eligible will receive for the ensuing period until the Monday 13 September: Voting opens. woolgrowers can vote for one or more levy next WoolPoll to deliver R&D and marketing Voting will be by post, email, fax or online rates in order of preference. services for the Australian wool industry. – as per the instructions that will be sent The levy rate that receives the with the voting papers. highest number of votes will be paid by Who can vote? Friday 5 November: Voting closes at 5pm all woolgrowers for the next three years If you have paid $100 or more in wool levies (AEDT). (2022/23 – 2024/25). The levy rate takes effect over the past three financial years, you are 19 November: The WoolPoll result will from 1 July 2022. eligible to vote in WoolPoll. For each $100 be announced at AWI’s Annual General In the 2020 WoolPoll Review, it was of levy paid, you are entitled to one vote. Meeting. The levy rate takes effect from suggested that an additional question be put Your voting entitlement is determined from 1 July 2022. forward to levy payers, for the 3-yearly cycle records of your wool sales. Have your say on the wool levy rate Chairman of the WoolPoll Panel, Steven of enormous change and opportunity for Bolt, is a woolgrower from Corrigin, the Australian wool industry. I think the WA. He is principal of Claypans Merino outlook for the wool industry is really stud and a Director of The Livestock positive,” Mr Bolt said. Collective. “WoolPoll 2021 is the opportunity for “We’re predominantly a mixed farming woolgrowers to vote on what levy rate operation here, so we run our Merino they want for the next three years for operation 50-50 with our cropping our industry. Your levy choice will help operation. I’ve grown up with a real determine the level of investment within passion for the sheep and wool industry. key areas such as market development, I’m a third-generation sheep producer on-farm research, education and looking forward to continue for a and training. long time to come,” Mr Bolt said. As Chairman of the 2021 WoolPoll Panel, “It is vitally important for all woolgrowers Mr Bolt has been leading the efforts to – no matter where you live – to cast your get a strong turn out by growers when vote for the levy rate you want to pay.” voting gets under way on 13 September. Steven Bolt, Chairman of Steven Bolt, the WoolPoll Panel. “It is an honour and a privilege to be WoolPoll Panel Chairman Chairman of the WoolPoll panel at a time
UPFRONT 5 Independent AWI Review of recommends Performance 2% levy Recognising the significant challenges faced by The Board of AWI is recommending AWI and the wool industry during the past three woolgrowers vote for a 2% levy in years, a recent independent review of AWI’s the upcoming WoolPoll. performance concluded that “AWI’s performance AWI Chairman Jock Laurie says has been appropriate” and the company “has an increased levy from the current shown notable improvement”. 1.5% will deliver more industrywide investment that benefits all Australian woolgrowers. “Our industry has opportunities A WI has welcomed its most recent independent review of performance by Accenture Strategy. The key achievements Mr McCullough commented: “For woolgrowers, the report means that their company, AWI, is being rigorously evaluated but also many challenges and highlighted in the report included every three years, so opportunities for AWI that’s why we need the extra demonstrated strength in AWI’s marketing, to do better can be identified and addressed. investment. Without an increase as well as its significant flexibility in “As well as being complimentary in the wool levy, good projects that pivoting to digital campaigns through on many things that AWI does, the most help growers will not be acted on COVID-19; and the improvement in AWI recent report also highlighted AWI’s positive or delivered as quickly. It would be Board and organisational culture, being more response to the previous (2018) review like fighting with one hand behind positive, constructive and collaborative. of performance. our back,” he said. “We appreciate having a regular review “In contrast to the 2018 review’s 509- by an independent company because the page report containing 82 recommendations, resulting report assists AWI to refine its this year’s review has resulted in a 60-page processes and approach to deliver long-term report containing 14 recommendations. profitability for Australian woolgrowers,” While we will address these new AWI CEO Stuart McCullough said. recommendations expeditiously, the The most recent review of recommendations in the latest review are a performance was carried out by professional demonstration of both how seriously we’ve More information services company Accenture Strategy, with considered these reviews and, importantly, www.woolpoll.com.au its report (available now on the AWI website) how far AWI has come in improving its completed in August. A summary of the performance.” report, also prepared by Accenture, will be This review was the first review sent to woolgrowers with their WoolPoll against five new Performance Principles Voter Information Kit. contained in AWI’s new ten-year SFA AWI’s Statutory Funding Agreement that was agreed in October 2020 – those (SFA) with the Federal Government allows it five Performance Principles relate to: to request AWI, every three years, to undergo (1) stakeholder engagement; (2) research, an independent review of its performance development & extension (including and make the results available to its marketing); (3) collaboration; (4) governance; stakeholders. Such an independent review of and (5) monitoring & evaluation. performance is a normal part of the WoolPoll Overall, Accenture’s evaluation is The 2021 WoolPoll Panel members are: cycle that AWI undertakes every three that AWI’s performance is meeting or part • Steven Bolt, Panel Chair years to inform woolgrowers prior to the meeting most of the performance principles. • Jo Hall WoolPoll vote. In terms of areas for improvement, the • Kate McBride The report noted the “significant report identified a need for AWI to clarify its • Dianna Martin external and internal challenges that have strategic focus, and opportunities for AWI to • John Murdoch affected the wool industry and AWI over improve its engagement with stakeholders. • Daniel Rogers the last three years”, including COVID-19 “Although Accenture’s assessment • Mark Waters as a major interruption to marketing and of AWI was broadly positive, a key task for • Michael Wright consumer purchasing and the significant them was to identify any things we can • Don Macdonald, AWI Board reduction in AWI’s budget. do better as a business. That’s what they • Christopher Dobbie, Department In summary, the report concluded: have done – and I assure woolgrowers of Agriculture, Water and the “Given this difficult context, AWI has shown that these opportunities for improvement Environment notable improvement in its performance. will be looked at closely and addressed,” AWI has achieved several significant Mr McCullough added. “The Panel’s role is to encourage all objectives with further improvement growers to have their say,” Mr Bolt said. possible. Overall, results from activities, More information Contact details of the WoolPoll surveys of levy payers and interviews The full report and a summary report are panel members are available at with AWI staff suggest that despite the available at www.wool.com/statutory- www.woolpoll.com.au difficult backdrop, AWI’s performance has obligations been appropriate.”
6 UPFRONT AWI consultation with woolgrower representative bodies A new method for AWI to consult with woolgrower representative bodies was developed with industry endorsement and rolled out in 2019. Here we outline the two consultation forums and the work that they undertake. A WI believes to be effective, accountable and productive, good consultation is essential. Chair of the WICP, Lyndsey Douglas Agricultural communications specialist A crucial component of AWI’s Lyndsey Douglas has been the consultation with industry is with independent chair of the WICP since woolgrower representative bodies. The new July 2020. Beyond the Bale asked Lyndsey model for consultation that was rolled out about the work of the consultation forums. in 2019 enables AWI to find out the key R&D What have been some of the key issues and marketing priorities of these bodies and raised by woolgrower organisations? the woolgrowers that they represent, while also providing them with information on There’s a mix of macroeconomic issues AWI activities and performance. discussed, as well as localised on-farm In developing the new consultation challenges, ideas and suggestions, and model, AWI sought to ensure that it was plenty of feedback from woolgrowers inclusive of more groups, to bring feedback for AWI on projects or initiatives it has from the varied regional and organisational invested in, based on how woolgrowers perspectives, while ensuring there was a core value those projects. Have the forums been successful? group that AWI could engage more regularly Leading up to our August meeting, panel with on more specific issues. Success for the WICP is achieved when AWI members conveyed the concerns of There are two key forums through clearly hears the opinions and feedback of woolgrowers with regard to a range of which AWI formally consults and engages a robust cross-section of regions, sectors, issues, from the impact of the ongoing with woolgrower representative groups. studs, commercial producers, fine wool, shortage of shearing contractors broad wools and so on that make up the AWI Woolgrower Industry through to the rating of wool under industry. Those opinions shape marketing, the European Commission’s Product Consultation Panel Environmental Footprint system. research and development decisions for The AWI Woolgrower Industry Consultation the future of the wool industry. Panel (WICP) comprises a core group of The meetings are a direct forum for We’re constantly reviewing and members from the following seven national questions to be asked and answered. improving the efficiency of the forums. woolgrower organisations: Topics, issues and feedback can be 1. Australian Association of Stud raised prior to or during meetings How would you characterise the forums? Merino Breeders and both AWI Board and senior staff Consensus isn’t necessarily the aim 2. Australian Superfine Wool are present to respond, as well as the of these meetings. It’s about open, Growers’ Association Department of Agriculture. constructive and diverse input on the 3. Australian Wool Growers Association Has AWI’s provision of information issues that affect woolgrowers today and 4. WoolProducers Australia about AWI activities to the forums into the future, as well as feedback on 5. Pastoralists & Graziers Association been well received? what woolgrowers believe should be the (PGA) – Western Australia focus of the industry RDC. 6. Broad wool representative AWI supplies the panel with a 7. Commercial Merino Ewe Competitions comprehensive business unit update The meetings are part information Association. on a range of topics and this has been sharing, part debate, part idea generation The WICP also includes representatives well received. It covers market analytics, but at the heart of it all is a cross from the Department of Agriculture, Water on-farm initiatives, process innovation, section of individuals who – despite and the Environment (DAWE) and the AWI education extension, traceability, WoolQ, their differences of opinion and their Board, and is led by an independent chair. emerging markets, fibre science, leaning towards a particular region or The purpose of this forum is to ensure extension networks, shearing, marketing, sector – all want to create and maintain a a clear two-way consultation between AWI and communications, for example. prosperous and sustainable wool industry. and organisational representatives through to woolgrowers. WICP meetings were held four times during the 2020/21 financial year. The WCG meets at least once a plan for woolgrowers – Wool 2030. In doing year to coincide with key dates in AWI’s so, the WCG was joined in 2020 by next AWI Woolgrower planning cycle, enabling industry feedback generation representatives. Consultation Group to be considered in the company’s decision- The second forum, the AWI Woolgrower making. However, in 2020 the WCG met more More information Consultation Group (WCG) is a broader frequently (some online due to the current Woolgrowers wanting to provide feedback group comprising 28 representatives of state COVID-19 social distancing guidelines) through the WICP or WCG are encouraged and regional production-based woolgrower because the WCG was the principal oversight to contact their member organisation. groups, as well as the members of the WICP. body for delivering the 10-year strategic www.wool.com/consultation
OFF 7 FARM Royal Australian Navy (above), Royal Australian Air Force (left) and Australian Army (below) personnel wearing their General Duty dress containing Australian Merino wool. Australian Defence Force dressed in wool by Farage All female personnel in the Australian Defence Force (ADF) have an entitlement to wear a wool blend General Duty dress produced by Australian clothing brand and Woolmark licensee Farage. A ustralian wool is contained in the new General Duty dress now being worn by female personnel in all three services of the Farage, said it was important to produce a dress for the ADF that was durable, practical and comfortable. Farage was founded in Sydney in 1998 by Joe and his wife Katy, producing contemporary and modern tailoring, ADF: the Royal Australian Navy, Australian “We worked with AWI’s subsidiary The with a focus on heritage, provenance Army, and Royal Australian Air Force. It Woolmark Company on a wool blend fabric and authenticity. The brand has gained a is a completely new item of (non-combat) comprising 40% wool along with polyester reputation for its quality and craftsmanship clothing for the ADF, providing female and nylon, plus a little bit of elastane to give and continues to attract a growing number personnel with the option of wearing a it that extra stretch. It is a very beautiful yet of loyal customers from across Australia. tailored dress to present a contemporary robust fabric that is fit for purpose,” Joe said. It has a flagship store on Sydney’s and stylish appearance. “All of the wool in the dresses is prestigious Martin Place and a store in Renowned Australian brand Farage Australian wool, with the initial 9,000 the heritage-listed Strand Arcade on Pitt was contracted by the ADF in 2019 for the garments manufactured onshore here in Street. However, most of the company’s design and production of several corporate Australia, so the garments are very much retailing is via the brand’s online store at garments, in particular the General Australian, which is very suitable given www.farage.com.au. Online sales continue Duty dress. that they are being worn by the Australian to grow significantly, especially since the Farage had previously designed and Defence Force.” COVID pandemic. produced uniforms for the flight crew of The dress has been certified by The Uniforms are an important part of the Air Force’s 33/34 Squadron, a dedicated Woolmark Company and carries the ‘Wool the business. As well as supplying the ADF, fleet servicing our top ministers and blend performance’ logo. It is a short-sleeved, Farage designs and produces uniforms for international delegates. scoop-necked and knee-length dress that has large and small companies; the brand has Following successful trials of the been produced in brown for the Army, black also been the official tailor to AFL team the General Duty dress early last year by ADF for the Navy and blue for the Air Force. Sydney Swans for the past decade. personnel, from across a variety of ranks, Farage has also produced a trench coat, the garments commenced being issued to for men and women, which has been issued More information female personnel in October. to some of the personnel in the Navy and www.farage.com.au Founder and Director of Farage, Joe Air Force.
8 OFF FARM Andy Murray takes Merino wool to Centre Court, Andy Murray competing in wool at Wimbledon, in June. PHOTO Clive Brunskill Wimbledon Andy Murray competed at Wimbledon this year in a wool, primarily from Australia, provides Merino wool blend kit, developed in collaboration with next to skin comfort and unparalleled natural performance. British sportswear brand Castore and The Woolmark “Wool is really starting to make Company, which is available for tennis fans across a comeback in performance sportwear. the world to purchase. Although leading manufacturers and brands in this sector are already promoting the natural benefits of Merino wool as a I t was “Advantage Murray” at Wimbledon this year, due to the tennis icon wearing high-performance tennis apparel “It is a reflection of the increased awareness of Merino wool’s benefits at this elite level that Castore and Andy Murray performance fibre, we believe there is still further significant potential for the fibre in this sector, such as for tennis,” Stuart said. containing Merino wool to enhance approached The Woolmark Company for Merino wool is the world’s original athletic performance. support in developing the collection. This performance fibre. No other fibre can match The apparel is part of a new tennis partnership presented a great opportunity to all of its natural benefits with exceptional collection from AMC, a premium tennis develop a high-performance tennis product breathability, thermoregulation and supreme clothing brand created by Andy Murray and also for marketing Merino wool’s softness next to the skin, helping tennis and British high-performance sports brand technical and environmental benefits. Castore. The collection – the AMC X Woolmark “Our involvement in the project has not Merino Performance collection, which only resulted in buoyant consumer purchasing The AMC X Woolmark Merino Performance collection has been certified by The Woolmark comprises elite playing kit, training kit and of this particular wool-rich collection, but it Company to ensure its durability, performance and hoodie – was developed in collaboration with has also increased the public’s awareness of quality. Pictured is the T-shirt from the collection. AWI subsidiary The Woolmark Company. Merino wool’s applications “I’ve been testing the kit for a few and benefits in high- months now and am really happy with how performance sportswear, it feels and performs,” said Andy just prior to which should further the tournament. increase demand for the “I work closely with the designers on fibre in future.” every piece and give regular feedback; for me, the technical performance is vital. It’s also Wool returns very important the kit is sustainable and I an ace like the fact it looks and feels a bit different.” This is the first time in Andy wore the Merino wool garments the modern tennis era during his training for Wimbledon and for that such a major player all his matches during the 2021 tournament. as Andy Murray has worn The collection was launched globally to wool at the Wimbledon coincide with the tournament, which started Championships. on 28 June. While wool was once “The launch of this innovative kit common in sporting attire elevates Merino wool to an entirely new in the early days of tennis, level of performance on a global stage and the emergence of synthetic demonstrates that Merino wool garments fibres saw a decline in are both stylish and suited for use in an the use of wool and other elite sporting environment and in the natural fibres. However, the development Billboards around most intense conditions,” said AWI CEO of new manufacturing techniques combined London were Stuart McCullough. with the emergence of superfine Merino seen during the tournament.
OFF 9 FARM players keep cool and comfortable on Andy Murray, wearing a special version of the hoodie with the word Woolmark prominently on court. The fibre’s excellent natural the front, at the Wimbledon pre-tournament elasticity is ideal for stretching and press conference on 26 June. the natural odour resistance abilities ensures players stay feeling fresher for longer. As well as its partnership with Andy Aside from its supreme Murray, Castore also has partnerships with performance attributes, wool is a the McLaren Formula 1 team, the West 100% natural, biodegradable and Indies cricket team, Scottish football club renewable fibre, making it the Rangers, English Premier League football perfect choice for those seeking clubs Newcastle United and Wolverhampton clothing that has a minimal impact Wanderers, the London-based Saracens on the environment. rugby club and the Bahrain Victorious The AMC X Woolmark road cycling team. In Australia, Castore has partnerships with the West Coast Eagles Merino Performance Print and digital advertising that AFL team and the Sydney Roosters and collection featured the collection was placed on Melbourne Storm NRL teams. The AMC X Woolmark Merino Performance billboards located around the Wimbledon collection comprises five wool-blend circular area of London, targeting tennis fans More information knit garments: a polo shirt, shorts, T-shirt, travelling to the tournament. www.woolmark.com/ long sleeve ¼ zip and a hoodie. andymurray During the development of the AMC and Castore www.castore.com/amc collection, Castore and The Woolmark AMC is a premium tennis clothing brand, Company, and Andy Murray himself, tested created by Andy Murray and Castore. the fabrics for high performance attributes, Castore was founded in 2015 and has set such as breathability and moisture out ambitious plans to take on global management, to ensure a comfortable and sportswear giants. The company operates a high performing kit for the athlete. digital, direct-to-consumer business model The fabrics have been tested according that has allowed it to grow extremely rapidly to strict Woolmark quality specifications and since launch and avoid the challenges have been produced through a Woolmark facing many traditional brick and mortar licensed supply chain. The products also brands. It now sells into more than 90 comply with Castore’s high-performance countries globally. product criteria. The collection is available to purchase (shipping worldwide) via the Castore website at www.castore.com/amc. The collection is also available through retail partners including Selfridges, Mr Porter and Flannels. Marketing As well as being showcased to a global audience during Andy’s on-court matches and interviews at Wimbledon, the collection was featured on the home pages of the Castore and Woolmark.com websites, their social media channels, and the social media channels of Andy Murray and other Castore ambassadors such as England cricketer Jos Buttler, British Olympic swimming champion Adam Peaty, and England and Manchester United footballing legend Gary Neville. Andy Murray, wearing the An editorial campaign resulted in wool blend long sleeve coverage in many UK newspapers – from ¼ zip and shorts from the the Daily Telegraph to The Sun – as well as AMC X Woolmark Merino Performance collection, in a consumer magazines such as GQ and textile promotional photo from the industry trade titles. In total, the earned marketing campaign. print, web and social coverage reached a quarter of a billion people. Earned editorial reach 250 million
10 OFF FARM Wool’s eco rating challenge in the EU FAST FACTS • By 2023, products for sale in the European Union (EU) could be required to include a label that provides consumers with the EU’s assessment of a product’s environmental credentials. • While this is a good initiative, the proposed EU methodology is flawed and needs revising so that wool (and other natural fibres) are on a level playing field with synthetic fibres. AWI is working to ensure that European Union (EU) • AWI is providing solutions to the European Commission to help policy makers rate wool’s environmental credentials ensure an accurate rating for appropriately in its Product Environmental Footprinting products containing wool. (PEF) methodology, to prevent the introduction of a poor environmental score for wool on clothing labels across this very important market for Australian wool. T he European Union (EU) is putting policies in place to introduce EU environmental labelling on consumer most influential market-facing reporting system for environmental credentials, with other markets across the world • Fossil fuels (from which synthetic fibres are derived) are considered ‘sustainable’ sources for textile fibres, while natural products, including apparel products, potentially adopting similar initiatives in fibres (such as wool) are rated as less possibly as soon as 2023. This is being done their jurisdictions. sustainable than synthetic fibres. in an effort to guide consumers towards Discussion regarding the proposed • Renewable material sources (such as choosing the most sustainable products. PEF methodologies is ongoing, but it is wool) are not rewarded, while non- Although the wool industry expected that legislation will be put to the renewable sources (synthetic fibres) are supports the intent behind the EU initiative, European Parliament to vote on by the end not penalised. known as the Product Environmental of 2021. Labelling of textiles using the PEF • Biodegradable fibres (such as wool) do Footprinting (PEF) project, the industry methodology is anticipated to roll out in 2023. not receive any positive scoring, and fossil faces a major problem because the initiative fuel-based fibres (synthetic fibres) receive in its current form will, counterintuitively, What are the flaws no penalties for not being biodegradable. score wool and other natural fibre in the current PEF • Microplastic pollution from synthetic products poorly. methodology? materials does not carry any negative “Wool is natural, renewable and Whilst the EU’s PEF project has positive scoring. biodegradable and therefore should be well intent, the methodology remains immature • Natural fibres (such as wool) are placed to take advantage of the increasing and doesn’t yet provide the full picture about negatively scored by including the impacts consumer demand for more earth-friendly a textile product’s sustainability. of forming the fibre on farm (land, water, products. But if the EU continues with the PEF is built on lifecycle assessment GHG emissions etc), while fossil fuel- current PEF methodologies, products made (LCA) methodology which focuses on based fibres (synthetic fibres) receive no from wool and other natural fibres are at measuring the harmful impacts of a product penalties for the formation of crude oil. significant risk of being rated by the EU but makes no attempt to account for Furthermore, there are major poorly compared to synthetics,” warned positive impacts. inconsistencies between the PEF and the AWI CEO Stuart McCullough. “Consequently, the facts that wool EU’s other key environmental initiatives “This would result in a decline in is renewable and can be grown again each such as its Circular Economy Action Plan demand for wool products in the EU year, and that at the end of its life wool is (CEAP). The European Commission rightly because brands and consumers will look fully biodegradable, releasing its nutrients sees product circularity as a solution to for alternative fibre options that have more back to the soil for use again, are not scored wasteful processes like fast fashion, but positive ratings.” positively by the EU,” Stuart said. PEF methodology has not been updated to This is especially important for the “In addition to ignoring the positives reward the inherently circular attributes of Australian wool industry because the of natural fibres, PEF methodology currently natural fibres, including renewability and EU currently consumes about a quarter overlooks some of the key negatives of biodegradability. of all Australian wool. Furthermore, synthetics – for example, it fails to account “PEF labelling arising from the current due to the EU being the driving force of for the negative impacts of microplastics.” process is not reliable and will therefore environmental footprinting, it is anticipated In summary, the EU’s proposed PEF severely inhibit the laudable intent of the that the PEF project will become the labelling currently show: EU’s own CEAP. By following its current
OFF 11 FARM Devold’s reversable base-layers With a focus on sustainability, Woolmark licensee Devold of Norway last month launched a range of Merino wool base- layers that have no inside or outside, just different sides. Turn the garment ‘inside out’ and you get a totally new garment. D evold of Norway was founded in 1853, based on the idea of protecting people against the elements. The company still have all the same benefits of the wool fibre, such as temperature regulation, breathability, elasticity and odour resistance. has worked with wool – a 100% natural, Developed for cold and harsh weather, renewable and biodegradable fibre – and ideal for skiing, the super-soft fabric throughout its 168-year history and contains microscopic air pockets that provide today produces apparel for sports and optimal insulation. outdoor enthusiasts. Named after Kvitegga, a mountain The company has designed a new peak in the Sunnmøre Alps near where the range of Merino wool base-layers, with Devold head office is still located, the base- each garment being able to be used on layer range is made from 18.7-micron Merino both of its sides, which reduces the need wool. The range is available in men and for extra garments. The two-in-one women versions and comprises tops, long function also provides the option to johns and headwear. pack smart, reduce weight and limit the Kvitegga was a finalist in the path, the EU risks not achieving its number of washes. prestigious Scandinavian Outdoor Award objective of a climate neutral, circular EU for the Autumn/Winter 2021/22 season. economy by 2050,” Stuart said. The base-layers are knitted in three The range is available now in stores and “Although current PEF methodologies col/thread jacquard patterns so that the via the Devold online shop at devold.com. are a threat to wool, if the methodologies two sides of the fabric look completely are correctly rectified, they could provide different – there are several different significant opportunities for wool.” patterns in the range – but the garments What is AWI doing to improve wool’s PEF rating? AWI has been actively participating in the PEF process, advocating for robust science to underpin the PEF’s rating methods. “It is important to secure a level- playing field for wool by ensuring PEF textile rules and methodologies encompass all the environmental credentials of natural fibres and allow consumers to make a fair and informed choice,” Stuart said. “On behalf of Australian woolgrowers, AWI is working with the International Wool Textile Organisation (IWTO) to raise awareness of concerns with the PEF methodology and influence EU policy and decision makers to defer the use of the PEF methodology on apparel labelling The reversable base-layers in Devold’s new until its limitations have been addressed.” Kvitegga range for men and women enable you to have to two different designs to wear To amplify its campaigning, a in the one Merino wool garment. coalition of like-minded partners from global natural fibre organisations, NGOs and others have joined forces to influence EU policy makers about the need to improve PEF methodology and to influence policy and legislative development. Stuart said AWI is engaging with the European Commission at the highest levels and is providing the scientific evidence to address the PEF methodological limitations. “Our initial meetings with European Commission officials have been constructive, and a solutions-focused review of the PEF has been provided by AWI as follow up,” Stuart added.
12 OFF FARM “Buy better, buy wool” This year’s Wool Week in Australia campaign from AWI helped educate consumers that “not all clothes are created equal”, urging them to buy better by choosing clothes made from wool, the original eco fibre. P romoting the natural, renewable and biodegradable properties of wool is an important element in most of AWI’s Campaign drives wool purchases Many other commercially available wool garments and products located on the Woolmark.com shop page were also marketing of Australian wool. However, Key messages and imagery from the featured on the special campaign hub page, this year’s Wool Week campaign in campaign were located on a campaign driving traffic to even more online stores Australia really pushed that message home, hub page on the Woolmark.com website. containing wool products that consumers comparing these positive characteristics In addition to raising awareness of wool’s could purchase. with the negative, polluting attributes of positive eco-credentials, an important An email and social media campaign synthetic fibres. element of the hub page was to drive from The Woolmark Company directed Wool Week is an annual initiative purchases of wool products at retail. consumers to the hub page. The Woolmark of AWI and its subsidiary The Woolmark Specially photographed wool Company has more than 756,000 followers Company. It arose from the global Campaign garments from brand partners were featured globally on Facebook and 86,000 followers for Wool that aims to educate consumers on the hub page with links pointing to the globally on Instagram. Six high profile about the natural benefits of wool and brands’ online stores at which consumers ‘influencers’, with a total following of more increase sales of wool product. could purchase the products. The than 300,000 on Instagram, were engaged to “The theme of the campaign this year brands featured included: Country Road, amplify the campaign by posting items on their was that clothes made from wool are better Sportscraft, R.M. Williams, Oroton, Assembly social media channels about the benefits of for the environment than clothes made from Label, Arnsdorf, Jacinta James, McIntyre wool and drive consumers to the hub page. synthetic fibres, which are derived from Merino, Wah-Wah, ioMerino, Nagnata, The campaign achieved 5.7 million fossil fuels and crude oil,” said AWI CEO Humphrey Law, Lindner Quality Socks, impressions, which was above target. Stuart McCullough. Helen Kaminski and Seljak. A poster campaign was also run in Using simple Melbourne, Canberra and but clever imagery of Newcastle which featured mocked-up clothing tags the educational wool care on wool garments, the labels and a QR code to Wool Week ‘Ready to Care’ the Woolmark.com hub. campaign highlighted The poster campaign the negative impacts had a reach of 3.6 million on the environment people. that clothes made from synthetic fibres have, in More information comparison to clothes www.woolmark.com/ made from wool. Facts buybetter used on the wool clothing tag imagery included: • “I won’t harm our ocean life because I’m made of Merino wool” • “I’ll last a lifetime because I’m made with Merino wool” • “You’d be wearing plastic if I was polyester” The fact that wool is a natural fibre produced responsibly by Australian woolgrowers was another element of the campaign, with video clips of Australian Clever campaign imagery woolgrowers showcasing the environmental of mocked-up clothing credentials of their on-farm practices. tags on wool garments emphasised the benefits With most farms in Australia family for the environment of wool owned and operated, it was emphasised that compared to synthetics. Australian woolgrowers are always thinking about their family’s next generation and how to preserve their property’s natural resources in the long-term. The Woolmark Company (left) and influencers (right) posted images on social media of wool apparel alongside comments advocating the natural benefits and eco-credentials of wool.
OFF 13 FARM Natural dyes for Natural dyes… a natural fibre • are created from renewable and natural sources. • are biodegradable in land and marine environments. As fashion and textile brands focus more and more on the eco-credentials of their products, there has been renewed • provide a superior natural interest in natural dyes, which is good news for wool as aesthetic and look. the fibre works well with natural dyes. E vidence of textile dyeing dates back thousands of years to ancient Egypt and beyond. Virtually all dyes were derived from natural materials until the mid-nineteenth century when the large-scale use of natural dyes declined due to the invention and widespread availability of synthetic dyes. However, the demand for natural dyes in the fashion and textile industries is experiencing a resurgence. Natural dyes are extracted from natural materials such as plants, minerals and even shells and insects. Plant-based natural dyes include woad, indigo, saffron and madder. Invertebrate natural dyes include Tyrian purple, cochineal Woolmark licensee Tintoria di 2020 International Woolmark Prize and crimson kermes. Other naturally Quarenga, located at Biella in Italy, has winner Richard Malone, in addition to occurring dyestuff alternatives include created a natural dyeing process called several other recent finalists including bacteria derived dyestuff and bi-product NATURALE® that uses more than 200 2021 winner Matty Bovan, used natural dyes (such as dyes from food waste). natural ingredients – such as flowers, dyes in their wool collections. In Natural fibres such as wool absorb leaves, berries and roots – to create Richard Malone’s winning collection, natural dyes better than synthetic textile a wide range of colours and shades extracts have been taken from the fibres. The dyes have been proven to work suitable for dyeing wool and other vembadam plant to produce a lilac well with wool textiles to produce a superior natural fibres. The wool products colour, sky blue is achieved from the natural aesthetic quality and look. manufactured using the dyeing clitoria plant, marigold and myrobalan Some dye manufacturers are successfully process have been rigorously tested was used to complement the colour producing natural dyes in a commercially for quality and approved under the from the karungali plant and the usable form at an industrial scale. Woolmark Certification Program. In wedlia plant produced luscious greens Fabric and yarn dyed with natural addition to having its own collection of for the collection. dyes are contained in the latest edition of natural dyed yarns, the company can The Wool Lab Digital sourcing guide at dye its customers’ own fibre, top and www.woolmark.com/thewoollab – view the yarn using the NATURALE® process. ‘Living’ theme. www.tintoriadiquaregna.it More information www.woolmark.com/naturaldyes Or no dye at all! Melbourne-based knitwear brand McIntyre recently launched a new Items in the latest collection of collection, known as RAW, made from Australian knitwear brand Wolfgang untreated wool of black and brown Scout are available undyed in the sheep from several Australian farms. wool’s natural colour. Wolfgang Scout The wool was then blended together uses 100% Australian superfine to achieve an ‘Expresso’ coloured Merino wool yarn sourced from yarn, which is Woolmark-certified. the Finnigan familys’ Kia Ora Merino No chemicals are used in the whole property at Winslow in Victoria. The process, leaving the jumper with its rest of the brand’s knitwear range natural lanoline smell and hand feel. is responsibly dyed using non- hazardous, non-chrome, low impact www.mcintyremerino.com/collections/ dyes with minimal water wastage. raw-collection www.wolfgangscout.com
14 OFF FARM The Hedrena brand, which specialises in 100% Australian Merino wool, is now owned by iconic Australian retailer Fella Hamilton and the Hedrena garments are available to purchase at all Fella Hamilton stores across Australia and online. Pictured left, the man is wearing a short sleeve crew neck tee, while the woman is wearing a long sleeve zip polo and interlock roam relaxed fit pant – all made from 100% Australian Merino wool. Australian wool and Australian made Taking ownership of Hedrena last year, and proud of its Australian-made heritage, Fella Hamilton recently brought the production of its Hedrena garments back to Australia. “Not only is the fabric produced using wool from Australian Merino sheep, but all the garments are designed by us in Melbourne and are locally manufactured exclusively for us right here in Australia,” said Managing Director and son of Fella Hamilton, David Hamilton. “We are very proud to be supporting Hedrena’s local farmers using 100% Australian Merino wool. “The benefits of wool for comfort and Aussie wool style through both warm and cool months have meant we can sell the products all year round. The yarn is dyed in seasonal colours to fit back in with the rest of our range. apparel at “We sell a wide variety of tops from singlets and tees to cardigans and skivvies. Hedrena has even allowed us to venture into Fella Hamilton Merino wool pants, sleepwear, intimates and menswear.” Connecting consumers with woolgrowers Hedrena products continue to use high- quality Australian Merino wool that its customers know and love. The wool is now sourced from wool-growing clients of AWN through AWN’s DNA (Direct Network Advantage) Provenance program. Each Hedrena garment carries a QR code- enabled DNA swing ticket. When scanned, Made using 100% Australian Merino wool, the the QR code allows Hedrena customers to view a short video from one of the regions Woolmark-certified garments in Fella Hamilton’s from where wool for Hedrena was sourced, Hedrena collection showcase quality, style and a showcasing a unique Australian wool distinctive Australian wool provenance story. provenance story. “The DNA program offered by AWN F ounded in 1992 by woolgrowers Hedley and Irena Earl on their superfine wool- growing property near Geelong, Hedrena’s Merino wool apparel. Hedrena products are Woolmark-licensed and stocked in Fella Hamilton’s 31 stores Australia wide, as well as has given us that extra ability to share important information with our customers. Having a great Australian story that they roots are strongly embedded in the world of through its mail order and online store. can follow is emotive and gives us pride in Merino wool production. Hedrena’s founders Itself celebrating 52 years in Australian our offer,” David said. pioneered the next to skin base-layer market fashion, the Melbourne-based and family- “In a world of synthetic fashion, for Merino wool making beautiful soft, pure run Fella Hamilton business, named after the we provide our customers with a natural, wool garments that are made to last. brand’s founder, has grown from a wholesale sustainable clothing choice.” Nearly 30 years later, the Hedrena business, supplying garments to the leading brand is owned by iconic Australian department stores of the day, to become one More information retailer Fella Hamilton and still provides of Australia’s most iconic and successful www.fellahamilton.com.au/hedrena women with high quality 100% Australian fashion brands. www.awn.net/dna
OFF 15 FARM Custom tailoring certified Australian Merino wool suiting fabrics to choose from, ranging from Super made easy 110s to Super 180s.” Shop online or at a showroom with InStitchu Customers can order garments online from the comfort of their own home, with two straight forward options. Firstly, they can select a product and then customise it (with www.InStitchu.com is an Australian tailoring brand that offers the ability to choose all the details including its customers customisable, made-to-measure apparel, the type of lapels, buttons, pockets, closure, monogramming and more); or secondly, if including men’s and women’s suits and casualwear crafted the customer knows exactly what they want from Woolmark-certified Australian Merino wool. then they can design a garment from scratch using their online design tool. C o-founded by James Wakefield and Robin McGowan in 2012, InStitchu (www.InStitchu.com) is an innovative While InStitchu was initially launched as a men’s custom, made-to-measure suiting Alternatively, customers can visit one of InStitchu’s 13 showrooms across Australia brand, it last year expanded its range into (there is also one in New York), where the suiting brand that bridges the gap between women’s custom, made-to-measure suiting customer is measured by an expert stylist, old world tailoring traditions and the and has recently launched a customisable, can peruse hundreds of premium fabrics and modern digital retail landscape, offering casual offering for men. customisation options as they design their a luxury experience and products at an garment(s) down to the detail – all with a affordable price (men’s and women’s custom, Premium Merino whisky or champagne in hand. tailored suits from $599). wool fabrics The order is then sent to InStitchu’s The brand provides customers with Using only premium, natural fibres, all the tailoring partner in China where the fabric the ability to design and customise their own wool fabrics used by InStitchu are 100% is laser cut to the customer’s specific design garments from anywhere in the world in Australian Merino wool, certified by The and measurements and constructed by one minutes using their simple online design tool Woolmark Company. of its expert tailors. on the InStitchu website, or alternatively in “Nothing comes close to wool as a “Everything we make is crafted to person at one of their 13 luxury showrooms premium suiting fabric, particularly if it’s the customer’s precise measurements and across Australia. 100% Australian Merino wool,” said InStitchu design,” said InStitchu Co-Founder Robin Every InStitchu garment is made Co-Founder James Wakefield. McGowan. “With a combination of the best from scratch by their expert tailors to the “All of InStitchu’s suit fabrics are fabrics in the world, leading technology, customer’s exact measurements and design, Woolmark certified, meaning that they have and premium customer service, we provide and is delivered to been certified through rigorous Woolmark our customers with great value and high- the customer’s door testing to ensure the highest quality. quality garments such as 100% Australian in just 3-4 weeks. InStitchu has hundreds of Woolmark- Merino wool suits, jackets, trousers coats and casualwear.” Every InStitchu order (whether placed The InStitchu online design tool enables customers to design a garment from scratch online or choose a product online or in a showroom) comes with the and customise it online to their own specifications. brand’s Perfect Fit Guarantee – whereby InStitchu will cover customer alterations or remake their garments if they don’t fit perfectly, free of charge. The recent addition of a more casual offering The InStitchu brand has recently introduced a selection of more casual, customisable garments for men. “This is a reflection of the casualisation of the workforce and new demand for customisable, made to measure casualwear,” Robin said. “Our Autumn/Winter 2021 collection includes wool sweaters, customisable wool overcoats, jackets and vests and our Australian Merino wool customisable suits, jackets and trousers – perfect for work (at home or in the office) and play. “The collection, which is titled ‘Lay Of The Land’ is rich in Merino wool, and a celebration of our Australian landscape, our This InStitchu turtleneck sweater worn under a farmers, and the different lives we all lead. It custom, made-to-measure Merino InStitchu wool suit provides a mix of classic tailoring and modern is about rugged practicality at its core.” fashion in a very sophisticated way. More information: www.InStitchu.com
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