WORKING TOGETHER FOR A BRIGHTER FUTURE - ISSUE 82 MARCH 2020 - Australian Wool Innovation
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ISSUE 82 MARCH 2020 PROFIT FROM WOOL INNOVATION www.wool.com WORKING TOGETHER FOR A BRIGHTER FUTURE 08 NORTH POLE 51 RHDV2 RABBIT SMART TAGS PUT 53 IN WINTER CALICIVIRUS TO THE TEST
36 F LYSTRIKE VACCINE R&D 20 P RINCE PROMOTES WOOL EDITOR OFF-FARM ON-FARM Richard Smith E richard.smith@wool.com 4 Review of Performance 32 Sheep of the future CONTRIBUTING WRITER 4 Wool industry long term plan 34 Good news on wool residues Lisa Griplas E lisa.griplas@wool.com 5 Getting sporty in Japan 35 Measuring wool follicle density 6 Wool grows in sportswear 36 Flystrike vaccine research update Australian Wool Innovation Limited A L6, 68 Harrington St, The Rocks, 7 Seamless Merino knitwear 38 Sheep flystrike risk factors Sydney NSW 2000 GPO Box 4177, Sydney NSW 2001 8 Dark Ice Project to cross the Arctic 40 Parasite control: how do you compare? P 02 8295 3100 E info@wool.com W wool.com 10 International Woolmark Prize 41 ParaBoss resources AWI Helpline 1800 070 099 42 Putting WormBoss into practice 12 Collaborative education initiative SUBSCRIPTION 13 Karl Lagerfeld and Woolmark 43 Parasite management plans Beyond the Bale is available free. To subscribe contact AWI 14 Consumers urged to #buyfromthebush 44 Is your WEC provider up to scratch? P 02 8295 3100 E info@wool.com 15 Sleepy Merino pyjamas 45 New WEC test Beyond the Bale is published by Australian 46 Merino Lifetime Productivity Wool Innovation Ltd (AWI), a company 16 Sarah Jane Bond baby blankets funded by Australian woolgrowers and the 18 SWOOLLY knitwear from WA 48 AWI flystrike publications Australian Government. AWI’s goal is to help increase the demand for wool by actively 19 Wool care is easy campaign 49 New footrot resources selling Australian wool and its attributes through investments in marketing, innovation 19 Wardrobe.NYC’s timeless luxury 50 National Wild Dog Action Plan and R&D – from farm to fashion and interiors. 20 Prince promotes wool to textile trade 51 RHDV2 rabbit calicivirus COPYRIGHT 21 Students design Merino outerwear 52 Coordinating wild dog control Material in Beyond the Bale is copyright. 21 The Wool Lab expands 53 AWI smart tags put to the test Reproduction of the material is encouraged. However prior permission must be obtained 22 Click to buy with Farfetch 54 Improving pregnancy scanning adoption from the Editor. 23 Fusalp’s après ski and chic urban knits 55 Shearing handpiece to get smart DISCLAIMER To the extent permitted by law, Australian 24 Machine-washable wool suits 56 WA shearing camp provides a future Wool Innovation Ltd excludes all liability 24 AWI receives award in China 58 Shearing shed design workshop for loss or damage arising from the use of, or reliance on, the information contained in 25 Wool moving onward in Japan 59 Shearing competitions promote quality this publication. The Woolmark symbol is a certification mark 26 India gets crafty with wool 59 Woolmark bale stencil registered in many countries. © 2020 Australian Wool Innovation Ltd. All 27 Wool grows at retail in Vietnam 60 LambEx heads to Melbourne in July rights reserved. 28 Indian students inspired by wool 61 Students gain insights into ram health ADVERTISING SALES 29 Wool4School’s 100,000 students Steve Luxford, Pulse Hub Pty Ltd 62 Fostering wool industry leaders P 0429 699 553 30 Chanelle’s Wool4School journey E steve.luxford@pulsehub.com.au 63 Future leaders’ optimism for wool Advertising is subject to terms and conditions 64 Price risk management published on the ratecard, which is available from Pulse Hub. 66 EMI steadies and still historically high ISSN 67 WoolQ 1447-9680 WOOL.COM 68 Coronavirus (COVID-19) outbreak in China To subscribe to the free monthly AWI e-newsletter FRONT COVER for woolgrowers, and the weekly wool market review 70 Readers’ photos A shearer training camp for young Ingenious e-newsletter, visit www.wool.com/subscribe Australians in the Mid-West region of Western Australia has made them job ready for shed work, thereby benefiting both the wool industry and AWI INVESTMENT STRATEGIES local communities. Read more on page 56. Marketing Sheep Production, Consultation Science & Technology feedback@wool.com Processing Innovation This magazine is printed on PEFC Traceability & Education Extension (Programme for the Endorsement of WOOLMARK.COM Forest Certification) paper stock. instagram/BeyondTheBale facebook.com/TheWoolmarkCompany twitter.com/woolinnovation instagram.com/TheWoolmarkCompany youtube.com/AWIWoolProduction twitter.com/woolmark wool.com/podcast youtube.com/TheWoolmarkCompany View Beyond the Bale online at BtB http://beyondthebale.wool.com GD3719
UPFRONT 3 GETTING ON WITH BUSINESS We are continuing with initiatives to help increase the Stuart McCullough Chief Executive Officer demand for wool through investments in marketing and Australian Wool Innovation R&D – from farm to fashion. RECOVERING Whether you are recovering from drought 1500-1600c EMI is good, but not great. I still and/or bushfire, I urge you take advantage firmly believe that Merino is a $20-fibre, FROM DROUGHT of AWI resources. This includes utilising because cashmere is a $120-fibre, and the AND BUSHFIRE the resources of the AWI-funded grower fibre characteristics of cashmere and wool The past few months have seen some networks which run in each state: Sheep are precisely the same. While cashmere of the most dramatic climatic conditions Connect in NSW, South Australia and is slightly finer on average, Australia has that Australia has seen. I have been deeply Tasmania; Leading Sheep in Queensland, Merino wools that are as fine as cashmere concerned about the circumstances of the BestWool/BestLamb in Victoria and The and have a better length. I am very confident many woolgrowers and rural communities Sheep’s Back in WA. Their website and that the EMI can reach heights of $20+ again. that have not only been experiencing contact details are at www.wool.com/ However, we are facing some tough global the effects of ongoing drought conditions, networks or call the AWI Helpline on economic issues: international trade tensions but also those of you who have been 1800 070 099. such as those involving the US and China; affected by the unprecedented scale of the weakened consumer demand for all goods bushfires this season. AWI REVENUE AND (not just wool); and now there are the EXPENDITURE worries about the Coronavirus, although this For a long time now, AWI has been proactive thankfully hasn’t had a significant effect on In the past 6-12 months, AWI’s revenue, in providing support and information the wool market so far. which is largely dependent on wool levy resources to woolgrowers in need. On income, has taken a hit. This is due to a the AWI website at www.wool.com/ It’s important we remain confident and combination of three things. Firstly, the droughtresources, we make available a show resilience during this period of market reduction in the rate of wool levy from 2% range of drought planning and management fluctuation. I strongly believe that the to 1½%, which came into effect on 1 July last premium and natural qualities of our fibre publications, webinar recordings and other year. Secondly, the fall in Australia’s wool and the relationships we have built along resources for woolgrowers going into, production caused by the drought. Thirdly, the supply chain during the past decade enduring or recovering from drought. the fall in the EMI that began about 10 ensures a positive outlook for Australian We also provide links to useful external months ago resulting in the EMI now being wool. At AWI, while we work to defend resources and government agencies that about 25% down on the record prices we had traditional markets like suiting, we are very provide drought assistance. As this fire during 2018/19. active in pursuing new and growing markets, season began, we also made available on the AWI website at www.wool.com/bushfires especially in sports and athleisure apparel, AWI operates in a lean, efficient and a range of resources for woolgrowers to and in regions like the USA, where there is transparent manner, but just like any prepare for and recover from bushfires. great potential to grow the market for wool. business with a reduced income, we have had Thankfully, many parts of the country to make cutbacks in staffing and projects. REVIEW OF While we have had healthy reserves, some of have recently received some reasonable which we are using, the reality is that with PERFORMANCE falls of rain and green grass is returning to AWI is now 98% through implementing a reduced revenue we can’t provide the level paddocks. While not everyone has received the recommendations of the company’s of R&D and marketing that we had done in the same amount of rain and it’s probably independent Review of Performance (ROP). previous years. Nevertheless, rest assured too soon to say that the drought has broken, To aid transparency with woolgrowers, that we are making sure that what we do is the conditions for a lot of woolgrowers industry and Government, AWI’s online done for the maximum benefit of Australian has improved, which is a great relief. Many Review of Performance Implementation woolgrowers. woolgrowers will be considering purchasing Portal (ROPIP) has been available for all to replacement sheep and restocking, or WOOL MARKET view since we launched it in September 2018. letting their stock out of containment It continues to provide detailed and up to yards. For those woolgrowers, AWI provides AND PRICES date information about the progress that information resources for rebuilding in a During the past few months, prices have has been made by AWI in implementing the considered way to maximise benefits and begun to recover from the fall in the EMI recommendations. See the next page and avoid potential problems. that happened in mid-2019. The current http://rop.wool.com for more details.
4 UPFRONT REVIEW OF PERFORMANCE RECOMMENDATIONS AWI’S PROGRESS OF IMPLEMENTATION As part of AWI’s three-year business cycle, an independent THEME IMPLEMENTATION PROGRESS review of performance (ROP) of AWI is routinely undertaken 100%* to assess the company’s performance. The latest ROP was CONSTITUTION undertaken by Ernst & Young (EY) for the period 2015-2018. 24 out of 24 recommendations complete. EY’s report, which was published in July 2018, included 82 recommendations. 97%* GOVERNANCE In September 2018, AWI launched its ROP 20 out of 23 recommendations complete. Implementation Portal at rop.wool.com to provide 98%* detailed and up to date information to woolgrowers MONITORING EVALUATION about the progress made by AWI in implementing the 82 & REPORTING recommendations. Displayed right is a summary of the 13 out of 16 recommendations complete. overall progress, and the progress across each of the 100%* seven themes of the recommendations. COLLABORATION 3 out of 3 recommendations complete. Further information is available at rop.wool.com 98%* PEOPLE & CULTURE 98% 6 out of 7 recommendations complete. 90%* CONSULTATION AWI POSITION 4 out of 5 recommendations complete. OVERALL Agree/ Industry IMPLEMENTATION agree (81) 96%* ROP RECOMMENDATIONS PROGRESS For Shareholder & IMPLEMENTATION Consideration (1) 2 out of 4 recommendations complete. * Percentage figure is calculated on the cumulative completion rate within each theme. (as at 11 February 2020) Remaining recommendations at various completion stages. To view individual recommendation progress rates, visit rop.wool.com WOOL INDUSTRY LONG-TERM PLAN AWI’s Woolgrower meeting, and these were grouped into the Consultation Group is to following nine main themes for discussion: Genetics; Animal welfare and biosecurity; WHAT IS THE develop a 10-year strategic plan for the Australian wool Feral pests; Pastures, farming systems and drought; Shearer and wool handler training; WOOLGROWER industry, in consultation Digital; Market intelligence and traceability; Grower engagement; and Marketing. CONSULTATION with woolgrowers and other industry stakeholders. Consultation with wider industry GROUP? AWI will resource the stakeholders will be paramount throughout AWI’s new consultation model was the plan’s year-long development process. It development of the plan. is anticipated that this wider consultation developed with industry endorsement and rolled out last year. It enables AWI process will include a combination of online to ascertain the key R&D and marketing T he Woolgrower Consultation Group and phone surveys, one-on-one meetings, priorities of woolgrowers and industry. (WCG) held its first meeting on 15 workshops and regional meetings. It has two key forums through which November last year, which was attended by AWI formally consults and engages with One of the strong messages arising from representatives from 26 woolgrower groups woolgrower representative groups. the WCG meeting was the importance of as well as the Department of Agriculture, attracting and mentoring young entrants to Firstly, the AWI Woolgrower Industry together with AWI directors and managers. the industry. This will mean ensuring gender Consultation Panel (WICP) which One of the main purposes of the WCG and age equity is evident within the WCG is made up of national woolgrower meeting was to discuss the framework for and will be achieved by each WCG member representative organisations, the a wool industry 10-year strategy (which nominating a suitable second representative Department of Agriculture, AWI and an will help guide AWI’s three-year Strategic to mentor and join them as part of the WCG. independent chair. The second forum, Plans). The development of a strategic the AWI Woolgrower Consultation Group AWI is facilitating the development of the long-term vision for the wool industry was (WCG) is a broader group comprising 10-year industry plan, while the WCG is the one of the recommendations from the 2018 representatives of state and regional principal oversight body for the project and Review of Performance. production-based woolgrower groups, as will be the ones ultimately to approve the well as the members of the WICP. Members of the WCG were asked to supply to plan. It is the intention that the plan will AWI their group’s research and development be launched before the next AWI Annual MORE INFORMATION (R&D) and marketing priorities prior to the General Meeting (AGM) in November. www.wool.com/consultation
OFF 5 FARM A clip from a video by Lanvin Sport promoting its wool golfing apparel in Japan. A promotion of Munsingwear wool golfing apparel in Japan. WOOL TEES business case so that we can extend our relationship with other brands of Descente Group in the future.” OFF IN JAPAN THE THREE BRANDS Munsingwear is one of the famous golf wear brands in Japan for men and women. It is the third largest brand in the Descente Group with 150 stores and 500 wholesale The biggest sportswear group in Japan has expanded the partners. Wool apparel promoted during number of its products containing wool, thanks to a marketing the recent campaign has included golfing jackets, jumpers, trousers and skirts. collaboration with The Woolmark Company during the past Autumn/Winter season as well as the upcoming Spring/ Lanvin Sport is widely acknowledged as a Summer season. high-end French golf wear brand in Japan and has 58 stores and 60 wholesale accounts. Wool jumpers and jackets have been T he Descente Group is the largest Japanese sportswear group with annual sales of A$1.87 billion and it operates several Australian wool-growing properties in 2018, and close work with the various brand managers, it decided to expand its use of wool promoted during the past winter season. Marmot is a well-known outdoor wear major sports and outdoor apparel brands and convey the story of the fibre to consumers. brand for men and women in Japan, with including golfing brands Munsingwear and sales mainly from 800 wholesale partners. Lanvin Sport and outdoor brand Marmot. “Through this collaboration with three It is the first brand in Japan to use the of Descente’s brands, we are marketing 100% Merino wool water and wind resistant The Woolmark Company is supporting the Merino wool as the best fibre for sports Neulana Protect fabric made using OptimTM promotion of nearly 100,000 pieces of wool and outdoor activities, but also promoting technology. Aside from wool jackets, other and wool blend products of these three Merino wool as a natural and earth-friendly wool products promoted have included brands during the Autumn/Winter season fibre of choice,” said AWI Country Manager long-sleeve T-shirts. and upcoming Spring/Summer season. Japan Samuel Cockedey. MARKETING ACTIVITIES Descente has in the past only used a small “We are encouraging these three brands amount of wool. However, following an to increase their use and marketing of The marketing of the brands’ wool products inspiring AWI-organised tour of several wool whilst also creating a successful includes print and digital channels as well as in-store promotion. Print advertorials promoting the wool products and educating readers about the natural origin and benefits of wool have appeared in the most famous and major newspaper in Japan, Nikkei, golf magazines and brochures. Digital promotion has included features on Descente’s and the brands’ own websites, the most famous outdoor/fashion website in Japan ‘Go Out Web’, as well as social media posts on Instagram and Facebook. In-store promotion at all 208 of Munsingwear’s and Lanvin Sport’s stores across Japan has included window displays, brochures, wool care guides, special swing tickets and digital Marmot is the first brand in Japan to use the 100% Merino wool water and wind resistant signage, plus wool key ring mementos. Neulana Protect fabric made using OptimTM technology.
6 OFF FARM MERINO AT ISPO Polar explorer George Bullard launching the Dark Ice Project on The Woolmark Company stand at the ISPO sports and outdoor trade show. With the industry’s continued focus on sustainability (sustainability is no longer a trend, it is an inherent aspect of the textile industry), the world’s leading sports and outdoor trade show ISPO was this year again the perfect opportunity for brands to drive demand for Merino wool. M erino wool’s presence continues to increase in the rapidly growing sports and outdoor market. This was very much in Merino wool, provided the starting point for the kit’s development. A selection of the garments was on show at The Woolmark wool and it won the award for its cushioning properties, comfort and sustainable approach. evidence at the ISPO trade show in January Company’s stand at ISPO before they go A seamless running shoe that has a knitted through the final round of testing. Merino wool inner layer won Italian company in Munich which attracted more than 80,000 UYN a Gold Award in the Fitness & Team visitors from more than 120 countries. Also on display on The Woolmark Company Sports category. In the Outdoor category, Increased competition in the activewear stand was a prototype yoga collection Icebreaker won a Gold Award for its 100% market means a growing number of brands illustrating the full potential of Merino wool Merino wool Nature Dye 200 Oasis Long are looking to innovate with natural in technical seamless performance apparel Sleeve Crewe, while Italian company SALEWA performance fibres, such as Australian (see page 7). Partnering with knitting machine won an award for its Fanes Wool Powertex Merino wool. This move not only allows manufacturer Santoni Shanghai and designed Jacket for women. for a point of difference, but also fulfils by innovative knitwear designers Studio Eva x Carola, the seamless yoga collection was created A new award category at ISPO this year the demands of environmentally-aware using Merino wool yarn from Südwolle Group. was the Brandnew category for newcomers consumers seeking a healthier lifestyle. to the sporting goods business. Founded AWI’s marketing arm The Woolmark The latest edition of AWI’s The Wool Lab in 2018, Berlin-based label mvdham uses Company once again exhibited at ISPO, Sport sourcing guide was again available for only natural fibers, as is the case with its displaying innovative wool products – for viewing, providing visiting manufacturers and LAPALUE range that uses a padded two- activities such as yoga, hiking and cycling – brands with direct access to the world’s most layer fabric made from wool and silk, which and championing Australian wool’s natural innovative technical performance fabrics and won the company the ISPO Brandnew yarns. The inaugural The Wool Lab Vision (see award in the Urban Outdoor category. benefits and technical properties. page 25) was also on show. Zhejiang Xinao Textiles of China won the In a major new initiative, The Woolmark Company along with adidas, BYBORRE WOOL WINNERS ISPO Textrends award for the Base Layer and GORE-TEX were announced as official OF ISPO AWARDS category for its Bundle yarn. The yarn is produced using Hybrid Spinning Technology technical partners for the ‘Dark Ice Project’, Prestigious awards were won at ISPO by where ultra-fine Merino wool together with an ambitious winter expedition to the several companies for their wool innovations. polyamide is ‘bundled’ together during the Arctic, strategised by three of Britain’s most German company Alpina Sports won Product yarn formation process. Circular knitted accomplished polar explorers – see pages of the Year in the Snowsports category for its fabrics and garments made from the Bundle 6-7 overleaf. The four companies have been Prolan Vest which is a back protector to help quality yarn exhibit a high degree of wear tasked to design and create a kit to meet the keep skiers or mountain bikers from injury. performance while maintaining a smooth athletes’ physiological and environmental It consists of three layers of pressed 100% surface appearance. needs. The explorers’ fibre of choice,
OFF 7 FARM SEAMLESS wool has a wonderful soft touch. Choosing the right twist level is always a balancing act between the yarn’s hairiness and softness. MERINO Next-to-skin clothing must be abrasion resistant and so a higher twist level is needed.” “The beauty and sophistication of this KNITWEAR natural fibre means we can create styles with an unparalleled level of fineness and softness, creating innovative patterns and structures on a single finished fabric.” Leila Guo, Santoni DESIGNED FOR PERFORMANCE The collection was constructed using the latest seamless technology circular knitting machines from Santoni Shanghai. What A new prototype yoga collection that illustrates the full started as a way to manufacture comfortable potential of Merino wool in seamless performance apparel under garments, these machines are now is being showcased to the textile trade by AWI’s subsidiary opening new markets. The Woolmark Company, with the aim to drive new growth “Seamless technology from Santoni Shanghai opportunities for wool in sports and performance wear markets. is key to creating graphics within the textiles,” explained Santoni Shanghai Marketing Director, Leila Guo. “When seams are removed, M erino wool is soft next to skin, breathable, naturally elastic and odour resistant, making it ideal for stretch related activities like and brands to use Merino wool in their own seamless performance apparel, thereby building demand for the fibre. fantastic results can be achieved; the garment attains a new level of comfort that is seldom found with conventional methods. yoga. In addition, the eco-credentials of the fibre – namely being 100% natural, renewable “Combining wool with Santoni Shanghai’s “This innovative new concept yoga technology means we can create a unique and biodegradable – align with yoga’s connection with both nature and mindfulness. collection draws on the form and touch experience with fine gauges, no seams function of seamless construction whilst and mindful engineering. Clothing has that Seeing a gap in the market for seamless highlighting wool’s natural benefits and all-important second skin effect that feels soft yoga apparel made from Merino wool, The innate versatility.” and sensual against the skin.” Woolmark Company’s processing innovation Julie Davies, AWI team introduced Merino wool to the state-of- MORE INFORMATION the-art circular seamless knitting machines www.woolmark.com/yoga of Santoni. “With the increasing rise of mindful Through rigorous product development, a consumption and the importance of health 12-piece collection was designed by innovative and wellbeing, The Woolmark Company knitwear design studio Eva x Carola, using brought together a collection of like-minded Merino yarn from Südwolle Group. Created partners inspired by fitness and yoga’s in a vibrant colour palette, the collection connection with all things natural,” explained includes leggings, crop tops and bras, racer- AWI General Manager, Processing Innovation back tank top and a T-shirt, all designed with & Education Extension Julie Davies. performance in mind. The Woolmark Company works closely The collection was launched at the sporting with spinners to develop Merino wool and textiles trade show Performance Days in wool-rich yarns for specific categories, such Munich in November and continues to be as performance-wear, and in this way drives shown by The Woolmark Company at other new growth opportunities for wool. leading trade shows, including ISPO (see Choosing the perfect yarn was a major opposite). International trade shows are the factor for the design of this collection, ideal place to showcase the collection, with the with Eva x Carola finding the right balance aim to inspire the attending manufacturers between pushing a next level three- dimensionality in seamless products with a certain level of performance, whilst also retaining the right touch and feel. The collection’s hero yarn is a superfine 15.5 micron Merino wool yarn from the Südwolle Group. “For our next-to-skin yarns we use superfine Merino wool, ranging from 15.5 microns upwards to ensure next-to-skin softness and comfort,” said Michel Mastio, Director Circular A prototype seamless yoga collection made Knitting and Hosiery Yarns, Südwolle Group. from Merino wool is being showcased by The Woolmark Company at trade shows across the “The persistent rumour that wool is itchy is world to inspire brands to use the fibre in similarly outdated and clothing made from this Merino innovative ways in their own collections.
8 OFF FARM AN EXPEDITION ACROSS THE ARCTIC IN THE DARKNESS OF AN ICY WINTER The three explorers taking part in the Dark Ice Project will trek across the North Pole in the total darkness of the Arctic winter, experiencing below -40o Celsius temperatures and hurricane-force winds. Luckily, they’ll be wearing Merino wool! FAST FACTS The Woolmark Company with its Dark Ice Project partners is creating the ultimate polar exploration garments for a trio of • The Dark Ice Project involves three explorers who will travel across the Arctic to the North Pole in of Britain’s most accomplished the dark of winter. The project provides a unique opportunity polar explorers embarking on a gruelling six-month expedition to to showcase and ultimately commercialise innovative products collect vital scientific data from the made from Australian Merino wool. Arctic Ocean and trek to the North Pole, all in the darkness of winter (hence the name ‘Dark Ice Project’). This is the first expedition of its kind Imagine the North Pole in winter. -40o Celsius, icy winds and complete darkness. of microplastics in the Arctic Ocean and measuring ice thickness to help understand climate change. and a unique venture. There are only a handful of polar expeditions • The Woolmark Company is an official in history that have ventured into the polar The three explorers – Alex Hibbert, George apparel partner of the Dark Ice Project winter. However, in September this year, Bullard and James Wheeldon – will set off and will bring together leading sports three Britons will venture into the darkness in September from northern Canada for the and technical apparel partners and on an unassisted six-month journey, aiming first phase of their expedition, a three-week manufacturers for the project. They to get all the way to the geographical North sail northerly on the Arctic Ocean. They will are developing an innovative Merino Pole before the sun begins to rise six months then drift in their boat while they undertake wool apparel system for each of the later in March 2021. their scientific research, until January next explorers that will enable them to year when they will begin their ski/trek to the More is known about the surface of the moon North Pole. If they arrive at the North Pole by perform and ultimately, survive. than the Arctic Ocean in winter, yet it provides 19 March 2021, they will be the first explorers • The project will help promote the a key barometer to the health of our planet. to reach the North Pole without resupply in performance and eco benefits of Merino So this first-ever winter expedition is not only polar winter conditions, before the sun rises. wool and drive product innovation that about exploring new territory but also about can be commercialised at the end of making fresh discoveries in environmental The ski/trek phase will take up to 70 days the expedition. science, such as finding out the behavior with the explorers usually trekking for 8-10
OFF 9 FARM The six-month expedition will commence in September this year, but the team have already tried out the kit on a pre-expedition trip to Canada to test and refine the equipment and garments. hours each day, in extreme cold reaching -40o “Our clothing forms an essential part Celsius and hurricane-force winds. Remember, of this project; indeed, it allows us to “The Dark Ice Project not only reinforces the trek will also be in total darkness with no survive in the harsh winter on the Arctic The Woolmark Company’s commitment sunlight during the winter months! Ocean,” said Dark Ice Project explorer to championing innovation at the fibre, George Bullard. processing and garment stage, but also The explorers’ kit and equipment will be highlights our dedication to promoting key to their success. Such extreme “We are delighted to be able to build and best-practice to ensure minimal impact conditions mean there are specific and create specialised base- and mid-layer on the environment.” exacting requirements for their garments, garments that are not only sustainably AWI CEO Stuart McCullough such as wind and water resistance, durability, sourced but also traceable from Australian breathability, moisture management and farms to the finished products. This ethos maintaining thermal comfort. aligns seamlessly with ours.” The Dark Ice Project will not only garner The Dark Ice Project draws on the The kit has currently undergone lab testing as attention for the performance and eco expertise of technical performance leaders well as two rounds of extreme wear testing to benefits of Merino wool amongst sports The Woolmark Company, adidas Terrex, ensure ultimate performance; the first being and outdoor brands, the wider apparel trade BYBORRE and GORE-TEX to design a series of high-tech environmental chamber and global media, but it will also present and create a kit to meet the athletes’ tests and the second during a one-month new and innovative wool fabrications to the physiological and environmental needs. pre-expedition trip in northern Canada. trade that can be commercialised for wider adoption. The expedition team’s scientific Merino wool is the original performance The wool single jersey base-layer developed investigations will also highlight and reflect fibre and its technical benefits coupled has successfully outperformed the single wool’s eco-credentials. with its eco-credentials – it is 100% natural, jersey base-layer previously worn by the renewable and biodegradable – make it the explorers, securing a reduction in total weight “The Dark Ice Project not only reinforces fibre of choice for the explorers’ kit. of 18%, an increase in thermal resistance of The Woolmark Company’s commitment to 26%, a 3% increase in breathability and the championing innovation at the fibre, processing dry time and drying rate improved by 28% and garment stage, but also highlights our “We are delighted to be able to build and and 61% respectively. The base- and mid- dedication to promoting best-practice to ensure create specialised base- and mid-layer layer fabrics have also undergone Woolmark minimal impact on the environment,” said AWI garments that are not only sustainably quality assurance testing. CEO Stuart McCullough. sourced but also traceable from Australian farms to the finished products.” Feedback provided by the explorers based “We are proud to have partnered with this George Bullard, on their experience on the pre-expedition group of like-minded global leaders in Dark Ice Project explorer trip will be used to make any necessary performance and innovation, challenging changes to the final kit. and inspiring us in new and unique ways.” The Woolmark Company and textile innovation studio BYBORRE have developed a wool-rich base- and mid-layer system from technical Merino yarns from the Südwolle Group, providing next-to-skin comfort, superior breathability and enhanced protection from the elements. By utilising innovative Merino wool yarns and fabrics, the explorers are able to dress lighter, without losing protective benefits such as warmth. Adidas Terrex has developed the outerwear in collaboration with BYBORRE, supported by The Woolmark Company and GORE-TEX. The outerwear includes weather protection technology from GORE-TEX, along with a wool fleece lining in the trousers and jackets for enhanced The explorers at their base during pre-expedition testing in Canada. thermoregulation, to be worn during the Their Merino garments include base-, mid- and outer-layers. ski phase of the expedition.
10 OFF FARM Models displaying the Merino wool garments by the 10 finalists in front of the crowds at the International Woolmark prize event in London. INTERNATIONAL WOOLMARK PRIZE During last month’s London Fashion Week, woolgrower Anthea Sutherland of ‘Pooginook’ presented this year’s International Woolmark Prize, the illustrious fashion competition that generates long-term demand for Australian Merino wool by connecting emerging designers and consumers with our premium fibre. level we see here tonight. Each and every The Woolmark Company, the International designer here tonight has done Australia’s Woolmark Prize generates long-term demand wool industry proud. I am so looking forward for Australian Merino wool by increasing the to going home and sharing this unforgettable knowledge of and lifetime loyalty to the fibre experience with other growers. amongst the competition’s designers and alumni around the globe. “I would like to congratulate AWI on the initiative of the International Woolmark Prize. Furthermore, the phenomenal interest in The encouragement and opportunity they these awards from fashion communities and provide to young designers and countless media globally has helped put wool back on people across the fashion industry to empower the agendas of a broader range of fashion the use of our amazing, low impact, and designers, manufacturers, brands and traceable fibre is simply outstanding.” retailers, and consequently into retail stores for consumers to purchase. Woolgrower Anthea Sutherland of ‘Pooginook’ with winning designer Richard Malone, to whom she “Each and every designer here tonight has presented this year’s International Woolmark Prize. done Australia’s wool industry proud.” THE 2019/20 COMPETITION O n an exciting February evening in Woolgrower Anthea Sutherland central London, more than 16,000km To reinforce the origin of the fibre and the integrity of the supply chain used in the from the sheep paddocks of ‘Pooginook’ in Anthea reinforced to the audience the natural creation of the collections, each finalist the southern Riverina of NSW, woolgrower eco credentials of Australian Merino wool. was this year required to present ‘traceable’ Anthea Sutherland had the distinction collections, using technology from platform of announcing the winner of the 2020 “From our unique and diverse landscape partner Provenance. By focusing on International Wool Prize in front of transparency and sharing key product is produced this exquisite and sustainable an audience comprising global fashion fibre. Our passion and dedication to our celebrities, influencers and media. sheep and to our land means we continue to work with Mother Nature, not against her, “I am part of a fifth-generation wool- to ensure our industry thrives in the most growing family, currently from Jerilderie sustainable way possible.” in Australia, standing here in front of you at the International Woolmark Prize at It was very fitting for an Aussie woolgrower London Fashion Week; what a privilege to to present the award, given that the represent Australian woolgrowers here International Woolmark Prize celebrates the tonight,” Anthea told the audience. beauty and versatility of Australian Merino wool, showcased in garments by outstanding “Many woolgrowers rarely have the emerging fashion designers. opportunity to see the end products created by Woolgrower Anthea Sutherland interviewed by Relaunched in 2012 by AWI’s marketing arm, Nine News’ Europe Correspondent Sophie Walsh at our precious fibre – especially at the stunning the International Woolmark Prize finals in London.
OFF 11 FARM information, each designer brings the upbringing in Wexford to create considered, supply chain to the shopper in a way that’s functional and beautifully made garments accessible and trustworthy. that minimise harm to the environment and works towards creating a circular, Also, for the first time this year, the 10 sustainable fashion system. designers were supported by The Woolmark Company’s Innovation Academy – a fast- Eliminating traditional chemicals to track mentoring and education program provide a natural, less intensive method helping brands implement best practices of dyeing, the Irish designer worked with to address environmental and social issues a society of incredibly skilled weavers in along with sustainable business growth. Tamil Nadu, India, using completely organic and plant-based dyes as well as more recent The 2020 International Woolmark Prize innovations using Merino wool. also saw the introduction of the inaugural Karl Lagerfeld Award for Innovation, in “Winning the Woolmark Prize is completely honour of the late icon and International unexpected,” the designer said after the Woolmark Prize alumnus who won the coat show. “It means we can continue working category in 1954. Designer Emily Adams Bode (second from with this supply chain and share our right) with models wearing three looks from her learning with other brands and designers. award-winning Merino wool collection. The Merino wool designs from the 10 It also opens up the dialogue of fashion so finalists in this year’s competition – selected from more than 300 applicants from 47 more people can be part of it.” by stitch samples from a retired 1930s countries across the world – were judged at knitting factory, and housecoats built from the finals event in London by some of the “Thank you to Australia’s woolgrowers for hundreds of individually crocheted Merino most respected fashion industry experts. growing this incredible fibre.” wool fleurettes. "What I'm loving this year is the use of wool Richard Malone “I’m really excited that this is the first Karl mixed with sustainability,” explained judge Lagerfeld Innovation Award,” the designer Edward Enninful OBE. "The Woolmark said. “He’s been such an idol and inspiration Prize for me is a sign of excellence; it puts WINNER OF THE for me. I’m also really excited to build on all designers on an international level.” the relationships I have made during my KARL LAGERFELD Woolmark Prize journey.” The competition also, once again, connected AWARD FOR with leading industry taste-makers, such INNOVATION MORE INFORMATION as actor Colin Firth and Vogue Australia's The USA’s Emily Adams Bode of BODE www.woolmarkprize.com fashion director Christine Centenera, as was crowned the first winner of The Karl ambassadors for the award. Lagerfeld Award for Innovation and was Finalist collections will be available for praised for outstanding creativity and INTERNATION commercialisation in September 2020 via the International Woolmark Prize retail innovation, the same characteristics which led to Lagerfeld’s history-making success WOOLMARK PRIZE network which includes David Jones, back in the 1954 awards. AT A GLANCE Mytheresa.com, Matchesfashion.com, Mixing left over fabrics found in • Connecting the world’s leading Takashimaya and Lane Crawford. abandoned factories, BODE beautifully fashion designers with Australian marries the old with new to bring modern WINNER OF THE interpretations to traditions of the past. Merino wool is extremely important due to the enormous influence INTERNATIONAL For the International Woolmark Prize, these designers have in setting WOOLMARK PRIZE BODE featured overcoats and suits global textile trends for The winner of this year’s International composed of reclaimed and remade equine mainstream retail brands. Woolmark Prize is Ireland’s Richard Malone show blankets, traceable and certified who created a collection inspired by his Merino wool jacquard knits inspired • Every year, the designers develop and present the most innovative collection, made from at least 70% Designer Richard Malone Australian Merino wool. (second from right) with models wearing three looks • Since its relaunch in 2012, more from his award-winning than 500 of the award’s participating Merino wool collection. designers from across the world have received an extensive wool education from product development to sourcing. • The competition’s alumni (designers and judges) are imbued with a love of wool that often translates into their subsequent collections being wool-rich. • The designs are judged by some of the most famous and respected authorities on fashion, and presented in front of the world’s media. • The winning collections are stocked by the program’s retail partners, some of the world’s most prestigious department stores and boutiques.
12 OFF FARM EDUCATION INITIATIVE INSPIRES A BESPOKE WOOL COLLABORATION The two judges of last year’s TexSelect graduate design prize, sponsored by The Woolmark Company, were so impressed with the winner’s woven designs that they subsequently chose to use the fabrics in a unique collaboration. A WI last year sponsored an award at the UK’s leading graduate design prize to encourage the use of Merino wool by the UK’s textile graduates. Entrants for The Woolmark Company TexSelect Award had September 2019: TexSelect judges Edward Crutchley and Alan Scott seeing the woven wool fabric to incorporate a minimum of 60% Merino designs of Jaeyong Kim for the first time, at the Première Vision trade show in Paris. wool into their collections and demonstrate a good understanding of the fibre’s qualities a bespoke collaboration between Jaeyong they were able to adapt and simulate the and potential application in fabric. Kim, Johnstons of Elgin, Edward Crutchley chosen designs ready for production. and The Woolmark Company – that would The award was judged by the 2019 result in several of Jaeyong’s designs being “During the visit it was a chance for us at International Woolmark Prize menswear incorporated into Edward’s Autumn/Winter Johnstons to share with Jaeyong the process and Innovation Award winner Edward 2020/21 Ready to Wear collection showcased of designing and creating in an industry Crutchley and Creative Director of luxury at London Fashion Week Men’s in January. setting,” said Johnstons designer, Beth Wilson. brand Johnstons of Elgin, Alan Scott. Central “Collaborating with Jaeyong was great, with Saint Martins’ graduate Jaeyong Kim won the award, praised for the complexity and WOVEN WOOL such creativity and a keen eye for detail, the process was seamless working on three design brilliance of his woven designs. COLLABORATION ideas for manufacture.” Three fabrics from Jaeyong’s collection were “You look closely at the work and see how industrialised by Johnstons of Elgin. Jaeyong On the second visit to Johnstons, Jaeyong saw different it is, how sophisticated,” Alan Scott had the opportunity to visit the company’s all three fabrics in production during a bespoke said at the award ceremony at September’s historic mill in Scotland twice. Firstly, on VIP mill tour. The collection consisted of: Première Vision trade show in Paris. “Colour, 7 November to translate his designs into proportion, technique. Stacks of stuff, • A tailoring fabric featuring a check design fabrics for the collection, and secondly on 10 beautifully designed, and with a modern edge. made from 100% wool. December to see the fabrics in production. • A Blazer weight jacquard fabric created using “He could be employed in a second, but he’s On the first visit, Jaeyong worked with the an interchanging double cloth structure already a designer in his own right.” Johnstons of Elgin design team to discuss made from 100% extrafine Merino wool. colour, yarn and structure before moving to Alan’s words were to prove more true than • A coating weight fabric in a stripe design the computer-aided design (CAD) area where he realised, as the comments foreshadowed constructed using 100% lambswool. January 2020: Two of Edward Crutchley’s designs December 2019: Alan Scott with TexSelect Award winner Jaeyong Kim, seeing Jaeyong’s woven wool using fabric designed by Jaeyong Kim, on show at designs brought to life on an industry scale at the Johnstons of Elgin mill in Scotland. London Fashion Week Men’s.
OFF 13 FARM Edward subsequently invited Jaeyong to his studio in London to see the final garments and assist with fitting/styling. Jaeyong was also invited backstage during Edward’s show on 4 January during London Fashion Week to see two of his designs launched on the catwalk. The third will be used by Edward in his Spring/Summer 2021 collection. “Everyone loved the fabrics and they really added to the collection,” Edward said. “Working with Jaeyong and Johnstons allowed us to add extra dimensions of texture and detail into the collection whilst at the same time celebrating how versatile wool can be.” Edward’s overall collection featured approximately 75% wool, which reflects the success of the International Woolmark Prize in imbuing designers with a knowledge and love for wool that continues through their careers. The collection was also shown in January as part of the British Fashion Council’s ‘London SHOW rooms’ initiative in Milan in collaboration with the National Chamber of Italian Fashion. Each Knit Karl box contains one of four unisex Lagerfeld designs: a pullover, cap, headband or scarf. A UNIQUE EXPERIENCE Edward helped create a truly unique and unforgettable experience for KARL LAGERFELD AND WOOLMARK Jaeyong Kim. Following the journey of fabric design, production, garment to catwalk has been invaluable for Jaeyong who has been overwhelmed with the support he has received from all parties involved. A TRIBUTE TO CELEBRATE “I went to Edward’s studio whilst they were doing styling, during which it was KARL’S LIFE AND LEGACY great to see the fabrics working their way into the collection,” Jaeyong said. Sharing a history dating back to 1954, KARL LAGERFELD and “Edward’s show was wonderful; I was The Woolmark Company last month introduced 777 limited- able to go backstage and see everything edition ‘Knit Karl’ boxes including pure Australian Merino yarn, up close. He has been helpful and personalised knitting needles, and patterns for winners to create supportive throughout, even when so busy with preparations. one of four exclusive designs imagined by Karl Lagerfeld. “I really thank The Woolmark Company B for helping set up this opportunity; it reaking down borders, everyone across In 2018, the idea of a collaboration with The definitely wasn’t something I imagined the world was invited to take part in Woolmark Company was born and together possible before graduation. I’m very a digital scavenger hunt, searching for a the two companies developed the initial much looking forward to the next steps.” unique code for the chance to win a limited phases of this special project. Furthermore, edition Knit Karl box. There were 777 knit beginning with the Autumn 2020 collection, Johnstons of Elgin also said the all KARL LAGERFELD knitwear will be made boxes created – an ode to the iconic designer’s collaboration was very productive. favourite number. The competition ran from using Woolmark-certified premium wool. “It has been a great experience 7 February until 7 March, with the exclusive “This entire year we have launched codes to be entered at www.knitkarl.com. working through this project with special projects and initiatives to celebrate The Woolmark Company, Jaeyong Both Karl Lagerfeld and his namesake brand Karl’s life and legacy,” said Caroline Lebar, and Edward,” said Johnstons of Elgin share a longstanding relationship with The Head of Image and Communications at Design Manager, Louise Sullivan. Woolmark Company. The late designer first KARL LAGERFELD. “As Karl’s first-ever “It was a real testament to the rose to fame after he won the 1954 Woolmark creation was for the Woolmark Prize in collaborative philosophy that can be Prize in the coat category. Then just 21 1954, it feels appropriate to celebrate his found in our industry, and we’re really years old, the win launched the start of his life with this collaboration with The proud at Johnstons to have had the extraordinary career that would change the Woolmark Company.” opportunity to be involved.” face of fashion.
14 OFF FARM CONSUMERS URGED TO BUY FROM THE BUSH The impacts of the drought IRIS + WOOL and bushfires are being felt well beyond the farm gate in all the twenty rural-based companies invited parts of the regional economy, to Martin Place. including retail trade and “Wowsers, Sydney really embraced us small businesses. As a result, bush businesses; it was quite incredible! Australian consumers are You could see in their eyes how much they being urged to support local cared and really wanted to support us all – and this showed at the end of the day growers and manufacturers with many of the businesses selling out of more than ever. stock,” Emily said, after returning to Burra. “I’m still pinching myself – it exceeded all my expectations as I’m quite a high T o help the economies of rural communities, many of which are affected by drought and bushfires, there price point but that didn’t put many off. I completely sold out of all size S and M and have only a few L and XL left. What have been widespread calls for city- a dream for our first ever collection. It’s dwelling Australians to visit rural and really put us in good stead to continue regional communities and spend their on as a lifestyle brand that’s passionate money on local services and products, about showcasing farm to fashion. be it a bed and meal at the local pub or a souvenir from the local store. Emily Riggs (wearing the iris + wool Eurovale “Thank you to Grace and team from top) after returning home to the farm at Burra #buyfromthebush. I am forever indebted Other initiatives have enabled businesses after participating in the #buyfromthebush to you. I loved meeting all of the other in drought-affected communities to pop-up market in Sydney, pictured here with businesses too – we have such clever showcase their products more broadly her woolgrower husband and son Sam. creative people in the country!” online for consumers, bridging the divide between city and country. These Emily Riggs of Merino wool knitwear iris + wool was featured in the September initiatives include the NSW Government’s brand iris + wool, based at Burra in the 2019 edition of Beyond the Bale. ‘Buy Regional’ campaign (www.nsw.gov.au/ mid-north of South Australia, was one of buy-regional) and Senator Hollie Hughes’ ‘Go Country for Christmas’ initiative (www.gocountryforchristmas.com.au). SARAH JANE BOND Another prominent initiative is the #buyfromthebush campaign, which was products. The response from the Sydney launched as an Instagram account in public was overwhelming,” Vanessa said. October last year by Grace Brennan, a lady from a sheep and cropping property “The idea of inspiring people in the city in Warren, NSW. In the first six weeks, to buy from the bush has bridged the $2.6 million of revenue was generated for divide between city and country and has businesses featured on its social media had a real impact both financially and pages. The campaign now has more than emotionally. The initiative has provided 220,000 followers on Instagram, with 194,000 a sense of purpose as well as a second followers on Facebook and its own website income to many in the bush. www.buyfromthebush.com.au. That's “The drought is catastrophic, and this about 400,000 potential customers 'buying was a remarkable opportunity to speak in' to bush business. It is reported to have firsthand with people in the city about increased rural postage figures by 40%. what we are going through. The genuine Another component of the Vanessa Bell of Sarah Jane Bond on her stall love and support was incredible and I still #buyfromthebush campaign that in Martin Place, being interviewed for the ABC’s get emotional even thinking about it. live breakfast show. exemplified the affinity between city and “I feel it is absolutely brilliant urban country was the #buyfromthebush pop- Vanessa Bell of Merino wool baby consumers are now aware of the incredible up market that was held in Martin Place blanket brand Sarah Jane Bond (see products, creativity and innovation the in Sydney on Thursday 12 December. 20 page 16), based at Breadalbane in bush has on offer, and have consciously retailers based in the bush were invited NSW, was another of the rural-based changed their buying behaviours. to participate and set up stalls in Martin companies invited to participate in the Place to sell their products to city folk, “My business was immediately propelled, #buyfromthebush pop-up market. from 8am to 8pm. and I certainly didn’t expect to be “We did the bush proud with every store interviewed twice for the ABC’s live MORE INFORMATION representing beautifully made and unique breakfast show which was tremendous.” www.buyfromthebush.com.au
OFF 15 FARM WAKE UP TO SLEEPY MERINO Sleepy Merino is a new sleepwear brand launched by a of Merino wool's unique properties,” Julie said. Merino woolgrower near Inverell in NSW, whose property The current range includes three styles of has been severely affected by drought. The brand was set up women’s pyjama top (flutter sleeve, short as a drought diversification business and sells pyjamas that sleeve and long sleeve), sleep pants, sleep shorts and a long sleeve sleep shirt. They are are made in Australia from 100% Australian Merino wool. available in a range of sizes and colours (red, grey, charcoal and navy). Soon to be launched are a men's pyjama range, a new women’s flutter sleeve sleep shirt, some new colours and women’s and men’s sheepskin slippers. The brand uses 100% Australian Merino wool jersey fabric of 18.9 to 19.9 micron. It has a weight of 145gsm, which is perfect for both winter and summer use. The garments are manufactured in Australia by OCC Apparel in Sydney, which is experienced in manufacturing Merino wool active wear and underwear. OCC’s Merino wool fabrics comply with Woolmark specifications and are machine washable. Sleepy Merino was launched in Inverell, in conjunction with the local Eat Drink Live New England Festival in November. “We held a fashion parade at a Wine and Canapes event, and a market stall. Despite the tough times in our region, the local community has been very supportive of the new business, and lots of pyjamas were purchased for Christmas presents,” Julie said. The brand’s garments are all available to purchase online at sleepymerino.com.au, reaching international as well as Australian markets. “Our Aussie made Merino wool pyjamas are proving popular in Britain, and one lady is going to hike across USA with our Local Inverell girls modelling Sleepy Merino’s flutter sleeve pyjama top and sleep shorts on sleep shirt,” Julie said. Julie Bird’s property, which in the photo is showing the effect of a bit of recent and very welcome rain. The brand is also aligned with the T he drought has hit rural Australia badly, very badly – and Inverell in northern NSW has been suffering as close their doors in our town, including the big end of town.” #buyfromthebush, ‘Buy Regional’ and ‘Go Country for Christmas’ campaigns – see opposite page. terribly as anywhere. The area has also If ever there was a time or motivation for those endured bushfires this summer. in the bush to consider business diversification “These initiatives are really helping regional then now is that time. “Like many farmers, businesses to stay afloat and helping this “Times are tough in the bush here in NSW we have had to think outside the square for farming family keep feeding stock.” – we are in the grip of the worst drought additional income options,” Julie said. in living memory,” says local Merino Last month, Sleepy Merino travelled woolgrower Julie Bird. Julie started to investigate other enterprise to Brisbane with its full range to sell at opportunities. She had always loved wearing the MindBodySpirit Festival, Australia’s Julie’s family runs Merino sheep producing Merino wool, such as active wear, knits and largest health and wellbeing event. Later 17-18 micron wool, on 2,000 hectares of mostly underwear, but she couldn't easily source adult this month they will be attending the native pasture, shrubs and trees. Due to the Merino sleepwear or pyjamas. Seeing a gap in MindBodySpirit Festival at Darling Harbour drought, the family has had to destock many the market, she decided to set up a new apparel in Sydney (12-15 March). Sleepy Merino also of its livestock. brand – and so Sleepy Merino was born. sells at markets local to Inverell. “But it is not only the farmers being affected “Sleepy Merino builds on my passion for MORE INFORMATION by the drought. We have had many businesses Merino wool, and pyjamas are a fantastic use www.sleepymerino.com.au
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