ISSUE 83 JUNE 2020 - STRENGTHENING WOOL'S ECO-CREDENTIALS - Australian Wool ...
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ISSUE 83 JUNE 2020 PROFIT FROM WOOL INNOVATION www.wool.com 09 STRENGTHENING WOOL'S 32 REBUILDING AFTER SCHOOL MERINO 66 ECO-CREDENTIALS NATURAL DISASTERS WETHER CHALLENGE
04 AWI’S RESPONSE 50 FLYSTRIKE TO CORONAVIRUS RD&E UPDATE EDITOR Richard Smith E richard.smith@wool.com CONTRIBUTING WRITER OFF-FARM ON-FARM Lisa Griplas E lisa.griplas@wool.com 3 Review of Performance 28 Case study: Andrew Scanlon, WA Australian Wool Innovation Limited 3 Review of WoolPoll 29 Next generation on the horizon A L6, 68 Harrington St, The Rocks, Sydney NSW 2000 3 Wool industry long term plan 30 Kangaroo Island bounces back GPO Box 4177, Sydney NSW 2001 4 CEO: AWI’s response to coronavirus 31 Drought resources from AWI P 02 8295 3100 E info@wool.com W wool.com 6 Boosting immune system with sleep 32 Back to Business webinars AWI Helpline 1800 070 099 7 Science backs sleeping in wool 33 Transitioning from containment SUBSCRIPTION Beyond the Bale is available free. 8 All go for Merineo 34 Don’t be a Basil Fawlty! To subscribe contact AWI 9 Wool biodegrades in seawater 36 Better management with Ag360 P 02 8295 3100 E info@wool.com 10 Wool protects skin from flames 38 Coronavirus and woolgrowers Beyond the Bale is published by Australian Wool Innovation Ltd (AWI), a company 12 Aclima’s award-winning base-layers 39 Coronavirus and shearing funded by Australian woolgrowers and the Australian Government. AWI’s goal is to help 13 Norwegian outdoor brand Ulvang 40 Don Boyle’s new shearing shed increase the demand for wool by actively 42 Brookton (WA) shearing camp selling Australian wool and its attributes 14 Instagram influencer marketing in US through investments in marketing, innovation 15 Ryan Robinson: Living on the edge 43 Conargo (NSW) shearing school and R&D – from farm to fashion and interiors. 16 Bush shirts provide extra income 44 Shearer training goes online COPYRIGHT 17 Home comfort with EMU Australia 45 Fall armyworm marches south Material in Beyond the Bale is copyright. Reproduction of the material is encouraged. 18 Special offer from Woolstar 46 Merino Lifetime Productivity However prior permission must be obtained from the Editor. 18 Online wool weaving tutorial 48 World’s oldest frozen semen DISCLAIMER 19 Shaun the Sheep marketing results 49 AWI’s new flystrike strategy To the extent permitted by law, Australian 50 Flystrike RD&E update 20 Odour resistant properties of wool Wool Innovation Ltd excludes all liability for loss or damage arising from the use of, 21 Zegna Baruffa Lane Borgosesia 52 Breeding breech strike resistance or reliance on, the information contained in this publication. 22 Neeman's wool shoes in India 54 New Visual Sheep Scores booklet The Woolmark symbol is a certification mark registered in many countries. 23 Woolmark Learning Centre 55 New lamb marking training guide © 2020 Australian Wool Innovation Ltd. All 24 Naturally Inspiring seminars 56 Lice treatment products rights reserved. 25 Woolmark Performance Challenge 57 Lice biosecurity: coping with strays ADVERTISING SALES Steve Luxford, Pulse Hub Pty Ltd 26 Belgium student’s ‘Rave New World’ 58 ParaBoss regional reminders P 0429 699 553 E steve.luxford@pulsehub.com.au 27 Bradford Textile Society Awards 59 Taking a closer look at Chlamydia Advertising is subject to terms and conditions published on the ratecard, which is available 60 RAMping Up Repro goes online from Pulse Hub. 61 Best bait rate for wild dogs ISSN 61 Funding for 44km fence near Walcha 1447-9680 AWI INVESTMENT STRATEGIES Sheep Production, 62 Wild dogs, foxes and 1080 FRONT COVER Marketing Consultation This photo was taken by Melise Coleman Science & Technology 64 Muzzles for working dog safety (www.melisecoleman.com) of Jodie Green at Processing Innovation ‘Aloeburn’ at Boree Creek in NSW. The photo Traceability 65 Best practice wild dog control at Paroo & Education Extension captures the mood of the moment and also the 66 NSW School Merino Wether Challenge caring bond between farmer and animal. “This photo wasn’t set up, it’s just a poddy lamb who 69 AWI Graduate Training Program knew exactly what time it was, who meets her feedback@wool.com humans each day at the yards,” Melise said. 70 WoolQ Market launched Melise has uploaded this photo on Instagram, WOOL.COM 71 WoolQ eSpeci proves popular saying: “Farming is not a job, it’s a way of life. To subscribe to the free monthly AWI e-newsletter 72 Supply chain update Thank a farmer, it might be just what they need for woolgrowers, and the weekly wool market review to get through their day, and because they.. so.. e-newsletter, visit www.wool.com/subscribe 73 AWI's The Yarn podcast so.. bloody.. deserve.. it. This love exists on Aussie farms, and I wanted you to see it.” 74 EMI weakens amidst coronavirus facebook.com/AustralianWoolInnovation 75 Readers’ photos This magazine is printed on PEFC (Programme for the Endorsement of instagram/BeyondTheBale WOOLMARK.COM Forest Certification) paper stock. twitter.com/woolinnovation facebook.com/TheWoolmarkCompany youtube.com/AWIWoolProduction instagram.com/TheWoolmarkCompany wool.com/podcast twitter.com/woolmark View Beyond the Bale online at BtB http://beyondthebale.wool.com youtube.com/TheWoolmarkCompany GD3813
UPFRONT 3 REVIEW OF PERFORMANCE RECOMMENDATIONS AWI’S PROGRESS OF IMPLEMENTATION As part of AWI’s three-year business cycle, an independent THEME IMPLEMENTATION PROGRESS review of performance (ROP) of AWI is routinely undertaken 100%* to assess the company’s performance. The latest ROP was CONSTITUTION undertaken by Ernst & Young (EY) for the period 2015-2018. 24 out of 24 recommendations complete. EY’s report, which was published in July 2018, included 82 recommendations. 98.2%* GOVERNANCE In September 2018, AWI launched its ROP 21 out of 23 recommendations complete. Implementation Portal at rop.wool.com to provide 100%* detailed and up to date information to woolgrowers MONITORING EVALUATION about the progress made by AWI in implementing the 82 & REPORTING recommendations. Displayed right is a summary of the 16 out of 16 recommendations complete. overall progress, and the progress across each of the 100%* seven themes of the recommendations. COLLABORATION 3 out of 3 recommendations complete. Further information is available at rop.wool.com 97.9%* PEOPLE & CULTURE 99% OVERALL AWI POSITION 6 out of 7 recommendations complete. CONSULTATION 4 out of 5 recommendations complete. 95%* Agree/ Industry IMPLEMENTATION agree (81) 100%* ROP RECOMMENDATIONS PROGRESS For Shareholder & IMPLEMENTATION Consideration (1) 4 out of 4 recommendations complete. (as at 27 April 2020) * Percentage figure is calculated on the cumulative completion rate within each theme. Remaining recommendations at various completion stages. To view individual recommendation progress rates, visit rop.wool.com REVIEW OF WOOLPOLL NEXT GEN CONTRIBUTE AWI welcomed the announcement in April TO LONG-TERM PLAN by the Department of Agriculture, Water and the Environment to review WoolPoll, as More than fifty wool industry leaders met an opportunity for woolgrowers to provide (online) on 30 April to chart the Australian their ideas to improve how WoolPoll is wool industry’s 10-year strategic plan. conducted. WoolPoll is the three-yearly poll A through which wool levy payers vote on their WI’s Woolgrower Consultation Group (WCG) – which is a preferred rate of wool levy. broad-based group that includes representatives of national, state and regional woolgrower groups and the Department of Agriculture, Water and the Environment – was joined at T he Department of Agriculture, Water and the Environment issued a discussion paper in April, in which it stated: “This review will examine whether WoolPoll remains an appropriate and the meeting by 21 representatives of the wool industry’s ‘next generation’ from across Australia who have been identified as future leaders by WCG members. contemporary process that provides government with assurance The development of a strategic long-term vision for the wool about what wool levy payers want their levy rate to be. The review industry was one of the recommendations from the 2018 Review will make recommendations to the department, AWI and the wool of Performance. AWI is facilitating the development of the 10-year industry about how to optimise the WoolPoll mechanism.” industry plan, while the WCG is the principal oversight body for The Department invited all wool levy payers and interested wool the project. industry stakeholders to contribute their perspectives by 29 May. “AWI is proud to listen to and work with representatives across The Department stated it will review all the responses and written the length and breadth of the wool industry,” said AWI CEO Stuart submissions and that it expects to hold targeted meetings (using McCullough. The outcomes from the meeting will contribute phone and video) in June and will use these to follow up on key to the development of a series of five discussion papers to be issues raised in submissions as required. provided to WCG members for debate and feedback. Further The Department will outline the review’s findings and any consultation with wider industry stakeholders will occur recommendations in a report, which it expects to publish in throughout the plan’s development process, with delivery of the September 2020. strategy expected in late 2020. The Department is reviewing WoolPoll to deliver on a MORE INFORMATION recommendation made in the 2018 Review of Performance. www.wool.com/2030
4 UPFRONT AWI’S RESPONSE TO THE IMPACT OF CORONAVIRUS Stuart McCullough Chief Executive Officer Australian Wool Innovation The coronavirus pandemic is both a terrible health crisis and a major economic shock to the world economy. Here I provide an important update on how AWI has adapted to these challenging times and is getting on with its business of R&D and marketing for the benefit of Australian woolgrowers. AWI REMAINS MARKETS TAKE see if it can recover as quickly as it did coming out of the GFC. Unfortunately, two of our OPEN FOR BUSINESS A BIG HIT biggest markets, the UK and Italy, have been Throughout the global coronavirus The global coronavirus pandemic affects the badly hit by the virus and each had to impose pandemic, AWI is continuing to work for wool industry in many ways, but the way that severe lockdowns which has badly reduced woolgrowers to ensure the sustainability of it affects most profoundly is in the reduced consumer spending there. our industry and the profitability for your purchasing of garments by consumers. Due to enterprises. social distancing and lockdowns in so many MARKETING countries, people have simply been unable to PROJECTS REVIEWED Your interests and future remain the focus get to stores to buy garments. Furthermore, of all AWI staff in Australia and across AWI must be smart about when, where, and global economies have been badly shaken the world. They all continue to work hard indeed whether it is prudent to actually and many people do not have the spending for you, albeit currently from home for spend woolgrower funds – and this is power they once had. Fiscal concerns and most them. We are an agile company and especially the case with our marketing potential unemployment weigh heavily on have the digital support infrastructure activities at the moment. Given the drop- many consumers. Make no mistake, retail sales and frameworks to ensure productivity off in consumer spending across the globe, have been hit very hard indeed and it looks while staff work remotely. Regular internal I asked our marketing teams at the start of like overall consumer demand for wool will be meetings and communication now occur March to review all our current marketing weak for at least the next four months or so. online, keeping everyone engaged and campaigns and collaborations, and stop any supported. On the bright side, some governments, such as expenditure on projects that rely on face to the UK government, have been very proactive face shopping or were no longer expected to Although most of our offices around in trying to support business and protect jobs produce a return on investment. There is no the world, including our Sydney office, which will help people’s on-going capacity point spending money marketing a product currently remain closed and face to face to consume beyond basic needs. It was also if consumers cannot buy it. Those marketing meetings are suspended, rest assured that fortunate the pandemic hit during the spring funds are better held back and spent at a later the company remains very much open for of our all-important northern hemisphere time when it is more likely an investment business. All staff can still be contacted via markets rather than the high turnover will yield results. Once we see a market email, phone and our website. Our usual autumn/winter seasons for wool. recovering, we will deploy the marketing AWI Helpline number for woolgrowers is funds that we held back as quickly as we can also still available during business hours on The pandemic has impacted some countries and try to stimulate demand. 1800 070 099. more than others. At AWI, we are looking to ensure that we identify markets and sectors There is a lot of uncertainty about the Woolgrowers can stay up to date on AWI’s that will recover quickly and drive demand market outlook at the moment and we don’t activities and market intelligence via as we come through this unprecedented want to invest woolgrowers’ funds if we have our regular e-newsletters (subscribe at disruption. I think China in particular has got imperfect information. We have therefore www.wool.com/subscribe), our recently the potential to recover most quickly which set up a special business intelligence unit revamped website wool.com, The Yarn would be great news due to the size of its dedicated to collecting information to help podcast, and our various social media economy and its importance for Australian us during this unique global situation. The channels including Twitter and our newly wool as both a big consuming and processing unit has been reaching out to AWI staff launched Facebook channel. AWI’s grower market. Other markets about which I across the world who have been focused networks in each state also very much am hopeful are Germany and the Nordic during the past two months on collecting the continue to operate – their website and countries which seem to have weathered the best intelligence they can get on markets and contact details are available at www.wool. virus better than many. While the US has been businesses. This will enable us in due course com/networks. badly hit by the virus, it will be interesting to to begin releasing marketing funds again
UPFRONT 5 in the most effective manner – at the right While rural areas thankfully do not seem to the year – these include Milano Unica (high end time, in the right locations, with solvent have been directly affected by coronavirus textile and fashion) in Milan and Première Vision business partners, in optimum retail sectors infections as much as metropolitan areas, (woven fabrics and wovenwear) in Paris. We will – but only when there has been a thorough it is important that people remain vigilant. be ready to resume our presence at trade shows evaluation of the merit. On pages 38, we provide information for once they open again, but in the meantime have woolgrowers on how to help ensure that their been working on digital alternatives. ADAPTED MARKETING farming operations, staff and contractors, IN THE SHORT TERM family and friends are as protected as possible. LOOKING TO THE When the full impact of the coronavirus Wool auction rooms posed a challenge in terms FUTURE pandemic first hit in March, we switched our of managing social distancing but they have I hope you have all been safe and well during focus in the short term to retailers and brands remained open. During this period, we have these unprecedented times and remain so. that have proven digital retail platforms, worked hard with industry on the WoolQ The situation changes daily and we are all because online purchasing has not been hit as platform to offer WoolQ Market (an online continually working to adapt to the new hard as brick and mortar stores. While so many auction for the sale of wool) as a contingency normal. 2020 will be a tough year for everyone, people have been isolated at home, online to the open cry auctions. Successful trials of markets and woolgrowers. Despite the shopping and social media has been key to our the WoolQ Market auction system took place coronavirus pandemic being a major shock to promotion and messaging to sell product. with brokers and buyers in April and WoolQ key macroeconomies, I am quite confident that began conducting regular weekly auctions the wool industry and woolgrowers are more Our marketing teams have worked hard at the end of that month (see page 70). It has than robust enough to get through the crisis. to tap into what people are likely to purchase online while at home and identify always been WoolQ’s aim to complement all the strengths of the existing open cry Although the EMI has dropped, I am opportunities for wool. We have tried to be in auction system at the same time as delivering encouraged as to how well the wool market step with the mood of consumers and have additional services, rather than a replacement. has held up compared to other markets during been highlighting wool’s health and wellness these extraordinary times. There are still benefits, its suitability for comfort in the home and whilst exercising, its benefits for SUPPORT wool processors buying our raw wool and I rest and sleep, and hand knitting for keeping TO THE TRADE am sure they believe, like me, that there is decent underlying demand for the premium busy and easing anxiety. We have also been Much of our off-farm textile innovation R&D and natural qualities of our fibre along the promoting wool’s natural eco-credentials. projects across the world continue as normal supply chain right through to consumers. under close monitoring. However, many of Furthermore, the positive relationships ON-FARM: R&D our trade and designer partners have been AWI has built along the supply chain during CONTINUES, badly affected by the global lockdowns and we the past decade will help ensure a positive EXTENSION AND are doing what we can to support them. For outcome for Australian wool in the future. SELLING TURNS DIGITAL instance, the expertise of our global technical Most of our on-farm R&D projects continue team is being promoted to our partners, and RECOVERING as normal and we closely monitor their communications have been sent to Woolmark FROM DROUGHT licensees offering our support in supply chain progress and budgets. However, during the management, staff education and training. AND BUSHFIRE past three months, many face to face industry While there has been much focus by events and activities for woolgrowers have Trade education is an important part of what the business on the effects of the global had to be postponed or cancelled due to AWI does. While we have had to cancel face to coronavirus pandemic, I am still deeply government social distancing guidelines. AWI face education workshops, we are fortunate concerned with the circumstances of the many has responded quickly and made many of its to have previously converted many of our woolgrowers and rural communities that have own events available online instead. Examples training resources into a digital format and been struggling from the effects of ongoing include the Back to Business series of 12 launched our online Woolmark Learning drought conditions and then bushfires. webinars (see page 32) that were originally Centre (see page 23). This has enabled us to scheduled as workshops throughout bushfire easily provide access to comprehensive online A wetter start to 2020 has eased the severity of and drought impacted regions. Another educational resources for all levels, from short-term rainfall deficiencies over much of example is AWI’s popular RAMping Up Repro student to professional, as an alternative to our eastern Australia. However, the lack of rainfall workshop (see page 61) that was held online usual face to face training. over an extended period was so severe that as a webinar in early April. All these webinars recovery will be a slow process. Furthermore, are recorded and made available to be viewed With so many students across the while many parts of the country have recently free at any time by woolgrowers wherever world studying at home, we have sent received some reasonable falls of rain, there they are in the country. Once social distancing communications to all our education are areas that have not been so lucky. measures have been relaxed in Australia, AWI databases (students and teachers) highlighting will resume its attendance at wool industry the digital learning opportunities available via Whether you are still suffering or events nationwide. our online education platforms including the recovering from drought and/or bushfire, Woolmark Learning Centre, Learn About Wool, I urge you take advantage of AWI The decision by the Federal Government to Wool Performance Challenge, Wool4School resources. Refer to our website at wool. allow shearing to continue under strict health and Woolmark.com websites. For younger com/droughtresources and www.wool.com/ and hygiene protocols was a great result for children at home, we have been publicising the bushfires for further information. the industry. AWI worked closely with other Shaun the Sheep online games for children at organisations to push the case. However, Supernaturalwool.com (see page 19). we have suspended our face to face in-shed shearer and wool handler training during International trade shows at which we would the past two months, but as an alternative have normally exhibited during the coming have recorded and rolled out a series of well- few months have been postponed until later in received online training videos (see page 44).
6 OFF FARM BOOSTING YOUR IMMUNE SYSTEM WITH SLEEP MiniJumbuk’s wool quilts incorporate Airlight TechnologyTM which helps regulate sleeping temperature. Leading Australian wool bedding brand and Woolmark licensee MiniJumbuk is reminding consumers that a good night’s sleep strengthens the immune system and is therefore integral to building a good defence against colds and the flu. W e all know that when we have a good night’s sleep it makes us feel and function better during the day, but did A study conducted by The University of California2 found evidence that indicated poor sleep was the number one factor in with wool is the best way to guarantee a great night’s sleep. By simply choosing to sleep in, on and under wool, we believe that you will you know sleep is integral in building your determining whether someone would get sick achieve a deeper, more restful sleep. immune system too? Studies1 have shown after being exposed to the cold virus. “Ultimately, this can help you to build your that people who get poor quality sleep are The study showed subjects who slept less immune system.” more prone to catching colds and flu viruses. than six hours a night were 4.2 times more Mr Turner says the advantages of sleeping With that in mind, an easy way for all of us likely to catch a cold compared to those who with wool stem from the fibre’s two unique to increase our immune system and health is got more than seven hours of sleep - see properties: its moisture absorption abilities graphics below. through improving the quality of our sleep and its dynamic thermal capacities. each night. WOOL AND IMPROVED “Wool is able to absorb up to about 30% of SLEEP AND THE SLEEP QUALITY its own weight in moisture, while remaining dry to the touch. As you sleep with wool, any IMMUNE SYSTEM MiniJumbuk Managing Director Darren perspiration is drawn away from the skin, Turner says that through its unique, The science shows that while you sleep, your natural properties, wool can assist people to helping to maintain a consistent level of immune system produces proteins called improve their sleep quality and gain a better humidity in your bed. Your skin remains dry, cytokines, a specific type of protein that night’s sleep. improving your comfort as you sleep. helps fight against colds, flu viruses and other “At MiniJumbuk, we consider that sleeping “Furthermore, by constantly absorbing and infections to keep you healthy. releasing water vapour, wool acts as a buffer effectively helping to minimise changes in body temperature.” MINIJUMBUK’S 45 YEARS WITH WOOL MiniJumbuk was established in 1975 in the country town of Naracoorte in South Australia by local sheep shearer Don Wray. Today, MiniJumbuk is still proudly based in Naracoorte and has grown to become a global leader in the design and manufacture of premium wool bedding products. The company specialises in wool quilts, mattress toppers and pillows. Its products are sold in the major department stores and homewares retailers in Australia, such as Myer, David Jones and Adairs, as well as online. “It’s our attention to detail and quality that has given us the reputation we have today. Our staff have a genuine commitment to
OFF 7 FARM SCIENCE BACKS providing excellent customer service and top quality products that we are truly proud of,” Mr Turner said. “Each of our wool quilts incorporate Airlight TechnologyTM that provides superior insulating properties while allowing for the SLEEPING IN WOOL creation of lighter, more comfortable quilts The results of scientific studies funded by AWI during the that perfectly regulate sleeping temperature. past few years have shown that a better night’s sleep is “MiniJumbuk was founded on wool, and achieved when sleeping wearing wool. the fibre continues to be the focus of the company. We source the best possible Australian wool – much of it from the local area. I believe that MiniJumbuk being based in a small regional town in the heart of Australia’s prime wool-growing areas reduced time plays a big part in the brand. Customers like to fall sleep authenticity, they like traceability.” References: 1 Sleep Health Foundation, Sleep to Boost Your Immunity, www.sleephealthfoundation.org.au, 13/3/20 2 University of California San Francisco, Short Sleepers Are Four Times More Likely to Catch a Cold, www.ucsf.edu, 31/8/15 less fragmented sleep MORE INFORMATION www.minijumbuk.com.au less wakefullness Sleeping in wool sleepwear has been scientifically proven to improve your sleep. PHOTO: andresr D uring the past few years, scientific studies funded by AWI have tested the aged ≥65 years (12 minutes in wool, 27 minutes in cotton and 22 minutes in 40% DISCOUNT sleep of both older and younger adults and found that wearing wool is conducive to polyester). • Sleeping in wool resulted in less FOR READERS OF restful sleep, attributed to the properties of fragmented sleep compared to sleeping wool fibres that keep the body in the 'thermal in other fabrics, especially between wool BEYOND THE BALE comfort zone'. and polyester sleepwear. “The great value of these research • Sleeping in wool resulted in less MiniJumbuk is offering Beyond the investments on behalf of Australian wakefulness for poor sleepers after sleep Bale readers a 40% discount on all its woolgrowers is that we are now building onset, compared to sleeping in cotton. full priced products. The offer closes a very solid and contemporary body of Overall, wool performed better than cotton on 31st August 2020. You can order scientific evidence which supports claims and polyester for the majority of the 11 online or by phone. that wool is beneficial to a good night’s sleep, sleep quality parameters, while neither which should help build consumer demand cotton nor polyester was better than wool for wool,” said AWI's Program Manager for any parameter. for Fibre Advocacy and Eco Credentials, The results of a previous AWI-funded ONLINE Angus Ireland. study, also undertaken by the University of Sydney, but this time focusing on healthy The results of the most recent AWI-funded younger adults, were also published in 1. Visit www.minijumbuk.com.au study, focusing on older adults, were Nature and Science of Sleep, in 2016. 2. Select your product published last year in the journal Nature and Science of Sleep. The study by the University Seventeen healthy young adults underwent 3. Proceed to checkout nine nights of polysomnography testing of Sydney compared the effect on sleep 4. Enter the discount code BTB40 and it was found that the time it took to quality of wearing single jersey Merino wool, 5. Enter billing and shipping details cotton and polyester sleepwear, in warm fall asleep was significantly shortened 6. Complete purchase conditions (30ºC and 50% humidity) for when sleeping in superfine Merino wool, participants aged 50-70 years old. with trends of increased total sleep time and sleep efficiency compared to BY PHONE In older adults with no health concerns, cotton sleepwear. sleep disturbances are often linked to the “While these two studies have shown thermal environment that is vital for sleep 1. Call 1800 088 834 and wool sleepwear promotes better sleep, maintenance. Sleeping outside the optimum quote discount code BTB40 particularly in older adults and poor temperature range can negatively impact 2. Arrange payment by credit sleepers, another AWI-funded study that the sleep of older adults, as they are more is under way might also identify benefits card or bank transfer vulnerable to heat stress. of sleeping in wool for menopausal women The key findings were: who often experience hot flashes and disturbed sleep. Future studies might also All enquires should be directed to • Sleeping in wool reduced the time taken identify benefits for other people, such as Minijumbuk via info@minijumbuk. to get to sleep compared with sleeping in shift workers who have disrupted circadian com.au or phone 1800 088 834. cotton and polyester for older participants rhythm,” Angus added.
8 OFF FARM Recently launched compared to other products. I put this down singlets from Merineo to wool’s inherent benefits supported by are made from Australian medical research to say babies sleep better in superfine Merino wool. wool, combined with the swaddling design of the sleeping bag. Midwives all say newborns settle better if swaddled.” Since the launch of the first Merineo swaddle, the brand’s product range has evolved to now include a ‘wingless Merineo’ basic sleeping bag for newborns, a sleeping bag (arms in or out) for older babies, and a sleeping bag for toddlers. “The swaddle and sleeping bags for babies (which are suitable for infants under six months) have been formally acknowledged by the International Hip Dysplasia Institute as ‘hip-healthy’,” Claire said. “I have also embarked on a new strategy to sell to obstetricians who in turn gift to their babies.” All the products are designed and ALL GO FOR manufactured in Australia, are machine washable and are available in a range of colours and trims. MERINEO In July 2018, the Merineo newborn swaddling bag was displayed at Italy’s main textile trade fair, Milano Unica. “Merineo was selected for display at Milano Unica because of its innovative use of mesh style fabric, a highly breathable knit, often used for activewear as a next-to-skin A childhood on the family wool-growing property was garment,” Claire said. “Closer to home, in inspiration for Claire Hausler to create the initial Merineo Bendigo last year, I was honoured that swaddle for newborns, made from Australian superfine Merino Merineo was featured in the Australian Sheep and Wool Show fashion parade, wool. Three years later, the Merineo brand has grown to now thanks to AWI.” produce a range of baby sleeping bags and has also recently launched a new range of singlets. The latest development from Merineo was the launch in February of a range of singlets for children. Available in sizes 000 M erineo founder Claire Hausler grew up premium Merino wool and hopefully to 7 and machine washable, they are also on her parents’ wool-growing property become repeat users of the fibre, ultimately made in Australia from 100% superfine ‘Murrumbereck’ in Minhamite, western supporting the Australian wool industry.” Merino wool, in a ‘cool mesh’ fabric and are Victoria, and has therefore always known luxuriously soft. and been passionate about the natural An early accomplishment for Claire’s business was when she teamed up with “When we designed these singlets we wanted benefits of superfine Merino wool. the Knox Private Hospital in Melbourne something long-wearing because we know In 2016 when she couldn’t find suitable to supply Merineo newborn sleep swaddle how quickly children grow out of their Merino sleepwear for her and her husband’s bags (with the hospital’s branding) to its clothing, particularly newborns. Our singlets newborn son, Jack, she saw a gap in the newborn babies. are slightly longer than other singlets on Australian market for wool swaddles the mainstream market and ours are made (sleeping bags for newborns). After further “I contacted the hospital and presented with a super stretchy fabric, designed to fit research and development, Claire devised the idea; they liked it because of the health comfortably around the chest and waist Merineo – a world-first design embracing benefits of wool. Part of the work with the to suit the growing baby, achieving longer the traditional swaddling method and the hospital involved running a pilot program wear,” Claire said. modern sleeping bag. where we tested the usability of the Merineo on newborn babies,” Claire said. More new childrenswear will be launched Knowing babies sleep better in superfine later this year. Merino wool (due to its softness, “It was enormously rewarding when the breathability, thermal qualities and majority of parents responding to the survey MORE INFORMATION elasticity), Claire sourced 17.5 micron Merino said their baby settled better in a Merineo www.merineo.com wool from a mill to which the family farm supplies. And so, Merineo – a play on the The Merineo swaddling bag is made from Australian superfine words Merino and Neonate – was born. Merino wool and designed to help parents settle their baby “My parents, Ken and Marjorie Hausler and quickly and easily in a natural, three brothers Alan, Stephen and Glenn are breathable fabric. all woolgrowers,” said Claire. “By creating the PHOTO: Bianca Dickinson of Merineo brand, I want parents to experience the_dickinson_klan
OFF 9 FARM WOOL READILY biodegrade to a high degree, as does the cellulose-based viscose rayon. Synthetic fibres show little or no biodegradation,” Angus said. BIODEGRADES The treatment that makes wool machine- washable (the application of a thin polyamide film to the fibre surfaces), actually caused the wool to biodegrade more rapidly than IN MARINE ENVIRONMENTS untreated wool. The scientists believe this is probably because the treatment process removes some of the fibre’s cuticle (its armour Research funded by AWI has shown that machine-washable plating), rendering it more susceptible to wool fibres as well as untreated wool fibres readily biodegrade microbial degradation. It is important to note that the polyamide resin used in the machine- in the marine environment, in contrast to synthetic fibres that wash treatment for wool is very different do not. The research found no evidence to support the idea that from common commercial polyamides. the polyamide resin used as part of the machine-washable wool “Significantly, the scientists did not detect treatment forms microplastic pollution. any formation of microplastic polyamide fragments resulting from the biodegradation of machine-washable wool,” Angus said. pollution,” said AWI's Program Manager for Fibre Advocacy and Eco Credentials, Based on observations from soil Angus Ireland. biodegradation, the scientists expect that over a relatively short time wool will biodegrade “It had been suggested that the commonly completely in the marine environment. The used polyamide resin (Hercosett) on machine- rate of biodegradation for untreated wool washable wool, which prevents the wool is likely to increase to be similar to that of felting, might break into fragments as the machine-washable wool once its cuticle is wool fibre degrades. It was important that broken down. this suggestion be examined and refuted scientifically.” ANOTHER STRING IN RESEARCH PROCESS WOOL’S BOW Scientists from AgResearch undertook The results of the new study complement the study using a method based on an previous AWI-funded research into established standard for measuring marine microplastic pollution from textiles, which biodegradation. Residues were examined recommends an increased use of natural non- using scanning electron microscopy synthetic materials, such as wool, in global (SEM) and energy-dispersive X-ray textile markets. spectroscopy (EDX). “This is yet another study that helps The samples used in the study were sourced demonstrate the eco-credentials of natural from comparable lightweight base-layer fibres in a world where there is increasing fabrics, each made from the six fibre types concern about the effect on the environment Residues from machine-washable wool (top) and being studied: of synthetic textiles,” Angus said. polyester (bottom). The degradation of wool is clear, as is the lack of degradation of the synthetic • two types of Merino wool: machine It is part of a larger body of work by AWI fibres. towards better accounting for the use phase washable wool and untreated wool in Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) of apparel. • viscose rayon, which is made of cellulose I t is estimated that 0.6-1.7 million tons of microfibres are released into the oceans every year. An important source of this derived from plant sources such as wood pulp “Natural fibres such as wool readily biodegrade and consequently don't amass in • three synthetic fibres: polyester, nylon (a the environment. This important difference pollution is fibre shedding during the polyamide) and polypropylene. between natural and synthetic fibres needs laundering of apparel. The fabrics had been deconstructed to be accounted for in Life Cycle Assessment This seemingly ubiquitous contamination of (shredded) to remove any possible for the LCA to be credible and scientifically the environment with fibres and fragments interference from the way the fabrics were defensible,” Angus added. from textiles, especially from synthetic fibres, structured. Furthermore, the fabrics had been Table 1: Relative biodegradation of fibre types is of growing concern amongst brands and washed repeatedly before testing, to simulate consumers. a partial garment lifetime. Relative Fibre type biodegradation Previous studies have already shown that The average biodegradation of three samples wool biodegrades in the natural marine for each of the six fibre types was measured Control (paper pulp) 100 environment, which is good news for the wool relative to a ‘positive control’ (ie a sample Untreated wool 20.3 industry and the planet. However, the aim of known to biodegrade readily). In this study, Machine-washable this new study, undertaken by AgResearch the positive control was kraft paper pulp. 67.3 wool and funded by AWI, was to measure the rate of biodegradation (in the marine RESEARCH RESULTS Viscose rayon 64.5 environment) of wool relative to competing Table 1 (right) provides the amount of Polyester 6.3 fibres, and study the residues produced. biodegradation of the six fibre types during the 90-day trial period, expressed relative to Nylon 0.8 “One of the main objectives was also to the ‘positive control’. disprove the idea that machine-washable Polypropylene 1.8 wool might create a form of microplastic “The study shows that both types of wool
10 OFF FARM Considerably more severe skin injuries to military personnel in the Middle East (where battle techniques such as improvised explosive devices were used) occurred when synthetic base-layers were worn, compared to wool base-layers, as synthetic base-layers can melt onto the skin at high temperatures. PHOTO: Frank Rossoto Stocktrek WOOL Some personnel choose cotton because it is the cheaper alternative and perceived as being a cooler option. However, there is the risk of large amounts of sweat/moisture PROTECTS SKIN building up in a cotton garment when worn in a layered system, which at high heat intensities increases radiant heat transfer and can lead to steam burns and increased FROM FLAMES levels of stress. There’s also a trend for personnel to choose synthetic ‘moisture management’ (wicking) sportswear garments. The key concern with STUDY PROVES SUITABILITY FOR synthetic fibres (even flame-retardant ones) is that, when they are exposed to flame or MILITARY AND FIRE FIGHTERS extreme heat, they melt and drip which can result in molten polymer coming into contact with the wearer’s skin and burning it. AWI has funded a new scientific study into the fire resistance “In contrast, wool fibres are known to have of various fabrics used as base-layer garments for military a natural resistance to burning, even when and first responder personnel such as firefighters. The exposed to an ignition source for long study concluded that the wool and wool rich fabrics in the periods. This is due to wool having a high ignition temperature, high limiting oxygen study performed the best, while the 100% synthetic fabrics index and its self-extinguishing behaviour,” (polypropylene and polyester fabrics) performed the worst Angus said. due to their propensity to melt and damage the skin. “Wool fibres are known to have a natural resistance to burning, even F rom the Battle of Waterloo to the Korean The increased demand has in part been when exposed to an ignition source for War, wool’s inherent ability to protect the driven by the incidence of injuries to military long periods.” wearer from hostile environments, including personnel in the Middle East, where battle Angus Ireland, AWI extreme cold and fire, made it the military’s techniques such as improvised explosive fibre of choice for outer layer garments. devices (IEDs) were used. Considerably more Nowadays, the military and first-responders severe skin injuries occurred when synthetic THE NEW STUDY are looking to base-layer wool garments due base-layers were worn, as they can melt onto AWI has funded a new scientific study, to the health and safety benefits offered by the skin at high temperatures. undertaken by AgResearch, to test the fire this ‘last line of defence’. resistance of nine fabrics (see Table 1) used A review in 2017 by AgResearch of base-layer as base-layer garments for military and first “This growing market demand for wool undergarments worn by the military, fire responder personnel. base-layer garments relates to the already service and police first responders revealed well-researched benefits of superfine Merino that, worryingly, there are often no required To enable a realistic assessment of the wool, including its softness next to the skin, specifications or test method standards protection offered by the base-layer moisture management, breathability – and relating to these important protective garments, a new ‘skin simulant’ test fire resistance,” said AWI's Program Manager garments. This results in cotton or synthetic method was designed using fresh pig skin. for Fibre Advocacy and Eco Credentials, base-layers often being chosen by some The test method involved two techniques Angus Ireland. military and emergency service personnel. to simulate the skin’s exposure to, firstly, a
OFF 11 FARM naked flame ignition source and, secondly, Figure 1: Naked flame impacts on exposed skin an accelerant fuelled threat (such as an The Merino wool blend covered skin (B) is very similar to the undamaged control (A), IED or petrol bomb). whilst the military polyester (C) and polypropylene (D) covered skin clearly both have Once cooled, the most visibly damaged damage as evidenced by the splitting of the upper layer (epidermis), loss of voids and area of skin for each test was sampled discoloration of tissue below. using an 8mm biopsy punch and examined by AgResearch using a microscope. The results showed that the worst performing fabric was the polypropylene fabric closely followed by the three UK uniform polyester fabrics. The fabric that performed best overall was the Zirpro®-treated wool (100%) fabric which showed no apparent differences compared to the undamaged control samples (see A and B in Figure 2), in both the naked flame and accelerant tests. The second-best performing fabric was the double knit of the Merino/fire resistant treated viscose blend (B in Figure 1). The rib knit of the Merino/fire resistant treated viscose, the Modacrylic/rayon/nylon and Nomex® fabrics were the joint third ranking fabrics. Angus says the results show that there is Figure 2: Accelerant fuelled impacts on exposed skin significant potential for wool base-layers The 100% Zirpro®-treated Merino covered skin (B) is very similar to the undamaged to be used for protection as well as comfort control (A), whilst the military polyester (C) and polypropylene (D) covered skin clearly by the military and emergency responders. both have severe damage. “This new test method demonstrated that while synthetic fabrics might be the most cost effective with regard to procurement, they offer very little protection to the wearer under the applied test conditions,” Angus said. “It also highlights that an expensive fibre such as Nomex® is not the only option for protection, as the wool/viscose blend fabric of comparable density can offer the same or better level of protection.” The results of this study, along with a detailed video, are being publicised by AWI in trade publications, at trade shows and distributed to partner brands (such as Aclima – see page overleaf) for use in their own marketing. TABLE 1: The nine fabrics used in the AgResearch study FABRIC STRUCTURE Measured mass MARKET COMPOSITION (g/m2) Outdoor 100% polypropylene Rib 175 British Forces 100% polyester Fleece 180 British Forces 100% polyester Fancy knit 160 UK Police 100% polyester Fancy knit 146 US Military Modacrylic/rayon/nylon Single jersey 184 US Military Nomex®/spandex (97/3) Fancy knit 223 Protective/outdoor Merino wool/fire resistant viscose (50/50) Double knit 230 Protective/outdoor Merino wool/Fire resistant viscose (50/50) Rib 220 Protective mid-layer 100% Zirpro® treated Merino wool Single jersey 440
12 OFF FARM ACLIMA’S around for a while but it has never been executed as well as in the apparel winner of this year.” AWARD BASE-LAYERS FOR PROFESSIONAL USERS A different market altogether is the WINNING professional user market in which there are opportunities to increase wool in work wear and specialist clothing. BASE-LAYERS Aclima has been targeting this sector in recent years and sees a great potential in it for wool. Most of the wool innovations that have been developed for the outdoor market during the past 10 years are also readily applicable to the Police, Defence Force and The Woolmark Company is helping award winning outdoor Rescue services. brand Aclima to promote its Merino wool apparel, focusing The main product line in achieving this primarily on two categories: its lightweight summer tops and its goal for Aclima is its WoolNet range that base-layers for professional users. delivers warmth without weight. The mesh construction of the base-layers provides excellent breathability and is very light “The cooperation with The Woolmark and comfortable to wear. The Norwegian Company has always been good,” said military has used Aclima WoolNet garments Aclima CEO Hans Petter Jacobsen. “We have for decades. experienced benefits in our marketing and packaging using the Woolmark symbol. One of Aclima’s WoolNet garments is the The input from The Woolmark Company’s award-winning WoolNet Overall (for men laboratory and research personnel is also and women) that was the grand champion valuable. When working with professional winner for Autumn/Winter 2020/21 at the buyers from police and military, these Scandinavian Outdoor Award. “The best objective results and data are most valued.” overall I have worn so far,” raved one jury member. “The stretchy, soft WoolNet fabric LIGHTWEIGHT SUMMER used throughout the one-piece base-layer garment does not get soaked when sweating BASE-LAYERS during high activity, dries quickly, and As with most wool focused brands, the insulates well.” challenge for Aclima is to maintain demand for wool products in the warmer seasons, The Woolmark Company has been providing outside the traditional peak wool selling marketing support to Aclima in this seasons of autumn and winter. professional user category. Of particular interest, The Woolmark Company provided The Woolmark Company has been assisting Aclima with video footage regarding Aclima promote its LightWool collection, the flame-resistant properties of wool which has been specially engineered to work compared to fabrics made from other fibres Aclima’s WoolNet garments are designed for high well in the warmer seasons. (see previous page). This footage has been intensity activities when moisture transport, weight, ventilation and functionality are the most important. used by Aclima to promote its Merino LightWool garments are made from wool base-layers at security and safety superfine 17.5 micron Merino wool yarn A clima is a Norwegian knitwear manufacturer and Woolmark licensee that specialises in sports base-layers and and weigh only 140gsm, meaning these lightweight and soft garments are ideal trade shows such as Milipol in Paris in November last year. for activities like running, cycling or golf MORE INFORMATION mid-layers, with Merino wool in most of during the summer months or as soft, www.aclima.com its products. Founded in 1939, the company warm everyday clothes. The garments are is very well established in technical and machine washable. functional apparel. One of Aclima’s LightWool garments is the The Woolmark Company has been award-winning LightWool Sports T-shirt working with Aclima to increase consumer (for men and women) that won the Apparel demand for its Merino wool products. category for Spring/Summer 2020 at the This is primarily being achieved through Scandinavian Outdoor Award. The Awards promotion of Aclima’s LightWool range for have been held since 2005 to support product Spring/Summer and its WoolNet range for innovations and are highly respected in both professional users. the manufacturing and retail industries. A secondary goal of the collaboration has The Aclima Sports T-shirt is a 100% Merino been to build consumer, retailer and trade wool garment that has Merino wool mesh understanding of wool’s properties and strategically placed under the arms and The Aclima team after their 17.5 micron benefits, which will result is a longer term partly on the back for optimal ventilation LightWool Sports T-shirt (also pictured at top of and wider increase in demand through page), which combines Merino wool fabric with and breathability. The Scandinavian Outdoor the distribution of wool products by more Merino mesh under the arms and partly on the Award jury stated: “Combining knitted retailers and contract business. back, won the Spring/Summer 2020 Scandinavian Merino fabric and Merino mesh has been Outdoor Award in the Apparel category.
OFF 13 FARM WOOL WITH BANG: ULVANG Norwegian-based sports and outdoor brand Ulvang, whose business is wholly based on wool, is expanding into new geographical markets and sports sectors, with support from Ulvang founder and Olympic gold medallist Vegard The Woolmark Company. Ulvang: “From an environmental perspective, wool comes out very well.” U lvang takes its name from its high- profile founder, Vegard Ulvang, one of the most successful cross-country skiers of much so that its slogan is ‘We are wool!’. Vegard is still part of the team at Ulvang “I believe it will be very important in the future for brands and consumers to know about the environment in which the sheep all time – he won three Olympic gold medals and is involved in product development, are raised, that the wool is produced to a in 1992 as well as World Championship gold testing and sales, as well as being its proper standard. I believe the customer will medals in 1991 and 1993. key ambassador. be attracted to those that have got their values in order and are in control of their But Vegard is also a big adventurer. He has “The brand’s aim has always been to supply chain,” Vegard added. climbed in the Himalayas and the Caucasus facilitate great experiences for our Mountains, reached the South Pole, crossed customers in nature – and I am very proud AWI’s marketing arm The Woolmark Greenland and the Northwest Passage to have contributed to the movement Company has been supporting Ulvang’s on skis, and spent countless hours in the away from synthetic base-layers to wool marketing initiatives to help increase mountain ranges of Norway. He has also the volume of Australian Merino wool products,” Vegard said. starred on travel and adventure TV shows. garments sold. Ulvang’s base-layer products and some As an athlete and adventurer, Vegard Ulvang aims to increase its focus on high mid-layer products and accessories are considers wool as the only fibre that is good intensity sports such as cross-country made from Merino wool, with the brand’s enough in competitions and for expedition. skiing, and expand into warmer season marketing very much focused on the fibre’s sports such as running, highlighting the In 1995, Vegard developed the first Ulvang inherent natural properties and its next-to trans-seasonal properties and benefits product: a wool sock. Fast forward 25 years skin benefits. of wool. All its products are Woolmark- and the brand now produces a wide range of certified. wool base-layers, mid-layers and accessories As well as the natural benefits of (socks, hats etc) and is very well established wool, environmental protection, social Ulvang already has a large presence in in the ski and outdoor sectors. Wool is responsibility and animal welfare are also North European countries and aims to totally engrained in the Ulvang business, so pillars in the brand’s philosophy. expand further into other European markets and also take its first steps into China. Ulvang’s ‘Rav 100%’ base-layer As part of its marketing, Ulvang has been series uses 100% Merino wool and is highlighting the traceability of its apparel one of its customers’ favourites. back to the origin of the fibre. This has included a video and feature on its website of one of the Australian properties, ‘Nanimia’ in Victoria (see picture below), that supplies Merino wool to the brand. MORE INFORMATION www.ulvang.com One of the properties from which Ulvang sources its Merino wool is ‘Nanimia’ at Snake Valley in central Western Victoria, owned by Alan Pitcher and his son Russell. The Pitcher family typically runs about 5,000 sheep of 18-19 micron on their 800-hectare property.
14 OFF FARM INSTAGRAM INFLUENCER MARKETING The Woolmark Company is joining with key ‘Instagram influencers’ in the United States to promote commercially available wool products to their large fan bases. A s an image-driven social media platform, 307k Instagram offers a modern and novel opportunity for AWI’s marketing arm The Woolmark Company to influence consumers’ purchase intent. INSTAGRAM FOLLOWERS @missholldoll As well as having its own Instagram channel, The Woolmark Company partners with other If you’ve been following me for a HOLLY JOHNSON key Instagram channels, selected due to their while, then you know I’m a big fan established credibility and large audiences. of merino wool. It’s breathable, The images and posts that these ‘Instagram moisture-wicking, odor resistant, influencers’ post onto their channels can be very environmentally-friendly, etc. The impactful upon their fans, and through this list goes on with this 100% natural, partnership are being used to increase consumer renewable and biodegradable fiber… awareness and purchasing of wool products. and I’m excited to tell you guys all about it! Over the course of the next The Woolmark Company joined in March few months, I’ll be partnering with with three high profile opinion leaders in the @TheWoolmarkCompany and sharing United States, who each have large Instagram the benefits of Australian wool, followings, to share their experiences with introducing you to some great brands wool and showcase wool products from Holly Johnson is a Washington state native and using Aussie Merino wool (like partner brands. Here are some of the images nature lover who enjoys hiking and backpacking. @nagnata_) and showing you how I She will promote wool product from partner and experiences they have shared with incorporate it into my lifestyle! brands such as Nagnata, Tracksmith, Black their followers. Diamond and Lululemon. 125k 383k LAUREN SINGER INSTAGRAM FOLLOWERS INSTAGRAM FOLLOWERS RYAN ROBINSON @handsomerobinson @trashisfortossers Lauren Singer is the CEO and Founder of Package Free Shop, and will advocate for natural fibres Ryan Robinson is a through her completely professional highliner, plastic free lifestyle. She adventure athlete, will promote wool product photographer, and three- from partner brands such time American Ninja Warrior as Phillip Lim, Wardrobe finalist. He will promote wool NYC and Everlane. product from partner brand Black Diamond. I don’t believe that you should ever have to sacrifice Well, the seasons just got a whole lot comfier... I’m excited to personal style and creativity to be sustainable, and announce that I am now part of the because of secondhand shopping and innovative new @TheWoolmarkCompany ambassador team! It’s a proud brands that are made from fully natural fibers, I’ve opportunity to work with a brand built on values surrounding found that I haven’t had to … I’m excited to partner with connection, unity, and collaboration to bring Australia’s best the non profit, @thewoolmarkcompany, to help raise wool to the high performance space. What’s more is they’ve awareness of natural fibers like wool so you don’t need to now joined forces with @BlackDiamond to bring a whole buy synthetic fabrics. For example, these @31philliplim new level of performance, comfort, and sustainability to an pants were made in partnership with Woolmark using already amazing product line by using Australian Merino Australian merino wool - a 100% natural and renewable Wool, which is 100% natural, renewable and biodegradable fiber. The look is aesthetically aligned with my style and (Mother Earth says thank you!) I’ll be sharing more on this in the materials are aligned with my values … Over the next my stories today so make sure to follow along. Proud to be few months I’ll be featuring a range of brands that use part of the team! merino wool.
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