STUDENT GUIDE! The insider's guide to experiencing the city - Turismo Madrid

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STUDENT GUIDE! The insider's guide to experiencing the city - Turismo Madrid
FREE!
                                                  2018/2019
                                                  EDITION

                                     u s e u  ms,
                                   M
                                   es ta  u rants,
                                  r            atres,
                                      s , th  e
                                 club
                                       bars...

         MADRID
         STUDENT GUIDE!
The insider’s guide to experiencing the city
         Secret city / Young designers / Best of the barrios / Top 10 artwork / Beautiful getaways /
 PLUS!
         20 great things to do in the city / Where to taste ‘tortilla de patata’...
STUDENT GUIDE! The insider's guide to experiencing the city - Turismo Madrid
Contents

                                             Plaza Mayor is popular with both locals and visitors, p18

                                             Football is so much more than a game in this city, p69         Madrid has live music 365 days a year, p82          A classic Madrid dish, p96

                                            Features                                                                                                     Regulars
                                            04. The best of the city                                     26. The best of the barrios                      42.   Shopping & Style
                                            From a calendar of unmissable events to                      A practical guide with key information           47.   Get the max
                                            activities that won’t cost a thing, and more!                about the city’s main neighbourhoods.           		     out of Madrid
                                                                                                                                                          69.   Things to Do
                                            12. Madrid secrets                                           32. ABC MAD!                                     77.   Cinema
                                            Little-known corners of the city, from parks                 A list of the most popular slang expressions
                                            and cafés to underground bunkers.                            and words to help you get the hang of them.
                                                                                                                                                          79.   Theatre
                                                                                                                                                          82.   Music                        TALK TO US!
                                            18. 20 great things to do                                    36. Who’s who?                                   86.   Clubs
                                            Our selection of what you need to do                         A brief introduction to some of the city’s                                            facebook.com/
                                                                                                                                                          87.   LGTBI                          timeoutmadrid
                                            in Madrid at least once in your life.                        most famous names.
                                                                                                                                                          89.   Art
                                                                                                                                                                                               @TimeOutMAD
                                            22. Garden city                                              40. Dating sites                                 92.   Books
                                                                                                                                                          94.   Food & Drink                   @timeoutmadrid
                                            From waterfalls to peacocks,                                 We pick the most romantic Madrid spots
                                            the city’s most surprising green spaces.                     to take that special someone.                   105.   Escapes

Time Out Madrid Student Guide 2018/19   2                                                                                           3                                       Time Out Madrid Student Guide 2018/19
STUDENT GUIDE! The insider's guide to experiencing the city - Turismo Madrid
Here &
       now
                    MORE INFO AT:
                 timeout.com/madrid

Welcome
to Madrid
WELCOME TO THE CITY where, in one way or another,
everyone’s from somewhere else. Welcome to a city that
greets all arrivals with open arms, where making friends
is just a matter of having a night out, or heading down
to buy bread each day from the local market. Welcome
to the city of fresh air, city parks with ponds and
statues you’ll find nowhere else, with cycle lanes that
criss-cross the neighbourhoods, and outdoor terraces
where you can enjoy a drink with friends in any season.
Welcome to the good-weather city, where the sun
shines almost 365 days a year and umbrellas live at the
back of the wardrobe. Welcome to a city packed with art
and culture from all over the country, with impressive
museums and charming galleries, open-air music

                                                                                                                                             DANIEL MOYANO
festivals and markets. Welcome to the city of delicious
food such as squid baguettes and cocido stew. Welcome
to Madrid, the city that embraces you. ■ Marta Bac

                            THREE TOP TIPS                                         Excellent ideas for expert city living

                    Eat!                                           Dance!                                         Watch!

  The grill and fryer don’t stop for a moment at    From the creators of Medias Puri, this new         Madrid’s last porn cinema has been
 Melo’s, turning out huge sandwiches of lacón       clandestine club has just landed in the city    cleaned up to become trendy new culture
 and melted cheese, vast plates of small green     and it’s going to cause a stir. Uñas Chung Lee   hotspot Sala Equis. Enjoy film screenings
      Padrón peppers and XL croquettes.            promises to revolutionise Madrid’s nightlife.    and beers in a neon-lit space with swings.
            Ave María, 44. M: Lavapiés.                   Hilarión Eslava, 38. M: Moncloa.            Duque de Alba, 4. M: Tirso de Molina.

Time Out Madrid Student Guide 2018/19                                    4                                                                                   5   Time Out Madrid Student Guide 2018/19
STUDENT GUIDE! The insider's guide to experiencing the city - Turismo Madrid
ember
                                                                        Sept
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  The best of MAD

        MAD                                                                         Music
                                                                          Dcode / rid’s biggest fes
                                                                                                      tivals                                                  April
                                                                08
       Calendar
                                                                               of M a d
                                                                          One

                                                                                                                                                                                                                         May
                                                                                            k / Art              more!

         2018/2019                                              28         Worksho
                                                                                    ture Wee
                                                                           Architec , talks, guided v
                                                                                     ps
                                                                                                       isits and
                                                                                                                                      18        Easter/ Festivals
                                                                                                                                                Processions and national holidays
                                                                                             rid / Art
                                                                                      use Mad
             The events you shouldn’t miss
               (*Date to be confirmed)
                                                                    29
                                                                             Open Ho dings open
                                                                                        uil
                                                                             Unique b blic
                                                                                       e pu
                                                                                                                                      19        The Night of Books */ Books
                                                                                                                                                Evening events and bookshop discounts
                                                                                                                                                                                              03         Mutua Ma
                                                                                                                                                                                                         Spain’s on
                                                                                                                                                                                                                     drid Open
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                / Sp
                                                                    their doo
                                                                              rs to th                                                                                                                               ly tennis M ort

                                                                                                                                      28        Rock ‘n’ Roll Madrid
                                                                                                                                                Marathon / Spor t
                                                                                                                                       Madrid’s best-known marathon
                                                                                                                                                                                              09        Surge Mad
                                                                                                                                                                                                       The
                                                                                                                                                                                                                    rid */ The
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                a
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 asters 10

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  tre
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          00 event

                                                                                                                                                                                              theatre fe big fringe
                                                                                                                                       and half marathon                                                 stival
                                                                                                                                                                                             Documenta
                                                                                                                                                                                                          Madrid */
                                                                                                                                                                                             Documen                   Cinema

                       October
                                                                                                                                                                                                       tary film fe
                                                                                                                                                                                                                   stival

                                                                                                                                                                                            15       San Isidro
                                                                                                                                                                                                    Feast day
                                                                                                                                                                                                                / Fiestiva
                                                                                                                                                                                                                             ls

                                                                                          November
                                                                                                                                                                                            patron sa           of Madrid
                                                                                                                                                                                                     int                   ’s
                                                 cial
                                 elcome Day / So
                Madrid Student W
      06        Welcome party fo
                                r students

                                                                             01
                                                                                                                                                                  June
                                                                                       JAZZMAD

      18        Tapapiés */ Food                                                                  RID
                                nd the Lavapiés
                                                neighbourhood                         Internation * / Music
                Tapas route arou                                             in dozens o
                                                                                         f venues
                                                                                                  al jazz festi
                                                                                                               val with co
                                                                                                                          ncerts

                                                                            20
                                   da /Art
      19                                                                                                                                                                                                                   May
                 Madrid Otra Mira
                 Events to help discover the city’s he
                                                      ritage                         Madrid en D
                                                                                     Top nation
                                                                                                 anza/ Dan
                                                                                               al and inte
                                                                                                            ce
                                                                                                          rnational co
                                                                                                                                         01      Mira Madrid
                                                                                                                                                 Explore the ci
                                                                                                                                                               / Art
                                                                                                                                                               ty
                                                                                                                      mpanies           Champions Le
                                                                                                                                        An important ague final / Spor t
                                                                                                                                                    day for footba
                                                                                                                                                                   ll lovers
                                                                                                                                                                                                                           rid */ Dance
                                                                                                                                       05                                                            16
                                                                                                                                                                                                             Flamenco Mad                      Gómez Theatre

                      r
                                                                                                                                               PhotoEspañ
                                                                                                                                                                                                                              l held at Fernán

                     e
                                                                                                                                                             a* /                                                         iva

                    b
                                                                                                                                               The city’s mos Art                                            Flamenco fest

               Decem
                                                                                                                                       photography            t important
                                                                                                                                                   festival                                                                      Literature
                                                                                                                                                                                                               Feria del Libro /

                                                                                                                                      21       Mulafest* /                                           24        Madrid  ’s bo ok fair invades the Re
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   tiro park

                                                                                             Januar y
                                                                                                                                                             Music
                                                                                                                                                                                                                       usic
                                                                                                                                               Annual festiv
                                                                                                                                                             al of trends,                            Tomavistas / M
                                        als                                                                                           tattoos and
                                                                                                                                                  urban ar t                                                   festival in a pretty park
                                Festiv                                                                                                                                                                Eclectic
                      tmas / lidays,
                                                                                                                                     29
                   is

      25
               Ch r              o
                          e for h                                                                                                                Veranos de la
               It’s tim ts                                                                                                                                     Villa*

                                                                             05
                      es  e n                                                                                                                   /Culture Ope
             and pr                                                                  Cabalgata/ Parade                               ar t and film ev           n-air music,
      lights                        Vallec
                                           ana                                       The Three Kings parade through Madrid                            ents all sum           dance,
                         S ilvestre                                                                                                                                 mer long

       31
                  S a n

                                                                             23
                             rt
                  / Spo race sees                                                     Fitur/ Turism
                 pu
         The po ear
                     la r road                                                        Huge international
                                                                             tourism fair                                                                                                                                   August
                                                                                                                                                                         July
                   y
          out the

                                                                             26       Gastrofestival/ Food
                                                                                      Huge foodie fest with
                                                                             loads of activities                                                                                                       01        Local festiv
                                                                                                                                                                                                                               als / Festi
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           vals
                                                                                                                                                                                                                 The San Ca
                                                                                                                                                                                                       San Loren              yetano,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  zo and Verb
                                                                                                                                                                 e / Social                           la Paloma                ena de
                                                                                                                                                      LGTBI Prid
                                                                                                                                             03
                                                                                                                                                                                                                 festi
                                                                                                                                                                 d cultural e
                                                                                                                                                                              vents                   with joy and vals fill the streets
                                                                                                                                                       Parade an                                                   local tradit

                                 February
                                                                                                                                                                   y                                                           ions
                                                                                                                                                        te diversit
                                                                                                                                              to celebra
                                                                                                                                                                               Music
                                                                                                                                                                    Festival /
                                                                                                                                                        Mad Cool
                                                                                                                                               11        Madrid’s b
                                                                                                                                                                     iggest

                 01                                                                                March
                            Madrid Design/ Art                                                                                                           stival
                                                                                                                                                music fe
                            Design festival

                 20         ARCO Madrid/ Art
                            Contemporary art fair                             01         Carniv
                                                                                               all
                                                                                        Dress / Festivals
                                                                                              up and
                                                                             Ellas C                   take to
                                                                                     re
                                                                             Exhibit an / Festiva
                 25         JustMAD / Art                                                                      the city
                                                                                    ion sup         ls                 ’s stree
                            Emerging art fair                                              porting                             ts
                                                                                                   the tale
                                                                                                            nts of c
                                                                                                                    reative
                                                                                                                             women
Time Out Madrid Student Guide 2018/19                           6                                                                                                                       7                                           Time Out Madrid Student Guide 2018/19
STUDENT GUIDE! The insider's guide to experiencing the city - Turismo Madrid
The best of MAD
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              PASSION
                                                       FIGHT!                                                                                        I CAME,                                                                                                    FOR
 MARTA BAC                                                                                                                    DAVID FARRAN           I SAW,
                                                                                                                                                     I STAYED                                                                                                 MADRID
                                Bike lanes or sharing the road?
                                        We debate the best ways for cyclists to move round the city                                                                                                                                                                Celebrities who
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 fell for the charms
Bikes should go on the road,                                                                              Dedicated lanes                                                                                                                                             of our city
like any another vehicle                                                                                  provide better
Bicycles have been experiencing                                                                           protection and safety
a surge in popularity over the                                                                            Now boasting more than
last few years with more and                                                                              300km of cycle lanes, Madrid
                                                                                                                                                   Jessica
more Madrileños using them to                                                                             is becoming a city more and              Escobar, 21.                                                                                                   James Rhodes
get round the city. Whether it’s                                                                          more open to getting around by           Guatemala.
for going to work or enjoying a                                                                           bike every year. The restoration                                                                                                                     The famous pianist
weekend ride, bike lovers are                                                                             of the bicycle as a means of
                                                                                                                                                   International
using this sustainable and healthy                                                                        transport forms part of the              relations                                                                                                   moved to Madrid in
mode of transport every day. And                                                                          plans to improve the quality of          graduate                                                                                                    2017 and since then
even though it’s possible that                                                                            life and even the very idea of                                                                                                                          hasn’t missed
more locals have been encouraged                                                                          the city promoted by Madrid’s
to take up pedalling by the                                                                               institutions. A large part of its
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                               a chance to say how
expansion of the city’s network of                                                                        success is down to the dozens of                                                                                                                        much he loves
dedicated cycle paths, there are                                                                          kilometres of dedicated                                                                                                                                  living here
roads where a lack of space or the                                                                        cycle lanes that have been,
street layout makes it impossible                                                                         and continue to be, created
to add bike lanes. That’s why                                                                             across the whole city, which                                                                                                                          Amy Jo Doherty
the place for bicycles, like any                                                                          allow cyclists to feel safe and
other vehicle, is on the road.                                                                            protected on their journeys.                                                                                                                           The sister of Pete
Cycling on the street – in lanes                                                                          What’s more, the city’s many                                                                                                                        Doherty, lead singer
with special speed restrictions in                                                                        hills are no longer an excuse not
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              of The Libertines and
place for traffic – allows you to get                                                                     to adopt this environmentally
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   ex-boyfriend
anywhere in the city. It also saves
the authorities money,
                                                                                                          friendly and healthy way of
                                                                                                          getting about, given that the            ‘In Madrid you                                                                                              of Kate Moss, lives
because rather than having to
create special bike lanes,
                                                                                                          BiciMAD public rental service’s
                                                                                                          bikes have small electric motors         can discover what                                                                                            here to escape her
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  brother’s fame
they just have to paint
the 30km/h speed limit on the
tarmac. In that way, it raises
                                                                                                          that help you get up the steeper
                                                                                                          slopes. There are also other
                                                                                                          rental services that
                                                                                                                                                   makes you happy’
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  Oona Chaplin
awareness that cyclists are road                                                                          allow you to leave their bikes
users just like any other, too.                                                                           parked on any street.                    How did you end up living here?                                                                             Charlie Chaplin’s
                                                                                                                                                   In 2014 I went to a university in Boston and they
                                                                                                                                                   chose me along with 30 other high-performing                                                                 granddaughter –
                                                                                                                                                   students to study abroad for a year. That six                                                              you’ll know her from
                                                                                                                                                   months marked my life, not just because it          What are the best and worst things                     ‘Game of Thrones’ –
                                                                                                                                                   was the first time I had been in Europe, but        about the city?
                                                                                        It’s not easy to get a good idea of what it’s like to      also because those months in Madrid helped          The Iberian ham is the best. Strolling around
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                is a big fan of the

  SUMMED UP                                                                             live in a city and enjoy its culture when you’ve only
                                                                                        just arrived. So why not try examining it from a
                                                                                        mathematical perspective? If there’s one thing
                                                                                                                                                   foster my passion for a career in international
                                                                                                                                                   relations and diplomacy. Finally, the semester
                                                                                                                                                   turned into two years as I decided to extend my
                                                                                                                                                                                                       the Retiro park in autumn, walking along
                                                                                                                                                                                                       Gran Vía when it’s lit up at night, getting lost
                                                                                                                                                                                                       in Malasaña’s colourful streets, picnicking at
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 city of her birth

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                Viggo Mortensen
                                                                                        Madrid’s not short of, it’s statistics and figures. Such   stay, and I ended up remaining.                     Templo de Debod... Not to forget the EMT bus
                                                                                        as, for example, 232, the number of cinemas in the                                                                             service – which for me is the
                                                                                        city. Or 249, the number of metres high the tallest        Would you recommend                                                 best public transport system in
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                               The actor came to
                                                                                                                                                                                              ‘It has the                                                     Madrid for love – his
            Curious
                                                                                        building in Spain, La Torre de Cristal, stands in Paseo    Madrid to your friends?                                             Europe. The worst thing about
                                                                                        de la Castellana. Even 0 is significant, as kilometre      To my friends and to the seven billion     best public              Madrid? I don’t think there’s           partner is Spanish
           city stats
                                                                                        0 in Puerta del Sol is the point from which all of         inhabitants of the planet! Madrid has                               anything bad to say. Well, the
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              actress Ariadna Gil,
                                                                                        Spain’s roads are measured. On top of that, you have       everything. I would tell those who         transport                heat in July and August.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             and they live together
                                                                                        6 theme parks in and around Madrid and 67 theatres
                                                                                        distributed throughout its neighbourhoods,
                                                                                                                                                   think New York is the city that never
                                                                                                                                                   sleeps that they haven’t experienced
                                                                                                                                                                                              in Europe’              What do you do at the weekend?         in a luxury apartment
                                                                                        which you can reach from its 301 metro stations.           everything Madrid has to offer those                               I love exercising along Madrid              near Gran Vía
                                                                                        Best of all, though, are the city’s 2,710 hours of         who visit it. It’s a city that can help                            Río and going out for tapas. Also
                                                                                        sunshine each year, which you can use to wring             you find yourself and discover what                                going early to the Rastro and even
                                                                                        every last drop out of living here. ■ Marta Bac            makes you happy in life.                                           doing a language exchange.■

Time Out Madrid Student Guide 2018/19                               8                                                                                                                                                         9                            Time Out Madrid Student Guide 2018/19
STUDENT GUIDE! The insider's guide to experiencing the city - Turismo Madrid
FREE MAD
                                                      Enjoy the city without spending a euro

CULTURE
                                                                                                                                                                                                     DON’T
                                                                                                                                                                                                     MISS
Matadero Madrid
A mini city of culture that’s
perfect for exploring. You can
access it from Madrid Río and
then visit its exhibitions,
enjoy its communal spaces
such as the Design Centre,
or watch an avant-garde
play in Naves Matadero.
àPaseo de la Chopera, 14. M: Legazpi.

CULTURAL PASS
JOBO
If you’re between 16
and 26 and want to get
the maximum out of
the city’s culture, you
need to get your hands
on the JOBO card, the
Madrid City Council
cultural pass that from
Monday to Friday
gives you free access to
everything that’s on at              entry to its permanent                       workshops, see an                             centre offers free
the Naves de Matadero-               exhibitions from 6pm                         exhibition, check out                         courses and workshops.
Centro de Artes Vivas,               to 8pm Monday to                             the graffiti works and get                    àValencia, 2. M: Lavapiés.
Teatro Español, Fernán               Saturday and from 5pm                        to know the alternative
Gómez-Centro Cultural                to 7pm on Sundays. The                       underground vibe at this                      A BIT OF EVERYTHING
de la Villa, Conde                   temporary shows are                          former tobacco factory.                       Conde Duque
Duque, Teatro Circo                  also half price during                       àEmbajadores, 53.                             This former army
Price and the Cineteca.              those times.                                 M: Embajadores.                               barracks is now a
àwww.madridcultura.es/jobo           àPaseo del Prado, s/n.                                                                     cultural centre that
                                     M: Atocha.                                   WORKSHOPS                                     hosts exhibitions,
ART                                                                               La Casa Encendida                             conferences and other
Prado Museum                         UNDERGROUND                                  As well as avant-garde                        free activities.
Spain’s largest art                  Tabacalera                                   exhibitions, this                             àConde Duque, 11.
centre offers free                   Join one of the social                       multidisciplinary                             M: Noviciado.

                                 City Manager Nacho Alonso | Editor Marta Bac | Writers Gorka Elorrieta, Noelia Santos, David Farrán de Mora | Translator Nick Funnell | Art Director Judith Rial | Advertising Laura Latorre, Sara Marco
                                 Advertising Coordinator Mélanie García-Gil | Publisher Time Out Spain Media SL. All rights reserved | Chairman Julio Bruno | Executive Chairman Eduard Voltas | Business Manager Mabel Mas
                                 Finance and Operations Manager Judit Sans | Marketing and Ecommerce Manager Aroa Cervantes | Creative Solutions and PR Director Carlota Falcó | Branded Content Coordinator Begoña
                                 García Carteron | Finance and Administration Eduard Poch and Julián López.

                                 Time Out Spain Media is a Time Out Group company | CEO, Time Out Digital Christine Petersen | CEO, Time Out Group Julio Bruno.
Calle Orense, 16, 1º A
28020 Madrid                     Printer Jomagar | Legal deposit B-17373-2017 | ISSN 2565 - 1072 | Time Out Digital ISSN 2462-3385 | Free copy, not for retail sale. No part of this publication may be reproduced
91 603 99 88
redaccion@timeout.es
                                 without the prior permission of the owner. Neither may it be transmitted by any means or method, be it electronic, mechanical or otherwise.

Time Out Madrid Student Guide 2018/19                                                                          10                                                                                                                           11   Time Out Madrid Student Guide 2018/19
STUDENT GUIDE! The insider's guide to experiencing the city - Turismo Madrid
Madrid                                                                                                                                                                                  The only sound you’ll
                                                                                                                                                                                        hear is birdsong in

secrets
                                                                                                                                                                                        this peaceful oasis

There are many books that tell you how to best explore
the city in a day or a weekend. But a place as full of life as
the Spanish capital hides many corners that you won’t
find in any guide. We reveal some of them here – because
sometimes what’s most essential is often invisible

                                                                                                                                   A door to
                                                                                                                                 the sixteenth
                                                                                                                                   century
                                                                                                                                            àCervantes, 11.
                                                                                                                                    “Que mi jardín, más breve
                                                                                                                                     que cometa / Tiene solo
                                                                                                                                     dos árboles, diez flores /
                                                                                                                                  Dos parras, un naranjo, una
                                                                                                                                 mosqueta”. (“That my garden,
                                                                                                                                  more fleeting than a comet /
                                                                                                                                 Has only two trees, ten flowers
                                                                                                                                   / Two vines, an orange tree
                                                                                                                                 and rose hips”.) Four hundred
The beach in Malasaña                   The secret garden                     In the        The Montera oasis                     years later, the birdsong and
à San Andrés, 1.                        à Sacramento, 7.                                    à Montera, 37.                          the scent of blossom and
Right in the middle of the              No. 7 Calle Sacramento hides          middle of     Among the swarm of tourists           roses in poet and playwright
Malasaña neighbourhood there’s
a beach – with sand, a bar and
                                        one of the most closely guarded
                                        treasures in the centre of Madrid     Malasaña      and gold-buyers on this central
                                                                                            Madrid street, you’ll find a small
                                                                                                                                  Lope de Vega’s garden in the
                                                                                                                                   Casa Museo Lope de Vega
everything – where you can hide
out from the cold in winter and
                                        – perhaps because it remained
                                        a secret until 1972. That was
                                                                              is a beach,   oasis where you can escape the
                                                                                            hubbub of the city. Climb up
                                                                                                                                    in the Barrio de las Letras

chill out in summer. Opened in          when the high walls around            with sand,    to the top floor of the Salvador
                                                                                                                                  remain almost as they were.
                                                                                                                                  The garden is now the stage
2004 and remodelled in 2014,
the Ojalá restaurant’s basement
                                        the Bernardas convent that
                                        had protected the Huerto de
                                                                              a bar and     Bachiller store and you’ll step
                                                                                            straight into a fairy-tale tearoom
                                                                                                                                     for recitals, summer film
                                                                                                                                   screenings and concerts at
is a makeshift Ibiza-style space        las Monjas were demolished to         everything    where you can enjoy coffee or          sundown – all of them free,
where you can enjoy a few beers         construct some housing blocks.                      breakfast, munch on a lunch-                all of them intimate.
with friends and relax at the           By luck, the garden, which was                      time snack, or sip a mojito after
low tables with comfortable             originally devoted to growing                       a hard day’s studying. Open
cushions and dimmed lighting.           vegetables by the nuns, remained                    in winter and summer, it’s the
Both homely and exotic at the           intact and since then has been                      perfect place to sample a great
same time, it even features a           open to anyone who wants                            selection of cheeses, Iberian
hanging garden and fluorescent          to visit it to enjoy a few minutes                  hams, gyozas, tacos, salads
tables. And the food is delicious,      of peace and quiet amid the                         and other delicious fare. Its
especially the weekend brunch.          hustle and bustle of Madrid.                        brunch is also in high demand.

Time Out Madrid Student Guide 2018/19                                    12                                                                                        13   Time Out Madrid Student Guide 2018/19
STUDENT GUIDE! The insider's guide to experiencing the city - Turismo Madrid
Sold in                                                                         The underground bunker
             little                                                                          Paseo Alameda de Osuna, 25.
             boxes,
             they’re
                                                                                             This was one of Madrid’s best-
             ideal gifts                                                                     kept secrets until it opened to
                                                                                             the public in May 2016. Given
                                                                                             the code name ‘Posición Jaca’,
                                                                                             this subterranean bunker in the
                                                                                                                                                     The statue is Antonio
                                                                                             Parque de El Capricho housed                            Santín’s tribute to Madrid’s
                                                                                             the military HQ of the Central                          first female student
                                                                                             Republican Army during the

                                                             Flowery                         Spanish Civil War. For 80 years
                                                                                             it remained a silent witness to

                                                              treats                         the conflict, but now visitors can
                                                                                             head 15m below ground and
                                                              à Plaza Canalejas, 6.          discover what was once one of the
                                                    Madrid’s most traditional dish might     city’s most important Republican
                                                    be its hearty cocido stew, but these     command posts. Measuring
                                                     violet candies are the sweeter side     2,000m2 and able to withstand
                                                    of its culinary identity. They’re made   bombs of up to 100kg, the well-
                                                    with violet essence and served with      preserved development is a
                                                      petals and there’s only one place      unique slice of history and
                                                       in the capital where you can buy      tickets to see it sell out fast.
                                                     the real thing: La Violeta, a modest
                                                    wooden-fronted shop that has been        The empty pedestal
                                                    selling them since 1915. They’re so      Parque del Retiro.
                                                      good, so the story goes, that King     Along the Paseo de la Argentina,
                                                     Alfonso XIII gave them as presents      popularly known as the ‘paseo
                                                    to both his wife and his mistresses.     de las estatuas’ (statues’ walk), in
                                                                                             the Retiro park stands a series of
                                                                                             sculptures dedicated to the kings
                                                                                             and queens of Spain of various
                                                                                             eras. There were originally due
                                                                                             to be placed on the cornice of the
                                                                                             Royal Palace but they ultimately
                                                                                             ended up here. There are a total of
                                                                                             14 pedestals, but just 13 statues
                                                                                             – one of the pedestals remains
                                                                                             empty. The missing monarch
                                                                                             could be Alfonso VII, whose figure
                                                                                             may have become so deteriorated
                                                                                             from being moved around that
                                                                                             it couldn’t be put on show. One
                                                                                             other secret few know about is that
                                                                                             of the 13 remaining statues, two
                                                                                             are of the same king: Sancho IV,
                                                                                             nicknamed the ‘Brave’.

          Drinks at                                                                          El cementerio
                                                                                             de los ingleses                                The first
        the art gallery                                                                      Comandante Fontanes, 7.
                                                                                             This graveyard may not be well              female student
         à Corredera Baja de San Pablo, 17.                                                  known in Madrid, but there’s a                   àPez, 42, corner San Bernardo.
        You’ll find plenty of art shops and                                                  lot of history among its tombs.              Madrid is so full of statues that if
         galleries in the city centre, but                                                   The English cemetery was built              you’re not careful you can mistake
       none quite like Kikekeller, a space                                                   in Carabanchel to bury non-                     them for people sweeping the
         where everyday objects and art                                                      Catholics and its first occupant                 street in Jacinto Benavente
        merge. But the premises doesn’t                                                      was Arthur Thorold, a young                      or taking a walk in Plaza San
          reveal its real secret until the                                                   British man whose tombstone                    Ildefonso. But the one with the
       store lights go off for the night and                                                 is shaped like the legendary                best story is that of Julia, a young
         one of the city’s trendiest little                                                  sword Excalibur. Other names                student leaning against the stone
       bars comes to life in its backroom,                                                   found here include Emilio                       wall by the Palacio Bauer. The
         where Madrid’s in-crowd meets                                                       Huguenin Lhardy, founder of the              bronze statue of a barefoot girl in
        up to sip expensive tipples in an                                                    eponymous Madrid restaurant;                   a skirt and blouse and carrying
             exclusive atmosphere.                                                           three members of the Loewe                        her notes is artist Antonio
                                                                        Enjoy                family, who started the luxury              Santín’s tribute to the first woman
                                                                        a drink              fashion label; Rita Garrido,                to attend the University of Madrid,
                                                                        in the               the first actress of the Teatro               in 1848, who eluded the ban on
                                                                        relaxed,             La Latina, as well as several
                                                                        trendy                                                              female students at the time by
                                                                        ambience             members of the Bauer clan, one                   disguising herself as a man.
                                                                                             of the most powerful families in
                                                                                             nineteenth-century Madrid.

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STUDENT GUIDE! The insider's guide to experiencing the city - Turismo Madrid
The oldest florist shop
                                                                                    à Huertas, 2.
                                                                                    Located on the site of the old San
                                                                                    Sebastián church cemetery is
                                                                                    one of the best-kept secrets of the
                                                                                    Barrio de las Letras: El Jardín del
                                                                                    Ángel, a garden centre and florist
                                                                                    founded in 1889 that claims
                                                                                    never to have closed, even when a
                                                                                    bomb almost destroyed the place
                                                                                    of worship next door. To enter
                                                                                    you pass under a sign bearing
                                                                                    the slogan ‘No dejes de soñar’
                                                                                    (‘Never stop dreaming’), and you
                                                                                    soon realise there’s something
                                                                                    special about this place, even if
                                                                                    you’re not a plant lover. As well
                                                                                    as selling beautiful flowers, it’s a
                                                                                    magical spot where you can relax
                                                                                    admiring one of the century-and-
                                                                                    a-half-old olive trees.

                                                                                    Byzantine strongholds
                                                                                    à Gran Vía de Hortaleza, 48.
                                                                                    The streets of Madrid are full of
                                                                                    surprises that can make even
                                                                                    locals feel as though they’re
                                                                                    thousands of kilometres from
                                                                                    home. One such example is the
                                                                                    commanding golden cupolas
                                                                                    atop the Church of Santa María
                                                                                    Magdalena, a slice of Russia
                                                                                    in the middle of the Hortaleza
                                                                                    neighbourhood. Built in the
                                                                                    Byzantine style, the temple
                                                                                    opened in 2013, becoming only
                                                                                    the second orthodox church in
                                                                                    Madrid after the Greek Orthodox
                                                                                    Cathedral of Santos Andrés and
                                                                                    Demetrio (whose interior is also
                                                                                    well worth a look). The same
                                                                                    style of architecture can be seen
                                                                                    in other buildings such as the
                                                                                    German Friedenskirche (church

                                             A secret                               of peace), a ‘clandestine’ church
                                                                                    that combines Romanesque and

Madrid’s Sistine Chapel                     among the                               Byzantine styles.

                                                                                    The prince’s hideout
à Puebla, 22.
Entirely covered in frescos,
the interior of the Church of
                                           almond trees                             à Plaza de la Paja, 6.
                                                                                    In a corner of Plaza de la Paja in
San Antonio de los Alemanes                          à Alcalá, 502.                 La Latina, a brick wall guards a
is well worth a visit. Painted by       Almost at the end of Calle Alcalá, you      hidden garden, the best-kept
Juan Carreño de Miranda and              can find a park that few Madrileños        secret of the Palacio del Príncipe
Luca Giordano, among others,            or tourists ever visit. La Quinta de los    de Anglona. The prince lived in
the scenes tell the stories of the      Molinos would just be another green         the building in the nineteenth
life and miracles o f St Anthony          space in the city if it weren’t for its   century, and loved walking
of Padua. The temple is part            more than 6,000 almond trees, which         round among the plants. Several
of the hospital that Philip III         are a delight for all five senses when      stone paths lead to a small stone
created in the seventeenth                in bloom throughout February and          fountain at its centre, and there’s
century to attend the sick and           March. The pink-and-white blossom          an iron shelter and a pergola
Portuguese pilgrims, which is              takes over the gardens and their         that’s covered in roses in the
why it was previously known as          heady scent wafts over the walls into       spring. The whole place is shaded
San Antonio de los Portugueses                  the surrounding area.               by large trees, while one of its
before it became the hospital for                                                   corners provides good views of
Madrid’s German community.                                                          the neighbourhood.

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STUDENT GUIDE! The insider's guide to experiencing the city - Turismo Madrid
DISCOVER MADRID

20 great                                                                                                                                                                               09.
                                                                                                                                                                                       Revel in the green zones
                                                                                                                                                                                       From city-centre parks such as

things to do
                                                                                                                                                                                       the Retiro and the Casa de Campo
                                                                                                                                                                                       to the surrounding woods and
                                                                                                                                                                                       mountains such as the Sierra de
                                                                                                                                                                                       Guadarrama, Madrid is full of
                                                                                                                                                                                       natural treasures. What’s more,
                                                                                                                                                                                       it caters for every type of activity,
                                                                                                                                                                                       from hiking in La Pedriza, skiing
                                                                                                                                                                                       in Navacerrada or touring
Here’s our guide to the city’s                                                                                                                                                         El Pardo, to name but a few.

essentials – a score of must-do
activities including partying,
exploring, eating and more!
                                                                                                                                                                                       10.
                                                                                                                                                                                       Take a selfie by
                                                                                                                                                                                       El Oso y el Madroño
                                                                                                                                                                                       This statue of a tree-climbing

01.                                                                              05.                                                                                                   bear is a well-known symbol of
                                                                                                                                                                                       Madrid, and a meeting point
                                                                                                                                                                                       for lost tourists and friends.
                                                                                 Explore Gran Vía                                                                                      Designed by Antonio Navarro
Try the traditional                                                              Running from the famous                                                                               Santafé, the sculpture is
Madrid cocido                                                                    Metrópolis building to                                                                                4m tall, weighs 20 tonnes
A hearty stew of pasta,                                                          Plaza de España, this wide                                                                            and sits in the Puerta del Sol.
chickpeas, assorted                                                              street is the main tourist
cuts of meat and broth,                                                          route through the city.
cocido is Madrid’s most                                                          Lined with shops, bars and
popular traditional                                                              even a casino, the just over
dish. Served in many                                                             1km-long thoroughfare is
of the city’s restaurants,                                                       due for renovation between
this is a speciality
everybody should try                    03.                                      2018 and 2019. Don’t
                                                                                 forget to look up and take in
and will probably love.
                                        Scoff chocolate con
                                        churros in San Ginés
                                                                                 its imposing buildings and
                                                                                 rooftop statues.                06.                           07.
02.                                     This chocolatería first opened
                                        over a hundred years ago in a
                                        narrow street between Puerta del
                                                                                                                 See the skyscrapers
                                                                                                                 Madrid is no skyscraper
                                                                                                                 city like New York, but for
                                                                                                                                               Go to a concert (or two)
                                                                                                                                               The city’s music scene is a perfect
Take in a show                          Sol and Plaza de Ópera. Today                                            the last several years it     fusion of concerts by big-name
It’s no surprise that Gran              it’s Madrid’s most famous café                                           has been home to four         international groups playing to
Vía is known as the ‘Spanish            for hot chocolate and churros –                                          impressive, vertigo-          audiences of 15,000 at the WiZink
Broadway’. Most of the                  delicious deep-fried strands of                                          inducing towers. The old      Center and gigs performed by
musicals that come to the               dough perfect for dunking – and                                          Torre Picasso and Torre de    alternative, underground and
city play on its grand stages,          a meeting point for all sorts                                            Madrid are dwarfed by this    jazz musicians at intimate venues
from ‘The Lion King’ to ‘Dirty          of partygoers trying to summon                                           quartet of newcomers:         to just a handful of faithful fans.
Dancing’. So let the magic of           the strength to get to bed at the                                        the Espacio, PwC, Cepsa       There’s live music every day of the
theatre carry you away…                 end of a long night out.                                                 and the Torre de Cristal,     year so nobody has to miss out,
                                                                                                                 which at 249m is Spain’s      whatever their tastes.
                                                                                                                 tallest building.

                                        04.                                                                                                    08.
                                        Go shopping                                                                                            Sample a squid baguette
                                        It doesn’t matter what your                                                                            This seafood sandwich is another
                                        budget is, Madrid has a                                                                                traditional dish, though nobody
                                        shopping experience for                                                                                quite knows why, given that the
                                        everyone. From the cheap high-                                                                         city is 300km away from the
                                        street stores on Gran Vía to the                                                                       nearest coastline. But typical it is,
                                        alternative shops in Malasaña                                                                          and no self-respecting Madrileño
                                        and the exclusive boutiques                                                                            (or visitor) goes long without
                                        on the Golden Mile, this city is                                                                       eating un bocata de calamares
                                        perfect for retail therapy.                                                                            somewhere around Plaza Mayor.

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13.
                                             See the city’s most
                                             famous buildings
                                             From rationalism to
                                             neoclassicism, Madrid’s
                                             architecture is a living story
                                             of the city’s evolution over the
                                             centuries. Some unmissable
                                             examples are the beautiful
                                                                                       16.
                                             Palacio de Longoria, the cupola           Admire the art
                                             of the Basílica de San Francisco          A wander along the
                                             el Grande and the impressive              famous Paseo del Arte is
                                             Palacio de Cibeles.                       a compulsory part of any
                                                                                       visit to Madrid. The Prado,

                                             14.                                       Reina Sofía and Thyssen-
                                                                                       Bornemisza galleries are
                                                                                       the three epicentres of
                                             Discover the Chueca                       art and three of the most
                                             neighbourhood                             important museums in
                                             Madrid is a very gay-friendly             Spain. But don’t miss out
                                             city, but if there’s an area that         on the plethora of small
                                             most embraces diversity,                  galleries in the Barrio de
                                             it’s Chueca, where there are many         las Letras and Salamanca
                                             shops, bars, restaurants and              districts, either.
                                             clubs aimed specifically at
                                             the LGBTI community. Madrid’s
                                             annual Gay Pride festival is also
                                             centred on this area.

                                                15.
                                                Have a beer!
                                                If Madrileños have a
                                                favourite way to spend
                                                an evening, it’s enjoying
                                                a drink and a bite to eat

11.                                             with friends, which is
                                                perhaps why the range
                                                of food in the city’s bars
                                                                                 17.                                        19.
Enjoy a bird’s-eye view                         and restaurant is so             Cycle along Madrid Río                     Shop in the Rastro
The Madrid skyline is one                       wide. The weather is             The relocation underground                 Madrid’s oldest and most famous
of the most beautiful in                        good enough for terraces         of part of Madrid’s main ring              flea market is a must-see for
Spain, and the perfect                          to be open practically           road has given way to a large              visitors. Every Sunday in and
place to appreciate it is                       all year round and, from         10km-long park along the                   around Calle Ribera de Curtidores
the roof of the Círculo                         La Latina to Chamberí,           Manzanares river. It’s a pleasure          in Embajadores, dozens of stalls
de Bellas Artes in Calle                        there are always plenty          to ride or walk along its banks,           set up to sell second-hand clothes,
Alcalá. From there, you                         of groups enjoying               where you can see children                 vinyl, jewellery and just about
can survey the whole city,                      lively conversations             playing in its playgrounds and, if         anything you can imagine. Once
its great avenues, famous                       over coffees, beers or           you fancy, stop for a break at one         done, head to a nearby bar to
monuments and lush parks.                       something stronger.              of the cafés on the way.                   peruse your buys.

12.                                                                              18.                                        20.
Celebrate the local fiestas                                                      Step on to kilometre 0                     Escape the centre
Every summer, the celebrations                                                   A small, easy-to-miss plaque just          Stroll around the gardens
dovetail into each other as the                                                  opposite the Real Casa de Correos          at Monte del Pardo, visit
city’s neighbourhoods mark                                                       in Puerta del Sol marks the spot           the immense El Escorial
the feast days of their local                                                    where all Spain’s roads begin,             monastery, or explore
saints. From San Cayetano to the                                                 known locally as kilometre 0.              the Palacio Real de Aranjuez
Verbena de la Paloma, concerts,                                                  Many locals have a photo                   and its famous World Heritage
dancing and fun are what it’s all                                                of this small square of pavement           gardens... There are numerous
about. And don’t forget the main                                                 with feet walking across it                places worth seeing outside
fiesta for Madrid’s own patron                                                   in an album somewhere, so                  the city centre but still within
saint, San Isidro, on May 15.                                                    make sure you get yours, too.              the Madrid region.

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Jardín del Marqués
    Quinta de la Fuente del Berro                                                                                                                                                       de Casa Riera
                                                                                                                                                                                        Legend has it that at the end of
    A magical idyll where the water burbles over the falls, and the                                                                                                                     the nineteenth century a man
    smell of freshly cut grass hangs everywhere. Two moss-covered                                                                                                                       and a woman were found dead
    stone staircases are obscured by the creepers on each side of                                                                                                                       on the site where the house of
    the stream, and looking out over the lake, you feel as if a court                                                                                                                   the Marquis of the Casa Riera
    of nymphs with flower crowns round their hair were singing in                                                                                                                       was built. A luxurious mansion
    your ear. It’s just a few steps from the M-30 and right next to the                                                                                                                 that was barely ever inhabited,
    Torrespaña, but you’d never know it. M: Manuel Becerra.                                                                                                                            it includes a small landscaped
                                                                                                                                                                                        garden with a pond and boxed
                                                                                                                                                                                        hedges. It’s situated just in front of
                                                                                                                                                                                        the Círculo de Bellas Artes.
                                                                                                                                                                                        M: Banco de España.

                                                                                                                                                                                              Museo Sorolla
                                                                                                                                                                                              Since he started painting
                                                                                                                                                                                              gardens in 1906, Spanish
                                                                                                                                                                                              artist Joaquín Sorolla always
                                                                                                                                                                                              wanted to create one of his
                                                                                                                                                                                              own. And when he got the
                                                                                                                                                                                              chance, he designed this
                                                                                                                                                                                              splendid example divided

                                                                                                                                                           FOTOGRAFÍAS: ALFREDO ARIAS
                                                                                                                                                                                              into three spaces inspired
                                                                                                                                                                                              by the Garden of Troy
                                                                                                                                                                                              in Sevillle’s Alcázar, the
                                                                                                                                                                                              Alhambra’s Generalife and a
                                                                                                                                                                                              final one centred on a pond.
                                                                                                                                                                                              M: Gregorio Marañón.

  Garden city
Waterfalls, olive groves, Tyrolean
                                                                                                             Campo del Moro

houses and peacocks – Madrid is full
of incredible green spaces to explore

IN THE HEART of Madrid, among           Austrian childhood, Emir Ali ibn                                                                                                                         The pond in the
buildings, avenues and squares,
sit hidden parks, gardens, groves
                                        Yusuf had set up camp here in an
                                        ill-fated attempt to reconquer the
                                                                                                                                                                                                 Museo Sorolla
and other green spaces that would       city. Now you have to escape the                                                                                                                         garden is
look more in place in an adventure      rectilinear order of the fountains
movie or tropical landscape than a      and flowerbeds and get deep into                                                                                                                         dominated by
European capital.
   One good example is the
                                        the undergrowth to evoke the
                                        memory of that event to which the
                                                                                                                                                                                                 the Fountain
Jardines del Campo del Moro             site owes its name.                                                                                                                                      of Secrets
(Metro Príncipe Pío), a unique             But this is just one indication of
site right next to the Royal Palace     the hidden splendour the capital        Olivar de Castillejo
where peacocks roam peacefully          has to offer. From concealed parks      A wild garden where sandy paths disappear among the blue-grey tops
among the trees and paths. Seven        to secret gardens and bucolic           of the olive trees and the breeze tastes of eucalyptus. Napoleon camped
centuries before Habsburg Queen         corners bursting with green, these      here when this plot of cultivated land was on the outskirts of the city
Maria Christina ordered built the       are some of the Edenic spaces you       and it later became a favourite of intellectuals such as the poet Dámaso
park’s Tyrolean-style house (see        can enjoy without setting foot          Alonso. These days it’s only open to the public in summer, when there
central image) as a reminder of her     outside Madrid.                         are concerts and open-air film screenings. M: Cuzco.

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DID YOU KNOW...
                                             Prado Museum

Unesco
here we go
The Paseo del Prado and
the Retiro could soon join the
organisation’s prestigious
list of World Heritage Sites

EVEN THOUGH THE Madrid region is
already home to several places recognised
as World Heritage Sites by Unesco (the
United Nations Educational, Scientific
and Cultural Organization), including El
Escorial and Aranjuez, until now the city
centre has yet to get a look-in.
  But in April Spain’s National Heritage
Board, which comprises the heritage
chiefs of Spain’s 17 autonomous
regions and two autonomous cities
(Ceuta and Melilla), decided to
put forward the Paseo del Prado
between Cibeles and Plaza
de Atocha, the whole of the         The Retiro park
Retiro Park and the Barrio de       boating lake                                                   Museums; Spain’s Congress of Deputies; the
los Jerónimos for inclusion on                                                                     Palace and Ritz hotels and the Royal Botanical
the organisation’s prestigious                                                                    Gardens, among many others, as well as the
international list. The hope is                                                                   Ministries of Agriculture, Fisheries and Food
that they will be added as World                                                                  and Health, Consumption and Social Welfare.
Heritage Sites in the Cultural                                                                      To that list you can also add several well-
Landscape category.                                                                               known monuments, including the Puerta
   One of the key elements of the bid                                                             de Alcalá; the Cibeles, Apollo and Neptuno
is the fact that it is citizens who have                                                          fountains; and, in the Retiro, the Alcachofa
been responsible for allowing the spirit                                                          fountain, the Obelisco a los Caídos and the
of the sites to live on over time, turning                                                        Alfonso XII monument. In total, there are more
them into stages of huge showings of public                                                       than 21 objects of cultural interest here.
participation – from the declaration of the                                                                             Once the central
Second Republic and the protests against the          place of leisure since the fifteenth                           government submits the
February 23 1981 coup, to the Feria del Libro         century. It was Carlos III who         The Paseo               application to Unesco,
book fair, numerous victory parades by Real           eventually commissioned it to be                               Madrileños will have to
Madrid and Atlético Madrid football clubs and         decorated with trees and fountains.    del Prado               wait until 2020 for the
the Rock ‘n’ Roll Madrid Marathon.
   The authorities also feel the areas represent
                                                      On top of this, the area is also
                                                      home to many major institutions,
                                                                                             was one of              institution’s final decision.
                                                                                                                     Among the objects of
the “exceptional universal value” that Unesco         including the Palacio de Cibeles,      the first               cultural interest in Spain
requires in the way they unite culture and
nature. Situated in the heart of the city, the
                                                      the current home of Madrid City
                                                      Hall; the Bank of Spain; the Casa
                                                                                             tree-lined              already included in the
                                                                                                                     Unesco list are the Alhambra
sites cover 190 hectares, 75 percent of which         de América; the headquarters           urban walks             in Granada, the city of Ávila,
are green spaces. The Paseo del Prado was one         of the Spanish army (Palacio                                   the Altamira caves, the
of the first tree-lined urban walk in Europe,         de Buenavista); the Thyssen-           in Europe               Doñana National Park
though Madrileños have been using it as a             Bornemisza, Prado and Reina Sofía                              and Lugo’s city wall.

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The best of
                                                          Lavapiés
                                                          This neighbourhood is a melting
                                                          pot and symbolic of the fusion
                                                          of ethnic identities and cultures
                                                          that has happened in Madrid in
                                                          the last few years. It’s always been
                                                          an unassuming place, inhabited,

the barrios
                                                          until the 1980s, by older people
                                                          who lived in corralas – the
                                                          corridor-style housing so typical
                                                          of old Madrid. Nowadays, thanks
                                                          to rents that are slightly more
                                                          accessible than in other areas
                                                          of the city and its multicultural
                                                          character, it attracts a lot of
                                                          young people who share it with
                                                          neighbours of up to 88 different
                                                          nationalities. Indian restaurants             gather in front of its clock tower
                                                          stand next to Arab barber shops               to see in the new year. This
                                                          and classic Madrid taverns. This              square hosts a famous statue
                                                          neighbourhood is also famous                  of a bear and a strawberry tree
Here’s a brief guide to our favourite parts of Madrid’s   for the San Lorenzo fiesta, which             that appears on the city’s coat of
neighbourhoods, with everything from fiestas to           takes place every August, and for
                                                          events like Tapapiés, a tapas route
                                                                                                        arms. It is also here that many of
                                                                                                        Madrid’s most important streets
history and monuments, plus how to get to each one        that is held in October, mainly               begin, including Calles Mayor
                                                          in the bars and on the terraces of            and Arenal and Carrera de San
                                                          Calle Argumosa, one of the area’s             Jerónimo. Nearby lies one of the
                                                          liveliest streets. Lavapiés also has          city’s major shopping areas, Calle
                                                          cultural hotspots like Tabacalera,            Preciados, which converges with
                                                          a place for collective cultural               Gran Vía, an icon of the city since

                                                                                                                                                 © FEDERICO JORD
                                                          expressions, and Teatro                       its construction in 1910. It’s home
                                                          Valle-Inclán, which                           to cinemas, theatres, department
                                                          is managed by the Spanish                     stores and some of the city’s
                                                          National Drama Centre.                        most exclusive shops, as well as a
                                                          M: Tirso de Molina, Lavapiés, Embajadores.   number of striking buildings
                                                                                                        such as the Metrópolis and                                 Chamberí is a     La Latina
                                                          Sol-Gran Vía                                  the Carrión, and Madrid’s first
                                                                                                        skyscrapers, the Telefónica
                                                                                                                                                                   fashionable       Fun and tradition are the defining
                                                                                                                                                                                     characteristics of this city centre
                                                          Although it isn’t a neighbourhood             building and Torre de Madrid.                              neighbourhood     neighbourhood. La Latina is part of
                                                          in the official sense, Sol is the true                                                                                     old Madrid, blessed with winding
                                                          centre of Madrid, and Puerta del
                                                                                                        M: Sol, Gran Vía.
                                                                                                                                                                   for dining out,   medieval streets that are broken up
                                                          Sol is the starting point for the
                                                          whole Spanish road network. It’s
                                                          a meeting place for locals and
                                                                                                        Chamberí
                                                                                                        From hunting grounds to
                                                                                                                                                                   thanks to the
                                                                                                                                                                   buzzing Calle
                                                                                                                                                                                     by small squares like Plaza de la Paja,
                                                                                                                                                                                     Plaza de San Andrés and Plaza del
                                                                                                                                                                                     Humilladero. You’ll find the remains
                                                          tourists alike, due to its location
                                                          and the fact that it’s a transport
                                                                                                        aristocratic residences, Chamberí
                                                                                                        has always been a neighbourhood
                                                                                                                                                                   Ponzano and       of the city’s ancient walls along
                                                                                                                                                                                     with churches both large and small
                                                          hub. The oldest building in the               in constant evolution. A                                   its traditional   dotted haphazardly along its streets,
                                                          area is the former Post Office,               traditionally stately suburb, with                                           as well as the Segovia viaduct and
                                                          known as Casa de Correos, which               its wide streets and expensive                             taverns           Puerta de Toledo, which mark the
                                                          is now the headquarters of the                apartments set away from the                                                 boundaries of the neighbourhood.
                                                          Presidency of the Autonomous                  tourist crush of the city centre, in                                         Mercado de la Cebada, one of
                                                          Community of Madrid. On                       recent years Chamberí has become                                             Madrid’s largest markets, is the
                                                          December 31 hundreds of people                one of the city’s most popular areas                                         perfect combination of tradition and
                                                                                                        for eating out. And that’s not only                                          modernity. La Latina is a favourite
                                                                                                        thanks to the revitalisation of Calle                                        place for a few beers at the weekend,
                                                                                                        Ponzano – a must for all gourmet                                             or heading down streets like Cava
                                                                                                        fans – but also due to the survival                                          Alta and Cava Baja for a vermouth
                                                                                                        of the neighbourhood’s traditional                                           and some huevos estrellados, a
                                                                                                        restaurants and taverns. Its                                                 delicious combination of lightly
                                                                                                        architecture is also worth                                                   fried eggs and crispy chips, at Casa
                                                                                                        mentioning, embodied in squares                                              Lucio. In addition to iconic spots
                                                                                                        like Plaza Olavide and Plaza                                                 like the Basilica of San Francisco
                                                                                                        Chamberí, as well as in cultural                                             el Grande, the Teatro de la Latina,
                                                                                                        venues like the Teatros del                                                  Jardines de las Vistillas and Campo
                                                                                                        Canal, the Museo Sorolla,                                                    de Cebada, La Latina is famous
                                                                                                        the Geominero and Andén                                                      for the Verbena de la Paloma, a
                                                                                                        Cero, and its attractive shopping                                            traditional fiesta that’s celebrated
                                                                                                        streets like Calle Zurbano.                                                  in August with music, chotis
                                                                                                        M: Quevedo, Ríos Rosas, Canal,                                              dances and much more.
                                                                                                        Iglesia, Islas Filipinas.                                                    M: La Latina, Puerta de Toledo.

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Las Letras
Once home to some of the
                                        (the Museum of Romanticism),
                                        impressive buildings (the                                                                              Emerging artists
great writers of the Golden Age
of Spanish literature such as
                                        Palacio de Longoria and the
                                        headquarters of the COAM
                                                                                                                                               have chosen
Cervantes and Quevedo, the              architects’ association), trendy                                                                       Carabanchel as
Barrio de las Letras also hosts         and gay-oriented stores (Berkana
interesting galleries and antiques      bookshop), and gourmet markets                                                                         the place to set up
shops, and part of the famous Art
Walk that takes in the Thyssen-
                                        where you can eat tapas (Mercado
                                        de San Antón). During the day it’s
                                                                                                                                               their workshops
Bornemisza, the Reina Sofía and         perfect for a stroll and popping                                                                       and organise
Prado museums as well as the
CaixaForum cultural centre with
                                        into the shops on Calle Barquillo
                                        and Calle Hortaleza. At night,
                                                                                                                                               cultural activities
its spectacular vertical garden.        you can dine in one of the area’s
The neighbourhood’s main                numerous restaurants, which
thoroughfare is Calle Huertas,          cater for all tastes and budgets.
and on its pavements you can            Afterwards, sample the Chueca
read quotations from great works        nightlife, which is among the                                                                       immigrants who’ve made their
of Spanish literature. It’s home        liveliest in Madrid, with plenty                                                                    home there, opening cybercafés,
to tapas bars and party venues          of gay bars that are also hetero-                                                                   hairdressers, supermarkets and                                                                              the Marquis of Salamanca as
where young people gather at            friendly, including Delirio,                                                                        restaurants, all buzzing to the                                                                             a residential area for the city’s
weekends for drinks with friends.       Fraggel Pop, Why Not, the rooftop                                                                   sounds of reggaeton, bachata                                                                                aristocratic and bourgeois classes.
Plaza de Santa Ana, with its            at the Óscar Room Mate hotel, and                                                                   and trap. This is a decidedly                                                                               Nowadays, it’s also the focus of
large terraces next to the Teatro       the famous Studio 54.                                                                               ungentrified area with more                                                                                 business and commercial activity.
Español, and Spain’s Congress           M: Chueca/Gran Vía.                                                                                affordable housing and smaller,                                                                             This is where you’ll find Madrid’s
building are other iconic spots.                                                                                                            cheaper shops and businesses.                                                                               so-called Golden Mile, where
One of the major events to be held
here is DecorAcción (in June),
an enormous interior design fair
                                        Malasaña
                                        Next to Chueca, Malasaña owes
                                                                                                                                            M: Cuatro Caminos, Alvarado,
                                                                                                                                            Estrecho, Tetuán, Valdeacederas.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        streets like Calle Serrano, Calle
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        Goya, Calle Ortega y Gasset, Calle
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        Claudio Coello and Callejón de
in which the neighbourhood’s
shops set up street stalls selling
decorative objects and antiques.
                                        its name to Manuela Malasaña,
                                        the heroine of the May 2, 1808
                                        uprising against the French
                                                                                                                                            Carabanchel
                                                                                                                                            This area began as one of the
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        Jorge Juan are home to luxury
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        fashion, accessory and jewellery
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        brands. Among its biggest
M: Antón Martín, Atocha, Sevilla.      forces then occupying Madrid.                                                                       city’s most traditional working-                                                                            attractions are the National
                                        Led by Luís Daoíz and Pedro                                                                         class districts, although it’s                                                                              Archaeological Museum, the Juan

Chueca
It’s Madrid’s main LGBTI
                                        Velarde, the event is important in
                                        the neighbourhood because its
                                        focal point was the old Parque de
                                                                                                                                            recently evolved into a trendy
                                                                                                                                            neighbourhood where alternative
                                                                                                                                            and emerging artists have set
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        March Foundation, the Carlos
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        de Amberes Foundation, and
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        the Lázaro Galdiano Museum, as
neighbourhood and is known              Artillería de Monteleón, located                                                                    up their workshops near Calle                                                                               well as leading art galleries and,
throughout the world for its
tolerant and diverse atmosphere.
                                        where the Plaza del Dos de Mayo
                                        now stands. In the square, you
                                                                                                                                            Urgel and Calle Oporto and
                                                                                                                                            organise cultural activities such        Moncloa                                         The Usera
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        of course the WiZink Center, the
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        city’s biggest venue for concerts
What only 20 years ago was a            can see an arch from the old                                                                        as Artbanchel each May. It’s an          Moncloa is a stately                                               and shows. It’s also home to some
decidedly marginal area has now         military barracks, as well as a                                                                     area that offers some real treats        neighbourhood where family                      neighbourhood      of the best restaurants in Madrid,
been completely transformed,
home to all types of bars, famous
                                        monument paying tribute to the
                                        two captains. What was once the
                                                                                                                                            for visitors, including the Palacio
                                                                                                                                            de Vistalegre (a former bullring
                                                                                                                                                                                     houses sit alongside halls of
                                                                                                                                                                                     residence for Complutense
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     is a must-visit,   including Zalacaín, Ramón Freixa
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        and Kabuki Wellington.
squares (Plaza de Chueca and            neighbourhood of La Movida, the                                                                     that’s now a concert venue) and          University students. It’s a nice                especially         M: Serrano, Velázquez, Goya, Lista.
Plaza de Pedro Zerolo), terraces,       cultural and social revolution that                                                                 La Finca de Vistalegre, an old           area to walk around, especially
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     during the
art galleries, cultural venues          emerged in Madrid in the 1980s,
                                        is now the city’s trendy hipster
                                        area par excellence. It’s a paradise
                                                                                                                                            recreation ground that in its
                                                                                                                                            period of greatest splendour
                                                                                                                                            boasted two palaces, a navigable
                                                                                                                                                                                     along Paseo de Pintor Rosales, the
                                                                                                                                                                                     Templo de Debod and the Parque
                                                                                                                                                                                     del Oeste, which is linked to Casa
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     colourful          Usera
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        This neighbourhood in the south
                                        for foodies and fans of organic                               Caminos, Castillejos, Almenara,       river, fountains and peacocks. It’s      de Campo via the Teleférico cable               Chinese            of Madrid was, until barely a
                                        produce, and full of modern
                                        businesses such as cool barbers,
                                                                                  Malasaña is         Valdeacederas and Berruguete,
                                                                                                      and is divided into two very
                                                                                                                                            also a favourite haunt of heavy
                                                                                                                                            metal and hard rock fans, who
                                                                                                                                                                                     car. It begins at Plaza de España,
                                                                                                                                                                                     where you can see the Edificio
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     New Year           decade ago, just one of the city’s
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        many working-class districts.
                                        cupcake stores, and vintage cafés         one of the city’s   distinct parts by Calle Bravo         head to clubs such as Grotto 77          España and the Torre de Madrid                  celebrations       But in recent years there has been
                                        that sit alongside traditional bars
                                        and markets such as the Mercado
                                                                                  trendiest areas,    Murillo, one of Madrid’s most
                                                                                                      important shopping streets.
                                                                                                                                            and Sala Live, and there’s a wide
                                                                                                                                            variety of eating options, too, from
                                                                                                                                                                                     skyscrapers, and finishes at the
                                                                                                                                                                                     famous Faro de Moncloa, one of
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        an influx of Chinese immigrants
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        who have transformed it into
                                        de Barceló, which now boasts a new        a paradise for      The area bordering Paseo de la        fried chicken to Peruvian and            the city’s best-known viewpoints.                                  Madrid’s own Chinatown. Shops
                                        modern building and an attractive                             Castellana includes the Azca          Colombian specialities served            The neighbourhood is a perfect                                     of all kinds with signs in Chinese
                                        terrace. Strolling around Malasaña,       foodies and         business complex, one of Madrid’s     up in the restaurants opened by          blend of residential and student                                   have replaced the traditional
                                        and especially along its famous
                                        shopping street, Calle Fuencarral,
                                                                                  hipsters            major financial centres and home
                                                                                                      to several skyscrapers, including
                                                                                                                                            members of the neighbourhood’s
                                                                                                                                            immigrant communities. It’s
                                                                                                                                                                                     life, with shops, hotels, parks,
                                                                                                                                                                                     monuments and an active
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        haberdasheries and markets,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        and even the area’s older bars
                                        is to experience a young,                                     the Torre Picasso. Here you’ll also   another of the city’s emerging           university social scene, especially                                now employ Chinese waiters.
                                        cosmopolitan neighbourhood full                               find expensive apartments, the        areas, as it’s located near the          in the Argüelles area. The Museo                                   That makes it the best place in
                                        of life and a party atmosphere. It’s                          Moda Shopping Centre and the          centre, bordered by Madrid Río           del Traje, the Museo de América                                    the city to try authentic oriental
                                        also a good place for a night out,                            Calle Orense shopping street,         and Casa de Campo, but still offers      and the Museo Cerralbo are also to                                 food at the plentiful restaurants
                                        home to legendary venues such as                              alongside the Nuevos Ministerios      affordable housing. Finally, don’t       be found in this appealing area.                                   with menus in Chinese offering
                                        Penta and Tupperware.                                         metro and train station, and the      forget that it’s also home to both       M: Plaza de España, Moncloa, Argüelles.                           specialities from little-known
                                        M: Tribunal, Noviciado, Bilbao.                              world’s biggest Zara clothes store.   the Pradera and the Ermita de                                                                               regions; happily, the high quality

                                        Tetuán
                                                                                                      The other part of the district,
                                                                                                      which lies on the opposite side of
                                                                                                      Calle Bravo Murillo, is known as
                                                                                                                                            San Isidro, the epicentre of the
                                                                                                                                            festivities honouring Madrid’s
                                                                                                                                            patron saint each May 15.
                                                                                                                                                                                     Salamanca
                                                                                                                                                                                     This is Madrid’s most exclusive
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        of the dishes is not reflected in the
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        prices. It’s a must-visit, especially
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        during the colourful Chinese New
                                        Tetuán is made up of six different                            the Little Caribbean because of       M: Marqués de Vadillo, Urgel, Oporto,   neighbourhood. It was built                                        Year celebrations.
                                        areas: Bellas Vistas, Cuatro                                  the large number of Dominican         Carabanchel, Vistalegre.                 in the nineteenth century by                                       M: Usera.

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Austrias
In its monuments, churches and
palaces Madrid’s most historic
neighbourhood hides the
secrets of the former monarchs
who once inhabited them. Its
name dates from the days when
the Habsburg dynasty ruled
Spain and Charles I ordered the
construction of squares and
monumental buildings in the
city. Later on, under Philip II,
work began to remodel the old
Plaza Arrabal, which became the
present-day Plaza Mayor. From
the Almudena Cathedral to the
Plaza de la Villa and the Teatro
Real, the architectural beauty of
this area attracts a large number                                                                        the old Matadero de Madrid
of tourists who gaze in wonder                                                                           slaughterhouse in Legazpi, which
at the work of the ancestors of                                                                          is now one of the city’s leading
today’s city residents. The area’s                                                                       cultural centres, and the Museo
restaurants serve traditional                                                                            del Ferrocarril, which holds the
cocido madrileño, though there                                                                           monthly Mercado de Motores
are also more modern places,                                                                             flea market. Other recommended
such as the remodelled Mercado                                                                           spots include Madrid Río,
de San Miguel, while the                                                                                 with its green spaces, iconic
Jardines de Sabatini provide a                                                                           bridges and kids’ playgrounds,
haven for tired sightseers                                                                               and the Parque de Enrique
who can rest on the shaded                                                                               Tierno Galván, which is home
benches beside its fountains.                                                                            to the Madrid Planetarium and
M: Sol, La Latina, Puerta de Toledo.                                                                    some of the city’s best music
                                                                                                         festivals such as Tomavistas

Vallecas
Vallecas is another working-
                                                                                                         and Brunch-in The Park.
                                                                                                         M: Delicias, Legazpi, Arganzuela-Planetario.

class neighbourhood that is
emerging as an alternative area
to visit, thanks to its rich mix of
                                                                                                         Conde Duque
                                                                                                         This central residential
different cultures. It’s located                                                                         neighbourhood has been lent
a short journey from Atocha by                                                                           a new lease of life thanks to the
public transport and its main                                                                            activity generated by its main
thoroughfare stretches from                                                                              attraction: the Conde Duque
Puente de Vallecas to the Avenida                                                                        Cultural Centre. This former
de la Albufera, a street lined with                                                                      barracks has been transformed
small, cheap shops that ends at         here, from traditional taverns to                                into a base for the area’s most
the Cerro del Tío Pío (or ‘seven tits
park’, to give it its rather vulgar
                                        Ecuadorian and Chinese cuisine.
                                        The neighbourhood has grown
                                                                                     The Conde           important cultural activities:
                                                                                                         it’s a summer cinema, an
local nickname), which affords          so much that, as well as Puente              Duque Cultural      exhibition space, a theatre, a
some spectacular views of the           de Vallecas, the Villa de Vallecas                               show hall and more. Like other
city. At night, Vallecas is Madrid’s    old town also now has its own new            Centre has          neighbourhoods in downtown
heavy metal capital with a large
number of bars and clubs playing
                                        housing development. One of the
                                        area’s most popular celebrations
                                                                                     revitalised this    Madrid, its older establishments
                                                                                                         now compete with newly opened
hard rock. In terms of food,            consists of the simulation of a              neighbourhood       businesses. But they all share
you’ll find a bit of everything         naval battle, which sees people
                                        take to the streets with water
                                                                                     close to Malasaña   similar characteristics: friendly
                                                                                                         service, artisanal products a long
                                        pistols and balloons. It’s also a big                            way from those you find in the
                                        footballing area, home to Rayo                                   big high-street chains (there’s
                                        Vallecano’s ground.                                              no Zara here) and thoughtful
                                        M: Villa de Vallecas, Congosto.                                 decoration. You’ll find bars,
                                                                                                         restaurants and shops you’ll be

                                        Arganzuela
                                        This district is made up of the
                                                                                                         hankering to go back to, even
                                                                                                         before you leave them, as well
                                                                                                         as everything from vinyl and
                                        Acacias, Paseo Imperial, Legazpi,                                menswear to gourmet food
                                        Palos de Moguer, Delicias and                                    stores and art galleries. The best
                                        Atocha neighbourhoods. Its                                       thing to do is surrender to its
                                        historic buildings are almost all                                streets and discover everything
                                        in the rationalist, neo-Mudéjar                                  the area has to offer.
                                        and industrial styles, including                                 M: Noviciado, San Bernardo, Plaza España.

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Bocata
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    The typical Madrid
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    sandwich is made with
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    a small baguette; ask
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    for one by saying Un
                                                                                                       A practical                                                                                                                  bocata, por favor. A key
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    expression for ordering
                                                                                                        glossary                                                                                                                    tapas in the city
                                                                                                        of typical
                                                                                                       words and
                                                                                                      expressions
                                                                                                      from Madrid

                                                                                                                                                                                                 Tío/tía
                                                                                                                                                                                           No, in this case it’s not your                                                       Flipar
                                                                                                                                                                                           aunt or uncle. Among young                                                           Also common is flipar,
                                                                                                                                                                                              people, the words tío and                                                         or flipar en colores. A
                                                                                                                                                                                             tía can be used at random                                                          synonym of alucinar,
                                                                                                                                                                                             at the end of almost every                                                         it expresses (huge)
                                                                                                                                                                                             sentence, in the same way                                                          amazement.
                                                                                                                                                                                           you might say ‘mate’, ‘man’,
                                                                                                                                                                                             or ‘love’. Tío is directed at
Daily life in Madrid means learning its language and forms                                                                                                                                  men and tía at women, and
of expression. The city is famous for its colloquialisms                                                                                                                                   phrases like ¿Qué pasa tío?
                                                                                                                                                                                              and Joé, tía are common
and very peculiar slang that set it apart from other Spanish                                                                                                                                    parts of the everyday
towns, and knowing some of these words will help you                                                                                                                                        informal conversations you
feel part of the city, and give the locals a happy surprise                                                                                                                                       hear on the street.

Molar                                   Mazo                                                       A pachas                             Pasar                               No te rayes                                                                    Chulapo
Molar is something that’s said a
lot, especially by young people.
                                        If mola is ‘I like it’, mazo is
                                        ‘a lot’. So to say you ‘like
                                                                                Guay               In Madrid a pachas is used
                                                                                                   when you share something with
                                                                                                                                        You don’t always use the verb
                                                                                                                                        pasar when you’re talking about
                                                                                                                                                                            No te rayes is a phrase that has
                                                                                                                                                                            nothing to do with lines (rayes),
                                                                                                                                                                                                                              Currar                       You might not hear this word every
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           day, but you should know it. The term
                                                                              This means ‘cool’,                                                                                                                                Ir a currar is a
It means that something pleases         something a lot’, it’s mola           and it’s used when   someone else or several other        throwing a ball to someone or       but is instead used to tell                      less formal way of            chulapo comes from the Spanish
you greatly, and is more informal       mazo – one of the most                Madrileños like or   people. For instance, when you’re    entering a room. If you hear        someone not to get annoyed,                      saying ir a trabajar          zarzuela light operas of the late
than the normal Spanish verb            common local colloquial                are impressed by    eating out with a group of people    a Madrileño say yo paso in          upset or stressed by something.                    – ‘to go to work’.          nineteenth and early twentieth
gustar. For example, if you see         expressions. The word mazo             something. It’s a   and the time comes to pay the        a conversation, it probably         If a friend has a problem, you                    El curro means el            centuries, particularly the well-
something nice, that surprises          has several meanings, though,          word that’s been    bill, you might hear someone say     means they don’t fancy doing        can use the expression to try                     trabajo in Spain,            known ‘La Verbena de la Paloma’.
you or makes you smile, the             so you need to be careful. It’s         used by several    ‘pagamos a pachas’, which means      whatever’s being talked about       to make them feel better or                         but watch out,             It’s the name of the typical suit worn
thing to say is ¡cómo mola!, ¡me        also a mallet, and can mean a            generations       ‘let’s split it (equally) between    – they’re passing on it. It’s the   to play down the situation. If                   because ‘Curro’ is            at some of Madrid’s most popular
mola!, or ¡mola mucho!, instead         disappointment or a negative             of locals but     us’. You can also make a bet a       most informal way to decline an     someone’s worried about an                        also a shortened             festivals, but it’s also used to describe
of ¡cómo me gusta!, which               action. Dar un mazazo is to             continues to be    pachas, which means sharing          invitation or say you don’t want    exam, for example, you could                      form of the name             an archetypal Madrileño – a bit
sounds less natural. It can be          disappoint or upset somebody,          popular and very    any winnings. Or when you go for     to join in with something. It’s     say, tío, no te rayes, to calm                         Francisco.              arrogant and brazen, but amusing
used for almost anything, and           or cause them a problem. But               common.         drinks, you can use a pachas to      also used in card games: to pass    them down and cheer them                                                       and polite. You will see chulapos
a simple mola is all you need to        the most common slang use of                               mean you’re splitting the price of   on the betting for the round if     up. But no te rayes if you take a                                              and chulapas at the celebrations for
express that something is cool.         mazo is to mean ‘much’ or ‘a lot’.                         the rounds among everyone.           your hand isn’t good.               while to get the hang of it!                                                   Madrid’s patron saint, San Isidro.

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