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AJET News & Events, Arts & Culture, Lifestyle, Community FEBRUARY 2016 score! sports for charity what’s coming to japan in 2016? the ultimate bento guide Why japan makes hollywood wait celebrate shinichi hoshi’s 90th birthday The Japanese Lifestyle & Culture Magazine Written by the International Community in Japan
C is a special art issue of Connect that will act as a public portfolio for the expat community in Japan. Go to this site for more information the art issue and to send us your work! Submissions are open until March 2016. 2 FEBRUARY 2016 3
CREDITS & C - The Art Issue 2 Letter from the Editor 6 News & Events Event Calendar 10 CONTENTS In the News 15 Coming to Japan in 2016 16 Arts & Culture Faces in Fashion 22 When Sexy Isn’t Pretty 24 Head Editor Graphic Design & Layout Corporate Advertising Staff Book Picks 27 Rajeev Rahela Patrick Finn Jared Oliva Japan’s Short Sci-Fi Master 28 ASSISTANT Editor Assistant Designers Public Relations Where the Dead Pause 30 Timothy Saar Mathew Cartwright Jasmin Lau Better Late Than Never 32 Hannah Killoh Mastering Kyuushoku Conversations 34 Section Editors SOCIAL MEDIA Amy Koller Alexandra Brueckner Keith Lawton Lifestyle Hiroshi Fukushima Cover Photo Niseko Restaurant Spotlight 38 Copyediting Elena Galindo Illaura Rossiter Thea Felmore Vietnam in Tiny Boxes 44 Erica Grainger TABLE OF CONTENTS Photo Liam Nolan White Water Rafting in Shikoku 48 Leah Gray Illaura Rossiter Japanese Bento Guide 51 Rayna Healy Contributors Cameron Joe Additional Photos Misha Janette Community Pia Peterson Alexandra Brueckner Daniel Kenney The Spirit of Ishizuchi-san 58 Margaret Pickard Sterling Diesel Ryan Monahan One World. One Team. 61 Mira Richard-Fioramore Ashley Dorrell Rachel Paterson Timothy Saar Freerange Stock Jack Powers Contributing to Connect 62 Jennifer Sanchez Elena Galindo Emma Ruiters Becca Simas Happy Raft Jennifer Stout Joyce Wan Hiroshima AJET Sabrina Zirakzadeh iTunes Misha Janette Ryan Monathan Pia Peterson Margaret Pickard Rajeev Rahela Mira Richard-Fioramore Illaura Rossiter Texture.com Joyce Wan Wikicommons 新潮社 This magazine contains original photos used with permission, as well as free-use images. All included photos are property of the author unless otherwise specified. If you are the owner of an image featured in this publication believed to be used without permission, please contact the Head of Graphic Design and Layout, Patrick Finn, at patrick.finn@ajet.net. This edition, and all past editions of AJET Connect, can be found online at AJET.net here. Read Connect online and follow us on ISSUU. 4 FEBRUARY 2016 5
LETTER FROM THE EDITOR Hello! Welcome to the January 2016 edition of Connect magazine. I hope that the Holiday season has treated you well, and you’ve a spring in your step to greet the new year with. The Connect team sure has! We’ve always got treats for you, but these are 2016 treats, so they’re extra special! This year is all about “New Year, New Me-als.” I want to try cooking something new as often as I can; what are your goals? The weather has become rather cold of late—not just in Japan, but in various parts of the world. Appreciate the beauty of it all… make the most of it for 5 minutes before running indoors and hiding under blankets and a kotatsu. That’s where you’ll find me! But if not, the slopes are alive! Here in Gifu, there are a plethora of ski sports, and locations, to take part in some powdery fun. This month we have: a sporting charity helping those after the 2011 earthquake; a guide to the ultimate bento; a heartfelt book review giving an insight into grievances; the wonderful block events calendar, and many more. Once again I’d like to thank all those who contributed to this month’s issue. I hope you will all enjoy reading it as much as I did. And if you haven’t already, please take a look at our special January edition of Connect! Have a great February! Rajeev Rahela Head Editor 2nd-year Gifu ALT PHOTO SUBMISSIONS interested in submitting a cover photo for the next issue? CLICK here for more information and to submit your photos! 6 FEBRUARY 2016 7
NEWS News & Events Event Calendar 10 In the News 15 Coming to Japan in 2016 16 & EVENTS NEWS EDITOR connect.news@ajet.net Margaret Pickard So begins the daily delicate shuffle across icy parking lot to avoid eating it in front of students. EVENTS EDITOR connect.events@ajet.net Jennifer Sanchez What do you mean hibernating season is over? Illaura Rossiter 8 FEBRUARY 2016 9
EVENTS CALENDAR FEBRUARY 1 2 3 Hokkaido Yuki Matsuri Matsushima Kaki Matsuri Mito Plum Festival 2016 (Snow Festival) 6-7 February 2016 20 February 2016 - 31 March 5-11 February 2016 Matsushima Bay, Miyagi 2016 Odori Park Site & Susukino’s Website Karaku-en and Kodokan Ekimae-dori Site, Sapporo Park in Mito City, Ibaraki 5-18 February 2016 Riyu Sawa God Winter Website Block 1 Tsudome Communite Dome Festival Site, Sapporo 20-21 February 2016 Suigo Sakura Illumination Website Tachiyazawa, Shonai- Until 28 February 2016 machi, Higashitagawa-gun, 1051 Oiwata, Tsuchiura, Yuki Akari Yamagata Nishiyama 1-67 Ibaraki (Otaru Snow Light Path Website Website Festival) 2016 5-14 February 2016 Shinobu Sanzan Akatsuki Okunikko Yumoto Hot Otaru City, Hokkaido Mairi Spring Snow Festival Website 10-11 February 2016 13-27 February 2016 30 minute walk from Okunikko Yumoto Hot Hachinohe Enburi 2016 Fukushima Terebi Mae Bus Spring, Nikko, Tochigi Block 2 17-20 February 2016 Stop Website Block 5 Hachinohe (Map), Aomori Fukushima Station, Website Fukushima City, Fukushima Oigami Onsen Yuki Hotaru Block 3 Website 9 January 2016 - 27 Block 6 Kuroishi Jankara Yoi Yoi February 2016 Sake Festival 2016 Ojiya Hot Air Balloon Oigami Onsen, Oigami, Block 9 20 February 2016 Festival and Lights Tone-machi, Numata-shi, Block 10 Block 4 5-2 Ichinomachi, Kuroishi 27-28 February 2016 Gunma City, Aomori Nishinaka (Tournament) Website Website and Hirasawa (Rides), Ojiya Block 7 City, Niigata Konosu Surprise Doll Iwate Yuki Matsuri 2016 Website Festival 2016 Block 8 Until 7 February 2016 16 February 2016 - 06 March 36-1 Maruyachi, Tokamichi Yuki Matsuri 2016 Shizukuishi-cho, Iwate-gun, 19-21 February 2016 First Floor of Erumi Konosu Block 11 Iwate Jogaoka Pureland/Tokamichi Shopping Mall, Konosu City, What’s a Website High School/Around Saitama block? Tokamachi City, Niigata Website Click here! Yokote Kamakura Snow Website Festival 15-16 February 2016 Doro Koen Park, Yokote City, Akita Website 10 NEWS & EVENTS FEBRUARY 2016 NEWS & EVENTS 11
4 5 6 7 8 9 International Fureai 16th Nyuzen Ramen 20th Music Festival Sweat Jizou Festival The 17th Shikoku Sake A BIRD Theatre Festival Matsuri 07 February 2016 24 February 2016 Matsuri Performance of Snow 14 February 2016 27-28 February 2016 777 Bungei Seminariyo, Nakiri, Shima City, Mie 20 February 2016 White 4-5-1, Chuo, Chuo-ku, Chuo 5232-5, Nyuzen, Nyuzen- Omihachiman City, Azuchi- Website Sunrise Building, 27-28 February 2016 City, Chiba machi, Shimoniikawa-gun, cho, Kuwanomiji, Shiga Imakomachi, Tokushima Yodo Cultural Center, Website Toyama Website World Hobby Fair Website Yonago City, Tottori Website 07 February 2016 Website The 19th Japan Media Arts Kyoto Marathon Kyocera Dome, Osaka Sohonzan Zentsuji Festival Sugo Isobe Shrine Matsuri 21 February 2016 Website Temple Festival Monobe Shrine Setsubun 3-14 February 2016 10 February 2016 From Nishikyogoku Athletic 27-28 February 2016 Festival The National Art Center, Sugo Isobe Shrine, Daishouji Park to Heian-jingu Shrine Setsubun Mantoro 3-3-1 Zentsujicho, Zentsuji 2-03 February 2016 Tokyo (closed on 9th) Shikiji, Ruotsu, Kaga City, Website 3 February 2016 City, Kagawa Monobe Shrine, Oda City, Website Ishikawa Kasuga Taisha Shrine, Website Shimane Website Setsubun Matsuri Kasugano-cho, Nara City, Website Odawara Plum Festival 3 February 2016 (Annual) Nara Ehime Marathon 2016 Katsuyama Sagicho Ikuta Temple, Kobe City, Website 7 February 2016 Saidai-ji Eyo Hadaka 6 February 2016 - 6 March Festival Hyogo Ehime Ken-cho Mae, Matsuri 2016 27-28 February 2016 Website Kumano Otou Matsuri Matsuyama City, Ehime Third Saturday of February 389, Sogabessho, Odawara, Around Katsuyama Honcho, (Fire Festival) Website Saidai-ji Temple, Saidaiji- Kanagawa 250-0205 Katsuyama City, Fukui 6 February 2016 (annual) naka, Okayama Website Website Higashimuro Area, 42nd Ashizuri Camellia Website Kamikura Shrine, Festival Yokohama Chinatown Gifu no Fuyutabi Wakayama 7 February 2016 Shoto Garden Plum Tea Lunar New Year 2016 1-14 February 2016 Website Garden Ashizurimisaki, Gathering 8-22 February 2016 Nakao Okuhidaonsengo, Tosashimizu City, Kochi 6-07 February 2016 Yokohama Chinatown, Takayama City, Gifu Website Kure City, Hiroshima Yokohama-shi, Kanagawa Website Website Website The First Annual Demon and Fire Festival ‘Entirely Art’ Festival Hagi Plum Festival Moegi no Mura at Takiyama Temple 4-27 February 2016 27-28 February 2016 & 05- Illumination 13 February 2016 Kago no Oto 650, Showa, 06/12-13 March 2016 Until late February 2016 Takisan Temple, Okazaki Shimanto-cho, Takaoka-gun, 1125 Tsubaki, Hagi City, Kiyosato 3545, Takane- City, Aichi Kochi Yamaguchi cho, Hokuto, Yamanashi Website Website Website Prefecture Website Setsubun-e with Famous Sumo Wrestlers! 3 February 2016 (annual) Shinshoji Temple, Shizuoka Website 12 NEWS & EVENTS FEBRUARY 2016 NEWS & EVENTS 13
IN THE NEWS 10 11 DECEMBER - JANUARY December 16 In addition, joint-teams from Russia and the United States have been awarded claim of In a controversial decision, Japan’s Supreme discovery and naming rights for Elements Hatsu Uma Matsuri Sengoku Higo Matsuri Court upholds a 19th century law requiring 115, 117, and 118, completing the bottom row married couples to have the same surname. 6 February 2016 14 February 2016 of the periodic table. The law does not stipulate whether the name Kuroiwa Inari Shrine, Ogori Nagomi Town, Kumamoto taken must be the man’s or the woman’s; (Source) City, Fukuoka Website however, court papers show that 96% of Website January 8 Third Annual Hoppo couples choose the husband’s surname. The Yutoku Inari Shrine Cultural Festival ruling means more headaches for women in A survey conducted by Expedia Inc. shows 6 February 2016 28 February 2016 the workplace who keep their maiden names Japan comes first in the world in disregarding Yutoku Inari Shrine, Hoppou Cultural Center, for professional reasons and must now jump annual leave, with 53% of Japanese Kashima City, Saga Hoppoumachi, Miyazaki extra hurdles because their legal names respondents admitting they do not know how Website 1pm-3pm are different. The United Nations, citing many vacation days they are owed. Concerns gender discrimination, has pressured Japan over delays in meeting deadlines, shortages Nagasaki Lantern Kagi Hiki Matsuri repeatedly to revise the law, citing it as one of staff, and perceived inconvenience inflicted Festival (Log Tug-o-War Festival) of the few countries that requires married on colleagues are among reasons given by 8-22 February 2016 20 February 2016 (annual; couples to pick one surname. workers in not taking their paid leave. Japan Chuo Minato Park, Nagasaki third Sunday of February) (Source) also topped the poll in ratio of workers who City, Nagasaki Nakatsu Shrine, Kanoya feel guilt in taking vacation (18%) and who Website City, Kagoshima December 28 say they “cannot get work out of their minds” Website even during holidays (13%). Tennenji Shujouonie Japan and South Korea come to an agreement 14 February 2016 Yaese Sakura Matsuri on the long-term issue of “comfort women”, (Source) Tennenji, Nagaiwaya, Bungo, (Day & Night) a euphemism for women forced to work in January 11 Takada City, Oita 07 February 2016 Japanese military brothels during World Website Yaesemachi Park, Okinawa War II. Under the terms of the agreement, in Japan and the UK announce a commitment to Website addition to a “heartfelt apology”, Japan will deepen defense cooperation in 2016, with UK Oyama Plum Festival give 1 billion yen to the 46 surviving Korea Defense Secretary Michael Fallon announcing 21 February 2016 to 20 women forced into sexual slavery under reciprocal access to military bases and joint March 2016 Japan’s rule. Korea confirms that, given combat exercises, including some involving Okubodai Baien and Japan fulfills its promises, the deal will be the Royal Air Force’s Eurofighter Typhoon Furuyadai Baien in “irreversibly” resolved. The agreement gives aircraft in Japan. London and Tokyo have also Oyamamachi, Hita City, hope to those who hope to see a thaw in the agreed to increased information-sharing in the Kusu, Oita notoriously frosty relations between Seoul interest of cyber security and are looking into Website got an event and Tokyo. working with the US in joint cyber exercises. to promote? (Source) Last year, the UK cited Japan as its “closest let our editor security partner in Asia”. know here! December 30 (Source) A team from Japan will decide the official Sterling Diesel name and symbol of Element 113, marking the first time scientists from Asia make an addition to the Periodic Table of Elements. The announcement comes from the International Union of Pure and Applied Chemistry, which decided the team’s studies published from 2004 to 2012 give it the strongest claim to discovery. 14 NEWS & EVENTS FEBRUARY 2016 NEWS & EVENTS 15
COMING TO JAPAN IN 2016 JACK POWERS (HOKKAIDO) Hokkaido Shinkansen (March) The frontier will come even closer to the average salary-man this year. Hokkaido will become accessible by bullet train for the first time on March 26. The existing line between Tokyo and Shin- Aomori bullet train will be extended into Shin-Hakodate at Hokkaido’s southern tip. Japan Railways officials announced there will be 13 round-trip trains every day. The reported travel time between Tokyo and Shin-Hakodate will be around 4 hours and 10 minutes. Early reports out of JR Hokkaido are that a reserved-seat ticket on a bullet train between Shin-Hakodate and Tokyo will cost 22,690 yen, which is slightly cheaper than current airline fares between Tokyo and Hakodate. However, travelers wanting to go on to Sapporo and beyond will have to switch onto regular JR Hokkaido trains. (Source 1, 2) Jack Powers is from Chicago, Illinois. He is a middle school and elementary school assistant language teacher in Niikappu, Hokkaido. His hobbies include walking and eating apples. His favorite book is “The Hobbit.” 16 NEWS & EVENTS FEBRUARY 2016 NEWS & EVENTS 17
G7 Summit (May) Voting Age Lowers from 20 to 18 (July) Mountain Day (August) Tsukiji Moves (November) The 42nd G7 Summit will be held from May Legislation passed last June to lower Japan’s The Diet passed legislation for a new national Tsukiji, the world’s largest wholesale fish 26-27th in Shima, Mie Prefecture. Combined voting age to 18 will take effect this July, in holiday in 2014. The legislation will take and seafood market, is scheduled to move with practical factors like easy accessibility, time for the Upper House elections. The step effect this year, with its inaugural observance in November. The government’s decision to the site was chosen because of its close is meant to address the growing imbalance landing on August 11th. The holiday is relocate the market can be traced back all proximity to the legendary Ise Shrine. Prime between young and old in Japanese politics. dedicated to mountains and is Japan’s 16th the way to 2001. Early preparations for the Minister Shinzo Abe looks to show off the Less than a third of people in their 20s national holiday. Mountains make up roughly 2020 Tokyo Summer Olympics motivated majesty of traditional Japanese culture to exercised their right to vote in 2014’s general 70% percent of the Japanese archipelago the government to move ahead with its long- other world leaders, a popular move among election. That number jumps to 60% and and are seen as spiritually significant in the dormant plan. The world-famous market, his conservative base. Abe has said that he 68%, respectively, for people in their 60s and Shinto religion. The Japanese Alpine Club which celebrated the 80th anniversary of “hopes world leaders would feel and enjoy 70s. The unanimous decision from the Upper helped lobby for the new holiday as a way its founding this past year, will move three Japan’s rich culture and tradition, along with House of the Diet will add 2.4 million new to better connect people with the outdoors. kilometers south to Tokyo’s Toyosu district. its beautiful scenery.” The summit is expected voters. It remains to be seen how many of Though Japan already has the most national It’s unclear how the relocation will affect to be a boon for Mie’s economy. The G7 is these young voters will actually go to the polls holidays of any G8 country, the Diet’s passage the market financially this year, especially comprised of Japan, the United States, the and how their political interests will affect of the law is likely aimed more towards with November being part of its busy season. United Kingdom, Canada, France, Germany, upcoming elections. relieving Japan’s obsessive work culture than Tsukiji racked up 3.5 billion US dollars in and Italy. appeasing mountain-climbing fanatics. sales in 2015. The current site will be used to (Source 1, 2) complete Loop Line 2, planned to be a major (Source 1, 2) (Source 1, 2) transportation artery for the 2020 Games. Pour out some extra soy sauce on your sushi for the old Tsukiji this year. Ashley Dorrell, Margaret Pickard, Wikicommons (Source 1, 2) 18 NEWS & EVENTS FEBRUARY 2016 NEWS & EVENTS 19
ARTS Arts & Culture Faces in Fashion 22 When Sexy Isn’t Pretty 24 Staff Book Picks 27 & CULTURE Japan’s Short Sci-Fi Master 28 Where the Dead Pause 30 Better Late Than Never 32 Mastering Kyuushoku Conversations 34 CULTURE EDITORS connect.culture@ajet.net Rayna Healy Trying to keep morale strong after returning from a tropical Winter vacation in Cambodia. Lots of time under the kotatsu is all that can help me now Joyce Wan Have already broken my resolution not to sleep in any more airports in 2016. FASHION EDITORS connect.fashion@ajet.net Elena Galindo Erica Grainger February’s my favorite month, with my birthday & Valentine’s Day! Cue: champagne & romantic red attire! ENTERTAINMENT EDITORS connect.entertainment@ajet.net Timothy Saar Started three hobbies this year: calligraphy, volleyball, and LARP. My geek has grown too powerful. Sabrina Zirakzadeh 2016 so far: Rediscovered classic sci-fi and subjected my neighbors to nonstop Hamilton. Fun times! Illaura Rossiter 20 FEBRUARY 2016 21
FACES IN FASHION FA JUN TAKAHASHI TAKAHASH OF UNDERCOVER ELENA GALINDO (SHIZUOKA) Age: 45 Occupation: Designer Label: UNDERCOVER Originally born out of inspiration from punk music and punk sub-culture, UNDERCOVER is a label that doesn’t subscribe to any fashion rules. The punk spirit, though subdued, continues to live on in pieces that are easily recognizable as inventive and edgy, with the occasional touch of humor. This is a brand for those who don’t take themselves too seriously, and who aren’t afraid to be rebellious, by pushing the boundaries of fashion. Claim to Fame Jun Takahashi is the designer and founder of UNDERCOVER, a label with an almost cult- like following at the forefront of Harajuku fashion culture in the early 1990s. Heavily influenced by punk and the Sex Pistols, Takahashi’s earlier designs strived to go against the grain, which helped garner the label many dedicated fans from a variety of fashion sub-cultures and counter-cultures. Takahashi and his designs do not only appeal to trendy individuals imbued with the punk spirit—Takahashi has shown at Tokyo and Paris Fashion Week, and is twice the recipient of the Mainichi Fashion Grand Prize. Today he continues to produce avant-garde pieces for UNDERCOVER, as well as more commercial designs through collaborations with labels such as Nike and UNIQLO. Official Homepage Official Instagram Elena Galindo 22 ARTS & CULTURE FEBRUARY 2016 ARTS & CULTURE 23
WHEN SEXY ISN’T There comes a tipping point, In Japan, it is well known the “hump” as we’d say, that the magazines are very when nothing in an adopted segmented into defined PRETTY culture can really be all genres. But when it comes that surprising anymore. to young fashion, there are This is especially true in two major groups: Aka-moji my experience working in (Red-letter) and Ao-moji A CULTURE SHOCK fashion in Japan. I’ve seen my share of fashion with (Blue-letter) magazines. The latter refers to Harajuku IN JAPANESE flair while living in Tokyo— styles, where people dress the yamambas, cyber goth, for themselves and their shironuri and kigurumin— personalities. While the “PRETTY” STYLE FASHION but they wouldn’t make me former Red-letter magazines surprised. In fact, those are refer to dressing for *someone something I *expect* to see else*. […] I couldn’t believe MISHA JANETTE (TOKYO) as someone interested in the that the style lived up to its subcultures. name: it was really all about being “attractive” to men. It But recently I was learning flew in the face of my personal about a type of fashion that (and perhaps clouded) stance, that honestly took me by that “fashion” was always surprise. I had never really something very personal cared to pay much attention and for ourselves only. to it, but when I did I was This “Pretty-style” actually taken aback in a slow-simmer seemed very… taboo. way. Kind of like hearing a country cover of a hip hop “Sweet” over “sexy” song that takes a few minutes seems almost taboo?! to process. So what was this UNDERCOVER fashion that confuggled me? It’s *drum roll* In the west, “dressing for men” obviously means … “Mote-kei.” something VERY different. The makeup can be high- Mote-kei (mo-tay-kay) is maintenance “natural” or translated as Pretty-style but very “glammed-up”, but the it literally means “attractive- clothing is always, always style”. It is a way of dressing SEXY. Lots of skin, legs, pretty, with a defined goal cleavage or tight, tight, tight. of catching or keeping a That is what “dressing for (Japanese) man/woman. men” means 90% of the time. Learning about mote-kei and So while looking at the styles just how penetrative its ideas in the Red-letter Japanese for catching the opposite sex magazines, I noticed they through clothing are really were showing skin, but it was awakened in me a renewed very calculated ..and there urge to get to the bottom of was not a lot of it. They were something. Usually fashion is demure, sweet, and innocent, just fashion. But sometimes with just a bit of spice. Not there is something more standing out too much, there. Luckily, I had the looking very approachable, perfect opportunity to go and most certainly following head-to-head with it. And “mass market” trends were you may find it curious as to the main schtick. It almost Misha Janette what happened… […] seemed retro. I couldn’t get 24 ARTS & CULTURE FEBRUARY 2016 ARTS & CULTURE 25
STAFF the term “Mad Men-era” out every page had something lot about the differences in of my noggin when reading it. soft on it. It looked so being a “man’s girl” in terms But I needed to learn more. comfortable and warm. I of style. I was happy to see BOOK PICKS Is this REALLY what Pretty- looked in my closet and: no that sexy doesn’t necessarily style was all about? sweaters! Not one knit item. mean Pretty kei. There is a I always thought of knit as lot of pressure for girls in the It’s all fantasy? fuzzy, like mold is fuzzy. Ick, west to be sexy as if that is UNDERCOVER not for me. But this time… the only way to attract men. maybe. Alright, I got this. But here in Japan there is a Kafka on the Shore […] At least I could get a fuzzy whole ‘nother layer and way Haruki Murakami The most important keywords sweater, right? […] of doing things. This doesn’t of Pretty style to note is mean I don’t think a lot of it This book will make you want to visit the So finally I bit the bullet isn’t silly, because it is. But forests of Shikoku and eat unagi. My favorite romantic fantasy. I learned and went for the fuzziest if we want to talk silliness, character is Nakata because I am also an at the magazine that much of thing I could find in the one only needs to look at our illiterate in Japan! Pretty style is about the girls most Red-letter brand in Cosmopolitan (smh). Dating writing romantic fantasies in Becca Simas Laforet; Snidel. Snidel! I culture is also obviously way their minds. The uniform for Co-Sports Editor know, surprising right! I was different (another topic for this happens to be flirty, fuzzy trying to be inconspicuous another day). and comfortable. Although and practically tiptoed in everyone says that the fuzzy, but that’s hard when I`m a Born in Washington State, soft clothing is so that guys buy buy buy foreigner who stands out, and Misha moved to Tokyo in 2004 will want to put their hand the sales assistant recognized to study at the prestigious on you, I personally think me from Bunka. My cover was Bunka Fashion College which it’s really just because it’s blown! In any case, I tried on counts Yohji Yamamoto and comfortable to wear…for the a sweater and skirt ensemble Kenzo as graduates. Misha *girls* themselves. […] that was SO fuzzy, it was like was named as one of Business I could understand the a carpet. I couldn’t tell if this of Fashion’s “500 people fantasy part, but I couldn’t made me “mote” or not. I was shaping the global industry” believe that this was all really feeling uneasy about this (BoF500) for Japan along for the men. Do men really experiment… […] with Comme des Garcon’s prefer this sweetiepie sort of Kawakubo Rei and Junya ..but life never turns out the Watanabe in 2014. You can fashion?? I wanted to call up way we expect, does it? Turns find her on Instagram and at my Japanese boyfriends and out I was going to be the her website. ask. But then I realized that least “pretty” of em all. Those thought alone meant I was fuzzy hairs? They were flying Read the full piece here. trying to discredit the culture everywhere! It was in the air, here by believing that the on their clothes, and in the Japanese Fairy Tales Trout Fishing in America sexxed-up version of a woman food! I was swallowing them. Yei Ozaka Richard Brautigan was somehow “correct” and a This article They were like magnets to far more girlie “Pretty-style” is a direct everything but the vessel they As a child, fairy tales fostered my This book has nothing to do with couldn’t be. […] excerpt from were *supposed* to stay on. I affection for foreign cultures. This fishing, but Brautigan is a cool writer the original at Pretty-kei, pretty tough was being more of a nuisance book provides a reference point for who inspired Murakami (and even Tokyo Fashion than a prodigy. And then one being in one of those cultures. called Japan home for a while). to pull off UNDERCOVER Diaries. of my male guests said to Liam Nolan Pia Peterson Perhaps because the season me, “You look very Harajuku now, Copy Editor Co-Travel Editor is changing and it makes us today.” Huh?!! The point was pose for the all a bit weird, but I had a to not look Harajuku. I failed camera! thought: Should I take on a big time. I am going to stick challenge?! Try Pretty style?! to my styles I know best. But I was laughing at myself I am sure feelin’ this retro for thinking it. But looking style kick, pretty style or not. through the clothes in the magazines, I realized that So in the end, I learned a iTunes 26 ARTS & CULTURE FEBRUARY 2016 ARTS & CULTURE 27
SHINICHI HOSHI, JAPAN’S SHORT SCI-FI MASTER RACHEL PATERSON (OKAYAMA) 2016 is the 90th anniversary than five pages long. Hoshi is forays to the stars. Rather than of the birth of Shinichi Hoshi, the most prolific short-short weaving epic or scientifically one of Japan’s most beloved writer in Japan, with over precise tales, Hoshi used and popular authors. Despite 1,000 works published before sci-fi elements to highlight this, outside of Japan his work his death in 1997, and more the human condition. His remains relatively unknown. than 100 collections currently stories inspired writer Since many of Hoshi’s works in publication. (1) Haruki Murakami (Kafka on will be re-released this year in the Shore, 1Q84) and anime honor of his birthday, why not Hoshi’s stories cover many legend Tezuka Osamu (Astro acquaint yourself with this genres, but he is best known Boy, Metropolis), and are still little-known, but wonderful, for his poignant science- much beloved by Japan to writer? fiction. His most famous this day. work, Bokko-chan, tells the Shinichi Hoshi was born in story of a robot built to work The short length of Hoshi’s 1926 in Tokyo. He studied at a bar and the men who stories makes them easily agricultural chemistry in fall in love with her without accessible to most levels of university but dropped out of realizing she isn’t human. Japanese learners, while his graduate studies program Other tales include aliens their subject matter shines to work at a pharmacy and to befriending children who a light illuminates Japanese pursue writing. He published forget them once they are attitudes in a unique and his first short story, Sextra, in grown, mysterious holes in insightful way. For fans of 1957. He specialized in short- the earth from which nothing sci-fi, the human condition, short stories—often referred emerges but people still flock or poetic writing, Shinichi to as “flash fiction”—with to, and otherworldly beings Hoshi is one Japanese author most of his fiction being less observing humanity’s first you must seek out. Rachel Paterson is an ALT living in Okayama. She loves I’m ready science-fiction of all kinds for my Um, I’m a and thanks her partner for closeup, writer... introducing her to Mr. Hoshi’s Mr. Hoshi! work. Sources (1) The Hoshi Library 新潮社 28 ARTS & CULTURE FEBRUARY 2016 ARTS & CULTURE 29
BOOK REVIEW WHERE THE DEAD PAUSE AND THE JAPANESE SAY GOODBYE RAYNA HEALY (SHIMANE) Marie Mutsuki Mockett, Grief, of course, is utterly not actually alone. Whether an American woman, was personal and intimidatingly they are alive or dead, they struggling with depression big. In the West, there are are not alone” (3). while dealing with the loss of few rituals surrounding her father and the prospect grief (2). Grief is a private Mockett’s book explores of burying her grandfather’s wound that is nurtured on grief and recovery through bones in Japan. That’s when a more individual level. In her own experiences and disaster struck in the forms Japan, grief and death have through the cultural lens of an earthquake, tsunami, a communal place. Every and national experience of a and nuclear disaster, the year when the deceased are grieving Japan. It’s worth the latter of which occurred just welcomed back during Obon. read for the insights, ideas, 25 miles from her family- Mockett found Toro Nagashi, and cultural commentary owned temple. a lantern floating festival at on grieving in Japan and a the end of Obon, a particularly reminder that hope lies in a Mockett’s return to Japan poignant experience. During compassion born of common after the disaster led her on this event, people write the human experience. a journey deep into the heart names of deceased family of a suffering Japan. She members on lanterns and Sources comes face to face with not f loat them in a river at (1) “After Father’s Death, A Writer just her own grief but with sunset. This represents the Learns How ‘The Japanese the grief of an entire nation. Say Goodbye’” NPR. NPR. return of deceased souls to Web. 15 Jan. 2016. In her book, Where the Dead the afterlife. Pause and the Japanese Say (2) Murray, Colleen I., Katalin Goodbye, we follow Mockett The river lights up like a night Toth, and Samantha S. Clinkinbeard. “Death, Dying, across Japan as she meets sky, an enormity of souls and Grief in Families.” 75-95. with priests and tsunami remembered and beloved. It’s Online. survivors. Mockett sees that impossible to keep track of (3) Mockett, M. M. (2015). in Japan “there are all of these one’s own lanterns in a river Where the dead pause, and wonderful traditions which filled with so much light, the Japanese say goodbye: take individual pain... and dispersing the concentrated A journey. W. W. Norton & cast it against the backdrop grief. Mockett notices that Company. of… human suffering” (1) the lanterns begin to cluster iTunes This doesn’t exactly shrink together as they travel your own individual pain but farther and farther down the grows the context in which river. For Mockett, watching you see it. the lanterns cling to each other, and being surrounded by hundreds of anonymous people during a goodbye that was deeply intimate, made her realize that “[p]eople are 30 ARTS & CULTURE FEBRUARY 2016 ARTS & CULTURE 31
BETTER LATE That’s because it is, and all of it needs to be okayed by Hollywood first. THAN NEVER we’re late! Piracy, or lack thereof we’re late! Another factor slowing down WESTERN MOVIES IN JAPAN release dates in Japan is the lack of film piracy. You could argue the severe penalties DANIEL KENNEY (OKAYAMA) against piracy (10 million yen and ten years in prison) keep If you’re like me, you enjoy A little about the Preparation is key; most in Japan from pirating Hollywood movies. You also Japanese film industry patience is a virtue movies. Whatever the reason, most likely enjoy watching piracy is not an issue here, them in theatres, with people, In the 1960s, Japan had Delaying a release is one and thus not a factor in timely like a civilized human being. around 7,000 theatres, and way distributors secure that releases as in China or South attendance was high. These return. Seeing how a movie Korea. However, if you enjoy days, Japan has just over performs in other countries for Hollywood movies and you 3,000 screens, compared to the and markets gives them Now that you have a general a very live in Japan, you may have U.S.’s 40,000. In order to stay hard data they can use to idea of why foreign movies important... noticed that most of the world profitable, the time-honored convince people to part with take so long to get here, release gets to see them before you strategy of raising ticket their 1,800-2,300 yen. If what is there to be done? Not date! do. prices has been employed, you are Japanese language- much, I’m afraid. Japan isn’t plus expensive concessions savvy, you’ve seen the, “All known for changing its ways, okay... I’ll What gives? What do and merchandising. In of America loved this film” especially when there is no stop... Mongolia and Tunisia have addition, Japan’s domestic or “Worldwide Big Hit” incentive to do so. All I can that Japan doesn’t? Does film industry commands messages before the trailer tell you is make patience one Japan simply like to let its most of the space on those gets underway. Positive of your cardinal virtues. foreign movies age, like wine? screens, with an average of word of mouth gets people in nearly 60% of the market theatres, after all. Daniel Kenney thinks the fact The answer to that is, “Yeah, since the 2000’s. Hollywood that ‘Yokai Watch the Movie 2: kind of.” A combination of hasn’t commanded the The delay also buys King Enma and the 5 Stories, factors keeps most foreign Japanese market since the time for promotion and Nyan!’ beat ‘Star Wars’ in releases from arriving in early 90s. This situation merchandising. Hollywood overall tickets sold paints a Japanese movie theatres on leaves Japanese distributors A-listers have a chance to eat grim future for Japan. He time, and it’s not because hesitant to take chances sushi on a variety show and also thinks Timothy Dalton the Japanese film industry is on foreign films that could sell their movie. Failing that, wasn’t a bad James Bond. stupid and hates us, as I once tank, or cut into the profits the Japanese dub actors often Follow him on Twitter to see thought. of the newest Yokai Watch get touted as the stars of the what else he thinks, or to tell sequel. They’re running a movie and do press junkets. him how wrong he is. jurassic If you have ever stopped by iTunes world the movie release dates 2015.06.12 2015.08.05 iceland, 2015.06.16 2015.06.24 japan morocco, mongolia tunsia ...sorry... usa, etc. business and, like any business, they want a guaranteed return on their theatre gift shop, you may investment. have noticed merchandise that seems Japan-specific. 32 ARTS & CULTURE FEBRUARY 2016 ARTS & CULTURE 33
MASTERING Kids like talking about their This question will probably they like from the placemats family, and this is usually garner you replies like they use, and so much more. a good way to go about it. Yokai-watch, Dragonball, I’ve seen my kids studiously KYUUSHOKU It’s also a really great way Crayon Shin-chan, Kyary practicing their kanji or to know how your students Pamyu Pamyu or Youtube’s making origami before lunch are connected in the school, Hikkakin. What this also is served. Asking them about CONVERSATIONS you’ll find very often that means is that you may need to it is bound to get a response, the ninensei you’re talking to keep hip on Japanese popular and maybe even a lesson is actually the sister of that culture—good luck! worthy of Wikihow on the naughty boy in Grade 6. intricacies of making orizuru. 6. Up Your Janken Game (EMMA RUITERS, HOKKAIDO) 誰が好きの? I am sometimes asked, and Thus, we arrive at the By the grace of the 1952 1. Body Language: of Moses. This made me come this always comes without conclusion of this navigation Dare ga suki no? of kyuushoku niceties. School Lunch Law, around Channel Your Energy off as quite formal and adult context, to play Janken— 12 o’clock on weekdays, all to the kids. At home, most of Japan’s version of Rock, Hopefully, this has provided Entering the classroom can Who do you like? you with inspiration, or across Japan, kyuushoku— them never use -masu form. Paper, Scissors. A boy will that delicious, healthy be nerve-wracking, especially maybe it’s just enlightened The best advice I got was to I like to call this one Weapon turn around in his chair, lunch—is carried by earnest when you don’t know any of you to this writer’s lonely use plain form and no instead X. This really gets the crowd and just command me to elementary and junior high the kids in that class—worse struggles. So the next time of desu ka for questions. I saw going, but it can go two Janken with him. When you schoolers to their classrooms, when kids are rushing you, you drop your tray beside that a noticeable improvement in ways: “we’re too young and least expect it, they strike carefully distributed and furiously janken-ing for you cool rokunensei, remember to my students’ responses to me. innocent to like anyone” or from the shadows, so make promptly devoured by hungry to sit at their table, and drop some Weapon X too; it total disclosure! Prepare to sure you’re always prepared! students. generally clamouring for your 4. Wear Something may just be the tool you need get the low-down on who likes Don’t be afraid to issue a attention. With a precarious Strange to connect with those tricky whom and who is dating in few challenges of your own. As an ALT teaching in tray of ramen clamped tightly pre-teens. And with that, I guess I stumbled right into the grade 6 class. Remember: if two people’s elementary school, you may to your torso, you just barely gochisousamadeshita! this one, but a regular part eyes meet, they have to battle! be expected to eat lunch with manage to muster a nervous ドラマとかアニメとか漫画とか smile. Smile, keep your body of my style is a lanyard with 7. Be Observant Joyce Wan your students, and if you my keys and a big red gorilla 何が好きの? have you’ll know it as one of language open, remember not to high-five (or is it hai- on it. I know, I’m a veritable Dorama toka anime toka Lastly, be observant. You’ll two things: amazingly fun fashionista. However, this be surprised about how much or soul crushingly awkward. tachi?) anyone while holding manga toka nani ga suki no? your tray (oops…) and just never fails to generate you can learn just by looking This may include desperately excitement wherever I go— around—what books the kids utilizing your limited enjoy the proceedings. What drama/anime/manga/ even amongst chuugakusei! game do you like? are reading, what characters Japanese to understand the 2. Take an Interesting On days when I don’t wear it, cute albeit incomprehensible Set of Chopsticks I get asked where it is. ichinensei, fielding questions from four sannensei who seem What elementary schooler 5. Ask Some Leading to expect you answer them all can resist commenting on Questions simultaneously, attempting to their sensei’s set of rad get a conversation going with Pokémon chopsticks? You’d Having asked around amongst aloof rokunensei, warding off be surprised how much my ALT friends, and from inappropriate questions or conversation can be had what works for me, there seem merely attempting to stymie over just two pieces of wood. to be three real winners that your pain as absolutely Sometimes, I switch it up and really get the conversation everyone eats in solemn take in a pretty lacquered going in elementary school. 7 tips before it silence. From my first set—which female yonnensei Warning: one of them is more to conquer gets you... rather awkward kyuushoku never fail to appreciate. appropriate for gonensei and kyuushoku! experience, I have spent hours rokunensei. 3. Mind Your Language quiet! since attempting to foolproof (or don’t) 兄弟は何人の? back in my kyuushoku game, and the pot!! have produced these seven When I first arrived, fresh off Kyoudai wa nannin no? tips for your reading pleasure. the boat, I could not be parted Itadakimasu! from my polite -masu form How many siblings do you while speaking Japanese, have? even if you enlisted the help 34 ARTS & CULTURE FEBRUARY 2016 ARTS & CULTURE 35
LIFESTYLE Lifestyle Niseko Restaurant Spotlight 38 Vietnam in Tiny Boxes 44 White Water Rafting in Shikoku 48 Japanese Bento Guide 51 FOOD EDITORS connect.food@ajet.net Alexandra Brueckner If anybody needs me for the next two months, I’ll be snowboarding waist-deep in Hakkoda’s powder. Mira Richard-Fioramore TRAVEL EDITORS connect.travel@ajet.net Leah Gray 2016 has been an enjoyable year so far. I can’t wait to see what the rest of the year will be like! Pia Peterson Taking advantage of this mild winter to get in the 3 R’s—reading, running, and rewatching old films. Illaura Rossiter 36 FEBRUARY 2016 37
NISEKO Japan’s a haven for those The Niseko Supply Company of us who love winter Quality cheese is something a lot of us are sports, and Niseko, a huge RESTAURANT guilty of missing while living in Japan, but mega-resort composed of four the fondue at Niseko Supply Company is smaller ones that’s located amazing enough to fill that void. There is no about an hour and a half by train way that you’ll leave this place still hungry. SPOTLIGHT from Sapporo, is widely considered Their cheese fondue weighs in at more than one of the best spots in the country for 200 grams of cheese allotted per person (!) powder hounds. Though for all of its powder and odds are that you’ll be wiping down the stashes and pristine groomers, Niseko has a pot with chunks of bread to get every last drop ALEXANDRA BRUECKNER (AOMORI) lot to offer off of the slopes, especially when it of it. Just make sure to save room for dessert; comes to food. Niseko Supply Company is just as famous for Whether you’re craving something Japanese its crepes as it is its melted cheese. or otherwise, sweet or savory, cheap or a bit Reservations: 0136-55-8861 more expensive, Niseko has plenty of options 〒044-0081北海道虻田郡倶知安町字山田 190-13 niseko’s that’ll silence your growling stomach in no temptintg time. Here are seven spots that’ll make your Lava Lounge crepes winter holiday memorable for more than just the time spent on the slopes. If your cheese craving runs more towards the pizza end of the spectrum, Lava Lounge Rakuichi is where it’s at. With none of the “ketchup on toast” disappointments that Japan is There’s soba… and there’s Rakuichi soba. Soba sometimes guilty of serving, Lava Lounge’s master Rai, and his wife Midori, run this tiny pizza is the real deal. You can stick to the twelve-seat restaurant, and the buckwheat standard toppings like pepperoni, Hawaiian, noodles, painstakingly made in front of your and margherita, but the more unique eyes, are bound to be some of the best you’ll offerings—like shrimp and snow crab with ever have in Japan. Reservations are required coriander or chicken, Camembert, and sun- (often months in advance) for a seven-course dried tomatoes—are what make Lava Lounge kaiseki dinner. However lunch is a first-come, worth a visit. first-serve affair, though be prepared to wait. Reservations: 0136-55-8797 The freshness of the food and care with which 〒044-0081北海道虻田郡倶知安町字山田 191-29 it’s made makes it all worth it, though. Reservations: 0136-58-3170 Abucha 2 北海道 虻田郡ニセコ町 字ニセコ 431 A good portion of Abucha 2’s menu is standard izakaya fare: zangi (Hokkaido-style fried chicken), skewers of pork and chicken, lazy? and plenty of gyoza. Those are we link to delicious, to be sure, but if you maps! come to Abucha 2 and don’t indulge in some shabu-shabu, you’ll be sorely missing out. Abucha 2’s menu boasts lots of shabu-shabu, sukiyaki, and nabe options. Carnivores will love the high-quality Hokkaido beef, while seafood lovers can go for the snow crab option. And if spicy food is your jam, than the kimchinabe will be calling your name. Reservations: 0136-22-5620 〒044-0081 北海道虻田郡倶知安町字山田191-29水墨1階 38 LIFESTYLE FEBRUARY 2016 LIFESTYLE 39
abucha 2’s jiucy meat lava lounge’s seafood pizza 40 LIFESTYLE FEBRUARY 2016 LIFESTYLE 41
Fridge Bar Though technically this place’s name is Bar Gyu+, everyone knows it as the Fridge Bar… because its door is (you guessed it) an old- fashioned refrigerator door that you’ll have to duck through to enter. Inside, the bar is homey and darkly lit and soundtracked by jazz. It’s the perfect place to grab a drink, whether you’re waiting for your dinner or digesting it. No reservations needed, call: 0136-23-1432 〒044-0081 北海道虻田郡倶知安町字山田 167-21 Milk Kobo Life is better with ice cream. Life is best with Milk Kobo ice cream. Made with fresh Hana 1 Café ingredients from a nearby ranch, Milk Kobo’s Hana 1 Café isn’t much more than a tiny ice cream is so good that you’ll crave it even hut located at the base of Hanazono, one of when you’re half-frozen after a day on the the resorts that make up Niseko. Their hot mountain. The small café offers flavors like chocolate is nothing short of amazing. It’s green tea, strawberry, cookies ‘n’ cream, and made with real Hershey’s syrup (no powdered vanilla, and the on-site bakery means that you mix here!) and milk that’s steamed to hot, can pick up baked sweets like cheese soufflé frothy perfection and then topped with a and tarts, too. massive marshmallow that’s nearly as big as No reservations needed, call: 0136-44-3734 the cup’s mouth. It’s the perfect way to warm 〒048-1522 北海道虻田郡ニセコ町曽我 888-1 up your hands and stomach between runs. Hirafu Intersection food Alexandra Brueckner, Texture.com trucks If your wallet is getting a little slim or if you just want to grab a bite between runs, the food trucks that are near the main intersection in Hirafu, Niseko’s largest resort, are your best bet. Whether you decide to go for the Turkish kebabs, fish ‘n’ chips, freshly made personal flatbread pizzas, or Indian food, your choice likely won’t cost you much more than a thousand yen, and it’s pretty much guaranteed hana 1 to be just as delicious café’s hot as any of the food you’ll chocolate get in the town’s restaurants. 42 LIFESTYLE FEBRUARY 2016 LIFESTYLE 43
VIETNAM IN TINY BOXES PIA PETERSON (YAMAGATA) While breaking out of the daily Licences for conversion incredible dishes. routine and traveling around into temporary Vietnamese Japan is a pleasure, there is licences (you should talk Hanoi a lot to be said for getting out to your local DMV or AAA and exploring the neighbors representative for more info). The northern capital of that lie across that wee strip You can then rent a bike for Vietnam. The winding streets of blue ocean. Following on about US $5 a day, or buy and open cafes have earned the heels of December’s piece one outright for about US this city a lot of comparisons on Thailand, here’s a glimpse $250 and resell it after you’ve to Boston or Paris. It is at traveling in Vietnam and made your journey. Buses are beautiful, with old buildings making the most of a cheap plentiful and there are many and lots of small lakes within ticket. small-time travel agencies the city’s borders to wander that will help get you a seat around between meals. Hanoi Visa with legroom and, more is also the jump-off point for importantly, air conditioning. the mountains, Sapa, and the Vietnam’s visa process has world cultural heritage site changed recently, and the Buses run about US $1 for every hour. For example, a Ha Long Bay. embassy website warns travelers to watch out for sixteen-hour bus between Hoi An companies that promise visa Mui Ne and Hoi An would on arrival, but then don’t be about US $15. Watch out People go to Hoi An to fall deliver. If you don’t live near a for taxis, which will likely in love, and end up falling consulate, then I recommend overcharge you, and always in love with the city. Its My Vietnam Visa. For a ask a hostel if they can “old town” was inhabited “Visa Approval Letter”, the provide a bicycle at the time at various times in history My Vietnam Visa company of booking. If you’re driving by the Chinese, French, charges US $35, followed by a a motorbike, traffic is hectic and Japanese, and has a US $25 charge for the actual and we saw more than one remarkably well-preserved visa at the airport. This can vacationer with road rash colonial atmosphere. The take 3 to 5 business days. and an arm in a sling. Vietnamese are extremely Minimal stress, minimal proud of Hoi An, and others Where to go? waiting room time. come here for the beauty, food Ho Chi Minh City (crab doughnuts and banana Travel flower salad, to name a few), Formerly known as Saigon, it and the beach. Most airlines that f ly to is the largest city in Vietnam. Japan service Hanoi and Ho Mui Ne It’s a busy place, with 6 Chi Minh, and transfers in million motorbikes for its 9 the country to smaller areas Quieter than the party beach million residents. If you can like Hoi An go for about US town of Nha Trang, Mui Ne handle the bustle and don’t $50. Once in the country, is an interesting place that have a problem walking all your options are endless. is caught between Vietnam, over the fairly spread out With a few weeks’ notice, Russia, and paradise. The city, you’ll discover that it’s it’s simple to get a Vietnam inf lux of tourists during a mecca of street food, cheap driver’s license, and as of winter means that the beach ‘fresh beer’ brewed locally, 2015 Vietnam is accepting town caters to foreigners, and specialized restaurants Inter national Driver ’s with a Mexican and an that only serve one or two 44 LIFESTYLE FEBRUARY 2016 LIFESTYLE 45
Indian restaurant along dock somewhere. the country is in the tropical the strip. It’s also home to zone, fresh exotic fruits a remarkably quiet fishing Safety and fresh fish are available village with miles and miles If you drop your wallet in everywhere for the same low of empty beaches in the Vietnam, don’t expect it to price. I recommend taking mornings. A relaxing break be delivered to your house a cooking class, preferably from the chaos of Ho Chi the next day. Tourism is a big one that will give you a tour Minh City, Mui Ne gives you business, and some people of the market and explain the option of learning more will try to take advantage of what are those green, spiky, about Vietnamese food and that. Make sure you don’t get football-sized fruits (spoiler culture away from the major into unlicensed taxis or ones alert: the famous stinky cities. Though the creature without meters, lock up your durian) and what to even do comforts of a good huevos stuff in a shared hostel, and with a fertilized duck egg. rancheros and bars aren’t too keep your cell phone and cash I’ll leave that one a mystery. far away if you need them. close to you at all times when Some great cookbooks about you’re out walking around. Vietnamese cuisine are Into Hue the Vietnamese Kitchen by Budgeting Andre Ngyuen, and The Food Hue is famous as the old of Vietnam by Luke Ngyuen imperial capital of Vietnam, From Narita to Ho Chi Minh (no relation). and hosts the Forbidden City, or Hanoi, airline tickets Purple City, the old imperial can run as little as ¥30,000. Warnings aside, the point of grounds- so beautiful it really Once in Vietnam (where the travel is to explore, discover, did move me to tears. The city exchange rate is roughly and enjoy yourself. Vietnam is gorgeous and interesting, 20,000 dong for every ¥100), is a beautiful country with and the imperial grounds, both food and accommodation delicious food that is definitely occasionally damaged in its can be remarkably cheap. worth a trip! 1,000-year history, has been Most meals cost less than US remarkably well-preserved $2/¥250, and a bed for the Pia Peterson and night can be US $4.50/¥600, even in extremely popular Phu Quoc, Ha Long Bay, areas. If you’re staying in and Sapa one place, you can get by fairly cheaply! However, if These are three of the main you’re traveling around the tourism draws of Vietnam. country, here is some advice: They’re incredibly beautiful We saw the majority of our and draw a lot of tourists, money going to taxis at the which for some people ruins beginning of our trip, so we the beauty. Aside from Phu started planning ahead. A Quoc, an island south of Ho few minutes of research on Chi Minh City, they are easily distances, neighborhoods, accessible through organized and Google Maps, as well trips from Hanoi. Unless as asking a reliable person you are centering your trip ahead of time for a quote, around one of these places, helped us avoid any additional I recommend researching expenses. your options for a package tour. These are usually Food run by hostels, hotels, or independent travel agents This is one of the main who will take care of all of reasons that people travel to the steps of getting you safely Vietnam. A banh mi or bowl of down the fairly complicated pho on the street will be tasty, road of point A to point B satisfying, and cost you less without stranding you on a than a dollar. Because most of 46 LIFESTYLE FEBRUARY 2016 LIFESTYLE 47
WHITE WATER Perfect Days, Happy Raft, Number One Boat name stuck. and the Yoshino River The water was a lovely Surfing RAFTING Tsukuda Every now and then I have a emerald color, and I couldn’t day that I can look back on wait to get it in. It was time Around lunchtime, Sushi and say, “Wow, that day was to divide into groups and be asked us if we wanted to perfect. I wouldn’t change a assigned a guide. I grabbed try surfing. Allison and I IN SHIKOKU Minawa single thing about it.” The my friends Allison and took him up on his offer. At 2015 Hiroshima AJET White Kelsey, and we found three the bottom of the stretch of Water Rafting Trip turned more people to complete our rapids we had just navigated, out to be one of those days. group. Our guide, “Sushi”, the white water was ideal for LEAH GRAY (HIROSHIMA) came over and introduced testing our ability to “surf”, Canyoning company Happy Raft was our gracious host, himself. He gave us basic which basically meant “cling providing us with great instructions on how to steer to the raft for dear life for as guides, as well as all of our the raft and work as a team, long as possible before you Iyaguchi equipment. and what to do if someone fell inevitably fall off.” out. Then we spent some time Awa-Kawaguchi Getting Ready practicing on a calm stretch We watched as, one by one, of water. His instructions for the groups in front of us did After signing the necessary just that—some lasting a navigating rapids always got paperwork, we pulled few seconds, some lasting a us to move quickly—someone our wetsuits on over our good deal longer. Everyone from another raft later told swimsuits. The weather was was having a blast though, me that they could always absolutely beautiful, so, even and with a mixture of hear us as we went down though it was the beginning anticipation and nerves, it the rapids because Sushi Koboke of October, I wasn’t worried was finally our turn. I braced hey, sounded like a drill sergeant. Mt. Nakatsu about being cold. The staff myself, listening carefully remember Our raft didn’t capsize once handed us our lifejackets, for Sushi’s instructions, and that time we when it wasn’t supposed helmets, and paddles. then—oops!—we got pushed went... to, so all that time he spent Everyone wrote their names away by the current after Mt. Kunimi yelling “GET DOWN” wasn’t on their helmets so that we only a couple of seconds in wasted. could easily identify each the churning water. Nothing other. Next, it was time to We rotated positions around to fear though; we hadn’t load up the buses. Most of the raft, but for the first part missed our opportunity. the people there were a part of the journey I was one of Sushi paddled back around, of our group, but there was two people in the front. This and before we knew it, it was also another AJET group and meant that it was my job to our turn again. Oboke some other smaller groups. stay in sync with the other Before long, we had arrived person, and the people behind The first few seconds were at our destination along the us were supposed to stay in relatively uneventful, but Koboke stretch of the valley sync with us. So, before long, then I felt the raft turn, and surrounding the Yoshino we developed little chants to Sushi yelled, “Right, RIGHT!” River, or literally “small- keep us all paddling at an along with a number of other dangerous to walk along” even rhythm. Forward was directions that I only hazily (1). The “small-dangerous” “stroke, stroke,” at an even comprehended. stretch is so named because, high pitch, backward was did well, it’s a little dangerous, I just gripped the raft as hard someone “back, back,” at a high-low as I could and let my instincts but you probably won’t drown pitch, and gentle was “slow, say if you fall out of your raft. I take over, using my weight to rafting?! slow” in an exaggerated high rafting?! later found out that the Ōboke balance against the pull of pitch. Our little chants started the water. Then I felt the raft Tosa-Iwahara area, literally “big-dangerous catching the attention of to walk along”(1), is so named start to tip back and pivot. other rafters, so to encourage Not good. Sushi continued to because you probably will some friendly competition, drown if you fall out of your shout instructions at us, so I we started calling ourselves switched all of my weight to raft. “Number One Boat,” and the the front, hoping to keep the 48 LIFESTYLE FEBRUARY 2016 LIFESTYLE 49
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