The Masahiko Iga Sake Experience with Special Japanese Cuisine by Akio Soga -

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NOVEMBER 2010

     The Masahiko Iga Sake Experience
        with   Special Japanese Cuisine by
                      Akio Soga
                                                                       酒

HANABISHI Japanese Restaurant, 187 King Street Melbourne VIC 3000 Australia
Thank you for joining us for our sake dinner tonight.
                                                                                                         I'm so glad to have such well respected industry

          INDEX                                                                                          leaders here at Hanabishi.

                                                                                                         As background to this evening, I visited Japan and
                                                                                                         joined a first-ranked
                                                                                                                  first        sake brewer to learn more about
                                                                                                         the sake making process.
                                                                                                                           pro      It was a fantastic experience
                                                                                                         and I learned many secret tips for the making of
                                                                                                         quality sake. The staffs at the brewery were very
                                                                                                         generous with me and kindly understood my passion
                                                                                                         for introducing real Japanese culture to Australia.

                                                                                                         It is a great pleasure
                                                                                                                       p        to share my sake experience and
                                                                                                         some exceptionally rare and high quality sakes with
                                                                                                         you. I do not want to say that these premium sake
                                    Today's Menu ...................................
                                                 ..................................................03    will always have the best taste but I would like to
                                                                                                         show you these sakes because I think it's good to see
                                    Today's Sake ................................
                                                 ...................................................04
                                                                                                         what theth currently top rated sake in Japan look like.
                                                                                                         Let’s call it professional curiosity.
                                    Sake Ingredients .............................
                                                     .............................................05
                                                                                                         I have only included the very basic information about
                                    Sake Grades ....................................................06
                                                                                                         Sake in this booklet. Please feel free to ask me
                                                                                                         questions for more details of Sake making anytime in
                                    Step 1: Rice Milling ...........................
                                                         ..........................................07
                                                                                                         this dinner
                                                                                                              dinne or indeed at anytime in the future.
                                    Step 2: Washing & Steaming ...........
                                                               ..........................08
                                                                                                         Thanks to Akio our owner chef, I can match these top
                                    Step 3: Koji
                                            Koji-mai Making .................................09          ranking sake with food because Akio's Japanese food
                                                                                                         is also real. I believe this is a great opportunity to
                                    Step 4: Fermentation .......................
                                                         .......................................10       show you a great Japanese dining experience.

                                    Step 5: Pressing .................................
                                                     ...............................................11   I hope you enjoy our fantastic Japanese food & Sake
                                                                                                         dinner. Your success and contribution to our industry
                                    Step 6: Pasteurize, Bottling and Aging …
                                                                           ….........12                  always
                                                                                                             ays encourage me. In the same way I hope that my
                                                                                                         efforts tonight encourage you. Thank you very much,
                                    Special Thanks ..................................
                                                   ................................................13    everyone. All the best to you.

                                                                                                         Masahiko Iga
                                                                                                         General Manager,
                                                                                                                 Manager HANABISHI
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                                                                                    THE MASAHIKO IGA SAKE EXPERIENCE - Fifth Edition 2
Today's Menu                                                                                                                 Aperitifs - Blind Tasting

       Japanese Style Pure Corn Soup                                                                           白川郷 ささにごり酒
                                                                                                                   ささにごり酒      Shirakawago "Sasanigori"
       No sugar or any amount of cream is added. Richness and sweetness purely come from corn itself.
                                                                                                                                         純米吟醸 Jyunmai-Ginjo
       …………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………..
       Traditional Tasting Plate                                                                                                    梵 超吟 Born "Chogin"
       A selection of Japanese appetizers
                                                                                                                                     純米大吟醸 Jyunmai-Daiginjo
       …………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………..
       Sashimi on Ice - Chef's best selection                                                                                             根知 2007 Nechi
       Exquisite fresh raw fish, selected by our specialists                                                                            純米吟醸 Jyunmai-Ginjo
       …………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………..
       Sugi-
       Sugi-ita Yaki                                                                                                    大七 箕輪門    Daishichi "Minowamon"
       Oven Grilled Patagonian Tooth Fish wrapped in aromatic cedar wood
                                                                                                                                     純米大吟醸 Jyunmai-Daiginjo
        …………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………..
       Barramundi Shiogama-
                  Shiogama-yaki                                                                            十四代 七垂二十貫       Juyondai "Shichitare Nijitkan"
       Fresh water Barramundi with Yuzu citrus cooked in salt kiln
                                                                                                                                         純米吟醸 Jyunmai-Ginjo
       …………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………..
       Wagyu Beef Japanese Style Steak                                  Koshinohana "Kouen"                           越の華 好縁 甕酒
       Finest Wagyu selected by owner chef, official quality rating of 9+ marble score                                               純米大吟醸 Jyunmai-Daiginjo
                                                                                                      ……………………………………………………………………………………………………
           Rice, Miso Soup and Pickles
                                                                                                                    大七 純米きもと
                                                                                                                       純米きもと
                                                                                                                      Daishichi "Jyunmai Kimoto"
           Shiny beautiful rice from Japan. Aka-dashi miso soup made from mixed miso of our Selection.
           Good foods with Rice, Miso, Pickles & warm Sake. This is proper and most peaceful meal style of Japan.                          純米酒 Jyunmai-Shu
       …………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………..
       Dessert Platter - Hanabishi Deluxe                       Hanahato "Shiori" Aged 8 years           華鳩 醞 貴醸酒
       Assortment of 100% pure homemade desserts                                                                                        純米吟醸 Jyunmai-Ginjo
       Fresh ice creams and sorbets made with the latest technology “Pacojet”

        Owner Chef, Akio Soga

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                                                                                    THE MASAHIKO IGA SAKE EXPERIENCE - Fifth Edition 3
Today's Sake
                                      Dassai                   Dassai                      Dassai                                                        Born "Chogin"
                                      "Niwarisanbu"            "Sanwarikyubu" "50"                                                                       梵 超吟
                                      獺祭                       獺祭                          獺祭                                                            純米大吟醸
                                      磨き二割三分                   磨き三割九分                      50                                                            Class: Junmai-Daiginjo

                                      純米大吟醸                    純米大吟醸                       純米大吟醸                                                         Rice polish rate: 21%
                                                                                                                                                         Origin: Fukui
                                      Class: Junmai-Daiginjo   Class: Junmai-Daiginjo      Class: Junmai-Daiginjo                                        Rice: Yamada-Nishiki (Hyogo
                                      Rice polish rate: 23%    Rice polish rate: 39%       Rice polish rate: 50%                                         A-Rank)
                                      Origin: Yamaguchi        Origin: Yamaguchi           Origin: Yamaguchi                                             16% Alc/Vol
                                      Rice: Yamada-Nishiki     Rice: Yamada-Nishiki        Rice: Yamada-Nishiki                                          Acidity: 1.7
                                      16-17% Alc/Vol           16-17% Alc/Vol              16% Alc/Vol                                                   Nihonshudo: +2
                                      Acidity: 1.1             Acidity: 1.3                Acidity: 1.1                                                  Yeast: KATO9 (Brewery's
                                      Nihonshudo: +5           Nihonshudo: +5              Nihonshudo: +5                                                original own)

                     Juyondai                                                      Daishichi                                     Daishichi
                     "Shichitare                                                   "Minowamon"                                   "Jyunmai Kimoto"
                     Nijitkan"                                                     大七 箕輪門                                        大七 純米きもと
                     十四代 七垂二十貫                                                     純米大吟醸                                         純米酒
                     純米大吟醸                                                         Class: Junmai-Daiginjo
                                                                                   Rice polish rate: 50%
                                                                                                                                 Class: Junmai-Shu
                                                                                                                                 Rice polish rate: 65%
                     Class: Junmai-Daiginjo
                                                                                   Origin: Fukushima                             Origin: Fukushima
                     Rice polish rate: 40%
                                                                                   Rice: Yamada-Nishiki                          Rice: Gohyakumangoku
                     Origin: Yamagata
                                                                                   15% Alc/Vol                                   15% Alc/Vol
                     Rice: Aiyama
                                                                                   Acidity: 1.4                                  Acidity: 1.5
                     16% Alc/Vol
                                                                                   Nihonshudo: +2                                Nihonshudo: +2
                     Water: Sakura Shimizu
                                                                                   Yeast: Brewery's original own                 Yeast: Brewery's original own

                                                                                                                                                       Koshinohana “Kouen”
                                                                Hanahato "Shiori"                                                                      Kamezake
              Nechi 2007                                        Aged 8 years                                        Shirakawago                        越の華 好縁(甕酒)
              根知                                                華鳩 しおり 貴醸酒                                          "Sasanigori"                       純米大吟醸
              純米吟醸                                              純米酒                                                 白川郷                                Class: Junmai-Daiginjo
              Class: Junmai-Ginjo                               Class: Junmai-Shu                                   ささにごり酒                             Rice polish rate: 50%

                                                                                                                    純米吟醸
              Rice polish rate: 55%                             Rice polish rate: 65%                                                                  Origin: Niigata
              Origin: Niigata                                   Origin: Hiroshima                                                                      Rice: Yamada Nishiki
              Rice: Gohyakumangoku Ittou                        Rice: Nakateshinsenbon                              Class: Junmai-Ginjo                Water: Katsurashimizu
              16.5% Alc/Vol                                     16.8% Alc/Vol                                       Rice polish rate: 60%              14.2% Alc/Vol
              Acidity: 1.6                                      Acidity: 3.5                                        Origin: Gifu                       Acidity: 1.7
              Amino Acidity: 1.0                                Amino Acidity: 3.0                                  Rice: Gohyakumangoku               Amino Acidity: 1.5
              Nihonshudo: +3                                    Nihonshudo: -44                                     15.3% Alc/Vol                      Nihonshudo: +0
              Yeast: G9 (Niigata Jozoshikenjyou)                Yeast: Kyokai9                                      Acidity: 1.2                       Yeast: Brewery's original own
_________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
                                                                                    THE MASAHIKO IGA SAKE EXPERIENCE - Fifth Edition 4
Sake Ingredients
                                     Water
                                     Pure water is a very important ingredient in Sake making.
                                     Nada and Fushimi have clean water and are traditionaly
                                     well known. Nada creates a dry style Sake with acidity
                                     (called Otoko-sake) while Fushimi makes softer clearer
                                     tasting Sake with fragrance (Onna-sake). Water hardness
                                                                                                           Born "Chogin"
                                     is one of the reasons why Sake can be so diffrent. Sake
                                     yeast works diffrently depending on the amount of
                                                                                                                  梵 超吟
                                                                                                               Junmai-Daiginjo
                                     mineral in the water. Iron is an especially unsuitable
                                                                                                         This sake is made from best
                                     element for producing good sake.                                          ranked sake rice.
                                                                                                           The rice farm certified as
                                                                                                        A-rank (it's the equivalent of a
                                                                                                             Grand Cru vineyard).

                                     Small & Slim                              Large & Round
                                     More than 300                             Less Fat & Protein
                    Table                                    Sake
                                     kinds                                     100 appointed
                     Rice            Koshihikari             Rice              Yamadanishiki

     Rice                            Sasanishiki
                                     Akita Komachi
                                                                               Gohyakumangoku
                                                                               Miyamanishiki

       Large grained rice which contains a large size clouded
       white colour part in the centre is good for sake making
       because it allows the koji mould (Aspergillus oryzae) to
                                                                          兵庫県特 A 地区
                                                                          “A-rank” rice
       penetrate the rice and also is more soluble making the
                                                                          field in Hyogo
       yeasts job easier.
                                                                          (Yamadanishiki)

_________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
                                                                                    THE MASAHIKO IGA SAKE EXPERIENCE - Fifth Edition 5
Sake Grades
                                            Special Designation Sake                                             Normal
       The rice is milled
                                                                                                                  Sake
       down to at least                Jyunmai-Daiginjo
                                                                                       Daiginjo
        50%
                                           純米大吟醸酒
                                                                                       大吟醸酒

                                         Jyunmai-Ginjo
       The rice is milled                    純米吟醸酒                                      Ginjo
       down to at least                                                                                         70% of total
                                                                                        吟醸酒
                                                                                                                   sake
        60%                           Tokubetsu-Jyunmai
                                             特別純米酒                       Tokubetsu-Honjyozo                     productions
                                                                                  特別本醸造酒

       The rice is milled
       down to at least                                                                Honjyozo

        70%
                                                                                       本醸造酒

                                              Jyunmai
       Other                                   純米酒
                                                                                                                   Futsu-
                                                                                                                    Shu
                                  Rice + Water + Yeast + Mould          Rice + Water + Yeast + Mould               普通酒
                                           + No Additives               + Distilled alcohol (less than 10% of
                                                                        rice weight)
                                    10% of total sake productions

_________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
                                                                                    THE MASAHIKO IGA SAKE EXPERIENCE - Fifth Edition 6
Step 1: Rice Milling

      Mineral, protein and fat are good food for yeast
      upto a point. When yeast get too much nutriment,
      they make unwanted taste and smell in Sake. As
      with wine production, yeast sometimes need
      some stress to make fragrance and elegance.
      Well polished rice makes cleaner tasting Sake.
      Traditionally Japanese dishes are very delicate
      with great importance placed on the freshness
      and quality of the ingredients. Pure sake really lift
      up Umami in such delicate dishes as well.
                                                              Answer for the blind tasting
      Japanese often use Sake for cooking to enhance
      Umami and reduce unwanted smell. (I will explain
                                                               1                      2                       3
      how you can choose Sake for cooking.)
      Nowadays serious sake maker using the latest
      technology can polish rice to over 20%. It takes
      more than 100 hours, because rice will be
      damaged if there is too much frictional heat.
      Quality rice is soft making it difficulty to polish
      without cracking. Polished rice should be rested
      for at least 1 month to get back right natural                Dassai                  Dassai                 Dassai
      moisture slowly.                                          "Niwarisanbu"          "Sanwarikubu"                 "50"
      The milled powder produced as a by-product of             The rice is milled      The rice is milled     The rice is milled

      the polishing process is used in many products.
      For example this can be used for quality Japanese
                                                                down to   23%          down to   39%           down to   50%
      rice crackers.

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                                                                                    THE MASAHIKO IGA SAKE EXPERIENCE - Fifth Edition 7
Step 2: Washing & Steaming

        Polished rice can quickly absorb water, so washing and soaking must be handled very carefully. Timing is essential as only a
        few seconds makes significant differences. Dassai Brewery uses more than 762000kg of rice a year. They still wash and
        care for the rice by hand because the condition of the rice varies depending on season, weather, quality and polished rate
        etc... machines cannot handle such detailed caring.
        By steaming the rice you control how the rice will be melt in Moromi (liquid, rice and yeast in fermenting process). If the rice
        melts too quickly in the Moromi, it will not be good Sake. Hard outside and soft inside is the best steamed sake rice.

_________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
                                                                                    THE MASAHIKO IGA SAKE EXPERIENCE - Fifth Edition 8
Step 3: Koji-mai Making
          One of the most important processes in sake making is growing Koji mould
          on the rice. Koji mould creates many kind of enzymes. These enzymes
          change starch to glucose. This process significantly affect sake quality and
          how much umami and amino acid Sake can contain.

_________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
                                                                                    THE MASAHIKO IGA SAKE EXPERIENCE - Fifth Edition 9
Step 4: Fermentation                                                    Yeast live comfortably if it's warm and they will only
                                                                               produce alcohol from glucose, not fragrance or
                                                                               Umami.
                                                                               Toji (Sake master) always look after moromi,
                                                                               temperature control is especially important.
                                                                               Traditionally sake making was in winter, but now
                                                                               with the assistance of refrigeration many breweries
                                                                               do all season sake making.
                                                                               Fermentation normally takes about a month.

                                                                                                                    Daishichi
                                                                                                                 "Minowamon"
                                                                                                                    大七 箕輪門
                                                                                                                    Junmai-Daiginjo

                                                                                                               This brewery follows very
                                                                                                               traditional style to make
                                                                                                                 shubo (foundation of
                                                                                                             moromi). Not adding lacto-acid
                                                                                                               but naturally grows them.

_________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
                                                                                   THE MASAHIKO IGA SAKE EXPERIENCE - Fifth Edition 10
Step 5: Pressing
        After the fermentation finishes, Sake is still white and cloudy with lots of suspended sediment.
        Yabuta "pressing Machine" is commonly used for making Sake clear by pressing.

        Yabuta Method
                                                                                                               Shirakawago
                                                                                                                "Sasanigori"

                                                                                                                  Unfiltered sake

        Centrifuge Method

        A centrifuge machine used for
                                                                                                                  Juyondai
        separating completed sake from                                                                     "Shichitare Nijitkan"
        the lees.
                                                                                                              Not pressing moromi by
                                                                                                             machine. Put Moromi into
                                                                                                            coarse cloth bag and hang it.
                                                                                                           Sake will slowly drop then only
                                                                                                              these drops are bottled.
                                                                                                               It is called "Tobindori".

_________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
                                                                                   THE MASAHIKO IGA SAKE EXPERIENCE - Fifth Edition 11
Step 6: Pasteurize, Bottling
      and Aging
       Traditionally pasteurization was done in early April by heating up. Now technology allows
       makers to pasteurize sake in its bottle. This allows the sake to retain all its important
       components in the bottle.

                                                                                                                Juyondai
                                                                                                          "Shichitare Nijitkan"

                                                                                                         This is un-pasteurized sake. It's
                                                                                                               called “Nama-sake".

                                                                                                                 Hanahato
                                                                                                                  "Shiori"

                                                                                                           Most sake should be drunk
                                                                                                          when fresh. This sake is made
                                                                                                          for cellar development and is
                                                                                                             aged more than 8 years.

_________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
                                                                                   THE MASAHIKO IGA SAKE EXPERIENCE - Fifth Edition 12
Edited by Masahiko Iga
           Special thanks to:
                                                                                               Certified Kiki-sake-shi (Sake Sommelier)
                                                                                               Certified Sommelier (Court of Master Sommeliers)
             Sommelier Australia                                                               Certified Japanese Chef
               www.sommeliers.com.au                                                           Postal address: GPO Box 1125,
                                                                                               Melbourne VIC 3001 Australia
             Asahi Shuzo (Dassai)
                                                                                               Email: winefoodaustralia@gmail.com
                www.asahishuzo.ne.jp
             Katoukichibee Shouten (Born)
                www.born.co.jp
             Daishichi Sake Brewery (Daishichi)
                www.daishichi.com
              Japan Prestige Sake Association
                www.meimonshu.jp

              Evan Milne
              Susannah Lavery
              Laurence Mahony
              Kunihiro Kizu
              Daigo Arae

                                                                                                      Thank you.
                                                                                                     187 king Street Melbourne VIC 3000 Australia
                                                                                                     www.hanabishi.com.au
      Copyright©Masahiko Iga. All right reserved.
                                                                                                     hanabishi@iinet.net.au
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                                                                                   THE MASAHIKO IGA SAKE EXPERIENCE - Fifth Edition 13
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