CULTURAL AND RICH DIVERSITY OF ODISHA WINDMILLS OF ZANSE SCHANS JUBILENCE OF JAISALMER - COVER STORY - TRAVEL LINKS

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CULTURAL AND RICH DIVERSITY OF ODISHA WINDMILLS OF ZANSE SCHANS JUBILENCE OF JAISALMER - COVER STORY - TRAVEL LINKS
VOLUME 02 | ISSUE 03                                                  JAN - FEB 2021

                                 cover story

              Cultural and rich
              diversity of OdishA
           Windmills of Zanse SchanS
            Jubilence of Jaisalmer
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CULTURAL AND RICH DIVERSITY OF ODISHA WINDMILLS OF ZANSE SCHANS JUBILENCE OF JAISALMER - COVER STORY - TRAVEL LINKS
VOLUME 01 | ISSUE 03                                        FEBRUARY - MARCH 2020 ` 100      VOLUME 01 | ISSUE 04                                                   MAY - JUNE 2020 ` 100

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     T
                                                                                                                                                                                                                              EDITOR AND PUBLISHER                                                          ravel Links New Year’s issue has given us a renewed perspective.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                              Payal Sahni                                                                   It is time to think, act, react and travel responsibly. We bring you
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            the arts, culture and rich diversity of Odisha. The state is unique
                                                                        COLOURS                                                                                                                                               ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER & DIRECTOR                                         to itself, influenced by its history of maritime ties.
                                                                        HOLI OF BARSANA
                                                                                                                                                                                                                              Pankaj Sahni
                                                                           Blue echos                                                                                                                                                                                                                    For a weekend gateways, the village-Martoli is covered. It is
                                                                                   of the Sea                                                                                                                                 MENTOR                                                                 known among trekking connoisseurs for pristine examples of Bhotia
                                                                          Morocco                                                                                                                                             D.P. Sharma                                                            community, with their signature wool apparels, and for tasty Indo-
                                                                                                         From Agra to Berlin                                                                                                                                                                         Tibetian, and grazing yaks that were once raised for trading alongside
                                                                                                                                                                                                                              ASSISTANT EDITORS
                                                                                                         FRANCE TODAY                                                                                                                                                                                salt in the 19th century.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                              Radhika Narang, Trivdesh Singh
                                                                                                         THE LOCKDOWN
                                                                                                         SPECIAL ISSUE
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                         Kumaon in Uttarakhand has prominent citation in some of the
                                                                                                                                                                                                                              EDIT DESK TEAM
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     earliest religious scriptures. The many pilgrimage sites in the region
             LENS VIGNETTE | LESSER KNOWN | THE WINE WORLD | ECO FRIENDLY HOLIDAY | LUXORY STAY          LENS VIGNETTE | LESSER KNOWN | THE WINE WORLD | ECO FRIENDLY HOLIDAY | LUXURY STAY
                                                                                                                                                                                                                              Radhika Narang
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     bear testimony to it. Kumaon may have gained its initial popularity in
                                                                                                                                                                                                                              COPY EDITOR                                                            the 20th century through Jim Corbett’s adventures, but the region has
                                                                                                                                                                                                                              Sameksha                                                               manifold layers of fascination to offer.

                                                                                                                                                                                                                              CONTRIBUTING WRITERS                                                       Jaisalmer in Rajasthan is a treasure that cannot be ignored; there
               VOLUME 01 | ISSUE 05                                             JULY AUGUST 2020 ` 100
                                                                                                           VOLUME 01 | ISSUE 06                                                            SEP - OCT 2020
                                                                                                                                                                                                                              Shreya Kulshretha                                                      are the stories of love, stories of the brave warriors, of the king’s
                                                                                                                                                                                                                              Matuli Madhusmita                                                      wisdom and the life stories of various families which have been carved
                                                                                                                                                                                                                              Gautam Kanwa                                                           in the walls of forts for ages. One feels the vibe of royalty.
                                                                                                                                      EASTERN

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                                                                                                                                                                             Magnum opus                                                                                                             regions, where time stands still to preserve an important memory.
                                                                                                                                                                                 of history                                   CIRCULATION
                                                                                                                                                                            Golden hand of                                    J P Nagar                                                                  The Ageless Impressions of Cartagena(Colombia) is a remarkably
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                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     history embedded deep in the 16th century.
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                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        It is our continuous endeavor to bring you an interesting content to
                                                                                                                                                                                                                              ACCOUNTS MANAGER                                                       read. Wishing you all a very happy and prosperous year ahead.
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CULTURAL AND RICH DIVERSITY OF ODISHA WINDMILLS OF ZANSE SCHANS JUBILENCE OF JAISALMER - COVER STORY - TRAVEL LINKS
Discovering lesser-known Dutch
                                                                                                                                                          The Ageless Impressions
                                                                                                               neighborhoods in Northern Holland
                                                                                                                                                         of Cartagena (Colombia)

                                         Revisiting the Unseen
                             Corners of Uttarakhand: Martoli
 CONTENT
CONTENT
                                                                    Sophisticated,
                                                                    subtle and serene!: oDISHA

                                                                                                                                             28                           34

                                                        06                                       18

                                                  10
                                                Getting Closer to
                                                                                                 24
                                                                                5 Rules to Cooking with Wine
                                          Nature in Rural Kumaon

                                                                                                                                 42
                                                                                                                       The Rustic charm of
                                                                                                                                                                          62
                                                                                                                                                                  The Jubilance of
                                                                                                                  Gulmohar Sariska Resorts
                                                                                                                                                                         Jaisalmer

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CULTURAL AND RICH DIVERSITY OF ODISHA WINDMILLS OF ZANSE SCHANS JUBILENCE OF JAISALMER - COVER STORY - TRAVEL LINKS
GATEWAY                                                                                                                                    that were once raised for trading alongside
                                                                                                                                           salt in the 19th century. Improbably, in
                                                                                                                                           recent decades, only a few suburban

Revisiting the
                                                                                                                                           colonies have found permanent roots, and
                                                                                                                                           they are often the only locals who operate
                                                                                                                                           businesses for incoming visitors.
                                                                                                                                                Quickly beguiled by its languid charm,

Unseen Corners of
                                                                                                                                           the compact village that has a dozen
                                                                                                                                           street-side eateries and traditional artifact
                                                                                                                                           shops, and plainspoken homestays that

Uttarakhand: Martoli
                                                                                                                                           let you feel like you are staying in your
                                                                                                                                           grandparent's house over the vacation.
                                                                                                                                                Of course, there’s ambivalence in
                                                                                                                                           exploring the inner regions of the village
                                                                                                                                           because what makes it exceptional is its
                                                                                                                                           aura of being undiscovered. Nevertheless,
Beyond Uttarakhand's most-visited destinations, there’s a wealth of wonders                                                                adventure travelers are increasingly

hidden in this Himalayan village, as long as you know where to look                                                                        finding their way there just as the village
                                                                                                                                           is increasingly finding ways to entice
                                                                                                                                           domestic and international travelers
                                                                                                                                           who can now visit the Johar Valley and
                                             maps and the touristic bustle is even          paths that lead to Martoli until they get to   make their way to Martoli without the
        Sneha Chakraborty
                                             scarce. Yet a 24-hour trek leads those who     Munsiari, the all well-known hill station      mandatory hike.
                                             dare to wander off to an oasis of sorts, one   frequented by off-season travelers to catch        Take a stroll on the colorful main road,

T
       he untouched trails between           of the most vibrant villages in the Indian     fleeting moments of summer. A quick            feel the ancient wood carvings on the
       Terai and the Kumaon division         Himalayas, perched on a surprisingly           weekend that translates to escapism. The       doors, and gaze at the backdrop of soaring                                   can be described as a stone-walled
                                                                                                                                                                                              Take a stroll on the
       of Uttarakhand take travelers         fertile patch watered by narrow streams        village, Martoli, sometimes has the look of    Nanda Devi in daylight and a transcending                                    residence. But when the tired bodies
through the Johar Valley, a vast region of   flowing down from the Pindar River.            a hollow cluster of abandoned homes, but       view of the starlit sky after sundown. The       colorful main road, feel    of those walking for miles lay down
virgin forests speckled with high-altitude                                                  it is known among trekking connoisseurs        time it takes driving over the dizzying                                      after a steaming meal made from local
vegetation and seemingly populated by        Discovering Johar Valley’s                     for pristine examples of Bhotia community,     switchbacks of a rocky gravel passes            the ancient wood carvings    grains, it is nothing less than a paradise.
a handful of native residents. There are     Cultural Capital                               with their signature wool apparels, and        straddled by pinnacles that don't budge is                                   The women who prepare the meal,
                                                                                                                                                                                           on the doors, and gaze at
a few attractions that pop-up on Google      Most people don't get to know of the           for tasty Indo-Tibetian, and grazing yaks      a reason some travelers will take the long                                   like every other elderly local in the
                                                                                                                                           way via Panchu Glacier toward the fabled,        the backdrop of soaring     town who understands the journey of
                                                                                                                                           Rargari towards Kathgodam. When you                                          outsiders often extend more than just
                                                                                                                                           keep going along the sheer-drop cliffs, the      Nanda Devi in daylight      hospitality, they take care of the visitors
                                                                                                                                           paved mountain pass becomes an easy hike                                     like a guardian, pouring words of
                                                                                                                                                                                            and a transcending view
                                                                                                                                           whose beauty is lodged inextricably in this                                  wisdom in their journey. A lot of people
                                                                                                                                           district.                                         of the starlit sky after   just pass these grounds and carry on to
                                                                                                                                               The spine of the Martoli community is                                    the trails they were mean to conquer,
                                                                                                                                           graced with more than a dozen Tibetian          sundown. The time it takes   reach the literal end. But for others, the
                                                                                                                                           buildings, some draped in prayer flags                                       conversations they have in Martoli are
                                                                                                                                                                                           driving over the dizzying
                                                                                                                                           and adorned with traditional relics. But                                     end game, it's all they needed to hear
                                                                                                                                           wherever you pause, look around, it is           switchbacks of a rocky      and consider their journey complete, a
                                                                                                                                           hard not to ponder what a curious and                                        successful one.
                                                                                                                                           unlikely spot Martoli is.                       gravel passes straddled by       Back outside, it is hard not to be
                                                                                                                                                                                                                        struck by the sharp contrast, even in the
                                                                                                                                                                                           pinnacles that don't budge
                                                                                                                                           Along the back roads of Martoli                                              slightly urban center, between the modern
                                                                                                                                           Go around town on an early morning walk         is a reason some travelers   routines and beeping gadgets of trekkers,
                                                                                                                                           and encounter an antique repetition of                                       and the more subtle and traditional roots
                                                                                                                                           two-storied buildings. The locals live on the   will take the long way via   of the original settlers who work in the
                                                                                                                                           upper floors and use the space below as a                                    hotels, shops, and farms that are owned
                                                                                                                                                                                           Panchu Glacier toward the
                                                                                                                                           front for their businesses. From homestays                                   and managed by city dwellers. On the
                                                                                                                                           to local tours that provide trekkers with a      fabled, Rargari towards     streets, barefoot children sometimes pose
                                                                                                                                           comfortable stay and traditional meals as                                    for photographs, curiously starring at all
                                                                                                                                           they pass through.                                     Kathgodam.            the funny equipment every outsider seems
                                                                                                                                               At Martoli Aunty, a homestay hosing                                      to carry.
                                                                                                                                           built among a raw of galleries, which                                            The only attraction that the locals

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CULTURAL AND RICH DIVERSITY OF ODISHA WINDMILLS OF ZANSE SCHANS JUBILENCE OF JAISALMER - COVER STORY - TRAVEL LINKS
would point towards before you set foot     savory offerings — pickle, rock salt,         themselves changing, finding what they
                                    out of this village is a historic temple    pepper, and an unknown mix of other           needed to when they started traveling,
                                    devoted to the peaks of Nanda Devi. It is   spices. The cuisines here are scared,         and sometimes, finding what they were
                                    frequented by the locals every morning      kept away from the world that upstages        looking for in their lives. The magic
                                    for performing daily prayers. You learn     the culinary world. Here, people gather       exists.
                                    from the temple that the nearby Tibet       around the table as a ritual, every bite is       Isolated in the Johar Valley, the
                                    border from Johar, the once-bustling        savored and thought of as a blessing the      vibrant village was unheard of until it
                                    trade route, a short-lived boom of          originated to nourish them. It may be a       wasn't. Once limited to original settlers,
                                    indigenous communities, and a touristic     recipe hundreds of years old that you get     newfound popularity on social media
                                    potential that fizzled all contributed      served, and it will be a flavor unlike any    boosted this destination to the top for
                                    to the present-day appreciation of          other that’s there in the outside world.      many explorers, which are still not
                                    the village, which today has 3,000                                                        enough in numbers to s. Today, this place
                                    inhabitants, roughly 86 percent of them     Foggy wonders off the beaten                  is appreciated mostly by trekkers for its
                                    are from the Pithoragarh                    trail                                         languid charm, derelict stone houses,
                                    District.                                                                                 and its ode to preserving the Himalayan
                                        Martoli is also known for its exotic    Martoli is virtually non-existent, a          charm.
                                    spices and on your strolls, strong          green blob on the map that captures a
                                    indulgence is recommended. Sitting in       small group of people who occupy the                          Sneha Chakraborty

                                    the woody shade of a quiet side garden      territory. Even the travelers that may            She is a multimedia journalist and writer of essays,
                                    of a small cafeteria, you will experience   have passed through this town might                   commentary and features, with a particular
                                                                                                                                     focus on travel. Based between London and
                                    the sound of crackling fire upon which      never have thought of it as a place to           Delhi, she has lived in two continents and traveled to
                                    rice bubbles, spiced dal sprinkled with     reside, even if it’s for a while. But no                 8 (and counting). Follow her travels on
                                                                                                                                               Instagram @fuzzygreysock.
                                    Pahadi jeera, stocked with a plate of       matter how few, visitors here have seen

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CULTURAL AND RICH DIVERSITY OF ODISHA WINDMILLS OF ZANSE SCHANS JUBILENCE OF JAISALMER - COVER STORY - TRAVEL LINKS
Getting Closer to
Nature in Rural Kumaon
Dev Bhoomi (Land of the Gods), as Kumaon and Uttarakhand in general have been
addressed on various tourism platforms, is a treasure trove for seekers of adventure,
favourable climate, tranquillity, fresh air and natural beauty.

       Gautam Singh Kanwal

T
        he name Kumaon is a derivative of
        the word Kumanchal which itself is
        an offshoot of the word Kurmavtar
(Lord Vishnu’s tortoise incarnation).
Uttarakhand has prominent citation in
some of the earliest religious scriptures
and texts where the present day Kumaon
region is referred to as Manaskhand (while
the present day Garhwal region is referred
to as Kedarkhand). The many pilgrimage
sites in the region bear testimony to
it. Kumaon may have gained its initial
popularity in the 20th century through Jim
Corbett’s adventures, but the region has
manifold layers of fascination to offer.
     Uttarakhand, in a broad-spectrum,
has seen a flourishing tourism industry
in recent times, although sadly in certain
locations it may have been at the cost
of sacrificing the forest cover of some
areas. Deforestation has been a major
concern in various parts of Kumaon (and
the administration has taken note of it).
Deforestation has proved itself as an ill
element of the modern-day era which can
only promise devastation. Keeping our
environment protected is the most crucial
need of the hour and the sooner we learn
that lesson, the better for all of us.

   Some of the rural villages of Kumaon
have done very well in keeping the
green cover intact to try and preserve

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CULTURAL AND RICH DIVERSITY OF ODISHA WINDMILLS OF ZANSE SCHANS JUBILENCE OF JAISALMER - COVER STORY - TRAVEL LINKS
all what Kumaon has been known for,              regular size crops.                             paint the surroundings in the most
and contributed towards ameliorating                 The revolutionary Kiwi produce at           vibrant colour shades. These flowers grow
the ecological health of the region. Koon,       Charkhet is interesting to note. An exotic      naturally on many hill slopes and valleys
Charkhet, Pangot, Baggad, etc. being some        fruit which has been in high demand             giving a cherubic look to the area.
of those villages in proximity of Nainital       in recent years, owing to its lifesaving            The fauna is as attractive as the
and Bhimtal.                                     properties in many ailments such as             environs which contain them. You are
    The fresh veggies and seasonal fruits in     dengue, has found fertile ground here.          likely to sight barking deer, mountain
the markets of nearby towns are procured         This expensive fruit can be transported         goats, yellow throated martens, hares,
from such rural villages. Coriander,             to bigger towns from here substantially         leopards (occasionally), variety of birds
potatoes, garlic, cucumber, pumpkin, peas,       lowering its hefty price in the markets and     such as wrynecks, red billed magpies,
radish, leafy beans, corn being some of the      making it more affordable.                      drongos, koels, owls, eagles, wood
principal crops apart from some native               A lot of other such exotic fruits and       peckers, green breasted pigeons, parrots,
fruits and vegetables. Various varieties         veggies are being tried out now in other        black headed jays, roufus sibia, Verditer
of local citrus fruits such as malta, keenu,     parts of Kumaon. In the opinion of some         Flycatcher, hoopoe, bulbuls, khalij
kaku, lemon (kaagzi as well as the big sized     locals, cultivation of medicinal plants can     pheasants among many others.
oval shaped ones) have grown with much           be another revolutionary idea in some               The general populace here is into the
ease in this climate. Kiwi in recent times       parts of these rural Kumaon villages and        occupation of farming and have to toil very
has seen a good produce too with Charkhet        should be given a serious thought.              hard for getting the crops to harvest. They
being among the first villages in the region         Colourful flowers such as                   start their day as early as 4am in order to
pioneering in kiwi farming. A fair share         rhododendron (which contour the                 organise their cattle, sort out their bucolic
of walnut trees has been giving a decent         picturesque road to Kilbury and Pangot),        routines, even before they perform their
yield. The land though fertile enough to         wild daisies, Bougainvillea, Mirabilis Jalapa   daily prayer rituals. Almost each farming
yield crops, is a bit rocky and bears a lot      (which bloom to life every day around 4pm       family has a cohort of cows / buffalos
of stones in the natural soil, which lead to     and just shut down in the morning around        for the milk and manure, bulls to till the
the size of the potatoes, radish, cauliflower,   10 am), Horn Lilies, Roses, Gladioli (these     land, pet dogs to guard the crops from the
etc. being smaller in size. Though smaller       make the perfect bouquet), hydrangea            monkeys and langoors.
in size, they taste much better than the         (in 3 different colours), and many others           Certain people have taken to rain water

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CULTURAL AND RICH DIVERSITY OF ODISHA WINDMILLS OF ZANSE SCHANS JUBILENCE OF JAISALMER - COVER STORY - TRAVEL LINKS
harvesting by collecting rain water drained
                                     off their roofs into man-made tanks / ponds
                                     and some have even kept fish in the tank as
                                     a part of efforts to initiate a permaculture
                                     drive. This water is then used for small
                                     scale irrigation purposes.
                                          The people here have to commute to
                                     Nainital or Bhimtal for their simple daily
                                     needs. For the replenishment of their seed
                                     banks, fertilizers, farming equipment
                                     and tools they have to travel downhill
                                     to Haldwani or Kaladhungi which is
                                     marginally over an hour’s journey by road.
                                          Leaving their homes for a long
                                     duration isn’t an option for most as the
                                     crops needs to be guarded from the birds,
                                     monkeys and goats that pillage the fields.
                                     Not all family members can be out together
                                     because of this predicament. Getting
                                     labour to help farm the land isn’t easy so
                                     they have to do all the work and most of it
                                     is manual labour as farming vehicles are
                                     not possible to maneuver in the sloping
                                     hilly area (though some farmers have kept
                                     a small hand driven tractor which can be
                                     maneuvered around with ease in certain
                                     fields). The hardships faced by the local
                                     farmers doesn’t end here, as the extreme
                                     weather too destroys crops or delays and
                                     diminishes the crop yields. Monsoons,
                                     when heavy, cause landslides at various
                                     scales. Winter, when severe, doesn’t permit
                                     the manual labour from venturing out in
                                     the fields.                                     in a sustainable framework altogether.
                                          But all of this hasn’t deterred the        Why eco-tourism should be the course of
                                     people here who have been farming for           action for these kind of places needs no
                                     survival generation after generation. To        crediting argument given the uncertainty
                                     fend for themselves, to lead a simple and       driven around in recent times due to the
                                     modest life, they labour through the day in     fast-paced way of life amidst mass scale
                                     their fields, fatiguing themselves for a good   industrialisation across the globe. There
                                     night’s rest.                                   are many such remote hamlets which
                                          Though today mobile networks are           could capitalise on this opportunity. The
                                     available with reasonable signal strength,      world is raring to go out on a vacationing
                                     living without telephones (land lines) is not   spree after the pandemic has shackled
                                     a distant memory for them as some villages      those dreams, and the best way to go ahead
                                     got their first land line connection as late    would be to consciously indulge in the
                                     as in the year 2001, when mobile phones         remote eco-tourism hubs such as these in
                                     were already a thing elsewhere.                 rural Kumaon. It would very well serve the
                                          In recent times, as a result of the        purpose of being vocal for local too, when    ubiquitous pine and deodar forests, to just
                                     boost in tourism sector in Uttarakhand,         you can only spend on the indigenous          sitting by the seasonal waterfalls one can
                                     an appreciable number of cottages,              goods of the land.                            rejuvenate the mind, body, and soul which
                                     home stays, lodges have spurred up in               Tourists here can binge on farm fresh     get worn down by the mundane city life.
                                     the region by these very own farming            food, enjoy the salutary influence of         I would call it an all year-round tourism
                                     families. Having something more to              pure air, watch the local fauna in close      friendly locale, barring the monsoon
                                     bank on is always a great option and            proximity and get besotted by the colourful   season in its peak. The snowfall in winter
                                     they have wisely cashed on it. The area is      flora all around. From hiking over and        too is a pacifying experience here when
                                     especially a perfect one for eco-tourism        across the nearby mountains through the       everything goes absolutely silent with the

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CULTURAL AND RICH DIVERSITY OF ODISHA WINDMILLS OF ZANSE SCHANS JUBILENCE OF JAISALMER - COVER STORY - TRAVEL LINKS
falling snow. Cooking your own meal over          I would not advocate (and I hope the       pickles, canned fruits and even chutneys.        spicy kumaoni raita are not to be missed
                                     a crackling bonfire while being nestled       locals too would strongly object) for big      They use the indigenous and organically          either. Gahat dal is also popular especially
                                     in the woods, falling asleep in the midst     luxury hotel structures and malls over here    grown fruits of the Kumaon region for            during the winters.
                                     of lush greenery with high mountains on       that could overshadow the pristine beauty      making their products. Their hampers are             In my own personal advice to those
                                     your horizon, waking up to the melodic        of the region, though some moderate scale      the ideal gifts to take back home for friends    who would want to try being environment
                                     chatter of the birds, and watching the        adventure / amusement parks for children       and relatives. The decorative and aromatic       conscious travellers, I would like to close
                                     oblique angled sun rays percolating           could help.                                    candles have always been the most                by saying - Make the journey up the
                                     through an otherwise impenetrable curtain         Mingling with the locals (their parlance   prominent local product of Nainital region       winding roads to these rural stretches of
                                     of pine and deodar forests are experiences    will please and even amuse you) and            and these candles have decked many living        Kumaon, but don’t look for luxury. Instead
                                     that one would carry in their minds           exchanging experiences with them is going      rooms. Some of the villages near Khurpatal       experience the hills and the countryside
                                                                                   to be a lasting and pleasant memory for        sell beautiful root wood carvings in various     way of life. Don’t look for malls, instead
                                         There is no dearth of                     the tourists. The Kumaoni people have          designs and these can be the perfect             give the local and ethnic goods a try (it
                                                                                   always shown warmth and hospitality for        memento. The hand-woven woollens are             will give you some joy). Don’t chase the
                                           spectacular beauty                      visitors, an innate trait they possess. They   indigenous products again and mostly             pub culture, instead immerse yourself in
                                                                                   are generally conservative people who          crafted by the local women from various          the exotic nature and provide your soul
                                           of myriad forms in                      follow their Kumaoni traditions unfailingly    Kumaon regions. Purchasing these local           with a deeply halcyon feel. Much like
                                          the expanse of these                     and have kept their culture alive with each    products would certainly augment the local       the maxim from Ralph Waldo Emerson
                                                                                   passing generation.                            economy and provide for the needy and            – Don’t go where the path may lead, go
                                       Himalayan regions and                           The local industries in and around         hard-working locals.                             instead where there is no path and leave
                                                                                   Nainital / Bhimtal are mainly the                   Some of the local food you will get to      a trail.
                                       anyone who has visited                      decorative and aromatic candles, local and     try are very delectable to say the least. It’s
                                           these places would                      organic fruit squashes and hand-woven          better to have it cooked by an experienced                      Gautam Singh Kanwal

                                                                                   woollens. A good amount of effort and          local and you would definitely want                      He works aboard merchant ships and hails
                                             definitely testify                    labour goes into producing these goods and     to make a note of the recipe. Bhatt dal              from Nainital, Uttarakhand. An avid for travelling,
                                                                                                                                                                                          reading, learning, music, art and adventure
                                                                                   visitors must try them, it does embolden       (in the form of chudkani or joula) with               sports, he is keen to indulge in new experiences
                                                    for that.                      the vocal for local agenda. ‘Fruitage’ is a    plain rice is something I would strongly                                  every time.

                                                                                   local manufacturer of fruit squashes, jams,    recommended. Mandue ki roti and the
                                     forever. In the words of Ruskin Bond (who
                                     is a resident of Uttarakhand) – It’s always
                                     the same with mountains. Once you have
                                     lived with them for any length of time, you
                                     belong to them. There is no escape.
                                          There is no dearth of spectacular
                                     beauty of myriad forms in the expanse of
                                     these Himalayan regions and anyone who
                                     has visited these places would definitely
                                     testify for that.

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CULTURAL AND RICH DIVERSITY OF ODISHA WINDMILLS OF ZANSE SCHANS JUBILENCE OF JAISALMER - COVER STORY - TRAVEL LINKS
COVER STORY

Sophisticated,
subtle and serene!
Decoding Odisha - India’s understated travel wonder and truly, its most
well-kept secret!

      Matuli Madhusmita Swain

T
         here are places people long to visit.
         There are places that travellers
         stumble upon. There are destinations
that are truly off the grid. Then, there are
cities and places which people come on a
second thought and wonder why they didn’t
visit earlier. Odisha clearly is best described                           fests all lined up.
that way. Blessed with a vast coastline                                        So, if you are a first time visitor to this
with the Bay of Bengal, the state which is                                gorgeous Eastern state of India, here are
enjoying its moment in the sun has more                                   few things to strike off your travel check-
to it than temples and tribal culture! The                                list! The easiest itinerary to draw up would
understated travel gem is truly a perfect                                 be Bhubaneswar, Puri and Cuttack on your
wonder for those who look for culture,                                    first visit with detours to visit Chilika Lake,
arts and spirituality topped with a dash of                               Konark Temple and some of the famed
adventure and wildlife.                                                   ecotourism and wildlife hotspots. With good
     Odisha has a culture that is unique to                               air connectivity, an international airport
itself, influenced by its history of maritime                             and plenty of cab and train services to
ties, architecture that are engineering and                               choose from, travelling within the state is a
artistic marvels paying homage to Hindu                                   breeze.
scriptures and Buddhist lineage. Much
like how the battle-thirsty conqueror                                     Beaches, Sand Art and Swoon-
King Ashoka laid down his weapons and                                     worthy Sunsets
converted to Buddhism; leading a life that                                Singularly oozing serenity and calmness,
was never thought possible of him – Odisha                                the 480 meter coastline of Odisha is home
has an undeniable softness to it that grows                               to pristine breaches, orange hued sunsets
of you. Rich in culture, art, and literature                              and nature kissed backdrops that truly don’t
and blessed with abundant geographical                                    need any filters! Start your travel by visiting
wealth for flourishing of wildlife and fauna;                             the serene majestic beaches of Puri and if
the best time to discover the state is between                            you are lucky, you can watch some fantastic
October and March.                                                        sand art being done. Go for an early
     The winters are pleasant with a nip in                               morning walk or see some gorgeous sunsets
the air and festive cheer all around and                                  and opening up of the bustling beach-side
numerous arts, dance, musical and cultural                                markets selling artefacts and knick-knacks.

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dumplings topped with tangy masalas and
                                                                                                                                             sev. A lip smacking on-the-go addictive
                                                                                                                                             snack. Seafood lovers, rejoice! Crabs,
                                                                                                                                             prawns and fresh fish is abundant, so are
                                                                                                                                             the various ways in which they are cooked
                                                                                                                                             and served. The favourite for Odias remains
                                                                                                                                             though seafood cooked in mustard sauce,
                                                                                                                                             best paired with hot rice and a simple salad.
                                                                                                                                             In case you happen to visit in summers, get
                                                                                                                                             yourself an invite to an Odia home to savour
                                                                                                                                             the rustic ‘Pawkhalaw’ – rice fermented
                                                                                                                                             overnight, spiced with green chillies, salt
                                                                                                                                             and lime and served with assorted platter
                                                                                                                                             of vegetables, seafood, condiments. The art
                                                                                                                                             of eating it is an acquired skill and a short
                                                                                                                                             nap is much advised, post a traditional Odia
                                                                                                                                             ‘Pakhalaw’ lunch. A satiated slumber.

                                                                                                                                             Crafts, Textiles and Tribal
                                                                                                                                             Artefacts
                                                                                                                                             Odisha is a shopper’s paradise. From
                                                                                                                                             budget to big spends, you will find it all.

                                                                                                                                               Odisha enjoys Nature’s
                                                                                                                                             bounty like no other state.
                                                                                                                                                Wildlife sanctuaries,
                                                                                                                                             National Parks and Tiger
                                                                                                                                             reserves – the state has it
                                                                                                                                             all. So for those who enjoy
                                                                                                                                              travel trails chasing the
                                                                                                                                             Big Cat or watching baby
                                                                                                                                             Olive Ridley turtles hatch,
                                                                                                                                             the state epitomizes what
                                                                                                                                              can only be described as
                                                                                                                                             absolute authentic luxury
                                                                                                                                                 in the lap of nature.

Chandrabhaga beach at Konark is majestic       along the coastline.                           The food is surely going to lull you into      Unusual, understated and oozing subtle
as such and offers a plethora of activities    Culinary Wonder                                a food coma. Savour a bowl of ‘Dalma’ –        glam, the arts, textiles and artefacts of the
from bonfires, to boating. Gopalpur beach      Odias love their food with a childlike         the quintessential Odia must have lentil       state are definitely a love at first sight.
was a famed maritime entry point to            simplicity that is endearing to watch, hard    dish – that is mildly spiced, nutrient dense   Odisha has textiles which are art pieces
the state, and has spectacular beaches.        to replicate and almost near impossible        and topped with toasted cumin and fresh        woven in thread. Splurge on stunning
Enjoy a stroll by the seaside and grab         to find the culinary gems of the state,        coconut. For those with a sweet tooth –        SambalpuriIkatsarees, which are often
yourself some snacks to munch. Lastly,         outside its borders. Not to be missed is the   there is a never ending spread of sweets.      adorned with patterns of flora, fauna,
not to miss is the Chandipur beach, home       ‘Mahaprasad’ at Lord Jagannath Temple          Especially popular are the ChennaPoda          conch-shells, depicting the state’s ancient
to amazing biodiversity and the famed          in Puri; a diverse vegetarian thali that is    – caramelized cottage cheese with sugar        maritime history. Bomkai silks are another
Panchalingeshwar temple. A must visit. If      ode to those chefs who helm the temple         syrup and the ubiquitous Rasagolla. Street     staple of the state, known for their intricate
you still have time on your itinerary, visit   kitchen to appease and tantalize the palate    food in Odisha is a treat. Fried savouries     designs and motifs. Be sure to buy yourself a
the Paradip Port, with due permits and         of Lord Jagannath. Different varieties of      are popular. The king of street food is the    double Ikat, Passapalisaree, the grandeur of
enjoy a quick visit to the Marine Aquarium     rice – Kaanika, ghee laced served with a       ‘DahibaraAloodum’ a combination of spicy       which is best known when worn. For those
rounded off with a soothing marine drive       thick dal, assorted vegetables and more.       potato curry and soft curd laced fried         culture enthusiasts, a trip to the famed art

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scientific and artistic mastery of ancient                   ART ARENA
                                                                                                Odisha.

                                                                                                Wildlife and Eco Tourism
                                                                                                Odisha enjoys Nature’s bounty like no other
                                                                                                state. Wildlife sanctuaries, National Parks
                                                                                                and Tiger reserves – the state has it all. So
                                                                                                for those who enjoy travel trails chasing
                                                                                                the Big Cat or watching baby Olive Ridley
                                                                                                turtles hatch, the state epitomizes what can
                                                                                                only be described as absolute authentic
                                                                                                luxury in the lap of nature. Adventurers
                                                                                                can choose from bird watching to trekking;
                                                                                                jungle safaris to glamping. Start your
                                                                                                adrenalin rush with a trip to Bhitarakanika
                                                                                                – a mangrove sanctuary and among the few

villages of Raghurajpur and Pipili is highly   and mysticism of the temple premises             marine sanctuaries in India. Have a closer
recommended. Raghupajpur is famous             cannot be summed up in words. Built in the       look at the majestic saltwater crocodiles
for the intricate art of ‘Pattachitra’ which   12th century, the temple is an architectural     who reside among the mangroves. Chilika
depicts mythology on palm leaves and cloth.    marvel. Fun fact:The main temple is              Lake, India’s largest brackish water lagoon
It is delicate art form, highly prized and     constructed in a way that no shadow of the       is famous for nesting of migratory birds
preserved with care. Pipili is home to the     temple falls on the ground at any time of        and a treat for bird watchers. Love the
famous ‘applique’ work that is characterized   the day. The famed RathYatra of Puri is an       Big Cat? A visit to the Tiger Reserves at
by the use of bright colourful motifs – the    annual festival, usually held in the months of   Satkosia and Similipal are a must. Majestic
Pipili applique work is used to adorn the      June – July. Make sure you tick off the grand    tigers, spotted deers, Bisons and Elephants
chariots of Lord Jagannath and his siblings    Konark Temple, dedicated to the Sun god.         lounging amidst the Sal forests – this is a
during the world famous RathYatra /Car/        An UNESCO World Heritage site, the temple        scene straight out of Jungle book! Explore
Chariot Festival of Puri. Be sure to grab      is famous for its symmetry and detaiedl          the listed eco-retreats for an enchanting,
yourself a souvenir in form of a lampshade,    stone sculptures. The Konark Dance Festival,     luxurious eco-vacation!
a wall décor or a vibrant bedspread.           held annually in November is a treat for              Odisha is truly an underrated travel
                                               dance lovers, having an impressive line-         gem, waiting to be explored.
Temple Architecture                            up of famed classical dancers performing
Art, history lovers can have their fill
marveling at the stunning temple
                                               amidst the stunning backdrop of Konark
                                               Temple. In Bhubaneswar, the imposing 180
                                                                                                              Matuli Madhusmita Swain
                                                                                                        She is an author, speaker, and marketing and                                           Badal Tyagi
architecture the state has to offer. A must    ftLingaraj Temple is a breathtaking piece
                                                                                                  communications expert with over 10 years of professional
                                                                                                   experience working with The Leela Palaces, Hotels and
                                                                                                                                                              He is a software engineer based in USA and painting is his passion since childhood.
visit is the majestic Lord Jagannath temple    of architecture, showcasing the finesse of          Resorts, Hyatt, Movenpick Hotels & Resorts, IHG, Grey
                                                                                                  Group and Dr. Reddy’s Foundation. She loves marketing,
                                                                                                                                                              description: This painting is created in the series to depict all classical dances of
at Puri. Famed to be the abode of Lord         the stone masters – the impressive carvings,         leadership, new age work place practices, economics,      India. The medium used is soft pastel pencils on sanded paper.
                                                                                                       entrepreneurship, sustainable travel and tourism.
Jagannath, the sheer splendor, grandeur        detailing, proportions is the epitome of

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let's swirlsome wine

     5 Rules to
     Cooking
                                with Wine

     AKSHAY PANDIT, EXECUTIVE CHEF             can use the flavour of the wine however         sauces, to add moisture while roasting and     remember good food comes from the best         flavoured ingredients like red meats and     hence they go well with lighter flavoured
         CROWNE PLAZA JAIPUR                   there are a few thumb rules to follow in        even in batters for frying and baking. Wine    ingredients! That does not mean you use        whites are paired with lighter meats like    meats and veggies.
                                               order to cook with wine like a pro!             is great in desserts too.                      the most expensive wine for cooking but        poultry, fish, seafood and veggies.              However, once you have mastered

T
       he wine scenario in India has               A wine could be used in many different                                                     the ones that are good enough to drink.             This usually occurs as the red wines    the art of pairing food and wine you can
       come a long way and thanks to the       ways like a cooking broth for soups and         Rule 1 - Quality                                                                              have a higher tannin content which has       always get a lot more experimental by
       connoisseurs of good food and high      poultry, in poaching of vegetables or fruits    The most important is rule is to use a         Rule 2 – Classic Combination                   a slight bitter after-taste (somewhat like   using wine in cooking Indian delicacies,
spirited dining we have all understood         or fish, in marinades for roasts (as the wine   good wine. By that I mean a wine that is       As many of you would probably be aware         in a coffee) and hence these go well with    gravies and biryanis.
the ways of celebrating a wine not just for    contains acidic properties and helps keep       drinkable and not the one which has gone       of the fact that both red and whites have      strong flavoured meats or heavier gravies.       The idea is to keep it subtle in order to
drinking but for its use in cookery as well.   the meat moist and tender), as dressings        bad due to oxidation, too acidic or the        traditional/classical rules of pairing where   The whites are more acidic (somewhat like    compliment the dish and not over-power
    There are lot many ways in which you       for salads, as a finishing ingredient to        one that has lost all of its flavour. Always   reds are paired with heavier and stronger      a sharp taste that you get in a lemon) and   the other ingredients.

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Rule 3 – Dry vs Sweet                          Rule 4 - Full bodied vs Light                   surely mask the taste of your original dish.
                                     Differentiate between dry and sweet wines.     A full bodied wine can match bolder                 Allow the wine to simmer in the food
                                          Dry wines are usually the ones where      tastes in stews, gravies and sauces with        to impart all its flavours. Too little time
                                     all of the natural sugars have been lost and   higher spice content while a light wine         or adding the wine right towards the
                                     hence are more acidic or ‘crisp’; while the    does wonders in creamy, cheesy and mild         end will make the food taste both acidic
                                     sweet wines are naturally sweeter. Ensure      flavoured gravies and sauces.                   and bitter. Keeping these simple rules in
                                     you know which wine you are using while                                                        mind am sure you will barely go wrong
                                     cooking in order to get the expected           Rule 5 – Respect the wine                       in cooking with wine. However always
                                     results.                                       Wine like any other ingredient needs to         remember to cook with a good mood (may
                                          Dry wines for savoury while sweet         be used in diligence. Too little and it won’t   be some wine can work here too!) as it
                                     wines for desserts.                            impart any flavour and too much will            always shows in the food you cook.

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lesser-known

     Discovering lesser-known
     Dutch neighborhoods in
     Northern Holland
     The windmills in Zanse Schans are the least explored of Netherland’s countryside
     regions, where time stands still to preserve an important memory.

                                                                                                Sneha Chakraborty                     artisans such as cheesemakers who would       the Zaandam Time Museum on the main
                                                                                                                                      travel from afar and settle in the Dutch      street, where a collection of animated

                                                                                        T
                                                                                              ake a huddle of six rustic-green        continent for a living. Before the glory of   clocks – from the Dutch golden age –
                                                                                              windmills exuding a whiff of oil        internet fame, the town would become a        stands proudly as the only establishment
                                                                                              paint and cocoa with gigantic,          secret discovery for travelers who would      in the country that pays homage to the
                                                                                        blades moving-slowly in the background,       dare to stray further from the city. But      intricate craft of timekeeping.
                                                                                        a pace that makes you stare at it longer      nowadays, it is found scribbled in almost          During the afternoon, in a
                                                                                        than intended. Located 11 miles north of      every European itinerary as a must-visit      brewpub somewhere nearby, a fillet
                                                                                        Amsterdam, these windmills are observed       for its scenic allure.                        of cod drowning in a batter of flour
                                                                                        throughout the Netherlands as historic             In a sparsely populated region,          and breadcrumbs sizzle in hot oil, as
                                                                                        and significant – but a place that has also   I sit in the village of Zaanse Schans         Kibbeling, a Dutch favorite is prepared
                                                                                        remained mysteriously untouched for           surrounded by an orchestra of crashing        for a large group of tourists. I sit with
                                                                                        decades. Back in the 17th-century, the        waves, waiting for the wind to slow           a couple of fishermen in their late 40s
                                                                                        modern-day riverside town was home to         down. The old wooden rooftops of              on barstools facing the sea, oozing
                                                                                        more than 600 working windmills. The          nearby houses vibrate and squeak. It’s        athleticism. Last night, they say, a jeep
                                                                                        industrial trade would support countless      quiet – just a handful of people in a cafe    full of tourists wearing masks and hazmat
                                                                                        communities of factory workers and            drinking Chocomel. And quieter inside         suits were begging to reopen De Kat,

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woman, olive-skinned, sits on the edge                                               stay into the night, roaming in circles
                                                                                                                                            facing the town-wide reading Gerard                                                  around town. The vintage local bar De
                                                                                                                                            Reve’s De Avonden.                                 During a year with limited        Hoop op d'Swarte Walvis offers a limited
                                                                                                                                                A wooden pathway shaped like a
                                                                                                                                                                                                   travel possibilities, a       dinner menu, where the barkeep whispers
                                                                                                                                            mini-bridge, De Kat’s one walkway is                                                 praises of the Veal Loin with a side of
                                                                                                                                            crowded with squashed blueberry crops           backpacker from London finds         asparagus and some potato pancakes.
                                                                                                                                            that infuses the air around with a tart
                                                                                                                                                                                               a home in Dutch farmland          A humble meal with a touch of Zaanse,
                                                                                                                                            aroma. There is no public transport for                                              warm, comfortable, and just the right
                                                                                                                                            miles, just a small community of farmland         where she stuambled upon           amount of fancy.
                                                                                                                                            Dutch settlers of less than 8,000 living
                                                                                                                                                                                             one of the Netherland’s best-           The next day, I walk for hours with
                                                                                                                                            on a peat soil landmass in houses made                                               Abbe, the son of my host, and a history
                                                                                                                                            from upcycled 19th-century wood with            kept secrets. After discovering      buff. Abbe has a long-lost connection with
                                                                                                                                            slivers of the industrial revolution in their
                                                                                                                                                                                             a landscape as peaceful as it is    this place and now lives with his mother,
                                                                                                                                            design. A significant reminder of the 17th-                                          finishing the renovation of his home in a
                                                                                                                                            century industrialization: Shipyards, spice     pristine, this essay retracing her   hamlet called Zuideinde on the suburban
                                                                                                                                            factories, paper industry. Museums dot the
                                                                                                                                                                                                 steps in Zanse Schans.          landscape away from the city. I walk
                                                                                                                                            bay.                                                                                 behind her, cautiously navigating puddles
                                                                                                                                                Now and, then a dinghy                                                           of mud as she swiftly walks on almost
                                                                                                                                            comes along carrying                                                                 invisible trails, leading the way. The scene
                                                                                                                                            passengers tinkering with                                                            suddenly changes as we emerge from
                                                                                                                                            their face masks, trying                                                             the tall shrubs and stand in a colony of
                                                                                                                                            to forget the reality of                                                             miniature houses: a tribute to the original
                                                                                                                                            the pandemic. During the                                                             settlers of Zaanse. The image in front of
                                                                                                                                            evening, a much larger crowd                                                         me is of a random cluster of 18th-century
                                                                                                                                            of teenagers and young                                                               Dutch homes, painted dark green on the
                                                                                        immense historic significance. “When                adults stinking of Heineken                                                          outside – almost like they were trying to
                                                                                        the pandemic started, we were sure that             drive in from Amsterdam for                                                          camouflage, hide in plain sight. At that
                                                                                        it was going to be quiet autumn. Many               enormous mounds of Patatje                                                           exact moment, the significance of the
                                                                                        weeks passed by and nobody showed                   Oorlog (War Fries) and then                                                          original settlers who built the town was
                                                                                        up anywhere near the village and the
                                                                                        virus was already in Amsterdam. But we
                                                                                        were wrong. When the city went under
                                                                                        lockdown, travelers flocked here, to the
                                                                                        Zaandam neighborhood. One particularly
                                                                                        quirky backpacker claimed that Zaanse
                                                                                        holds the power to protect him from the
                                                                                        virus.” A trout with a canary-gold stripe
                                                                                        flings itself in the air as we sail closer to the
                                                                                        De Kat windmill.
                                                                                            De Kat was originally built as an oil mill
                                                                                        in 1646. It was an industrial structure and
                                                                                        was considered an important landmark.
                                                                                        When the mill caught a devastating fire
                                                                                        in 1782, the town immediately engaged
                                                                                        in rebuilding it. Owned by Vereniging
                                                                                        De Zaansche MolenI, the mill today is
                                                                                        the last standing operational station for
                                                                                        printmaking.
                                                                                            After eavesdropping on a guided tour
                                                                                        and fascinating myself with an ancient
                                                                                        process that traditionally yields pigments
which I later understood was a reference    afar from civilization.                     of color, I wander around. A photographer
to the oldest printmaking windmill. We          Captain and retired mill-engineer       politely whisks some workers for a
strained our eyes for what feels like the   Fabian Leery gave me a ride the next day;   snapshot. There is the other cluster of
hundredth time at the shore, 11 miles       four hours sailing on his dinghy boat,      windmills–and the Zaan river–a serene
away. The windmill was barely visible on    which he lovingly named Martha after        landscape that can make you gasp. Wooden
the horizon, a smudge of wood standing      her wife, describing Zaanse as a place of   benches and big fans and silence. A young

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too empowering – all their traditions and
                                     sacrifice over the years coming into light.
                                          Midday at Zuideinde’s port a few days
                                     later. An hour away by boat, some 63 miles
                                     away from Amsterdam, the Zaanse village
                                     rises, aesthetic, quieter. A population
                                     of less than 5,000 in winter. Tourists on
                                     bicycles stop for mere moments to gaze
                                     at the windmills that line the horizon.
                                     No cars, no wheels. In the 17th century,
                                     paintings of windmills weren’t just art,
                                     they would exude strength. In recent years,
                                     many locals still come to the shore to stare
                                     at the windmills and gather whatever vigor
                                     they can. Some say that it is greater than
                                     praying in the church.
                                          This afternoon, a group of elderly
                                     women is talking about the many ways
                                     to make carbonara, and a mill worker
                                     explains to a group of millennial travelers
                                     the importance of manual labor in the
                                     olden days. I spoon Boterkoek, an exotic
                                     form of butter cake in the Café "Van
                                     Ouds" Oost-Indië near the central square,
                                     where the cafe owner peeks from over the
                                     counter, as though he doesn’t want to get
                                     away from the radiator, and passes a shy
                                     smile, 45-year-old Gilonio.
                                          That night the water in the Zaan
                                     river was still. A few tourists chat with
                                     Captain Leery, preparing to take me back
                                     to Amsterdam on an early sail toward the
                                     city. He passionately recalls his past and
                                     tells stories about his days as a mill-worker
                                     back in the days, never for a moment
                                     caring about the tidal waves that kept
                                     coming his way, as if he knows them too
                                     well. The adventure was his fate, not a
                                     stagnant life. Hours later, through my
                                     rental-room windows, I gave the town one
                                     last look. In those somewhat emotional and
                                     semi-conscious moments before dawn, in
                                     all parts of the world, there was silence;
                                     but in this place, the profound steering
                                     of the windmills made me smile. In such
                                     moments, Zaanse can define serenity better
                                     than any other place in the world, and in
                                     others, it is just another suburban village in
                                     Holland that couldn’t care less.

                                                     Sneha Chakraborty

                                         She is a multimedia journalist and writer of essays,
                                             commentary and features, with a particular
                                            focus on travel. Based between London and
                                        Delhi, she has lived in two continents and traveled to
                                                8 (and counting). Follow her travels on
                                                      Instagram @fuzzygreysock.

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The Ageless Impressions of
Cartagena (Colombia)
A remarkably beautiful city, with the roots of its opulent and sporadically vehement history
embedded deep in the 16th century. A colonial city which has evolved into the biggest tourist
destination in Colombia, apart from being an important economic hub. A city which showcases
diversity in attractions for the modern-day traveler who seeks more than an all-round feel of any
place – Cartagena.

       Gautam Singh Kanwal                       perfect proof of the military engineering      Some of the houses are around 250 years
                                                 might of the Spanish colonial masters.         old with beautiful protruding wooden

A
         short drive from the Manga Bay               As you step into the premises of the      balconies, huge doors at the entrance
         Harbor led me to the entrance of        city, you will be smitten and spellbound       and sloping corrugated roofs. Tastefully
         this comely city. The freshness in      in no time by the old-world ambience that      painted walls with creepers and shrubs
the mornings land breeze along the coastal       exudes from every corner of the area.          grown against them will mesmerize any
drive did well in priming me up for the               The retro Spanish colonial architecture   onlooker. Occasionally you will spot cute
treat of a trip that lay ahead in Cartagena.     in the entire area is just awe inspiring       vintage American cars parked around
Had always been excited in making this           where the alternately bright colored           some of the houses and even being driven
trip for a long time and it finally happened.    houses, cobbled stone pathways (well           by. A majestic statue of Don Pedro de
Without any sort of planning on how to go        maintained), spacious plazas and various       Heredia, the founder of the city (founded
about exploring I just drove off from the        sculpture give you a certain charming          way back in the year 1533), is well placed
port limits.                                     feel and even leave you feeling possessed.     in one of the plazas. You would really
     Situated on the Caribbean Sea
shoreline of Colombia, this port city acted
as a convenient passage to Latin America
for centuries. Owing to its strategic location
on the Northern coast of the country, it
used to be a dynamic port for the slave
trade during the colonial times. Cartagena
is also the place where Colombia’s
independence journey started off. It was
the first city to rid itself of the Spanish
crown in Colombia and that’s what gives
great historic importance to Cartagena.
The city of Cartagena (Cartagena de
Indias) was considered to be militarily the
most secure and safe city in all of South
America back in the colonial times. The
fortifications built around the walled city
were constructed to defend Cartagena from
the repeated attacks it had been subject
to by foreign aggressors (mainly the rival
European Colonies of Spain) and ruthless
pirates (including Sir Francis Drake) trying
to capture it. The robust and tall standing
walls of the city’s defence systems which
have weathered those repeated attacks are

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Walking around the city is the best way
                                                                                                                                                to explore it so you can explore every nook
                                                                                                                                                and canny of the mysterious streets and
                                                                                                                                                alleyways. However, many horse-drawn
                                                                                                                                                carriages ply around the city which is a
                                                                                                                                                great way to explore as well if you want
                                                                                                                                                to cover more in lesser time. Almost every
                                                                                                                                                photo you click in these streets can be a
                                                                                                                                                postcard or a calendar shot.
                                                                                                                                                    Many of the locals manage to speak
                                                                                                                                                decipherable English, but it’s fun to try and
                                                                                                                                                converse in the local language. They are
                                                                                                                                                very jovial people in general. I’ve always
                                                                                                                                                been a fan of the Spanish language.
                                                                                                                                                    The street side stalls sell pretty
                                                                                                                                                souvenirs including sporty t shirts, bags,
                                                                                                                                                shoes, crockery, etc.
                                                                                                                                                    The heat and the humid stickiness in
                                                                                                                                                the air can drain you a bit while walking
                                                                                                                                                around, so one must keep hydrated. But
                                                                                                                                                that problem is easily solved as there are
                                                                                                                                                quite a few hawkers selling fresh fruits on
                                                                                                                                                the streets. Some of them are local women
                                                                                                                                                dressed in bright yellow traditional attire
                                                                                                                                                of Palenque (a nearby town settlement
                                                                                                                                                founded by the first free slaves of the
                                                                                                                                                region). These local women stall keepers
                                                                                                                                                are fun to pose with for a photograph.
                                                                                                                                                    A plethora of lovely cafes, bars,
                                                                                                                                                restaurants and pubs with live music and
                                                                                                                                                unparalleled variety of food and drinks,
                                                                                                                                                are scattered all over town. You could
                                                                                                                                                spend more than a week in trying out all
                                                                                                                                                the cafes and restaurants alone if it was to
                                                                                                                                                be a gastronomic expedition. Cazuela soup
                                                                                                                                                with sea food is a thing not to miss. Coffee

want the moments to pause, the time to           protruding edges on the roofs which            Trinitarians, Surfinias among others adorn
stand still and will be compelled to have        people believed was to catch a flying witch,   the walls decorating them with manifold
your camera out and on all the time. The         hurt and disable her powers.                   tones.
centuries old colonial infrastructure is one         There is a Palace of inquisition where         Some of the houses have a metal
of the many reasons that make you fall in        one can visit and learn more about the         iguana embossed on the doors which
love with the city. One will easily notice       history of the subject. People guilty of       meant that the person living in it was
that the architecture of the city gives it its   practicing witchcraft and black magic were     an important personality working in the
main character.                                  tried in the Palace of Inquisition and were    Spanish government during the colonial
    There are a lot of these authorized          subject to torture.                            rule. The largest plaza in the colonial Latin
tour guides available in the city who make           There is a church dedicated to St Pedro    America and the tallest building in colonial
your trip easy and more extensive. You           Claver which also has is mortal remains.       Latin America are in Cartagena and have
learn a lot about the Colombian history          The infrastructure of the church and the       been very well preserved.
and culture from these guides. I noticed         palace are equally impressive like the rest        My guide pointed out some of the
in general that the locals over there enjoy      of the colorful city.                          houses saying they are owned by some
talking about their history.                         Beautiful flowers embellish the            celebrities.
    Witchcraft, black magic and related          colorful walls against which they’ve               Colombian singing and dancing
superstitious practices were widely              grown. The vivacity of the exotic flora is     sensation Shakira, has invested in many
prevalent in the olden days of Colombia.         like a signature on these radiant walls.       development projects in and around the
Many of the houses are built with sharp          Geraniums, Jasmine, Bougainville,              city mainly related to education.

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is a specialty of Colombia and the various      rich past. The Spanish rulers exported the       being its chief exports. Colombia was
styles of coffee are something to indulge in.   gold stocks (hoarded in the port city from all   originally a much larger country when
     I remember brunching in Hard Rock          over Latin America as well) from Cartagena       Panama, Venezuela and Ecuador were
Café, where the first round of beers was        to Spain. Colombians are passionate about        a part of Colombian territory. Panama,
free for all. Café del Mar is one popular bar   music, soccer and they love celebrations. In     Venezuela and Ecuador subsequently
in Cartagena which is constructed into the      fact, the Christmas celebrations in Colombia     became independent countries as they
fortifying walls of the city and is fun place   last the entire month of December. Visiting      gradually withdrew between early 19th to
to enjoy a beverage, though a bit expensive.    the city of Cartagena does prove to be a         early 20th century. Thus, I would reinstate
The guide pointed out to one restaurant (La     unique and once in a lifetime experience.        that Cartagena is overall very tourist safe.
Vitrola) and said that its Shakira’s favorite        Now Colombia may have had a greatly         In fact, it was Columbia’s safest place even
restaurant in Cartagena, though I didn’t try    scandalous repute in the drug world, but         when the drug-days were at their zenith. It
it out as I was already stuffed. Museo del      this is not necessarily the case in present      would just share the same crime problems
Oro Zenu (a Gold art and artefacts museum)      day Colombia. Just as we can’t use old           that plague other cities in general. The
in Cartagena proves to be an educative visit.   measurement techniques as a yardstick            currency is quite lopsided, 1 INR is about
Some of the gold relics belong to the Zenu      for modern day estimations, we shouldn’t         50 Colombian Peso, so you would be
tribe, one of the earliest inhabitants of the   rely on the country’s notoriously drug           proudly carrying a wad of cash when you
region. Gold and Colombia were almost           immersed past as a sign of danger to             change USD to Colombian Peso.
synonymous at one time. The yellow color        present day tourists. Colombia is among              The overall experience you get when
on the Colombian flag is symbolic their gold    the emerging economies of South America          walking the castle walls (which has well
                                                with petroleum, minerals, coal and coffee        preserved the city’s military heritage)

38   TRAVEL LINKS | JAN - FEB 2021                                                                   JAN - FEB 2021 | TRAVEL LINKS         39
during sunset, drinking beverages on the       the volcano and bathed in it say they feel     to visit the beautiful city of Cartagena
exquisite balconies and rooftops of cafes      effortlessly buoyant and weightless when       in Colombia, some 500 years after
and restaurants, shopping goods souvenirs      submerged in the craters moderately            Christopher Columbus set foot over there.
from the stalls in the narrow streets, being   viscous mud, and that it has a cleansing       A very memorable trip, one that I hold
entertained by live music and salsa dance      effect on the skin too. If I ever visit        very close to my heart and will surely
performers, riding a catamaran to Rosario      Cartagena again, I’m surely climbing the       cherish lifelong.
islands (a good one for the beach bums),       volcano for the mud bath.
absorbing the historic fables of the land          All in all, I would strongly recommend
and just watching the colorful architecture,   Cartagena as a must visit destination for                     Gautam Singh Kanwal

                                                                                                                                                        CONSCIOUS AND
is unmatched and unforgettable to say the      people who feel the urge to travel, discover           He works aboard merchant ships and hails
                                                                                                  from Nainital, Uttarakhand. An avid for travelling,
least. One major attraction which I regret     and learn the valuable lessons only
                                                                                                     reading, learning, music, art and adventure
not having experienced is bathing in the       travelling can teach.                               sports, he is keen to indulge in new experiences
                                                                                                                       every time.
warm volcanic mud at the crater of El              I have always considered myself

                                                                                                                                                        SAFE TRAVEL
Totumo (a volcano). People who’ve visited      extremely fortunate to have been able

                                                                                                                                                                        www.travellinkslive.com
40   TRAVEL LINKS | JAN - FEB 2021                                                                                                                                        JAN - FEB 2021 | TRAVEL LINKS   41
promotion
stay

The Rustic charm of
Gulmohar Sariska Resorts
             Payal Sahni                       life. It is a place where you can experience
                                               simple pleasures like hear the birds

S
      et in 10 acres of lush green             chirping, star gazing, enjoy a traditional
      landscaping, Gulmohar Sariska            Indian cuisine with its major ingredients
      Resort is located in the beautiful       organically cultivated in-house, bonfire
valley of Viratnagar and surrounded            to beat winter chills and the list goes on.
by Aravalli Hills. It is an ideal holiday      Gulmohar, as a property, weaves all these
destination, tastefully designed in            experiences together with the modern
harmony with the peaceful surrounding          comfort and best-in-class hospitality that
and a perfect setting to commune with          travelers seek from a resort.
nature.

                                               Q
    Suitably located facing a picturesque              Would you like to stress 'upon'

                                                                                              Q
valley, it is an ideal place, economical,              the importance of the strategic
affordable, and yet with uncompromising                location of the place?
comfort for the persons seeking rest away      As a property located in Viratnagar (near
from hectic city life.                         Sariska National Park), Gulmohar has a
    Designed with all the constituents         lot to offer. Situated in the lap of Aravali
of modern-day architecture, Gulmohar           Hills, it not only brings one closer to
Sariska still stays very much in touch         nature and wildlife, but also gives a rural
with the beauty of nature. It provides         retreat to its visitors. There are local
you a chance to experience the blend of        sightseeing spots within a radius of 6 km
luxury and comfort along with the sense        from the resort that are from the times of     Shubham Sardana - Business Owner
of being in the middle of the jungle. One
of the most important elements of the stay
here is, it is also pet friendly and one can
happily enjoy the staycations
here.
    During my course of stay here and
conversations with Mr. Shubham Sardana,
many insights about the property and
strategic locations are discussed which I
present in the form of Q and A.

Q
      Can you please let us know the
      thought behind the inception of

                                                                                                                                                                                Q
      Gulmohar Sariska resorts?                                                                                                  Mahabharata and Mughal Era. Remains                   What are the current challenges        temperature checks, kitchen hygiene etc.
The main idea behind inception of                                                                                                from the times of Buddha were found here              you are facing and how would you       Ensuring a safe and enjoyable experience
Gulmohar Sariska Resort was to create                                                                                            in Viratnagar at Bijak Pahadi, which also             like to overcome them?                 for our guests is of utmost priority to us.
a peaceful getaway for ‘people’ which                                                                                            has an inscription by Ashoka. A lot of books   I would say Covid-19 is a challenge that      Infact, it has always been that way, which
provides them a much needed break from                                                                                           have been written about this place. It is a    not only us, but the entire travel and        is why the impact of tourist influx at our
the hassles of city life. Just about 4 hours                                                                                     holiday destination that gives a wholesome     tourism industry is currently facing. As      property has not been hit that hard. Being
away from Delhi/NCR, Gulmohar is a                                                                                               experience filled with the adventures          a responsible entity of the hospitality       a property that has been around for over
place where people can visit frequently to                                                                                       of spotting wild cats, relaxation amidst       sector, we are following all the prescribed   a decade, there is a trust we have gained
unwind, relax and press the much needed                                                                                          nature and exploring the places with huge      guidelines such as regular sanitization       among our regular visitors. Our dedicated
pause button in their fast paced urban                                                                                           historical and mythological significance.      of rooms and common areas, daily staff        compliance is certainly going to help us

42   TRAVEL LINKS | JAN - FEB 2021                                                                                                                                                                                                JAN - FEB 2021 | TRAVEL LINKS         43
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