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FREE to Take Home! November 2019 November 2019 edition 163 Just Dance! In High Coastal kenya-airways.com Spirits Escape Festive season Beyond Dakar’s in London busy streets
ENJOY YOUR FLIGHT / 7 “Enjoy the holiday period at some of the most iconic winter wonderlands” FREE to Take Home! Dear guests, chimpanzee conservation. In 1966, a group of chimpanzees from European November 2019 At this time of the year, many of us zoos were resettled on Rubondo Island look forward to celebrating the festive in Lake Victoria. Today, the colony is November 2019 edition 163 season with our loved ones at home or flourishing with chimpanzees and many at holiday destinations across the globe. other animals – such as rhinos – and is Now that Kenya Airways has expanded open to visitors. Our wildlife conserva- Just with direct flights to several key destina- tion story reveals the fascinating details Dance! tions worldwide, you can enjoy the of this modern-day Noah’s Ark. holiday period at some of the most iconic city winter wonderlands, such Thank you for choosing Kenya Airways, Photo: Trunk Archive as New York, Geneva and London. I wish you an enjoyable flight, Our intercontinental travel story this In High Coastal month takes you to the latter. England’s Sebastian Mikosz kenya-airways.com Spirits Escape Festive season in London Beyond Dakar’s busy streets capital comes alive during the festive Group Managing Director and CEO season, which is marked by spectacular Kenya Airways Christmas lights, atmospheric walks through frost-covered parks and uniquely British rituals. Experience all of this as you discover the best shopping areas, restaurants and events with our guide to London during yuletide. Much has been said about the consump- tion of cow’s milk. Unsustainable production practices and health-related concerns have encouraged some people to look for alternatives, and a growing number of consumers worldwide are now turning to camel milk because of its ➔ nutritional benefits. In Africa, business is booming as more and more entrepre- Kenya Airways’ World neurs enter the market. Read all about Travel Awards the African camel milk industry in our • Winner Africa’s Leading Airline: trend story. 2016, 2017 At Kenya Airways, wildlife conservation Image: Jeroen van Loon • Winner Africa’s Leading Airline, is a primary concern, and for this reason, Business Class: 2013, 2014, 2015, we work with USAID and other partners 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019 to prevent the trafficking of endangered • Winner Africa’s Leading Airline, species. So, this month, it gives us great Economy Class: 2011, 2018, 2019 pleasure to tell you a positive story about
CONTENTS / 9 Travel & Nature 12 Tree of Life Avenue of the Baobabs 20 Travel Essentials Packing for London 22 Coastal Escape Dakar in Senegal 45 Urban Getaway Travel tips 52 The Most Magical Time Festive season in London 22 58 Arts & Culture 15 Habari Kenya & the world 32 Movers And Shakers Leading dancers 44 Book Review Strategic Doing 58 Into The Wild Chimpanzee conservation Publisher Kenya Airways | Director of Communications and Public Affairs Dennis Kashero Head of Content Development Rehema Kahurananga Corporate Communications Executive Mercy Agnes Mwamba Advertising MediaEdge Interactive Ltd. | Managing Director Esther Ngomeli Head of Media Rose Kagori Concept, Content & Production Hearst Create | CEO Hearst Netherlands Luc van Os | Director Hearst Create Lieneke van den Heuvel | Content Director Irene Bauer Senior Designer Gaby Walther Subeditor Ben Clark Client Service Director Erik-Jan Sanders Proofreader Julia Gorodecky Photo Editor Monique Kolmeijer Design Concept Sabine Verschueren Production Manager Hans Koedijker Contributors Connie Aluoch, Joost Bastmeijer, Yvette Bax, Jackson Biko, Mirjam Bleeker, Julia Buckley, Matteo Colombo, Andrea Dijkstra, Eromo Egbejule, Emma van Egmond, Jacqueline de Haas, Annemarie Hoeve, Sioe Sin Khoe, Annette Lavrijsen, Dana van Leeuwen, Jeroen van Loon, Victor Murithiw, Belange Okandju, Kim Paffen, Gijsje Ribbens, Anthea Rowan, Kristel Steenbergen, Nigel Tisdall, George Turner, Eva de Vries, Chantal van Wessel/Vizualism, Hanna Wieslander Lithography Ready4Print Printer Walstead CE, Kraków, Poland
10 / CONTENTS Fly Guide 65 Highlights Inflight entertainment guide 75 Safari Njema News & service 81 Flying Blue News 83 SkyTeam News 84 Route Maps 89 Cargo 90 Get Comfortable 52 Business 32 38 Aircraft Facts Loading and offloading 40 White Gold The camel milk industry 46 Uganda At a glance 48 Rethinking Plastic Waste solutions Contact details Kenya Airways Communications & Public Affairs, Nairobi, Kenya, +254 20 642 2000, msafiri@kenya-airways.com Website kenya-airways.com, msafiri-magazine.com Facebook Kenya Airways Twitter @KenyaAirways Instagram @officialkenyaairways Mediaedge Interactive Ltd. Nairobi, Kenya, +254 20 420 5000 / +254 723 140187 / +254 734 271488, msafiri@mediaedgeke.com Hearst Magazines Netherlands BV, Moermanskkade 500, 1013 BC Amsterdam, the Netherlands +31 20 5353942, Website hearstcreate.nl. No part of the contents may be reproduced without prior written permission. While every care is taken to ensure accuracy in preparing the magazine, Hearst and Kenya Airways assume no responsibility for mistakes and effects arising therefrom. The publisher has made every effort to arrange copyright in according with existing legislation. Msafiri is available on all KQ flights and at select hotels and businesses in Nairobi. A digital copy is available for free at kenya-airways.com.
12 / NATURE / Views Tree of Life What was once a tropical forest is now a long avenue, flanked by a line of giants. Here, revered and ancient BAOBAB TREES still stand tall. text Emma van Egmond IN WESTERN Madagascar, the dirt road that links the towns of Morondava and Belon’i Tsiribihina is lined with about 25 magnificent baobab trees; each 30-m tall and 800+ years old (carbon dating indicates that many of the oldest African baobabs are between 1,000 and 2,000 years old). This is the Avenue of the Baobabs, and it’s the perfect place to get up close to these mighty trees. The otherworldly baobab, known as the Tree of Life, is a sacred tree to many in these parts for its apparent spiritual and health-giving properties. Able to store 120,000 litres of water in their hollow trunks, they can be tapped for water in the dry season. And with six times more vitamin C than oranges, the fruit of this tree is increasingly being seen as a “superfood”. But sadly, the baobab appears to be a victim of climate change, with rising temperatures making them more susceptible to disease, drought and fire. This means that you should plan a visit to this natural wonder while you still can. Be sure to do so during sunset or sunrise, when the trees’ silhouettes stand out against the orange sky, and the hazel-coloured trunks turn gold in the light. The journey can be bumpy and arduous, but you’ll be rewarded with an unforgettable experience. Kenya Airways operates daily flights from Nairobi’s Jomo Kenyatta International Airport to Ivato International Airport in Antananarivo.
NATURE / 13 Kim Paffen
HABARI / 15 Pan-fried Over 2,000 Stone grasshoppers, also Age rock carvings Habari known as nsenene, have been found at are a delicacy in Twyfelfontein Uganda. in Namibia. Portraits Dazzling Design No matter which creative tools Kenyan visual artist Evans Mbugua uses to express himself, people are always at the heart of his aesthetic approach. Through colourful, dazzling works, he portrays his life and the lives of his friends and strangers. Diversity nourishes his curiosity of the world. Mbugua was born in Nairobi in 1979 and is currently living in Paris. ~ Instagram: @evans_mbugua
16 / HABARI SPQR, an abbreviation of The There are more than Senate and People of Rome, 150,000 islands in is inscribed on manhole Botswana’s Okavango Delta. covers in Rome. Nairobi Shutterstock Gourmet burgers Ten-pin bowling Mama Rocks Village Bowl Two brilliant Nigerian/British If there’s a better bowling alley in Nairobi, then we aren’t aware of ladies – Samantha and Natalie it. This place is fantastic, not least because it’s at Village Market – rocked up in Kenya a few Mall, and these fellows don’t cut corners when it comes to enter- years ago with an idea that’s tainment. Why not add a bit of fun to your weekend? You could wrapped around street food practise your swing (if you aren’t into boxing) and give this a go. and the zeitgeisty food-truck We suggest going with a group of friends. If not, you’ll probably model. It was a fresh idea that meet people there who you can play with. There are drinks, resonated with the urban Nai- which means you can have a beer as you swing. The mood is robi crowd who were tempted right, meaning that there’s a lot of whining (by the losers) and by something unique and out- shouting (by the winners). Online wine of-the-box (as out-of-the-box as a food truck can be) and Cellar 254 ~ villagemarket-kenya.com newish. Their burgers, which are made from prime cuts, are Who wants to go out to a served in a brioche bun. shop looking for wine when you can go online? This portal ~ mamarocksburgers.com features over 67 varieties of Shutterstock wine from 7 countries. You can shop according to your taste in style, region, type, grape and price. Oh, and they deliver right to your doorstep, so you don’t have to rush out and leave the party. ~ cellar254.com Great salads Amani Garden Cafe This café was started by Becky Chinchen, a US missionary who fled from Liberia to Kenya where she – and three other refugees – began making placemats and selling them to hotels. Later, they founded their company, Amani ya Juu, which means “peace from above”. Theirs is a social enterprise designed to bring hope to the disadvantaged. Amani Garden Cafe is part of their offering. ~ amanigardencafe.org “The youth can walk faster but the elder knows the road” Nairobi page text: Jackson Biko – African proverb –
HABARI / 17 The Sani Pass, connecting Underberg in Malindi, Diani and Watamu are South Africa with Mokhotlong in Lesotho, just a few of the most popular is considered to be one of the world’s beach destinations along most dangerous mountain passes. What’s On Kenya’s 536-km coastline. Race Ultimate Endurance During the 84-km long Tsavo Run, participants compete over a stunning but tough endurance course covering large parts of the beautiful Tsavo National Park in Kenya. Funds raised will be used to support the Tsavo Heritage Foundation, work- ing towards the protection of endangered ecosystems in the park. This spectacular event will take place on 7 December. ~ tsavorun.org New Festival Minimal Design Afro Punk New Lagos-based design With editions in London, brand, The Aga Concept, Paris and Brooklyn, the Afro breathes minimalism while Punk Festival caters to a taking inspiration from growing young community African culture and everyday through music, art, film, life. With wooden spoons to comedy and fashion. For cutting boards, it combines the newest edition of this basic colours and age-old popular event, head to traditions to create a truly Johannesburg, South Africa, modern aesthetic. on 30 and 31 December. Getty Images ~ Instagram: @theagaconcept ~ afropunk.com/festival/joburg Accessories Beautiful Blend Ugandan brand, Kona, merges Indian and African influences into stunning bags and jewellery using a mix of patterns, styles, colours and materials. With raw materials sourced locally and products hand- made by a team of women in Kampala, Kona aims to employ and empower local artisans. ~ kona.ug Culture It’s a Celebration! Rusinga Island, in the Kenyan part of Lake Victoria, is home to a unique festival. This year, on 19 and 20 December, The Rusinga Cultural Festival celebrates its eighth edition with two days of music, Habari text: Eva de Vries fashion, food, literature and more, highlighting the local Suba culture. ~ facebook.com/rusingafestival
18 / HABARI Lake Kariba is the world’s biggest The majority of Burundi’s man-made lake by volume, and population lives in villages that are supplies hydroelectricity to Zambia scattered throughout the highlands. and Zimbabwe. Column Jackson Biko ADPhD I’m sitting in a gazebo at a group therapy session on a by your ADHD status. My group is an eclectic family: a boy balmy Saturday afternoon. If I was an auditor, or in one of of 15 with gold teeth (accompanied by his supportive par- those serious professions that involves sitting in a corner and ents); a banker; a university student; a lady with a thousand staring constantly at a computer screen, I wouldn’t be here. bangles; an architect; an Uber driver; a tattooed guy who I’m here by happenstance because – a couple of months back refused to declare what he does (so let’s just say “a football – I went to interview a clinical psychiatrist about mental hooligan”); a landscaper; a Somali guy with a nice watch; a health in millennials and he said, “By the way, have you done gentleman who had just turned 30 and received divorce papers an ADHD test?” I hadn’t, so he picked up the phone and from his wife as his birthday gift; a lady with pouty lips; a guy said, “Linda, could you get me the xx forms?” (I can’t recall who said very little (probably secret police); and yours truly. the exact name; I was distracted by his tie.) I did the test, and like most tests I’ve done in my life, I passed. “Biko,” he said. “You have Attention Deficit Hyperactivity Disorder but... Biko?” “Oh sorry,” I replied, while putting the miniature silver elephant back on his desk. “Talking about oneself “You’re not badly off,” he continued. “Yours is a moderate case.” It explained a lot. I get distracted easily. I’m super im- is fun, especially when patient. I get angry fast. I drift in and out of conversations. If I think you’re full of it, I will zone out but leave you with an intense concentrated look (when I’m actually thinking about you’re uniterrupted” where European ducks go during winter). Therapy’s a hoot. I started mine by visiting a young man who was wearing tight trousers and a thin belt. He was actually a therapist with qualifications, but he could have passed for a I don’t like groups. I’m a snow leopard. I walk in the shad- social media influencer. I’d spent the last ten years as a writer ows; the limelight is not my home. So, these group sessions listening to people jabber on about their lives, and now it was aren’t my cup of tea. But I’ve learnt so much about “schemas” my turn. After one session, I realised what I’d been missing: (Google it when you land) and knowing – and managing – talking about oneself is a ton of fun, especially when you’re myself. We all speak like we’re a special tribe with unique uninterrupted. My therapist never interrupts me. He better features – like albino zebras – and, quite frankly, if you’re not not because it’s costing me US$50 an hour! I’ve had two ses- ADHD you’re missing out. The meetings make everybody sions so far. I talked about my deceased mother in both. I feel good and special. The word “normal” is discouraged in didn’t cry, in case you’re wondering. all sentences. Anyway, I just started thinking about those Illustration: Hannah Wieslander My therapist told me that I need to meet other people ducks in Europe again. I’m wondering why nobody ponders with ADHD because it might help me to comprehend the such things. How can a flock of ducks just disappear from a condition. The ADHD support group mirrors Alcoholics pond and folk just go about their business unperturbed? Just Anonymous because you start by stating your name followed how cold is Europe’s heart?
HABARI / 19 Juba, the capital of South The Niassa Game Reserve Sudan, is located on the shores is the largest conservation of the White Nile. area in Mozambique, and Arts & Culture one of the most pristine wilderness areas in Africa. Inspiration Design African Urban Furniture Highlights From mirrors to seating, the signature style of The Victoria Falls, Mount Kilimanjaro or Urbanative is characterised Zanzibar are examples of African by clean, functional designs, destinations on the top of many and geometric Ndebele bucket lists. But, why not beat textiles, contrasted with steel the crowds and explore one of and wood. The South these often-overlooked but equally African brand explores the extraordinary places? role of culture in modern society, aiming to convey a Rwenzori Mountains, Uganda & modern African narrative. Democratic Republic of the Congo Located in the border region of ~ theurbanative.com western Uganda and Democratic Republic of the Congo, the Rwenzori Mountains are characterised by peaks topped with snow and glaciers, waterfalls and lakes, as well as rare flora. Crowning this mountain range is Mount Stanley, Africa’s third-highest peak and a source of the Nile River. The best way to explore this tough terrain is by foot. ~ ugandawildlife.org Creativity Simien Mountains National Park, Food Art Ethiopia The Simien Mountains are worth From a lady wearing earrings made of onions to red lips Music formed from fruit, Nigerian visual artist Haneefah Adam Reggae visiting for many reasons. This spectacular and unique mountain turns leftover food into beautiful pieces of art. for Peace range is home to a number of endangered species, such as the ~ haneefahadam.com Ethiopian wolf and the walia ibex, as well as the gelada baboon and The Nigeria Reggae Festival, the caracal. Hikers will be amazed from 28 to 30 December, by the quiet highland ridges covered strives to spread a message “In the moment with grasses, isolated trees and the of love, peace and unity. bizarre giant lobelia plant. Featured artists include ~ simienpark.org Lioness Fonts and Singing of crisis, the wise Vernon. Check the website for venue details. build bridges and ~ nigeriareggaefestival.com the foolish build dams” Getty Images – Nigerian proverb –
20 / TRAVEL / Essentials Big Ben is the nickname given to Buckingham Palace has the largest of the bells inside the 775 rooms, 760 windows, 1,514 famous tower housing it. doors and over 40,000 lightbulbs. Packing for London Travel-sized beauty kit including face cleanser, rose shampoo and conditioner, plus vanilla and orange hand cream. Grown Alchemist, US$81. Women’s wool-blend pea coat by Lemaire as part of a special collaboration. Uniqlo, US$199. Add sparkle to any outfit with these gold-plated Barbelle earrings. Saskia Diez, US$197. Chrome-plated safety razor shaving set keeps you free of stubble for London nights out. Mühle, US$155. Women’s cashmere roll-neck sweater to keepyou warm during the winter months. Whistles, Burgundy mixed-stripe, US$389. ribbed woollen beanie hat with pom-pom. Paul Smith, US$95. Harlequin Jacquard Weekender Bag by the famous house of floral fabrics. Liberty London, US$640. Each gold-leaf Christmas cracker contains a Umbrella tie pin crown, entertaining scroll Selection: Gijsje Ribbens – a nod to the and silver-plated gift. famous British Fortnum & Mason, weather. Simon Santal 33 Travel Tube, packs in scents evoking classic US$73. Carter, US$38. cowboy-style masculinity. Le Labo, US$162.
22 / TRAVEL / Dakar Maison Abaka’s terrace.
TRAVEL / 23 COASTAL ESCAPE Only a stone’s throw from the bustle of DAKAR, laid-back beaches and world-class waves beckon. Getty Images text Joost Bastmeijer
24 / TRAVEL / Dakar THERE’S A bottle of white wine on the sun-faded red tablecloth. The sun is coming in through the open windows along with the ocean wind, illuminating the red-brick interior of Hostellerie du Chevalier de Boufflers, a small restaurant on Île de Gorée that’s filled with small paintings framed in driftwood. In the back, an old man is ironing napkins. Outside, fishermen prepare their boats on the beach for another departure. It’s scenes like this that create an unexpected tranquillity that’s always close at hand throughout the coastal hub that is Dakar, as weʼve come to realise in the course of our stay. Getty Images, Shutterstock BOATS & BEACHES But our trip doesnʼt start on this beautiful stretch of fine sand; it starts in a 30-year-old taxi inching through Dakar traffic, en route to the beachside neighbourhood of N’Gor in the north of the Cap-Vert peninsula in which Dakar is nestled. Upon arriving at Maison Abaka, a small boutique hotel only 10 km from central Dakar, relaxation mode sets in “Yes, this is the Dakar we’d been hoping for” instantly as life here clearly occurs at a different pace. On the sand in front, children kick a ball, while others play some table football. We’re greeted by a few women selling boiled eggs sprinkled with a spicy red “piment” powder. After checking in, Where to sleep we look out over the glimmering surface of the Atlantic Ocean. Maison Abaka Together with the hotel owner’s parrot, we take in the view. This hotels offers the best access Yes, this is the Dakar we’d been hoping for. to N’Gor Beach and the famous Already wearing our swimwear and ready for a dive the surfing island. maison-abaka.com next morning, we leave the hotel’s back entrance to N’Gor Beach. Taking a dip looks tempting, but this beach is mainly Quiksilver Boardriders Surf Camp used by fishermen. “Do you want to go to the other side?” A budget hangout – in the middle a friendly older gentleman asks us in French. He points to a of the N’Gor neighbourhood – with colourful boat making its way to the island across the water. nice staff and an outdoor pool, this Known as a pirogue, this traditional wooden fishing boat is perfect for young backpackers. looks a bit like a long, narrow canoe with an outboard motor quiksilversenegal.com on the back. “That boat will take you to Île de N’Gor.” This peaceful speck of an island under a kilometre away, King Fahd Palace Hotel Above: N’gor, a surf club is perfect for spending a day exploring. What makes it extra This massive five-star hotel is that’s become a surfer relaxing is the fact that there are no cars here; the island is located in the middle of the fancy hideaway in Africa’s only 800 metres long, so none are needed. After renting a Les Almadies neighbourhood. westernmost point, just beach lounger and having lunch at one of the many waterside kingfahdpalacehotels.com off the coast of Dakar eateries, we take a stroll to the western side of the island. (top); A beach in Dakar From here, we can see the busy Dakar skyline in the distance. N’Gor Island Surf Camp (bottom left); Pink Surf the mythical waves on Île de hibiscus flowers (bottom SURFING HAVEN N’Gor, although lessons here come right). Sitting on a rock on the western side of Île de N’Gor, with quite a price tag. gosurf.dk Right page: Île de Gorée, we watch the island’s legendary waves crashing on the coastline a UNESCO World Heritage before meeting Philipp and Matar. The two are surfing with Villa Castel Site (top); Hostellerie du the N’Gor Island Surf Camp, located on one of the largest This Île de Gorée villa boasts a Chevalier de Boufflers plots on the island. The surf school, owned by US-Senegalese lovely flower garden and outdoor (bottom left); Senegalese rapper Akon, also boasts rooms and a small restaurant. swimming pool. villacastelgoree.com women with their children “It’s a great place to spend my holiday,” the Austrian Philipp on a sandy beach says. “The waves here are amazing. Have you seen the > (bottom right).
TRAVEL / 25
26 / TRAVEL / Dakar Îles de la Madeleine, to the west of Dakar.
TRAVEL / 27 “We watch the island’s legendary waves crashing on the coastline” Getty Images
28 / TRAVEL / Dakar
TRAVEL / 29 Left page: A street stall in Dakar’s suburbs (top); A colonial building on Île de Gorée (bottom left); The local catch (bottom right). Mirjam Bleeker film, The Endless Summer? See the wave they are surfing right over there?” he says, pointing at a powerful rising crest. “That’s what the movie is all about.” The 1966 cult surf documentary, “It’s scenes like this that create an unexpected which follows two young surfers who travel the world in search tranquillity that’s always close at hand” of the perfect wave, put this island on the international surfing map for the first time. Back on the mainland, we travel to the twin hills called Collines des Mamelles. They’re located at the westernmost point of the African continent. To get there, we cross several of Dakar’s suburban neighbourhoods, including Ndeureuhnou, Diongarane, Les Almadies and Ouakam. It’s easy to see that Day trips from Dakar Dakar is a city that’s constantly on the move: new buildings Lac Rose are being built in every direction, and each is in a different About 30 km from downtown Dakar is Lac Retba, stage of completion. Senegal’s capital, and biggest city, is more commonly known as Lac Rose for the colour progressing quickly, as the country develops, but it’s still of its waters. possible to catch glimpses of a previous era. Dakar was It’s at its most vivid in the dry season, when high founded by the French in 1857 and this influence can still be salt content attracts the Dunaliella salina algae, seen in some of the architecture. Examples include Dakar which produces a red pigment. The lake is only an Hospital and the Marché Kermel, a covered European-style hourʼs drive away, and can be reached by public market in the centre of town selling fresh produce, crafts and bus, although a private taxi is the most convenient souvenirs. The original structure burned down in a fire, but it way to get there. was rebuilt in the original style in 1997. Pervading the city, no matter where you go, is a strong Petite Côte sense of teranga: the traditional Senegalese culture of Already seen the sandy beaches of Île de Gorée hospitality. This is particularly so at the frenetic markets, and Île de N’Gor? Head to La Petite Côte, where which are brought to life by the inhabitants of this diverse you’ll find 70 km of unspoilt coastline between metropolis who wear brightly coloured fabrics and sharply Dakar’s Cap-Vert peninsula and the Sine-Saloum tailored suits. Poet, philosopher and first President of Senegal Delta. Léopold Sédar Senghor – the man who Dakar’s airport is named after – loved Dakar and predicted that it would have a Îles de la Madeleine bright future. It’s easy to see why: Dakar has a tangible pride Dakar is surrounded by the Atlantic Ocean on the and fresh, seaside city spirit that sets it aside from other West Cap-Vert peninsula, and there are many islands African capitals. to be found that can be easily reached from the city itself. In December, the uninhabited Îles de la TO THE LIGHTHOUSE Madeleine is a haven for watching wild migratory That Senegalese pride is also apparent in the colossal birds. bronze statue on top of one of the Collines des Mamelles. At 49 metres tall, the African Renaissance Monument is the tallest statue in Africa. Unveiled in 2010, it commemorates Senegal’s independence from France in 1960. Inside, a daunt- ing number of steps take you to the top for a sweeping view of this city of over a million, dotted with minarets and steeples. Senegal is mainly Muslim, but in most places, it’s not necessary to cover up knees, head or shoulders as non-Muslim When to visit visitors. That of course is not the case when you want to visit Most tourists visit Senegal from November to the Grand Mosque of Dakar in the city’s downtown area, or March, with a peak during the holiday season. But the seaside Mosque of the Divinity: an architectural gem with you can visit Dakar at any time of the year. arresting ocean views. Getting around Getty Images Atop the other hill is the photogenic, white Les Mamelles Lighthouse. Built in 1864 to help sailors navigate the seas Dakar is notorious for its traffic, so be prepared. around these parts, the lighthouse, which is still being > Most of the time, taxis are your best bet.
30 / TRAVEL / Dakar Left: A shop selling African leather bags (top); The Les Mamelles Lighthouse (bottom left); Two children in front of a house facade on Île de Gorée (bottom right). used, is open daily for visitors; it’s even possible to see the original curved Fresnel lens that still illuminates the city at night. The best thing after the climb up? Restaurant Le Phare des Mamelles next door offers some great meals and simply stunning views. After eating, we head to the southern side of the Cap- Vert peninsula, where there’s another boat trip to be had. This time, we set sail – on a bigger boat – for another nearby island, Île de Gorée, which is only 20 minutes away. The easy-going vibe, friendly locals enjoying their day outside and the vividly coloured buildings paint a picture of an island idyll that is a world away from Île de Gorée’s darker history. From the 15th century to the 19th century, it served as an outpost for the Atlantic slave trade. The island is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site attracting countless visitors from around the world. Built by the Dutch in 1772, the infa- mous House of Slaves is now a museum, acting as an enduring “The sun is coming in through the open windows memorial and symbol of freedom lost. Although most head along with the ocean wind” back to Dakar on the same day, we spend the night on the island, at the beautifully situated Villa Castel. HIBISCUS HUES Where to eat The next day is the last day of our trip. We board a boat Bayékou to return to the mainland and stop off at restaurant La This Mediterranean restaurant in N’Gor does Cabane du Surfeur for a final view of the sea. The waiter some of the best fish dishes. The ceviche comes encourages us to try “the best bissap in Dakar”, as we really highly recommended. can’t head home without having tasted it. This is just one of the many places that serves the vivid pink juice, made by La Cabane du Surfeur infusing hibiscus flowers in hot water. From the poolside More than just a surfer’s den, this restaurant on of Radisson Blu Hotel’s infinity pool, to the small family-run the Petit Corniche serves some outstanding food. fruit shops, you can get it anywhere. And like this fruity fresh Try the shrimps on their layered outside terrace. drink, the city and its tropical surroundings already beg for another taste. There’s so much yet to experience: the scenic Chez Fatou coasts of Senegal’s Petite Côte south of Dakar, the colonial This restaurant is popular with expats. Make a city of Saint-Louis, a day trip to the pink waters of Lac Rose reservation on weekend nights. or the tranquillity of the Îles de la Madeleine. Although we’re leaving, we know it won’t be long before we’ll be back for more. The Lulu Café Come here for great coffee, a hip vibe and an adjoining book and design store. lulu.sn Hostellerie du Chevalier de Boufflers Hands-down the cutest restaurant, with beautiful sights over the beach on Île de Gorée. Joost Bastmeijer, Getty Images Le Phare des Mamelles Located in a building that used to be part of the ➔ adjacent lighthouse, this restaurant offers great views. The only downside? The US$9 admission. Plan your trip pharedesmamelles.com Book your flight to Dakar on kenya-airways.com
TRAVEL / 31 A man watches over Dakar’s skyline from a bench near Île de Gorée’s ‘Mémorial Gorée-Almadies. credit xxxxx
32 / PEOPLE / Dancers Movers And Shakers To make it as a dancer you need passion, dedication and drive. But before that, there’s a dream. And the courage to go for it. These DANCE STARS are making their mark with every jump, leap and twirl. text Eromo Egbejule Michaela THE CHILDHOOD of Michaela DePrince, born in 1995 as Mabinty Bangura in war-torn Sierra Leone, could not be further removed from the ballet star’s DePrince current life. After losing her parents at the age of three, she ended up in an orphanage where her vitiligo condition meant that she was thought to be cursed. Seeing a picture of a ballerina on the cover of a Country magazine gave DePrince something to dream about. Sierra Leone And, when she was evenutally adopted by an American family – after 12 other families had refused to take her Current home – she could finally start becoming the girl in that photo. Amsterdam, the Netherlands The young dancer went on to attend the Rock School for Dance Education in Philadelphia, but as Highlights she told Vogue Italia, she also encountered prejudice Forthcoming film, Taking Flight, about there. “As a child, I didn’t understand why there were her life, which is being directed by no black students in dance schools; classmates and Madonna; Performing in Beyoncé’s music teachers made me feel different and tried steering me video, Lemonade; toward modern dance,” she says. “Now, I no longer feel Ambassador for War Child discriminated against: things are changing, but classical dance should be more open to ethnic diversity.” Style The 2011 documentary, First Position, traces her Classical ballet preparations for the Youth America Grand Prix, the world’s largest student ballet competition. Her talent Online was rewarded with a scholarship to the prestigious michaeladeprince.com American Ballet Theatre programme for young dancers. Her fierce determination has brought her to the top. She’s now a soloist for the Dutch National Ballet, and stars in a Beyoncé video. “It’s not a fairy tale,” she said, speaking to NBC News. “You have to work hard. There’s a lot of loss, a lot of pain. But performing? I love it.” She has written a memoir and is ambassador for Dutch NGO War Child, which helps children in conflict zones to soar beyond their backgrounds.
PEOPLE / 33 “As a child, I didn’t understand why there were no black students in dance schools” Image: Jacqueline de Haas Quote: Vogue Italia
34 / PEOPLE / Dancers Agnes Styling: Connie Aluoch Styling Management Email: info@conniealuoch.com Photography: Victor Murithiw (Julikana Agency) Photographer’s Assistant: Daniel Chege Kiunga Stage name Aggie the Dance Queen Country Kenya Current home Fashion Assistants: Stephanie Njoki & Tara Chao Hair: Shiro Wanyoike Makeup: Mwaju Chaks Makeup Nairobi, Kenya Highlights Resident choreographer at Coke Studio Africa Performance at the 2018 Bahrain Grand Prix Style Contemporary, hip-hop, pop Online Instagram: @aggie_the_dance_queen “I can’t believe that one video has brought so much inspiration and a new wave of appreciation” FAME CAME calling for Agnes Kiunga, popularly known For this Kenyan choreographer and fitness instructor, by her stage name “Aggie the Dance Queen”, in 2018 when she dancing is a lifestyle. It’s something of an unexpected lifestyle, became an instant Internet sensation starring in the hit music however, for someone who originally started her career in a very video, Short N Sweet, by Kenyan band, Sauti Sol. different direction, studying biology at Kenyatta University. She The almost effortless-looking stylish cool of her dance even has a Bachelor’s degree in the subject. moves, together with her colourful striped jumpsuit, immediately Kiunga’s journey into professional dancing first began in 2012 captivated viewers at home and abroad, sending her career as a when she started working with the famous Kenyan dance group, dancer spinning into a higher orbit. Sarakasi Trust. During her six years there, she worked with many Kiunga has since gone on to shine in performances around the African artists, appearing in both local and international music world, including the 2018 Formula 1 Grand Prix auto race in videos. She credits choreographer and dancer, Oscar Mwalo, for Bahrain. “My neighbours are a bit shocked to realise that I’m the playing a formative role as one of her teachers; and the two are same chick who has been living next to them all this time,” she now married. said, speaking to Kenya newspaper, Daily Nation. But, she’s quick The colourful dance styles that she creates with and for artists to stress that the video brought more than personal success; it also and dancers from all over the continent are a testament to the made people appreciate dance as a career in Kenya. young dancer’s zest and individuality.
PEOPLE / 35 Sherrie Silver Country Rwanda Current home London, UK Highlights MTV Video Music Award for choreography, 2018 Choreography for Childish Gambino video Style Contemporary, hip-hop, pop Online sherriesilver.com; Instagram: @sherriesilver Belange Okandju, mcmedialondon.com “I don’t just do this for fun...I want to give back. I travel and teach African dance from all over the continent” SHERRIE SILVERʼS trajectory is definitely one for the as a hobby. As a teenager, she recorded YouTube videos of herself books. In 2018, she choreographed the viral This Is America doing popular African dance moves, adding catchy twists and video, by US musician Childish Gambino. In the video, which reimagining the dances of her roots. has gone on to garner almost 600 million views on YouTube, With the fame that came with the videos, Silver set out on Silver incorporated fun, energetic African-inspired dance moves a path to an impressive career, working with superstars such as from all over the continent, including Ghana’s Alkayida, Nigeria’s Wizkid, Sean Paul and Tiwa Savage. It was through one of those Shaku Shaku and South Africa’s Gwara Gwara. videos that she was approached by Childish Gambino. “Dance is everything to us,” she said, speaking to Rwanda’s When she’s not making music videos, she teaches African New Times. “No matter how much is going on; even if it’s in the dance, acts and uses her platform for philanthropy. “I don’t just middle of a war or poverty or hunger, one thing Africans share is do this for fun,” she told OkayAfrica. “I really do it because I that we dance our sorrows away. Not even professionally, it’s just want to give back. I travel and teach African dance from all over a part of our culture.” the continent. I take the money I generate from teaching back to Born in Rwanda, her earliest memories were of dancing in Rwanda, Uganda and Nigeria to redevelop schools and help get church and performing for family members. Her family moved to homeless kids off the street. For me, it’s not just about dancing; the UK when she was five and it was there that she began dancing it’s the actual outcome that matters most.”
36 / PEOPLE / Dancers Kafayat Oluwatoyin Shafau Stage name Kaffy Country Nigeria Current home Lagos, Nigeria Highlights Broke the Guinness World Record for “Longest Dance Party” in 2006; Best Female Dancer of the Year at the African Muzik Magazine Awards, 2014; Best Choreographer of the Year at The Beatz Awards, 2015 Style Contemporary, pop, Afrobeat Online Instagram: @kaffydance Jerrie Rotimi “I have an opportunity to directly impact people’s lives for the better” THE NIGERIAN dancer, choreographer and fitness coach choreographies, which were characterised by vigorous movements, – popularly known as “Kaffy” – was born in Lagos as Kafayat were unlike what people were used to. This led her to work with Oluwatoyin Shafau. the likes of Tiwa Savage, P-Square and D’banj, among others. She initially studied to be an aeronautical engineer before In 2015, Shafau won Best Choreographer of the Year at The turning to dance. It proved to be a good gamble, after she was Beatz Awards. More recently, she received a Special Recognition discovered while performing during a dance rehearsal session at Award at the 2018 version of the Headies. the Lagos National Stadium. The founder and owner of Imagneto Dance Company, Shafau In 2006, she and her dance crew danced for 55 hours and created The Dance Workshop: a programme to train and mentor 40 minutes at the Nokia Silverbird Danceathon, breaking the aspiring professional dancers, as well as promote cultural exchange Guinness World Record for “Longest Dance Party”. From then within the Nigerian dance industry. She aims to ensure that dancers on, her impressive career took off and she began establishing are better paid and able to earn a sustainable income. herself as a dynamic symbol for dance in Nigeria. “At the time “I have an opportunity to directly impact people’s lives for the I did it, dance was not popular,” she explains. better, empower people’s minds. I couldn’t have chosen better,” Shafau’s stamina and energy set her apart, earning her a place she says. in many of the music videos being released at the time. Her new
PEOPLE / 37 Somizi Mhlongo Stage name SomGaga Country South Africa Current home Johannesburg, South Africa Highlights Choreography for the 2010 FIFA World Cup opening and closing ceremonies; choreography for the African Cup of Nations 2013 ceremonies; the face of global cosmetics brand Black Opal; choreography for the South African Music Awards Style Contemporary, pop, Gqom, Kwaito Online Instagram: @somizi ANP Foto “I was born into a family of superstars, so it wouldn’t make sense for fame to get to my head” A MAN of many talents, Somizi Buyani Mhlongo is a chore- He’s danced in heels and in outlandish costumes, he’s danced ographer, TV and radio personality, actor and singer. He also goes for social justice and more. In 2017, he was the ambassador for by the name “SomGaga”. the Department of Water and Sanitation in South Africa and Born in 1972 in Soweto, South Africa to two veteran actors, evolved again in the same year to release dance workout videos Mhlongo was exposed to the entertainment world from a very incorporating South African moves. young age. “I was born into a family of superstars, so it wouldn’t Known for his trademark carefree style and contagious cheer, make sense for fame to go to my head,” he says. “My parents he lent his experience to upcoming dancers, stepping in as a judge were famous but we were still poor. It taught me that fame is in TV talent show competitions. “To me that is the joy of it. I just status.” don’t feel threatened at all for I aim to give up-and-coming He made his acting debut at the age of 13 and in 1987, joined choreographers a chance,” he says. the broadway musical Sarafina!, travelling the world for five years With over 30 years of experience, Mhlongo has become one with the production. In 1992, he made his big dance break in the of the most notable personalities in the country. Proving that he film adaptation of Sarafina!, which he choreographed and starred truly is a man of many faces, last year he was named ambassador in. Three years later, he starred in another popular adaptation, of Black Opal, the first male to represent the brand and first Cry, The Beloved Country. African man to be the face of a makeup company.
38 / TRAVEL / Facts Baggage allowance on Kenya Airways Kenya Airways strives to flights is usually 32 kg per piece for deliver all baggage within Loading And Offloading business guests and 23 kg per 20 minutes of arrival. piece for economy guests. Kenya Airways operates two Boeing 737 aircraft that fly The Boeing 787 as full freighters Dreamliner can to 17 different transport over 40 destinations across tonnes of cargo, the the continent. Boeing 737-800 can carry 8.4 tonnes and the Embraer 190 holds approx. 3.3 tonnes. Hold baggage and cargo shipments are transported and sky-priority baggage is normally loaded last so that to their destination below the cabin in the belly of an it’s offloaded first on arrival. aircraft, which is right underneath passengers’ feet. “No Njoroge explains that baggage or cargo can either be effort is spared to ensure that the baggage or the cargo loaded as bulk pieces that are tied down using hold nets shipment is under watertight security, carefully sorted or be put into consolidated units – either containers, at the baggage ‘make-up’ area and delivered for loading pallets or Unit Load Devices (ULDs) – to ease handling. Text: Captain Bajaber Image: Alamy into the aircraft,” says Manager Ramp Services Samuel “Loading and offloading is done using heavy, complicated Njoroge. “A team of loading staff, led by a turnaround and military-looking machines, such as high loaders coordinator, ensures that cargo is loaded right inside and belt loaders, which are operated by qualified ground the belly, while the baggage is loaded next to the belly staff. Kenya Airways has invested in a tracking system hold door to ensure quick offloading and delivery to the that allows the loading team to determine – by a click of baggage claim area upon arrival.” Fragile baggage or a button – if all baggage has been loaded or offloaded. cargo is loaded with special care, and business class If not, it helps us to track down its location.”
40 / BUSINESS / New industry WHITE GOLD As CAMEL MILK is increasingly being recognised for its HEALTH BENEFITS, more and more entrepreneurs are waking up to the business potential of these drought-resistant animals. text Andrea Dijkstra Shutterstock
BUSINESS / 41 litres a month, delivering both camel milk and four different flavours of camel yogurt to supermarkets in the Kenyan capital. big supermarkets such as Carrefour and GLOBAL BUZZ Chandarana Foodplus, and collaborates “With camel milk being so nutri- with allergists at Aga Khan University tious, it’s on track to becoming the new Hospital, Nairobi Hospital and Kenyatta superfood,” says Warsame, referring to National Hospital. “They’re doing trials other African “superfoods” that are with our camel milk and the responses drawing western customers due to their are very good; especially with patients high content of nutrients and antioxi- with diabetes and lactose intolerance,” dants, such as baobab and tamarind adds Warsame. He hopes that Kenya INSIDE HAMDI, a busy Nairobi fruit, hibiscus tea, pumpkin leaves and will become the global research hub for café in the Central Business District, the ancient grains, including Ethiopia’s tef camel milk. morning rush is already underway. What and Senegal’s fonio. Entrepreneurs in other African coun- will it be? A macchiato, flat white, or WhiteGold, a camel-milk-processing tries are joining the camel-dairy business what about a “camelcino”? Made with company that kick-started operations in as well. In Mauritania, the Tiviski dairy Kenyan camel milk, it looks just like a the Kenyan town of Nanyuki in 2017, is has been successful in ending the reliance regular cappuccino, but at the first sip, seeking approval from the European on imported long-life and powdered there’s a smoky saltiness that’s different, Food Safety Authority and the Food cow’s milk by setting up a camel-milk- but quite tasty. “We also do tea and a and Drug Administration in the US to processing factory, providing the people vanilla shake with camel milk,” says start exporting to those regions. “In the with a fresh and healthy alternative. The waitress Sofia Gitau. West, camel milk is being sold as medici- company currently produces camel milk, Traditionally, only pastoralist com- nal, so that’s a super interesting market,” camel butter and camel cheese. In Chad munities drank camel milk; but today says founder Jama Warsame (no relation and Kenya, milk cafés are helping to camelcinos are popping up in multiple to Bashir Warsame). WhiteGold is now popularise the consumption of the milk, Nairobi cafés because the middle class is producing 13,000 litres of camel milk per while Egypt’s Tayyiba Farms offers developing a taste for camel milk. And month. In Kenya, the company sells to a range of products including camel > not just there. Worldwide, a growing number of health-conscious consumers are turning to camel milk because of its nutritional benefits. Camel milk has three times as much vitamin C as cow’s milk, ten times the iron, has less fat and “With camel milk being so nutritious, is rich in vitamin B. And, there are hopes that it can help control diabetes it’s on track to becoming the new superfood” because it contains natural insulin. Also, with less lactose than cow’s milk, it’s thought that camel milk is better for those with a lactose allergy. The Food and Agriculture Organiza- tion of the United Nations estimates that the global camel milk industry could be worth up to US$10 billion a year. And in Kenya, there’s talk of a “camel rush” as demand outstrips supply. The country’s camel-dairy business is still in a nascent phase, however, with much of the “white gold” being sold in domestic markets. But, a new group of entrepreneurs is now tapping into this business and trying to move from the traditional consumption of camel milk towards pasteurised and powdered Jeroen van Loon forms. “We chose to pasteurise the camel milk to extend the shelf life and make it widely available to communities throughout Kenya,” says Bashir Warsame, who launched camel-milk- Going global processing firm Nuug Camel Milk in Camel-milk cappuccinos are not only popping in Nairobi. UAE company Camelicious is selling a Nairobi last year. The entrepreneur pre-packaged version, and “camelcinos” are also making a careful appearance on café menus sources from herders in the southern internationally. Last summer, Glasgowʼs Willow Tea Rooms attracted national attention when it and central towns of Voi and Isiolo teamed up with international NGO Mercy Corps to support Kenyan camel-milk initiatives. Coming respectively. He produces roughly 9,000 soon to a café near you perhaps?
42 / BUSINESS / New industry “ships of the desert”. “With camels you always have milk in your house,” says Ole Nkiu, a Maasai. He bought camels after almost half of his 190 cows died during a severe drought 10 years ago. The higher price of the milk attracts “Thanks to the profits new camel owners as well, according to Simpkin. “At US$1 a litre, a camel owner Wajir County, Mercy Corps has helped to install refrigerated vending machines from camel milk, I’m receives five times the price of cow’s for camel milk, allowing traders to milk,” says the researcher, who adds deliver it fresh to the customer without able to send my eight that cows and camels can live very well it going sour; and CELEP has bought a children to school” together as they eat different vegetation. However, entrepreneurs face some refrigerated truck to transport their camel milk to the capital daily. These challenges, such as the camels’ remote measures are being helped by an location, which means that camel milk increase in herders who keep camels has to be transported over long distances. closer to Nairobi, which makes it easier The milk quickly sours in temperatures for camel milk to be transported quickly cheese, kefir and Greek yogurt. Nuug is averaging 40 degrees Celsius in the north to the processing factories. also exploring the development of vari- of Kenya, where the majority of camels Many of the entrepreneurs involved ous camel-milk products, including are kept. “And by nature, camels prefer to believe that camel milk can become an cheese, ice cream and cosmetics. graze deep in the wild, often far from important export for Kenya. “Eighty- good roads, electricity and other essential nine percent of Kenya’s land mass CLIMATE CHANGE infrastructure,” Bashir Warsame says, consists of arid and semi-arid lands, Shifting from cows to camels is making it harder to source the milk. which are suitable for camels,” says also interesting from a climate change These factors have slowed the develop- Bashir Warsame, adding that it has the perspective as the gangly cud-chewers ment of the industry. potential to grow into a multi-billion- are much more drought-resistant. “In Several organisations have come up dollar business that can change the lives a bad drought, a cattle owner will lose with creative solutions. For example, in of herders and milk traders alike. about 50 percent of his herd, while with camels it’s rare to lose more than 16 percent,” says Piers Simpkin, a camel expert who has studied the animals for over 30 years. As numerous parts of Kenya have become drier, according to the Kenya Camel Association, in recent years, over 150,000 Kenyans have started to keep camels. Mariam Maalim is one of them. She keeps camels in the fields near Isiolo town. “My husband and I had over 100 cattle, but as the climate became drier in this region, the cows stopped producing milk and around 30 of our cows died yearly,” says Maalim. “This made us decide to switch to camels as they can survive without water and continue to give milk for more than two weeks.” Maalim and around 30 other women founded the Anolei Women’s Camel Jeroen van Loon Milk Cooperative (CELEP) and now bring about 5,000 litres of camel milk to an Isiolo distribution point every day. “Thanks to the profits from camel milk, I’m able to send my eight children to school and one even goes to university,” Facts & figures says Maalim while handing in her filled • The one-humped Arabian camels, or dromedaries, inhabit the Horn of Africa and the Middle East jerrycans. The flavour fluctuates from and make up 94% of the world’s camel population, while the critically endangered two-humped almost sweet to salty, depending on what Bactrian camels inhabit Central Asia. the camels eat. Here, the smoke used to • Camels store fat in their humps, not water. As a camel goes without food, its hump begins to sterilise the jerrycans adds a slightly shrink. smoky taste. • Camels can raise their body temperature tolerance level as much as six degrees Celsius before Today, even members of the Maasai perspiring, thereby conserving body fluids and avoiding unnecessary water loss. people – who traditionally rely on cows • Somalia is the largest camel-milk producer in the world, followed by Kenya and Mali. – are starting to see the benefits of these • In Sub-Saharan Africa, camels now contribute about 5% of the total milk production.
44 / BUSINESS / Book review “Become a more effective leader and team participant” Strategic Doing: A fast-changing world calls for agile leaders; Ten Skills for Agile Leadership people who can lead transformation by unleashing our full human potential through Authors collaboration. Where to start? Here are three Edward Morrison, Scott Hutcheson, Elizabeth Nilsen, Janyce Fadden and crucial skills from the book, Strategic Doing. Nancy Franklin Publisher Wiley Frame the conversation differentiates the successful groups What does five plus five equal? There’s from those that had more limited Bio only one right answer. But what if impact. Simply put, 30/30s provide The five authors of this book are instead you ask: What two numbers the learning and accountability a members of the Strategic Doing core equal 10? Suddenly there are more team needs to make optimal choices team, linked to the Purdue Agile possibilities. The authors use this and to stay engaged”. In turbulent Strategy Lab. Together, they have example, by Tina Seelig of Stanford times, consider getting together more more than 50 years of experience University, to demonstrate the power frequently. Why? “A system without helping groups adopt an agile strategy of the questions we pose. “A good a feedback loop can spin out of approach. framing question is an invitation to control.” Just think of what would deeper conversation that will lead happen to a heating system without Pages to more questions, experimentation a thermostat. 224 and, ultimately, innovation.” Summary Look for the big easy The 10 skills in this book are tools As an agile leader you should be able designed to help leaders build and to sort through “many options to guide the complex collaborations identify one that has the best chance needed to deal with today’s complex of success”. This is the one that “has challenges. None of us will be equally the largest impact and is the easiest good at all the skills, the authors to implement”. But, resist the urge recognise. Members of the team can to go “big” when it comes to the size bring different skills to the table. of the challenge, the authors warn. Take baby steps if necessary to foster About the book early successes. Each chapter introduces a different skill needed Set 30/30 meetings for agile leadership and Create a regular “feedback loop” by features a case study as Text: Annemarie Hoeve organising 30-minute meetings every well as suggested exercises 30 days to review results and make about how to put each skill any necessary changes. This is the to work. skill, that, “more than any other,
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