The Masahiko Iga Sake Experience with Special Japanese Cuisine by Akio Soga -
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NOVEMBER 2010 The Masahiko Iga Sake Experience with Special Japanese Cuisine by Akio Soga 酒 HANABISHI Japanese Restaurant, 187 King Street Melbourne VIC 3000 Australia
Thank you for joining us for our sake dinner tonight. I'm so glad to have such well respected industry INDEX leaders here at Hanabishi. As background to this evening, I visited Japan and joined a first-ranked first sake brewer to learn more about the sake making process. pro It was a fantastic experience and I learned many secret tips for the making of quality sake. The staffs at the brewery were very generous with me and kindly understood my passion for introducing real Japanese culture to Australia. It is a great pleasure p to share my sake experience and some exceptionally rare and high quality sakes with you. I do not want to say that these premium sake Today's Menu ................................... ..................................................03 will always have the best taste but I would like to show you these sakes because I think it's good to see Today's Sake ................................ ...................................................04 what theth currently top rated sake in Japan look like. Let’s call it professional curiosity. Sake Ingredients ............................. .............................................05 I have only included the very basic information about Sake Grades ....................................................06 Sake in this booklet. Please feel free to ask me questions for more details of Sake making anytime in Step 1: Rice Milling ........................... ..........................................07 this dinner dinne or indeed at anytime in the future. Step 2: Washing & Steaming ........... ..........................08 Thanks to Akio our owner chef, I can match these top Step 3: Koji Koji-mai Making .................................09 ranking sake with food because Akio's Japanese food is also real. I believe this is a great opportunity to Step 4: Fermentation ....................... .......................................10 show you a great Japanese dining experience. Step 5: Pressing ................................. ...............................................11 I hope you enjoy our fantastic Japanese food & Sake dinner. Your success and contribution to our industry Step 6: Pasteurize, Bottling and Aging … ….........12 always ays encourage me. In the same way I hope that my efforts tonight encourage you. Thank you very much, Special Thanks .................................. ................................................13 everyone. All the best to you. Masahiko Iga General Manager, Manager HANABISHI _________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ _____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ THE MASAHIKO IGA SAKE EXPERIENCE - Fifth Edition 2
Today's Menu Aperitifs - Blind Tasting Japanese Style Pure Corn Soup 白川郷 ささにごり酒 ささにごり酒 Shirakawago "Sasanigori" No sugar or any amount of cream is added. Richness and sweetness purely come from corn itself. 純米吟醸 Jyunmai-Ginjo ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………….. Traditional Tasting Plate 梵 超吟 Born "Chogin" A selection of Japanese appetizers 純米大吟醸 Jyunmai-Daiginjo ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………….. Sashimi on Ice - Chef's best selection 根知 2007 Nechi Exquisite fresh raw fish, selected by our specialists 純米吟醸 Jyunmai-Ginjo ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………….. Sugi- Sugi-ita Yaki 大七 箕輪門 Daishichi "Minowamon" Oven Grilled Patagonian Tooth Fish wrapped in aromatic cedar wood 純米大吟醸 Jyunmai-Daiginjo ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………….. Barramundi Shiogama- Shiogama-yaki 十四代 七垂二十貫 Juyondai "Shichitare Nijitkan" Fresh water Barramundi with Yuzu citrus cooked in salt kiln 純米吟醸 Jyunmai-Ginjo ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………….. Wagyu Beef Japanese Style Steak Koshinohana "Kouen" 越の華 好縁 甕酒 Finest Wagyu selected by owner chef, official quality rating of 9+ marble score 純米大吟醸 Jyunmai-Daiginjo …………………………………………………………………………………………………… Rice, Miso Soup and Pickles 大七 純米きもと 純米きもと Daishichi "Jyunmai Kimoto" Shiny beautiful rice from Japan. Aka-dashi miso soup made from mixed miso of our Selection. Good foods with Rice, Miso, Pickles & warm Sake. This is proper and most peaceful meal style of Japan. 純米酒 Jyunmai-Shu ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………….. Dessert Platter - Hanabishi Deluxe Hanahato "Shiori" Aged 8 years 華鳩 醞 貴醸酒 Assortment of 100% pure homemade desserts 純米吟醸 Jyunmai-Ginjo Fresh ice creams and sorbets made with the latest technology “Pacojet” Owner Chef, Akio Soga _________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ THE MASAHIKO IGA SAKE EXPERIENCE - Fifth Edition 3
Today's Sake Dassai Dassai Dassai Born "Chogin" "Niwarisanbu" "Sanwarikyubu" "50" 梵 超吟 獺祭 獺祭 獺祭 純米大吟醸 磨き二割三分 磨き三割九分 50 Class: Junmai-Daiginjo 純米大吟醸 純米大吟醸 純米大吟醸 Rice polish rate: 21% Origin: Fukui Class: Junmai-Daiginjo Class: Junmai-Daiginjo Class: Junmai-Daiginjo Rice: Yamada-Nishiki (Hyogo Rice polish rate: 23% Rice polish rate: 39% Rice polish rate: 50% A-Rank) Origin: Yamaguchi Origin: Yamaguchi Origin: Yamaguchi 16% Alc/Vol Rice: Yamada-Nishiki Rice: Yamada-Nishiki Rice: Yamada-Nishiki Acidity: 1.7 16-17% Alc/Vol 16-17% Alc/Vol 16% Alc/Vol Nihonshudo: +2 Acidity: 1.1 Acidity: 1.3 Acidity: 1.1 Yeast: KATO9 (Brewery's Nihonshudo: +5 Nihonshudo: +5 Nihonshudo: +5 original own) Juyondai Daishichi Daishichi "Shichitare "Minowamon" "Jyunmai Kimoto" Nijitkan" 大七 箕輪門 大七 純米きもと 十四代 七垂二十貫 純米大吟醸 純米酒 純米大吟醸 Class: Junmai-Daiginjo Rice polish rate: 50% Class: Junmai-Shu Rice polish rate: 65% Class: Junmai-Daiginjo Origin: Fukushima Origin: Fukushima Rice polish rate: 40% Rice: Yamada-Nishiki Rice: Gohyakumangoku Origin: Yamagata 15% Alc/Vol 15% Alc/Vol Rice: Aiyama Acidity: 1.4 Acidity: 1.5 16% Alc/Vol Nihonshudo: +2 Nihonshudo: +2 Water: Sakura Shimizu Yeast: Brewery's original own Yeast: Brewery's original own Koshinohana “Kouen” Hanahato "Shiori" Kamezake Nechi 2007 Aged 8 years Shirakawago 越の華 好縁(甕酒) 根知 華鳩 しおり 貴醸酒 "Sasanigori" 純米大吟醸 純米吟醸 純米酒 白川郷 Class: Junmai-Daiginjo Class: Junmai-Ginjo Class: Junmai-Shu ささにごり酒 Rice polish rate: 50% 純米吟醸 Rice polish rate: 55% Rice polish rate: 65% Origin: Niigata Origin: Niigata Origin: Hiroshima Rice: Yamada Nishiki Rice: Gohyakumangoku Ittou Rice: Nakateshinsenbon Class: Junmai-Ginjo Water: Katsurashimizu 16.5% Alc/Vol 16.8% Alc/Vol Rice polish rate: 60% 14.2% Alc/Vol Acidity: 1.6 Acidity: 3.5 Origin: Gifu Acidity: 1.7 Amino Acidity: 1.0 Amino Acidity: 3.0 Rice: Gohyakumangoku Amino Acidity: 1.5 Nihonshudo: +3 Nihonshudo: -44 15.3% Alc/Vol Nihonshudo: +0 Yeast: G9 (Niigata Jozoshikenjyou) Yeast: Kyokai9 Acidity: 1.2 Yeast: Brewery's original own _________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ THE MASAHIKO IGA SAKE EXPERIENCE - Fifth Edition 4
Sake Ingredients Water Pure water is a very important ingredient in Sake making. Nada and Fushimi have clean water and are traditionaly well known. Nada creates a dry style Sake with acidity (called Otoko-sake) while Fushimi makes softer clearer tasting Sake with fragrance (Onna-sake). Water hardness Born "Chogin" is one of the reasons why Sake can be so diffrent. Sake yeast works diffrently depending on the amount of 梵 超吟 Junmai-Daiginjo mineral in the water. Iron is an especially unsuitable This sake is made from best element for producing good sake. ranked sake rice. The rice farm certified as A-rank (it's the equivalent of a Grand Cru vineyard). Small & Slim Large & Round More than 300 Less Fat & Protein Table Sake kinds 100 appointed Rice Koshihikari Rice Yamadanishiki Rice Sasanishiki Akita Komachi Gohyakumangoku Miyamanishiki Large grained rice which contains a large size clouded white colour part in the centre is good for sake making because it allows the koji mould (Aspergillus oryzae) to 兵庫県特 A 地区 “A-rank” rice penetrate the rice and also is more soluble making the field in Hyogo yeasts job easier. (Yamadanishiki) _________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ THE MASAHIKO IGA SAKE EXPERIENCE - Fifth Edition 5
Sake Grades Special Designation Sake Normal The rice is milled Sake down to at least Jyunmai-Daiginjo Daiginjo 50% 純米大吟醸酒 大吟醸酒 Jyunmai-Ginjo The rice is milled 純米吟醸酒 Ginjo down to at least 70% of total 吟醸酒 sake 60% Tokubetsu-Jyunmai 特別純米酒 Tokubetsu-Honjyozo productions 特別本醸造酒 The rice is milled down to at least Honjyozo 70% 本醸造酒 Jyunmai Other 純米酒 Futsu- Shu Rice + Water + Yeast + Mould Rice + Water + Yeast + Mould 普通酒 + No Additives + Distilled alcohol (less than 10% of rice weight) 10% of total sake productions _________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ THE MASAHIKO IGA SAKE EXPERIENCE - Fifth Edition 6
Step 1: Rice Milling Mineral, protein and fat are good food for yeast upto a point. When yeast get too much nutriment, they make unwanted taste and smell in Sake. As with wine production, yeast sometimes need some stress to make fragrance and elegance. Well polished rice makes cleaner tasting Sake. Traditionally Japanese dishes are very delicate with great importance placed on the freshness and quality of the ingredients. Pure sake really lift up Umami in such delicate dishes as well. Answer for the blind tasting Japanese often use Sake for cooking to enhance Umami and reduce unwanted smell. (I will explain 1 2 3 how you can choose Sake for cooking.) Nowadays serious sake maker using the latest technology can polish rice to over 20%. It takes more than 100 hours, because rice will be damaged if there is too much frictional heat. Quality rice is soft making it difficulty to polish without cracking. Polished rice should be rested for at least 1 month to get back right natural Dassai Dassai Dassai moisture slowly. "Niwarisanbu" "Sanwarikubu" "50" The milled powder produced as a by-product of The rice is milled The rice is milled The rice is milled the polishing process is used in many products. For example this can be used for quality Japanese down to 23% down to 39% down to 50% rice crackers. _________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ THE MASAHIKO IGA SAKE EXPERIENCE - Fifth Edition 7
Step 2: Washing & Steaming Polished rice can quickly absorb water, so washing and soaking must be handled very carefully. Timing is essential as only a few seconds makes significant differences. Dassai Brewery uses more than 762000kg of rice a year. They still wash and care for the rice by hand because the condition of the rice varies depending on season, weather, quality and polished rate etc... machines cannot handle such detailed caring. By steaming the rice you control how the rice will be melt in Moromi (liquid, rice and yeast in fermenting process). If the rice melts too quickly in the Moromi, it will not be good Sake. Hard outside and soft inside is the best steamed sake rice. _________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ THE MASAHIKO IGA SAKE EXPERIENCE - Fifth Edition 8
Step 3: Koji-mai Making One of the most important processes in sake making is growing Koji mould on the rice. Koji mould creates many kind of enzymes. These enzymes change starch to glucose. This process significantly affect sake quality and how much umami and amino acid Sake can contain. _________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ THE MASAHIKO IGA SAKE EXPERIENCE - Fifth Edition 9
Step 4: Fermentation Yeast live comfortably if it's warm and they will only produce alcohol from glucose, not fragrance or Umami. Toji (Sake master) always look after moromi, temperature control is especially important. Traditionally sake making was in winter, but now with the assistance of refrigeration many breweries do all season sake making. Fermentation normally takes about a month. Daishichi "Minowamon" 大七 箕輪門 Junmai-Daiginjo This brewery follows very traditional style to make shubo (foundation of moromi). Not adding lacto-acid but naturally grows them. _________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ THE MASAHIKO IGA SAKE EXPERIENCE - Fifth Edition 10
Step 5: Pressing After the fermentation finishes, Sake is still white and cloudy with lots of suspended sediment. Yabuta "pressing Machine" is commonly used for making Sake clear by pressing. Yabuta Method Shirakawago "Sasanigori" Unfiltered sake Centrifuge Method A centrifuge machine used for Juyondai separating completed sake from "Shichitare Nijitkan" the lees. Not pressing moromi by machine. Put Moromi into coarse cloth bag and hang it. Sake will slowly drop then only these drops are bottled. It is called "Tobindori". _________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ THE MASAHIKO IGA SAKE EXPERIENCE - Fifth Edition 11
Step 6: Pasteurize, Bottling and Aging Traditionally pasteurization was done in early April by heating up. Now technology allows makers to pasteurize sake in its bottle. This allows the sake to retain all its important components in the bottle. Juyondai "Shichitare Nijitkan" This is un-pasteurized sake. It's called “Nama-sake". Hanahato "Shiori" Most sake should be drunk when fresh. This sake is made for cellar development and is aged more than 8 years. _________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ THE MASAHIKO IGA SAKE EXPERIENCE - Fifth Edition 12
Edited by Masahiko Iga Special thanks to: Certified Kiki-sake-shi (Sake Sommelier) Certified Sommelier (Court of Master Sommeliers) Sommelier Australia Certified Japanese Chef www.sommeliers.com.au Postal address: GPO Box 1125, Melbourne VIC 3001 Australia Asahi Shuzo (Dassai) Email: winefoodaustralia@gmail.com www.asahishuzo.ne.jp Katoukichibee Shouten (Born) www.born.co.jp Daishichi Sake Brewery (Daishichi) www.daishichi.com Japan Prestige Sake Association www.meimonshu.jp Evan Milne Susannah Lavery Laurence Mahony Kunihiro Kizu Daigo Arae Thank you. 187 king Street Melbourne VIC 3000 Australia www.hanabishi.com.au Copyright©Masahiko Iga. All right reserved. hanabishi@iinet.net.au _________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ THE MASAHIKO IGA SAKE EXPERIENCE - Fifth Edition 13
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