MCARTHURGLEN LA REGGIA DESIGNER OUTLET - Designer brands at 35-70% less ALL YOU CAN DO IN THE CITY
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NOVEMBER 2015
THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO GO
RECOMMENDED BY
YOUR CONCIERGE
Fashion,
art and
traditions
ALL YOU
CAN DO
IN THE CITY
MCARTHURGLEN
LA REGGIA
DESIGNER OUTLET
Designer brands at 35-70% less
SHOPPING | DINING | ENTERTAINMENT | MUSEUMS&ATTRACTIONS
FOR THE
LABEL LOVERS DESIGNER BRANDS AT 35-70% LESS.
ALL YEAR ROUND.
McArthurGlen.it/Marcianise
Daily shuttle bus service from Naples
11.15
CONTENTS
The Plan The Guide
Let's get started The best of Naples, Coast &
41 Islands
2 Editor's Note
4 Hot Dates 48 20 SHOPPING
The hottest dates in November
to make your stay in Naples an Major shopping areas and our
unforgettable experience choice of the best specialty
stores
32 DINING
The top restaurants and
pizzerias recommended by
Where
41 ENTERTAINMENT
How to enjoy your stay in
Naples and on the Coast &
Islands
64 My perfect day
Rosanna Marziale MUSEUMS &
Interview with the Chef of Le
48 ATTRACTIONS
Colonne restaurant in Caserta Main museum attractions and
must-see exhibitions in Naples
Also Inside 14 and on the Coast & Islands
46 The Phlegrean Area
by night 54 OUT OF TOWN
Unmissable night time
experience: from the thermal Unmissable out-of-town sights:
baths to nightspots right up welcome to Sannio
guided tours of Solfatara and
Rione Terra
58 ESSENTIALS
54 Out of town Tips for getting around in
In discovery of Caserta. From Naples, Pompeii, Herculaneum,
The Reggia to the Belvedere of Oplonti and on the
San Leucio passing through the Coast&Islands
streets of Casertavecchia
MAP PAGE 62
Where Now
10 THE CULT OF THE DEAD 19 COFFEE WITH
MASCHIO ANGOINO PH RITA CHILIBERTI
A meld of the sacred and the Interview with Ciro Cacciola,
profane, curiosities and Neapolitan General Manager of Mav, the
ON THE COVER
Cover image by La Reggia traditions linked to ‘All Souls’ month Virtual Archaeological Museum of
Designer Outlet Marcianise Herculaneum
14 NAPLES AND ITS CASTELS
STAY IN TOUCH A trip amist towers, ancient 38 DINING
legends, architectural treasures and A trip in discovery of the best sweet
W www.wherenaples.com breathtaking views, in discovery of wines of the region. The most
Like us on facebook.com/ the symbols of the city representative labels of Campania
wherenaples
wherenaples.com How to enjoy your stay in Naples w w w.wh e re t rave l e r. com 1
EXPO | CAMPANIA FOOD FOR THE SOUL WHERE NAPLES
WHERE | NAPLES COAST&ISLANDS
COAST&ISLANDS
PROJECT IS
ENDORSED BY
YOU’LL SEE US LIKE THIS! THE PHOTOS MOST VIEWED BY NEWSPAPERS WORLDWIDE
What does happiness
WHERE
NAPLES COAST&ISLANDS
published by:
sound like?
IES COMUNICAZIONE SRL
Via Agostino Depretis, 51
80133 Napoli
T/Fax: 081 6174239
Campania, www.wherenaples.com COMUNE DI CAPRI
German ensemble Liquid Penguin records the joyful sounds of Naples with ‘FeliCittà’
the culinary cradle PUBLISHER AND EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Serena Altieri
of Italy (serena.altieri@wherenaples.com)
EDITORIAL
(IES COMUNICAZIONE SRL)
EDITORIAL COORDINATION COMUNE DI ERCOLANO
Ilaria Puglia
(ilaria.puglia@wherenaples.com)
EDITORIAL DEPARTMENT
Carey Bernitz
DESIGNER
Elizabeth Jeanette Deleacaes
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS/EDITORS
Monica Piscitelli, Ilaria Puglia.
At Expo Milano, this region, symbolically associated with the Mediterranean
Diet, the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity, presented its best HOTEL PR SERVICES
Valeria Fusco
gastronomic offerings, demonstrating a renewed interest for environmental (info@wherenaples.com)
control and monitoring. A region that offers a variety of high-quality PRINTED BY A.TETI S.R.L.
organic agricultural products unequalled in Italy, boasting tracts of land, Via E. Gianturco, 31/C - 80146 Napoli
www.tipteti.com Visit www.wherenaples.com
97% of which are clean, untainted and environmentally protected. It was, to listen to a preview of the
REG.TRIB. NAPOLI No. 7, 7 FEBRUARY 2014 joyful sounds of Naples.
in fact, at Expo that the President of the Regione Campania, Vincenzo De
WHERE NAPLES IS DISTRIBUTED FREE AT TOP
Luca, reminded us that Campania ranks number one in Italy in terms of HOTELS AND AT SEVERAL SELECT LOCATIONS.
environmental control and monitoring systems.
Where® is also published in Milan by Where Italia
“We felt the need to re-launch the products of Campania on a large scale by srl and in Rome by Tourist Media srl
raising awareness about their sustainability and artisanal excellence which MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS
deserves to be promoted. A perfect MVP EXECUTIVE
CHAIRMAN
example is Gragnano pasta which is William S. Morris III
not only the best in the world but PRESIDENT AND CEO
An acoustic documentary to immortalize the words and associate with happiness. The interviewers then recorded
also a true work of art, like the silk
William S. Morris IV sounds that the Neapolitan people associate with the idea the respondents’ answers .
produced in San Leucio”. This explains
MANAGING DIRECTOR EUROPE
of joy, wellbeing and peace. Director Katharina Bihler The German duo not only interviewed both citizens
Chris Manning
and composer Stefan Scheib, of German ensemble and institutions but also travelled around the outskirts
why at Expo Campania’s claim was
Where® Magazine makes every effort to ensure the Liquid Penquin, achieved this feat with ‘FeliCittà’ an of the centre recording the most disparate and typical
“Food for the soul”.
initiative promoted by the Goethe Institut as part of the sounds: from the sound of the waves on the Lungomare
accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held
responsible for any consequences arising from errors or
‘Cantiere Felicità’ project. to the silence of the Certosa, from the music played at
omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in
In Campania you can savour authentic, part is strictly prohibited.
controlled products in a context that On account of not being able to source the authors of the photos published, our
publishing company is at the disposition of anyone wishing to contact it. For roughly two weeks, in September the Liquid the Conservatory of San Pietro a Majella to the sound
aims to promote a philosophy of life Penguin travelled around Naples with their of Caserta Vecchia right up to that of Solfatara. In short,
designed not only to foster a healthy Glückscontainer, a ‘happiness confessional’, resembling they recorded the joyful voice of Naples.
personal lifestyle but also improve a photo booth. Random citizens were stopped and asked The Liquid Penguin have worked since 1996 in the field
to step inside to tell the pair about the sounds that they of contemporary music and sound art.
collective wellbeing.
Those of you wishing to publish your favourite photo of Naples should write to us either at info@wherenaples.com
wherenaples.com How to enjoy your stay in Naples or on facebook.com/wherenaples and we’ll publish it.
2 W H E R E N A P L E S I C O A S T & I S L A N D S I N O V E M B E R 2015 w w w. w heretravel er. com 3
WHERE NOW | CALENDAR
NOVEMBER
HOT DATES The hottest dates in
November chosen by
Where to make your
stay in Naples and on
the Coast and Islands
a truly unforgettable
experience!
FROM NOVEMBER
UNTIL FEBRUARY
13-1
I AM NOT I
▲Personal
exhibition by Boris
PAINTING ACTIONISM, EXCESS AND SENSUALITY, MUSEO NITSCH
SATURDAY AND SUNDAY Mikhailov, one of UNTIL FEBRUARY
BORIS MIKHAILOV, BY THE GROUND. COURTESY THE ARTIST
21-22 28
the leading and
most celebrated artists to have emerged from PAINTING ACTIONISM,
the former Soviet Union. In his photography EXCESS AND
Mikhailov deals with social issues, analysing SENSUALITY
FABIO LUISI the profound and traumatic changes that ◄ The exhibition shows the genesis,
► Will conduct soprano Julia Kelter and have invested, and continue to invest his development and meaning of action painting in
NAPOLI 2014 - 2016©A. BENESTANTE
contralto Patricia Bardon accompanied country, the Ukraine and, by transposition, relation to the Orgien Mysterien Theatre. It takes
by the Orchestra and Chorus of the San contemporary identity itself. In particular, its inspiration from a pivotal statement made by
Carlo Opera House. Maestro Luisi will the exhibition explores the themes of social the artist in 1964: “My action painting is the visible
lead the orchestra and singers in Mahler’s oppression, poverty, abandonment and grammar of my theatre of action on the surface of a
Symphony No. 2 in C minor ‘Resurrection’. solitude. canvas”. On display eighty-eight Schuttbilder taken
Teatro San Carlo. Via San Carlo, 98, Naples. Museo Madre. Via Settembrini, 79, Naples. from ten different painting actions.
T: 0817972331 T: 08119313016 Museo Hermann Nitsch. Vico Lungo Pontecorvo, 29/d,
www.teatrosancarlo.it www.madrenapoli.it Naples. T: 0815641655
www.museonitsch.org
4 W H E R E N A P L E S I C O A S T & I S L A N D S I N O V E M B E R 2015 w w w. w heretravel er. com 5
Search the full Calendar at wherenaples.com
WHERE NOW | CALENDAR
NOVEMBER
UNTIL DECEMBER THEATRE: “One flew over the cuckoo’s nest”,
WHAT'S ON 1
19
by Dale Wasserman. Teatro Bellini, Naples
FROM FRIDAY
TO SUNDAY ART: “Pompeii and Europe”. Museo
SPORT 2
6-8
Archeologico di Napoli e Scavi di Pompei
FOOTBALL OPERA: “La Traviata”, by Giuseppe Verdi.
Italian Championship A Series 3 Directed by Ferzan Ozpetek. Teatro San Carlo,
Naples
Napoli vs Udinese > 7 November
ART: “Capri The Island of Art”, a project in
Napoli vs Inter > 21 November
Stadio San Paolo. Piazzale Tecchio, Napoli. T: 0812395623
GILBERTO ZORIO 4 discovery of the Island through art. Capri
► Personal exhibition by Biella-
THEATRE: “La musica provata”, by Erri De Luca.
5
www.sscnapoli.it
BASKETBALL
born artist Gilberto Zorio, a Music by S. Di Battista. Teatro Bellini, Naples
National Basketball League A2 Gold Series protagonist of the so-called ‘Poor
FAIRS: “Creattiva”, the Italian exhibition of
Givova Napoli vs Il Globo Isernia > 1 November Art’ movement, established in 6 manual art. Mostra d’Oltremare, Naples
Givova Napoli vs S. Michele Maddaloni > 15 November Italy in the mid-sixties.
MUSIC: “Se amore è”. Sal da Vinci in concert.
Givova Napoli vs Planet Basket Catanzaro > 29 November Galleria Lia Rumma. 7 Teatro Cilea, Naples
PalaBarbuto. Viale Giochi del Mediterraneo, Napoli. T: 0817622198 Via Vannella Gaetani, 12, Naples.
PERFORMANCE: “Tableaux Vivants from
www.azzurronapolibasket.com
WATER POLO CREATTIVA
T: 08119812354 8 Caravaggio”. Museo Diocesano, Naples
www.liarumma.it
▲ The Italian exhibition of manual arts. Creattiva is not a simple showcase of products, but it is ART: “Last relic”. Exhibition by Laura Cristinzio.
A1 Series
Acquachiara vs C.C. Ortigia > 4 November a true meeting point for thousands of visitors who want to discover new trends in the world of
9 Museo Archeologico, Naples
SATURDAY ART: “Pompeo Carafa, a refined designer for
10
C.C. Napoli vs Rari Nantes Sori > 7 November creativity and get in touch with exhibitors, operators, manufactures and distributors of several
Acquachiara vs Carisa R.N. Savoia > 13 November royal tables”. Museo di San Martino, Naples
21
different materials. Aditionally, visitors can take part at courses and demonstrations proposed
C.C. Napoli vs Rari Nantes Bogliasco > 20 November CONCERTO ANNI ART: “The Vertebra Oracle”. Exhibition by
Acquachiara vs Pallanuoto Trieste > 28 November
during the weekend by exhibitors at their stands.
6-8 November. From 10am to 8pm. Ticket € 7,00 80 E NON SOLO - A 11 Rebecca Horn. Studio Trisorio, Naples
Piscina Scandone. Viale Giochi del Mediterraneo, Napoli.
T: 0815702636
Mostra d’Oltremare. Viale Kennedy, 54, Naples www.fieracreattiva.it TRIBUTE TO THE 12
PHOTOGRAPHY: “20 Years with Pino”.
Exhibition for Pino Daniele. Pan, Naples
www.federnuoto.it EIGHTIES… BUT NOT ART: “Desiderata (in media res)”. Solo
UNTIL JANUARY ONLY 13 exhibition by Marc Leckey. Museo Madre,
18
Naples
◄ Neapolitan singer Nino D’Angelo takes
DESIDERATA THEATRE: “Henry IV”, by Luigi Pirandello.
(IN MEDIA RES)
audiences on a trip down memory lane with 14 Teatro Bellini, Naples
his first hits which saw his meteoric rise to
► The first retrospective ART: “The Voice”. Installation by Marco
and the first personal
fame during the Eighties both in Italy and
abroad. On stage, D’Angelo is accompanied by
15 Bagnoli. Museo Madre, Naples
exhibition dedicated to
British artist Mark Leckey, 2008 winner of
a talented group of musicians including Massimo
Gargiulo (piano and keyboard), Guido Russo (bass),
16 ART: “Italy at war”. Archivio di Stato, Salerno
the prestigious ‘Turner Prize’ and ‘Central ART: “Axer/Désaxer”. Site-specific work by
Art Award’. The exhibition ‘Desiderata
Agostino Mennella (drums), Franco Ponzo (guitar),
Mimmo Langella (electric guitar) and vocalist Milly
17 Daniel Buren. Museo Madre, Naples
(in media res)’ presents an excursus of THEATRE: “Il fu Mattia Pascal” by L. Pirandello,
Leckey’s work, amidst new and older
Alcolese.
Palapartenope. Via Barbagallo, 115, Naples. T: 0815700008
18 starring Tato Russo. Teatro Augusteo, Naples
pieces: sculptural works, installations, ART: “La ville morte”. Exhibition by Victor
performance and videos. Leckey’s artistic
www.palapartenope.it
19 Blanc. Fondazione Foucault, Naples
research falls outside the specific field PERFORMANCE: Scenes from an archive.
of art, constantly moving towards the 20 Archivio Storico Banco di Napoli, Naples
boundary between art and everyday life. MUSIC: Nino D’Angelo in concert. A tribute
Museo Madre. Via Settembrini, 79, Naples. 21 to the Eighties but not only. Palapartenope,
Naples
UNTIL T: 08119313016 MUSIC: Fabio Luisi conducts the San Carlo
JULY www.madrenapoli.it 22 Orchestra. Teatro San Carlo, Naples
4
ART: “The Uffizi at Casal di Principe”. Casal di
LUDOVICO EINAUDI 23 Principe, Caserta
UNTIL FRIDAY
13
Two and a half years after the success of his internationally ART: “I am not I”. personal exhibition by Boris
acclaimed ‘In a Time Lapse’, Ludovico Einaudi has 24 Mikhailov. Museo Madre, Naples
released his new album, “Elements”. Featuring 12 tracks, ART: Personal exhibition by Gilberto Zorio.
AXER/DÉSAXER the album sees the interweaving of piano, strings, 25 Galleria Lia Rumma, Naples
▲ Site-specific work by French artist Daniel percussion and electronics. Simultaneously exhilarating MUSICAL: “The Betrothed”. Palapartenope,
Buren. A large-scale commission conceived and transcendent, Einaudi’s album boasts important 26 Naples
especially for the spaces of a museum: collaborations including that of Dutch String Ensemble MUSIC: Pinchas Zukerman conducts Amanda
using brightly surfaces, mirrors and stripes, THE LAST RELIC 27 Forsyth on the cello. Teatro San Carlo, Naples
Amsterdam Sinfonietta, Berlin-born
the hallmark feature of his work, the artist ▲ The exhibition by Laura Cristinzio offers a reimaging of the “Villa di Poppea” in Oplontis,
electronic musician Robert Lippok and FAIRS: “Barter and Second-hand Goods Fair”.
manages to blur the lines between the Brazilian percussionist Mauro Refosco.
MONDAY evocatively recreating its spaces and illusionary perspectives, frescoes and mosaics. 28 Mostra d’Oltremare, Naples
30
interior and exterior spaces of the museum. The exhibition enjoys the patronage of the Regional Council of Campania, the City of Naples
Teatro Augusteo. Piazzetta Duca ART: “Painting actionism, excess and
Museo Madre. Via Settembrini, 79, Naples. d’Aosta, 263, Naples. T: 081414243
and the University of Naples Federico II and involving the Department of Culture and Tourism 29 sensualità”. Museo Hermann Nitsch, Naples
T: 08119313016 of the City of Naples.
www.teatroaugusteo.it MUSIC: Ludovico Einaudi in concert. Teatro
www.madrenapoli.it Museo Archeologico Nazionale, Naples www.ultimoreperto.it 30 Augusteo, Naples
6 W H E R E N A P L E S I C O A S T & I S L A N D S I N O V E M B E R 2015 w w w. w heretravel er. com 7
WHERE NOW | CALENDAR WHERE NOW | PERFORMANCE UNMISSABLE EXHIBITION
UNTIL MAY
ITALY AT WAR
► An exhibition featuring historical documents and private papers explores
Italy’s entry into the war, seen from the perspective of the people of Salerno:
general mobilization, the requisition of schools, the collection of clothes and
basic supplies for the first recruits as well as a collection of letters written
by soldiers stationed at the front and by prisoners of war captured in the
province.
From 8am to 6.30pm; Saturdays from 8am to 1pm
Archivio di Stato di Salerno. Piazza Abate Conforti, 7, Salerno.
T: 089225044
UNTIL
JANUARY
17
20 YEARS WITH PINO (ADDOVE)
▲ An exhibition that traces the private and artistic life
of Neapolitan singer/songwriter Pino Daniele from 1990
to 2009, the most proliferous period in the career of the
musician who died in January 2015. On display, never-
seen-before material including 180 photographs and a
4-hour video shot by Alessandro d’Urso.
Pan, Palazzo delle Arti Napoli. via dei Mille, 60, Naples.
T: 0817958605
Caravaggio
www.palazzoartinapoli.net
Tableaux Vivants
A
live stage show of enormous visual impact. Twenty three canvases inspired by
the work of Caravaggio come to life on stage, right before your eyes, using the
from Caravaggio
"tableaux vivants" technique. Using the most basic elements (fabrics of various
colours and textures and everyday objects), the actors ‘compose’ the 23 canvases
THURSDAY
AND FRIDAY in front of the audience. Once constructed, the painting creates the scene as it would have
26-27
Eight actors bring Caravaggio’s appeared in the artist’s studio. Within a matter of seconds, costumes and drapery are expertly
UNTIL FEBRUARY masterpieces to life transformed by the actors who each take on the role of model, set designer, costume designer
29
and props manager. The action is immobilized as if illuminated by one lone flash of light, one
THE VOICE ‘perfect’ gesture brings to life the heart of the painting. Impeccable iconographic precision, the
▲ Installation by Marco Bagnoli. ‘La Voce. Nel giallo faremo PINCHAS ZUKERMAN expressive force of bodies and faces illuminated by a lateral beam of light, fully bring out the
una scala o due al bianco invisibile” is an ouevre that ▲ Violinist and conductor Pinchas Zukerman conducts his
‘poetry of reality’, the element that distinguishes the works of Michelangelo da Caravaggio.
represents a stairway that leads from the courtyard of the wife, Amanda Forsyth, on the cello. The renowned couple
museum, crossing over its roof and reaching all the way up will perform music by Tchaikovsky and Herbert. Chorus 8 and 22 November; 13 and 17 December. At 10.30am, 11.30am, 12.30am.
into the sky. The sound of a ‘voice’, describing the menu of a typical Neapolitan and Orchestra of the San Carlo Opera House. Choir master: >> www.museodiocesanonapoli.com
meal, emanates from an ampoule on its top. Marco Faelli.
>> Museo Diocesano, Largo Donnaregina, Naples. T: 0815571365
Museo Madre. Via Settembrini, 79. T: 08119313016 Teatro San Carlo. Via San Carlo, 98, Naples. T: 7972331
www.madrenapoli.it www.teatrosancarlo.it
8 W H E R E N A P L E S I C O A S T & I S L A N D S I N O V E M B E R 2015 w w w. w heretravel er. com 9
WHERE NOW | NEAPOLITAN TRADITIONS
Installation by Rebecca
Horn, piazza Plebiscito,
Naples
Church of Santa Maria del
Purgatorio, Naples San Pietro ad Aram, Naples
The cult of the
I
n Naples, where myth, legend and mystery blend together, the them. This generally happens during a dream as a go-between between the living and the between via Foria and the heart of Capodimonte;
cult of the dead has assumed a picturesque, fairytale-like aura. A when the deceased appears in person and gives dead. In fact, the lost soul appears in a dream the Church of Santa Maria del Purgatorio, on the
walk down the busiest, narrowest streets in the heart of the city precise indications which are then interpreted and shows where, amidst piles of bones, his/ Upper Decumanus, in today’s via dei Tribunali and
dead
is enough to understand the depth of people’s commitment and using the so-called “Smorfia”, a typical Neapolitan her bodily remains lie. The faithful then goes to the Basilica of San Pietro ad Aram, in a side-street
devotion. There are tabernacles and shrines protected by glass book which associates words with numbers, the designated cemetery, adopts the skull of the of corso Umberto, just behind piazza Garibaldi. In
cases and adorned with fresh flowers and eternal lights. They are enabling dreams to be transformed into dead person (known as the “capuzzella”) and all three places you can find dozens and dozens
embellished by rosaries, images of the Virgin, statues with agonized numbers so that people can play the lottery. builds a so-called “scarabattolo”, a sort of display of skulls of the late lamented to “adopt”.
SIGHTSEEING A meld of the sacred expressions surrounded by flames – the so-called “souls of Purgatory” – The case of the cult of the “souls of Purgatory” cabinet, like a rudimentary altar, that will act as a Rebecca Horn drew inspiration from the
photos of the deceased, votive candles and flowers. is different: this time, it is not the deceased who home for the skull. He/she then polishes the skull Fontanelle Cemetery to make the installation
and the profane, curiosities and Neapolitan
In Naples, the faithful attribute the Dead and “souls of Purgatory ” with appear to their loved ones in dreams but the and displays it for everyone to see. The devotee commissioned in 2002.
traditions linked to ‘All Souls’ month. From the
functions that the Catholic religion only ascribes to saints, namely the “souls of Purgatory”, i.e. the deceased devoid of then returns periodically to visit the lost soul who, The work, entitled “Spiriti di Madreperla”, was
souls in Purgatory to culinary customs power of answering prayers and visiting the world of the living when family, abandoned souls who have never had a thanks to his/her devotion, will finally be able exhibited in Piazza del Plebiscito in Naples: it
the mood so moves them. dignified burial and are, therefore, amassed in to “cross over”. The day chosen for visits to dead consisted of 333 bronze skulls sunk into the
However, praying for the souls of the dead is not a one-sided affair. common ossuaries. souls is Monday and the month dedicated to cobblestones and 77 neon angels’ halos hanging
Though prayers are said for their souls, benefits of a practical nature are They ask people to pray for them and look after them is November. above the heads of passersby, thus serving as a
asked for in return: e.g. finding a husband, a job, or help with winning them so that they can leave Purgatory (the world The Neapolitan cult of the “capuzzelle” is stark contrast to the ghostly skulls. According to
the lottery. Obviously, the recently departed cannot talk but will, of the living) to reach their final destination concentrated in three places: the Fontanelle Horn, it was this contrast that embodied the real
nonetheless, find a way of getting in touch with the person calling upon (hell or heaven). In this case too, dreams act Cemetery, in the heart of the Rione Sanità district, meaning of her work.
10 W H E R E N A P L E S I C O A S T & I S L A N D S I N O V E M B E R 2015 w w w. w heretravel er. com 11
WHERE NOW | NEAPOLITAN TRADITIONS
Today, several of those skulls are a part of another during a visit to Naples, the German artist visited
installation, “Spirits”, on permanent display at the a couple of octagenarians at their home in vico
Museo Madre in Naples. Lammatari, in the Sanità district.
Here, the individually lit “capuzzelle” are hung It was here that she learnt about the cult of the
on the walls, each with its own mobile mirror souls of Purgatory, nameless, abandoned souls
in which visitors can see their reflections. The whose skulls are amassed at the Fontanelle
whole is further enhanced by the solemn voice Cemetery where the devout go to adopt a skull
of musician Hayden Danyl Chisholm. Horn’s (capuzzella), looking after it, polishing it and
intention is to give visitors the idea of a life that praying for its soul. She was so awed by this
even death cannot end, because it becomes a unique Neapolitan tradition that she decided
part of eternity. to create her “Spiriti di madreperla” masterpiece
The story of how the “capuzzelle” installation (Museo Madre. Via Settembrini, 79, Naples www.
came about is extremely intriguing. In 2002, madrenapoli.it).
Culinary traditions of the Day of the Dead
‘All Souls’ day amidst tantalizing specialities and old beliefs: the
most popular foods and their ritualistic meanings. A meld of
tradition and good food
CHICKPEAS
In olden days, on 2 November,
chickpeas were offered to the souls of
the dead so that they could satiate their
hunger before returning to the other
world. Chickpea soup is a typical dish
NOUGAT OF THE DEAD of Neapolitan tradition associated with
In keeping with Neapolitan tradition, on 2 November, ‘All Souls day, the locals prepare a the dead.
special sweet treat known at the nougat of the dead. It is softer than most and, under a
layer of dark chocolate, it hides a heart of chocolate and hazelnuts.
BROAD BEANS
WHEAT PUMPKIN Since time immemorial, broad beans
A symbol of life and fertility, when A symbol of fertility dating as far back were the food dedicated to the dead
combined with mulled wine, as Greek and Latin times, pumpkin is and were served as the main course
pomegranate seeds, cinnamon, walnuts used to ward off evil spirits. A popular at funeral banquets. Their long stalks,
and sugar, this delicacy is part of the dish, especially in November, it pairs which penetrate the soil deep down,
ritual celebrations in Campania and, in beautifully with pasta but can also be were believed to be able to put the
general, in Southern Italy associated grilled and dressed with vinegar and living in touch with the dead.
with the Day of the Dead. parsley.
12 W H E R E N A P L E S I C O A S T & I S L A N D S I N O V E M B E R 2015
WHERE NOW | NAPLES EXPERIENCE
Castel Nuovo, Maschio Angioino
Naples and its
castles The richest and best-preserved castles in Naples.
A trip amidst towers, ancient legends, architectural treasures
and breathtaking views, in discovery of the symbols of the city
Castel dell'Ovo
T
here are seven castles in the CASTEL DELL’OVO Vesuvius silhouetted in the background. The little CASTEL NUOVO, MASCHIO ANGIOINO CASTEL SANT’ELMO CASTELLO DEL CARMINE
city: Castel Nuovo, also known The oldest in the city, Castel dell’Ovo is a landmark lanes beneath the thick walls are lined with the Another symbol of Naples, Castel Nuovo looms The highest fortress in the city, it stands on the Standing in piazza Mercato, all that remains of the
as Maschio Angioino, Castel attraction due to its position and architecture. The houses of Borgo Marinaro, a former fisherman’s majestically in piazza Municipio. Commissioned hill of Vomero, in a strategic position. Of Norman Castello del Carmine, built in 1382 by Charles III of
Sant’Elmo, Castel Capuano, castle stands on the tiny isle of Megaride where, haunt where quaint lanes are now lined with by Charles I of Anjou in 1266 when he moved the origin, it boasts several magnificent panoramic Durazzo, is the Spinella Tower and a stretch of the
Castel dell’Ovo, Castello del according to legend, the siren Pantenope washed pleasant bars and pizzerias. capital of the Kingdom from Palermo to Naples, terraces: the city lies at its foot showing itself in Aragonese wall flanking it.
Carmine, the one in Nisida ashore. Its name, the Egg Castle, derives from an the castle owes its current architecture to the all of its splendour, with the profile of Vesuvius
and the fortress of Vigliena. The first four are the ancient legend according to which the poet Virgil CASTEL CAPUANO Aragonese sovereigns. The majestic marble portal acting as a backdrop to the thick maze of the CASTELLO DI NISIDA
most representative not only on account of their placed an egg under its foundations, a magical Built in the 12th century by the Normans, it takes at its entrance was commissioned by Alfonso of city’s narrow streets. It is only after admiring Dating back to the 16th century, the Castello
historical backgrounds but also because they are egg on which the destiny of the city is thought its name from the nearby gate Porta Capuano, Aragon to celebrate the victories of his dynasty. Naples like this, from above, that you can say that di Nisida was first a hospice for those suffering
better preserved. to hang. On passing through its entrance, visitors one of the many gates in the city, leading to Inside, the stark stone Hall of the Barons is named you have truly seen it. Following the Neapolitan from the plague during the terrible epidemic
will have the feeling of having entered another Capua. It is the second oldest castle in Naples after the barons arrested and slaughtered here Revolution of 1799, it became the prison of the of 1626 and subsequently a prison for political
dimension, due to the light the filters through the and also one of the most significant examples for having plotted against him. Legend has it most important protagonists of the Revolution, prisoners. Today, it houses the city’s juvenile
Those of you wishing to publish your apertures overlooking the sea. of Norman architecture. Over the years, it has that the prisoners of Castel Nuovo disappeared including Giustino Fortunato and Luisa Sanfelice: prison. Little remains of the Fortezza di Vigliena in
PH. SERENA ALTIERI
PH. RITA CHILIBERTI
favourite photo of Naples should write
Breathtaking views can be enjoyed from its housed all the city’s courts of justice: the ‘Salone mysteriously because they were thrown into the according to legend, terrifying screams could be the neighbourhood of San Giovanni a Teduccio,
to us either at
info@wherenaples.com panoramic terrace: on the one side the sea and, dei Busti’ hosts all the busts of the princes of the ditch surrounding the castle where they were fed heard emanating from its underground passages. partially destroyed during the revolution of 1799.
or on facebook.com/wherenaples on the other, the city with the Bay of Naples and Forum of Naples. to an enormous African crocodile. Today it is a museum that is well worth a visit.
and we’ll publish it.
14 W H E R E N A P L E S I C O A S T & I S L A N D S I N O V E M B E R 2015 w w w. w heretravel er. com 15WHERE NOW | IN DISCOVERY OF CAMPANIA
Piazza G.B. Manni
Welcome to
T
he province of Benevento, bordering to the South Piovene described it as follows : "...a complete the art of ceramic-making with the nearby picturesque area whose distinguishing features
with Irpinia, to the West with Casertano, to the North reconstruction, in true Baroque style, capable of commune of San Lorenzello. Its historic centre include its lovely medieval town, rolling hills
with Molise and to the East with Puglia, has such surprising even the most discerning visitors”. The boasts two churches, the Church of San Lorenzo, dotted with pine and oak woods but, above all,
Sannio
unique morphological, historical and anthropological archaeological recovery of its medieval centre, which houses the wooden sculpture of the town’s vast stretches of vineyards and olive groves.
characteristics that for a moment, following the Unification known as the ‘Medieval Pompeii’, is currently in patron saint, and the Church of the Congregazione The historical centre, built up around the
of Italy, there was talk of actually creating a separate progress. Awarded Orange Flag certification by della Sanità, rich in exquisite ceramic works of castle, though partly abandoned following the
region: the Sannio. Where has chosen five communes to accompany you in Touring Club Italiano and boasting ‘Città dell’olio’ art including a majolica tympanum by Antonio earthquake of 1980, still retains several medieval
In discovery of the province of Benevento, discovery of a truly fascinating area. (‘City of Oil’) designation, Cerreto is renowned Giustinianei. Along the via Regia, on the banks attractions of note. The area is home to a number
amidst local curiosities, medieval history, Pietraroja, whose name derives from the French ‘pierre rouge’ (red stone) for its age-old ceramic-making tradition which of the river Titerno, we find the Park of San of lovely small Baroque churches.
monuments and tourist attractions. Five present in the area, is a mountain commune surrounded by woods flourished following the earthquake of 1688 when Sebastiano, home to the City of Dinosaurs, Lastly, we recommend pushing farther north to
abounding in natural springs. Although its most important monument is the reconstruction of the town attracted scores an educational park stretching over roughly the picturesque village of Cusano Mutri, whose
communes chosen by Where to make your trip
the Romanesque Parish Church of Santa Maria Assunta, another unmissable of Neapolitan potters who, absolved from paying one hectare where visitors can admire fifteen typically medieval historical centre retains all of
memorable attraction is its Geo-Paleontological Park, with its museum, the Paleolabo, taxes, combined their experience with that of reproductions of fiberglass dinosaurs located in its original old-world charm intact with its narrow
housing fossil finds of considerable note, including Ciro, the first baby local potters to give life to a new, more opulent, evocative natural surroundings. streets, porticoes and houses boasting elaborately
dinosaur in Italy, several of whose internal organs are still intact. Baroque-style porcelain. Guardia Sanframondi owes its name to the stone-worked portals and windows.
For more info Cerreto Sannita, an outpost of Sannio Pentro (a Roman bridge known to Since that time, the ceramics of Cerreto have Sanframondo family who built an imposing The largest church in the commune is the Church
www.comune.cerretosannita.bn.it
www.comune.cusanomutri.bn.it the locals as ‘Annibale’ can still be seen here today together with a podium of become highly sought-after objects. In fact, medieval castle here. Today, the castle serves as the of San Giovanni Battista whose precious shrine
www.comunesanlorenzello.it the only Sannite Temple in Campania), is identified as a ‘planned community’ several of the figurines displayed in the manger town’s cultural hub and is used for performances, contains a thorn from the woven crown of thorns
www.comuneguardiasanframondi.gov.it
www.comune.pietraroja.bn.it on account of its regular urban structure. Its reconstruction was, in fact, of the Reggia di Caserta, were actually crafted by film screenings, art and photographic exhibitions. placed on the head of Jesus during the events
based on a project by the Carafa Counts following the earthquake of 1688 master potters from Cerreto. The commune, renowned, above all, for its noble leading up to his Crucifixion.
which razed the town to the ground. Italian writer and journalist Guido For more than three centuries, Cerreto has shared wines produced by the Guardiense winery, is a
16 W H E R E N A P L E S I C O A S T & I S L A N D S I N O V E M B E R 2015 w w w. w heretravel er. com 17[ MADE IN NAPLES]
Coffee with
Special thanks
to GUGLIELMO
CAMPAJOLA
owner of
La Caffettiera
What is the annual influx of visitors to What are the latest attractions at Mav?
Mav?
In 2015, we introduced 7 new installations
In 2014, we registered more than 70,000 regarding the Villa of the Papyri, an
visits to the site of Herculaneum, plus interactive map of Herculaneum and a
another 120,000 visitors to exhibitions machine that delivers fragrances.
organized abroad. 2015 has seen an increase
Future projects?
in this trend: the exhibition held in Warsaw,
Since 2010, we have been working on the
which ended last month, registered an influx
MAV ON TOUR project. An itinerant museum
of more than 100,000 visitors.
project on Pompeii and Herculaneum,
which will travel around the world. We
have staged exhibitions in Barcelona, Chile,
Madrid and Warsaw. We have participated
in various exhibitions in collaboration with
Ciro
Cacciola
The Museum’s objective is to offer visitors The General Manager of Mav,
a chance to relive the everyday lives of the the Virtual Archaeological
inhabitants of the cities destroyed by the Museum of Herculaneum,
eruption of 79 A.D. In what way? the first and only virtual
Visitors are treated to a fully immersive
museum devoted to the British Museum in London and with the
experience involving a tour, interactive maps,
archaeology and, in particular Kunst Foundation in Hamburg. We are also
sensorial effects and sounds. They can even
to the archaeological finds preparing an exhibition which is scheduled
relive the earthquake that accompanied the
of Vesuvius to travel to France in 2016.
terrible explosion of Vesuvius during the
eruption of 79 A.D.
What makes MAV’s
offer so unique?
Thanks to the use
of avant-garde reconstruction is created with
technology, MAV the help of archaeologists,
enables visitors architects, 3D designers
to learn about and historians who research
the archaeological the documents and scientific
heritage of the texts available to validate the
Vesuvian area. Each hypothesis of a reconstruction.
w w w. w heretravel er. com 19SHOPPING FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERENAPLES.COM
SHOPPING
Corso Umberto I, 234. T: 081287962 www.
NAPLES francescomartone.it
ACCESSORIES
Sizing
LA BANCARELLINA – Dresses children aged
0-6 with the latest creations by Mini Man, Le
E&G CAPPELLI – The beauty of a tie lies in Guignol and Startrite. Open Mon-Sat 10am-
superior-quality craftsmanship, especially 2pm and 4pm-8pm – via Carducci, 39/41 – T:
when the fabric used is pure silk. Open Mon- 081.401695
Sat 10am-1.30pm and Mon-Fri 4pm-8pm – via
Shoes Cavallerizza a Chiaia, 37 – T: 081.400166
OONA L’OURSE – Sartorial creations for
children aged 0-4. Over the years, the age
GEMELLI DA POLSO – Love and passion for bracket was extended to 12-year-olds. Open
EUR US UK the working of precious stones. Collections Mon-Fri 10am-1.30pm and 4.30pm-8pm; Sat
inspired by nature, including the Isle of 10am-1,30pm – www.oonalourse.it – via Carlo
WOMEN Capri. Open only by appointment - www. Poerio, 6 – T: 081.7644745
gemellidapolso.it – Piazza Amedeo, 16/I – T:
36 5 3 081.403512
SCIUSCIA’ – Leader in clothing for children and
boys aged 0–18. Open Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm
37 6 4 MARIO PORTOLANO – Leather gloves and 4.30pm-8pm - www.sciuscianapoli.it – via
handmade. Open Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm and Vittoria Colonna, 3 – T: 081.4104397
38 7 5 4.30pm-8pm - www.marioportolano.it – via
SIOLA – A wide choice of clothing and
Chiaia, 140/141 – T: 081.418354
39 8 6 accessories for infants and children up to the
PISTOLA – For more than a century, Pistola has age of 10. Its beautiful window displays, where
been manufacturing handmade gloves for no detail has been left to chance, and its
41 9 7
every occasion. Open Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm charming interior, are a joy to behold. Open
42 10 8 and 4.30pm-8pm – via S. Caterina a Chiaia, 12 Mon-Sat from 9am-8.15pm; Sun 11am-1.30pm;
SPAZIO C – An high-class boutique selling 5pm-8pm – Via Chiaia, 11 – T: 081415036 www.
MEN clothing and accessories. Open Mon-Sat siola.it
10am-1.30pm and 4.30pm-8pm - www.
41 8 7 spazioc.net - via Bisignano, 60 – T: 081.401005
42 9 8 ULTURALE CRAVATTE – A tie should be CLOTHING – MEN &
43 10 9
expressive, stylish and memorable – in short,
beautiful. Open Tue-Fri 10am-7,30pm; Sat
WOMEN
10am-1,30pm - www.ulturalecravatte.it – via ALESSIO VISONE – She creates exclusive
45 11 10 Carlo Poerio, 115 – T: 081.2481151 styles right before your eyes. Open Mon-Fri
9am-1pm and 3pm-6pm – via dei Mille, 1 – T:
46 12 11 081.421390
47 13 12 BOOKS & MAGAZINES AMINA RUBINACCI – Her oyster-style sweater
has made her famous throughout the world
ANTICA LIBRERIA REGINA – Established as an and is available in the classic colours of
antique bookseller in the 19th century, over burgundy, prune, light blue, white, grey or
the years it has updated its collection with a
Clothes number of modern works and publications.
black. Open Mon-Sat 10am-2pm and Mon-Fri
4pm-8pm – via dei Mille, 16 – T: 081413048
La Reggia Designer Outlet
Open Mon-Fri 9,30am-1,30pm and 4-8.30pm;
Sat 9,30am-1.30pm – via Vittoria Colonna, 15 ANGELO MARINO – A stylish menswear shop,
EUR US UK a/c – T: 081.407309 synonymous with Neapolitan
sartorial elegance. Open
WOMEN LA FELTRINELLI – More than 100,000 Mon-Fri 10am-1.30pm
It is the perfect place to shop for designer fashion. In this picturesque village-style outlet, you’ll find over titles including books, music and and 4.30pm-8pm; Sat
XS 34 2 6 music scores, DVDs, games, musical
200 international and Italian brands with savings of 35-70% less instruments, high-class stationery,
10am-1,30pm – via
Domenico Morelli, 14/16
36 4 8 gadgets and magazines. Open Mon-
I
S – T: 081.414225
f you love designer fashion, you can’t visit even more special, you can arrange an Piazza Minipio in the centre of Naples. You Fri 10am-9pm; Sat 10am-11pm; Sun
38 6 10 10am-2pm and 4pm-10pm - www. ASPESI – Lightness and
Naples without making time for a trip to appointment with the Personal Style can also reserve a private transfer by calling
lafeltrinelli.it – via Santa Caterina a fluidity are the key words
La Reggia Designer Outlet. Advisor. Book online before your visit to the information office or booking online. 40 8 12 Chiaia, 23 – T: 081.2405411 of this brand featuring
This stylish shopping village is one of five enjoy their expert service tailored to your Plus, non-EU citizens can enjoy a tax refund M soft, versatile clothing.
Italian centres in the McArthurGlen Group, fashion needs. on products purchased at the centre.
42 10 14 Open Mon-Sat 10am-
and is home to a wide selection of sought- As well as designer shopping, you can enjoy With over 200 brands at 35-70% less all year L 44 12 16 CHILDREN’S 1.30pm and 4.30pm-8pm
– www.aspesi.it – piazza
after brands including Blumarine, Brooks
Brothers, Hugo Boss, Roberto Cavalli, Tru
much more at La Reggia Designer Outlet.
Relax by their beautiful fountain and watch
round, as well as great places to eat and
drink, you can enjoy a fantastic day out at La MEN CLOTHING & San Pasquale, 23/24 – T:
Trussardi, Pinko, Guess, Liu jo, Patrizia Pepe the world go by, or admire your purchases Reggia Designer Outlet. 44 34 34
TOYS 081.7645399
BARBARO - Since 1970,
and many more. Even better, they’re all 35- over a leisurely lunch in one of their cafés S DU PAREIL AU MEME – A brand Barbaro has been
70% less than the RRP, all year round. and restaurants. There’s plenty of delicious >> Autostrada A1. Exit Caserta Sud, 46 36 36 specializing in clothing for children synonymous with a
aged 0 to 14. Open Mon-Sat 10am- distinct, highly
With so many brands on offer, you’ll find local cuisine on offer, including authentic Marcianise (CE) 48 38 38 1.30pm and Mon-Fri 4.30pm-8pm – recognizable
exactly what you’re looking for – from Italian coffee, traditional Naples-style pizza >> T: 0823 510244 M http://www.dpam.com/ - via Vittoria style that
designer accessories and beautiful and Italy’s world-famous ice cream. >> info.lareggia@mcarthurglen.com 50 40 40 Colonna 14/a interprets
eveningwear, to holiday essentials and The centre is open seven days a week and >> McArthurGlen.it/Marcianise FRANCESCO MARTONE – Established
52 42 42
stylish gifts for your friends and family. you can get there easily on the return L in 1889, Francesco Martone has
To make your shopping experience shuttle bus service, which runs daily from 54 44 44 developed from generation MICHAEL KORS. Crafted in vacchetta, the Bryce
to generation with its array of
Leather Boot are a part of Jet Set 6 Collection
wherenaples.com How to enjoy your stay in Naples elegant, timeless children’s fashions.
www.michaelkors.com
20 W H E R E N A P L E S I C O A S T & I S L A N D S I N O V E M B E R 2015 w w w. w heretravel er. com 21SHOPPING
Italian luxury with 8pm – www.bikkembergs.com – via Gaetano LIU JO – Established as a textiles company
the best-known Filangieri, 4/5 specializing in knitwear, it later branched out
clothing and into “ready-to-wear” fashion for women, men
EDDY MONETTI – Hats, ties, smoking jackets
accessory labels. and children. Open Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm
and a range of accessories. His motto is
Galleria Umberto and 4.30pm-8pm – www.liujo.it – via Gaetano
“men must keep abreast of the times”. Open
I, 1/7. T: 081414940 Filangieri, 6/7 – T: 081.42982
Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm and Mon-Sat 4pm-
www.barbaro.eu 8pm - www.eddymonetti.com – via dei Mille, LOTTO 0 – A chic, cult Neapolitan sportswear
BLASI – A 45 – T: 081.407064 – piazza Santa Caterina, 8 – T: destination. Open Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm and
haven for 081.403229 4.30pm-8pm – www.lottozero.it – via Gaetano
lovers of Filangieri, 60 – T: 081.2512103
FA.B.ER – Featuring sartorial items and costume
precious jewellery, this workshop is a blaze of colour and LUCIANO COPPOLA – Styles by Brando, Iceberg,
fabrics, a quirky shopping destination. Open Mon-Sat Fusco and Gigli are featured alongside a
refined 10am-1.30pm and Mon-Fri 4.30pm-8pm – via G. selection of specially treated waterproofed
cuts and Ferrigni, 4 – T: 338.4300696 garments. Open Mon-Sat 10am-8pm - via dei
Mille, 47 – T: 081.413026
FALCONERI – A brand that creates comfortable,
form-fitting garments with an impeccable cut. LUISA SPAGNOLI – A perfect balance of
Open Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm and 4.30pm- innovation and tradition, upgraded lines and
8pm - www.falconeri.it – via dei Mille, 51 – T: experimentation with styles are part of Luisa
081403471 Spagnoli’s philosophy. Open Mon-Fri 10am-
2pm and 4pm-8pm – www.luisaspagnoli.
FRANCESCA FERRANTE – Its collections,
it – via Chiaia, 200 – T: 081.410132 Via Toledo. T:
ever-attentive to new fads and the latest
081419476
HUGO BOSS. Sorrel leather ankle boots trend, are practical, young and fresh. Open
featuring a decorative clasp and metal fittings Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm and Mon-Fri 4.30pm- MARIELLA BURANI – Clothing, leather goods,
to add a versatile touch of cool to all outfits. 8pm – www.francescaferrante.com – piazza dei knitwear and footwear for discerning women.
Martiri, 52 – T: 081.2451056 Open Mon-Sat 10am-2pm and Mon-Fri 4pm-
www.hugoboss.com
8pm – www.mariellaburani.com – via Chiaia,
FRANZESE - A high-end luxury boutique
136
carrying men, women and children’s clothing
fashion-forward styles. Open Mon-Sat 10am- plus loads of stylish accessories – www. MAXI HO – A reference point for shopping in
luxuryoflove.it – via D. Morelli, 6/10b (piazza dei Naples, where the group owns a number of
1.30pm and 4.30pm-8pm – via dei Mille, 31/33
Martiri). T: 0816583168 sales points. Its via Nisco location is dedicated
– T: 081.415283
to clothing collections, footwear and
GALLERIA NAVARRA – A real oasis of shopping
BRUNELLO CUCINELLI – The king of cashmere. accessories for men. Open Mon-Fri 10am-
in a garden: iconic brands and the latest trends
Open Mon-Sat 10am-2pm and Mon-Fri 4pm- 1.30pm and 4.30pm-8pm; Sat 10am-1.30pm
in Neapolitan elegance - www.gallerianavarra.
8pm – www.brunellocucinelli.con – via dei - www.maxiho.it – via N. Nisco, 23/27 – T:
it – Piazza dei Martiri, 23 – T: 0817643595
Mille, 31/35 – T: 081.4238126 081.410231
GUTTERIDGE – Micheael Gutteridge arrived
BRUNO CARUSO PRIVEE – Caruso’s bridal MURPHY & NYE – One of the most prestigious
in Naples from Yorkshire and went on to
wear is a delightful mix of elegance and nautical brands in the world. Open Mon-Sat
create a small empire. Today the company
contemporary trends. Relief flowers, is synonymous with creative flair, skill,
Swarovski, georgette and opulent, elegant tradition and innovation. Open Mon/Sat
capes designed to discreetly cover plunging 10am/1.30pm and 4.30pm-8pm – www.
necklines during religious ceremonies but gutteridge.it – via Chiaia, 107
also soft, mermaid-style lines and semi-
transparencies epitomize the rich details of HALLOWEEN – Since 1981 it has offered a
wide choice of garments from the best
his gowns. Via Carlo Poerio, 12. T: 0817640551
Italian and European brands based on
www.brunocarusoprivee.com
attention to detail and the search for
CATAPANO - A wide range of apparel, both unusual, high-quality fabrics. Open Mon/
casual and elegant and top-level customer Sat 9,45am-1,45pm and 4,30pm-8pm - via
service make Catapano a must-visit destination. Ferrigni, 37 – T: 081403773
via Toledo. T: 081407813
HARMONT & BLAINE – Iconic dachshund
CESARE ATTOLINI – The king of tailors, or the brand Harmon & Blaine represents one
tailor of kings, Cesare Attolini actually made of the most dynamic and successful
a suit for Victor Emanuel III of Italy. Open sportswear brands in the fashion industry.
Mon-Fri 10,30am-1.30pm and 4.30pm-8pm; Sat Open Mon-Sat 10am-2pm and Mon-Fri
10am-1,30pm - www.cesareattolini.com – vico 4pm-8pm – www.harmontblaine.it –
Vetriera, 12 – T: 081.426826 piazza dei Martiri, 33 – T: 081.7642591
DE MATTEO - A rich choice of brands for men HUGO BOSS –An ever so sleek and stylish
and for women. Also stocks accessory. Open collection of high-end clothing for men
Mon-Sat 10am-8pm. Piazza Nicola Amore, and women. Open Mon-Sat 10am-2pm
14/16. T: 081260582 www.dematteogroup.it and 4pm-8pm – www.hugoboss.com – via
dei Mille, 41 – T:081.401424
DESIGUAL – Established in Barcelona in 1984,
the slogan of this fantasy-filled brand is: JOSSA – Men’s clothing, footwear and
accessories. It stocks Alberto Aspesi
“Desigual is not the same” – www.desigual.com
quilted jackets and jackets, vintage-style
– Via Toledo, 300/302 – T: 0810665132
Duvetica quilted jackets and minimalist,
DIRK BIKKEMBERGS – Belgian designer Dirk beautifully tailored Jil Sander suits.
ALBERTA FERRETTI. Severe, old-world brocade
Bikkembergs’ philosophy has always been Accessories include Pantofola D’Oro
to combine the best of fashion and sport. sneakers and coloured Car Shoe loafers. Via
cuissardes for the 2015 Fall-Winter season.
Open Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm and 4.30pm- Carlo Poerio, 43. T: 0817649835 www.albertaferretti.com
22 W H E R E N A P L E S I C O A S T & I S L A N D S I N O V E M B E R 2015SHOPPING SHOPPING
ROBERTA BACARELLI – Since 2011, a brand - www.libonatijewels.com – vico II Alabardieri, mantovano.com – piazza dei Martiri, 58 – T: TRAMONTANO – Since the very beginning,
BURBERRY. Elegant Wellington boots with
dedicated to women fashion. Her collection 27 – T: 081.19564205 081.418003 Tramontano’s leather goods collections,
stud inserts at the ankle and non-slip rubber
fluctuates between tailor-made authentic including “Made-in-Italy” totes and accessories,
APA – The time-honoured tradition of coral and MONETTI – High-class watchmaking and soles. it.burberry.com
vintage garments and more contemporary have been manufactured exclusively in its
cameo crafting from 1750 to the present-time. jewellery in Naples since 1904. Open Mon-Sat
stylish outfits, in a blend conveying an Naples-based workshops. Open Mon-Sat
Via Cavallo, 6, Torre del Greco – T: 0818810246 10am-1.30pm and Mon-Fri 4.30pm-8pm –
equilibrated image of nowadays woman 10am-1.30pm and Mon-Fri 4pm-8pm - www.
www.lpm-apa.com www.monettiorologi.com – via dei Mille, 12
which, not dropping out the cloths comfort, tramontano.it – via Chiaia, 143/144 – T:
– T: 081.411468
blinks her eyes to the past days elegance - BARAKA ELITE LUXURY – New materials skilfully 081.414837
those in search
www.robertabacarelli.it - Via C. Poerio, 48. T: combined with gold and diamonds thanks to NAPPA GIOIELLI – The first Nappa jewellery
0817641584 cutting-edge techniques. Open Mon-Sat 10am- store was founded in Naples in 1920. Unique PASSION SHOPPING of their ideal
fragrance. Open
1.30pm and 4.30pm-8pm - www.baraka.it – via jewels that combine high-end craftsmanship
RUBINACCI – Here you can sit down, have a BRUNO ACAMPORA – For the past 40 years, from Tuesday to
Calabritto, 28 – T: 081.7646951 with sophisticated design - aesthetics. Open
cup of coffee with Mariano himself, discuss the Bruno Acampora has been creating perfumed Saturday from
Mon-Sat 9.30am-1.30pm and 4.30pm-8pm
arrival or some new fabric or the manufacture BRINKMANN – Iconic watchmakers whose oils in his small atelier. His range features seven 9.30am to
- www.nappagioielli.it – via Filangieri, 65 – T:
of a new suit. Open Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm and name is imprinted on the clocks of all the natural essences of international repute. Open
081.413143 1.30pm
Mon-Fri 4.30pm-8pm – www.marianorubinacci. cableway stations in Naples - www.brinkmann. Mon-Sat 9am-1pm and 3pm-6pm – www.
net – via Chiaia, 149/E – T: 081.415793 it - Piazza Municipio, 21 – T: 0815520555 PANDORA - The wide range of Pandora brunoacampora.com – via Gaetano Filangieri,
jewellery offers a superlative mix of gift 72 – T: 081.401701
SARTORIA DALCUORE – His outerwear has a BRUNO & PISANO – All the details of this
ideas for all types of women and occasions.
unique cut that earned him the nickname of boutique’s decor are reminiscent of the ELENA COLONNA – For several generations,
With its charms, bracelets, rings, earrings,
“the tailor, non-tailor”, coined by his colleagues passing of time: from its entrance door the Haute Couture bridal wear found at Atelier
watches, necklaces and pendants, those on
to emphasize his flair and his non-conformist featuring a ticking clock, to its poufs and Elena has been a pure expression of the
the receiving end can continue to extend
attitude. Open Mon-Sat 8am-8pm; Sun 8am- armchairs. Open Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm maison’s sartorial expertise. Her passion for
their Pandora collection with timeless items, and from 4pm
2pm - www.sartoriadalcuore.com – Riviera di and 4.30pm-8pm – via Calabritto, 15 – T: bridal gowns stems fro more than fifty years
designed to cater to all tastes and, what’s in the business. Open only by appointment to 8pm. Mon. From 4.30pm to 8pm - www.
Chiaia, 281– T: 081.7645785 081.7644035
more, last for a lifetime. – www.pandora.net – – www.elenacolonna.it – via dei Mille, 40 – T: profumopoerio33.it - Via Carlo Poerio, 33. T:
SATRIANO CINQUE – An atelier, a meeting place CALABRITTO 28 – New materials skilfully Via Toledo, 322 – T: 0814976012
DIOR. High boots in blue and brown patterned 081.404590 0812405072
and a tailor’s shop, it offers high-end “made to combined with gold and diamonds thanks
patent leather add a touch of colour to cold, PRESTA – Established in Naples in 1902 thanks LIVIO DE SIMONE – A “designer cum artist”
measure” garments made from precious fabrics to cutting-edge techniques. Open Mon-Sat VOYAGE PITTORESQUE - Made-to-order
grey winter days. www.dior.com to the enterprising spirit of visionary, Cavalier whose creations have garnered international
featuring unique weaves and patterns. Open 10am-1.30pm and Mon-Fri 4.30pm-8pm - www. contemporary, graphic and photographic
Giuseppe, who used his love of jewellery to lay acclaim on runways throughout the world
Mon-Fri 10am-7pm and Sat 10am-2pm - vico baraka.it – via Calabritto, 28 – T: 081.7646951 works plus the reproduction of all types and
the foundations for future generations. Open thanks to his magnificent sartorial offerings.
Satriano, 5 – T: 081.0320021 CARAMANNA – The philosophy of Caramanna’s sizes of prints and photographs. Elite art,
Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm and Mon-Fri 4.30pm- In addition to his womenswear, De Simone’s
TAKESHY KUROSAWA – A dramatic, cutting- jewellery is encapsulated in innovative, sought- 8pm – www.prestagioielli.it – via dei Mille prints, panels, objet d’art and customized
10am-2pm and Mon-Fri 4pm-8pm – www. home fabrics are also absolutely stunning. works. Stylish, imaginative tailor-made
edge, totally unconventional brand, whose after shapes, intriguing subjects and the
store.murphynye.com – via Chiaia, 148/149 SARA LUBRANO - Sara Lubrano’s handcrafted Open Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm and 4.30pm-8pm
unusual, personality-filled name says it all. working of noble materials based on timeless creations - www.voyagepittoresque.it – Via
pieces are designed to exalt the personality of - www.liviodesimone.it – Via D. Morelli, 17 – T:
OFFICINE – Classic clothing and casual refined Open Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm and 4.30pm-8pm artisanal techniques - www.caramannagioielli. Vittoria Colonna, 15 – T: 081407309
those who enjoy wearing exclusive jewellery, 0817643827
taste. So many brands are available: Lardini, – www.takeshykurosawa.com – via dei Mille, 11 it - Via Cavallerizza a Chiaia, 2 – T: 0810608740
often tailor-made in her atelier. Vicoletto MARINELLA – The history of the Marinella
Barba Orian, Tramarossa Pants, Roy Rogers and DODO BOUTIQUE – A collection of charms
YAMAMAY – Lingerie, pyjamas and night wear, Belledonne a Chiaia, 7, Naples. T: 08119575070
Altea Heritage are just some of them. Via Carlo
swimwear and make-up, but also eyewear and created by Pomellato, recognized throughout www.saralubrano.it
family started with its founder Eugenio. It was
he who founded the “Marinella philosophy”:
SHOES
Poerio, 92/f. T: 0810324403 bags. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-8.30pm – www. the world for its jewellery, designed to
VENTRELLA – Each piece of jewellery is unique more than a sales point, a sort of men’s club ALBANO – A temple to luxury shoes: sexy
PAOLO FIORILLO – The piazza dei Martiri yamamay.com - via Chiaia, 94 – via dei Mille, 83 celebrate the small, whimsical feathered Dodo. where human relations are based on service, sandals in uber-glam nuances, embellished
in an ongoing search for perfection. Ventrella
boutique is dedicated to women’s collections A/B – T: 081.409490 Open Mon-Sat 10,30am-1.30pm and Mon-Fri courtesy and respect.
jewellery is distinguished by its original charm by precious stones, Swarowski crystals and
while the one located in via Carducci stocks 4.30pm-8pm - www.dodo.it - via Filangieri, 58 Open Mon-Sat 6,30am-8pm; Sun 9am-1pm
WEEKEND MAX MARA - An Italian fashion knows as the “labyrinth” or the “boomerang”. ultra-feminine details. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-
clothing, footwear and accessories for men house known for its ready-to-wear clothing GENTILE - High class watches and jewellery Open Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm and Mon-Fri - http://www.marinellanapoli.it - Riviera di 1.30pm and Mon-Fri 4.30pm-8pm - www.
and women. Open Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm for elegant, dynamic women. Corso Umberto since 1900. Armando Gentile Gioielleria. 4.30pm-8pm - www.ventrella.it – via Carlo Chiaia, 287 – T: 081.7644214 albano.it – via Santa Caterina a Chiaia, 12 – T:
and 4pm-8pm – www.paolofiorillo.com – via I, 108/110 Open Mon-Sat 10am-8pm. Via Toledo, 349, Poerio, 11 – T: 081.7643173 M. CILENTO E F.LLO DAL 1780 – For more than 081.19568193
Carducci, 49/51 – piazza dei Martiri, 30/32 – T: Naples. T: 081412711 info@armandogentile. 200 years, in addition to high-quality, high-end ALBERTO GUARDIANI – Superior quality
081.2400023 it; Gentile Gioielli. Open Mon-Sat 10am-8pm. accessories, Cilento has offered its clientele a footwear featuring a blend of exquisite
OLD ENGLAND – Tradition, quality and elegance CONCEPT STORES Via Nicola Nisco, 4, Naples. T: 081418360
gentilegioiellinapoli@live.it
LEATHER & LUGGAGE wide range of the best fabrics for clothing and
shirting - www.cilento1780.com - Via Medina,
craftsmanship, experimentation and
meld in a shop whose British style has made it MERCEDES-BENZ SPOT – For total look CARPISA – A small tortoise logo and more than painstaking attention to detail cohabit in a
GIOVANNI RASPINI – A space extending over 61/a-b. T: 0815513363
famous throughout the world. Open Mon-Sat enthusiasts, at this store, Mercedes owners 600 sales points scattered throughout Italy perfect mix, giving life to luxurious products.
10am-1.30pm and Mon-Fri 4.30pm-8pm - via a surface area of 35 sq.m in the heart of the MONCLER – Boutique and home to the famous Open Mon-Sat 10am-2pm and 4pm-8pm –
will find everything necessary to coordinate and the world. Its rich array of collections, an
Filangieri 15/D shopping centre renowned for its beautifully “puffer” jacket. A jacket that is ideal both for www.albertoguardiani.com - via Gaetano
luggage, jackets, watches and pens with their expression of pure Italian design, are a bargain
handcrafted silverware. Open Mon-Sat mountain and city wear. Open Mon-Sat 10am-
PINKO – Pinko stands out thanks to its stunning car. Open Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm and Mon-Fri fashionista’s dream come true. Bags, small Filangieri, 76/78 – T: 081.7643884
10.30am-1.30pm and 4.30pm-8pm - www. 14pm and 4pm-8pm – www.moncler.com –
decor, studied down to the last detail, 4.30pm-8pm - www.mercedes-benz-spot.it/ - leather goods, luggage, briefcases, accessories
raspini.it – via Bisignano, 63 – T: 081.4976064 via Filangieri, 21 – T: 081.421159 DELIBERTI – Style, research, design and a
including its carefully planned arrangement via Nisco, 16 and gifts at affordable prices. www.carpisa.it –
profound intuition for new trends is the
ILEANA DELLA CORTE – Her motto is: “I like Via Nisco, 1 – T: 081418390; via Toledo, 249/251 MUSEUM SHOP - Shop for gifts and souvenirs
of lights, colours and displays. Open Mon-Sat R-STORE – Authorized Apple assistance centre. byword of this house of shoes. Open Mon-
being elegant”. Open Mon 4.30pm-8pm; Tues- – T: 0812525067 typical of Naples. T-shirts, jewelry, bronzes,
10am-1.30pm and Mon-Fri 4.30pm-8pm – A place where you can try out all the latest Sat 10am-1.30pm and 4.30pm-8pm - www.
Sat 10am-1.30pm and 4.30pm-8pm – www. prints, statues, books, CDs, DVDs and
www.pinko.it - via dei Mille, 1/7 – T: 081.4976360 applications or simply browse through FURLA – Since 1927, Furla has produced and deliberti.it – via dei Mille, 65 – T: 081.6584363
ileanadellacorte.it – via Carlo Poerio, 52/a – T: stationery with themes dedicated to Naples -
everything that the universe of the bitten distributed stylish, high-class, exclusively
PRIDE CONCEPT STORE PENALTY – A space 081.7646101 www.museum-shop.it - Largo Corpo di Napoli, DEV – Carries the men’s, women’s and children’s
apple has to offer. Open Mon-Sat 10am-2pm “Made-in-Italy” bags, footwear and accessories
where research and the experimentation of 3. T: 3891194169 lines of renowned brands Tod’s, Hogan and
and 4pm-8pm - www.rstore.it - via Nisco, 14/16 INTRECCI PREZIOSI – The result of passion and throughout the globe. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-
new brands is the name of the game. Open artisanal perfection, each piece is produced Fay. Open Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm and Mon-Fri
– T: 081.404246 1.30pm and 4.30pm-8pm - www.furla.com – OSTUNI – For the past fifty years, Ostuni has
Mon-Sat 10am-2pm and 4pm-8pm - www. using only the most precious materials and via Gaetano Filangieri, 26 – T: 081.414218 4.30pm-8pm – via Gaetano Filangieri, 28/33 –
been a leader in the world of fragrances and
pridepenalty.it – via Cavallerizza a Chiaia, 27/28 time-honoured design techniques. Open is known, above all, for its rarities. Bottles T: 081.410156
PIQUADRO – The company specializes in
– T: 081.418542
JEWELLERY & Tues-Sat 9,30am-1,30am; Mon-Sat 4,30pm-8pm
- www.intreccipreziosi.com - via Carlo Poerio,
business and travel luggage, trolleys and that are almost impossible to find anywhere
else and unrivalled essences. Open Mon-Sat
ERNESTO ESPOSITO SHOES – A Neapolitan
RAFFAELE CAPASSO - Established in 1905,
Raffaele Capazzo has always managed to WATCHES 89 – T: 0810321203
suitcases, mainly in leather or hi-tech materials,
a blend of traditional Italian craftsmanship,
9am-1.30pm and 4pm-8pm – via Morelli,
designer of international repute, his passion
for fashion, art and design have served as
always keep abreast of the times by not only MANTOVANO – On offer are items of high-class 23 – T: 081.7643903 – via D. Colonna, 39 – T: his main sources of inspiration. Open Mon-
ALESSANDRA LIBONATI JEWELS – AA young, design, innovation and technology. Open
offering apparel form men, women and 081.401804 Sat 10am-1.30pm and 4.30pm-8pm - www.
design company where attention to fashion jewellery, both antique and modern, Sheffield Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm and Mon-Fri 4.30pm-
children but also home furnishings and linen – and contemporary trends plays a key role. silver and objets d’art. Open Mon-Sat 10am- 8pm - www.piquadro.com – via Carducci, 32 PROFUMO EMOZIONI OLFATTIVE – A ernestoespositoshoes.com/ - via Santa
Corso Umberto I, 147 – T: 081204741 Open Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm and 4.30pm-8pm 1.30pm and Mon-Fri 4.30pm-8pm – www. – T: 081.419245 boutique dedicated to niche fragrances for Caterina a Chiaia, 20 – T: 081.4238325
24 W H E R E N A P L E S I C O A S T & I S L A N D S I N O V E M B E R 2015 w w w. w heretravel er. com 25You can also read
