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Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps
PRAGUE “In Your Pocket: A cheeky, well-
written series of guidebooks.”
The New York Times
October - November 2009
Velvet
Revolution
The 20th anniversary
Czech Spas
Relaxing all over the
country
N°53 - 100 Kč
www.inyourpocket.com
Hotel Absolutum
boutique hotel
in Prague
Hotel Absolutum is pleased to announce that pop and disco band
BONEY M. was a VIP guest.
For more information see www.absolutumhotel.cz
BONEY M.
Jablonského 639/4, 170 00 Praha 7
T:+420 222 541 406, F:+420 222 541 407
Email: booking@absolutumhotel.cz
www.absolutumhotel.cz
CONTENTS 5
E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S www.inyourpocket.com
Contents
Arrival & Getting Around 8
Culture & Events 10
Theatre, Festivals
Velvet Revolution 15
Hotels - Where to stay 16
Whatever your budget or needs
Restaurants 24
Guláš to gourmet and everything in between
Cafés 40
Historical slices of Czech life with cake
Czech Spas 42
Relaxing all over the country
Georg Baselitz Through 6 December
Nightlife 54
Explore the depths of Prague’s bars and clubs
Sightseeing
Essential sights 64
The castle, the bridge, the clock
Directory
Shopping 74
Business 75
Lifestyle 76
Adult entertaiment 81
Maps & Index
Street index 86
City centre map 87
City map 88-89
Index 90
© Ursula Schulz
prague.inyourpocket.com October - November 2009
6 FOREWORD
l a c e t o b e
the p
Autumn is a difficult time for the Prague In Your Pocket
office. We are melancholy about the summer’s end; but Europe In Your Pocket
in a way looking forward to brisk days and colourful trees.
for change.
Luckily the excitement and action that is Prague comes
into full play these months, giving our minds something
else to dwell on besides the passing of long summer
evenings. There’s a plethora of new exhibits, shows and
festivals on right now; check out what’s happening when
you are in town starting on Page 12.
We are a nature loving country; especially when it comes to
finding food in said nature. Last year, Czechs collected 2.75
billion Czech crowns from the woods. That’s not in lost mon-
ey; that’s the approximate value of crops picked in the wild
vegetation. According to statistics, mushrooms are number
one and other forest fruits, like blueberries, raspberries,
etc. follow. If you do want to try this Czech experience, take
someone who knows what they are doing with you. There’s
a saying – all mushrooms are good. Once.
Two holidays in October and November give Czechs a welcome
day off. October 28 is Czechoslovak Statehood Day. Strangely
celebrating the founding of a country that no long exists; under
Communism the holiday was called Nationalization Day and
“celebrated” the transfer of private property to the state. Be-
sides closure of shops and such, especially outside the centre,
President Václav Klaus will most likely give a celebratory ad-
dress and wreathes will be placed at memorials. November 17
is always Freedom and Democracy Day; but this year it’s also
the 20th anniversary of the Velvet Revolution. Read our special
feature on this momentous event on Page 15.
Get out and enjoy the lovely Prague autumn; we’ll be there
with you! Our team in Russia is preparing a rather special
In Your Pocket guide right now to tie in with the
Cover story 1150th aniversary of the city of Veliky Novgorod.
Look out for a special supplement in our next Rus-
On our cover we feature the sian guides and online at russia.inyourpocket.
beautiful Baroque Valdštejnská com. Elsewhere, you can now get your hands
zahrada or Wallenstein Gardens. on Sarajevo In Your Pocket when visiting the
The bronze statues here aren’t Bosnian capital, and the same team - who have
t h e o r i g i n a l s; t h o s e w e r e successfully pocketed Slovenia and Bosnia - are
“borrowed” by the Swedes at
the end of the Thirty Years War.
now turning their attention to Italy, and to Venice.
Experience this oasis of calm in We welcome enquiries from anyone who would
the heart of Malá Strana. like to take part in our Pocket Revolution, either
by contributing content or starting up an IYP. Send
us an email at publisher@inyourpocket.com.
Editorial Copyright notice
Editor Jacy Meyer Text and photos copyright PIYP s.r.o. Berlin – city of change.
Contributors Jacy Meyer, 2000-2009. Maps copyright
E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S Wendy Wrangham, cartographer. All rights reserved. No part Twenty years after the Wall came
Jeroen van Marle of this publication may be reproduced
in any form, except brief extracts for down, the city still pulsates with
Prague In Your Pocket Layout & Design Tomáš Haman
Photos Jeroen van Marle,
the purpose of review, without written history, creativity, variety and
V Jámě 1, Praha 1, 110 00 permission from the publisher and
Czech Republic Tomáš Haman, Wendy Wrangham, copyright owner. The brand name In Your
diversity like nowhere else on
tel. +420 224 94 76 01 Ursula Schulz, Robin Divila Pocket is used under license from UAB earth. This is what makes Berlin
fax +420 224 94 86 51 Cover: © Oleksandr Kolesnyk, In Your Pocket (Vokieciu 10-15, Vilnius, truly unique.
prague@inyourpocket.com dreamstime.com Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).
www.inyourpocket.com
Sales & Circulation Editor’s note To find out more, visit
ISSN 1213-2128 General Manager Michal Jareš The editorial content of In Your Pocket www.mauerfall09.de
© PIYP s.r.o. guides is independent from paid-for
Sales Representatives advertising. Sponsored listings are
Klea Radeva - mob. 733 602 988 clearly marked as such. We welcome all
Printed by Tisk Horák, klea@inyourpocket.com readers‘ comments and suggestions.
Ústí nad Labem We have made every effort to ensure
Published six times per year Michal Jareš - mob. 721 810 520 the accuracy of the information at the
20,000 copies michal.jares@inyourpocket.com time of going to press and assume no
responsibility for changes and errors.
Publisher Craig Turp
be open, be free, be berlin.
www.be.berlin.de
Prague In Your Pocket prague.inyourpocket.com
8 ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT 9
Arriving by Plane Public Transport There are two classes on international trains, and prices
vary according to length of journey and class; expect to pay CZ: A brief history
Praha Ruzyně Airport, tel. (+420) 220 11 33 14, fax one third more for first class tickets. For multilingual, quick
(+420) 235 35 09 22, www.csl.cz. Prague's airport is 20km Prague’s public transport system (Dopravní podnik) is and friendly service, avoid the queues at the hlavní nádraží 4th Century
from the city centre. A taxi to the town centre now costs around efficient, fast and reasonably clean. With three metro counters and buy your ticket at Wasteels or at the CR agency. The present day Czech Republic was populated by Celts
600Kčeven if you call a company to pick you up or talk to one of lines, 26 tram routes and 9 night trams you won’t need and it was the Celtic Boii tribe who gave the country its
the bus routes that avoid the centre. Keep in mind that Latin name, Boiohaemum (Bohemia).
the representatives from reputable AAA. Don't pick one up from
outside the terminal (click here for taxi firms). Alternatively, use the centre of Prague is easily accessible on foot. Arriving by Bus 6th Century
the ČEDAZ minibus service (tel. 220 11 42 96, 05:30 - 21:30) Florenc Bus Station J-3, Praha 8, Křižíkova 4, tel. The first Slavs travel from the east to the Prague area.
that runs every half hour between the airport and Náměstí Tickets, valid for all means of transport, can be pur- (+420) 900 14 44 44, www.idos.cz. Most international 7th Century
Republiky (F-2). Tickets cost 90Kč (including one piece of bag- chased from the numerous vending machines at all buses arrive at Prague's central Florenc bus station (Auto- According to legend a princess named Libuše marries
gage, children under 10 free) and can be bought from the driver metro stations, major tram stops and news stands. busové nádraží Praha Florenc, open 05:00 - 23:00), which a ploughman and founds the Premysl dynasty. She
or from the booth in the arrival terminal. For an extra fee, ČEDAZ You always need to validate your ticket yourself by is also the watering hole of several endemic species living prophesies that a great city will rise above the banks
can also pick you up or drop you off at your hotel. stamping it in the machines at metro entrances and on solely on alcohol. For information on bus times inquire at of the Vltava.
The cheapest way to get into town is on by bus: N°119 (2-8 trams. The most common ticket is the 26Kč transfer window N°8 (open 06:00 - 21:00). Alternatively, use the 10th Century
times per hour between 04:18 and 00:10 with at least one ticket, which is valid for 75 minutes after validating (90 handy computer in front of window N°8 to search for your Václav I, misleadingly later to be called the Good King
wheelchair-friendly bus per hour) runs between the airport and minutes between 22:00 and 05:00, on weekends and specific bus from the timetables online at the excellent Wenceslas in the Christmas carol, is murdered by his
the Dejvická metro station (Line A, green) in about 20 minutes. public holidays). The 18Kč non-transfer ticket is meant www.idos.cz, which searches all forms of land transport. brother Boleslav. He becomes the country’s patron saint
From Dejvická it is just five stops to Muzeum in the centre of for tram rides under 20 minutes with no changes, or in Window N°6 (open 05:30 - 20:00, Sat 07:00 - 19:00, Sun and his feast day is celebrated on 28 Sept.
town. Bus N°100 whisks you to Zličín (metro Line B, yellow) the metro for up to 5 stations (changes allowed) from 09:00 - 19:30) sells tickets for the ever popular Czech 14th Century
from the airport in 13 minutes. There is a new Airport Express the departure station within 30 minutes. We suggest National Express (Český Národní Expres) buses to Brno. In 1346 Charles IV is crowned King of Bohemia, and in
(AE) bus from Holešovice which runs every half an hour, whiz- you save yourself time by buying a handful of these on The kiosk between window N°4 and 5 (open 07:00 - 18:00, 1348 he founds Charles University in Prague, the first
zing you across the city in half an hour, whether you are arriving arrival. If you’re planning to stay a bit and explore, get the Sat 07:00 - 15:00, Sun 08:30 - 15:30) is an exchange office university in the Holy Roman Empire. Prague becomes the
or departing. Special fares apply to this bus, tickets can only one-day pass (100Kč), a three-day pass (330Kč) or a and also sells public transport tickets, maps and guides. largest city in Europe, with 40,000-50,000 inhabitants.
be bought from the driver and do not allow any transfers or five-day pass (500Kč). Children under 6 travel free; and The nearest ATM is at Florenc metro station, which is 15th Century
other forms of transport. Tickets are 45/25Kč, dogs 25Kč tickets are half price up to 15 years old. Large pieces of next to the bus station. On 6 July, 1415 the protestant reformer Jan Hus is burnt
and luggage is free. First & last buses from Holešovice 05:15 luggage (including rucksacks) cost an extra 13Kč while Eurolines J-3, Praha 8, Křižíkova 6 (Florenc bus station), at the stake. He becomes a martyr for the nationalist and
& 21:45, from the airport 04:40 & 21:10. dogs ride the rails for 26Kč. Fines for no validated tickets tel. (+420) 224 21 86 80, www.bei.cz. The main European Protestant movement that adopts his name.
A 26Kč transport ticket (plus a 18Kč one for big bags) will are 500Kč if paid on the spot or pay 1,000Kč later. bus operator. They also sell various travel passes. QOpen 16th Century
get you all the way into town or to the airport on all public 08:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. In 1526 the Hapsburg Duke Ferdinand I is elected as
transport except the Airport Express. Tickets can be bought The funicular railway and night tram tickets are 26Kč. King of Bohemia. The dynasty will rule the Czech lands
until 1918.
at the friendly transport information desk in both arrival halls
(open 07:00 - 22:00) or from the coin-operated machine at Trams trundle around town Car rental 20th Century
the airport bus stop, but not from the driver. You need to every few minutes; useful Avis I-3, Praha 1, Klimentská 46, tel. (+420) 221 85 28 Oct, 1918 Following the defeat of Germany and
validate the ticket (once for the whole trip) in the machines lines are N°22 and 23 which 12 25, fax (+420) 221 85 12 29, www.avis.cz. QOpen Austria, the Empire dissolves into several national states
on board the bus. run from the centre up to 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. and, Czechoslovakia finally becomes an independent
Prague's new Terminal North 2 will allow for at least 4 mil- the rear entrance of the Budget E-1, Praha 1, nám. Curierových 5 (InterConti- republic. Tomáš Masaryk becomes its first president.
lion more passengers a year to travel into Prague with the castle, saving you the uphill nental Hotel), tel. (+420) 296 63 09 95, fax (+420) 222 15 Mar, 1939 The Wehrmacht invades and turns the
ability to continue expansion. New bars, restaurants, shops walk. The metro connects 31 95 95, www.budget.cz. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Airport Czech lands and Moravia into a protectorate, while Slo-
and services ply their trade in this terminal which accom- the two main train stations office, tel. 220 11 32 53, open 08:00 - 22:00. Reservation vakia becomes an independent fascist state.
modates flights to and from Schengen countries (Austria, and Florenc bus station to centre tel. 235 32 57 13. A 5 May, 1945 The Prague Uprising. Five thousand die in
Belgium, Denmark, Finland, France, Germany, Iceland, Italy, the centre and runs up to Hertz H-5, Praha 2, Karlovo nám. 15, tel. (+420) 225 34 four days of fierce fighting as the Czechs fight the Nazis
Greece, Luxembourg, Netherlands, Norway, Portugal, Greece, just after midnight, after 50 31, fax (+420) 225 34 50 39, www.hertz.cz. QOpen for the city. Prague is finally liberated by the Soviets.
Spain & Sweden). which the night trams (the 08:00 - 20:00. Also at Praha 6, Evropská 15 (Diplomat Hotel), Feb 1948 Assisted by the Soviet Army, the Czech Com-
There is a left luggage facilty at the airport which doesn't warm mobile home to many a smelly tramp) take over, tel. 225 34 50 41, open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat & Sun. munist party takes power. The country will remain under
close and costs 60Kč per item per day. zipping in all directions from the Lazarská stop (H-5) Airport office tel. 225 34 50 21, open 08:00 - 22:00. the Soviet sphere of influence until 1989.
every half hour. Tram information is on the red signs at Prague Spring 1968 Communist Party chairman Alex-
each stop and is generally correct assuming of course ander Dubček makes efforts to establish “Socialism with
Arriving by Train that some worn out Škoda hasn’t died on the tram lines. Taxis a human face”. This includes releasing political prisoners
Prague has two main railway stations. Praha Hlavní nádraží AAA - Radiotaxi, tel. (+420) 222 33 32 22, www. and relaxing press censorship. His liberal ideals are
(‘main station’, tel. 224 61 52 49) is architecturally fabulous (in Beware of Prague’s ultra-professional pickpockets, aaa-radiotaxi.cz. The most reputable company in town. brutally repressed by the invasion of Warsaw pact troops
the Jugendstil tradition) although you won’t know it until you exit especially on trams N°22 and 23 and in busy metro cars; Ordering by SMS is possible at tel. 606 99 90 69 but requires on the night of 20 Aug, 1968. In protest at the invasion
its underground nightmare. However massive reconstruction consider waiting for the next train if it looks squeezed. preregistration. 21 year old philosophy student Jan Palach sets himself
has been going on, and if you’ve been here before you’ll see the Airport Cars P.O.Box 100, 160 08 Praha 6, tel. (+420) alight on the steps of the National Museum.
obvious improvements. Ticket windows move randomnly, as do For more information visit Dopravní podnik’s excellent 220 11 38 92, www.airport-cars.cz. The silver cars with 19 Nov, 1989 The Velvet Revolution 200,000 people de-
other services, so watch the signs. The work is scheduled to be website with English and German information on routes AVIS stickers waiting outside the airport arrivals hall charge mand democracy in a demonstration in Wenceslas Square.
completed in 2010. There is a tourist office (open 09:00 - 19:00. and schedules, at www.dpp.cz, or call tel. 222 62 37 77. 650Kč for a ride to the city centre. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. As crowds swell, the government gives in, and in 1990
Sat, Sun 09:00 - 16:00) in the centre of the lower hall of the two Prague Airport Shuttle, www.prague-airport-shuttle. former dissident Václav Havel is elected head of state.
levels. For your best money exchange deal, use the ATM on the Travel Information Centre I-5,, MMuzeum, tel. com. QN 31 Dec, 1992 Dubbed The Velvet Divorce, Czechoslo-
far left of the lower hall. Train information can currently be found (+420) 296 19 18 17 (07:00 - 21:00), www.dpp.cz. Prague Airport Transfers, tel. (+420) 800 87 08 88, vakia divides into two independent states, Slovakia and
in the lower left of the hall as well as to the left of the middle All you ever wanted to know about routes, tariffs, tickets, www.prague-airport-transfers.co.uk. the Czech Republic.
passageway to the platforms. Left luggage (úschova) lockers timetables, re-routings and service disruptions, maps 21st Century
and general information about Prague’s bus, tram and Aug 2002 Floods devastate the country and cause chaos
are available. Getting to town involves one stop on the metro to
Muzeum or a dangerous walk up busy Wilsonova. metro system from friendly, multi-lingual folk. Apart from Travel agencies and millions of crowns of damage as the Vltava rises.
The second station, Praha Holešovice (tel. 224 61 58 65), is the airport offices, these are found at the metro stations. Euroagentur Praha Praha 10, K Horkám 23, tel. 1 May, 2004 The Czech Republic joins the European Union.
used by trains on the main Berlin - Prague - Vienna/Bratislava QOpen 07:00 - 21:00. Also at E-4, Můstek, Jungmannovo (+420) 271 09 08 31, fax (+420) 271 75 02 74, www. January-June 2009 Czech Republic holds the EU
route. The small hall holds the ticket office (open 09:00 - 17:00, nám., open 07:00 - 18:00, closed Sat & Sun; Andĕl, open euroagentur.cz. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. presidency.
closed Sat, Sun), left luggage lockers, an internet café and 07:00 - 18:00, closed Sat & Sun; Prague Airport terminals Mary's Travel & Tourist Services J-5, Praha 2, Italská November 2009 Country celebrates 20 years post-
several exchange and accommodation offices (open 06:00 - 1 & 2, open 07:00 - 22:00. 31, tel. (+420) 222 25 40 07, www.marys.cz.QOpen Communism.
23:00). It is three stops on the metro to Muzeum. 08:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 21:00.
Prague In Your Pocket prague.inyourpocket.com prague.inyourpocket.com October - November 2009
10 CULTURE & EVENTS CULTURE & EVENTS 11
Prague is something of a cultural Mecca, and not just be- Palace Theatre I-4, Praha 1, Václavské nám. 43,
cause of the affordable tickets. There was always a lively MMůstek, tel. (+420) 224 22 88 14, www.palacethe-
tradition here (Mozart was celebrated as a hero in Prague atre.cz. Tickets 140 - 340Kč. Q Performances start at 20:00.
while shunned in Vienna), and the influx of culture-hungry Ta Fantastika D-3, Praha 1, Karlova 8, MStaroměstská,
tourists in the past decade has led to an enormous variety tel. (+420) 222 22 13 66, www.tafantastika.cz. Tickets Radlická 3179/1E, Praha 5 - Smíchov
of concerts. Tickets are best and easiest booked via the 700Kč. Q Performances start at 21:30.
ticket agencies. Remember, going to the theatre or opera WOW Show (Theater Blanik) I-4, Praha 1, Vaclavske
is still something of an event in Prague, and it’s courteous namesti 56, MMůstek, tel. (+420) 224 03 21 72, info@
to dress up when visiting. wow-show.com, www.wow-show.com. Tickets 550Kč. Q
Performances start at 20:00.
Black Light Theatre
A Prague speciality; fluorescent mime actors and puppets Cinema
Village Gold Class Cinemas You‘re ushered into your
moving in front of a black background. Great for children, Multiplex cinemas are big business, although the smaller,
and for adults too. older independents survive on their quirky, less Hollywood- are the top, the ultimate, seats complete with a private
dictated programmes and cheaper tickets. Village, Palace the very best cinemas table by your side. The lights
All Colour s Theatr e E-4, Praha 1, Ry tířská and City Cinemas are the more expensive multiplexes (159 • 14 cinemas • Modern • Comfortable
31, MMůstek, tel. (+420) 221 61 01 73, w w w. - 199Kč) although there is discount Monday, Tuesday & • Parking art cinema cinema you‘ll ever experience. dim, and the film begins...
blacktheatre.cz. Tickets 450Kč. Q Per formances Wednesday, with tickets for 109Kč - see below for details.
star t at 20:30. Czech and other non-English language films are not usually
Animato F-3, Praha 1, Na Příkopě 10, MMůstek, tel. subtitled in English, but we do have access to more titles now.
(+420) 281 93 26 65, www.volny.cz/black.theatre. English language films are usually subtitled, except kids’ films
Tickets 430Kč. Q Performances start at 20:30. which are dubbed. For listings see www.expats.cz.
Image Black Theatre E-1, Praha 1, Pařížská 4,
MStaroměstská, tel. (+420) 222 31 44 58, www. Aero Praha 3, Biskupcova 31, tel. (+420) 271 77 13 49,
imagetheatre.cz. Tickets 480Kč. Q Performances start www.kinoaero.cz. A cool little arthouse cinema in Žižkov;
at 20:00. tram N°9 to Biskupcova. Q Tickets 40 - 95Kč.
Jiří Srnec Black Light Theatre D-4, Praha 1, Národní Cinema City Flóra Praha 3, Vinohradská 149, MFlóra,
20, tel. (+420) 721 58 92 44, www.blacktheatresrnec. tel. (+420) 255 74 20 21, www.cinemacity.cz. Includes
cz. Tickets 520Kč. Q Performances start at 19:30. an IMAX theatre. Q Tickets 159Kč, Tue 109Kč. Also at
Metro Theatre D-4, Praha 1, Národní třída 25, Galaxie, Arkalycká 1; Zličín, Řevnická 1.
MNárodní třída, tel. (+420) 221 08 52 76, www. Lucerna I-4, Praha 1, Vodičkova 36, MMůstek, tel.
blacktheatreprague.cz. Tickets 440Kč. The performance (+420) 224 21 69 72, www.multikino.cz. Apparently villagecinemas.cz goldclass.cz
is followed by a workshop and lasts about 80 minutes. Q the longest-running cinema in Prague with Czech and English
Performances start at 20:00. language films. A classic.
Palace Cinemas Slovanský Dům F-3, Praha 1, Na dressed-up people selling tickets for the ‘best of Mozart’-type
ZDENĚK SÝKORA
Museum Kampa Příkopě 22, tel. (+420) 257 18 12 12, www.palaceci- shows, which can be great as they’re usually well performed,
nemas.cz. Popular city-centre multiplex, which is often the and good for children too as they’re not too long. Q Booking
Museum Kampa is a unique cultural conglomeration for
KAREL MALICH
only cinema with English language versions of films other office open 10:00 - 18:00. Tickets 200 - 1,300Kč.
Prague. Their focus is Central European art showcased cinemas show dubbed. Q Tickets 159Kč, Wed 109Kč. Also State Opera I-4, Praha 1, Wilsonova 4, tel. (+420) 224
through both their permanent collection and temporary at Letňany, Veselská 663; Nový Smíchov, Plzeňská 8; Park 22 72 66, www.opera.cz. A fabulous neo-Rococo pile quite
LINES
exhibits. The permanent collections include works by Hostivař, Švehlova 32. unfortunately wedged between the station, National Museum
František Kupka and Otto Gutfreund, while currently on Ponrepo D-4, Praha 1, Bartolomějská 11, MNárodní and two busy roads. Built in 1888 for Prague’s German
is Zdeněk Sýkora and Karel Malich - Lines and Wires: A třída, tel. (+420) 224 23 32 81, www.sweb.cz/mjos/ Theatre Association, it is worth a visit for the glamorous
AND
Dialogue. The exhibit is based on the evolution of both ponrepo/index.html. The official theatre of the National Film gold-and-plush interior and the view of the sumptuous ceiling
artists over the past 20 years. For each painting by Archive and membership can be bought from 14.00 - 18.00 alone. Operas are usually performed in the original language,
Sýkora there will be a “wired object” by Malich. Mon - Fri for 150/100Kč. with Czech or English subtitles projected above the stage.
WIRES The museum is housed in a 10th century flour mill called
Sova’s Mills that has served a wide range of interests before
Světozor I-4, Praha 1, Vodičkova 41, MMůstek, tel.
(+420) 224 94 75 66, www.kinosvetozor.cz. An arthouse
cinema showing classic, current and less mainstream movies,
For tours of the building, contact Prague’s tourist office. Q
Booking office open 10:00 - 17:30; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 12:00,
13:00 - 17:30. Tickets 100 - 1,150Kč.
A DIALOGUE
finally settling on being a museum in 2003. The mill, situated plus Czech movies with English subtitles. Q Tickets 100/50Kč. Stavovské divadlo (Estates Theatre) E-3, Praha 1,
on the Vltava River near Charles Bridge, has always been a Village Cinemas Anděl Praha 5, Radlická 1E, MAnděl, Ovocný trh 1, tel. (+420) 224 22 85 03, www.narodni-di-
dominate aspect of the riverbank and architects carefully tel. (+420) 251 11 51 11, www.villagecinemas.cz. An- vadlo.cz. The first theatre to be built in Prague, and it was also
OCTOBER 2, 2009 reconstructed the historic building. The museum is due
in large part to the generous art donation from Jan and
Meda Mládek, who donated their collection of more than
other cinema complex, this one has an European art house
cinema and Gold Class, where you sit in armchairs and can
here that Mozart’s Don Giovanni made its debut to a rapturous
Czech audience; the opera was destined to bomb in Vienna.
JANUARY 10, 2010
eat and drink to your heart’s content. Q Tickets 159Kč, Mon Q Booking office open 10:00 - 18:00. Tickets 30 - 1,000Kč.
700 pieces to the City of Prague in order for it to be prop- 109Kč. Also at Village Cinemas Černý most. Klementinum D-3, Praha 1, Křižovnická 2, tel. (+420)
erly displayed, cared for and seen. What makes Museum 221 66 32 60, www.klementinum.cz. The beautiful build-
Kampa a cultural meeting point is their educational arm
which offers lectures (often in English or with translation Concerts & Opera ing is home to some good classical music concerts in sublime
grounds. Plus now, the Codex Gigas or Devil’s Bible is on
assistance available) and workshops for kids. The architecture is superb, but be sure to catch this as- show until Jan 6, 2008. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon.
pect that has added to Prague’s fame, her music. Mozart Performances start at 18:00 unless otherwise specified.
Museum Kampa, Praha 1, U Sovových mlýnů 2, 257 wasn’t wrong to embrace Prague as fervently as Prague Karlín Music Theatre Praha 8, Křižíkova 10, tel.
28 61 47, www.museumkampa.cz. Admission prices: embraced Mozart. (+420) 221 86 87 77, objednavky@hdk.cz, www.hdk.cz.
Short-term exhibitions & permanent displays: 160 Kč; The theatre has a long history in the city; its first performance
Museum Kampa – Jan and Meda Mladek Foundation Sýkora - Malich exhibition: 80 Kč; Permanent exhibition Municipal House F-3, Praha 1, Nám. Republiky 5, tel. was the circus back in 1881. Fast forward to the floods of
U Sovových mlýnů 503/2, 118 00 Praha 1 of Central European art; Kupka and Gutfreund: 120 Kč. (+420) 222 00 21 21, www.obecni-dum.cz. Housing a 2002 which saw the historic building practically destroyed.
www.museumkampa.cz Open daily 10:00-18:00. variety of halls, the stunning Art Nouveau Obecní dům is the The theatre reopened in 2006 and has been hosting a string
venue for many classical concerts. Outside, you’ll always find of popular musicals ever since. Q 230-700 Kč.
Prague In Your Pocket prague.inyourpocket.com prague.inyourpocket.com October - November 2009
12 CULTURE & EVENTS CULTURE & EVENTS 13
Puppet theatre www.inyourpocket.com Happenings New National Museum Building
Prague is famous for puppets, and these shows make a Strings of Autumn Music Festival
great night out as language is not usually a barrier. Until 20 November In August, the National Museum opened a new building;
right next door to their current digs at the top of Václavské
Divadlo Minor I-4, Praha 1, Vodičkova 6, tel. (+420) The Duncan Centre Conservatory Praha 4, Branická náměstí. What was originally built to house the Federal
222 23 17 02, www.minor.cz. Tickets 30-80Kč. QOpen 41, tel. (+420) 244 46 13 42, www.duncanct.cz. Con- Parliament in 1966 became the home of Radio Free
09:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 20:00. temporary dance theatre and school. Europe/Radio Liberty in 1993. Barricades and security
Říše loutek D-2, Praha 1, Žatecká 1, tel. (+420) 222 guards were a constant presence; but now that RFE/
32 45 65, www.riseloutek.cz.
National Marionette Theatre D-2, Praha 1, Žatecká Exhibits RL has moved to new digs in Prague 10, the space is
opened up and free (mainly to traffic.) It’s quite a contrast
1, tel. (+420) 224 81 93 22, www.mozart.cz. Jan Šerých: Ano to its 19th century sister building, the massive icon of
Through 8 November Prague. You can see this important bit of Czech history
Theatre This young Prague conceptual artist puts on a one-man
show at the Old Town Hall. Known for his blurring of
and architecture thanks to guided tours currently running
all day, every day. They are in Czech but most of the
Divadlo Alfred ve dvoře I-1, Praha 7, Fr. Křížka 36, geometric tendencies, his work is an abstract construction guides should speak English, and an English audio guide
tel. (+420) 233 37 69 97, www.alfredvedvore.cz. A of symmetrical typographic shapes. This exhibit is being is available as well (included in the admission price.) The
small theatre specialising in moving, visual and experimental described as “mathematical sets made up of elements museum shop and café is partially furnished with original
theatre and dance, with several performances that can be of emotion.” Parliament furniture, so sit back with a cuppa and state
enjoyed by non-Czech speakers. Ticket office and bar opens Where? City Gallery Prague, Old Town Hall, Praha 1, a new law. Currently, the building is nameless; it’s being
an hour before each performance.Q All performances are at Staroměstské náměstí 1, 224 48 27 51, www.ghmp.cz. referred to either as the former Federal Parliament
20:00 unless specified otherwise. Advance bookings at Praha Closed Mondays. building or the new National Museum building. However,
1, Celetná 17; BIO OKO Bar, Praha 7, Fr. Křížka 15 & Praha 2, excitement is in the air, as the naming of the new building
Polí pět, Dittrichova 13. Tickets 150/90Kč. Georg Baselitz was left up to public suggestions. Museum officials said
Divadlo Archa J-3, Praha 1, Na Poříčí 26, tel. (+420) Through 6 December they had received more than 600 proposals, but haven’t
221 71 61 11, fax (+420) 221 716 666, www.archa- Experimental German painter Georg Baselitz’s work can chosen one yet. Supposedly, the “finalists” will also be
theatre.cz. Affectionatel y known as the “al ternative be seen in the fabulous Rudolfinum space right now. His chosen by the public and the new moniker is set to be
National Theatre,” Archa has done wonders for Prague’s compositions are curious; and this exhibition displays a wide Jazz & classics; traditional & experimental; you’ll find revealed in November.
cultural scene. It’s not necessarily an “English” theatre, view of his work from 1960-2008. A changing perception, it all at this diverse festival. Organisers strive to bring Where? Vinohradská 1, Praha 1, 224 497 430, www.
however their eclectic line-up often transcends language while attempting to hold on to reality is evident in this together seemingly incompatible musical styles, and it nm.cz
barriers. Check their website - you never know what ad- painter’s style. His creativity of style and technique breathes always works out well. The festival began as a series Guided Tours: The museum is open daily from 10:00-
ditional items of interest, including concerts, they’ll have new life into the art of “painting.” of programmes back in 1996 and has since grown 18:00. On Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, tours are
on tap. All shows at 20:00 unless otherwise listed Q Where? Galerie Rudulfinum, Praha 1, Alšovo nábřeží 12, to be a major festival on the city’s cultural calendar. held every 30 minutes; Monday-Friday tours are every
Performances start at 20:00 unless stated otherwise. 227 059 205, www.galerierudolfinum.cz. Closed Mondays Strings of Autumn often commissions new work and hour. You can reserve a spot for an 11:00 or 15:00
PTAEGKW with their three themes being “Inspiration,” “Crossover” tour only, by phoning or emailing at least three days
Divadlo Hybernia F-3, Praha 1, nám. Republiky 4, tel. Entropa and “Luminaries” all attendees are sure to discover in advance: 224 49 74 30, info@audioguide.cz. Cost
(+420) 221 41 94 12, www.divadlo-broadway.cz. Dat- Through 4 January something rousing this season. Tickets can be bought is 80 Kč.
ing back to the reign of Charles IV, this building was recently The art exhibit that sent shock waves through Brussels online at the festival’s website, www.strunypodzimu.
refurbished and now provides a home to Golem, a musical during the Czech Republic’s European Union presidency is cz, or in person at the National Theatre’s ticket office,
of the Jewish legend, which plays daily with English subtitles. now on display in Prague. Local bad boy David Černý is known Praha 1, Ostrovní 1, 224 901 247. Book in advance; they Belgium as well as performances from Israel, Mali and
NB Rows 1-6 & 32-33 are not good for viewing the subtitles. for his controversial art displays, so it should have come as sell out quickly. New Zealand. For specific shows and more information,
Q Tickets 599 - 799Kč. Box office open 10:00 - 02:00. Per- no surprise when he revealed this installation. Supposedly Venues: Czech Museum of Music, Praha 1, Karmelitská visit www.ctyridny.cz.
formances at 19:00. 15:00 & 19:00 Sat & 15:00 Sun. PA designed by 27 artists, each representing an EU country, and 2; Rudol finum, Praha 1, Alšovo nábřeží 12; Prague Where? Five venues: Divadlo Archa, Praha 1, Na Poříčí 26,
Divadlo na Prádle B-4, Praha 1, Besední 3, tel. (+420) meant to challenge the stereotypes associated with each Crossroads, Praha 1, Liliová entrance is from Zlatá street; archatheatre.cz; La Fabrika, Praha 7, Komunardů 30, lafabrika.cz,
257 32 04 21, www.napradle.cz.. Small theatre space with particular country; it was actually conceived by Černý and Estates Theatre, Praha 1, Ovocný trh 1; La Fabrika, Praha Alfred ve dvoře theatre, Praha 7, Františka Křížka 36, alfredvedvore.
rather good cafe that hosts the Prague Fringe and others. some of his friends. The problem? Some of the countries 7, Komunardů 30, Trade Fair Palace, Cinema ARTminus, cz, Former Federal Parliament building, Praha 1, Vinohradská 1,
Divadlo Ponec Praha 3, Husitská 24, tel. (+420) 222 took offense as to how their state was portrayed, including Praha 7, Dukelských hrdinů 47. For more information visit www.nm.cz and Hala Alta, Praha 7, U Výstaviště 23.
72 15 31, www.divadloponec.cz. Bulgaria, whose portion of the exhibit was covered during www.strunypodzimu.cz.
Laterna Magika C-4, Praha 1, Národní 4, tel. (+420) the installation’s stay in Brussels. Go see for yourself if it Guitar Across Styles
222 22 20 41, www.laterna.cz. Laterna Magika developed was worth all the fuss. 8 October: Echoes of Home; Czech Museum of Music, 19:30 18 October – 28 November
a new way of combining theatre, dance, music and film for Where? DOX Centre for Contemporary Art, Praha 7, 15 October: Ondřej Pivec; La Fabrika, 19:30 An International Acoustic Guitar Festival – in its 12th year in
the 1958 Brussels Expo, and was doing multi-media perfor- Poupětova 1, 774 14 54 34, www.doxprague.org. Closed 21 October: Gil Shaham; Prague Crossroads; 19:30 Prague! Had no idea, did ya? Well, strummin’ fans; this one
mances before the word even existed. All productions are Tuesdays. 31 October: Cassandra Wilson; Rudolfinum; 19:30 is definitely for you: all genres, played on all acoustic guitars;
visually orientated with no spoken Czech - ideal for foreigners. 4 November: Enoch Arden performed by Michael York & Libor by guitarists from all over the world. There’s no one venue;
Q Performances start at 20:00. Tickets 735Kč. Nováček; Rudolfinum; 19:30 concerts are scattered in venues around Prague and indeed
National Theatre C-4, Praha 1, Národní třída 2, tel. Tickets 10 November: 415 versus 422; Rudolfinum; 19:30 the country. But for a different evening of musical enjoyment,
(+420) 224 90 16 68, www.narodni-divadlo.cz. Prague’s 15 November: Astillero Tango; Estates Theatre; 19:30 this is definitely your best bet.
most beautiful riverside building hosts a wealth of perfor- Bohemia Ticket International F-3, Praha 1, Na 20 November: Ludovico Einaudi; Rudolfinum; 19:30 Where? Concer t halls across the city; check www.
mances, mostly concerts and opera. Find the booking office Příkopě 16, tel. 224 21 50 31, www.ticketsbti.cz. kytaranapriczanry.cz for more details or email: standa.
in the modernist glass building next door. Q Booking office QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - Four Days in Motion International Theatre Festival barek@volny.cz.
open 10:00 - 18:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 12:30, 15:00 - 18:30. 15:00. Also at (E-3) Praha 1, Malé nám. A 9-16 October
Švandovo divadlo Praha 5, Štefánikova 57, tel. (+420) Ticket Art I-4, Praha 1, Politických vězňů 9, tel. 222 Now in its 14th year, Four Days in Motion presents Prague Accordion Days
234 65 11 11, www.svandovodivadlo.cz. Local and 89 75 52, www.ticket-art.cz. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, contemporar y and innovative theatre projects with 29 October – 1 November
international plays, both classic and contemporary; always Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. theatre troupes from around the world. Known not only Guitars not your style? No worries; the international festival
something interesting going on at Švandovo. They offer Ticketpro E-3, Praha 1, Rytířská 12, tel. 296 32 99 for their theatre work but also the unique locales where for harmonica and accordion ensembles and orchestras
English subtitles on screens above the stage, so your best 99, www.ticketpro.cz. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. A they choose to show that work (think former sewage plant is playing this month too! Amateur ensembles, orchestras,
bet are seats in the balcony. We’ve listed the plays going on Ticketstream I-6, Praha 2, Koubkova 8, tel. 224 26 one year, factory another year); this year they’ve added accordion and harmonica friends from around the world are
in February, but visit their website for other dramatic and 30 49, www.ticketstream.cz. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. the former Parliament Building to the list. Four Days in here to entertain.
occasionally musical interests. All shows at 19:00 unless Closed Sun. A Motion is an anything goes avant-garde mess of a week. Where? Concert halls across the city; check www.accordion.
otherwise listed. We love it! This year you can experience a pop opera from cz for more details or email: cta@iol.cz.
Prague In Your Pocket prague.inyourpocket.com prague.inyourpocket.com October - November 2009
14 CULTURE & EVENTS VELVET REVOLUTION 15
Th i s N o ve m b e r m a r k s member, Karel Urbánek was elected the new Communist
www.inyourpocket.com Sports t h e 2 0 t h a n n i ve r s a r y o f Party leader. This didn’t sit well with the general public who
C z e c h o s l o va k i a’s Ve l ve t didn’t see the change as true reform but merely a placation.
Jerry Lee Lewis Football Revolution. Following the lead
of their Eastern European November 25 and 26 saw a massive demonstration of 750,000
9 November Well, it is off to a slow start for our first league Prague neighbours, citizens people at Letná Park in Prague followed by the general strike
Shake, rattle and roll, people! Mr. Jerry Lee Lewis will teams. Slavia is doing the best at third, while Sparta is peacefully protested against on November 27. These two acts were devastating to the
be thumpin’ the keys in Prague tonight. Tickets can be languishing down in seventh. Newly promoted Bohemians the Communist regime, and Communist regime. Prime Minister Ladislav Adamec held talks
purchased through Ticketportal, www.ticketportal.cz. Show 1905? Well, let’s just say – the season is young! Winter successfully removed them When – if not now? with Václav Havel who submitted a list of Civic Forum demands.
starts at 19:00. break begins in December, so that’s a good two months from power. Who – if not us? At their second meeting, Adamec agreed to form a new coalition
Where? Tesla Arena, Praha 7, Za Elektrárnou 419, www. to get into form. Tickets can usually be bought day of; government. In addition the Constitution was to be amended
tesla-arena.cz walk up, walk in and enjoy! The easing up of Communist policies actually came from the through the deleting of three articles: guarantee of a leading
then-Soviet Union in the late ‘80s. Mikhail Gorbachev was role in political life for the Czechoslovak Communist Party and
Tom Jones Sparta AXA Aréna, Praha 7, Milady Horákové 98, president, and he was introducing reforms in his own country. for the National Front, and the directive of a Marxist-Leninist
10 November www.sparta.cz Unfortunately for the Czechoslovakians, Gustav Husák, who education. These changes were unanimously approved by the
17 October: vs. SK Dynamo Č. Budějovice, 18:00 came to power following the Prague Spring uprising in 1968, Communist parliament on November 29.
31 October: vs. FC Baník Ostrava, 18:00 continued to push harsh Communist propaganda. By 1988,
14 November: vs. FC Slovan Liberec, 18:00 there were regular protests demanding change. These initial allowances led to an increase in demands by the people.
A new government was formed by Marian Čalfa which included
Bohemians 1905 Ďolíček stadión, Praha 10, What’s come to be known as the Velvet Revolution occurred only nine members of the Czechoslovak Communist Party, several
Vršovická 31, www.fc-bohemians.cz over a six week period from November 17 to December of whom had cooperated with the Civic Forum. The rest of the
18 October: vs. FC Slovácko, 17:00 29, 1989. November 17 was already an important date government was made up of two members from the Czechoslovak
1 November: vs. Slovan Liberec, 17:00 in Czechoslovak history. Fifty years ago, students held a Socialist Party; two from the Czechoslovak People’s Party and seven
8 November: vs. Příbram, 17:00 demonstration protesting the Nazi regime. Students again ministers with no previous party affiliation, all of whom were either
22 November: vs. Sparta Praha, 17:00 took to the streets, this time in protest of a different oppressive members of the Civic Forum or Public Against Violence. President
government. The protest began as a legal rally, but soon turned Husák named this new government on December 10 and later that
FK Viktoria Žižkov Stadión Viktorky, Praha 3, into a demonstration demanding democratic reforms. Students day went on television to announce his resignation.
Seifertova, www.fkvz.cz marching from the Czech National Cemetery in Vyšehrad to
4 October: vs. FC Graffin Vlašim, 10:15 Václavské náměstí were stopped by riot police at Národní Political events moved swiftly; the parliament elected Václav
25 October: vs. FK Baník Sokolov, 10:15 třída. In the ensuing stand-off, students offered flowers instead Havel president on December 11 and he was elected by the
8 November: vs. Slezský FC Opava, 10:15 of resistance to the officers, but the police responded with people in July 1990.
beatings. Nearly 170 students were injured that day. At the
Slávia Stadión Eden, Praha 10, Vladivostocká 10, time, one student was reportedly beaten to death, a rumour
Wow – if you are in town this week how much more lucky www.slavia.cz which proved to be false. That “death” however served to Velvet Revolution Anniversary Events
could you be? Back to back shows of Jerry Lee Lewis and 4 October: vs. Sparta Praha, 17:00 mobilize support for the students and their demands amongst 20 Years Without the Curtain
Tom Jones! Pardon us while we take a deep breath and get 25 October: vs. SK Sigma Olomouc, 17:00 the general public. In another blow to the government’s control, 17th November
prepared to toss our undies. Show starts at 20:00; tickets 8 November: vs. FC Viktoria Plzen, 17:00 a number of worker’s unions also took up the students’ cause. This free event open to the public will commemorate the
can be purchased via email at info@sazkaticket.cz. 22 November: vs. FC Brno, 17:00 1989 student march from Albertov to Národní třída. The
Where? O2 Arena, Praha 9, Ocelářská Street No. 460/2, Mass demonstrations were held in Prague, Bratislava and programme includes an afternoon procession, memorial
www.o2arena.cz Ice Hockey others cities around the country from November 18 – 27, when a service and a concert by young Czech artists.
Sparta Tesla Arena, Praha 7, Za Elektrárnou 419, general strike was called. In theatres, instead of performances,
www.hcsparta.cz people gathered for public discussions. It was one of these That Time in the East
English Theatres 2 October: vs. Kladno, 18:00 discussions on November 19, at Prague’s Činoherní Klub that From 28 October
9 October: vs. Vítkovice, 18:00 the Civic Forum was founded. It was established as the “official Wondering how folks lived during Communism? This exhibit
Švandovo divadlo, Praha 5, Štefánikova 57, www. 16 October: vs. Kometa Brno, 18:00 spokesgroup for the segment of the Czechoslovak public which aims to show the lives of ordinary people in Czechoslovakia
svandovodivadlo.cz 18 October: vs. Slavia, 18:10 is ever more critical of the policy of the present Czechoslovak from 1948 - 1989.
All listed shows are in Czech with English subtitles. The 25 October: vs. Zlín, 17:00 leadership.” The Civic Forum was led by Václav Havel, later to Where? Stone Bell House, Praha 1, Staroměstské náměstí
subtitles are printed on a screen above the stage so 1 November: vs. Třinec, 17:00 become the country’s first democratically elected president. 13, 224 82 75 26, www.ghmp.cz. Closed Mondays.
sit in the balcony for the best view. Showtime is 19:00. 13 November: vs. Litvínov, 18:00
1, 31 October: Much Ado About Nothing 17 November: vs. Plzeň, 18:00 The group’s first demands were the resignation of the Be Free
2, 29 October: Elton John’s Glasses 20 November: vs. Č. Budějovice, 18:00 Communist government, release of prisoners of conscience From 17 November
5, 7, 17, October: The Boss of it All and an investigation into the police action that had occurred An exhibition commemorating November 17, the 20th
9, 27 October: Casanova in the Spa Slavia O2 Arena, Praha 9, Ocelářská 2, www. on November 17. In the Slovak part of the country a similar anniversary of the fall of the iron curtain as well as events
10, 21 October: A Month in the Country hc-slavia.cz action was taking place – the founding of the Public Against from the 1950s to 1990s.
12 October: The Beggar’s Opera 4 October: vs. Zlín, 17:00 Violence group. Both groups immediately saw citizens joining Where? National Museum, Praha 1, Václavské náměstí 68,
14 October: The School for Wives 6 October: vs. Mladá Boleslav, 18:15 en masse; and not just students. Factory workers, university 224 49 71 11, www.nm.cz
19 October: Masquerade 11 October: vs. Karlovy Vary, 17:00 staff and employees of a variety of other institutions were
23 October: The Mandrake 20 October: vs. Č. Budějovice, 18:15 getting involved in the cause. It took about two weeks for After Velvet
23 October: vs. Kladno, 18:15 the country’s media to begin broadcasting reports of what From November 17
Karlín Music Theatre 1 November: vs. Vítkovice, 17:00 was really going on in Prague, but in the meantime, students A new permanent exhibition at the Golden Ring House will
Praha 8, Křižíkova 10, 221 86 86 66, www.hdk.cz 22 November: vs. Mladá Boleslav, 17:00 began travelling to smaller cities and towns to rally support. attempt to reflect on social, cultural and economic changes
Musicals with English subtitles. Carmen shows at 19:00; 24 November: vs. Třinec, 18:15 that have taken place in the Czech Republic since 1989.
Polish Blood at 15:00. Despite the fact that their neighbouring Communist countries Several artistic generations (both artists working before
1, 2, 37, 8, 9, 10, 14, 15, 16, 17, 21, 22, 23, 24, 29, 30, had been seeing unrest and protests for some time, the 1989, as well as young artists that entered the scene post-
31 October: Carmen Czechoslovak government was totally unprepared for the revolution) will display their views on this theme.
4, 11, 18, 25 October: Polish Blood up swell of public support for the students’ cause. As mass Where? Golden Ring House, Praha 1, Týnská street 6, 224
1, 8, 15, 22, 29 November: Polish Blood demonstrations continued and more and more people 82 70 22, www.ghmp.cz. Closed Mondays
4, 5, 6, 7, 11, 12, 13, 14, 18, 19, 20, 21, 25, 26, 27, 28 www.inyourpocket.com supported the general strikes that were being called, an
November: Carmen extraordinary session of the Czechoslovak Communist Party Interested in visiting some of the important Velvet Revolution
was called. The Presidium resigned, and a relatively unknown sites? Read our Pocket Watch on Page 31.
Prague In Your Pocket prague.inyourpocket.com prague.inyourpocket.com October - November 2009
16 WHERE TO STAY WHERE TO STAY 17
Prague has a long tradition of hospitality having hosted Hilton Prague J-2, Praha 8, Pobřežní 1, MFlorenc, tel.
generations of travellers, thinkers and invading armies. Symbol key (+420) 224 84 11 11, fax (+420) 224 84 23 78, sales.
However, to the modern guest this may not be immediately prague@hilton.com, www.prague.hilton.com. Easily
apparent as the tradition of customer service is somewhat P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted recognisable as the glass box on the Vltava, Hilton Prague has
shorter. Generally, the further you travel into residential O Casino H Conference facilities all the facilities expected in this international brand. 24 hour
Prague, the cheaper the rooms become (and the quirkier bars, restaurants and services and a casino. Q788 rooms
the environment). Late night revellers staggering home to T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled (20 singles €150 - 280, 646 doubles €150 - 280, 91 triples
musical accompaniment can make a stay in the Old Town €166 - 296, 19 suites €308 - 438, 3 apartments €686 - 816, >Q@Q^[bvSY!% @bQXQ$ ")&()%
R Internet L Guarded parking bUcUbfQdY_^0X_\YTQiY^^ Sj ggg X_\YTQiY^^ Sj
less than peaceful, so check out your hotel's location before 8 junior suites €266 - 396, 1 presidential suite €956 - 1089).
signing up. Alternatively, find a hotel when you get here, and F Fitness centre G Non-smoking rooms ACDFGHKLOPRTU hhhhh
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Hilton Prague Old Town I-3, Praha 1, V Celnici 7, MNám.
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to a top-class oriental and Italian restaurant, facilities include a (+420) 222 32 95 45, office@grandhotelbohemia.cz, €950). PTJHARUFLGKDC hhhhh 3QV} BUcdQebQ^d5c`bYd
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suites €410). ACDFGHKLPRTU hhhhh Q78 rooms (10 singles €175 - 240, 65 doubles €210 - (+420) 224 81 12 16, prague@ihg.com, www.intercon- `Q^_bQ]QdYSfYUg
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new Kempinski hotel. The property dates back to the 15th
century and has been carefully reconstructed to offer 75 9>Ñ389317?!)# cÀCDI
18 WHERE TO STAY WHERE TO STAY 19
Radisson SAS Alcron I-5, Praha 1, Štěpánská 40, Andel’s Praha 5, Stroupežnického 21, MAnděl, tel.
MMůstek, tel. (+420) 222 82 00 00, fax (+420) 222 Upmarket (+420) 296 88 96 88, fax (+420) 296 88 99 99, info@
82 01 00, sales.prague@radissonsas.com, w w w. Absolutum Praha 7, Jablonského 4, MHolešovice, andelshotel.com, www.andelshotel.com. Bang in the
prague.radissonsas.com. Built in 1930 and restored to tel. (+420) 222 54 14 06, booking@absoluthotel. centre of the upmarket development west of the river, and
its former glory in 1999, this place has picked up a heap cz, www.absolutumhotel.cz. The absolute best place just a few tramstops from the old town, the glittering facilities
of design awards. Guests can expect rooms that have the to stay in Praha 7. Design hotel Absolutum is an upscale, at Andel’s will blind you with their high-technicity. Top-notch
warmth and grace of state rooms on a luxury liner. The higher clean and shiny place with all the conveniences of home; accommodation with designer lines. Q231 rooms (singles
the floor, the more stunning your view of Prague. Extras including internet connection and parking. The restaurant €235 - 300, 223 doubles €255 - 325, 8 suites €320 - 380).
include a 24-hour limousine service. Prices do not include is also getting rave reviews so if you are looking for chic ADFGHKLPRTU hhhh
VAT. Q211 rooms (12 singles €169 - 229, 180 doubles accommodations in a cool ‘hood, absolutely check in. Q
€169 - 229, 5 suites €309 - 359, 1 apartment €900 - 1300, Doubles from €79. PAUFK Antik City H-5, Praha 2, Malá Štěpánská 13, MMůstek,
13 junior suites €269 - 309). PTHARUFLG tel. (+420) 224 91 91 00, fax (+420) 224 91 90 60, info@
BKD hhhhh Ametyst J-6, Praha 2, Jana Masaryka 11, MNám. antikcity.cz, www.antikcity.cz. A newly reconstructed
Míru, tel. (+420) 222 92 19 21, fax (+420) 222 92 boutique hotel in a quiet part of Nové Město. The rooms are
Royal Palace B2, Praha 1, Letenská 11, MMalostran- 19 99, mailbox@hotelametyst.cz, www.hotelametyst. classically designed and include sat TV, mini-bar, safe and free
ská, tel. (+420) 224 81 12 81, fax (+420) 224 81 12 87, cz. Nicknamed The Gallery, it has over 450 paintings by internet connection. Their lovely café is a nice place to start or
royalpalace@bestwestern.at, www.hotelroyalpalace. Russian and Romanian artists on display, and a reputa- end your day. Q30 rooms (30 doubles €165). PK hhhh
cz. The first 5-star Best Western hotel in Europe; the Royal tion as one of the more efficient hotels in Prague. Tucked
Palace (neighbor to Prague Castle) is fit for royalty. Boutique away in a quiet section of Vinohrady but close to food Aquapalace Hotel Prague - Čestlice, Pražská, tel. (+420)
amenities and personal touches abound. Only 36 rooms and transport hubs and now with Wi-Fi throughout, this 225 10 88 88, fax (+420) 225 10 89 99, info@aquapalace-
means you’ll get the attention you need; and the renovated is a good low-key option. Q 84 rooms (8 singles €85 hotel.cz, www.aquapalacehotel.cz. Located on the outskirts
19th century building is filled with a charm all its own. Q - 155, 69 doubles €105 - 215, 7 triples €130 - 265). of Prague, this new hotel’s draw is its direct access to Central
Single: €140; Double: €150. PJAUK PHAULGKDW hhhh Europe’s largest waterpark. Conference facilities, a wellness
centre, nearby shopping opportunities and of course all the mod
Sheraton Prague Charles Square Hotel H-5, Prague Élite H-5, Praha 1, Ostrovní 32, MNárodní třída, tel. cons one could want mean even if your skin starts to prune, you’ll
2, Žitná 8, MKarlovo náměstí, tel. (+420) 225 99 99 (+420) 224 93 22 50, fax (+420) 224 93 07 87, sales@ have somewhere to go besides the water. Q231 rooms (183
99, fax (+420) 225 99 99 09, www.sheraton.com. The hotelelite.cz, www.hotelelite.cz. With a history that dates doubles €95, 3 suites €145, 30 Family Rooms €135, 3 Barrier
Sheraton near Karlovo náměstí offers comfy beds, a good in back to the 14th century, the Élite, a member of the Small Free Rooms). TAFLKDC hhhh
between Old and New Town location plus in room high speed Charming group, is another gem. Totally refurbished in 2000,
internet connection and a variety of dining options. Modern rooms are suitably grand, spacious and historic, with wonder- Astoria F-2, Praha 1, Rybná 10, MNám. Republiky, tel.
and sleek, the first Sheraton in Prague has 160 rooms con- ful high ceilings, and lovely antique furniture. Q79 rooms (10 (+420) 221 77 57 11, fax (+420) 221 77 57 12, info@
sisting of 122 deluxe rooms plus 38 suites. It’s a well-located singles €112 - 176, 67 doubles €125 - 199, 1 triple €169 hotelastoria.cz, www.hotelastoria.cz. Astoria occupies
smart choice. Q Deluxe rooms: €150-250; Suites: €250-650. - 267, 1 junior suite €147 - 216). PARULGBK a modern building on some prime real estate in Prague Old
PJHA6UFKW hhhhh hhhh Town. Rooms are on the small side, but comfortable with
bright blue interiors, modern wood furnishings and great
views. Top-floor VIP rooms offer more amenities and enor-
mous balconies. Q74 rooms (singles €99 - 220, 74 doubles
€99 - 240). AGHKLPRTU hhhh
Barceló F-3, Praha 1, Celetná 29, MNáměstí Republiky,
tel. 222 33 71 11, fax 241 44 10 23, oldtownpraha.fom@
barcelo.com, www.barcelo.com. It’s so light and bright!
With a courtyard in its centre; Barceló tosses away the typical
dark lobby and hallways and lets the sun shine in. The lobby
is covered in a skylight and the walk to your room will have
an view to outside. A mix of rooms and suites (28 rooms; 34
suites) with all the mod-cons: mini-bar, TV, DVD player, air-
conditioning, etc. An excellent restaurant as well. Q62 rooms
(28 doubles €64, 34 suites €100). PJAK hhhh
Barceló Praha Praha 4, Na Strži 32, MPankrác, tel.
(+420) 296 77 21 11, fax (+420) 241 44 10 23, hotel@
barcelo.cz, www.barcelo.com. An excellent Spanish-owned
hotel, this place has extremely friendly staff and small yet
comfy rooms with minibar and telephone plus free parking in
the garage. Q213 rooms (singles €130 - 150, 198 doubles
€150 - 170, 15 suites €170 - 240). PHAULK hhhh
Belvedere I-1, Praha 7, Milady Horákové 19, MVl-
tavská, tel. (+420) 220 10 61 11, fax (+420) 233 37 44
71, prague@belvedere-hotel.com, www.hotelbelvedere.
cz. Situated in a lovely area across the Vltava, not far from the
castle, the Belvedere offers wonderful accommodation and a
high level of service. The spacious three-star standard rooms
come with as many mod cons as you could ever need, and the
four-star executive floor has even more on offer. Q152 rooms
(6 singles €53 - 88, 113 doubles €71 - 118, 32 triples €89 -
148, 1 quad €89 - 148). Singles from 1200CZK; Doubles from
1550CZK; Triples from 1950CZK, includes buffet breakfast,
city tax and VAT. HAULGK hhhh
Prague In Your Pocket prague.inyourpocket.com prague.inyourpocket.com October - November 2009You can also read
