Australian wool in the America's Cup - ISSUE 86 MARCH 2021
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ISSUE 86 MARCH 2021
PROFIT FROM WOOL INNOVATION
www.wool.com
Australian wool in
the America’s Cup
08 32 56
WHY SUSTAINABILITY FLYSTRIKE VACCINE HANDS-ON
MATTERS PROGRESS RURAL TRAINING
19 A
CTIVEWEAR REACHES 28 LIFETIME EWE
NEW HEIGHTS MANAGEMENT
EDITOR
Richard Smith
E richard.smith@wool.com
Australian Wool Innovation Limited
A L6, 68 Harrington St, The Rocks,
OFF-FARM ON-FARM
Sydney NSW 2000
GPO Box 4177, Sydney NSW 2001 4 Wool 2030: New long-term strategy 28 Lifetime Ewe Management
P 02 8295 3100 6 Review of Performance 30 Croc trough pumping system
E info@wool.com W wool.com
AWI Helpline 1800 070 099 6 Wool face masks 32 Flystrike vaccine update
SUBSCRIPTION 7 Project results in numbers 34 Anaesthetic and analgesic treatments
Beyond the Bale is available free.
To subscribe contact AWI 8 Fashion’s sustainability focus 36 It’s Fly Time! resources
P 02 8295 3100 E info@wool.com
9 Fashion and regenerative agriculture 38 ParaBoss: Set your sights on parasites
Beyond the Bale is published by Australian 11 Technology to trace Aussie wool 40 MLP: Ram mating success insights
Wool Innovation Ltd (AWI), a company
funded by Australian woolgrowers and the 12 Wool set to gain from circularity 42 Comparing sheep performance
Australian Government. AWI’s goal is to help
increase the demand for wool by actively 14 Traceable wool from farm to fashion 45 AWI breeding publications
selling Australian wool and its attributes 46 10 years of FeralScan
through investments in marketing, innovation 16 America’s Cup series’ wool showcase
and R&D – from farm to fashion and interiors. 18 Lana Vello athleisurewear 47 Hoggone feral pig bait
COPYRIGHT 19 New performance wear from ashmei 48 SA Dog Fence rebuild
Material in Beyond the Bale is copyright. 49 Trap kits… still trapping
20 Hats off to Aussie wool!
Reproduction of the material is encouraged.
However prior permission must be obtained 22 Digital printing on wool 50 Wild dog control benefits wildlife
from the Editor.
23 The Wool Lab Digital 51 Rebuilding on Kangaroo Island
DISCLAIMER 52 Mobile shearing
To the extent permitted by law, Australian 24 Wool4School tops 100,000 students
Wool Innovation Ltd excludes all liability 54 Shearer and wool handler training
for loss or damage arising from the use of,
25 Wool denim designs for on the go
or reliance on, the information contained in 26 I made a coat using my own wool! 55 Shear brilliance from Kevin Gellatly
this publication.
The Woolmark symbol is a certification mark 55 Harvesting training videos
registered in many countries.
© 2021 Australian Wool Innovation Ltd. All
56 Hay Inc hands-on rural training
rights reserved. 58 Market intelligence report
ADVERTISING SALES 60 EMI starts to recover
Steve Luxford, Pulse Hub Pty Ltd
P 0429 699 553 AWI INVESTMENT STRATEGIES 61 Promote your wool on WoolQ
E steve.luxford@pulsehub.com.au Sheep Production,
Advertising is subject to terms and conditions
Marketing Consultation 62 Readers’ photos
Science & Technology
published on the ratecard, which is available
from Pulse Hub. Processing Innovation
Traceability
& Education Extension
ISSN
1447-9680
CONNECTING WITH AWI AWI E-NEWSLETTERS:
FRONT COVER
In a global showcase of Australian Merino wool, To subscribe to the free monthly AWI e-newsletter
wool.com
the America’s Cup team Luna Rossa Prada for woolgrowers, and the weekly wool market review
Pirelli has benefited from the performance e-newsletter, visit www.wool.com/subscribe
attributes of the fibre in its sailing uniform, feedback@wool.com
thanks to a partnership with AWI’s subsidiary
The Woolmark Company – see page 16. THE WOOLMARK COMPANY
wool.com/podcast
This magazine is printed on PEFC woolmark.com
(Programme for the Endorsement of twitter.com/woolinnovation
Forest Certification) paper stock.
twitter.com/woolmark
facebook.com/AustralianWoolInnovation
facebook.com/thewoolmarkcompany
Hear Beyond the Bale youtube.com/AWIWoolProduction
editor Richard Smith talk youtube.com/thewoolmarkcompany
about the evolution of Instagram.com/AustralianWool
this flagship magazine Instagram.com/thewoolmarkcompany
in Episode 155 of AWI’s The Yarn BtB
View Beyond the Bale online at
podcast at www.wool.com/podcast http://beyondthebale.wool.com
AWI STATE-BASED GROWER NETWORKS
AWI-supported networks are present in each state.
• Sheep Connect NSW • BESTWOOL/BESTLAMB (VIC)
• Sheep Connect SA • The Sheep’s Back (WA)
• Sheep Connect Tasmania • Leading Sheep (Qld)
Find your grower network at www.wool.com/networks or call the AWI Helpline on 1800 070 099.
GD4114
UPFRONT 3
GETTING ON WITH
BUSINESS Stuart McCullough
Chief Executive Officer
Australian Wool Innovation
Throughout the global COVID-19 pandemic, AWI has continued to work
relentlessly for woolgrowers to ensure the sustainability of our industry
and profitability for your enterprises.
Retail still weak, but Merino wool’s suitability for trans-seasonal and can vote for one or more levy rates in
womenswear in China. order of preference. An additional question
vaccines and China Although the relatively buoyant will be added to WoolPoll 2021; it will ask
provide optimism consumption in the Chinese market is not growers if they want a five-year WoolPoll
Since my previous report in Beyond the Bale enough to make up for the current poor cycle instead of the current three-year cycle.
three months ago, the COVID-19 pandemic performance of western consumer markets, Eligible levy payers will receive their voting
has continued to severely impact most the bounce back in China does provide papers in September. Further information
countries across the world, including large optimism and confidence for coming retail about WoolPoll 2021 will be in the June and
wool-consuming countries in the northern seasons in other global markets, once the September editions of Beyond the Bale.
hemisphere such as those in Europe and the rollout of vaccines has reduced COVID-19
USA. The lockdowns and social distancing infection levels and they are under control. A better 2021
measures have continued to result in Reflecting the situation in China, we Without doubt, the economic fallout from
lower-than-normal consumption of apparel anticipate an upsurge in demand in global the global pandemic during the past 12
products (with China a notable exception). markets once daily life returns to some form months has been very tough for many
Some apparel segments have been of normality and consumers begin to indulge industries including the wool industry. While
more resilient than others. While the suiting in social gatherings once again. I have always been absolutely sure about
and formal attire sectors have continued In the trade space, given that it usually the resilience of our industry, I am more
to be badly hit in many countries, the takes more than 12 months for brands to confident now than I was six months ago
knitwear, coats and outdoor/sports sectors develop and roll out their apparel collections, that there is light at the end of the tunnel
have been relatively robust. Higher levels of COVID-19 has already somewhat disrupted and a recovery is under way. Despite the
online purchasing continue to partly offset the 2021/22 northern hemisphere autumn/ tough times, the EMI has begun to recover,
reductions in consumption at brick and winter retail season, aside from in China. increasing by more than 53% from a low
mortar stores. However, we are hopeful that the level of of 858ac at the beginning of September
AWI’s marketing teams across the wool buying by processors will be back to to 1318ac in mid-February. It is now at its
world have continued to focus on (1) retailers normal during the second half of this year, highest level since March last year.
and brands that have proven and robust for autumn/winter 2022/23 collections across I strongly believe that the premium
digital retail platforms, (2) large volume, high the entire northern hemisphere. and natural qualities of our fibre and the
consumption sectors, and (3) sectors that are It is important to note that while much relationships we have built along the supply
seeing a rise in demand, such as active wear. attention at the moment is understandably chain during the past decade ensure a
In contrast to most nations, China’s on our retail markets, our on-farm R&D positive outlook for Australian wool, not
domestic consumption of wool apparel and extension projects are largely run in only as the industry recovers from the
products at retail has not only recovered but Australia and have escaped the worst of the economic effects of COVID-19, but in the
has increased compared to previous years. fallout from the pandemic. They continue longer term.
While this is mainly due to the clear recovery to operate largely as normal, although we The 10-year strategy for Australian
of the Chinese economy, it is also due to closely monitor their progress and budgets. woolgrowers, Wool 2030, which was
two other reasons: firstly, the widespread developed following extensive consultation
renewal of uniforms for the Chinese public WoolPoll 2021 (see pages 4-5), has been well received
service, and secondly, international travel As we move into 2021, we enter a WoolPoll amongst woolgrowers and along the supply
restrictions causing wealthy Chinese year, a cornerstone of Australia’s wool chain. The strategy’s underlying principle is
tourists to shift their consumption away industry. It is that time when wool levy sustainability: in the careful management
from markets like Paris and London to the payers will be asked what percentage of of woolgrowers’ animals and the land they
domestic market. their wool income they would like to invest occupy, and the wellbeing of woolgrowers
Building on the success of AWI’s recent in research, development and marketing for and their customers – all of which are
online marketing campaign during China’s their industry. Voting is scheduled to open on essential for sustained profitability.
autumn (see page 7), our marketing team has Monday 13 September and close on Friday 9 I hope you have all been safe and
been working on a spring campaign, being November. Eligible woolgrowers will be given well during the start of 2021 and remain so
rolled out this month, to drive awareness for up to five options of levy rate to support throughout the year.
4 UPFRONT
Wool 2030:
a long-term
strategy for
Australian
woolgrowers
A 10-year strategy for Australian woolgrowers,
Wool 2030, has been developed following extensive
consultation. The strategy’s underlying principle
is sustainability: in the careful management of
woolgrowers’ animals and the land they occupy, and
The Wool 2030 strategic plan, which was released in the wellbeing of woolgrowers and their customers, all
December, is available at www.wool.com/2030.
of which are essential for sustained profitability.
T he independent chairman of AWI’s
Woolgrower Industry Consultation Panel
(WICP), Lyndsey Douglas, says a deep desire
The plan has a focus on meeting
the needs of all woolgrowers in Australia’s
diverse wool industry.
The strategy has been well received by
industry along the wool supply chain. In the
Wool 2030 document’s forward, Chairman
to meet the expectations of consumers of Ermenegildo Zegna Group, Paolo Zegna,
worldwide is reflected in the 10-year strategy Addressing opportunities says it’s crucially important to consolidate
document’s tagline – ‘the world’s premium and risks the Australian wool industry’s leading
sustainable fibre’ – which was launched by The Wool 2030 strategic plan describes how position in terms of quality and quantity of
the industry in December. the Australian wool industry faces a decade wool produced.
“The plan you see today addresses of unparalleled opportunity: “Wool has many “The whole wool supply chain has
those issues the industry considers key outstanding performance attributes as a to move in the same direction. All growers
to a prosperous future: driving demand, textile fibre. Increasingly, consumers also must follow the same path together with
demographics, perception, profitability and seek products with strong sustainability their clients downstream, to all aim in
people. It asks today’s growers to consider credentials. Wool is the first choice for reconfirming Australian wool as the best in
the story of wool internationally in 2030 a sustainable fibre because it is natural, the world.”
and what the daily life of a woolgrower in renewable, recyclable and biodegradable.”
Australia might be in ten years’ time. What Wool 2030 explains that technology
Plan development
is also important is to identify efficiencies, also offers great opportunities for wool and consultation
promote best practice, to always keep in mind in the modern world. “More than ever The development of a 10-year strategy for
our buyers and customers,” Lyndsey said. before, woolgrowers can converse with Australian woolgrowers was one of the
their customers, both to understand what recommendations of the 2018 review of
“Woolgrowers are at the heart of different markets require, and to convey performance of AWI by Ernst and Young.
the story of Australian wool production. The resulting new strategic plan, Wool
this 10-year strategic plan.”
A wide range of product specifications, 2030, was facilitated by AWI and overseen
Lyndsey Douglas, WICP Chair including raising claims, can be transmitted by AWI’s Woolgrower Consultation Group
with the physical product and price signals (WCG), which comprises 29 production-
“The Merino breed continues to be conveyed to farm level. Technology also based woolgrower group representatives
a central focus, a point-of-difference in a promises to solve some of the challenges of from across Australia, ‘next generation’
competitive global landscape. The plan has wool production such as efficient harvesting representatives invited by each WCG
an ambitious national flock growth target, and management of pests and disease. member, as well as Lyndsey Douglas and
and retention of the Merino ewe base at or Advances in genetics offer even further a representative of the Department of
above its current proportion is crucial to the improvement in Australian sheep and the Agriculture, Water and the Environment.
industry’s strength in 2030. wool they produce.” There was wide consultation during
“We know that positioning wool as However, Wool 2030 says there are also the development of the plan. Initially, a
a rewarding, profitable land-use choice to significant strategic risks to the industry: series of five discussion papers on key
the next generation landholder is core to “In the late 20th Century, key wool industry topics were prepared to inform debate
meeting our growth targets.” risks were largely concerned with technical by the WCG and the next generation
The overall target of the strategic plan and commercial attributes of the fibre – representatives. Following WCG webinars,
is for the Australian wool industry, by 2030, price, production, specifications, processing small-group consultations were undertaken
to have grown in value by 2.5% annually and product performance. Today, those with brokers, buyers, processors, state
from 2019/20. This growth will come from same industry risks remain but have been farming organisations, AWEX and AWTA.
an increase in value per head of sheep of added to by what are best described as ‘social An industry online survey was also run
15% and an increase in flock size from 67 to licence’ risks – animal welfare, environmental for five weeks which attracted more than
75 million, with an increased proportion of sustainability (regeneration), emissions 850 responses.
Merinos in the ewe flock. profile and so on.”
UPFRONT 5
Vision and targets of the Wool 2030 strategy
Wool
2030
Pillar 1 Pillar 2 Pillar 3 Pillar 4 Pillar 5
CARING FOR OUR MARKETING COMMUNICATING TRANSFORMING FOSTERING A
ANIMALS AND THE THE WORLD’S MOST WITH OUR OUR PRODUCTION PROSPEROUS WOOL-
ENVIRONMENT DESIRABLE FIBRE CUSTOMERS SYSTEMS THROUGH GROWING COMMUNITY
INNOVATION
Vision: In 2030, wool Vision: In 2030, the Vision: In 2030, growers, Vision: In 2030, wool Vision: In 2030, the wool-
is one of Australia’s industry has renewed consumers and production systems growing community in
most trusted industries, its relationship with industry participants employ a wide Australia is cohesive,
renowned for its consumers following in-between are range of integrated collaborative and
stewardship of the the COVID-19 pandemic. seamlessly exchanging technologies that committed, speaking
people, animals and Consumers understand data on product make wool-growing with one voice.
environment in its that Australian wool attributes (including less labour-intensive, Woolgrowers are
care. As a textile delivers comfort, boosts provenance), physical more efficient and skilled professionals
fibre, Australian health and positively movements and price more appealing to a who understand their
wool is recognised benefits animals and signals, enabling younger generation. markets and manage
internationally for its the environment. growers to meet market Woolgrowers are complex production
sustainability standards, requirements and highly skilled systems. Young people
which are underpinned buyers to readily obtain managers of sheep, are enthusiastic new
by rigorous certification. the wools they seek. pastures and data. entrants.
Targets: Targets: Targets: Targets: Targets:
• Growers have the • New wool products • Australian • Lamb weaning • Staff and contractors
confidence and tools are developed woolgrowers rates increase by 5 feel valued by the
to manage flystrike to meet evolving understand the percentage points industry
without mulesing consumer needs market(s) they serve • Genetic gain is 2% • The Australian wool
• Australian wool • Australian wool • 95% of Australian per annum industry is seen to be
production is moving attracts a price wool is sold with a • Cost of harvesting united and cohesive
towards carbon premium over completed National reduces by 3% per • Wool-growing
neutrality equivalent wools Wool Declaration annum in real terms. is perceived as
• More than 50% of from other countries. or equivalent by a satisfying and
wool is sold under a June 2022. profitable pursuit.
quality certification
scheme
• Woolgrowers are
earning income from
ecosystem services,
including for carbon
mitigation.
Putting the plan the implementation for Wool 2030 extends More information:
beyond AWI to many other organisations Download the 36-page Wool 2030 strategic
into action and individuals across the Australian plan at www.wool.com/2030
The plan has deliberately been designed as a wool industry.
high-level, aspirational statement of intent Oversight of the plan will be Hear Chair of the Wool
and strategy for Australian woolgrowers. provided by a Wool 2030 Steering Group Industry Consultation Panel,
AWI will assist in the coordination comprising an independent chair and Lyndsay Douglas, talk
and implementation of the plan; the Wool industry representatives. The Steering through the 10-year plan in
2030 plan will be a key reference point in Group will publish a brief, biennial summary Episode 157 of AWI’s The Yarn podcast,
the development of AWI’s own three-year of progress against targets, starting in available at www.wool.com/podcast.
strategic plans. However, responsibility for December 2022.
6 UPFRONT
Review of Performance recommendations
AWI’s progress of implementation
As part of AWI’s three-year business cycle, an independent THEME IMPLEMENTATION PROGRESS
review of performance (ROP) of AWI is routinely undertaken
100%*
to assess the company’s performance. The latest ROP was CONSTITUTION
undertaken by Ernst & Young (EY) for the period 2015-2018. 24 out of 24 recommendations complete.
EY’s report, which was published in July 2018, included
82 recommendations.
99.57%*
GOVERNANCE
In September 2018, AWI launched its ROP Implementation 22 out of 23 recommendations complete.
Portal at rop.wool.com to provide detailed and up to date
100%*
information to woolgrowers about the progress made by AWI MONITORING EVALUATION
in implementing the 82 recommendations. Displayed right is & REPORTING
a summary of the overall progress, and the progress across 16 out of 16 recommendations complete.
each of the seven themes of the recommendations.
100%*
COLLABORATION
Further information is available at rop.wool.com 3 out of 3 recommendations complete.
99.45% 98.57%*
PEOPLE & CULTURE
6 out of 7 recommendations complete.
OVERALL
95%*
AWI POSITION CONSULTATION
IMPLEMENTATION
Agree/ Industry 4 out of 5 recommendations complete.
PROGRESS agree (81)
For Shareholder
100%*
Consideration (1) ROP RECOMMENDATIONS
& IMPLEMENTATION
4 out of 4 recommendations complete.
* Percentage figure is calculated on the cumulative completion rate within each theme.
Remaining recommendations at various completion stages.
To view individual recommendation progress rates, visit rop.wool.com
Wool face masks
With hundreds of millions of people across the world now wearing face masks every day, wool face
masks offer a protective covering and a natural alternative to single use synthetic face masks.
Benefits of disposable synthetic masks, wool is a 100% Both are comfortable to wear thanks
biodegradable fibre and will decompose to the absence of seams and breathable
wool face masks when they are eventually disposed of. materials that decrease the accumulation
Many brands across the world, of humidity inside. The masks are made
• Soft on skin – superfine Merino
including Australia, have produced face in Italy and are being promoted for
wool has superior softness and
masks that incorporate some or 100% wool. purchase across Europe at www.iffm.it/en/
proven skin benefits when worn
The Woolmark website features 25 different home-page-suedwollegroup.
next-to-skin.
wool face masks. Head to www.woolmark.
com/facemasks to view the facemasks and More information:
• Breathable and moisture regulating
how to purchase them. www.woolmark.com/facemasks
– wool acts like a second skin,
One of AWI’s supply chain
keeping your skin comfortable
partners in Europe, Südwolle Group, has
These wool blend masks from AWI’s supply
recently launched two new face mask chain partner, Südwolle Group, help wearers
• Reusable – wool face masks can
designs in a multi-fibre blend look cool as well as feel cool.
be washed and re-used.
containing Merino wool. They are
reusable, washable and made for
T he continuing global coronavirus
pandemic means that wearing face
masks continues to be prudent, if not
daily use.
The seamless knit
Merino Mask is soft and
compulsory, for a majority of people across breathable with elastic
the world including Australia. laces and a metal nose
Face masks made with Merino wool piece whilst the Merino
provide the wearer with a reusable mask Filter Mask offers more
that is soft and comfortable, breathable, than 95% Bacterial
washable and a natural alternative to Filtration Efficiency
synthetic face masks. They can be worn thanks to the replaceable
again and again, provided they are washed filter inside with the
correctly after each use. And unlike, combined layering system.
OFF 7
FARM
Project updates:
Results in numbers
China TMALL consumer campaign
Capitalising on the immense strength of online
retailing in China, AWI collaborated with China’s
581 million
social media impressions
most influential business-to-consumer e-commerce
platform, TMALL, to launch a perfectly timed
promotion of Australian Merino wool.
300 million
page views on TMALL’s online Wool Pavilion
The campaign, from 21 September through to 4
November, aimed to educate digitally savvy Chinese
millennials about the superiority of Merino wool,
while driving purchase intent through digital and
16 million
campaign video views
social platforms for the Merino wool products of 100
premium Chinese and international brands.
353,000
Woolmark-certified garments
More information:
Page 5 of the December edition of Beyond the Bale
60%
of audience now more likely to buy Merino
Vivobarefoot natural footwear range
With support from AWI, leading global barefoot
footwear company Vivobarefoot developed a new
420,000+
emails sent by Vivibarefoot that
natural footwear range that incorporates Merino featured Merino products
wool. The product development and collaboration
between Vivobarefoot and AWI is part of the in-kind
service that AWI offers Woolmark licensees and
32 million
social media impressions
involved no financial outlay by AWI.
Vivobarefoot launched in September its new
‘natural’ range of footwear that incorporates Merino
wool as its key fibre, A digital marketing campaign
56%
of website wool landing page
ran for three weeks from 23 September. Moving visitors were new users
forward, wool will be adopted as a core material
Units of Merino shoes at retail
across all Vivobarefoot’s products and AWI is working
in next collection to
with the brand on its next project.
More information:
TRIPLE
www.vivobarefoot.com/woolmark
Page 12 of the December edition of Beyond the Bale
Move in Merino challenge on
From 2 to 29 November, AWI ran a community
engagement initiative in conjunction with Strava,
225,000+
total participants
the exercise-focused social networking platform
especially popular with runners and cyclists. The
‘Move in Merino Challenge’ on Strava encouraged
5 million
total active hours
consumers to exercise and commute wearing Merino
wool, driving sales of brand partners’ products and
creating a community of active-minded Merino wool
ambassadors.
42 million
total miles covered
Participants were challenged to undertaken
20 hours of activity during the month, which once
completed enabled them to unlock access to exclusive
5,500+
new Woolmark Strava club members
discount codes from some of AWI’s brand partners
including ashmei, Vivobarefoot, Tracksmith and Iffley
Road, thereby encouraging consumers to purchase
and exercise in Merino wool products.
18 1
/2 million
total website impressions
More information:
www.strava.com/challenges/Move-in-Merino
Page 9 of the December edition of Beyond the Bale
8 OFF
FARM
Fashion’s sustainability
focus – the new normal
Key points
• In response to significant
pressure from global consumers
and governments, brands
throughout the fashion industry
are putting real effort into
improving the environmental and
social impacts of their products.
• Australian wool has a great story
to tell, and the wool industry is on
the front foot in evidencing and
promoting the fibre’s credentials.
• Australian woolgrowers should
continue to ensure that their
on-farm practices align with
the sustainability expectations
of consumers.
During the past couple of years, the topic of sustainability • ‘Regenerative agriculture’ is on
has very much moved from the fringe of the fashion industry the radar of the global fashion
to the mainstream. The issue is here to stay – and fashion industry and is receiving a
brands are increasingly examining the environmental and positive reception.
social impacts of where they source their fibre and fabric.
A nyone working in fashion and textiles
will tell you that ‘sustainability’ has not
only become the hot topic for the industry
thereby ensure continued demand for
wool in global markets. Indeed, the more
proactive brands are seeking evidence
sentiment on matters of sustainability. More
than ever, customers want to be confident
that the fibre and fabric they purchase has
(aside from COVID), but that the topic is now that woolgrowers are actively improving been produced responsibly.
firmly embedded in the industry. Although (or regenerating) the land, rather than According to the latest Pulse of
(and perhaps because) fast fashion is still just sustaining or maintaining the status Fashion report (Global Fashion Agenda,
dominant in the wider industry, there has quo. This is not about income from carbon Boston Consulting Group and Sustainable
been a real focus by many brands to discuss, credits; it goes beyond that.” Apparel Coalition), 75% of consumers
address and improve the environmental Furthermore, rather than simply surveyed (in China, US, UK, France, Brazil)
and social impacts of their sourcing, working to maintain current demand and view sustainability as extremely or very
manufacturing and distribution. prices for Australian wool, the embracing important. Furthermore, 38% of consumers
Take a look at the websites and of sustainability by brands provides the report actively switching from their
marketing collateral of the brands that the Australian wool industry with a massive preferred brand to another because it
Australian wool industry is working with opportunity to capture further demand credibly stands for positive environmental
or targeting, and you will more than likely and increase the price of Australian and/or social practices.
see the brand showcasing its eco-credentials wool. Woolgrowers themselves can
and making a public commitment to use communication platforms (such as “Most consumers include
sustainability. WoolQ – see page 61) to tell their story of sustainability considerations in their
“Sustainability and natural resource continuous improvement and connect with
decision-making framework.”
management are of course not new to customers. Premiums will come to those
Australian woolgrowers. For generations, woolgrowers who can market their eco and Pulse of Fashion report
Australian woolgrowers have managed sustainability credentials.
their rural businesses effectively while Consumers are becoming attuned to
also undertaking initiatives to protect the Consumer and greenwashing and want brands to make
natural environment,” said AWI CEO Stuart regulatory pressure genuine change. The State of Fashion
McCullough. report (BOF and McKinsey & Co) states
“However, evidence of sustainable With issues such as climate change and that nine out of ten Gen Z consumers
wool production is becoming critical plastic pollution now rarely out of the believe companies have a responsibility to
to meeting the needs of increasingly mainstream news, there has recently been address environmental and social issues.
environmentally-aware customers, and a considerable shift in global consumer The report states: “Fashion players need
OFF 9
FARM
Fashion Pact’s launch in 2019, and include tout themselves as being sustainable and
companies such as Adidas, Armani, Burberry, which have been receiving a lot of attention.
Ermenegildo Zegna, Gap, Karl Lagerfeld, For its part, AWI continues to
Kering, Nike, Prada, Ralph Lauren, Salvatore undertake and publish comprehensive
Ferragamo and Selfridges. 80% of members scientific evidence of wool’s true
have reported that joining the Fashion Pact environmental credentials (which you will
triggered an acceleration of the sustainability have read about in previous editions of
journey within their organisations. Beyond the Bale). This helps enable AWI’s
marketing arm The Woolmark Company and
“Now is the moment for fashion to the wool industry to market Australian wool
commence a new era of sustainability.” to the fashion and textile trade, consumers
and legislative policy-makers as the ‘planet-
Fashion Pact, Progress Report 2020
friendly’ fibre of choice.
“It is vital that the whole Australian
Another body driven by the fashion
wool industry, including woolgrowers,
industry is the Global Fashion Agenda that
understand the predominance of
advocates for policy changes and supportive
sustainability issues for its downstream
measures that reinforce sustainability
customers – and act on it. Tackling these
targets and establish circular systems.
issues on-farm (and along the supply
Ninety brands and retailers, representing
chain) and marketing evidence of progress
about an eighth of the global fashion
are critical to not just securing a ‘clean,
industry by sales volume have signed
green’ reputation for the Australian wool
the Global Fashion Agenda’s current 2020
industry and maintaining ‘social licence’,
Commitment for a Circular Fashion System.
but also grasping new opportunities for
Brands are not only adopting
increasing demand and higher premiums for
sustainability initiatives, they are also
Australian wool,” said Stuart McCullough.
increasingly disclosing their practices publicly.
The not-for-profit global movement Fashion
Revolution publishes a Fashion Transparency “Consumer behaviour, especially
Index annually that ranks 250 of the world’s among the younger generation,
largest fashion brands and retailers according calls for more and more attention to
to how much they disclose about their
sustainability and therefore to breeding
environmental and social policies, practices
and impacts. The fifth Index (2020) reports and manufacturing methods that
that 42% publish a time-bound, measurable protect animals and the environment.
‘sustainable materials’ strategy while 36% Consumers are also willing to pay a
disclose progress on achieving sustainable
higher price if the values underpinning
material targets (up from 29% in 2019).
to swap platitudes and promotional noise Furthermore, 32% publish supplier policies production of the raw materials
for meaningful action and regulatory on ‘biodiversity and conservation’ and 57% are compatible in this regard.”
compliance while facing up to consumer disclose procedures that address this topic. Paolo Zegna, Chairman
demand for transformational change.” Participation in the Fashion Transparency
of Ermenegildo Zegna Group
Brands must respond not only to Index is influencing brands to disclose more
pressure from consumers but also from environmental and social information.
governments and regulatory authorities. Brands are increasingly wanting to Many Australian woolgrowers, of
For instance, the European Union is now source fibre through certification schemes course, already undertake initiatives to
considering policy to have environmental because it reduces their risk of exposure protect, preserve and improve the natural
labelling on consumer products, including to supply chain issues and allows them to resources on their properties for future
apparel products, as soon as 2022, in an effort confidently be able to continue using the fibre generations and are constantly adapting
to guide consumers towards choosing the knowing that they have some protection. their animal husbandry to reflect consumer
most sustainable products. demands. Possessing a natural affinity with
An opportunity the land, these farmers are rightly proud of
Brands take and a threat ensuring their innovative farming practices
are applied in harmony with the Australian
sustainability seriously landscape and environment. But more can
This increasing demand for sustainably
Fashion brands, especially luxury fashion produced fibres and fabrics is both an always be done.
brands, are increasingly responding to opportunity and a threat to the Australian The Australian wool industry recently
these consumer and regulatory pressures wool industry. On the one hand, and in stark developed a 10-year plan (see page 4) and it
for increased sustainability. It is not only contrast to synthetic man-made fibres, wool is entirely appropriate that sustainability
small, niche brands that are embracing a is a natural, renewable and biodegradable is the underlying principle of the plan,
commitment to sustainability, it is the larger fibre and does not contribute to microplastic specifically that Australian wool be regarded
brands too. pollution. So wool is therefore well placed to as the world’s premium sustainable fibre.
For example, a global coalition of take advantage of the increasing focus for Additionally, the Australian sheep meat and
companies in the fashion and textile industry more earth-friendly products. wool industry have together been working to
along with suppliers and distributors, On the other hand, animal welfare, develop a Sheep Sustainability Framework
that together represent more than 200 emissions from agriculture, chemical (scheduled for release next month) that will
brands and a third of the fashion industry, usage throughout the wool supply chain help enable the industry to demonstrate
are signatories to the Fashion Pact. This and some processing treatments are a its sustainable practices, identify areas
is a CEO-led commitment to a common cause of concern for the fashion industry. of production for improvement, and
core of key environmental goals in three Furthermore, there is fresh competition better communicate with trade customers
areas: mitigating climate change, restoring from new fibres on the market, such as and consumers.
biodiversity and protecting the oceans. The TENCEL™ (cellulose fibre made from wood
number of signatories has doubled since the pulp) and ECONYL® (recycled nylon), that CONTINUED ON NEXT PAGE
10 OFF
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CONTINUED FROM PREVIOUS PAGE Woolmark Prize winner] Richard Malone – are Global Luxury group Kering, which
… peppering words like ‘soil health’ and ‘carbon owns brands including Gucci and Saint
What about sequestration’ into fashion week chats.”
The Vogue article continues: “Maybe
Laurent, is collaborating with The Savory
Institute’s Land to Market™ program to
regenerative fashion is rallying around regenerative
ag, as it’s come to be known because it’s
advocate verified regenerative sourcing
solutions and expand the regenerative
agriculture? so different from the other sustainability
trends and buzzwords we’ve encountered. It
has virtually no downsides or compromises,
agriculture framework in fashion’s global
supply chains.
Furthermore, Kering and Conservation
There is growing awareness and it isn’t just ‘less bad’ than conventional International have created a €5 million
farming. It’s categorically good, and it’s (AU$7.9 million) Regenerative Fund for Nature
within the fashion industry good for every living thing involved: the which over the next five years will support
of ‘regenerative agriculture’ farmers, the plants, the animals, the soil, the promising and innovative regenerative
and brands are starting to micro-organisms in the soil, and, eventually, agriculture projects across the world. As the
take a serious look at it. the consumer.” fund grows, it will provide proof of concept
for further investments in regenerative
“Regenerative agriculture harbors agriculture. Australian woolgrowers are
A lthough there are several Australian
woolgrowers who are recognised
pioneers in regenerative agriculture and
considerable promise for the future.”
LVMH Group
eligible to apply; applications will be accepted
annually, between 28 January and 30 April
– see www.conservation.org/projects/
there is growing interest in it, and although regenerative-fund-for-nature for details.
Australian woolgrowers take good care Is regenerative agriculture just a shiny
of the land on their properties, there is new buzzword in the fashion industry’s “Regenerative agriculture is a multi-
considered to be only a relativity small sustainability conversation or are brands
percentage of Australian woolgrowers benefit solution which supports
taking action? It is a bit early to know for
that would regard themselves as “doing sure – remember, even a brand’s regular Kering’s sustainability ambitions to
regenerative agriculture”. product development and manufacture mitigate our environmental impacts
However, in a recent AWI survey usually takes more than 12 months before and deliver positive outcomes
(May 2020) of more than 1,000 woolgrowers, it is delivered to retailers. However, there
89% of growers reported using more than along our supply chain.”
are companies that have already launched
one practice to encourage soil health Marie-Claire Daveu,
(which is the key aspect of regenerative Chief Sustainability Officer, Kering
agriculture). Specifically, 83% preserve
groundcover, 74% undertake soil
In January, Gucci presented its new
tests, 72% undertake rotation
Natural Climate Solutions Portfolio in
grazing, 65% no-till cropping
which it says it will “champion regenerative
and 50% sow deep rooted
agriculture”. As the first step in a broader,
perennials.
long-term strategy for regenerative
So perhaps regenerative
agriculture, Gucci said it is identifying
agricultural practices are
and scaling up regenerative
more prevalent than has been
agriculture projects within its
supposed. And once those
sourcing regions, with the aim to
woolgrowers note that their
source regenerative raw materials
customers in the fashion
(including wool) for its collections.
industry are talking positively
Going beyond its own supply chain,
about regenerative agriculture,
Gucci is also incentivising farmers
then they might be prepared to
to switch to regenerative agriculture
use that terminology as an aid to
through ‘carbon farming’.
the marketing of their fibre.
Last month, global brands
So, is the global Icebreaker, Allbirds and Smartwool
announced a partnership with The New
fashion industry aware of products sourced from properties on which Zealand Merino Company on a new
regenerative agriculture? regenerative agriculture is practiced – and regenerative wool supply platform, ZQRX,
Yes. Just as regenerative agriculture as those products are being marketed as such. which aims to help woolgrowers to better
a term has been getting more and more These companies include large brands understand their environmental footprint
attention from farmers in the past few years, such as outdoor apparel brand The North and move to regenerative agriculture
the fashion industry has also started taking Face, which has a ‘Cali Wool Collection’ made practices.
notice of the practice, and it is receiving a using wool that it says is “produced through It appears that one of the major
positive reception. regenerative agriculture methods”, and US reasons why brands are attracted to
“Sourcing from regenerative womenswear brand Eileen Fisher which uses regenerative agriculture is so that they can
agricultural systems is the future for wool from farmers that it says “regenerate reduce the carbon footprint of their supply
fashion,” said Marco Bizzarri, president and depleted grasslands through holistic chain through carbon sequestration (to
CEO of Italian luxury brand Gucci, in an farming methods”. combat climate change). The 2020 Fashion
interview in November with Women’s Wear UK brand Burberry has created Transparency Index reports that 16% of
Daily, the fashion industry trade journal a ‘Regeneration Fund’ to implement brands already publish annual carbon
sometimes called ‘the bible of fashion’. regenerative agriculture practices with emissions produced within their supply
Meanwhile that other ‘bible of fashion’, Australian woolgrowers within its own chains, however it anticipates that there
for style conscious consumers, Vogue, in supply chain. According to Burberry, the will be more disclosure on brands’ efforts to
October stated: “Everyone’s talking about project works at farm level to improve reduce carbon emissions this year as more
regenerative agriculture. Brands large and carbon capture in soils, improve watershed brands join the Fashion Pact and the UN
small – from Allbirds and Patagonia to and soil health, reduce dryland salinity and Fashion Industry Charter.
Maggie Marilyn and [last year’s International promote biodiverse habitats. PHOTO: MediaProductionOFF 11
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Technology to
trace Aussie wool
to final product
From sheep to shop: AWI and Everledger are developing a system to trace the source and journey
of Australian wool through to the end products. PHOTO (right): Nastasic
further from its point of origin. This will and effectively from other wools and other
AWI and pioneering create new sources of value for woolgrowers, fibres in the global market.
technology company manufacturers and retailers, as well as “AWI and our stakeholders have been
Everledger are collaborating transparency for end consumers. monitoring the rapid escalation in emphasis
on a pilot project to track AWI is therefore working to promote being placed on provenance, corporate social
the traceability of global supply chains responsibility, and the perennial concerns
selected Australian wools so that all stakeholders and consumers regarding supply chain efficiency and
as they move along the understand the full value of a product made biosecurity,” John said.
supply chain from farm from Australian wool. “Traceability and transparency are
through to finished product, critical for safeguarding the global reputation
of Australian wool. This partnership with
which ultimately will enable “Traceability and transparency
Everledger will help us to ease the flow of
retailers and end consumers are critical for safeguarding the global
information up and down the supply chain
to easily check that the reputation of Australian wool.” to all parties, and so communicate wool’s
product is made from world- John Roberts, AWI COO benefits to a wider audience. Ultimately, this
is good news for our farmers and related
renowned Australian wool. AWI has joined up with digital small businesses that rely on Australia’s
transparency company Everledger to build remarkable sheep to make a living.
A ustralian woolgrowers have made great
advancements in wool production during
the past two hundred years, and today
and host an Electronic Chain of Custody
Tool (ECCT) on its platform (for proof of
concept) that, using ‘blockchain technology’,
“The project findings from this pilot
project will determine whether we will
invest in a full platform or look to participate
they are justifiably proud of their tradition aims to track and validate the exchange of in an alternative.”
of excellence. Australia is well known for ownership of selected wools as they move Founded in 2015, Everledger is
producing wool that is regarded as being the along the supply chain from farm through an award-winning global company
finest and softest wool produced anywhere overseas processing to finished products. headquartered in London.
– the country produces about 90% of the Different participants at each stage “We’re delighted to design and manage
world’s fine apparel wool. of the supply chain will be able to connect a solution that will help AWI to deliver
However, sharing the excellence and through the Everledger platform. Recorded a more transparent value chain,” said
provenance of this premium natural fibre with evidence can be used to demonstrate Everledger CEO, Leanne Kemp. “By sharing
the end consumers of a product can be difficult compliance, providing more confidence provenance information securely – from
because the raw fibre goes through so many on the authenticity and provenance of farm to consumer – all participants can enjoy
hands and processes from farmgate before it the product. Ultimately, a retailer or end the benefits of traceability. AWI is taking
is ends up in a product available at retail. consumer will have access to information a lead for other traditional industries in
Being in such a competitive industry that allows them to evidence how the Australia to follow.”
as fashion with so many other natural original wool was sourced and processed
and synthetic fibres on the market, it is throughout its journey. Hear more about the initiative
important that Australian wool’s reputation AWI Chief Operations Officer, John in Episode 164 of AWI’s
for quality, authenticity and low eco- Roberts says an effective ECCT will enable The Yarn podcast at
footprint be actively protected as it travels Australian wool to differentiate itself clearly www.wool.com/podcast.12 OFF
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Wool set to
gain from push FIBRE PRODUCTION
towards a circular
Every year, sheep produce a new fleece,
making wool a completely renewable fibre
source. Wool is grown in the simple mix
economy
of sunshine, water, grass and fresh air. In
contrast, synthetic fibres are derived from
non-renewable petrochemicals and fossil
fuels, which when extracted de-sequester
carbon stored millions of years ago.
With the global fashion and textile industry under pressure
from consumers and regulators to reduce its waste and
pollution, there is a push for the supply chain to change GARMENT USE PHASE
its method of production from a wasteful ‘linear’ model
How often clothes are worn is the
towards a sustainable ‘circular’ model. Wool has a unique most influential factor in determining
set of ‘circular’ features – such as being a renewable and environmental impacts from clothing.
biodegradable fibre, and suitable for reuse and recycling – Wool garments are on average kept in use
which should make the fibre more sought after by companies for longer periods of time than garments
made from other fibre types (and are very
along the supply chain including brands and retailers. suitable for repair if needed).
In addition, consumers wash wool clothing
W hen looking at many of the
environmental issues that today’s
society is facing, it is becoming clear to many
fast fashion, there are growing regulatory
pressures, especially in the European
Union (EU) which is a key market for
less frequently than other fibre types,
saving water, energy and detergent
associated with laundering.
that the current ‘linear’ model of textile Australian wool, to force the industry to
production has reached its limits and is no adopt the circular economy. Wool’s attributes are so highly valued that,
longer working for people nor the planet. This A comprehensive policy and even after a garment has finished its long
is why brands, manufacturers, regulators and legislative framework to achieve service life with one person, the fibre is
NGOs see a solution in a different economic circularity in the textile industry is being still suitable to be kept in use via three
model – the ‘circular’ economy. developed through the EU’s European further ways:
The circular economy is based on the Green Deal and its Circular Economy
principles of: Action Plan. Addressing waste and 1st life extension – Reuse: Wool is the most
• using renewable resources pollution in the textile industry is a key reused fibre on the planet of the major
• designing out waste and pollution goal of the EU’s plans. apparel fibres, with wool garments often
• keeping products and materials in use for Adoption can be expected by EU preferentially donated for extended life.
a long time; and member states within two years. Other
• regenerating natural systems. jurisdictions may well follow. 2nd life extension – ‘Closed loop’ recycling:
Many brands and designers are asking The strategy aims to help the EU This involves high-value wool garments
themselves how they can shift into a circular shift to an economy in which fashion and deconstructed to enable new yarns to
business model and create circular products. textile products are designed to be more be spun and new high-value garments
The answer is wool. long-lasting, reusable and recyclable, fabricated. Wool is the most recyclable fibre
In stark contrast to synthetic and encourage sustainable production. on the planet of the major apparel fibres.
fibres, wool is by nature a circular fibre Furthermore, through the EU’s Extended
(see opposite). In the Material Circularity Producer Responsibility legislation, 3rd life extension – ‘Open loop’ recycling:
Indicator by the Ellen MacArthur Foundation, brands will soon be responsible for This is essentially ‘down cycling’, in
wool gets the highest score possible. the entire life-cycle of their products which wool products are pulled apart
AWI supports the movement towards (production and post-retail) including and fabricated into cheaper non-
a more circular fashion industry to better take-back, recycling and final disposal. woven products for insulation, padding,
compete with synthetics. Brands must start designing for interiors etc.
Through the company’s marketing circularity.
arm, The Woolmark Company, AWI is The wool industry is unique in
increasingly championing and educating having a package of circular features that
brands and the supply chain about wool’s align and show excellent fit with the EU’s
GARMENT DISPOSAL
innate circular attributes. It is vital that The European Green Deal principles.
Woolmark Company continues to provide AWI is engaged at an EU level, Wool is made of a 100% natural
the scientific evidence and a pathway for drawing on its extensive research in this biodegradable protein, similar to that
companies to incorporate wool into their space and working with the International found in human hair. When a wool product
products to lighten their eco-footprint and Wool Textile Organisation (IWTO), to reaches its end-of-life and is disposed of,
demonstrate an alignment to circularity. champion wool throughout the EU’s the wool fibre readily decomposes in soil,
policy and legislative development slowly releasing valuable nutrients and
Regulatory pressure process. AWI is also engaging with carbon back into the earth, acting like a
in the EU its brand and supply chain partners fertiliser. In contrast, synthetic fibres do
Aside from a self-initiated push by the to raise awareness of the regulatory not biodegrade but instead accumulate in
global fashion and textile industry towards issues and share the company’s research landfill and release microplastics.
a circular economy and a slowing down of and analysis.OFF 13
FARM
Wool fits into a sustainable circular model of
textile production that minimises waste and pollution
FIBRE PRODUCTION
RENEWABLE
LOOP
G OPEN
CYCLIN
RE PRODUCT
PRODUCT RECYCL
ING CLOSED LOO
DISPOSAL
P MANUFACTURE
SLOW FASHION,
BIODEGRADABLE
NOT FAST FASHION
REU
SE
RE
PA
IR
PRODUCT DISTRIBUTION
USE PHASE & RETAIL
SLOW FASHION,
LONG PRODUCT LIFE
NOT FAST FASHION
Synthetic fibres are more aligned with an unsustainable
linear model of textile production with waste and pollution
FIBRE PRODUCT DISTRIBUTION PRODUCT PRODUCT
PRODUCTION MANUFACTURE & RETAIL USE PHASE DISPOSAL
NON RENEWABLE FAST FASHION FAST FASHION SHORT LIFE LANDFILL
MICRO PLASTICS14 OFF
FARM
Traceable wool from
farm to fashion
United States-based menswear brand Wool&Prince and its womenswear
sister-brand wool& now have a completely traceable Merino wool supply chain
that champions the natural fibre’s origin and heritage in Australia.
“As a family-owned organisation,
Apparel from Wool& we take seriously the responsibility of
and Wool&Prince
made with Merino preserving the environment for future
wool sourced from generations and to leave the land and its
‘Ashmore’ in South natural resources in a better state in which
Australia.
they were acquired,” said Keith McBride,
Chairman of AJ & PA McBride Ltd.
“Our dedicated staff work hard to
ensure that grazing techniques work in
partnership with the natural environment.
Every day they do simple things to improve
their environmental sustainability, whether
it be improving efficiency in energy usage,
fencing off dams to increase biodiversity,
introducing tree-planting programs for
re-vegetation and animal welfare, or using
different stocking strategies to improve soil
health and groundcover.
“In the twenty-first century,
W ool&Prince was famously launched
in 2013 when its founder, Mac Bishop,
successfully wore his Merino wool shirt for
coastline, which has an annual production of
more than 800 Merino wool bales averaging
17.7 micron. Producing high quality Merino
sustainability increasingly relies on new
technologies and scientific advances and AJ
& PA McBride is committed to participating
100 straight days without washing or ironing, wool, the McBride family utilises innovative in research and collaborating with
proving the easy-care and versatile nature farming practices to manage their sheep government agencies, research organisations
of the fibre. From a single shirt product, the and land. The farm is specifically focused and other industry bodies that address
brand’s range has expanded massively, but on improving energy efficiencies, land natural resource management issues and
high-quality Merino wool is still at its heart. conservation and biodiversity. promote sustainable agriculture.”
In 2018, its womenswear sister-brand wool& As well as being a profitable business
was launched, again with Merino wool as the Sustainable and ensuring the long-term health of the
brand’s foundation. wool-growing land, key to the company’s mission of
Pieces across the two brands’ AJ & PA McBride believes quality production ensuring it is a good corporate citizen also
collections now feature Merino wool is dependent on a healthy environment includes it being an employer of choice (by
from AJ & PA McBride whose family have and the company’s diverse activities are providing staff with quality conditions
been woolgrowers in South Australia for managed with the aim of minimal impact and facilities) and an active member of the
six generations, and which celebrated its on the environment. community (by supporting local towns,
centenary last year – see opposite page. community events, community service and
The traceable Merino wool has been agricultural education).
sourced from ‘Ashmore’, located close
to Kingston SE on the state’s south-east
US brands Wool&Prince and Wool& now source their
Merino wool from AJ & PA McBride Ltd’s ‘Ashmore’
property in South Australia, where looking after the
long-term health of the land is a priority.You can also read
