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September 2019
September 2019 edition 161
Stories
from
Kibera
Opulence World
kenya-airways.com
of Arabia Champion
Dubai in An interview
48 hours with Dr KituyiENJOY YOUR FLIGHT / 9
“We offer the best network
for intra-Africa tourism”
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to Take
Home! Dear guests, Now in his second term as Secretary-
General of UNCTAD, Dr Kituyi has
September 2019
World Tourism Day will be marked on been tasked with shaping global trade
September 27, 2019. Tourism remains policy. He sheds more light on what this
September 2019 edition 161
one of the most important economic entails, and lets us in on the challenges
sectors, and with air transport becoming facing the world as we work towards
more affordable, the right to holidays – ensuring that people and the planet
Stories
from
as stipulated in the Universal Declaration co-exist peacefully.
of Human Rights – can be exercised and
Kibera enjoyed by more individuals. Thank you for choosing Kenya Airways,
Photo: Brian Otieno
Kenya Airways contributes to this by I wish you a pleasant flight.
offering competitive prices and a compre-
hensive route network. With our recent Sebastian Mikosz,
Opulence World increase in flight frequency to various Group Managing Director and
kenya-airways.com
of Arabia Champion
destinations, we offer the best network for CEO Kenya Airways
Dubai in An interview
48 hours with Dr Kituyi
intra-Africa tourism and enable simpler
travel to and from Europe, the US, Asia
Pacific, the Middle East and India.
Our travel story this month focusses on
sustainable travel, and in this article you
will get to learn more about several trop-
ical destinations in Africa that provide a
luxurious holiday experience while con-
serving the environment. We also have a
trend story that delves into cage culture,
which is an emerging and innovative fish
➔
farming method that produces high-
quality fish in a sustainable way.
Kenya Airways’ World Another highlight is our interview with
Travel Awards Dr Mukhisa Kituyi, Secretary-General of
• Winner Africa’s Leading Airline: the United Nations Conference on Trade
2016, 2017 and Development (UNCTAD). Dr Kituyi
Image: Jeroen van Loon
• Winner Africa’s Leading Airline, is a champion of multilateralism who
Business Class: 2013, 2014, 2015, contributed greatly to the growth of the
2016, 2017, 2018, 2019 Kenyan and regional economies while
• Winner Africa’s Leading Airline, serving as the Minister of Trade and
Economy Class: 2011, 2018, 2019 Industry in Kenya.CONTENTS / 11
Travel & Nature
14 Head for The Hills
Idanre Hill in Nigeria
22 Travel Essentials
Packing for Dubai
24 The Green Zone
Eco-tourism destinations
48 Magical Malindi
Travel tips
56 Opulence of Arabia
Dubai in 48 hours
44
00 Arts & Culture
17 Habari
Kenya & the world
36 The Glam Squad
Beauty entrepreneurs
42 Book Review
Rituals For Work
62 Kibera Stories
Brian Otieno’s photography
62
Publisher Kenya Airways | Head of Corporate Communications Kent Njuru Corporate Communications Executive Mercy Agnes Mwamba Advertising MediaEdge Interactive Ltd. |
Managing Director Esther Ngomeli Head of Media Rose Kagori Concept, Content & Production Hearst Create | Hearst Netherlands CEO Luc van Os Managing Editor Irene Bauer
Senior Designer Gaby Walther Subeditor Ben Clark Client Partner Inger Waijers Proofreader Julia Gorodecky Photo Editor Monique Kolmeijer Design Concept Sabine Verschueren
Production Manager Hans Koedijker Contributors Mukarram Bakirali, Joost Bastmeijer, Yvette Bax, Jackson Biko, Andrea Dijkstra, Emma van Egmond, Yi-Hwa Hanna, Annemarie Hoeve,
Sioe Sin Khoe, Morris Kiruga, Annette Lavrijsen, Jeroen van Loon, Dewi Leming, Brian Otieno, Gijsje Ribbens, Anthea Rowan, Kristel Steenbergen, Eva de Vries, Chantal van Wessel/Vizualism,
Hanna Wieslander Lithography Ready4Print Printer Walstead CE, Kraków, Poland12 / CONTENTS
Fly Guide
73 Highlights
Inflight entertainment guide
83 Safari Njema
News & service
89 Flying Blue News
91 SkyTeam News
92 Route Maps
97 Cargo
98 Get Comfortable
36
Business 56
34 Aircraft Facts
The Communications Systems
44 Economy of Scales
Innovative fish farming
50 Burundi
At a glance
52 World Champion
Interview with Dr Kituyi
Contact details Kenya Airways Communications & Public Affairs, Nairobi, Kenya, +254 20 642 2000, msafiri@kenya-airways.com Website kenya-airways.com, msafiri-magazine.com
Facebook Kenya Airways Twitter @kenyaAirways Instagram @officialkenyaairways Mediaedge Interactive Ltd. Nairobi, Kenya, +254 20 420 5000 / +254 723 140187 / +254 734 271488,
msafiri@mediaedgeke.com Hearst Magazines Netherlands BV, Moermanskkade 500, 1013 BC Amsterdam, the Netherlands +31 20 5353942, Website hearstcreate.nl.
No part of the contents may be reproduced without prior written permission. While every care is taken to ensure accuracy in preparing the magazine, the publisher and Kenya Airways assume
no responsibility for mistakes and effects arising therefrom. The publisher has made every effort to arrange copyright in according with existing legislation. Msafiri is available on all KQ flights
and at select hotels and businesses in Nairobi. A digital copy is available for free at kenya-airways.com.14 / NATURE / Views
Head for
The Hills
To enjoy the breath-
taking views from the
top of the magnificent
IDANRE HILL, you
have to negotiate 660
steps; so get your
hiking shoes ready.
text Emma van Egmond
ON ENTERING the historical town
of Idanre – known for its cocoa produc-
tion – you will immediately notice the
surrounding inselbergs and spectacular
valleys, which form one of Nigeria’s most
beautiful natural landscapes, and enclose
the town like the walls of a fortress.
According to local lore, the people
of Idanre moved from the valley to the
hilltop for the protection it gave them.
They stayed there for almost a millenni-
um before emigrating downhill in 1923.
Ever since the people left Idanre
Hill, the wonderful fauna – such as the
hyrax (or rock rabbit), which resembles
a large guinea pig – and flora have re-
mained undisturbed. Now, the hilltop,
which is also known as Oke Idanre, is
home to cultural sites such as Owa’s
Palace, Shrines, Old Court and Belfry.
Approximately 900 m above sea
level, Idanre Hill has been on the
UNESCO World Heritage List since
October 2007. Although it’s a hike to
the top, this Nigerian highlight is only a
45-minute drive from Ondo State’s capi-
tal, Akure, so you can easily make it a
day trip.
Kenya Airways Kenya Airways operates
daily flights from Nairobi’s Jomo Kenyatta
International Airport to Murtala Muhammed
International Airport in Lagos, Nigeria.NATURE / 15 August Pixels
HABARI / 17
7th
The central island in the middle
of Lake Turkana consists of three
Habari
active volcanoes and is home to
Angola is Africa’s crocodiles and water turtles.
seventh-largest
country by land area.
Afrofuturism
Mind-Blowing
Fantasy
The self-taught Kenyan
photographer and visual artist
Alloys Iteba loves to create
powerful fantasy art with an
afrofuturistic touch, from space
shuttle war scenes to victorious
couples amid their conquered
enemies. His characters are
dressed in beautifully designed
costumes and are often
covered in stunning body art.
~ Instagram: @chromezalloys18 / HABARI
The benefits of travel are Maputo, the capital of Mozambique,
almost immediate. After was called Lourenço Marques before
a day or two, 89 percent the country gained independence from
of travellers experience
significant drops in stress. Nairobi Portugal in 1976.
Getty Images
Gourmet café Food and art
Honey And Dough The Collective
This café is so new that at the time of writing this they had Where else can you dine
little or no reviews online. Their service is also new, swift and while looking at a collection
firing on all cylinders. The view from Delta Plaza, in Nairo- of eclectic African art?
bi’s Westlands, is wonderful, and is only rivalled by the décor, Nobody goes into the CBD
which has a pink personality. The menu is wide and includes to eat or drink, unless they
healthy options such as gluten-free pancakes and raw ravioli. work or live there. Now
But you can also have burgers, fries, pastas and curries. there’s a reason for all:
the opening of this new
~ Facebook: @HoneyAndDoughKeGourmetCafe restaurant. The Collective
Restaurant and Art Gallery
is owned by a Senegalese lady
who has a passion for food
and gives West African cui-
Day trip sine an international twist.
Lake Nakuru ~ thecollective.co.ke
National Park
Leave Nairobi by 7 a.m., and
three hours later you’ll be in
the land of leopards at Lake
Nakuru National Park, which
is also home to flamingoes,
rhinos, lions, zebras and small
horned animals. There are
vantage points on rocky
escarpments overlooking the
lake and the park, which are
great for breaking bread and
sipping wine.
~ kws.go.ke
“I dwell
Dairy farm
Brown’s
This farm is based in Limuru, on the outskirts of Nairobi. It
produces 17 different types of cheese that have no colourings, on issues
that a lot of
coatings or additives. Brown’s has been at it since 1979. If you
go you will also enjoy the scenery, which consists of lush tea
plantations.
~ brownscheese.com
artists will
choose not to
address”
Nairobi page text: Jackson Biko
Getty Images
– Michael Soi –HABARI / 19
The University of Sankoré The 6,670-km-long Nile River is the
in Timbuktu, Mali is one of longest river in the world. It meanders
the oldest universities in through Tanzania, Uganda, Sudan and
the world. It was founded in
989 AD. What’s On? Egypt, among others.
Shudu
The First Digital Supermodel
With her slender silhouette, flawless skin and breathtaking beauty, Shudu,
the model behind the page @shudu.gram, is being called one of the most
beautiful models on Instagram. With her hyperrealistic features, it took a
long time for followers to realize that Shudu wasn’t real. In fact, she was
created by fashion photographer Cameron-James Wilson as an art project.
Shudu and other digital models are now being used in fashion campaigns,
which is a practice that has sparked criticism in the modelling world.
Stage race
Mountain-Biking Bonanza
During this year’s FNB Wines2Whales race, from
25 October to 3 November, mountain bikers from
South Africa and beyond will experience the
breathtaking terrain of South Africa’s Overberg.
The route includes a mix of farm roads and majes-
tic mountain tracks, ending in the coastal town of
Hermanus.
~ wines2whales.com
Clothing Beauty products
Eclectic Yoga Wear Shea Butter
Ready to show off your dancer’s Magic
pose or downward dog in style?
These bright new yoga leggings by This skincare brand from
controversial Kenyan artist Michael Ghana uses only the purest
Soi are just what you need. ingredients provided by
Mother Nature. Products
~ facebook.com/michaelsoistudio include shea butter and
coconut oil. Oh yes, these
Getty Images
products also look great on
your shelf.
~ hamamat.com
Marathon
Run The City
The 16th edition of the Standard Chartered Nairobi
Marathon will take running enthusiasts through the
“green city in the sun”. The internationally renowned
event attracts more than 20,000 participants from all
walks of life and different parts of the world, and raises
Habari text: Eva de Vries
funds for the local community.
~ nairobimarathon.com20 / HABARI
Uganda’s favourite fast food is The islands of Mafia, Pemba and
the “rolex”, which is an omelet Zanzibar are favourite beach holiday
rolled in a chapati. destinations.
Column
Jackson Biko
Pulp Friction
I live vicariously through bad guys in films. According to that I could feel his pulse and hear his stomach digesting food.
my five-year-old son, Americans prefer to call them “baddies”. And I was disgusted, eventually. First, however, I was surprised.
Out of principle, I refuse to use the language of five-year-olds. And then I was confused, felt violated, and became reflective
Anyway, have you seen the film, Inglourious Basterds? It’s and wondered what would compel anybody to stand so close
directed by Quentin Tarantino, and it stars Brad Pitt who I like to someone without finding it odd. I wondered what kind of
because he’s Brad Pitt and he plays Lieutenant Aldo Raine who household he grew up in. He wasn’t like those perverts you see
fights the Nazis. But, I also really love Colonel Hans Landa – on the Internet harassing people on public transport. This guy
the dark Nazi monster played by Christoph Waltz – because he wasn’t a pervert, he was just gloriously unaware of what per-
comes with immense depth of character even though he directs sonal space was. As I stood in that queue, he made my world
it towards evil. Nonetheless, I like bad guys because they sit in
bars alone and women wonder what they’re thinking. Good
guys are predictable: they always use coasters. Plus, you can
always tell that all they want to do is save the world, which is
predictable. So, I always root for the bad guys. And maybe “He was just gloriously
because of this, I find that I exhaust all my aggression on screen
through these people. The last time I threw a punch was in a unaware of what
personal space was”
Muay Thai class earlier this year, before my back gave way. The
last time I shoved another man in the chest was 15 years ago on
a basketball court. I’ve become soft.
Two weeks ago, on a cold morning, I was in a queue to get
my boarding pass for a flight to Mombasa. Despite the early
hour, I was in a good mood because that’s the mood you should smaller. I reminded myself that Nelson Mandela didn’t stay in
be in when you’re going to the beach. I don’t know which coun- prison for decades for this to happen. That was all the motiva-
try you’re from, but there’s a fear in Kenya that if you don’t tion I needed. I turned to this guy and said, in a tone that actor
stand very close to the person in front of you in a queue, you Samuel L. Jackson uses in the film, Pulp Fiction, “Do you
will develop a rash. So, people will stand so close that you can mind?” I noticed immediately that the man didn’t have any
feel them breathe down your neck. I haven’t experienced it in eyebrows, which made the whole thing weirder.
Europe, the US or the Middle East. But here, in my mother- “What?” he asked.
land, that’s the norm. It’s a national idiosyncrasy. It’s what “Do you mind not standing so close?” I replied.
makes us stand apart from our neighbours (pardon the pun). We stood there with our eyes locked to see who would
It doesn’t matter that we have a bigger economy, are probably blink first. After what seemed like an eternity, he slowly
Illustration: Hannah Wieslander
better educated and more democratic, we still don’t see fit to grunted and took a step backwards. Nelson Mandela would
give the person ahead of us some personal space. And, this have been proud of my resolve. Quentin Tarantino would
chap was no different. He was standing so close to me in that have put me and the man into a strange pawn shop in the
queue – not for a kidney transplant, but for a boarding pass! – backstreets of Los Angeles.HABARI / 21
Nollywood, the Nigerian film Victoria, the capital of the Seychelles,
industry, is estimated to be the is one of the smallest capitals in
second-largest in the world after the world, and it’s easy to explore
India’s Bollywood.
Arts & Culture the entire city on foot.
Books Fashion week
Designer: Deola Sagoe Image: Lagos Fashion Week
African Literature Nigerian Runway
With so many groundbreaking One of the most important fashion events in
African books to choose from, Africa is Lagos Fashion Week, which will
where do you start? Here are five take place from 23 to 26 October. In addition
recommendations. to exciting runway shows, the event offers a
talent-discovery programme, workshops,
masterclasses and fabulous parties.
The Old Drift
This impressive novel by ~ lagosfashionweek.ng
Zambian author Namwali Serpell
follows three very different Leather goods
Handmade with
founding families across three
generations, from Europe to the
Passion
banks of the Zambezi River.
Bird Summons Dokmai Rwanda founder Bernadette
In this beautiful book by Umunyana works with skilled local
Sudanese author Leila Aboulela, artisans and locally sourced materials.
three Muslim women embark on Dokmai produces beautiful, high-quali-
a Scottish pilgrimage. The story ty leather products, such as bags and
combines religious themes and Festival wallets, often with a touch of Kitenge
fabric.
Cape Rock ‘n’ Roll
Celtic myths, confronting faith
and femininity and offering a unique take on the
road trip novel. ~ dokmairwanda.com
Rocking the Daisies is Cape Town’s
largest outdoor gathering and one of the
The Dragonfly Sea highlights of the festival calendar. Taking
Award-winning Kenyan writer place from 4 to 6 October on the stun-
Yvonne Adhiambo Owuor comes ning Cloof Wine Estate, the festival hosts
with this stunning coming-of-age more than 25,000 people, and caters to
novel about a young woman every musical taste, from electronic beats
struggling to find her place in the to underground trailblazers.
world. It’s a poignant exploration
of fate, mortality and loss. ~ rockingthedaisies.com
David Mogo, Godhunter Photo exhibition
Passports
This powerful urban fantasy story,
by Nigerian author Suyi Davies
Okungbowa, is set in the Nigerian
city of Lagos, where “godhunter” First appearing in 2010,
David Mogo has one task: to LagosPhoto Festival – 25
capture two of the most powerful October to 13 November –
gods in the city and deliver them to the wizard has established a community
gangster Lukmon Ajala. for contemporary photogra-
phy that unites local and
international artists. It takes
When The Plums Are Ripe place across the city and
Cameroonian writer Patrice includes activities such as a
Nganang takes us back to the summer school, exhibitions
Second World War, recounting and talk shows. This year’s
how Cameroon was forced into edition delves into the con-
the conflict. The compelling story straints and prospects of
offers detailed insight into life in passports.
Francophone Africa and the lasting impacts of
colonialism. ~ lagosphotofestival.com22 / TRAVEL / Essentials
Dubai is home to Burj Khalifa, the You can buy gold from vending
tallest building in the world (830 m). machines in Dubai.
Packing for Dubai
Hardcover book Architecture
in The Emirates by Philip
Jodidio teaches you all Look like Audrey Hepburn as
about that famous skyline. you hit the Dubai boulevards
Taschen, US$22. in this Jemima beach hat.
Melissa Odabash, US$136.
When in Dubai, one doesn’t
skip a run along the stunning
coast: wear this stainless
steel and silicone digital This dry-shell
watch, 3 Fitness. Suunto, duffle bag has
US$230. enough space to
carry luggage for
a long weekend.
Filson, US$200.
This slim-fit, striped cotton shirt
defies that sizzling hot desert air.
These BeoPlay E6 in-ear wireless Club Monaco, US$80.
earphones are designed for an active
lifestyle. Bang & Olufsen, US$300.
Capture that
sky dive with
this Hero
HD camera.
GoPro,
US$200.
Selection: Gijsje Ribbens
Unisex eau de parfum, Across Sands, Cotton silk scarf to wrap around your
smells like dates and spices from the head while visiting a mosque (or riding in
Far East. Maison Margiela, US$180. a sports car). Arket, US$40.24 / TRAVEL / Eco-tourism
Stocksy
What is eco-tourism?
The International Ecotourism
Society defines eco-tourism as
“responsible travel to natural areas
that conserves the environment,
sustains the well-being of the local
people and involves interpretation
and education”. The money
generated from eco-tourism can be
used to provide local communities
with an additional source of income
to improve their livelihoods and
help preserve the environment. The
eco-tourism industry has grown
rapidly over the last few years, and
it’s now one of the most important
sectors in the international tourism
industry. Africa is at the forefront
of the sustainable-travel trend,
but given the rate at which natural
habitats are being destroyed around
the world, it may soon become the
only way to travel.TRAVEL / 25
Alamy
Morning mist in Nyungwe
Forest National Park
THE
GREEN
ZONE
From luxury lodges made of natural materials
to efforts to save ancient forests, SUSTAINABLE
TRAVEL is on the rise. Here are seven African
destinations where eco-tourism is thriving.
text Eva de Vries26 / TRAVEL / Eco-tourism
Robert Harding
Rwanda
Nyungwe Forest
With its intensive animal conservation efforts, its
increasing number of sustainable lodges and its
ban on plastic bags, Rwanda is one of the green-
est countries on the planet. A percentage of its
tourism revenues even goes to the communities
that surround its national parks. While many
visitors to Rwanda head straight for the famous
Volcanoes National Park to catch sight of the
endangered mountain gorilla, an often-overlooked
gem is the Nyungwe Forest. One of the world’s
most majestic rainforests, Nyungwe covers
approximately 1,000 sq km and is home to 13
species of primates and 300 varieties of birds.
Go off the beaten track for thrilling chimpanzee
trekking, bird-watching trips, waterfall hikes,
tea-plantation visits or a memorable 200-m
canopy walk high above the jungle. All activities
require a local guide. For a luxurious stay, try the
One & Only Nyungwe House, which is in the tea
plantations. If you’re on a budget, the Kitabi
Eco-Center is a good option. It’s located on a
hilltop just outside the park.
oneandonlyresorts.com; kitabiecocenter.com
➔
Kenya Airways operates daily direct flights from
Nairobi to Kigali.
Faustin Tuyambaze, Unsplash
“One of the world’s most majestic
rainforests, Nyungwe covers
approximately 1,000 sq km”TRAVEL / 27
www.instagram.com/sgellman
Senegal
Sine-Saloum Delta
Senegal’s beautiful Sine-Saloum Delta, where the
Saloum River flows into the North Atlantic Ocean,
is truly a sight to behold. It has a rich mangrove
ecosystem that is home to several species of bird
and marine life; it also provides food, clean water
and raw materials to the locals. As a result, the
mangrove forests are being rapidly destroyed by
both humans and climate change. To reduce this
pressure on the delta, conservationists are work-
ing to improve local knowledge and better manage
the mangroves. Eco-tourism supports these
initiatives by raising money for conservation
Alamy
efforts, and by providing an alternative source of
income for the community. To get up close to the
delta, take a boat ride. You can also go fishing,
rent kayaks and sleep under the stars on one of
the beautiful islands. Sangomar Kayak offers
tours as well as overnight camping trips, and even
hyena-watching. For eco-friendly lodgings, discover
the lodge Les Collines de Niassam, where you can
stay in charming huts or a treehouse.
sangomarkayak.com; niassam.com
➔
Kenya Airways operates daily direct flights from
Nairobi to Dakar.28 / TRAVEL / Eco-tourism
LonnoLodge.com
Kenya “Tourism is the region’s main source of
Watamu income and much of the profits are being used
to preserve this precious area”
With its white sandy beaches, crystal-clear
turquoise waters, coral gardens and vast array
of wildlife, Watamu Marine National Park &
Reserve has it all. But the park is facing some
major ecological challenges. Its coast is being
rapidly altered as
a result of climate change, pollution and unsus-
tainable practices. Tourism is the region’s main
source of income and much of the profits are
being used to preserve this precious area.
Instrumental in this preservation is the Watamu
Marine Association, which organises educational
mangrove boardwalks, bird-watching trips and
snorkelling, as well as visits to the community
recycling centre to learn about biogas produc-
tion and permaculture. The Local Ocean
Conservation organisation, with its mission to
protect sea turtles, invites visitors to participate
in their important work via their hands-on Eco
Visitor programme. Beautiful Watamu offers
several eco-friendly places to stay, such as the
magical Watamu Treehouse and the tranquil
Charming Lonno Lodge.
LonnoLodge.com
➔
Book your flight to Nairobi on kenya-airways.com.TRAVEL / 29
Zimbabwe & Zambia
Victoria Falls
One of Africa’s most striking sights, Victoria
Falls is known locally as Mosi-oa-Tunya (“the
smoke that thunders”). The roar from the
world’s largest single curtain of falling water
can be heard from 40 km away. Adrenaline
junkies come for the whitewater rafting,
ziplines, helicopter tours and bungee jumping.
Conservationists are concerned, though, about
noise pollution, littering and illicit tour activi-
ties, which are a threat to the falls’ ecosystem.
Fortunately, sustainable tourism is on the rise,
offering accommodation and activities for
guests who are eager to experience the natural
thrills of the falls in a responsible way. Serious
eco-tourists can even take a tour with the
Victoria Falls Anti-Poaching Unit to learn
about the conservation of local wildlife and its
natural resources. For places to stay, Munga
Eco-Lodge in Zambia is an oasis of tranquillity,
well located for exploring the Victoria Falls
area. A more opulent option is the Tongabezi
Lodge, a hideaway on the banks of the
Zambezi River.
mungaecolodge.com; tongabezi.com
➔
Kenya Airways flies from Nairobi to
Livingstone, Zambia.
Getty Images30 / TRAVEL / Eco-tourism
Kenya
Maasai Mara
Every year, thousands of tourists descend on
the Maasai Mara National Reserve, which
borders the Serengeti in Tanzania, to witness
the Great Migration. However, the park is
becoming a victim of its own success: the
growing numbers of visitors pose an imminent
environmental threat. One way we can reduce
our impact is to choose alternative lodging
outside the park’s boundaries. Consider camp-
ing at Loita Hills, where giraffes, zebras and
even lions are often spotted, and where the
indigenous Maasai live in harmony with their
cattle, nature and wildlife. Sankale Ole Ntutu,
the Maasai community chief of Maji Moto
village, is a passionate guide. He’s also the
manager of the Loita Hills Basecamp, which
offers a wide variety of nature activities, such
as animal tracking, medicinal plant workshops,
beading classes, mountain-bike rides, walking
safaris and bush expeditions. Part of the
profits go directly to the community that makes
the camp and its activities possible.
loitahillsbasecamp.com
➔
Book your flight to Nairobi on kenya-airways.com.
Eva de VriesTRAVEL / 31
32 / TRAVEL / Eco-tourism
Robert Harding
South Africa
“”Odis volori cum re et alicide
naturi qui officillit aborios si Cederberg
voloria nonest aut enimporibus
adis repro oditin rem rerovidere,
Mountains
This wonderfully rugged mountain range – 200 km
north of Cape Town – is known for its gorgeous land-
scapes, streams, waterfalls and well-preserved rock
art. Bushmans Kloof, an ecological retreat surrounded
by sandstone formations and ancient bush art sites
dating back 10,000 years, is an excellent basecamp if
you want to explore the Cederberg Mountains. It’s
committed to conservation and social responsibility;
some of lodge’s initiatives include protecting the rare
Cape Leopard, safeguarding a herd of Cape Mountain
Zebras and working to preserve the area’s original
inhabitants’ cave paintings. Some of the area’s most
popular activities are hiking and rock climbing, and
wildlife lovers can take a guided tour to spot rare bird
species, snakes and other animals. Bushmans Kloof
offers a luxurious experience, but if you’re looking for
something more budget-friendly, you can camp under
the stars or sleep in one of the cabins at Gecko Creek.
Just remember to bring your own torch.
bushmanskloof.co.za, geckocreek.com
bushmanskloof.co.za
➔
Kenya Airways flies daily from Nairobi to Cape Town.TRAVEL / 33
Tanzania
Alamy
Chumbe Island
Chumbe Island Coral Park, a pristine coral
island located off the coast of Zanzibar, is the
first privately established marine park in the
world. The project consists of a fully protected
coral reef sanctuary, a forest reserve for rare
wildlife, an education centre and a small
eco-lodge. The profits from eco-tourism help
to finance research, environmental education
programmes for local schools and other
benefits for the surrounding community. But
doing good doesn’t have to exclude feeling
good. Island life at Chumbe means you can
relax in a hammock, watch the sunset, take a
boat trip, walk the nature trails, spot endan-
gered animals and snorkel in the island’s
shallow waters. For accommodation, the
island’s small eco-lodge consists of seven
striking, palm-thatched bungalows made
entirely of local materials. They all feature
solar powered lights and showers, rainwater
catchment and compost toilets. All bungalows
overlook the sea and offer direct access to
the warm blue ocean.
chumbeisland.com
➔
Kenya Airways flies daily from
Nairobi to Zanzibar.
Getty Images34 / TRAVEL / Facts
English has been The ICAO phonetic alphabet
used for international assigns each letter a unique name
The Communications Systems
aviation communi- to avoid any ambiguity in aviation
cation since 1951. communication.
The VHF radios and HF radios
are interfaced and tuned via two
Multi-Function Control Display
Units at the forward section of the
centre pedestal. They’re selected
via the Audio Control Panels: two
on the centre pedestal and one
on the observer panel towards
the rear of the flight deck.
On the Embraer E190, the text-
based ACARS communication is
facilitated by VHF digital radio 3.
This is only possible when VHF
3 is in data mode, rather than
voice mode.
During day-to-day flight operations, there’s a lot of Ground stations will normally do this using the Selective
communication involving pilots, controllers and the Calling System (SELCAL), which even works when an
airline’s operations control. This communication is aircraft’s radios are muted. SELCAL uses a ground-
mainly facilitated by on-board radios that are used to based encoder and radio transmitter to broadcast any
transmit both voice and data messages. one of four unique audio tones, which are picked up by
“As an example, the Embraer E190 aircraft comes a decoder and radio receiver in the aircraft.”
equipped with three Very High Frequency (VHF) radios Pilots can also receive and send text-based messages
The use of an on-board
text: Annette Lavrijsen image: Haig Anyonyi
and two High Frequency (HF) radios,” says First Officer through the Aircraft Communication Addressing and
Michael Chege. “VHF radios are the preferred mode Reporting System (ACARS). “ACARS is used to relay satellite telephone is kept to
of voice communication due to the high quality of text-based communications, such as fuel information a minimum due to the high
voice transmission. However, their limited range – and Regulated Take Off Weight (RTOW). It’s also used costs associated with it:
approximately 200 nautical miles [370 km] – makes by the flight crew to share information to the Load US$15 for a three-minute call.
communication in remote areas difficult. This is where Control office that helps calculate the final load sheet,
the HF radios step in: with their long-range capability, and to relay flight following details to the airline’s
these radios are ideal over vast, uninhabited land Operations Control Centre (OCC). The OCC, on their
masses and long oceanic routes, where transmission part, will relay information such as weather conditions
repeater stations are few and far between. As HF en route and at the final destination, and possible
radios are noisy, they’re only used when requested. alternate airports.”36 / PEOPLE / Beauty entrepreneurs
The Glam
Squad
Leaders in various BEAUTY disciplines,
these African women are role models for
young people who aspire to work in the
beauty industry.
text Anthea Rowan
Wardrobe stylist & LAËTITIA KANDOLO was already on her
creative director way to a stunning career in her late teens. She
earned a place at the prestigious Ecole Supérieure
Laëtitia
des Arts et Techniques de la Mode, and having
been part of a Black Eyed Peas’ tour working with
chart-topping Fergie, she was gaining a reputation
Kandolo
as a talented stylist. Kandolo has since worked with
some of the biggest artists in the music business,
including Rihanna, Jay-Z, Madonna and Beyoncé.
Born and raised in Paris, she began her journey
as a freelancer while she was still a student. Today,
Age she travels regularly between Paris and Kinshasa.
27 Forging strong ties with her African heritage has
always been important. “Africa wasn’t part of my
Heritage school history programme, so I had to learn the
Congolese history of my roots by myself, watching documen-
taries, films, listening to music, through books,
Born travelling, exhibitions...and talking to people,” said
France Kandolo in an interview with Vogue Italia.
In 2015, she launched her own womenswear
Career Highlights clothing line, UCHAWI, in Democratic Republic of
Worked with Kanye West for three years the Congo. “My brand is mostly about mood,” she
says. “Each collection is a part of me. I’m old-fash-
Driving Force ioned: I love manuscripts and writing ideas down,
Highlighting the made-in-Africa label so I always have a notebook with me” She gets her
inspiration everywhere: on the street, in architec-
ture, from films, photography, music and travelling.
Kandolo met success very early in her life, but
she urges young designers not to rush and be ready
to work hard because it’s a journey that will require
a lot of sacrifices. “Always live the life you want to,
don’t compare your life to others; everybody has
different timing.”PEOPLE / 37 “Always live the life you want to, don’t compare your life to others; everybody has different timing”
38 / PEOPLE / Beauty entrepreneurs
Hairstylist & owner of
Hair Lounge
Charlotte
Mensah
Age
49
Heritage
Ghanaian
Born
Britain
Career Highlights
Three-time winner of the Afro Hairdresser of the Year
Award at the British Hairdressing Awards; first black
woman to enter the organisation’s Hall of Fame
Driving Force
Natural beauty and real people
“There’s work to be done in uplifting and providing skills
to young women in Ghana”
CHARLOTTE MENSAH, who’s one of Britain’s top hair- head massage,” says Mensah. “I enquired about the oils used,
stylists, got into the business because of a pivotal moment in and from there a partnership was born.” Her products aim to
her life. Following the passing of her mother when she was meet the wishes of clients from Africa, Europe and Asia, who
barley a teenager, hairstyling became the mode of bonding want products that hydrate their hair, moisturise it without
between Mensah and her younger sister. “I’d do her hair every leaving it greasy, are beautifully packaged and smell nice.
Sunday, and it was always a spiritual experience: we’d cry, we’d Mensah now offers technical workshops for hair profession-
laugh and we’d talk,” she says. The rest, as they say, is history. als in Ghana, and she’s heavily invested in her charity, Ladies of
Mensah established top London salon, Hair Lounge, 20 Visionary Empowerment. “There’s work to be done in uplifting
years ago with funding from The Prince’s Trust. Her clients and providing skills to young women in Ghana,” she says.
include famous people such as novelist Chimamanda Ngozi According to Mensah, the authentic look is becoming an
Adichie. The success of the salon inspired Mensah to launch increasingly popular trend. “I think there’s an embracing of
the Charlotte Mensah Manketti Oil product range, a series of natural hair. I was in New York recently, and I loved all the
hair products that is now stocked by global giants Space NK natural hairstyles I saw. I think there’s a trend of people feel-
and Net-a-Porter. She discovered the raw materials for these ing empowered to be themselves; I encourage people to bring
products while she was in the Serengeti. “I decided to get a their authentic selves wherever they go.”PEOPLE / 39
Owner of hair- and skincare
brand, African Naturals
Zodidi
Gaseb
Age
36
Heritage
Namibian
Born
Namibia
Career Highlights
TEDx Talk “I am not your stereotype. I am not my
hair”, which was chosen as one of 15 TEDx Talks to
celebrate TEDx reaching one billion views
Driving Force
Debunking stereotypes on natural hair, encouraging
self-acceptance and sharing African views
Sigikolbe.com
“I didn’t dream big enough, and I was too comfortable
supplying just locally”
ZODIDI GASEB is all about promoting natural hair and powder bought from local women’s cooperatives in Namibia,
natural beauty. She’s so passionate about a natural look that and high-quality raw shea butter from Ghana.
she has developed a brand to celebrate African beauty and Gaseb’s brand, African Naturals, is an ethnic hair- and
natural products. Her daughter was the catalyst to starting her skincare line and an initiative dedicated to the cultural
business. In 2014, she wanted to “relax” her hair, by applying preservation of the African aesthetic. “I didn’t dream big
chemical straighteners to it. It forced Gaseb to rethink her enough, and I was too comfortable supplying just locally,”
own hair and the impacts of Western beauty ideals on African she says. “But, after participating in the Intra-Africa Trade
women. She decided to grow out her natural hair after she Fair in 2018, I realised that I could definitely grow beyond
realised that her daughter perceived her long extensions as the the African borders. I would love to see my products along-
standard of beauty. side American and European brands in major retailers, to be
Then, in a bid to retain natural, healthy hair, Gaseb began used in local and international salons.”
to experiment with natural products sourced locally and mixed Gaseb hasn’t been to Kenya but would love to visit to see
with ingredients from other African countries. Passionate what raw materials she could source, and what collaborative
about the healing and restorative powers of natural products partnerships she could develop.
and essential oils, she uses ximenia, marula oil and moringa40 / PEOPLE / Beauty entrepreneurs
Fashion model, Lemlem &
Lemlem Foundation founder
Liya
Kebede
Age
41
Heritage
Ethiopian
Born
Ethiopia
Career Highlights
One of Time magazine’s 100 Most Influential
People in 2010; one of Glamour magazine’s Women
of the Year in 2013; and created one of the first
sustainable fashion labels to manufacture in Africa.
Driving Force
Promoting Africa as a source of high-end artisanal
work, while supporting maternal health and women’s
empowerment programmes.
Silja Magg
“I felt inspired to launch the brand after one of my visits back
to Ethiopia, when I met a group of traditional weavers”
SPOTTED WHILE she was still at school in Addis Ababa, produce a collection made in Kenya, and we’re always look-
Liya Kebede was introduced to a modelling agency in Paris ing to expand our production across the continent with new
and cemented her career a few years later in the US. In 2007, opportunities.”
Forbes magazine identified her as one of the top-earning Kebede always knew that she wanted to focus on giving
models in the world. Kebede has since appeared on the cover back and taking sustainable action to help women in Africa.
of several editions of Vogue magazine, is a spokesmodel for She served as Goodwill Ambassador with the World Health
L’Oreal Paris, has been the Face of Estée Lauder and starred Organization – from 2005-2011 – and, in 2006, she launched
with Jake Gyllenhaal in a Calvin Klein advert; but she’s much the Lemlem Foundation to help women in Africa access
more than just a pretty face. critical health services during pregnancy and childbirth.
In 2007, Kebede launched clothing brand Lemlem, which In 2018, the Lemlem Foundation expanded its collection
means “to bloom and flourish” in Amharic. “I felt inspired of programmes to support job training and empowerment
to launch the brand after one of my visits back to Ethiopia, activities, so that more women in artisan communities can
when I met a group of traditional weavers who no longer build successful livelihoods. “At Lemlem, we’re pushing the
had a market for their craft,” she says. “The core collection needle so that more young women have a good future as
is handwoven from natural cotton in Ethiopia, but we also artisans.”PEOPLE / 41
Beauty entrepreneur
Suzie
Wokabi
Age
42
Heritage
Kenyan
Born
Nairobi
Career Highlights
Msafiri Business Award for Health & Beauty (2013);
nominated for Africa’s Most Influential Women in
Business in East Africa (2019)
Driving Force
Designing makeup products that work
for African women
“I found a gap in the retail cosmetics market: whatever was
available was imported and hugely overpriced”
HAVING LIVED in the US for 10 years, Suzie Wokabi remover, cleanser, toner, moisturiser and primer as well as
returned to Kenya in 2007 to work in the media makeup indus- application brushes.
try. She discovered that beauty products for African women Called “the face of African beauty” by CNN and described
were lacking. “I found a gap in the retail cosmetics market: by Forbes magazine as “one of Kenya’s most exceptional female
whatever was available was imported and hugely overpriced,” entrepreneurs”, Wokabi believes in growing a brand gradually,
she says. She decided to create SuzieBeauty, her own, affordable and not overstretching.
range of products for the African woman. She’s always working on new products, and she becomes
“I cofounded the brand with my husband in 2009, and inspired when she travels and witnesses new trends. But mak-
launched it onto the Kenyan market three years later,” says ing products relevant to African women remains her mandate.
Wokabi, whose early career included stints for cosmetics giants “I have to localise the trends so that they work for us,” says
Clinique and MAC. “We started from scratch with a lot of love Wokabi. This year, she aims to launch five new products.
and passion for beauty, and for Africa.” SuzieBeauty offers a Wokabi has a clear message to aspiring young entrepre-
full range of colour cosmetics: foundation, powder, concealer, neurs: “Be sure that you love everything about what you do.
eye shadows, eye kohl, mascara and blusher. In 2018, Wokabi It’s not easy to break into this industry, or be successful in it,
launched the company’s skincare line, which includes makeup and the success stories out there all rely on passion.”42 / BUSINESS / Book review
“Rituals are
about creating
Rituals For Work:
50 Ways to Create
Engagement, Shared
meaning”
Purpose And A
Culture That Can
Adapt To Change
Authors
Kursat Ozenc and Margaret Hagan
Rituals can add meaning and focus to
Publisher
Wiley daily routines. Rituals For Work gives
Bio
them a modern twist to boost professional
Kursat Ozenc, PhD, is performance and culture. Here’s our pick
Strategic Design Consultant at SAP
AppHaus in Silicon Valley. Margaret
of the best excerpts from the book.
Hagan, PhD, is Director of the Legal
Design Lab at Stanford Law School.
Both authors teach at the Stanford
d.school.
Airplane Mode Afternoon The Failure Wake Party
Pages Need to get stuff done? This ritual is This one’s designed to show staff that
272 all about creating a “distraction-free it’s okay to fail. “It should encourage
zone”. How? “Everyone is a passenger the team to take risks and to have
Summary on a fictional plane ride together.” closure.” Think of it as a funeral wake.
Athletes such as tennis champion Passengers can choose the day’s “A team leader should prepare remarks
Rafael Nadal are already familiar “destination” and focus on that for like a eulogy, recognising the life cycle
with the power of rituals to boost the session, with a temporary block of the project and expressing apprecia-
performance. So why not harness on web browsing, notifications and tion for everyone’s hard work.”
rituals in the workplace? The authors social media. Make it extra-realistic A pharmaceutical firm uses this ritual
draw on empirical research and by adding, “White noise to mimic the to keep employees, “Motivated in an
rich examples from the industry to airplane feel.” environment where a high-percentage
illustrate how rituals can transform of failure is normal.”
our business lives. Three-Second Share Day
This ritual helps teams to connect at
a personal level across different loca- About the book
tions. Team members are paired up An accessible guide packed
to record and share a series of three- with fun, inspiring and practical
second clips of their life on a set day “rituals” to help teams,
with their phone camera. The partner managers and individuals in
Text: Annemarie Hoeve
does the same. “They can also share all areas at work, including
their video story with the whole team productivity, creativity and
at meetings, so everyone can see what dealing with conflict.
their day looks like.”44 / TREND / E-commerce
Economy
of Scales
Innovative FISH FARMING solutions are
needed to meet the rising appetite for nutritious
fish in Sub-Saharan Africa. A new sustainable
technique, which is gaining popularity at the
great lakes, might be the answer.
text Andrea Dijkstra
IN THE green, hilly bay near Roo village in western Kenya, Trivia about tilapia
hundreds of vast square cages float in Lake Victoria. Attached •Tilapia is one of the most exploited
to these metal constructions are giant closed nets, each holding inland water fish species in tropical-
5,000 fish fingerlings. These are the fish cages of Victory Farms, to-sub-tropical ecosystems of Sub-
founded by Joseph Rehmann and Steve Moran in 2016. Saharan Africa
Due to overfishing, wild fish stocks have plummeted in •Tilapia is a traditional and favourite
Sub-Saharan Africa’s great lakes. In Lake Victoria, wild fish dish in almost all countries in Sub-
catches have reduced by over 50 percent in the past 2 decades. Saharan Africa. Some even call it
Meanwhile, consumer demand has risen, meaning that locally a “democratic fish” in the sense
caught fish (140,000 tonnes) no longer meets the national year- that the fish is consumed as an
ly demand (500,000 tonnes). In response, Kenya now imports affordable source of protein in poor
US$7 million of tilapia per year from Asia. For firms like rural communities, while also being
Victory Farms, this demand-supply gap is a great opportunity. a premium product for the affluent
Instead of digging fishponds in the ground, which is a in urban centres
more common model of fish farming in Kenya, Victory Farms •Nearly all tilapia produced in Sub-
ventured into cage fish farming, which is also known as cage Saharan Africa is consumed locally,
culture. “You can produce significantly larger fish quantities with very limited exports to overseas
with cage fish farming than with pond fishing,” says Rehmann. markets
“For the amount of fish that you can breed in just one 36-sq-m •Notable countries with a strong
cage, you would need over one hectare of pond fishing area.” demand for tilapia include
Victory Farms is scaling up quickly. The firm put its first Democratic Republic of the Congo,
fish into the water in June 2016, and it already produces 250 Ghana, Malawi, Nigeria, Uganda and
tonnes of fish per month, which translates to 500,000 meals in Zambia
Kenya’s lowest income markets. Rehmann plans to grow his •Retail prices for a kilo of frozen
production from 1,000 tonnes last year to 4,000 tonnes this whole-gutted tilapia can range from
year and currently employs 250 people on a permanent basis US$2.50 (in Zambia) to as high at
and another 150 flexible employees. US$13 in markets such as in Angola
Because of its huge yields, cage culture is gaining popular-
ity in several other countries in Sub-Saharan Africa, including
Ghana, Uganda, Malawi, South Africa, Zambia and >TREND / 45
“Cage fish farming
makes locally produced
fish protein available at
an affordable price”
Jeroen van Loon46 / TREND / E-commerce
Jeroen van Loon
Zimbabwe. In Zambia, for example, Yalelo has 75 cages in Lake
Kariba that are each the size of a large public swimming pool.
The company employs over 650 people, sold 9,000 tonnes of
tilapia last year and plans to sell 15,500 tonnes this year, which
“Responsible aquaculture
makes it the largest aquaculture production business in Africa. can be one of the most
“Responsible aquaculture can be one of the most environ-
mentally sustainable forms of meat production, and it’s the environmentally sustainable
only realistic solution to meet the demand for fish in growing
African economies,” says Adam Taylor, CEO of FirstWave
forms of meat production”
Group (Yalelo’s parent company). “For each kilo of meat, fish
eat one quarter less feed than poultry and produce half as
much carbon dioxide. Compared to beef, fish need only 20
percent of the feed and produce 95 percent less carbon diox-
ide. This makes fish more affordable and more sustainable.”
Cage culture farmers are also assured of a growing
demand for fish in Africa, which is driven by population and The largest cage culture
income growth, and an increasing appreciation of health players in Sub-Saharan Africa
benefits of fish consumption. Fish is a good source of protein, - in terms of sales per month -
which helps to maintain muscle; a rich source of vitamins and
minerals (vitamin B12, vitamin D, iodine and zinc) that are • YALELO (Zambia): 1,100 tonnes
necessary to maintain healthy skin, hair and nails; and it • LAKE HARVEST (Zimbabwe, Zambia & Uganda):
contains lots of omega-3 fatty acids, which are essential for 550 tonnes in total
the development of the brain and eyes. • TROPO FARMS (Ghana): 550 tonnes
• VICTORY FARMS (Kenya): 250 tonnes
TOO GOOD TO BE TRUE? • IG INVEST (Uganda): 200 tonnes
Despite all of this, cage culture isn’t the silver bullet that • TRITON AQUACULTURE (Ghana): 150 tonnes
some imagine it to be. Starting a company comes with numer-
ous challenges. For instance, it’s capital-intensive because cages,
fish fingerlings and fish feed need to be procured upfront; the
last being expensive in most African countries due to a lack of
local millers producing high-quality and affordable fish feed.
Furthermore, some experts are critical of cage culture becauseTREND / 47
some companies can chase greater income at the expense of a
more sustainable approach. Overcrowded cages, for example,
can lead to high mortality rates, disease, and parasite infesta-
tions. And contaminants from aqua farms, such as fish excre-
ment; uneaten, chemical-laden food; and swarms of parasites 8.9
might spread to the surrounding water.
To avoid these problems, Rehmann located his farm in a The average annual per capita fish
deep part of Lake Victoria with enough volume to absorb the
fish faeces, and with strong enough currents to flush fresh consumption in Sub-Saharan Africa is 8.9 kg,
water through the cages, maintaining a healthy environment
for the fish. He makes sure not to put too many fish in one compared to a world average of 18.9 kg
cage and adheres to the lake’s ecosystem by producing Nile
tilapia, which was already introduced in Lake Victoria in the
1950s. “As we use high-quality feed and environmental best
practices, we’re actually seeing an increase in wild fish nearby 21
and a species of endangered tilapia is being successfully rein-
troduced in the waters around our farm,” adds Rehmann. Sub-Saharan Africa experienced an
Government recognition is usually a good barometer of
the feasibility of new methods, and cage culture is already average annual growth rate in aquaculture
attracting such attention. Having launched numerous policies
in favour of the emerging cage culture sector, African govern- production of 21% during the last decade
ments are now recognising cage culture’s potential. In Kenya,
for example, the local government has invested US$10,000 in a
cage culture project at Chinga Dam. In Ghana, the govern-
ment hands out grants to local people to start cage farms. As 25-50
a result, around six commercial companies and dozens of
individual entrepreneurs are now using this farming method at Most countries in Sub-Saharan Africa
Ghana’s Lake Volta, the largest artificial reservoir in the
world. And the cage system now accounts for 97 percent of experienced a growth in fish consumption
the total fish production in Ghana.
from around 25–50% between 2007 and 2015
THINK GLOBALLY, ACT LOCALLY
Although the cage culture industry in Kenya is still nascent,
several successful local players have already emerged, such as
Lake View Fisheries (just off Mfangano Island), which Dr 84
Gilbert Mbeo and his sister Michelle founded. “We grew up
surrounded by a thriving capture fishery, but due to overfishing, Aquaculture production in Sub-Saharan
Lake Victoria became less productive, factories closed, people
lost their jobs and malnutrition and poverty became rife,” says Africa in 2025 is projected to be one million
Dr Mbeo. Nowadays, Lake View Fisheries produces 200 tonnes
of fish annually and plans to scale up its operations, employing tonnes, an increase of 84%
hundreds of Kenyans and making thousands of tonnes of
locally produced fish protein available to all Kenyans at an
affordable price.
Taylor – of FirstWave Group – solved the shortage of
affordable, high-quality fish feed by constructing (in partner-
ship with Danish fish feed company Aller Aqua) Sub-Saharan
Africa’s largest fish feed factory in Zambia. “As fish feed rep-
resents over 50 percent of the costs of operating a fish farm,
it’s very important to have a reliable source of high-quality
affordable fish feed,” says Taylor, who also exports the feed to
Kenya and Uganda, and recently opened his first depot in
Kampala. Yalelo, which sells 70 percent of its fish through 50
Yalelo retail shops throughout Zambia, recently started to ex-
port fish to Democratic Republic of the Congo and intends to
export to several other African countries before the year’s end.
According to Taylor, producing fish locally has countless
benefits above not importing fish from Asia, such as job
creation in low-income areas, a reduction of the carbon foot-
print, verifiable quality standards, economic improvement and
improved food security. Rehmann is also optimistic about cage
culture in Sub-Saharan Africa, and he predicts a bright future
for the industry. “We can bring thousands of people into this
industry,” he says. “Cage fish farming could create food self-
Jeroen van Loon
sufficiency for Kenya and Uganda in the foreseeable future;
this is how we are going to feed the people.”48 / TRAVEL / Tips
A historical mystery
Very close to Malindi, buried
deep in a lush forest, are the
Gedi Ruins: impressive remains
of a 13th-century Swahili village.
Traders, sailors and settlers from
Oman lived here until the 16th
century, when a big evacuation
occurred. Theories about what
happened range from a sudden
attack to a plague. You can
wander around the beautiful
palace, grand mosque and stone
houses.
Blue lagoon
Featuring green sea turtles,
shorebirds, powder-blue fish,
fringing reef and seagrass
beds, stunning nature is well-
presented in Malindi Marine
National Park & Reserve, the
oldest marine park in Kenya.
You can enjoy glass-bottom-boat
rides, swimming, windsurfing,
snorkelling, camping and
relaxing beach walks. If you’re
lucky, you might spot whale- and
shortfin mako sharks.
Natural wonder
A pleasant one-hour drive
over bands of white rock and
red chalky soil will get you
from Malindi to the Marafa
Depression, which is also known
as Hell’s Kitchen. This eroded
sandstone gorge on Kenya’s
coast consists of red cliffs
with layers of white, pink and
orange. It makes you feel like
you’re on Mars, especially during
sunset when the colours of this
incredible site are breathtaking.
Art in the tropics
Malindi has a lot to offer in the
Magical Malindi
field of art, and African art expert
Carola Rasmussen’s fascinating
Ndoro Sculpture Garden is one of
the highlights. At this permanent
outdoor exhibition, you can
admire all kinds of tropical
Situated on Kenya’s idyllic Indian Ocean
Text: Emma van Egmond Image: Alamy
plants and about 300 stone
sculptures. From rough stone
coast, the tropical town of Malindi offers to perfectly polished, you’ll find
a wonderful mix of old and new. Make wildlife sculptures that range from
elephants to birds of prey. Ndoro
the most of a trip here with these tips. Sculpture Garden brings out the
special expressions of African
symbolic and figurative art.You can also read
