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Issue 7
Summer 2016
Quarterly
The eyes & ears of the hospitality industry
Fashion x Food | Eat. Drink. Design. | Sweetings | Peter Gordon | Sake | Miami
R THE I
O
N
F
DU
T R Y.
S T R Y.
US
D
BY
THE IN
Distributed by hand to the best restaurants, hotels, bars and
private members’ clubs | codehospitality.co.uk
-1-
WHAT’S
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PREMIUM QUALITY TONICS & MIXERS, CREATED TO SATISFY THE
MORE DISCERNING ADULT PALATE.
DISCOVER A Nº- OF REASONS TO
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TEL +44 (0) 20 3763 5665 | SALES@PETERSPANTON.COM | WWW.PETERSPANTON.COM
Contents
5 Editor’s letter
5 What’s hot. What’s not.
8 Restaurant gossip
11 London’s doormen
12 Fashion x Food
14 Why has ‘chain’ become a dirty word?
17 California dreamin’
18 The importance of restaurant space
20 Eat. Drink. Design.
25 Lunch at Sweetings
26 Trend setting: sake
32 CODE in conversation with Peter Gordon
36 Service charge: an industry viewpoint
38 Case study: English wine
40 The proof is in the pudding
44 Welcome to Miami
46 Checking in
49 24 hours in Manchester
50 Last orders
Front cover: BAO, Soho.
Editor Contributors Head office
Adam Hyman Libby Andrews CODE
Callum Edge 6th Floor
Creative Director Loyd Grossman Greener House
James Wood Richard Knight 66-68 Haymarket
Anna Sulan Masing London SW1Y 4RF
Daniel Reynolds Tel: +44 207 104 2007
Catherine Taylor contact@codehospitality.co.uk
Emyr Thomas
Zeren Wilson @CODEhospitality
James Wood @codehospitality
CODE Quarterly is published four times a year by Nexus CODE Limited, 6th Floor, Greener House, 66-68 Haymarket, London SW1Y 4RF.
Registered no. 07950029 England and Wales. Printed by Buxton Press, Palace Road, Buxton, Derbyshire, SK17 6AE.
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-4-
Hospitality: the new career choice
E
very couple of months or so One thing I’ve always been keen to takes a journey down memory lane as
I get an email from someone pursue is having the Quarterly written to why wine made him get his driving
asking to buy me a flat white by people who work in hospitality license (p.17). With an extended travel
and pick my brains about and I’m delighted that everyone section in this issue, Emyr Thomas of
leaving their job and coming over to contributing to this issue does. Blixen’s Bon Vivant Travel takes a closer look a
work in the hospitality industry. They’re general manager, Richard Knight the hotel industry in Miami (p.44) and
usually in their mid twenties and have tackles a topic on everyone’s lips at the updates us on what’s happening in the
started a career in something such as moment: service charge (p.36), and world of hotels (p.46).
finance or law but quickly realise that Callum Edge delves a little deeper in to
there’s more to life than a three figure three interesting topics – the rise of sake Thank you for you support and as ever,
salary and the odd client meal out at a in Britain (p.26), English wine (p.38) and questions and comments can be sent to
plush restaurant. pastry chefs (p.40). me at: adam@codehospitality.co.uk.
Having made the same move myself As I was brainstorming ideas for this
over five years ago, it’s refreshing to see issue tucked up on a Finn Air flight
a whole new wave of people who want back from Seoul in April, the funky
to follow a career in hospitality because interiors and branding that can be Adam Hyman
they are passionate about it. We all know seen all over the South Korean capital Founder, CODE
how much more enjoyable it is to work made me think that we should do some @AdamMHyman
the long hours in something you love features on design in hospitality. As well
and enjoy than something you don’t. as a piece on fashion designers creating
staff uniform (p.12), James Wood talks
The fact our industry is starting to be to BAO and the design agency behind
seen as a proper career place is crucial Dishoom King’s Cross on their branding
to its future and one we must all get (p. 20) and Anna Sulan Masing discusses
behind. However, we still have a lot to how space can influence behavior in a
do when it comes to staff welfare and restaurant (p.18).
of course, pay. This is something Peter
Gordon feels very passionate about The industry’s perception on what is a
when I interview him for this issue at restaurant chain is looked at by Libby
The Providores and Tapa Room (p.32). Andrews of Pho (p.14) and Zeren Wilson
What’s hot. What’s not.
Pasta Guest chefs Avocado and poached eggs Free giveaways
No carbs before Marbs. Whatevs. Keep the passport in the side draw. Avo and eggs fatigue. Bring back 500 free burgers before
We’re digging the pasta at Padella in Global chefs are popping up at a the bacon sandwich. 1pm. Enough already.
London and Café Altro Paradiso in restaurant near you.
New York.
Ice cream sandwiches Kombucha Heavy doors Tasting menus
Ice cream and sandwiches: two of Move aside cold-pressed juice. It’s Maybe we need to work on the guns They’re so last year. The
our favourite things. Best eaten at kombucha’s turn. Fermented tea is but restaurant doors seem to be customer wants choice.
Blu Top at Maltby Street market. where it’s at. getting heavier.
E11 Saturday Kitchen
Dig out your Oyster Cards. It’s all about the end of the We never thought we’d say this but
Central Line. The Woodford, Bombetta and Provender. we miss James Martin.
-5-
57 Chiltern Street • London W1U 6ND
-6-
Tel: 020 7935 4679 • @eurocave_uk
Suds up
Hospitality is all about attention to detail. From the
Zalto stem wear to the restaurant’s handwash. This
mandarin rind, rosemary leaf and cedar atlas hand
wash with a herbaceous aroma leaves hands feeling
cleansed and refreshed.
Aēsop Resurrection Aromatique Hand Wash
£27.00 from aesop.com
Issue 7 | Summer 2016 | codehospitality.co.uk
-7-
Restaurant gossip
The latest goings on from the world of
restaurants over the past three months.
London
Quo Vadis and Barrafina
It’s all change at Quo Vadis. The Hart Brothers are
relocating Barrafina Soho to the ground floor of their Dean
Street restaurant and Jeremy Lee is converting the bar into
a new restaurant, as well as opening a restaurant for the
members’ of the upstairs club.
St James’s Market
The Crown Estate has been busy spending millions on the
redevelopment of Lower Regent Street by Piccadilly. Last
year, MILOS opened up and this autumn in St James’s
Market there will be new offerings from the team behind
Tonkotsu, Duck & Waffle, the Salt Yard Group and Aquavit
from New York.
Covent Garden
It’s all go in Covent Garden. The owners of Petersham
Nurseries are to open a new restaurant and shop in the King’s
Court development, off Floral Street. SUSHISAMBA have
signed a deal to take over the former Brasserie Blanc space
on the Opera Terrace that is due to open early next year
and the team behind The Greenwich hotel in New York’s
Tribeca have plans to open a hotel in Covent Garden.
Issue 7 | Summer 2016 | codehospitality.co.uk
Time Out Market
Time Out has announced that it’s to open a number of
food markets around the globe after the success of its first
market in Lisbon. Former Hakkasan director of restaurant
operations, Didier Souillat has been appointed CEO.
-8-
Rest of the UK Rest of the World
Coombeshead Farm World’s 50 Best
Tom Adams of Pitt Cue and April Bloomfield of The For the first time since it was launched fifteen years ago, the
Spotted Pig in New York are to open a working farm and World’s 50 Best Restaurants Awards was held in New York
dining room in Cornwall. Set amongst 66 acres, near this year at Cipriani Wall Street. Massimo Bottura’s Osteria
Launceston, Coombeshead Farm will feature a 6-bedroom Francescana in Modena, Italy came out on top this year.
farmhouse and 12-cover farmhouse dining room. It opens The Ledbury came in at No. 14, The Clove Club at No. 26,
in July. Dinner by Heston at No. 45 and Lyle’s at No. 65.
Dishoom Edinburgh NoMad goes to LA & Vegas
Dishoom is to open its first site outside of London in Will Guidara and Daniel Humm of three Michelin starred
Edinburgh. The Indian restaurant and bar will open in the Eleven Madison Park in New York have announced that
South St Andrew Square development. STK Rebel from they will be opening restaurants in Los Angeles and Las
TheOneGroup and the Big Easy are also both opening sites Vegas. Like in New York, the duo will partner with Sydell
in the Scottish capital. Group, who is opening hotels in both cities in 2017 and
2018.
The Forest Side
Friedman and Bloomfield LA bound
Earlier this year, Wildsmith hotels launched The Forest Side,
a 20-bedroom, 50-cover restaurant set in a 19th century Ken Friedman and April Bloomfield are to open a
Victorian hotel in Grasmere. Former L’Enclume chef, restaurant in LA. The duo, who own The Spotted Pig in
Kevin Tickle heads up the kitchen using local Cumbrian New York and Tosca in San Francisco, have taken over the
produce. Wildsmith also owns The Ryebeck in Bowness-on- Cat and Fiddle pub on Sunset Boulevard.
Windermere and Hipping Hall in Kirkby Lonsdale.
StndAIR
POLPO Bristol
Issue 7 | Summer 2016 | codehospitality.co.uk
The Standard hotel’s StndAir private seaplane is back for
Russell Norman and Richard Beatty are growing their the summer season in New York. Passengers can travel to
POLPO empire outside of London. After Brighton and the Hamptons for the weekend and stay at André Balazs’
Leeds, the duo will soon bring their Venetian restaurant to Sunset Beach resort on Shelter Island. Passengers get served
Bristol and we hear Birmingham may be on the cards too. André Balazs rosé and in-flight desserts from Narcissa
pastry chef Deborah Racicot.
-9-
Great beer deserves
Great glassware
Your personal glassware supplier
-10-
01264 33 44 75 - sales@chefxpress.co.ukLondon Doormen: 45 Serhat Metin
Jermyn St & Sexy Fish Doorman, Sexy Fish
What makes a good Who is the most famous
doorman? person you’ve held the door
open for?
A good doorman knows how I’ve held the door for a number
to smile, be courteous, efficient, of people, so it’s difficult to pin
welcoming and charmingly point who was the most famous.
authoritative when needed. He Jennifer Lawrence was definitely
recognises regulars and treats up there on the list.
everyone with respect. Since
the doorman is the first person
one encounters when entering
the establishment, it is crucial
that he makes a good first
impression. Having a good sense
of humour is also a bonus.
Dan Patterson
Doorman, 45 Jermyn St
Issue 7 | Summer 2016 | codehospitality.co.uk
What makes a good Who is the most famous
doorman? person you have opened the
door for?
I think a good doorman has to You meet a lot of famous people
instinctively know when people as part of the job but as a rule
want to talk, and when they want of thumb, I never disclose
a little space. But either way, he who I have met – it’s all about
or she has to be friendly, discrete discretion.
and a discerning source of local
knowledge. A nice smile and a
good memory help too.
-11-Fashion x Food
The food and fashion worlds have lots in common.
Across the globe, designers are teaming up with
restaurants to create staff uniforms.
EVISU x Sosharu
Jason Atherton partnered with Japanese
brand EVISU when he opened his
first Japanese restaurant, Sosharu
in Clerkenwell. The bespoke denim
aprons for the front of house team echo
the Japanese design elements of the
restaurant including the denim curtains in
the dining room.
sosharulondon.com
evisu.com
Nicholas Oakwell x
Rosewood London
Rosewood London called upon British
couturier, Nicholas Oakwell, to create
a bespoke wardrobe for its hotel staff.
Made in the UK from Nicholas Oakwell’s
uniform company, the classic English
designs include flat caps and tweed suits
for the doorman and dark navy blue wool-
silk blazers with Grey Prince of Wales
wool with a blue overchecked trousers
and waistcoats and a velvet bowtie for the
butlers.
Issue 7 | Summer 2016 | codehospitality.co.uk
rosewoodhotels.com
nicholasoakwellcouture.com
-12-Image credit: Justin Chung
Engineered Garments
x Ippudo NY
New York City label Engineered
Garments created a special jacket for
the staff at ramen restaurant Ippudo in
Manhattan. Japanese designer Daiki
Suzuki designed one of his unstructured
Bedford jackets from a hardy twill fabric
in navy with additional armpit vents
for when it gets a little steamy in the
restaurants. And it’s machine-washable.
ippudony.com
engineeredgarments.com
Christian Lacroix x
SO Sofitel Bangkok
During its creation, Bangkok urban
hotel SO Sofitel instructed French
designer Christian Lacroix to help
create the interiors and staff uniform for
their property.
As well as creating the “Tree of Life”
- the hotel’s emblem - he brought bold
colours and floral touches into the
uniform designs that merge traditional
Thai dress with the sharp lines of French
tailoring.
sofitel-so-bangkok.com
christian-lacroix.com
Issue 7 | Summer 2016 | codehospitality.co.uk
-13-Why has ‘chain’
become a dirty word?
Libby Andrews, head of marketing and PR at Pho,
takes issue with the industry’s c-word.
Pho
W
hen was the last time you Two weeks ago on Twitter, when Gary training. For instance, at Pho (I say
went to Pizza Express Usher of Sticky Walnut was asking this with full disclosure as the head of
or saw their dough about what makes a chain a chain, the marketing), we were only able to begin
balls on your Instagram publishing manager at ShortList and Mr importing our premium Vietnamese
feed? At one point it was lauded as a Hyde, said that their editors considered spirits once we had eight restaurants and
breakthrough on the British dining anything with more than five locations enough people buying and imbibing our
scene and now, no one in the ‘industry’ with the same name, that offered the same cocktails.
would be caught dead sharing their menu in the same environment, to be a
American Hot pizza on social media. chain. Not to mention, the standards that chains
are held to by the Environmental Health
As an industry, we have seen it a million So when does the shift happen? When Office (EHO), which are incredibly strict
times and we are all guilty of it. Chain does a start-up become part of the fabric and specifically focus on chains. Chains
discrimination. We all embrace openings and why has ‘chain’ become a dirty word? are more visible to them and easier to
and new restaurants and support their cite - so the training inherently becomes
growth from one to two, to three or We can probably all agree that a restaurant crucial. Obviously not all chains deliver
four sites only to automatically begin to with more than five sites is a chain, but on these improved standards, but many
Issue 7 | Summer 2016 | codehospitality.co.uk
disapprove once they hit six or seven, or this shouldn’t be seen as a negative thing. do, and the issue is that the dirty word is
to toss them aside for the next best thing. If a restaurant brand is scalable and rolled applied to pretty much every brand with
When a street trader trades in their truck out in the right way, with the same focus more than five or six locations. Based
for bricks and mortar we shout from on quality and local customer experience, purely on the opening of its doors.
the rooftops. And rightly so, it’s a huge shouldn’t we be applauding them? This
accomplishment to go from a street stall in is after all the direct result of customer Chains also grant customers a great deal
Netil Market to a booming restaurant in numbers, of demand, and of a successful of comfort because they always know
Soho. But how about when a start-up we concept. And surely that’s the goal? what they are going to get. Of course,
all love begins to expand? After POLPO there are different levels. A customer
grew to seven, eight and eventually nine Let’s look at some benefits of running a walking in to Chilango vs Côte expects a
locations the column inches ceased to chain of restaurants. As a chain grows, different level of service and food, but the
come their way. so do its resources. This means sourcing customer in both expects that consistency
better products and focusing on better in any branch. For those with allergies and
-14-dietary requirements, this is extremely
important. Knowing that a restaurant
chain is certified gluten free means that if
you are travelling to Bristol from London,
you are guaranteed the comfort of eating
out with friends or family without being
seen as fussy.
While consistency is important and creates
that sense of trust in a brand, it doesn’t
have to necessarily mean ‘carbon copy.’
Sure, the exact same restaurant, taken
out of a box and rolled out to 10 locations
is boring and lacks personality. But what
about the ones that do have character, and
treat each location like its own restaurant,
like Bryon and MEATliquor, who take
careful consideration in the design of
each site?
Hawksmoor Knightsbridge
And then there are the employees of these
chains. We’ve all had trouble finding good
people to work in our restaurants. We
are all constantly looking for quality
staff. Chains are the mainstay of this.
They are training up young chefs and
floor staff. Finding talent and nurturing
it is what allows chains to grow, allows consideration that we give individual So, who wants to join me for some dough
careers to grow, and allows a business to restaurants? If you visit one and have an balls? You know, those same ones we
flourish. awful experience, then fair enough. But really liked years ago.
painting all chains with the same-tarred
Hawksmoor is a great example – as brush seems unfair and harsh from the
a chain with six restaurants and four industry audience. Are we no longer
sister restaurants, celebrating its 10th loving the stone ovens imported by
birthday this year, they have around 700 Pizza Pilgrims because they are about
employees, many of whom started as a to hit the magic number of six sites? Is
bartender or waitress and over the years Burger & Lobster no longer worth our
have developed their careers into bar custom because they’ve opened outside
managers and general managers. In fact, of London? If people in Bristol are now
they don’t even recruit general managers eating MEATliquor - has it lost the luster
externally at all. But then, let’s take a that made us queue outside a car park Libby Andrews
minute to check our collective privilege in Marylebone in the first place? Are we
- do any of us qualify Hawksmoor as a @LibbyEAndrews
going to deprive ourselves of our beloved
chain? Why, or why not? Dishoom bacon naans because too much Libby Andrews is the head of
of the public has access to them? marketing and PR at Pho.
Doesn’t every chain deserve the same
POLPO
Issue 7 | Summer 2016 | codehospitality.co.uk
-15-Specialist Restaurant
Development Project Managers
Specialist Project Managers
Quantity Surveyors|FF&E
Procurement |CDM
Estimating; design team selection; landlord and authority
negotiations; contractor selection; programming; cost control;
tender and contract documentation; construction administration;
final accounts; specialist advice
Recent & Current Projects:
Eneko @ 1 Aldwych - Albion Turnmill - 8 Mount Street - Milos Regent St - BBX @
Leadenhall - Les Deux Salon - Lounge Lovers - Babylon Roof Gardens - St Albans
- Delaunay - Brasserie Zedel - BobBob Richard - One Canada Square - Lutyens -
The Boundary - myhotels
ian@keytask.co.uk p: 07785 220495 www.keytask.co.uk
-16-California dreamin’
As Sideways opens on the stage in London, Zeren Wilson
reminisces of his time spent in the vineyards of California.
O
ver a decade ago, wow. press-ganged a willing accomplice on American winemaker to be hired as
As the stage adaptation each visit, I wasn’t going to get to any winemaker and vineyard manager
of Sideways begins its vineyards: the Greyhound coaches of a Burgundy estate, at Guy Roulot
run in London at the St aren’t going to help much, that’s for in Meursault. Stories like Ted’s have
James Theatre, St James’s Park, I’m sure. bound me ever closer to the wines
reminded of my own Californian of the region. I was hooked. His
epiphany, which happened to coincide A Pinot Noir tasted in the town wines remain my all-time favourite
with the release of the film. of Santa Rosa wowed me – Kosta Californian wines, wonderful Pinot
Browne, from Sonoma County. Within Noirs and Chardonnays.
Having jacked in a job in magazine minutes I was emailing winemaker
advertising sales, and taken a Michael Browne asking if I could The brilliance of Sideways was that
precipitous - and terrifying - leap to hang around and help in the winery it captured the sense of beauty and
join Oddbins the previous year, 2004 at next year’s ‘crush’. 2006 came excitement of Wine Country without
found me working at independent along and there I was, two weeks of audiences needing to understand or
merchant The Winery, in Maida punching down grape skins in small even care about wine, yet there were
Vale. Among other wines imported vats, sorting grapes on the table, and plenty of ‘in’ jokes so that wine nuts
exclusively by owner David Motion working alongside a guy called Jamie could nod along approvingly, stroking
(most notably dry Rieslings from Kutch who was learning how to make chins and having an inner chuckle.
“No, if anyone orders Merlot,
Californian specialists The Wine
Treasury and The Vineyard Cellars
have been holding an annual trade
I’m leaving. I am not drinking tasting at one of the Goodman group
of restaurants for several years now,
and each year it feels more relevant
any fucking Merlot!”– Miles than ever before, the roll-call of
top sommeliers and restaurateurs a
testament to the groove and bounce
Raymond, Sideways (2004) that the wines now have in the UK.
Other merchants have added more to
their portfolios too.
Germany, and small growers from wine: Kutch Wines are now some of
Burgundy and Piemonte), stood a the most admired and sought after in Like any visit to a wine region,
scintillating selection of boutique The Golden State, and you can now everything makes more sense
Californians: teeth staining Zinfandel find them in the UK, imported by once you’ve seen the vineyards,
and Petite Sirah; sumptuous, Roberson Wine. soaked up the feel of the place,
cherry laden Pinot Noirs; elegant eaten in the restaurants. Opening
Chardonnays; Cabernet Sauvignons Back in 2006 it was a struggle to a bottle transports you back there
with more than a whiff of ‘Old find much decent Californian wine immediately, and becomes part of the
World’ restraint and poise – the first in the UK, aside from the usual big great pleasure of the wine experience.
rumblings of a love for Californian dog suspects, most of which were I’m a sucker for these wines, they
wine. also punishingly expensive. Roberson press my buttons and make me smile.
became the trailblazers in the UK for Even the Merlots.
A couple of months later I was on a ‘The New California Wine’ as it was
plane heading to San Francisco and styled by Jon Bonné in his 2013 book California dreamin’, indeed.
wine country. Sideways was the first (Sager + Wilde the evangelist wine
film playing: a euphoric, appropriate, bar leading that charge for the on-
knee-janglingly anticipatory build-up trade, banging the Californian drum),
for the trip ahead. a clutch of winemakers spearheading
a movement that was a reaction to
Shooting across the Golden Gate the blowsy, sledgehammer wines of
bridge and just an hour away, the 80s and 90s. The ‘Old California’
Sonoma begins to unfurl its sweeping was always about elegance, grace
vista of vineyards. Over the course and balance before the ‘big ripe fruit
of a week, and I’m in love with the bomb’ era, and so this wave of wines
town of Healdsburg, its cute square, was a homecoming of sorts. Zeren Wilson
Issue 7 | Summer 2016 | codehospitality.co.uk
the vineyards and tasting rooms @bittenwritten
within striking distance, and Charlie I visited Ted Lemon of Littorai,
Palmer’s Dry Creek Kitchen in Hotel a winemaker who epitomises Zeren Wilson is a food and wine writer,
Healdsburg: a revelatory post-tasting what this new guard are looking consultant and runs bittenandwritten.com
lunch of foie gras and wagyu sliders to achieve: wines with freshness,
at the bar (before the ‘slider’ had brighter acidity, often with more
come anywhere near a UK restaurant modest ABVs. He’s the cover star of
menu) remains etched in the memory. Bonné’s book. A serious track record
began with studying winemaking
California made me learn to drive. in Burgundy, going on to work with
The second visit later that year was wineries including Dujac, Roumier,
the clincher, realising that unless I Bruno Clair, and becoming the first
-17-The importance of
restaurant space
Anna Sulan Masing looks at the importance of space in restaurants
and how it can impact the food, service and people’s behaviour.
W
e all use and experience understanding what guests’ want and the idea on its head and suggesting
spaces differently. We their role within the business. Quite making the space markedly different
all have preferences of simply the guest’s role is to pay for an from the rest of the restaurant with
what we like to feel in experience; one that revolves around such things as their own beer taps or
a space and how we want to navigate food and drink. Rankin expressed great pieces of art work.
a particular space. When we eat the fact that restaurants need to have
out we make decisions about what “substance”. Restaurants should not Like any business, restaurants start
environments we want to be in, how soley rely on a concept but instead with an idea and ideals. Then there
far we want to travel, as well as what understand that guests come to be is compromise. With restaurants the
we eat and drink when we get there. part of an experience meaning you business model is about people staying
The space of a restaurant is organised need to design and organise a space to in a space consuming a product; so
and dressed to express an identity, and achieve that. both of these are equally important.
influences how people behave. The Restaurants are both a work
level you speak at in a bar, is different Rankin discussed the idea of having environment and a place of leisure.
to when at a white table clothed table a square room arranged to give a
at a Michelin starred restaurant – yet focal point, like a kitchen or a bar. It took Laure Patry a year to find the
both spaces aim to make you to feel This echoes ideas of performance, space for Social Wine and Tapas,
comfortable. which seems appropriate to the times. the restaurant she opened with Jason
Food and drink has become a visual Atherton in Marylebone. Originally
In a recent discussion with Dan art through the likes of Instagram Patry had in mind a space with a lot
Doherty, executive chef at Duck & and the restaurant world feels more of light; but they eventually opened
Waffle, about ideas of teamwork, he accessible through social media and in a space over multiple floors with
spoke about his open kitchen creating TV programmes that are dedicated the main dning room being in a
a sense of ‘team’, because it feels like to the creation of food or wine. windowless basement. This meant
everyone is in one room. This broke Restaurants are the live show with the changes to the original loped around
down barriers between front of house, public developing a healthy interest the restrictions of the type of kitchen
back of house and guests. The journey and understanding of the intricacies they could build in the space.
of the food was transparent and of the industry.
enjoyed by all, from chef, to waiter to With wine comes the practical need
guest. Off the back of Rankin’s experience for space and storage. For example, in
in developing non-restaurant spaces, Hong Kong where space is expensive,
So, how else does space and location such as pubs, a square room is not restaurants tend to have smaller,
affect service, staff and the guests? just creating a performance, it’s about focused wine lists. Patry spoke about
Issue 7 | Summer 2016 | codehospitality.co.uk
Can we think of space as fluid, or is it efficient service. Staff are able to see the importance of being able to
something that is static to be worked the entire room, resulting in being develop a wine list that can be adapted
around? I discussed this with chef Neil able to react and respond to guests to the space you have. Space can also
Rankin, Emma Underwood of Burnt quicker, and monitor and manage the affect how and who you employ; with
Truffle and sommelier Laure Patry flow of people. And with the ability to a smaller wine list you might not need
of Social Wine & Tapas about their see the entire room you need less staff a dedicated sommelier, but your wait
individual relationships with space in as there are no awkward, tucked-away staff must be highly trained on wines.
restaurants. tables to look after.
Building restaurants in locations and
Neil Rankin spoke about the But do even the best thought out countries around the globe that all
importance of the guest and the restaurants spaces have a ‘bad table’? have individual spaces requires a
importance of good service. It is about Rankin approached this by flipping constant skill to adapt, collaborate
-18-“The space of a restaurant is
organised and dressed to express
an identity, and influences how
people behave.”
and listening. Patry works closely with builds a team and Rankin’s point about
the restaurant designer, the chefs and creating a focus for guests. Knocking
the bartenders when working on a new down the wall was going to cost too
Social Group restaurant but she also much at Burnt Truffle, but week
notes that it’s so important to see how five (out of an eight week build) the
the space is used when it opens, and builders offered to do the work for free,
how the guests react and respond to it. changing the space and contributing
hugely in creating the atmosphere and
Space is about the people that are in identity of the restaurant.
it, how it sits within the wider location
and its community. The life of Burnt Creating a space that works is never
Truffle was born in the online space. an exact science and everyone I spoke
By using Twitter, Gary Usher and his to talked about problems they hadn’t
staff told the story of Burnt Truffle and thought of when first conceiving a
created a community. Through social restaurant. How a space works is not
media they showed that the restaurant something that can be tested until it is
space (and sister restaurant’s Sticky up and running, until it is too late to
Walnut and the up-coming Hispi) is knock down walls.
not confined to four walls. Tweets
seeping into people’s bus journeys Even though space is constructed, and
to work across the UK, but its heart often by heavy, immovable objects
remaining in its locale. (like walls) all spoke about space with
an idea of fluidity, of being adaptable.
General manager Emma Underwood Another common theme was a real
explained that people in Heswall emphasis on developing relationships
have, wonderfully, claimed Burnt across and through the space and
Truffle as their own. This sense of holding on to a strong sense of identity
ownership and community has meant of the business and the people involved
that they feel part of the location and in it.
the restaurant. Usher and his team
always wanted to be a neighbourhood
restaurant, a place for locals, but hadn’t
expected the support they ended up
Issue 7 | Summer 2016 | codehospitality.co.uk
receiving. The space was influenced
by the people building it. “The build
had a feeling of everyone mucking in.
The plumbing was done for free by
CBES Services who had followed the
campaign on Twitter and chefs from
Sticky Walnut came on their days off
to help”, notes Underwood.
Anna Sulan Masing
One of the focuses of Sticky Walnut @AnnaSulan
is the open kitchen and Underwood
echoes Doherty’s sentiments that this
-19-Eat.
Drink.
Design.
James Wood takes a closer look at the
relationship between food, drink and
design at two London restaurants.
T
he relationship between food, drink Hospitality genuinely offers a designer a brilliant
and design isn’t new. It’s been around opportunity to be creative. Just as food takes its
for hundreds of years. You only need influence from the deepest reaches of the world –
to Google vintage packaging to see the design follows. Typefaces hand painted from Lima,
wonderful hand lettered designs from the early retro postcards from the Mediterranean, matchstick
20th Century. However, what I’ve noticed working boxes full of Mexican chilies - all brought together
in the London creative fold for the past eight years to enhance the customer experience. Equally, bad
is the abundance of excellent work that takes place design can stick out like a sore thumb. When it’s
within the hospitality industry. You now associate overcomplicated, poorly conceived or just gets in the
a good dining experience with an equally good way of the food it can ruin a dining experience.
design experience. It’s no surprise with the London
creative industry worth an estimated £35 billion Each quarter, I’ll explore some of the standout graphic
and the London hospitality industry a similar design projects trending in the capital, and speak to
the people behind them. In this issue I speak to the
amount, it’s only natural they would enjoy a fruitful graphic designers behind Dishoom and BAO.
crossover.
-20-Dishoom King’s Cross
by &Smith
Stepping into any Dishoom is a visual treat With Dishoom Kings Cross you had this partnership is successful. If everything
for a designer, none more so than their a rich backstory to explore - what works together correctly, it will feel ‘right’
King’s Cross restaurant. It’s one of those steps did you take to make sure it to a customer without them even realising.
projects that instantly makes you jealous. felt authentic?
The attention to detail is second to none.
In particular it’s the subtle branding that We were lucky when we met Dishoom, You have worked on a wide variety
threads the experience together. Designed as Shamil, Kavi and the team were so of hospitality projects - in your eyes
by &Smith, the identity took inspiration passionate about the original Bombay what creates the best restaurant/
from Bombay’s old Irani cafes, with cafes and paying homage to them in a bar identity?
King’s Cross focusing on an old railway respectful way. They had an impressive
transit shed. I sat down with Rachel collection of original Indian and Bombay The best restaurant/bar identity is one
Smith, Creative Partner of &smith, to printed collateral which ranged from the that immerses you in the experience
find out more about the project. 1920s to the 1970s. It’s an invaluable without you even noticing. A few extra-
resource for us as there’s only a limited considered touches that support the
amount of Indian ‘vintage’ collateral concept are always nice to see. A great
How do you go about researching online, and this allowed us to consider example of this is the small ice cream
for a new project, other than tasting texture and weight of materials, as well ordering pad with pencil I got given in
the food & drink? as visuals. A lot of the items we produced The Beaumont’s Colony Grill Room
for Dishoom early on were very light in the other day. It was a well-designed and
We like to do absolutely anything that weight, as this is the paperweight that was subtle extra touch. I get a bit disappointed
will get us in the mood for the experience readily available in India in the early 20th when there isn’t enough to appreciate,
that we’re about to brand. We need to Century. It’s details like this that help to but maybe that’s because I’m a graphic
inspire our designers as much as possible, add to the authentic texture of the project. designer who should learn to switch off.
so trying the food and drink is always the
ultimate starting point – it’s a tough gig, I
really need to go the gym more. How important do you feel design Lastly, what’s &Smith’s favourite
is to the eating and drinking restaurant at the moment?
We also like to spend time with everyone experience?
involved in the project from the client’s For food, my trusty favourites are
side too. It takes time, but you can learn I think good design is important, but Blanchette in Soho and Kurobuta in
as much from an assistant manager who I don’t ever want it to overshadow the Marble Arch. I make up reasons to go
is running a restaurant day to day as you food or the interiors. In an ideal situation back to those two places all the time.
can from the owner. It’s all about listening everything has to work together seamlessly However, I have a list as long as my
and then filtering. This is perfect for and support each other at different stages arm that I want to try in London at the
existing restaurants that want to sharpen of the experience. The earlier a designer moment. There just aren’t enough days in
up. I find the staff on the ground usually is involved the better in my opinion, and the week.
have a lot of the answers if you spend the graphic designers should be constantly
time with them. talking to the interior designers to ensure
Menu, Dishoom Signage, Dishoom
-21-“You now associate a good dining
experience with an equally good
design experience.”
Wall artwork, Dishoom
-22-BAO Instagram
CLASSIC BAO by BAOCONFIT PORK
Braised Pork Confit Pork Belly
Peanut Powder Pork Sauce, Hot Sauce
BAO, a Taiwanese inspired steamed bun Can you tell us little more about the How important do you feel
Fermented
restaurant, Greens
is another space using design BAO character illustration? DrieddesignShallots
is to the eating & drinking
Coriander as a street
to their advantage. Starting life
stall in Hackney, they have gone on to The character actually came from one
experience?
4.5
3.75
open a permanent spot in Soho, with
their second opening in Fitzrovia in June.
of Erchen’s projects at the Slade which
involved an installation around lonely
The eating and drinking experience is
all encompassing, from the ambience of
men. Whilst we were speculating about the restaurant, to how the food is served.
Subtle, charming and unobtrusive, their BAO we decided to develop one of the Design is key because every single detail
identity sets the tone before you even character’s illustrations and slowly the and element involves design, it’s just how
enter the restaurant. You may have even man got a little bit wider and slowly a bao much you want to focus on the details and
spotted one of their tote bags around appeared in his hand. And one day he the processes. For me it is integral as it
London. Most impressively, it was all decided he’d rather not like to share. completes the experience.
designed by themselves. I spoke with
FRIED CHICKEN
Shing Tat Chung and Erchen Chang, two
thirds of the BAO team, to find out more
LAMBLastly,BAO are there any other
Your Instagram account does an restaurant identities you enjoy?
BAO
about the project. excellent job in showcasing the BAO
experience (and you’ve got quite the We love St. JOHN and Quo Vadis - the
following) - do you have any advice illustrations and style of their identity is
I understand you guys designed for restaurants engaging withLamb Shoulder
their inspiring.
the brand and website yourselves customers this way?
Soy- Milk
where Marinated
did the clean and Chicken
casual Coriander Sauce
inspiration come from? Instagram is a great tool, we first used it
Sichuan Mayo, Golden because of the nature of what we were Garlic Mayo
Erchen and I studied fine art and I went doing. Travelling around in Soy marketsPickled Chilli
Kimchi, Sesame
on to study design BAO
afterwards. We always meant that social media was extremely
enjoyed simple and clean designs and we important as it was the only tool to
5 to come across as communicate where we were. We enjoy
didn’t want our style 5
fussy and complicated. What started off as the social channels as it’s great fun to
a simple illustration for the logo developed interact with people but also to post
into the branding, the design and the lovely images, which we enjoy. I guess the
interiors. advice is to have fun with it and the people James Wood
Issue 7 | Summer 2016 | codehospitality.co.uk
engaged will have fun looking at it. @designedbyjaw
V V
James Wood is the founder of
design studio, JAW.
designedbyjaw.co.uk
CRUMBED DAIKON FRIED HORLICKS
BAO ICE CREAM BAO
Panko Crumbed Daikon Horlicks Ice Cream
Daikon Pickle, Hot Sauce -23- Condensed Milk, Fried BAO
& CorianderOne chance to make
A first impression
Your personal Steelite supplier
-24-
01264 33 44 75 - sales@chefxpress.co.ukLunch at Sweetings
Broadcaster, journalist and restaurant lover Loyd Grossman
bypasses the latest restaurant openings in London and New
York and takes us out to lunch at Sweetings.
A
t the recent Tatler restaurant no credit cards. While I seriously dislike buttered side order of samphire was
awards at the Savoy all such consumer-unfriendly practices, definitely on the money. There was no
hotel, the ‘Test of Time’ Sweetings is charming and magnificent. room for pudding.
category honoured those
establishments who have been in There is a dining room where you can Prices are at the top end of the scale,
business for at least 15 years. sit on proper chairs in relative ease, but but not a deterrent. Go there. Love
for me the real experience is perched it and learn from it. Authenticity and
In the two eating out capitals of the on an uncomfortable stool at one of the single-mindedness are rare and valuable
world - London and New York - the pace bars in the two front rooms. The cream bedfellows in today’s restaurant world.
of restaurant openings is so frantic and painted walls are hung with spy cartoons
consequently public taste is so fickle that of eminent Victorians and Hyde-Park- Sweetings
we are in danger of erasing valuable and railing quality still lives. You sit before 39 Queen Victoria Street
fascinating restaurant history. bottles of Lea & Perrins, Heinz ketchup, London
Sarson’s Vinegar and Tobasco. There EC4N 4SA
In Paris it was possible to eat and eat well is unflattering neon lighting and ceiling
in the 18th, 19th and early 20th centuries, fans. Staff are dressed in severe black and sweetings.co.uk
which was hardly the case in London and white.
New York where historic restaurants are
scant and endangered. Thankfully some You begin with the best ever Black Velvet-
still flourish. Rules has been going strong 40% Champagne, 60% Guinness - served
Issue 7 | Summer 2016 | codehospitality.co.uk
since 1798 and I ask you to consider very cold in a silver tankard: half a pint
Sweetings with an ancestry dating back to for the prudent, a pint for the brave. The
1830, although only occupying its current all fish menu is wonderful. My eldest
premises for a mere 100 years. daughter and I began by sharing an
order of the plumpest scallops wrapped
In spite of its antiquity and almost as if to in the smokiest bacon. She followed with Loyd Grossman
prove that ‘there is nothing new under the excellent pan-fried sea bass fillets, which, @loydgrossman
sun’, Sweetings has as many eccentricities of course, is not so hard to do. My lemon
as the latest Shoreditch pop up: lunch sole - often a flavourless bore unless
only, weekdays only, no reservations, battered and fried - was just sensational:
no coffee, and until relatively recently, uberfresh and perfectly cooked. An amply
-25-Issue 7 | Summer 2016 | codehospitality.co.uk
Trend Setting:
S A K ECallum Edge explores how the appreciation of sake has
lagged behind the recent popularity of Japanese food and
culture in the UK, but finds that there is a small group of
people championing its naissance.
I
n 1884, London had its first taste to brewing, the end result can range from I first met Kikuya at her newly created
of Japanese cuisine in the upstairs sweet to savoury, and crystal clear to sake course at the WSET HQ in London’s
of Bertram & Roberts’s smoking cloudy varieties. Bermondsey. Tellingly, the majority of
pavilion as part of the International the twenty-four of us students with wine
Health Exhibition. In rather clipped In spite of its cultural significance, sales of backgrounds initially had difficulties
tones, The Morning Post’s subsequent sake in Japan, however, have been on the detecting the correct levels of acidity,
review described the meal as “rather, to decline over the last fifty years. The drink is alcohol, and sweetness in each glass. But
say the least, unsatisfactory. It might be regarded as old-fashioned by the younger once the confusion wore off, the whole
suggested that a good curry or stew of generation, who prefer beers and spirits, room was confidently identifying each
substantial character – and surely there and with an ageing workforce the industry variety and declaring their preference for
must be such in the Japanese cuisine is finding it hard to convince the youth a particular sake over another.
– could with advantage be added to to dedicate their lives to its production.
the present menu . . . The sake is very Instead, efforts are being made to raise Kikuya was also behind the week-long
refreshing, but rather stronger and awareness overseas for a consumer market Hox Cup Sake Bar at the Hoxton Hotel
more intoxicating than most people that will readily embrace this seemingly in March, set up in order to demonstrate
would imagine” (The Morning Post, 12 new, quality product. that sake can be enjoyed as much as a
September 1884). casual drink in a bar setting as in a high-
Natsuki Kikuya, whose family have end Asian restaurant. Cup sake was
Fast-forward almost a century and a been involved in the industry for over originally devised for the 1964 Tokyo
half and Japanese dining is now some three hundred years and a former sake Olympics to enable thirsty spectators to
of the most ubiquitous in London and sommelier at Zuma and ROKA, believes enjoy an alcoholic drink whilst watching
the sporting events. Previously holding
entry-level sake, there has been a recent
shift with a more premium contents and
distinctive design, and glasses and cans
“...sake still remains largely have become collectibles in their own
right. It’s a winning idea, especially for
unknown to the British palate”.
Western consumers, allowing them a
taste of this or that but without so much
burden of cost or waste.
Many Japanese restaurants in London –
Sake No Hana, Kanada-Ya, Shoryu, and
that there is still huge potential for the Tonkotsu, among them – have realised
New York, popular due to its relatively appreciation of sake to grow in the UK. that consumers are always looking for
low price point and perception as being That’s not to say that it’s not a hard something new and unique, and have
healthy, yet tasty food. YO! Sushi and sell – it’s not a spirit or wine, as most focused on making their sake lists both
Wagamama first opened our eyes and people think; it’s hardly cheap; and the more accessible and more prominent.
mouths to conveyor-belt sushi and ramen often indecipherable labels rarely lend SUSHISAMBA, for instance, begins its
noodles in the nineties in London, with themselves to consumer memory. There drink list with a sake offering by the glass,
Nobu and Zuma taking the premium is also the issue of competition with the not tucked away, as is often the case, at
pan-Asian market not long after. Now it wine and beer trades, as well as a lack of the end. Slightly sweet, low alcohol, and
is the izakaya – loosely, a Japanese snack wider industry knowledge and training. easy drinking sparkling sake is a good start
bar or pub – that reigns. But despite our
Issue 7 | Summer 2016 | codehospitality.co.uk
for the uninitiated – Brits, after all, find
newfound fondness for teriyaki, karaage, Yet, in an effort to counter this, and to it hard to resist anything fizzy. Likewise,
tempura, and udon, sake still remains share her love for sake on a bigger scale, fruity, fresh sake cocktails, especially when
largely unknown to the British palate. Kikuya launched the virtual “Museum of combined gin, go down well with Western
Sake”, an organisation that provides sake palate.
For the Japanese, sake is more than just a education, consultation, and promotion.
means to inebriation: it’s an integral part She felt that consumers are often too But Kikuya, echoing the Japanese saying
of religious ritual and celebration, and ready to dismiss the drink after a poor first Nihonshu wa ryori wo erabanai (“sake
holds its place as the national drink. Made sample or improper service, and made it doesn’t fight with food”), is adamant
from polished rice grains, together with her mission to change how people drink that the versatility of sake makes it a
koji (magical fungus to transfer the starch sake in London. suitable bed partner across a range of
into sugar) and water, in a method similar cuisines, not just for Asian dishes. Whilst
-27-Start with...
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020 7100 5520 www.cdgleisure.comsake is lower in acidity than wine, it has something new and support a dying art. In tasting of her national drink. Whilst the
a much higher concentration of amino fact, there are certain similarities between realisation of this dream might be a little
acids that evoke that sense of umami in the boom in the craft ale scene in Europe way off, sake champions such as Kikuya
our mouths. Accordingly, foods high in over the last few years and the potential will give it the drive it needs to inform a
this ‘savouriness’ – red meat, mushroom, rise in sake. Moreover, an increasing sometimes sceptical public that it is one
and particularly cheese – pair very well. number of Japanese breweries are of the most diverse and enjoyable drinks
Case in point: The Rosebery Lounge at including English text on their bottles and around.
the Mandarin Oriental Knightsbridge creating very visual logos for the Western
offers with its (very British) afternoon market, meaning that the consumer will
tea selection a flight of sakes, and at find it easier to identify and, perhaps most
Typing Room sommelier Fred Marti has importantly, remember different kinds of
introduced sake into the beverage pairing sake.
for the restaurant’s tasting menu.
The building of the first sake brewery and
For her dedicated service to the industry, visitor centre in the UK was completed
Kikuya was made a Sake Samurai, an at Fordham Abbey last year, and the
ambassadorial title given to eight or so Hashimoto family behind it plans to sell
people each year who promote sake around ten thousand bottles in the first Callum Edge
internationally. Another Samurai, the twelve months of production – a bold
Where to try:
Canadian techno DJ Richie Hawtin, claim. But whilst there is still a lot of
Sosharu (Masahito Suzuki)
has structured a set “ENTER.” in Ibiza speculation if it will take off as much as
Sushisamba (Maurizio Palomba)
around a sake bar and his own brand its champions feel it could, it is undeniably
KIRU (Christian Pulido)
of sake in collaboration with breweries an exciting for sake here. Kikuya tells me
Typing Room (Fred Marti)
in Japan. It is in settings like this that that over the last ten years, on-trade sales
ROKA Mayfair (Laura Blanchett)
Kikuya believes that sake will integrate here have doubled in number, reaching
well into our culture, and no longer be well over £2m, and the story is just as
Where to buy:
seen as simply a novelty drink served in a promising further afield: with its sizeable
Hedonism Wines
porcelain cup. Japanese population, there is already a
Japan Centre
strong market in the USA, as well as in
Selfridges
With the millennial generation calling Scandinavia and France.
Enotria
for quality products, and spending more
than ever before on going out, sake is still Kikuya has previously said that one @edgeandspoon
an untapped source in the F&B industry. day she dreams of opening a physical
Its handcrafted, small batch nature will “Museum of Sake” that expands on
surely appeal to consumers looking to try the history, the people, and crucially the
Natsuki Kikuya’s recommendations:
Shirakabegura Mio Sparkling DOJIMA Brewery HEAVENSAKE
From one of the biggest sake houses, Takara. A beer and sake-making family from Osaka A Franco-Japanese collaboration coming
Fizzy and sweet, refreshing gooseberry, that moved to Cambridgeshire in order to from Dassai brewery and blended by Regis
elderflower, and vanilla flavours. Only start the UK’s first sake brewery. They aim Camus, the Champagne cellarmaster. The
5% ABV. Good as an aperitif or dessert to release their first batch of Nama-zake Junmai Daiginjo has fully-ripened red fruit
accompaniment as moscato d’asti. (unpasteurised sake) at the end of 2016. characteristics, figs, star anise and cloves.
Issue 7 | Summer 2016 | codehospitality.co.uk
Smooth yet firm and well structured.
Daruma Masamune ENTER.Sake
Made by a tiny, family-run brewery in Gifu The birthchild of Richie Hawtin, DJ and
Prefecture. Specialises in Koshu (aged sake). Sake Samurai, working with boutique sake
Rich, nutty, soy sauce, coffee, and dried fruit producers including Sekiya Brewery, Aramasa
qualities similar to Oloroso sherry. Shuzo and Kokuryu Sake Brewing. Offers a
range from Honjozo to Junmai Daiginjo.
-29--30-
-31-
Issue 7 | Summer 2016 | codehospitality.co.uk
-32-
PETER
in conversation with...
GORDONAdam Hyman sits down with Peter Gordon to
discuss his life in restaurants and celebrating
fifteen years of The Providores and Tapa Room.
I
’d arranged to meet Peter Gordon, career all started thanks to literary agent, Gordon planned to go to Bali for a couple
Felicity Rubenstein who looks after the of kitchen free weeks before heading to
chef and co-owner of Providores, likes of Yotam Ottolenghi and Fergus London via India He ended up staying
on the eve of Her Majesty the Henderson”, says Gordon. “She was a in Indonesia for two months before
Queen’s 90th birthday. Fittingly, regular at the Sugar Club in Notting Hill travelling over to India via Nepal. Over
towards the end of the interview, I and one day came in and said I should do these twelve months, he ended up doing
ask Gordon what one of his fondest a book. After going out to buy a computer contra-deals with locals who wanted to
career highlights has been. He recalls and learn how to use it, I wrote my first know how to cook such things as spaghetti
when he cooked a private dinner for cookbook – The Sugar Club Cookbook - Bolognese and pancakes, as this is what
the Queen. Her Majesty, the Duke of which was published in 1997.” tourists wanted to eat. Gordon-being-a
Edinburgh and Sir Don McKinnon, -chef asked them to teach him to cook
the former Secretary-General of the In 1981 Gordon moved from the New local dishes in return.
Commonwealth, along with his wife Zealand coastal town of Whanganui to
dined together in a private residence Melbourne, where he completed a four- Looking across the table to Gordon, it
and Gordon was the chef. year cooking apprenticeship. “I really strikes me with his surfer-like hair and
wanted to travel, so when I was 15 years earring that he could be quite at home
Born in New Zealand in 1963, Gordon’s old I applied to work as an apprentice in Bali. “It was one of the best twelve
been residing in London since 1989. at Air New Zealand”, notes Gordon. months of my life”, he says. Soon after
Often credited as the ‘godfather’ of fusion “Luckily they never actually gave me the Gordon set foot on UK soil in 1986, he
cuisine, it was thanks to his Antipodean apprenticeship, so I thought what else I received a call from back home saying his
upbringing and extensive travels in Asia could do and after dabbling in a bit of father was ill and he had to return back
that made him the chef he is today. wine making for a while in Australia, I to New Zealand. “My flight was paid for
ended up working as a waiter at an Italian by people I’d never met before but they
owned a restaurant called Sugar Club in
“ After being there for a week or
New Zealand and wanted me to be their
head chef ”, says Gordon.
so, I’d decided I really wanted to As the buzz in Providores picks ups around
us with Marylebone folk enjoying a chilled
glass of white and some snacks, we fast
be a chef.” forward a few years and return to London
when Gordon touched back down from
New Zealand in 1989. However, it wasn’t
until 1995 when he opened Sugar Club
Just as rush hour was commencing restaurant in Melbourne called Mietta’s. in Notting Hill. The year before, his sister
around us in the West End, we settled in After being there for a week or so, I’d Tracey – who was living in Australia – was
Issue 7 | Summer 2016 | codehospitality.co.uk
to a cosy corner in Gordon’s Marylebone decided I really wanted to be a chef.” diagnosed with acute myeloid leukaemia
restaurant that he co-owns with his After Gordon approached the owner one and Gordon was a donor match so he
business partner Michael McGrath, for night about working in the kitchen, she went back to Melbourne to carry out
a glass of Riesling from Central Otago. told him to leave and never come back. the bone marrow transplant. After her
A few weeks earlier, I’d been in the same full recovery, Gordon – along with Chris
restaurant for the launch of Gordon’s “Luckily, through a cousin, I got an Corbin who was diagnosed with chronic
latest cookbook, Savour: salads for all apprenticeship in a restaurant and I myeloid leukaemia at the age of 38 - came
seasons. Nigella Lawson, Russell Norman ended up working alongside MasterChef up with ‘Who’s Cooking Dinner?’ as a
and Richard Bacon were all there to presenter, John Torode”, says Gordon. way to raise money for the charity, Leuka.
celebrate their friend’s eighth publication. “It was at a really interesting time when
Australian food was starting to evolve.” After four years at the helm of the Sugar
“Despite having written my first cookbook Club in London, Gordon left in 1999
at four years of age, my actual cookbook Upon finishing his apprenticeship, to work on some other projects before
-33-You can also read
