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SEP T EMBER 2 0 2 0
W HER EROME . C OM ROME CITY GUIDE
®
ROME
IS READY TO
welcome you!
ALL YOU CAN DO
IN THE CITY
SUMMER TIPS ON
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CULTURE AND DINING
GET A TOUR OF THE
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IN ITALY
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YOUR TRAVEL ING COMPANION SINCE 1936®
Letter fromINthe
BENVENUTI Staff
ITALIA where
YOUR TRAVEL ING COMPANION
where
YOUR TRAVEL
M AING
® SINCE 1936®
YOUR TRAVEL ING COMPANION SINCE 1936®
®
G A COMPANION SINCE 1936® WELCOME TO ITALY
where Milan
Z I N E ®
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Letter from
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Staff M A G A Z I N E
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M A G A Z I N E
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As we are sure you are well aware, due to the spread of the Coronavirus, all WWW.WHERETRAVELER.COM
WWW.WHEREROME.COM
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as of 10 March 2020, extending at least to 3 April. In addition,
of Italy, including Rome, has been placed under severe travel restrictions all museums, WWW.WHERETRAVELER.COM
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TOURIST Sette Chiese,
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concerts, plays, Il settore
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events, ha sofferto
performances, piùanddi tutti
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Danilo Brunetti
ADVERTISING & CIRCULATION
The recent pandemic has severely affected one of the linchpins of the
have been cancelled. SALES & MARKETING COORDINATOR
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PUBLISHER AND EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
haveare
We been cancelled.
hopeful that by 3recente
della April these travel restrictions
pandemia. I lockdown,will have been
le chiusure Danilo
SALES &Brunetti
MARKETING COORDINATOR
Andrea Jarach
global economy – the tourism industry. The current lockdown, closing
Danilo
ACCOUNTBrunetti
AND CIRCULATION DEPARTMENT
d.brunetti@touristmedia.it
lifted,
We arethe sites and
hopeful thatevents will these
by 3 April be up travel
and running, andwill
restrictions thehave
city will
been andrea.jarach@proedimedia.com
M.Angela di Pietro of borders and drop in available revenue at the time of writing this
dei confini, il crollo delrestrictions
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We
Andrea
Danilo are
embrace hopeful
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Brunetti that
beloved by 3 April
travelers these
once travel
again. With faith
lifted, the sites and events will be up and running, and the city in will
that have been
eventuality,
will we ACCOUNT AND CIRCULATION DEPARTMENT
wheremark@touristmedia.it
COO
M.Angela
ACCOUNT AND di Pietro
Pierfrancesco CIRCULATION DEPARTMENT
Coreno editorial could be very depressing, but remember we’re talking about
lifted,
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have
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our events
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2020 be
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its beloved travelers once again. With faith in that eventuality, wewill
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ADVERTISING di Pietro
DEPARTMENT
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Where ® ®
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embrace itsof
beloved travelers once again. Rachele Renna, Pino di Persio, Enzo Danza, MILANO LOVES YOU
Italy: a favourite destination of travelers for centuries. Throughout
asWith faith in that eventuality,
will we
Where
at theproduced
time publishing, we cannot know what the next month wheremark@touristmedia.it
have ourdepressione.
April 2020 issue,
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stiamo we do
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parlando Naturally,
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Rita De
MANAGINGLillo, Filly
EDITOR di Somma, Antonio Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II
have
bring, produced
and we our April
therefore 2020
cannot issue, just
guarantee as we
that do
the
at the time of publishing, we cannot know what the next month willevery month.
events and Naturally,
exhibits Rachele
ADVERTISING
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Alessandra FinziPino di Persio, Enzo Danza,
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history, our country has been affected by war, famine and epidemics,
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and we thereforegocannot
on scheduled.
guarantee events and exhibits ROME
Rita De Lillo, FillyDEPARTMENT/PRODUCTION
EDITORIAL
Benedetti di Somma, Antonio
bring, and we therefore cannot guarantee that the events and exhibits and each time it has risen from the ashes to once again become the
listed
guerre, in this issue
carestie, will goeon
epidemie as scheduled.
infinite volte tornata ad essere il Paese più Benedetti
EDITOR IN CHIEF DEPARTMENT/PRODUCTION
CONTRIBUTORS
ROME EDITORIAL
listed
We in this
thank youissue will go on as scheduled.
for understanding and we appreciate your continued M.Angela
ROME Di Pietro
CareyEDITORIAL
Bernitz, Simona P.K. Daviddi, Floriana most desirable tourist destination in the world.
EDITOR IN CHIEF DEPARTMENT/PRODUCTION
desiderato al Italy.
mondo. di Maio, Elisabetta Giudici, Joy Lacanlale,
whereadmini@touristmedia.it
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We thank you for understanding and we appreciate your continued M.Angela Di Pietro
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M.Angela MANAGER
Di Pietro
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We thankofyou
support for understanding and we appreciate your continued
Italy. Chiara Zaccarelli
Federico Schiaffino
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EDITORIAL MANAGER Every night is followed by a new dawn, and if you look carefully you
support
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Dopo ogni notte ci sarà una alba, e a ben guardare i segni possono Archivio Schiaffino
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EDITORE: PROEDI COMUNICAZIONE SRL - ISCRIZIONE AL ROC N. 2455
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6 W H E R E R O M E I A P R I L 2020 CHAIRMAN William S. Morris III Rome
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PRESIDENT & CEO William S. Morris IV
6 W H E R E R O M E I A P R I L 2020
6 W H E R E R O M E I A P R I L 2020
WHERE NOW | HOT DATES
BANKSY
FOUR FROM TUESDAY 8
Works of the most famous “unknown” artist in the
SEASONS BALLET world go on exhibit this month in the delightfully
HOT
FROM TUESDAY 22 TO SUNDAY 27
contrasting venue of the Chiostro del Bramante,
Fresh off the success of their sold-out
a marvel of Renaissance architecture. Banksy – A
summer performances in the Circus Maximus,
Visual Protest presents more than 90 works, narrating
the modern ballet The Four Seasons will be getting
Banksy’s unique vision, expressed through irony,
an encore at Teatro Costanzi. Versatile creator
denunciation, politics, intelligence, and, most
Giuliano Peparini is responsible for choreography,
pointedly, protest. From Love is in the Air to Girl with
direction, and video in this modern masterpiece,
Balloon; from Queen Vic to Napalm, Toxic Mary, and
DATES
which tells the story of the four “seasons” of love:
HMV, the works on display create a fascinating
from the first shy glances of spring (Rebecca
representation of Banksy’s direct and provocative
Bianchi and Claudio Cocino, pictured), to the
artistic language. chiostrodelbramante.it
fires of passion in summer (Marianna Suriano and
Giacomo Castellana), the gradual decadence of
autumn (Susanna Salvie and Michele Satriano), to the
bitter end in winter (Sara Loro and Alessio Rezza).
Interpreting the work is the Ballet Corps of the
Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, to the
accompaniment of Antonio Vivaldi’s
eponymous composition.
operaroma.it
September
From modern ballet to world-famous street art,
from multicultural folk music to outdoor
contemporary art installations, September is
serving up an exciting program of events you’ll
have to see to believe. IL MURO DEL CANTO
TUESDAY 8
Italian folk rock band Il Muro del Canto performs live in the evocative outdoor setting of the Cavea of the Auditorium Parco della
Musica. With a rough and intense sound, the group combines modernity and tradition in an authentic and timeless voice. Their
latest album, L’Amore Mio Non More, maintains their distinctive traits while, at the same time, introducing numerous rhythmic and
harmonic innovations. The band’s search for a direct and pure language continues, strengthened by a strong Roman dialectical
AFTER – THE GARDENS OF THE influence, which clearly emerges in the album’s title with a passionate and stubborn declaration of intent. auditorium.com
PHILHARMONIC
FROM THURSDAY 10 TO TUESDAY 22
The international outdoor concert series of the Roman
Philharmonic Academy, usually performed in June and July, BACK TO NATURE
has been moved to the very tail end of summer this year,
FROM TUESDAY 15
and will in fact culminate on the autumnal equinox. AFteR, Villa Borghese, Rome’s most celebrated public park, explodes with
a clear reference to the aftermath of the unprecedented contemporary art in their new Back to Nature outdoor exhibition. The
lockdown of the entire country this past spring, will see beloved historic park will host a core of installations among the trees,
musicians from around the world come together to each one either designed or specially reinvented for the occasion.
interpret classical and folk music from their respective Discover fascinating works by internationally renowned artists such as
cultures in a lush green space near Piazza del Popolo. This Andreco, Mario Merz, Mimmo Paladino, Benedetto Pietromarchi, Davide
year’s edition features artists from Iran, Japan, India, and Rivalta, Grazia Toderi, Edoardo Tresoldi, and Nico Vascellari. Occasional
the Balkan states, presenting a stimulating comparison musical performances and street artist interventions will accompany the
between cultures and a continuous mutual exchange of installations in a harmonious dialogue between art and nature. The best
knowledge. filarmonicaromana.org part? Admission is free!
2 W H E R E R O M E I S E P T E M B E R 2 020 www.wheretraveler.com 3
4 W H E R E R O M E I S E P T E M B E R 2020 4 W H E R E R O M E I J U N E 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 5
WHERE NOW | GRAND TOUR
The very famous Chianti zone, are the best in the world. Apropos of coffee,
renowned for its vineyards, there’s a tradition that sums up the city better
verdant valleys, rows of cypresses, than a thousand words: the Neapolitans call it
STROLLING THROUGH THE CITY
olives groves, towns and abbeys “caffè appeso” and it involves buying a coffee
built on hilltops, is around for yourself, and then purchasing another
originally covered the Colosseum. They
half an hour by car from the one for someone else who doesn’t have the
were ‘recycled’ to build several historic
centre of Florence. money to pay for it.
Roman buildings including the Basilica
Naples is the ideal starting point to explore
of St. Peter’s and Palazzo Barberini.
the other beauties of Italy: the islands of the
archipelago, Capri, Ischia and Procida, and
the Amalfi Coast infused with the scent of Florence
lemons. There is also Pompeii, the city, buried How can one describe a city which
by layers of volcanic ash during the eruption originated in the Renaissance in just a few
of Vesuvius two thousand years ago, and one words? It’s impossible! The only solution
of the most incredible archaeological sites in Venice is to visit the Duomo or Santa Croce, the
the world. masterpieces housed in the Uffizi, the
Tuscany Venice Ponte Vecchio or Piazza della Signoria,
Michelangelo’s “David” or Palazzo Pitti. It
Matera, the hidden pearl With canals in the place of streets, and is really no surprise that the entire city
of the South boats instead of cars, Venice, the city is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Since
of a thousand bridges, spectacular there is not one centimeter that is not
When it became the European capital of facades, and breathtaking views, offers a worthy visiting, we strongly suggest that
culture in 2019, Materia has got the visibility dreamlike vision. This romantic city par you make time to lose yourself amidst
it deserved. Matera was founded in the dark excellence, has a wealth of historic and its art and architecture, its history and its
ages, and is one of the most intriguing places artistic treasures that would be difficult landscapes. There’s just one thing that
in Southern Italy, renowned, above all, for the to find in any country other than Italy. you need to remember: this is the place
uniqueness of it charming historic centre. Its To enjoy them to the fullest, climb to where Stendhal experienced what was
so-called ‘Sassi’ (cave dwellings) are houses, the top of St. Mark’s bell tower, or the later to become known as the Stendhal
churches and, now, even hotels, literally carved lesser known spiral staircase of Palazzo syndrome…
into the tufa stone. Lying one on top of the Contarini del Bovolo, and let your gaze
other, they overhang a gorge to create an wander over the lagoon.
incredible nativity-like scenario. Located just
a few kilometers from the beaches of Puglia,
the city is well worth a visit. In addition to the
Rome
Sassi, it includes a Romanesque cathedral, the Fifteen square kilometers and twenty-
Convent of Sant’Agostino, the church of San five-thousand attractions: Rome’s
Matera Portofino historic centre has been a UNESCO
Giovanni Battista and the Baroque church of
San Francesco. Located off the beaten tourist world heritage site since 1980. A symbol
track, Matera has often been used as a film among symbols and the most widely
times, this beautiful coastal village has been There’s Siena, with its unmistakable square. northern Tuscany. It is here that the majority
set. In 2003, thanks to its arresting landscapes photographed monument in the world,
a highly sought-after holiday destination. There’s San Gimignano with its sixteen towers of the area’s most fashionable seaside resorts Florence
and timeless atmosphere, Mel Gibson the Colosseum is considered one of
And, even now, with its ‘piazzetta’, Portofino and Pisa, whose one and only tower is unique are located. The summer getaway for the rich
chose Matera to re-create the biblical city of the 7 wonders of the modern world.
is a reference point for international tourism. throughout the world. Ultimately, there and famous including financiers, big names
Jerusalem for his controversial blockbuster ‘The The memory of its performances – Turin
Although its hotels are astronomically are Tuscany’s cities and art, its man-made in sports and showbiz celebrities, Forte dei
Passion of Christ’. gladiators, wild animals and naval battles A Roman colony, the first capital of
priced, a drink by its yacht-filled harbor, artifacts and its vestiges of history. Above Marmi was founded in 1788 by the Grand
– re-enacted in the arena have always Italy and an industrial city. From its
or a stroll around its designer shops can all, there’s the lyrical landscape with which Duke of Tuscany Pietro Leopoldo I of Lorraine
fueled the fantasy of history and film origins to the present time, Turin has
be easily enjoyed on a day trip. There are Tuscany continues to enchant both Italians who commissioned the building of a ‘fort’ to The Kingdom of Baroque buffs. However, everyone is aware of had several different incarnations,
many anecdotes about the town which was and foreigners. There are gently rolling defend the shipment of the precious marble
Caltagirone, Militello, Catania, Modica, Noto, what happened to the 100,000 cubic each of which has left profound traces
used as film set for the Antonioni/Wenders hills, cypresses, sunflowers, narrow winding quarried from the nearby town of Carrara,
Palazzolo, Ragusa and Scicli: these are the metres of shining white marble that in its architecture and urban layout.
movie ‘Beyond the Clouds’. One in particular streets and stone houses scattered around thus making it an important crossroads for
names of Sicily’s magical Baroque towns. Extending over a surface area of less
concerns Villa Altachiara. Its first owner, Lord the countryside. The Tuscan experience is trade. The town is also a mecca of luxury
Protected by UNESCO, and located in south- than 150 square kilometers, crossed by
Carnarvon, who financed the expedition that bound to win over your heart. However, if you shopping.
eastern Sicily, they are sure to steal your the Po, the longest river in Italy, Turin
led to the discovery of Tutankhamun’s tomb, haven’t had your fill of marvels, stop at San
heart and leave you awestruck. Although is characterized by a checkerboard-like
is said to have brought the ‘Curse of the Galgano, the abbey with the sky for a roof!
almost all of these towns existed during grid of streets that makes getting your
Pharaoh’ upon himself. He died shortly after Ah, the wonders of Tuscany! Naples and then… medieval times, they were razed to the bearings easy. One of the city’s most
the tomb was opened and his villa became a
“See Naples and die” is an Italian saying of ground by a devastating earthquake in 1693. distinctive architectural features is its
site of sinister, inexplicable happenings… Forte dei Marmi: the sea
PHOTOS © SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
unknown origin. Believe it or not, all the However, this tragedy resulted in a miracle 18km of porticoes which house shops
of Tuscany clichés about Naples are true: it’s opulent, of beauty: architecture, urban planning and and cafés: its porticoes and its elegant
Tuscany, the Italy that In addition to being the birthplace of a queen passionate, musical, contradictory, chaotic the ornamentation of buildings constitute squares have given Turin the nickname
everyone dreams about (Paola Ruffo of Calabria, the Queen Consort and neglected. People are friendly and the crowning achievement of one of the last Rome of a ‘drawing room’ city.
There’s Florence, boasting the magnificent of Belgium until 2013), Forte dei Marmi is the ‘trained’ over the centuries to ‘get by’, for periods of the flourishing Baroque movement
works of Michelangelo and his marble statues. jet-set paradise of Versilia, on the coast of better or worse. And, yes, its pizza and coffee in Europe. An absolute marvel!
24 W H E R E M I L A N I J U LY 2 0 2 0 www.whe re t ravel er.c om 25
6 W H E R E R O M E I S E P T E M B E R 2 020 www.wheretraveler.com 7
WHERE NOW | WINE EXPERIENCE
E. Pira & Figli-Chiara Boschis, Barolo
wine takes place on the grape skins in “The grape is Nature, wine is Culture”
amphorae. Initially an idea for a few “wine Frank Cornelissen, pioneer of green
anarchists”, this has nevertheless launched winegrowing in the Etna area (Sicily)
a major movement that has brought
natural, biodynamic and organic wines
to everybody’s lips. Indeed, today orange
> Natural wine: it has not had any legal
wines are appreciated by the public at large
recognition by the European certifying
as the fourth colour of wine with its own
bodies. The term groups together many
specific identity.
winemaking styles inspired by the
Today we can say that green wines present
naturalness of the process, envisaging the
themselves as being of excellent quality,
smallest possible number of interventions in
produced with the necessary care and
the vineyard and the wine cellar, the absence
(often) flawlessly.
of chemical additives and of handling by
man. In Italy there are various associations of
There are three main green categories, which
producers that are carrying forward the idea
it is important to get to know for an aware
of a “cleaner” viticulture.
purchase, because organic, biodynamic and
natural are not synonymous.
> Organic wine: it is governed by European
regulation 203 of 2012, which states that
every producer of organic wine requires a
certificate of compliance that allows the
use of the mark or the wording on the
label. It refers to the reduction of chemical
interventions, both in the vineyard and
in the wine cellar, with the limitation of
The “green” revolution
sulphites, the elimination of chemical
substances, the reduction of use of water
resources and the prohibition of use of
genetically modified organisms (GMOs) in
Querciabella, Greve in Chianti the vineyard.
L
et’s go back in history: the very first > Biodynamic wine: in addition to being
finds indicating wine growing date organic, biodynamic wines are produced
Organic drinking is now an wine bars solely devoted to following the spiritual vision of philosopher CORNELIA G. HASSMÜLLER
back to 7000 years ago and take
established tendency, a trend organic, biodynamic or natural Rudolf Steiner and his idea of nature in Certified Wine Expert and Owner
us to Georgia, the cradle of wine,
equilibrium. Thanks to the phases of the of Milano Wine Affair Board member
that is constantly growing in wines. In recent years lifestyles where amphorae have been found of FISAR Milan Delegation
with traces of white wine inside moon, it is necessary to keep the land
Italy, due both to the demand that are attentive to and balanced in a natural way with all its Of German origin, but Milanese by adoption
them. Mankind gradually refined the method
from consumers who are respectful of nature have also of producing wine, changing the processes of organisms, with natural interventions and for many years now. With a passion for wine
the use of only biodynamic preparations in her blood, she has found her vocation
more sensitive to the themes led to the choosing of products production and its nature (and often turning it
on its head). (natural composts) in given phases of the in Italy. Thanks to her activities, Milano
of sustainability and to the with less impact on nature Around 20 years ago a trend of return to year. Although it is not yet recognised at Wine Affair is spreading the culture of wine,
increase in certified organic and with higher quality and the origins began with the rebirth of white legislative level, the Demeter association approaching both companies and visitors to
wines in the amphora, so-called “Orange regulates the process with the maximum Milan, creating multisensory experiences in
land, but also due to the improved production ethics. quantities for sulphites, no use of chemicals the form of wine-tasting, events, seminars,
Wines” (in Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Slovakia and
increase in the numbers of new BY CORNELIA G. HASSMÜLLER
Georgia), where the vinification of white and a reduced use of machinery. teambuilding, entertainment and travel
8 W H E R E R O M E I S E P T E M B E R 2 020
I W H E R E M I L A N I JSUE PNTEE 2020
M B E R 2 020 www.wheretraveler.com 9
WHERE NOW | WINE EXPERIENCE
TOP 10
Veneto
Musella - Amarone della Valpolicella Riserva
2015 DOCG
Corvina e Corvinone 70%, Rondinella 20%,
Oseleta 10%
Here is a TOP 10 of different
16% alc., biodynamic red wine
products and producers in the
www.musella.it
“green” sphere, who through
experimentation, research and
Tuscany
a huge amount of work have Querciabella - Querciabella 2016, Chianti
succeeded in creating a product Classico DOCG Riserva
capable of creating strong Sangiovese 100%
inspirations and emotions with 13,5% alc., organic red wine
excellent local products - thanks www.querciabella.com
to the ever greater sensitivity of
people towards authentic Sicily
eco-friendly products. Frank Cornelissen - Susucaru Rosso 2018,
Terre Siciliane IGP
Nerello Mascalese 85%, Nerello Capuccio,
Trentino-South Tyrol Minella Nera, Allicante Bouschet, Minella Bianco
Pojer & Sandri – Zero Infinito
14,5% alc., organic red wine
Solaris 100% (resistant variety)
www.frankcornelissen.it
12% alc., organic sparkling wine, pet-nat
www.pojeresandri.it
Marche
Pievalta – Curino 2016,
Lombardy Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Passito DOC
Barone Pizzini – Animante Extra Brut,
Verdicchio 100%
Franciacorta DOCG
12,5% alc., biodynamic dessert wine
Chardonnay 84%, Pinot noir 12%,
www.pievalta.it
Pinot blanc 4%
12% alc.,
organic sparkling wine, traditional method
www.baronepizzini.it Do you like this subject? If you’re in
Mario Pojer e Fiorentino Sandri
Milan, would you like to get to know
Liguria Italian wine better, having fun at the
Barone Pizzini same time? Cornelia G. Hassmüller
Rocche del Gatto – Spigau Senza Tempo 2011
organises wine-tastings, wine games
Pigato 100%
and tours in the surrounding area.
13.5% alc., natural wine, orange wine Info and contacts
www.rocchedelgatto.com mwa@milanowineaffair.com –
www.milanowineaffair.com
Querciabella
Friuli-Venezia Giulia
Damijan Podversic – Malvasia 2015, Venezia
Giulia IGT
Malvasia Istriana 100%
14,5% alc., natural wine, orange wine
www.damijanpodversic.com
Pievalta
Calabria
Ceraudo - Grayasusi Etichetta Argento 2018,
Val di Neto Rosato IGT
Gaglioppo 100%
13% alc., organic rosé wine
www.ceraudo.it
Piedmont
E. Pira & Figli Chiara Boschis -
Barbera d'Alba Superiore 2017 DOC
Barbera 100%
15% alc., organic red wine
Frank Cornelissen
www.pira-chiaraboschis.com
10 W H E R E R O M E I S E P T E M B E R 2 020 www.wheretraveler.com 11
WHERE NOW | SIGHTSEEING
MUST SEE AMATRICIANA
Traditional local cuisine is as
much a part of Roman culture
as Michelangelo. And of Rome’s
entire culinary canon, no other
Journalist Silvio Negro pegged the essence of dish is more quintessential
the Eternal City when he said, “Rome: a lifetime than bucatini all’amatriciana. This
popular pasta dish, belonging
isn’t enough.” Not everyone has the luxury of to the tradition of the town of
spending a lifetime, a year, a month, or even a Amatrice, is as simple as it is
delicious: long hollow noodles
full week exploring the countless sights Rome with a sauce of tomatoes,
has to offer. With the average stay lasting just guanciale, and pecorino cheese.
four days, how do you know what to see and
what to skip? Tiffany Parks has saved you the
headache and picked the winners for you.
© LOZZI ROMA SAS
© LOZZI ROMA SAS
PANTHEON
The best preserved ancient monument in the world. The
largest unsupported concrete dome in the world. Quite
possibly the most amazing sight you'll every see. Do
yourself a favor and don't miss it.
COLOSSEO MADE IN ITALY
We’re guessing you probably figured this one out on your own. The
High fashion is an art,
2000-year-old Flavian Amphitheater is the undeniable icon of the
and there's no better
city. Some would even say, if you haven’t been to the Colosseum,
MAXXI you haven’t been to Rome. Not surprisingly, it might feel like every
place to admire it than
Designed by Iraqi architect Zaha Hadid and Rome's along Rome's most
other visitor to Rome had the same idea, considering the long
youngest museum at just 7 years old, the MAXXI exclusive shopping
ticket lines at this famous site. Travel smart by booking in advance
showcases the most groundbreaking art of the moment. street, Via Condotti. If
online (coopculture.it). If that’s not possible, head to the Palatine Hill
With temporary exhibits featuring everything from you have the means,
entrance instead where the lines are a good deal shorter.
contemporary architecture to avant-garde installations, splurge on a pair of
the MAXXI has brought Rome into the 21st century. shoes, a bag, or an
entire outfit, like this
Book GELATO sophisticated look
online! No matter the season,
by Dolce & Gabbana.
vatican.va Otherwise, feed your
Italy isn’t Italy without a
pupils while window-
heaping cone of gelato—
shopping along this PARCO DELLA MUSICA
one in each hand if Take in a concert by the acclaimed Santa Cecilia orchestra
iconic street.
possible! Artisanal gelato and chorus. The ensemble interprets works by the titans of
is slow churned, making classical music under Maestro Antonio Pappano at Renzo
the flavors richer and Piano's cutting-edge performance space.
more developed than
ice cream. Whether you
prefer decadent flavors VITTORIANO
like chocolate or pistachio, Have the entire city at your feet by
refreshing sorbets like visiting the terrace on the top of
lemon, cantaloupe, or the Vittoriano Complex. Bonus: the
peach, or imaginative glass elevator brings you there with
combinations hitherto zero effort on your part.
© MAURO MAZZACURATI
CAPPELLA SISTINA undreamed of, the city’s
Whatever you do, do not leave Rome without visiting the dozens of gelaterias won’t
Sistine Chapel. It may seem overrated, but trust us, it's not. let you down. Be sure to
Michelangelo's tour de force represents the culmination go with a shop that uses
of Renaissance art, and the chapel also boasts frescoes strictly fresh and natural
by Botticelli, Perugino, and several other masters. Take a ingredients.
guided tour to get the most out of your visit.
12 W H E R E R O M E I S E P T E M B E R 2020 w w w. w h e re t r ave l e r. co m 13
il lato fashion
DELL'AUTUNNO
Le tue firme preferite fino al 70% in meno
mcarthurglen.it/castelromano
[ I TA L I A N G R A N D T O U R]
Top in Rome SEE
SEE MAP
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MAP
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COLOSSEUM 1 the Four Rivers, which encompasses with the imperious statue of Oceano many more. The Sistine Chapel by Passetto, a passageway used to be a summit of the Campidoglio is located
The Colosseum is the indestructible an Egyptian obelisk and a sculpture of dominating the scene. Make sure to toss Michelangelo is regarded as one of secret escape for the popes. the Basilica of Santa Maria in Ara Coeli,
symbol of the Eternal City and the four river gods. Other two magnificent a coin or two into its famous waters to the major artistic accomplishments of Map C2/3 reachable by a steep staircase counting
largest amphitheatre ever built. It was fountains decorate the piazza: the assure your return to Rome. Map E3 human civilization. Map B2 MOUTH OF TRUTH 0 124 steps. Map D4
used for gladiatorial contests and public fountain of the Moor, and the Fountain SAINT PETER’S BASILICA 6 PANTHEON 8 It is a marble mask which stands PIAZZA DEL POPOLO 12
spectacles such as mock sea battles, of the Neptune. Map D3 The greatest church in the world with art The city only architecturally intact against the left wall of Santa Maria in It is an enormous square architecturally
wild animal hunts, executions, and PIAZZA DI SPAGNA 4 masterpieces including Michelangelo’s monument from classical times, Cosmedin church. As a lie-detector superb and perfectly symmetrical,
reenactments of famous battles. The most famous staircase in the world, Pietà and Bernini’s Baldacchino. constructed by Agrippa in 27 BC from another time, it attracts dominated by an Egyptian obelisk
Map F4 with its sinuous flight of steps (1772). Michelangelo’s mighty silver-blue and rebuilt by Hadrian. The interior thousands of visitors who audaciously and enriched by important churches
ROMAN FORUM 2 Climb the stairs for a fantastic view of dome dominates the grandiose scene, measures 43.4 m in width and height. stick their hand in the mouth. such as the church of Santa Maria del
The heart of Ancient Rome. See the the city and visit the stunning Trinità dei while Bernini’s Colonnade forms the Light and air (and even rain) enter According to legend, a liar who puts Popolo, which boasts masterpieces by
Arch of Titus, the Temple of Saturn, Monti church at the very top. At its feet solemn entrance to the Vatican and the through the opening at the top his hand in the mouth will have it Caravaggio and Pinturicchio.
the House of the Vestal Virgins, and is the graceful Fountain of the Barcaccia Christendom. Map B3 through which the sky pervade the bitten off. Map D5 Map D1
more. Climb the Palatine Hill to find the by Bernini from which begins Via temple. Map D3 CAPITOLINE HILL !
VATICAN MUSEUMS/SISTINE CHAPEL 7 VILLA BORGHESE 13
Domus Flavia and the Museo Palatino. Condotti, the most exclusive shopping The most important museum of Rome CASTEL SANT’ANGELO 9 One of the seven hills of Rome,
The most celebrated and easily accessible
Map E/F4/5 street in Rome. Map E2 with an incomparable collection Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum, boasting a piazza, designed by
villa is Villa Borghese on the Pincian hill.
TREVI FOUNTAIN 5 of Egyptian, Etruscan, Roman, transformed into a majestic fortress Michelangelo with a bronze copy
PIAZZA NAVONA 3 Take a walk through its intricate gardens
Architect Nicola Salvi’s iconic fountain, Renaissance, and baroque art; works centuries later, now a museum. It is of the equestrian statue of Marcus
One of the most beautiful squares in or go rowing at the romantic Giardino del
celebrating the triumph of waters by Raphael, Caravaggio, Canova, and joined to the Vatican by the famous Aurelius in the middle. On the highest
Rome, it boasts Bernini’s Fountain of Lago. Map D1
14 W H E R E M I L A N I M AY 2020 w w w. w heretravel er. com 15
16 W H E R E R O M E I S E P T E M B E R 2 020 www.wheretraveler.com 17SHOPPING
IN THE HEART OF ROME
60 STORES, 1 GYM, 15 RESTAURANTS AND A PANORAMIC TERRACE!
Via di Valle Aurelia - Roma. Centrocommercialeaura.it
Metro A - Stop Valle Aurelia. 10 min walk from the Vatican[ FA S H I O N D E S I G N E R S ]
Luxury Top Brands
MONTBLANC Open Tue–Sat,
ALBERTA FERRETTI Open Mon–Sat, 10am– EMILIO PUCCI Open daily, 10am–7pm. Piazza di
10am–7:30pm; Sun, 11am–7pm.
7pm; Sun, 10am–1:30pm and 2:30–7pm. Via dei Spagna, 87. Tel 066784058. emiliopucci.com Revamp your Via dei Condotti, 70. Tel
When it comes to Condotti, 34. Tel 066991160. albertaferretti.com Map E2 look in the bold 0669941894. montblanc.com
Map E2 and inimitable
shopping, the Eternal City EMPORIO ARMANI Open daily, 10:30am–7:30pm. Map E2
Via del Babuino, 140. Tel 063221581. armani.com style of
ALTARIVA Open Mon–Sat, 10:30am–7:30pm; MOSCHINO Open Mon–
does not disappoint. The Sun, 10am–1:30pm and 2:30–7pm. Via del Map D2 Blumarine.
Sat, 10:30am–7:30pm; Sun,
Tritone, 31/32/33. Tel 0686984609.
birthplace of iconic brands like ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA Open Mon–Sat, 11am–7:30pm. Via del Babuino,
altarivashoes.it Map E3 156. Tel 066781144. moschino.com
10am–7:30pm; Sun, 10am–7pm. Via dei Condotti,
Bulgari, Fendi, and Valentino, ASPESI Open Mon–Sat, 10am–7pm. 58. Tel 0669940678. zegna.com Map E2 Map E2
Did you know that purple was the color of
Rome holds its own in the Via del Babuino, 144a. Tel 063230376.
ETRO Open Mon–Sat, 10am–7:30pm; Sun, POMELLATO Open Mon–Sat, 10am–8pm. royalty, even in ancient Rome? Look regal in
aspesi.com Map D2 Piazza San Lorenzo in Lucina, 38. Tel
10:30am–7:30pm. Via del Babuino, 102. Tel these timeless suede pumps by Prada.
world of high fashion, offering 066788257. etro.com Map E2 0668809790. pomellato.com Map D3
BALENCIAGA Open Mon–Sat, 10am–7pm.
visitors and locals a chance to Via Borgognona, 7e. Tel 0687502260.
FENDI Open Mon–Sat, 10am–7:30pm; Sun, PRADA Open Mon–Sat, 10am–7:30pm;
balenciaga.com Map E2 Sun, 10am–7pm. Via dei Condotti, 92/95
shop some of the world’s most 10:30am–7:30pm. Largo Goldoni. Tel 06334501.
celebrated luxury brands. If
BLUMARINE Open Mon–Sat, 10am–7:30pm;
Sun, 11am–7pm. Via Borgognona, 31. Tel
fendi.com Map E2
FRATELLI ROSSETTI Open Mon–Sat, 10am–
(women’s). Via dei Condotti, 88 (men’s).
Tel 066790897. prada.com Map E2 Sizing
you want a glimpse into the
066790951. blumarine.com Map E2
7:30pm; Sun, 10am–2pm, 3pm–7pm. ROBERTO CAVALLI Open daily, 10:30am– Women clothes
BORSALINO Open Mon, 3:30pm–7:30pm; Tue– Via del Babuino, 59.a Tel 0636003957. 1pm and 2–7pm. Via Borgognona, 25.
soul of top designer fashion, fratellirossetti.com Map E2 Tel 0669925469. robertocavalli.com
Euro US UK
Sat, 10:30am–7:30pm. Via di Campo Marzio, 72a.
Tel 066783945. Map E2. Piazza del Popolo, 20. Map E2 34 00 2
look no further than the city’s GIORGIO ARMANI Open daily, 10:30am–7:30pm.
Tel 0632650838. Map D1. Via Sistina, 58a. Tel
Via dei Condotti, 77. Tel 066991460. Map E2. SAINT LAURENT Open daily, 10am–8pm. 36 0 4
exclusive Via dei Condotti. This 066788821. Map E2. borsalino.com
Via Tomacelli, 144. Tel 0668808160. Map D2 Piazza di S. Lorenzo in Lucina, 17. Tel 38 2 6
BOTTEGA VENETA Open Mon–Sat, 10am– armani.com 066795577. ysl.com Map E2 40 4 8
glam street is virtually a cou-
7:30pm; Sun 10am–7pm. Piazza San Lorenzo in 42 6 10
GUCCI Open Sun–Fri, 10am–7pm; Sat, 10am– SALVATORE FERRAGAMO Open Mon–
ture candy store, lush with bou- Lucina, 9/13. Tel 0668210024.
bottegaveneta.com Map D3
7:30pm. Via dei Condotti, 8. Tel 066790405. gucci. Sat, 10am–7:30pm; Sun, 10:30am–7:30pm. 44 8 12
tiques by Gucci, Ermenegildo com Map E2 Via dei Condotti, 65. Tel 066781130.
ferragamo.com Map E2
Zegna, Dior, Alberta Ferretti,
BRUNELLO CUCINELLI Open daily, 10:30am–
7:30pm. Via Borgognona, 33. Tel 066787680.
HERMÈS Open daily, 10:30am–7pm. Via dei Women shoes
Condotti, 67. Tel 066791882. Via Bocca di Leone, TOD’S Open Mon–Sat, 10am–7:30pm;
Dolce & Gabbana, and more.
brunellocucinelli.com Map E2
23a. Tel 066791882. hermes.com Map E2 Sun, 11am–7:30pm. Via dei Condotti, 53a.
Euro US UK
BULGARI Open daily, Mon & Sun, 11am–7pm; Tel 066991089 (women’s). Via Fontanella 36 6 3
The nearby Piazza di Spagna, Tue–Sat, 10am–7pm. Via dei Condotti, 10. Tel
HOGAN Open daily, 10:30am–2pm and 3pm–
Borghese, 56a. Tel 0668210066 (men’s)
7:30pm. Via del Babuino, 110. Tel 066786828. 37 7 4
06696261. bulgari.com Map E2 tods.com Map E2
Via Borgognona, Piazza San hogan.com Map E2 38 8 5
CAR SHOE Open Mon–Sat, 10am–7:30pm; Sun TOM FORD FOR MEN (GENTE) Open
Lorenzo in Lucina, and Via del JIMMY CHOO Open Mon–Sat, 10:30am–7:30pm; 39 9 6
11am–7pm. Piazza di San Lorenzo in Lucina, 5. daily, 10:30am–7:30pm. Via del Babuino,
Sun, 11am–7pm. Via dei Condotti, 68a. 40 10 7
Babuino are also must-see Tel 0689385111. carshoe.com Map D3
Tel 0669922667. jimmychoo.com Map E2
185. Tel 063226975. tomford.com
Map E2 41 11 8
spots for fashion mavens. CARTIER Open Mon–Sat, 10:30am–7pm;
LORO PIANA Open Mon–Sat, 10:30am–7:30-pm;
Sunday 11am–7pm. Via dei Condotti, 82/83. TRUSSARDI Open daily, 10am–7:30pm.
Tel 06696751. cartier.com Map E2
Sun, 11am–2pm and 3pm–7pm. Via dei Condotti, 24.
Via Frattina, 42/43. Tel 0669380939.
Men clothes (chest)
Tel 0669924906. loropiana.com Map D2
trussardi.com Map E2 Euro US UK
CÉLINE Open Mon–Sat, 10am–7:30pm. Via dei
LOUIS VUITTON Open Mon–Sat, 10am–7:30pm;
Condotti, 20a. Tel 066787594. celine.com Map E2
Sun, 11am–7:30pm. Piazza di S. Lorenzo in Lucina,
VALENTINO Open Mon–Sat, 10am– 44 34 34
7:30pm; Sun 10am–7pm. Piazza di
CHANEL Open Mon–Sat, 10am–7pm. Piazza di 41. Tel 0668809520. Map D3. Via dei Condotti, 46 36 36
Spagna, 38. Tel 0694515710.
Spagna, 85. Tel 0669769999. chanel.com 13. Tel 0669940000. Map E2 louisvuitton.com 48 38 38
valentino.com Map E2
Map E2
MAX & CO Open daily, 10am–8pm. Via dei Condotti, 50 40 40
VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Open Mon–
CHURCH’S Open Mon–Sat, 10am–7:30pm; Sun 46. Tel 066787946. maxandco.com Map E2 52 42 42
Sat, 10am–7:30pm; Sun, 11am–7pm.
10am–7pm. Via dei Condotti, 57. Tel 0669190920. 54 44 44
MAX MARA Open daily, 10am–8pm. Via dei Via dei Condotti, 15. Tel 069025481.
church-footwear.com Map E2
Condotti, 17/19. Tel 0669922104. maxmara.com vancleefarpels.com Map E2
DAMIANI Open Mon–Sat, 10am–8pm. Map E2
VERSACE Open Mon–Sat, 10am– Men shoes
Via dei Condotti, 84. Tel 0669200477.
MICHAEL KORS Open daily, 10am–8pm. Via dei 7:30pm; Sun, 10:30am–7:30pm.
damiani.com Map E2
Condotti, 36. Tel 0669941372. michaelkors.com
Euro US UK
Piazza di Spagna, 12. Tel
DIOR Open daily, 10am–7pm. Via dei Condotti, Map E2 066780521. versace.com 41 8 7
1–4. Tel 0669924489. (Women’s). Piazza di Map E2 42 9 8
MISSONI Open Mon–Sat, 10am–8pm; Sun,
Spagna, 70/71. Tel 0669190944. dior.com
10:30am–7:30pm. Piazza di Spagna, 78. Tel ZILLI Open Mon–Sat, 43 10 9
Map E2
066793419. missoni.com Map E2 9:30am–7:30pm; Sun, 45 11 10
DOLCE&GABBANA Open daily, 10:30am– 10:30am–6:30pm. Via
Strut your rainbow pride with this loud but MIU MIU Open Mon–Sat, 10am–7:30pm; Sun, 46 12 11
7:30pm. Via dei Condotti, 51/52. Tel 0669924999. Vittorio Veneto, 144.
lovely leather bag by Balenciaga. 10am–7pm. Via del Babuino, 91. Tel 0636004884.
Tel 06486972. zilli.com 47 13 12
dolcegabbana.com Map E2
miumiu.com Map E2
Map F2
32 W H E R E R O M E I S E P T E M B E R 2019
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W H E R E R O M E I S E P T E M B E R 2 020 www.wheretraveler.com 23 33
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WHERE NOW | DINING
P insa Fever
BY FEDERICO SCHIAFFINO
I
think we can safely say that there gated shape (pinsere means “to the pinsa of ancient times, but what together lightness and tastiness.
are no doubts as to the origins of extend” in Latin), and harkens back does modern day pinsa consist of? The finished result is an oval flat-
pizza, which was famously born to the rural traditions of the ancient Today’s pinsa is healthy and light, in bread with a crispy crust and a soft,
from the imagination of a Neapoli- Agro Romano area, the frugal meals keeping with contemporary pref- warm, doughy center, versatile
tan gourmand in the late 18th cen- consumed by peasants there, as erences, and is watchful of caloric and ideal for a vast assortment of
tury. The same can be said for the well as their votive offerings to intake and ease of digestion. The toppings. Thanks to pinsa’s many
indisputable roots of pinsa, pizza’s the gods of the countryside. The secret of its growing success is the qualities, pinserie are popping up all
lesser-known but equally delicious ingredients of this so-called ances- special blend of tender soy and rice over Rome, their owners following
Roman cousin, which can be traced tor of pizza are in fact of humble flours, its soft texture (it consists in the footsteps of Corrado di Mar-
all the way back to the gastronomic extraction: a dough of inexpensive of an 80:20 ratio of water to flour), co, the official inventor of modern
customs of the ancient Latins. cereal flours, such as millet, barley, the use of cold water, and above pinsa, who adds to the scientific
The very name of this oval focac- oats and spelt, mixed with water, all, the very long leavening period, formula what has always been the
cia—that was used as a base for aromatic herbs, and salt, cooked on all of which allow it to achieve the secret ingredient of every perfect
serving food—refers to its elon- charcoal-heated flat stones. This is near-impossible task of bringing recipe: passion.
H E R E A R E T H E T O P 10 S P O T S T O T R Y T H I S TA S T Y— A N D T R U LY R O M A N — S P E C I A LT Y:
b La Pratolina – Via degli Scipioni, 248. We recommend: buffalo mozzarella, sundried tomatoes, and buffalo mozzarella
Tel 0636004409. pizzerialapratolina.it Tropea onion, and Lardo di Colonnata b Antica Schiacciata Romana –
We recommend: ciauscolo sausage and b Magnifico Eat – Via Sistina, 144. Via Folco Portinari, 36. Tel 06536112.
stracchino cheese Tel 0642010483. We recommend: cherry tomatoes, pesto,
b Pinsa e Buoi dei Paesi Tuoi – We recommend:mixed vegetarian buffalo mozzarella, and prosciutto
Viale dello Scalo S. Lorenzo, 15/17. b In & Out – Viale dell'Oceano Atlantico, 271. b Pinsere – Via Flavia, 98. Tel 0642020924
Tel 064456640. pinsaebuoiristorante.com Tel 3914797157. inandoutpinseria.com We recommend: caprese with mozzarella
We recommend: tomato, guanciale, and and tomatoes
pecorino cheese b Pinsa del Grillo – Via Val Trompia, 8.
b Habemus Pinsa – Via Umbria, 19/23. Tel 068174418. pinsadelgrillo.it
Tel 06421016333. habemuspinsa.com We recommend: robiola cheese, smoked salm-
We recommend:eggplant, buffalo on, and chives
mozzarella, ’nduja sausage, and b Dentrofuori – Via Vincenzo Bellini, 7.
gorgonzola cheese Tel 0689345352. dentrofuori.it
b Pinsa Re – Viale Somalia, 47. We recommend: eggplant, anchovies,
Tel 0686219884. pinsare.it buffalo mozzarella, and olives.
We recommend: curly endive, capers, olives, pinsaromana.info
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