MODATEX - Portugal Fashion
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MODATEX Ana Carvalho de Sousa An immersion of the body and emotion. Dance is the most visceral form of expression and release. Fluidity and elegance over rigidity, and the alternative is an integration of contrasting images, combined in this duality that unites the purest essence of movement. The connection between strobe lights and the energy of techno conjures up a visual and audible hemisphere, exalting eroticism, jubilation and trance. The careful technique, along with the delicate, intense movements of classical/contemporary ballet, create a harmonious and emotional composition. For the menswear collection, Past Memories, a new stage was designed, with these two dance concepts as its basis. The classic acclaim is plainly seen in the lines of the clothing, projecting new shapes and details. The collection manifests corporal expression in cuts on the garments, where skin can be seen, and in the plasticity of the materials with different transparencies and textures. The alternative nature is seen in the strong colours allusive of lights and the shapes and materials recalling 1990s clothing. Past Memories recreates two opposing worlds, which complete each other, their imbalance perfectly balanced moments from implosion on a new dance floor, where the clothes establish a connection with the body, as if it were an extension of the music. Cláudia Tavares We are full of scars ... from seams, both in the body and on the planet. I assume in my pieces all this as a NEED to take advantage of the maximum fabric in this collection, to show that we should also take advantage of the maximum of us. What matters is that the sewing is well done and that everything is ESSENTIAL. Daniela Antunes elogio do erro____andar, abraçar, is the name of this collection and it comes from the movements of moving and embracing, part of the primordial lexicon of humanity which gave rise to it. Closely linked to a poetic construction that involves the relationship between the body and space, special attention is paid to knitwear, as it is here, with the intertwining of the yarn and its loops, moving and embracing itself, bringing out the shape of the clothes. Worked in exaggerated volumes, particularly in the soft and comforting mohair knit balloon sleeves, emphasising the movements of the arms, raised in search of an EMBRACE. As a metaphor for the verb ANDAR (to walk/move), the collection advances through the textile manipulation of yarns, threads and ribbons, which are seen as intertwined journeys, creating fabrics that again take hold of the volumes created previously. There is also space for a process that exalts the idea of Try again. Fail again. Fail better (Beckett), moving away from the conventional industrial method of designing items of clothing. Inês Bompastor “João”, is the name of a great human being, head lifeguard and fisherman - my grandfather. It is the name of this collection that comes from the infancy, the roots, from my origins. It seeks to pay homage to the most important man in my life, not forgetting all the men who were taken by the sea of Caxinas, just like all the men and women on land who, always united, accept the pain of the loss of those gone, staying strong and agile to overcome what the sea sometimes takes from them. My pride. As this is a women's collection, it uses the image of the women of Caxinas - strong, determined women, the protective shield of their men. Black, the colour of mourning , is the key colour in the collection. Along with faded-looking primary colours. The waterproof, heat-bonded materials used have localised or all-over prints.
Inês Cesariny This collection has as it’s inspiration the medieval art of entertainment that is bullfighting. It takes advantage of the beautiful clothing worn by thetoreros that is thorn out by the bulls in an atempt to fight or their life and mixes it with the shapes and volumes created by the torero’s capote. The goal of this collection is to make people talk about this subject, to cause a reaction, it is the brand’s way to try and make an impact through clothing. Inês Oliveira Working with fashion is not so simple as I thought it would be.But at this point, I just think about things or subjects that makes people feel unconfortable with. That’s how I started this fashion project which the first though was: “I want to make people feel (UN)confortable“. So the theme cames up with something common, ordinary, (un)controllable. Phobias. By transforming fashion into a mental state and by utilizing translucent and glossy as the key elements to build the collection, (UN)PHOBIAC achieves a characterful result boasting sensual, sexual as well as intellectual childish flair. Joana Aranha The most beautiful thing a family can leave is its legacy, which is eternal. It repeats itself, flowing like waves down through the generations. Just like these descend one from the other, so too does each coordinate in this collection. Lara Gorgulho Digital_Bloom.exe is a reflection of the influence that my parents - growing up in the 1960s - had on my aesthetics, and the culture that was instilled in me throughout my childhood. Science fiction films, modern art and the space age are thus the essence of this imaginarium. The things rounding out my identity as an adult included Anime, Technology, Cyberpunk and Internet art, which led me to seek out a femininity that was explored through the raw materials and range of colours. The lines between the real and the virtual are increasingly blurred and the technology boom that we face led me to design fantastical clothes, with silhouettes that redesign the body and turn classics like the blazer on their heads. The silhouettes are clean, but with organic, curved shapes, elevated by quality raw materials. Inspired by Glitch and Datamoshing, I focused on exploring the materials and colours that stand out digitally on a screen. The raw materials and the techniques such as embroidery and matelassé recall digital noise, but also the organic shapes of interplanetary surfaces and the inside of space ships. As digital aesthetics gain ground, I reinterpreted floral patterns through embroidery, mixing this with prints where the highlight is the pixel, as well as other references like airport departures and arrivals information boards. Digital_Bloom.exe thus reflects my vision of womenswear and how it interacts with the technological process of today. Maria Bouçanova Self Portrait, a Pre-Fall menswear collection, classic in nature and influenced by tailoring, offers a view of the brain itself. For this collection, Self Reflected by Greg Dunn and Brian Edwards served to shed light on the nature of human consciousness, uniting the mysterious brain and the microscopic nature of neurons. In this way, Self Portrait offers a vision of the enormous reach of neural choreography, projected to reflect what is happening in our minds. Self Portrait was designed as a reminder that the most wonderful machine in the universe is at the centre of our being and is the root of humanity.
MODATEX MODATEX – Professional Training Centre for the Textile, Clothing, Apparel and Wool Industry – was set up in 2011, through an agreement between the Employment and Professional Training Institute (IEFP), the Textile and Clothing Association of Portugal (ATP), the National Association of Clothing Manufacturers (ANIVEC/APIV) and the National Association of Wool Industries (ANIL). This national Centre, with headquarters in Porto, branches in Lisbon and Covilhã, and centres in Vila das Aves and Barcelos, aims to contribute to better strategic and operational coordination of training in the sector, to respond more effectively to qualification needs and towards improving and re-training people and organisations, as well as to provide close, technical support to all the players in the Textile and Clothing Industry. The activities of MODATEX include: Professional Training; the Provision of Services (training and technical advice for companies in the sector); New Opportunities Centre; Technical Testing Laboratory; Workshops and Seminars; National and International Projects. Creativity, skill and proximity are the factors that underpin and set apart the training and consultancy services offered by MODATEX. CONTACTS e. geral@modatex.pt t. 226 152 500 f. 226 103 574 w. www.modatex.pt f. www.facebook.com/modatex.portugal l. https://pt.linkedin.com/in/marketingmodatex
SOFIA SILVA BONDING The idea for this collection came from my relationship with my twin sister. It explores duality and symmetry just as it shows the ties of love between the two of us. The collection explores the existence of two bodies. It makes our emotional connection physical through rings and shows the caring side through pastel colours, but it is also inspired by the more scientific part of the subject, using the cell division present in the fertilisation of twins, which is where the circular shapes in the project come from. Yellow appears as a colour that symbolises the presence of my sister, because it's one of the colours that best characterises her. SOFIA SILVA Sofia Vieira da Silva is a Fashion Design student at Escola de Moda do Porto. Her interest for the fashion industry began in her teen years, having decided to study and pursue the area. Sofia won the first place at Novos Criadores PFN contest, which leads her to present her collection at Bloom's FW19-20 edition. CONTACTS e. sofiavieirasilvacardoso@gmail.com t. 910956045
ASHMA KARKI TRASHMA The clothing created by Ashma Karki for BLOOM FW19-20 shows a profound influence on our habits, our surroundings and the environment we contaminate, thus connecting with the theme "TRASH". The main goal is to show how the welfare and happiness of mankind have been so centralized in artificial material, for example in the excessive use of plastic. Unfortunately, I consider this materialistic "happiness" to be affecting humanity and the earth. TRASHMA represents a wake-up call, a manifesto, for the excess of garbage. It was developed conceptually, as well as a volume level, through the interpretation of a plastic garbage bag. The cord represents the care toward garbage, the way it's tied. The size and shape of the piece are exaggeratedly wide, reinforcing the clutter of garbage that contaminates the world but giving freedom of movement to those who wear it, representing this "freedom" the hope that each of us can, on a daily basis, have an account for this chaos to end. The presented materials are the waste product of fabric company, Tintex, and Tricolor which is versatile, very pleasant to the skin and comfortable to use. It was given a bonding fabric finish by Coltec company which combines the various colored fabric together which shows the light of hope that we can change this world together. ASHMA KARKI The 'TRASHMA' is about caring and loving, our world also promoting awareness through design. Its main objective is inspired by the nature, pollution and lifestyle of human kind. This designer is all the way from Nepal, hoping and aiming to show how a little young fashion designer from a small country like Nepal can influence the Western World. She has performed in many contests like Jovens Criadores 2018, Troficolor Denim Young Contest 2018 and won the contestant of Concurso Novos Criadores PFN - 2ª Edição 2018. Ashma's 2017/18 winter creation has been exhibited in the Bienal de Cerveira on August 2018 and Première Vision Paris on 18th September 2018. CONTACTS e. ashmakarki18@gmail.com t. 938230706
RITA SÁ “The shoemaker's children are the worst shod” is the theme of the FW19/20 collection, which describes a person who has certain skills but does not use them for their own benefit. The same job done by the same individual reveals a paradox between what is done with zeal and commitment when it is done for others and, on the other hand, with no effort or investment when it is done for themselves. Perhaps due to a lack of time? Or because they can't be bothered? As they don't see it as a priority, they prefer to take it easy, not taking advantage of what they are capable of doing. For want of something better, they end up settling for less effective solutions that are not suited to certain tasks. This idea is materialised in the use of items which, out of the context of their original functions, are used for doing things other than those they were designed for. As the problems arise, you can see how the character prefers a quick fix rather than investing time in solving the problem. This is reflected in an attitude of lack of concern and complacency. Details of incomplete items reveal the lack of commitment felt in relation to their image and their needs. The silhouette also gradually becomes less concerned. The result of this attitude is an image that doesn't live up to what would be expected, careless and cobbled together. RITA SÁ Rita Rodrigues de Sá, born July 7th 1996, finished her degree in Fashion Design at Escola Superior de Artes e Design (ESAD) in the year 2016/2017. In July of 2017 she won the second place of the contests Jovens Criadores PFN and Jovens Criadores i9Jovem. Having developed several projects during her degree, her final collection "Diz-Orientation" stands out for having allowed Rita to be one of the selected finalists for the October 2017 edition of the Sangue Novo contest, by ModaLisboa. Rita was awarded a honorable mention in the same contest and was able to participate in the March 2018 edition, presenting the collecton "Telhados de Vidro", which granted her another honorable mention. She was distinguished with the FASHIONCLASH award, which allowed her to present her collection in Maastricht, Holand, last june. In this same city, Rita won the Vancouver Fashion Week award and will present the collection in the Vancouver Fashion Week, in Canada. In December 2017 Rita was invited to be one of the three portuguese representants for the Moda Portugal Fashion Design Competition, where nine countries participated. With the collection "Telhados de Vidro", Rita Sá also became one of the finalists for the contest REBELPIN - Fashion Awards by ACTE, which happened in Berlin, Germany, last July. CONTACTS e. ritasabrand@gmail.com t. +351 960 302 377
CAROLINA SOBRAL
DECONSTRUCTION
Deconstruction is the name of the collection inspired by the work of
German photographer Ralf Brueck.
His work consists of digital image manipulation, where the
predominant colours of the photograph are highlighted and an
elongated, distorted effect is created.
This will be the basis of the collection developed for next fall-winter.
Loose, fluid silhouettes, total looks with different textures within the
same shade, recreating the idea of distortion and elongation.
Deconstruction represents a feminine woman, while always keeping
contemporary aesthetics.
CAROLINA SOBRAL
Carolina Sobral completed her degree in Fashion Design at the Higher Institute of Art and Design in 2014, the year when
she had a fashion show at Portugal Fashion's Bloom, representing that institute. The same year, she won the Loja "The”
award at the 10th Acrobatic, third place in the Modtíssimo PFN Young Designers competition and she had a fashion
show at Portugal Fashion's Bloom, through ESAD. Also in 2014, she was selected for the Young Designers competition
and took part in the Modtíssimo New Talents Forum in 2015.
CONTACTS
e. carolinasobralbrand@gmail.com
i._carolinasobral
f. carolinasobral.cs
ARIEIV
RAGE
Embryo Bank, saved. Guaranteeing the continuation of HUMANITY in
a new planetary system that is unknown at environmental level. But
an extremely technological area where this bank of entities is to be
found.
Genderless embryos.
DATA: they will have to survive on an inverse spherical platform;
they will have to create elite communities for an indefinite period of
time;
GOAL: self-reproduction – generating¦creating a new civilisation.
RAGE: reflects the personality of the entities generated from the
genderless embryo bank. Allowing fragments of genetic memory to
show through, revealing different needs.
Note: all embryos with "gender" come from female chromosomes.
All the beings are female. Only later in the process do they develop
the male chromosome.
Do not go gentle into that good night
Dylan Thomas, 1914 - 1953
Do not go gentle into that good night,
Old age should burn and rave at close of day;
Rage, rage against the dying of the light.
Though wise men at their end know dark is right,
Because their words had forked no lightning they
Do not go gentle into that good night.
Good men, the last wave by, crying how bright
Their frail deeds might have danced in a green bay,
Rage, rage against the dying of the light.
Wild men who caught and sang the sun in flight,
And learn, too late, they grieved it on its way,
Do not go gentle into that good night.
Grave men, near death, who see with blinding sight
Blind eyes could blaze like meteors and be gay,
Rage, rage against the dying of the light.
And you, my father, there on the sad height, Curse, bless, me now with your fierce tears, I pray. Do not go gentle into that good night. Rage, rage against the dying of the light. ARIEIV ARIEIV is the name of José Pinto's brand, a Fashion Design student at Escola de Moda do Porto. After being a part of Hugo Costa's team in his show at Paris Fashion Week, as a stylist and assistent, José Pinto presented his final course collection in Bloom's SS19 edition and is now participating in BLOOM UPLOAD, on the FW19-20 edition. CONTACTS e. josepintovieira63@gmail.com t. 910860226 i. @_ariev_ f. arieiv
JOÃO SOUSA
A Usually society does not to accept difference! Whether it is
a person's sexual orientation, somebody's professional
choices, birthmarks or a disease. This world forces people to
live in the background, to take refuge in an ideal of perfection
where they know they will never be accepted! In the quest for
an ideal manipulated by photo editing programs, of a type
created on social media.
Refuge turns on the lights and lightens the background!
Refuge celebrates diversity, unity! A world where a birth flower
is a mark on the body of each person, where freckles are
looked at like royalty, where diseases such as vitiligo become
unheard of, where spots and marks that appear as an
individual grows become heterogenous.
This collection journeys through the lens of American
photographer Peter Devito, who recorded the beauty of
difference, who captured birthmarks and presented the
statements of many unique people who suffer because they're
different, who feel they are in the shadows because they're
beautiful!
“The marks on my skin do not define me; they do not make me
ugly; they do not make me weak. On the contrary, I'm stronger, more confident and beautiful. “
In this photographic film, words like ghost were used for albinism. Questions like “Why are you like that?” define
a person with freckles, “Does that hurt?”; “What's wrong with your skin?”; “Nobody's going to marry you with
that skin”!” refer to the marks left by vitiligo, “Why are you black?” “You can't be black”; “You can't speak English”
are some of the comments made to black people, the Chinese and people from different cultures.
This collection presents an ideal of perfection through the single colour of the coordinates, white. Throughout
this story, colours, finishes and volumes are introduced, representing our uniqueness, the marks we bear, our
differences.JOÃO SOUSA João Sousa was born on 10th June 2000, a holiday that celebrates an important Portuguese writer. Maybe his birthday influenced his artistic side. In 2015, at the age of 15, João moves to Porto and starts his Fashion Design degree at Escola de Moda do Porto. Although he began his jorney knowing nothing about the fashion industry and, in only three years João grew up and learned everyday about enriching subjects. This learning experience gave him the opportunity to present his final collection, which was very appreciated by internal and external judges. He had the chance to participate in an internship at Denim Heavy Jeans and to develop some items for the FW18-19 and SS19 collection. Fashion is a subject that João always enjoyed since his childhood, coming from a family that is linked to the areas of production, photography and event organization. The creative process is something that fascinates and transforms him, loving both to draw and to write. João had the opportunity to participate in several national competitions, such as Namorar Portugal and Vestido Chita. In 2017 he became one of the ten finalists of the Paulo Ribeiro International Competition by Pizarro and in 2018 won the Jovens Criadores PFN contest, which allowed him to present his first SS19 collection at the Bloom platform. In this year, João has become one of the 20 finalists of the Troficolor Denim contest. He had the opportunity to participate in several national competitions such as Namorar Portugal and Vestido Chita. In 2017 he became one of the 10 finalists of the Paulo Ribeiro International Competition by Pizarro and in 2018 wins his first competition, one of the most important in Portugal, the "New Creators PFN" that will lead him to present his first collection in Bloom. Still this year he becomes one of the 20 finalists of the Troficolor Denim contest with his project. CONTACTS e. joaopedrosousa2000@gmail.com t. 916 075 043
MARA FLORA
For Fall/Winter 2019, Mara Flora evokes the
Coming-of-Age concept which, in the literary
field, is synonymous with the German word
Bildungsroman. This narrative exposes a person's
process of development, whether physical,
moral, psychological, aesthetic, social or political.
The aim is to intimately explore these changes,
capturing the vulnerability that comes with
growth and self-perception, and sensuality
clashing with innocence. In a language intended
to give shape to these emotions,
disproportionate and strategically placed
volumes are used, as well as experimental
exercises in the visual field.
MARA FLORA
Mara Flora is a clothing brand based in Lisbon, created by its eponymous designer. Mara graduated from Faculdade de
Arquitectura da Universidade de Lisboa in 2014. On March 2018 she was one of the winners of Bloom Portugal Fashion
competition for young designers.
Mara Flora takes inspiration from real life and contemporary culture while pursuing an experimental, sustainable and,
somehow, subversive attitude towards fashion. The intent is to convey new narratives through a wardrobe that combines
avant-garde, workwear and streetwear.
CONTACTS
e. mara.flora.c@gmail.comMARIA MEIRA
INFORMIS
Contradictory ideas meet in the construction of a collection that
explores shape and volume as an initial and final concept. Silhouettes
arising from sculpted shapes and surprising, amorphous volumes
brought the first designs, which developed into unexpected and, up to
a certain point, unpredictable items.
The palette of colours chosen is consistent with previous collections,
with black being the dominant colour. However, there is a film reference
that involves the revelation of a colourful element in an atmosphere
where the absence of colour is predominant. Thus, in the collection too,
colours appears as a way of increasing the contrast between volumes,
contributing to the creation of the surprise element in the clothing.
MARIA MEIRA
Maria Meira completed her degree in Fashion Design at the Higher Institute of Art and Design (ESAD) in 2017. The same
year, she took part in the Santa Maria da Feira Young Designers Competition. She was one of the winners of the Bloom
Contest in the FW18-19 edition of Portugal Fashion, March 2018.
The brand Maria Meira wants to be contemporary, alternative and adaptable, so it can please a young and fashionable
Audience.
CONTACTS
e. by.mariameira@gmail.com
t. 9148666DANIELA PEREIRA
BASOTHO
-BASOTHO- is a collection inspired by the African Basotho tribe
and 1990s Hip Hop.
The African tribe is expressed in the collection through the strong
colours amidst dark colours. The inspiration is even stronger
because of the way the tribe presents itself, wearing blankets and
balaclavas. These garments will be present in the collection,
which also has details making reference to the tribe.
Hip Hop is expressed through the key items of the theme,
oversized jumpers, baggy shorts, bomber jackets, etc. This theme
will also be visible in the styling of the collection.
DANIELA PEREIRA
ANIELA PEREIRA was born in 1994. She studied visual arts at the Agrupamento Muralhas do Minho school. She graduated
in Fashion Design from Porto Fashion School. In the first year she won 1st prize in the Tecido das Chitas Competition. She
completed her professional internship at the Haider Ackermann Studio in Antwerp. After the internship, Daniela was one
of the finalists of the New Blood Contest in the October 2017 edition. Daniela particularly likes Menswear, placing great
value on the trims, details and finishes of the pieces. She seeks to represent a different perspective of the male fashion
sector, always maintaining quality and comfort. The themes of the collections are one of the most important parts for
Daniela. She seeks to attract curiosity and interest among the public to find out what is behind the collection and to
advocate the same values of the story being worn.
CONTACTS
e. danielavelosopereira@gmail.com
t. 962254747JÚLIO TORCATO
File #001 - Wake Up
The impact of Man on nature is a determining factor for the
accelerated increase in the number of endangered species.
Research shows that around 1 million species of animals will
have disappeared by 2050. In 31 years' time. Uncontrolled and
recreational hunting and fishing, deforestation, global warming
and pollution destroy habitats and ecosystems. Over the last
thousands of years, many species have become extinct.
Awareness must be raised, listening to what the planet is asking
for.
The Fall/Winter 19/20 collection, in the new presentation format,
is a symbolic, small-scale wakeup call for a much bigger
problem; it is our way of making a contribution. Ten outfits in
greens and blacks, electric blue and moss green, burgundy and
grey. In materials such as eco leather, recycled polyester,
cotton, wool and jersey knits.JÚLIO TORCATO Júlio Torcato completed his course in fashion at the Porto Fashion, Art and Techniques Academy in 1989. That same year he won the Portex (Spring/Summer) contest for young designers. This was followed by other awards, including the 1st Design award for Industrial Portex. He then began taking part in international trade shows, the first of which was Shem, in Paris, where he exhibited from 1989 to 1993. Since then, his name has been present at the main national fashion events, such as Moda Lisboa and later, Portugal Fashion. He also took part in several national and international fashion shows. In 1992, he opened his own fashion design and consultancy office, aimed at providing support to the textile and clothing industry. He has been responsible for the design and image of several national companies and labels, of note being Decénio, Queens, Lion of Porches, Salsa and Red Oak. At the same time, he has also developed his own label, "Júlio Torcato”. In 2008, he began the process of internationalising his label with the support of Associação Seletiva Moda Association. Of note were his participations in Poznan, Poland, in Brno, the Czech Republic, in São Paulo, Brazil, at the Angola Fashion Week in Luanda, Angola, at the Mozambique Fashion Week in Maputo, Mozambique and at the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week in Madrid, Spain. He is a regular member of contest juries, in particular Acrobactic and Modtíssimo. He was president of the International Jury for the IAF (International Apparel Federation) Award, which was part of the 28th World Fashion Convention. He is regularly invited to take part in conferences and lectures, of note being the "M & M – Marketing and Fashion 2006” conference at the Lisbon Technical University’s Faculty of Architecture, the "Textile Engineering Talks” at Beira Interior University, the "Santo Tirso International Seminar – Cultural Quarters: Experiences and Challenges” and the "Sustainable and Inclusive International Design Conference” in Guimarães. He has been lecturing at Beira Interior University since 2007, on the Fashion Design Master’s Degree Project. His work is mentioned in publications such as "Porto Cenários de Moda” (published by Porto 2001, S.A.), in the "Moda Portuguesa” book by Cristina Duarte and several articles in the national and foreign press. CONTACTS e. info@juliotorcato.com t. 223 233 159 w. http://www.juliotorcato.com f. http://www.facebook.com/juliotorcato
HUGO COSTA
MAYBE WE’LL BE TOGETHER AGAIN
What's left when the barriers keep us from walking? What do we
become when the world becomes more violent and hatred grows
with each passing day?
How can we respect ourselfs if we are more distant from each
other?
Freedoms cutted, walls raised and attitudes extremed. The
physical distance that will weaken emotional and sentimental
relations among people.
What do we believe in when everything seems to make us
discredit?
Who knows, one day we'll be together again, we'll write on what's
left of the Berlin Wall.
Maybe someday we'll be together again.
Maybe someday freedom is for everyone.
Maybe someday the world becomes a more respectful and
democratic place.
What remains when the dream is gone, beyond a severe present?
HUGO COSTA
Hugo Hugo Costa concluded, in 2008, the course in Fashion and Textile Design at the Higher School of Applied Arts of the
Polytechnic Institute of Castelo Branco. In 2006, he was one of the finalists of the Acrobatic Contest, where he won the
award for Best Male Coordinate in 2009 and 2010, and on that final year he also won the title of "Best Collection". In March
2007, Hugo Costa won the first prize in the competition for new uniforms for the Walmart company. That same year, he
was selected for the final of the Contest AF-Competition. In 2011, he was one of the winners of the Children's Fashion From
Portugal award. He has been developing collections of clothing and illustration of prints for several national companies,
including Cutting, BECIGbasilius, LCDInnovation and Design, Dicapri, CPM-Creation and Promotion of Fashion and
Confeções Bugalhos. He also developed footwear collections for companies like Landina and Artur Pinho.. Hugo Costa’s
collections, under his own name, have been displayed at the Portugal Fashion Bloom platform since October 2010. In
June 2016, he made his international and individual début at Paris Fashion Week Menswear, with Portugal Fashion’s
support, the same event where he returned in January 2017.
CONTACTS
t. 256 004 182
e. info@hugocosta.pt
w. http://www.hugocosta.comMARIA GAMBINA NANCY For FW20, Maria Gambina is presenting Nancy, a collection with retro influences in a ski resort environment. Ski suits become delicate dresses using technical materials with references to timeless garments, such as windcheaters. Box pleats recall quilted jackets, and blush highlights basic details of the clothes. Details like micro Vichy squares, knits and the graphic use of jacquards reinforce the retro side of the collection, but in a more contemporary attitude. Pleats resembling the scratches left by ice skates, crackle effects like people playing in the snow, take us to an elegant, feminine universe, but always with a very cool, personal attitude. The colours are burgundy, ecru, white, burnt yellow, luminous coral/red, with notes of orange, green and light blue. Partners: TINTEX (sustainable knits with different, creative finishes), LEMAR (technical materials), RDD (delicate knits with innovative finishes) and TROFICOLOR (denim).
MARIA GAMBINA Maria Cristina Lopes was born in Oliveira de Azeméis on 3 April 1969. She got her degree in Fashion Design at CITEX 92 and her long and varied career as a designer is highlighted by taking part in national and international events and winning a number of first prizes in design competitions [including the Sangue Novo (new blood) competition promoted by ModaLisboa in 1992 and again in 1993]. In partnership with José António Tenente, she won the competition for the design and conception of the staff uniforms of EXPO-98 in Lisbon. She won the Designer of the Year’97 award from Look Elite and, in 1998, the Golden Globe in the Personality of the YearFashion category. In 2000, with her MUSIC IS MY LIFE collection, she won the award for the best women's collection promoted by ModaLisboa and, in 2008, she took 1st prize in the competition for the design of the uniforms for the Belmiro de Azevedo COLÉGIO EFANOR school in Porto. In 2011, her work was recognised in a retrospective called “As Saias da Maria”, promoted by Matosinhos Municipal Council and ESAD. She was the designer chosen to represent Portugal, as Portuguese ambassador, in the Euro-Fashion/Fashion ft. Football 2012 project in Ukraine. At the same time, since 1994, she has been teaching Fashion Design, beginning in CITEX and moving on to other institutions like CENATEX, at the Porto Fashion School and more recently in ESAD (Matosinhos Higher Institute of Art and Design) where she was a Coordinator and Teacher on the Project II Course Unit for the bachelor's degree course in Fashion Design. Her students have included Nuno Baltazar, Paulo Cravo, Katty Xiomara, Ricardo Andrez, and now there's a new generation of up-and-coming young designers, David Catalán, Tânia Nicole, Inês Torcato, Olimpia Davide, Beatriz Bettencourt, Joana Braga, Rita Sá and Gonçalo Peixoto. Maria Gambina, the label created in 1993, has taken part in numerous projects and challenges launched by brands, companies and institutions, on a journey connected both to fashion and music, which then connects with each other. CONTACTS Loja Rua Fonte da Luz, nº 197 4150 – 753 Porto – Portugal Atelier Mercado de Matosinhos, Atelier nº 14 R. França Júnior 4450 - 131 Matosinhos – Portugal e. mariagambina@gmail.com
INÊS TORCATO
Artigo 1º.
All human beings are born free and equal in dignity and in rights. Gifted
with reason and conscience, they must treat others in a spirit of
fraternity.
The soul is that which is interior, fragility and strength. It is the source, that
which is the purest of each one of us. Article 1 speaks of the human being
and of imperfection, of the soul and of the skin, of compassion and pain,
of those who love and those who do not. It is a manifestation of what
should be, of a free and equal world.
A continuous exploration and formal deconstruction of the classics of
men's and women's clothing, in a reinterpretation present in the
materials, shapes and details.
INÊS TORCATO
Inês Torcato, born in Porto, completed her bachelor's degree course in Fashion Design at ESAD Matosinhos in 2014.
Previously, she had attended Soares dos Reis School of Arts and the University of Porto Faculty of Fine Arts, which had
major influence on the aesthetic and experimental language of her work. In 2013, she won second prize in the “Nespresso
Designer’s Contest”. The following year, she won first prize in the “L’Aiguille D’Or” competition by Atelier des Createurs.
That same year, she presented her collection at Portugal Fashion's Bloom. In 2015, she won the “Best Collection” award,
attributed by the public, and the “Best Pair of Women's Shoes” at the AcrobActic competition with her “Ícaro” collection,
which she was later invited to display at Anabela Baldaque's shop in Lisbon. In 2016, she was one of the winners of
Portugal Fashion's Bloom Competition, where she took second place. She also won the Vogue award, attributed by the
public at the Porto Fashion Film Festival with the film "Icarus". In February 2017 edition of Vogue Talents, her name was
referenced. In the same month, she was invited to participate in Pitti Super fair, at the “Super Talents” platform, in
partnership with Vogue Italia. There, Inês Torcato showed her collection that it’s going to be presented at Bloom space,
during 40 Portugal Fashion. In 2018, Inês Torcato participated in Altaroma’s fashion week and is now a part of Portugal
Fashion’s main calendar.
CONTACTS
Rua Sacadura Cabral, 118 4050-529 Porto
t. 911 525 556
e. info@inestorcato.com | sales@inestorcato.comSARA MAIA
6ª collection Sara*Maia,
Dichotomy real vs not real, inspired by movements from
this conflict from belongings e from the consumer
experience. Everything is real and everything is possible.
This collection tells stories from day-to-day city life, from
cycles and from the endless possibilities.
SARA MAIA
Sara Maia was born in Porto in 1989. The young designer began her academic career in the fashion area when she
attended
the Porto Fashion School. After finishing her course in 2008, she went to Citex the same year, where she completed her
graduation in Fashion Design 2011. She then began working with several designers on the national fashion scene, such as
Ricardo Dourado and Lidija Kolovrat. In 2012, Sara Maia won the first prize of Bloom Competition, organised by Portugal
Fashion. Then, she moved to London, where she worked with several labels (Marques´Almeida, Aitor Throup, Maharishi).
In 2015, Sara Maia presented her first collection at Bloom space. She is currently working in Lisbon.
CONTACTS
e. saramaia.studio@gmail.com
w. saramaia.netESTELITA MENDONÇA ESTELITA MENDONÇA After graduating from Oporto Fashion Academy in 2007, Estelita Mendonça started working on his first collection and finally debuted his eponymous label in 2010. He has since been presenting his collections at Bloom fashion show within the Portugal Fashion initiative. Estelita Mendonça was awarded Best Young Talent at the Fashion Institute Awards in Portugal, in 2012. Also in the same year, the designer showed his first international shows in Matadero, Madrid and Vienna Fashion Week. More recently, during February 2016, Estelita Mendonça won an Honourable Best Designer mention at the Bloom International Fashion Showcase which took place at Somerset House, in London.Estelita Mendonça shares concerns through the design and communication of his collections. Through each season, the designer hopes to translate a strong and current message to the individual wearing the designs, as they embody Estelita’ statement to the outside world. In January 2017, he made his début at Altaroma, with Portugal Fashion’s Support CONTACTS e. estelitamendonca@gmail.com w. http://estelitamendonca.tumblr.com/
SOPHIA KAH
TIGER SOULS
ParaFor Autumn Winter 2019, Sophia Kah builds on the brand’s DNA of
effortless dressing which concentrates on the elaborate detail of the
craftsmanship. By cultivating a dynamic and alluring capsule, the
Sophia Kah woman is portrayed as desiring a little subversiveness to
her sartorial elegance.
The collection is a testament to Sophia Kah’s innovative flair for
reworking classic fabrics as showcased through the predominantly
silk georgette, chiffon and satin bases often overlayed with intricate
French lacing. The latter is best translated on a mini bustier dress with
velvet halter neck, as well as through the brand’s trademark
Sophia coat dress both sporting sequined tiger emblems expressive
of the collection’s muse. A powerful, courageous, dynamic women
whose spirit is inspired by the tigeress.
Sophia Kah encourages a sense of self-curated style with an
adaptation tailored of separates, from split flared trousers with
waterfall hemming to a versatile trench whose button detailing alludes
to portuguese gold coins and can be worn solo or layered over one of
the mesh cocktail dresses for a nighttime engagement.
Whilst the blacks and midnight blues of the collection lend themselves
to the gothic nature of theme, flashes of vibrant fuschia and scarlett explore a sultrier narrative.
Further playfulness is injected through the fluidity of a silk georgette gown with na empire waistline cinched
with a contrasting black velvet band, and a mid-length daytime version with a high neckline and gathering
at the waistline to resemble corseting.
Sophia Kah offers more demure silhouettes for evening wear in the form of showstopping black long-sleeved
fishtail gowns with polka dot lace-panelling, and midnight velvet floor-length wrap dress in a shimmery gloss
which reiterates the asymmetric cut of various necklines.SOPHIA KAH Ana Sophia launched her first collection in february 2011 expressing a philosophy that encompasses contemporary luxury, timeless modernity and an artful sense of glamour. Sophia who had always been fascinated by fabrics and laces, was introduced to the art of crafting garments at a very early age from the moments lived on the textile factory, founded by her grandmother, from whom she learned techniques that are older than memory and methods so new that are considered trade secrets. Inspired by a desire to create beautifully constructed clothes together with her lively insatiable curiosity and a constant quest for innovation, with no formal fashion training, sophia immersed herself at the time in the supremely skilled, local manufacturers in Portugal. The importance of quality, expert craftsmanship and attention to detail resonated deeply, informing Sophia Kah's core philosophy. With a signature look of clean silhouettes and inherent integrity each piece is impeccably crafted from the finest materials available and approached from a design standpoint of form and function. Sophia Kah’s collections are for the customers who appreciate real luxury, beautiful fabrics and the perfect detail. The consistency in quality and design have distinguished Sophia Kah as a brand that is shaping silhouettes of the most influential women worldwide. CONTACTS SOPHIA KAH LIMITED Rua de Revinhade, 499 4650-373 Felgueiras Portugal e. press@sophiakah.co.uk | sales@sophiakah.co.uk t. +351 255 340 875 f. https://www.facebook.com/SophiaKah/ i. https://www.instagram.com/sophiakah/
KATTY XIOMARA
MARIA MIMOSA
“Looking to the future” is a preeminent
necessity that is often invoked in the
aesthetic sense what fashion represents. But
to truly look to the future, is it not essential to
decipher the clues that the past has offered
us? As progressive as our feelings may be,
we must admit that today would be a void
without yesterday and in this order of ideas,
tomorrow would be a continuous line in
space.
I was recently put to the challenge of making
a capsule collection for Hello Kitty. Like me,
she was born in 1974 which means that we
both celebrate our 45 years in 2019. I realized
that we share the year and the way our
names are written, but I also found other similarities between Kitty's universe and mine. Kitty was born by
Sanrio's hand in Japan, but with a background story where she is portrayed as an English girl. I was born in
the heart of a Portuguese family, but in the temperate climate of South America. This made me remember
and live memories of my childhood.
I remember playing more outside than in the house. Even in an urban context I was always surrounded by a
lot of nature, maybe it is the natural result of belonging to an analogue generation, but also because I lived
in a desirable climate.
Particularly, I remember a curious plant that when touched closed its leaves, to me it was a Sleeping Beauty,
but today I know that the most common denomination is Mimosa Pudica. Associated with this plant there is
a legend of Filipino origin, the story of an extremely shy girl named Mary. The legend tells of a tragic village
invasion, forcing Mary's parents to hide her in the forest, passing the turmoil the parents seek for the girl but
in her place, they only found a plant of small leaves and beautiful pink flowers that when touched closed all
its leaves in a fast movement. They assumed the idea that such a timid plant could only be their Maria.
I let my clothes speak for me, daring on the garments letting it express what I couldn't with words and initiative.
I had my shy side and my daring side without words, so this plant and this story tells me a lot.
Looking back on my teenage years and thinking about my reality as being a woman, I realize that at the
same time the reality of women in Portugal was different.
Even though I was within a culture of a macho nature, I was already benefiting from the claims of equality
achieved by the feminist movements of liberation, which were germinating throughout the world,
fundamentally between the 60s and 70s.
The attitudes that follow us in growth are installed in our subconscious and are moulding us as people.
Today in Portugal and in the world, women are seen with greater respect, more than 45 years ago but there
are still many attitudes to re-educate to achieve true equality of opportunity.I decided that I could somehow honour these women who have done so much for me in the past. This is a collection of reflection, of longing, of passion and gratitude. I do not have the capacity that these women had to raise their voices, but I would like to leave my testimony translated into a fashion formula. On the other hand, by looking at the past in this more personal way I realised that many of the things that made me vibrate in fashion were disappearing - No longer do they "flirt" the pieces for months before they decide to buy, they do not last for 20 years intact, no longer pass from sister to sister. Today we consume far above our needs. Fashion must change its way of producing, seducing, selling, and buying. We stop caring about the durability, we want garments for today and not for tomorrow, we want 10 instead of one, we want latest fashion trends in the shortest possible time. I have argued that in fashion, applying the term sustainability is somewhat ambitious and to some extent utopian. This is because in addition to being one of the most polluting industries, we are also extremely dependent. It is difficult to follow the production trail from the start, its most basic elements, from fibre, yarn, weaving, dyeing, cutting, manufacturing / confectioning, packaging, distribution and so on … But I realise that in small things we can make a difference and I believe that the most important thing is to re-educate the consumer, to stop being a consumer and become a client. This is how our “Maria Reverberada” is born - a simple construction cape/cover with use of 100% of the fabric, which allows us multiple use, with 3 different positions. In short, this collection is a great "Pot-purri" of memories - on one hand we have Kitty, the Mimosa Pudica, Mary and the strength of women, and the urge to look to the future recognising what the past has taught us. It is a collection with simple and feminine shapes with strong and explosive colours and a great mix of materials, brightness and textures, that reveal this profusion of memories and different ideas. This year we want to show the winter collection 2019/2020 in a different formula that goes beyond fashion. Driven by Sanrio's invitation to create a mini commemorative collection for Hello Kitty's 45th anniversary, which by the way will also be mine, I awakened to a whole list of memories. Among them is the most obvious, the fact that I am a woman and that nowadays I'm able to be, and to do, with some freedom what many have suppressed for decades. This collection establishes a comparison with Kitty, speaks of my memories and worries and thanks women with courage, who have made this growth possible. I'm not capable to raise my voice like Gloria Steinem or write like Simone Beauvoir, I don't even have the strength of so many other anonymous women, who represented us in the feminist movements of the 60's and 70's, but I can pay tribute and honors to them. They have done so much, yet I know that there is still much to be done, so I would like to invite several women from different areas and generations to leave a testimony. It could be an old story and a look towards the future. Talk about what's different and what might be different. Sharing experiences, small things, even if they may seem obvious, because in the eyes of a new generation, they may seem often incredible. I have a 15-year-old daughter who was born and raised in a completely different reality and yet feels a feminist appeal for a very strong general equality. This intrigues me, it is said that fights cannot be forgotten, there must be a recycling, at some point it becomes necessary to remember to re-educate, in order to not let the goal fade.
KATTY XIOMARA Born in Venezuela, within a Portuguese family, Katty Xiomara moved to Portugal at age 18, settling in Porto. In 1997 ends the Fashion Design course at Citex (now Modatex), where she currently lectures. She fills the fashion week calendar in Portugal Fashion since 1998. Earlier in her career reconciles the evolution of the brand with other projects in such diverse areas as children's clothing, uniforms, theater, TV, music, dance and graphic arts. In 2000 designs the costumes for the adaptation of the play La Divine Comedy of Dante Alighieri with Jean Paul Bucchieri choreography at Centro Cultural de Belém in Lisbon. A year later registers the trade mark, but only ventures in Internationally in 2005. Katty Xiomara's name treading the catwalks of Paris on several occasions and participates regularly in International trade shows. In 2007 opens her shop atelier in an old townhouse located in the emblematic Rua da Boavista in Porto. In 2012 she receives the official visit of His Excellency the President - professor Anibal Cavaco Silva, in the framework of the visit to the creative industries of excellence. In 2014, the designer received the Silver Winner award by the IDA "International Design Awards", and in 2015 repeated this feat to bend, as well as a new Silver Winner was awarded an Honorable Mention. Since September 2013 presents its collections at New York Fashion Week, where she returned in September 2016 and in Februa 2017 with Portugal Fashion’s support. The corporate image was recognized and awarded by the American magazine HOW and her work has been published in several international editions. CONTACTS Atelier Rua da Boavista 795 4050-110 Porto, Portugal t. 220 133 784 e. info@kattyxiomara.com w. kattyxiomara@kattyxiomara.com f. https://www.facebook.com/kattyxiomara.atelier i. @kattyxiomara_official t. https://twitter.com/KattyInfo/
PÉ DE CHUMBO
The suggestion the winter 19|20 collection
is fringes and lozenges
Red, black, beige, grey and camel are the
colours.
Dresses in velvet or satin thread, blouses
with ruffles and balloon sleeves,
voluminous skirts and high-waisted
trousers set the tone for pé de chumbo.
And, showing moral concern in everyday
wear, coats with recycled threads or in
polyester fibre recycled from the plastic in
the oceans, and wool outlining colourful lozenges with long fringes, worn with light, voluminous chiffon coordinates, giving
a relaxed look that is at the same time elegant and different, like pé de chumbo women want to be.
Shoes. Shoes stand out this season.
Designed for coordination, pé de chumbo is focusing on a new aspect, shoes developed using the same construction
process as the clothes in the collection. They can be worn with identical coats or dresses for a total look vision.
PÉ DE CHUMBO
The Pé de Chumbo label was created by designer Alexandra Oliveira after she had completed her training. The meaning,
“pedal to the metal”, comes from a teenage nickname. Located in Guimarães, Pé de Chumbo has been producing
women’s collections for some years now. The distinctive feature is the development of the fabrics she uses in her designs,
in a process that combines traditional concepts with the search for new application solutions. The label has been taking
part in international fashion shows since 2007, when it made its début at SIMM, Madrid. This was followed by Paris, at
WHO'S NEXT, where it continues to exhibit, as well as other shows in other markets: CPD in Düsseldorf; MIPAP in Milan;
SCOOP and PURE LONDON in London; COTERIE and EDIT in New York; TOKYO FASHION in Tokyo; TRANOI in Paris. Alongside
major labels and designers, Pé de Chumbo is now present in more than 100 shops in 25 countries on the five continents.
Italy and the USA are the countries where the label has most points of sale and Turkey is its biggest client. In July 2016
and in January 2017, Pé de Chumbo presented two fashion shows at Altaroma, supported by Portugal Fashion.
CONTACTS
Rua S. João Batista, 915 4805-676 Brito - Guimarães
t. 253 571 436
e. info@pedechumbo.pt | e. atelierpedechumbo@gmail.comTM TERESAMARTINS TM TERESAMARTINS Teresa Martins was born in Portugal. She started embracing the world of arts in her twenties, creating her first interior retail decoration shop. Her eclectic personality has led her through multiple interests, ranging from painting, to ceramics, interior decoration, stand designs and window display design. Her current passion is TMteresamartins, a new brand of Fashion and Home products, designed with a unique concept of beauty, mixing colours, textures and details under a very personal touch. Its products are marketed all over the world, in a net of more than 100 retail shops and shown twice a year during the Portuguese Fashion week. Her work has been covered in several magazines and newspapers, from Elle to Coté Sud, Maison Française, Vogue, Evasões, Blue Living, Casa e Decoração, Máxima Interiores, Vista Alegre Magazine, Casa Claudia , Xis, Cubo, Lux Woman, Visão, Chocolate, Essential Lisboa, Poggen Pohl Magasine, UP, Byzance, Relais&Châteuax Magasine, Vogue Orient, and Elle Deco. CONTACTS Rua das Padaias, 11 c 2755-062 Alcabideche, Alvide, Portugal t. 21 481 28 60 e. teresa.martins.tm@gmail.com | e. cleia.ribeiro@tmcollection.com w. www.tmcollection.com
DIOGO MIRANDA For this season, Fall Winter ´19-20, I wanted a season of classics, sophistication, and volumes. That’s why I chose the iconic actress Catherine Deneuve as inspiration in “Indochine” movie. Her elegance, natural posture and sophisticated silhouette. Nautical motifs like stripes and chains used in a feminine and classic way to give confidence and extraordinary gold-buttoned nautical jackets, paired with gorgeously easy sailor pants. Taffeta was one the fabrics used to create exaggerated and gorgeous sleeves in contrast with fluid and pleated skirts. Ivory, soft grey, beige, black, navy blue and gold were the colors chosen for this season. At the end, we find a very sexy, confident, classic and powerful Woman. DIOGO MIRANDA Diogo Miranda began his career in 2007. Since then he has presented all his collections at Portugal Fashion. In 2015 he debuted at Paris Fashion Week, where attracted the attention of international media including the New York Times and Harper's Bazaar. Diogo Miranda store and studio are located in Felgueiras, PT where can be found their current collections, personal tailoring service for men and personalized service. In 2013 Diogo Miranda deciced to launch his shop online, a unique digital platform that provides customers with a sneak peek into the world of DIOGO MIRANDA. His creations have run the world, for their outstanding campaigns, their presence in editorials and the famous who wear his clothes, such as the international model Sara Sampaio, the brazilian it-girl Helena Bordon, the indian actress Sonam Kapoor, and the french it-gil Caroline D´Maigret. He was awarded in 2015 the prize GQ Men of the year , by the prestigious publication GQ. DIOGO MIRANDA has participated in several prestigious international showrooms, particularly in Paris, London, Berlin and New York. In 2017 Diogo Miranda celebrated the 10th anniversary. Last season he returned to Paris Fashion Week to present the Spring Summer ´19 Womenswear collection at Université Paris Décortes with the support of the PortugalFashion. CONTACTS Studio Praça da República, 60, 4610-116 Felgueiras, Portugal t. 255 925 423 | 914 176 779
LUÍS BUCHINHO THE MISSING AIRPLANE This season, Buchinho researched the uniform used by female pioneers of aviation in the forties – a time when clothing should come with a lifetime guarantee of utility. A full squadron of powerful female flying aces will take off at Luis Buchinhos’s Fall Winter 2019/2020 show. It’s easy to imagine the propellers turning when we see the variations of Amy Johnson’s headgear, jumpsuits and bomber jackets. The luxurious leather marks the season mixed with fake fur, flannel, knits, wool boucles and felt. Every single one of his giant-collared shearlings, aviator-drab overcoats, jackets and every hybrid thereof have particular graphic variations of volume, shape and buckle detail. World War II nose art imagery, dominated by female pin-ups to help boost the morale of the soldiers fighting in stressful battles with high probabilities of death inspired Luis Buchinho’s prints. Geometric, stiff and composed of zones of matte and shine, with leather dimpled and fake fur, Buchinho mixes casual things with classic and manipulates materials and colors to create graphic silhouettes for women who want to break down barriers of gender bias: strong, affirmative and sexy. Sir David Adjaye’s diverse designs and innovative use of materials and light were also a strong drive to design the whole collection, mostly the modelling and the patterns . LUÍS BUCHINHO Luís Buchinho attended Citex, currently known as Modatex, where he completed a Fashion Design course in 1989. The designer is currently a teacher in this course. Having participated in the first edition of Portugal Fashion in July 1995, Luís Buchinho has been showing his collections at this event ever since. The designer has also shown his creations at fashion shows in New York, São Paulo and Paris, with the support of Portugal Fashion. A regular presence at the Paris Fashion Week since 2009. Two years before, in 2017, the designer opened his first shop in Porto (Rua José Falcão). In 2012, Luís Buchinho won the Best Designer Award at the Fashion Awards Portugal, an event organised by Fashion TV, repeating his 2010 success. Also, Luís Buchinho received the Golden Globe for Best Fashion Designer in 2011 and 2016. Throughout the years, the designer has been participating in several international fairs, including Bread and Butter, Who’s Next, Gallery 2020, and more recently White Milano, Tranöi Femme and Edit NY. CONTACTOS Rua Sá da Bandeira Nº 812 4000-432 Porto t. 222 012 776 e. geral@luisbuchinho.pt w. http://www.luisbuchinho.pt/
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