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THE OFFICIAL MAGAZINE OF WINE MARLBOROUGH ISSUE NO. 262 / SEPTEMBER 2016 MAYORAL BRAGATO LABOUR TOHU CANDIDATES NEWS CONCERNS VINEYARD wine-marlborough.co.nz
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22 this issue... 30 REGULARS FEATURES 3 Editorial 12 Bragato News - The wine industry converged in 4 From the Board - Jack Glover Marlborough last month for the 22nd annual New Zealand Winegrowers’ National 6 Tasman Crop Met Report Romeo Bragato Conference. Winepress looks at some of 26 the topics covered. 28 Gen Y-ine - Richelle Collier 16 Labour Pains - Marlborough’s 30 The Block - Tohu wine industry needs to take a zero tolerance approach to the exploitation of labour, say 32 Biosecurity Watch - Grafted Grapevine Standard industry members, following recent breaches of labour law. 22 Silver Secateurs - Last 36 Export News month’s Wine Marlborough Silver Secateurs competition 38 Industry News gave recognition to people like Ni-Van vineyard worker 28 Daniel Nakomaha (pictured 40 ANZ Wine Happenings top right) doing a hard task in trying conditions throughout winter. Cover: Nikolai St George with the Fuder barrels he 24 Up and Coming - Some of is using at Giesen Wines (pg20). Photo by the country’s best young Jim Tannock. winemakers and viticulturists competed in Marlborough last month. Winepress September 2016 / 1
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From the General Manager: Marcus Pickens 03 577 9299 Editor marcus@wine-marlborough.co.nz LAST MONTH was one of highs and lows in Marlborough. Editor: Highs included the Silver Secateurs competition, celebrating the skills and Sophie Preece recognising the efforts of the people who work in the cold vines throughout the 027 308 4455 long winter, providing a backbone to our wine industry. sophie@sophiepreece.co.nz But less than a week later, a release from the Labour Inspectorate outlined Advertising: serious breaches by at least two vineyard contractors, followed swiftly by an Harriet Wadworth Employment Relations Authority penalty against a contractor who doctored 03 577 9299 timesheets. That’s a real low. harriet@wine-marlborough.co.nz It may be just a few operators, but the growers employing them need to take responsibility for this strike to Marlborough’s reputation, and ensure the people Wine Marlborough Board: working on their land are being paid a fair wage with good working conditions. Clive Jones Issues with the treatment of labour have been around for a long time, and cjones@nautilusestate.com they have always been unacceptable. However, the market’s reaction to poor Ben Ensor sustainability measures – including employment practices - has become far more ben.lisa@clear.net.nz palpable in recent years. Large grocery chains in foreign markets would be “horrified” to find out that Callum Linklater some workers in Marlborough are exploited, says Geoff Matthews on pg 16. So it callumandsarah@xtra.co.nz is essential - for social conscience and commercial success - that Marlborough’s Jack Glover growers, wine companies and contractors make sure everything to do with their jack.glover@accolade-wines.co.nz wine is above board. Delegates at last month’s Romeo Bragato conference in Marlborough heard Nick Entwistle that 30% of people can now be categorised as conscious consumers, who will take nick@wairauriverwines.co.nz the back-story of a product into account before buying it. Rhyan Wardman Some will be swayed most by the environment, perhaps, and others by rhyan@giesen.co.nz health, or animal ethics, but few will like the sound of vineyard workers being exploited. Samantha Wickham samantha@ormondnurseries.co.nz “We are now all part of a leading industry,” New Zealand Winegrowers Chair Steve Green told the conference audience. “So we have to make sure we Simon Bishell are leaders - leaders in social responsibility and sustainability, in caring for our simon@caythorpe.nz workers.” Stuart Dudley Bragato was another high for the industry, with a raft of research projects stuartd@villamaria.co.nz presented by the teams of scientists working with industry members. Beyond the dazzling array of discussions about DNA and ecology, oxygen Tom Trolove and minerality, there were sessions on marketing, management and financial tom.trolove@framingham.co.nz resilience, as well as some compelling conversations about those conscious consumers. Printed by: This Winepress touches on a few of the sessions, and future editions will Blenheim Print Ltd dig a little deeper. In the meantime, information from all the Bragato sessions is 03 578 1322 available on www.nzwine.com. SOPHIE PREECE Disclaimer: The views and articles that are expressed and appear in Winepress are entirely those of contributors and in no way reflect the policy of the Marlborough Winegrowers. Any advice given, implied or suggested should be considered on its merits, and no responsibility can be taken for problems arising from the use of such information. Winepress September 2016 / 3
From the Board Marlborough’s wine industry needs to nurture tomorrow’s trail-blazers. JACK GLOVER AS A board we annually review our on how we address strategic initiatives, key issues and leadership for activities we feel are most important our region as we to focus on for Wine Marlborough. mature beyond Naturally there are key areas being the global that we always highlight as being ‘new kid’. integral in the success of our region Leadership and our members, such as labour, is often a environmental issues, marketing, misunderstood events and the challenges of growing concept. I am sure each season. many members Our session this year honed in have received a on the need to bring a programme book on the topic in that focuses on future planning for Christmas and ongoing leadership within or a birthday, Marlborough as it shifts gear globally or listened to a from new kid on the block to a mind-shifting address at a conference to the challenges that industry faces, sustainable region across all measures. or speaking engagement. The simple and assisting them to develop the Our vineyards, the grapes we thing to understand with leadership skills needed to problem solve these harvest, wine we produce and the is that it is not just management challenges effectively, is paramount for people who travel the globe telling or managing. These things come the region’s future success. our stories have driven a global as a result of good leadership. As a board we are at the early phenomenon, which had more than its Leadership inspires rather than stages of this concept, but we do have fair share of bouquets at the inaugural plans, it uses vision to enhance it positioned as a strategic area of focus International Sauvignon Blanc technical capabilities, it is delivered by and it’s our role as a board to assist the Celebration earlier this year. With this influencers rather than authoritarians, development of Marlborough’s next steep growth comes a need to further and leaders will “we” rather than generation. develop those who are to continue this “I”. These are the leadership traits Over the coming months we will success and learn from pioneers and we believe are important to start begin to evolve this strategy further trail-blazers who put our region on the developing in our region and with our and reach out to our members to gauge map. members. their interest in giving Marlborough If you take Australia’s leadership I’m part of a generation in the best long term sustainable programme as an example, they Marlborough who have benefitted advantage through collective recognised this need some years ago substantially from our first-to-market leadership. when they established the Future pioneers and the head-turning wine Leaders Programme in 2006. This styles they produced and promoted. programme identifies 15 people each I feel we are now at a time as a year to be mentored, developed and region where we need to share these have their perspectives heard by an learnings and allow the next wave initiative owned and sponsored by to gain experience to ensure we Wine Australia. As a board we believe position ourselves sustainably for the now is the time to begin a discussion future. Exposing our future leaders 4 / Winepress September 2016
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By Victoria Raw Table 1: Blenheim Weather Data – August 2016 August 2016 in summary August August 2016 August Period August August 2016 was a month of two 2016 compared LTA of LTA 2015 halves; the first half was cold and to LTA sunny days, recording the majority GDD’s for month -Max/Min¹ 6.9 -11.6 18.5 (1996-2015) 22.5 of the ground and air frosts; and the GDD’s for month – Mean² 25.8 -9.5 35.3 (1996-2015) 37.2 second half was warm and sunny. Growing Degree Days Total Jul – Aug 16 – Max/Min 14.3 -13.7 28.0 (1996-2015) 29.4 Temperature Jul - Aug 16 – Mean 57.3 -0.8 58.5 (1996-2015) 59.7 The mean temperature of 8.2°C for Mean Maximum (°C) 13.5 -0.7°C 14.2 (1986-2015) 14.1 August was 0.8°C below the long-term Mean Minimum (°C) 3.0 -0.9°C 3.9 (1986-2015) 4.3 average temperature of 9.0°C. Mean Temp (°C) 8.2 -0.8°C 9.0 (1986-2015) 9.2 The second week of August was Grass Frosts (
Table 3: Winter temperature for the four years 2013 to 2016 compared with the potential evapotranspiration exceeds long-term average rainfall by 399.2 mm. That would be June July August Mean or Total the amount of water that would need Mean Temp 2013 (°C) 8.9 9.1 10.8 9.6 °C to be supplied as irrigation to keep a Mean Temp 2014 (°C) 10.8 7.5 8.6 9.0 °C pasture actively growing. Mean Temp 2015 (°C) 9.0 7.5 9.2 8.6 °C Figure 2 illustrates the severe Mean Temp 2016 (°C) 10.1 8.7 8.2 9.0 °C water deficit experienced in both 12 LTA Mean Temp (°C) 8.7 7.9 9.0 8.5 °C month periods from July 2014 to June 2015 and from July 2015 to June 2016. Ground Frosts 2013 11 18 6 35 The 12 months from July 2014 to June Ground Frosts 2014 2 16 13 31 2015 recorded a water deficit of -683.6 Ground Frosts 2015 13 19 9 41 mm. This was 283.3 mm more than Ground Frosts 2016 10 12 10 32 average, due to the fact that these 12 LTA Ground Frosts 12.1 15.1 10.5 37.7 months received the lowest rainfall total on record. July 2015 to June 2016 Mean Ground Frost Temp 2013 (°C) -2.2 -2.5 -1.7 -2.3 recorded a deficit of -635.6 mm. In Mean Ground Frost Temp 2014 (°C) -1.3 -3.0 -2.7 -2.8 both seasons the soil went into water Mean Ground Frost Temp 2015 (°C) -2.7 -3.4 -2.8 -3.1 deficit in early September compared Mean Ground Frost Temp 2016 (°C) -2.2 -2.9 -3.2 -2.8 with mid-October for the average. LTA – Long Term Average The soil has been above field capacity from mid-June to mid-August 2016 but months January to August 2016 is Potential Water Deficit has subsequently gone into decline 1705.1 hours; 109.7% of the long-term Potential water deficit is the and as of 31st August sites at 13.4mm. average (Table 1). difference between rainfall received This signals that at the start of the and potential evapotranspiration. In new season on 1 September 2016 that Rainfall Blenheim the average potential water the seasonal water balance has little August 2015 recorded 39.2 mm deficit for 12 months is -399.2 mm capacity to buffer any dry weather that rainfall; 62.4% of the long-term average (1996-2015): may arise. of 62.8 mm (1930-2015). Both August Total Rainfall 608.9 mm – Total Of the four months May to August 2014 and 2015 received below average Evapotranspiration 1009.3 mm = 2016, May and June recorded above rainfall (15.3% and 79.3% respectively) -399.2 mm average rainfall. The potential water This says that in an average year surplus for these four months was Figure 1: Monthly and total rainfall for January to August 2015 and 2016 Winepress September 2016 / 7
+46.8 mm, compared with the average viewed on the Marlborough District (http://www.marlborough.govt.nz/ of +73.8 mm. Hence Marlborough Council website. By clicking on the Environment/Groundwater/Status/ needs regular above average rainfall different wells that they monitor Groundwater-Levels.aspx) events throughout Spring 2016 to around the district you are able to see ensure that the province does not enter the current well depths compared with Victoria Raw a third season of drought. last year, as well as the average for Plant & Food Research / Marlborough The influence of the winter rainfall the site. Well depths vary according to Research Centre on the Wairau Plains aquifer can be location. Figure 2: Seasonal water balance for Blenheim: difference between 3-month totals of rainfall and potential evapotranspiration Choose HOLDING THE FORT AMBUSH STRATEGICALLY DEFEAT YOUR ENEMY Your Weapons Protectorhml HML32 HML32 + copper + for reliable + sulphur + sulphur + copper potassium bicarbonate disease control + Spray with 0.5% Spray HML32 + sulphur + copper To eradicate powdery Protector + sulphur instead of 0.5% Protector and sulphur mildew infection at 10-14 day at 5% capfall, 80% capfall, pre-bunch Spray HML32 + copper + intervals. closure and just before veraison. potassium bicarbonate. For higher challenge situations, such as previous history, disease pressure or susceptible varieties, continue applications of HML32 + sulphur + copper after flowering at 10 day intervals and re-cover after any major rain event. See the Fungal Spray Programme on www.henrymanufacturing.co.nz HML32 Henry Manufacturing Call Chris Henry on 027 294 1490 non-residual pesticides armour plate for grapes email chris@henrymanufacturing.co.nz or contact your local Farmlands technical advisor. 8 / Winepress September 2016
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Candidate Questions In the lead up to the local body elections, Winepress asks some questions of the four Mayoral candidates. Brian Dawson such as tourism, so that collectively we What do you see as the top priorities are making the most of all the region for the wine industry in the next three has to offer. years? How would you go about supporting The right solution for the the region’s largest primary sector if you Flaxbourne Community Irrigation become our Mayor? Scheme needs to be found and I will work very closely with the the members of the scheme fully wine industry to ensure that Council is supported to ensure it is a success. playing its part in being an enabler of Working towards building year- the success of the industry. I want to round work in the industry so that as see the common sense application of many locals as possible can have it. rules and regulations. Industry stakeholders working I am very focussed on attracting Employer scheme) workers. While collectively to solve the issue of people to work, live, study and do we acknowledge the policy of New accommodation for the additional business in Marlborough. I will work Zealand workers first, the Government workers that the industry is going to with the industry to see that they have must allow sufficient RSE workers to require over the next five years. the quantity and quality of skills and enable the industry to function. Government understanding the labour required. I also want the wine industry to needs of the industry, particularly in I will advocate strongly to leverage off the newly created Only relation to labour requirements. Government that they must take Marlborough brand. We need to work The industry working closely with a positive and practical approach out how this can be advanced. other key Marlborough industries to RSE (Recognised Seasonal John Davis approach needs to be taken on What do you see as the top priorities industry growth which must be for the wine industry in the next three sustainable and quality driven. years? The market of supply and demand As the wine industry is the biggest will play its part when it comes to revenue earner for Marlborough, developing worker accommodation. there needs to be a totally unified However, developers must first be sure approach between Council, the main of the costs, it’s an expensive game to industry players, Wine Marlborough play, and do their homework first. We and government representatives. The also need to look at and address the latest round of emergency meetings cost barriers to developing purpose demonstrates that Council have not built accommodation. on quality growth. been proactive or progressive in their How would you go about supporting We need to unite with the best planning. the region’s largest primary sector if you skilled players in the team, agree on The five major issues for become our Mayor? the direction, develop one mind-set any Mayor to focus on are water, I would start by devoting the and deliver. viticulture, aquaculture, tourism and time necessary to deal with the The strengths I would bring to the CBD. They are currently very real issues, so no more emergency the role of Mayor are leadership and disjointed and lack planning. An meetings. I’d create a team of experts action. I would make viticulture and investment in time, expertise and and representatives from the relevant its sustainable growth in Marlborough planning are required to pave the way industry sectors and together we would a priority. I’m action orientated and forward. create short, medium and long term results driven, so we would certainly A long term and collaborative plans that are sustainable and focused see positive change and momentum. 10 / Winepress September 2016
John Leggett Marlborough can be a vibrant, What do you see as the top priorities proud region that embraces and for the wine industry in the next three reflects the world-class reputation years? of our wines. Marlborough can be a Sustainable growth and reputation region where everyone thrives – in are two pressing issues for the business, work, school, home, and our industry and our region. community. Growth is fantastic when Let’s work together and make that managed well, whether you’re running happen. a vineyard, a winery, a contracting How would you go about supporting firm, or the region. the region’s largest primary sector if you our communities’ quality of life, social As the industry grows, it needs a become our Mayor? infrastructure and guardianship of strong Council alongside it to enable The wine industry is incredibly Marlborough’s environment. growth, ensure regional efficiencies, significant for Marlborough. Marlborough deserves a strong provide physical and social The industry and Council face leader who can facilitate open infrastructure, and inspire healthy many challenges together including and balanced debate, champion communities. water, labour shortages, sustainable governance, and foster outstanding The industry has a part to play by growth management, housing, engagement with our community. ensuring that as it grows it respects environmental concerns and social I have the strength, expertise our people, our environment, and our infrastructure. and commitment to lead an engaged reputation. But we also celebrate many Council that is united in leading Breaching labour or successes together. The Marlborough the region forward and considers environmental laws damages your region is internationally recognised all decisions along the way with company’s reputation, your industry’s through the wines produced here. professional integrity and exemplary reputation, and your region’s. Let’s We’re in this together. governance. instead work together to ensure As Mayor I will be working with I will lead Marlborough from the sustainable industry growth and build Councillors to ensure we support the front – with confidence, commitment, a strong community. industry’s growth while also balancing energy and integrity. Colin King accommodated and employed by What do you see as the top priorities responsible contractors who meet all for the wine industry in the next three their legal obligations toward their years? employees. The Marlborough wine industry’s That research and development top priority must be maintaining the with effective technology transfer positive reputation it presently holds continues so the standard of vineyard in the market place. This continues management provides winemakers to be the most valuable asset for the with the best quality grapes. Marlborough wine industry now and How would you go about supporting into the future. the region’s largest primary sector if you every opportunity, whether within The Geographical Indications bill become our Mayor? Marlborough or whenever the that is currently before Parliament As Mayor of Marlborough I will occasion presents itself overseas. must be introduced into law so ensure that the world knows Blenheim I will maintain strong legal protection can be given to the is New Zealand’s wine capital and relationships with central name “Marlborough”. This will mean continue to actively maintain and Government to ensure that whenever that all wines sold with the name promote our region’s enviable a prime ministerial or ministerial Marlborough are genuinely from reputation. delegation is heading overseas, that Marlborough. I will spend sufficient time with the Marlborough wine industry is Ensuring that the highest the wine industry to understand the strongly represented. possible standards of management emerging challenges confronting it I will instruct council to provide are maintained throughout the and ensure that there are no barriers to whatever resources are necessary winemaking process when discharging sustainable growth in the Marlborough to support and secure central liquids or solids back into the wine industry. Government funding so as to advance environment. I would positively welcome Marlborough’s position as the largest We must make sure that those visiting delegations and advocate and most important wine region in working in the vineyards are well passionately for the wine industry at New Zealand. Winepress September 2016 / 11
Romeo Bragato New Zealand’s wine industry a star performer. SOPHIE PREECE STELLAR EXPORT growth has Annual Report shows exports have transformed a small, domestically risen 10% in the last year, to just under focussed industry into an export force $1.6 billion. That’s the 21st consecutive for New Zealand, says New Zealand year the industry has experienced Winegrowers Chair Steve Green. significant export growth, and it is well contribution to the social, economic “Through high dollars and on track to reaching its target of $2 and environmental welfare of our low, through recessions and near billion of exports by 2020, Steve said. country.” depressions, through tech booms and “Whether we get there by 2020 or 2019 In the wake of the conference, busts… wine exports have been the or 2021… the goal is now in sight and Steve says it highlighted best practice, star performer for New Zealand,” he what an achievement that will be.” enabling winemakers and grape told delegates at last month’s Romeo The industry is a leader, “so we growers to implement the many new Bragato Conference in Marlborough. have to make sure we are leaders”, he initiatives on offer, “to continue to “We are now acknowledged as a wine said. “Leaders in social responsibility work towards those goals of economic exporter of the first rank. We craft and sustainability, in caring for our and social sustainability”. and market distinctly New Zealand, workers. Leaders in our relationships Information from all the Bragato high quality, high value wines. We are with our neighbours and leaders in sessions will become available on www. renowned for this.” tourism. We need to lead, and by nzwine.com New Zealand Winegrowers’ leading we will make an even greater Understanding Vineyard Ecosystems A complex research programme was placed under the microscope at the Romeo Bragato Conference, thanks to several of the geneticists, ecologists, viticulturists and research scientists involved. The $7 million Vineyard Ecosystems programme, which has just completed the first of its seven years, involves 12 vineyards in Marlborough and another 12 in Hawke’s Bay. The vineyards are an even mix of “future” farming sites, with chemical free management techniques, and “contemporary” sites, using chemicals. Over the past year, hundreds of holes have been dug, soil samples collected, DNA extracted and data accumulated. Statisticians will now continue to crunch vast numbers to offer a better understanding of vineyard Simon Hooker ecology and the impacts of vineyard management practices. Among the speakers were Auckland University’s industry’s sustainability aspirations. He says the Vineyard Associate Professor Mat Goddard and PhD student Ecosystems Programme puts New Zealand’s wine industry Paulina Giraldo-Perez, who will use next generation at the forefront globally. sequencing to compare management techniques over the “The complexity of ecosystems hasn’t really been seven-year period. explored in vineyards. By understanding the interaction Simon Hooker, New Zealand Winegrowers General between all those different organisms, you can start to Manager of Research and Innovation, says he was manage your vineyard in a more integrated fashion, recently asked how research was progressing the wine specific to its ecology.” 12 / Winepress September 2016
Yes to GIA Industry votes for greater influence on biosecurity decisions. SOPHIE PREECE THE NEW Zealand wine industry for GIA and improved biosecurity,” is to become a partner with the says NZW Biosecurity Manager Edwin Government in decision making Massey. “New Zealand is a trading Brown Marmorated Stink Bug can around biosecurity readiness and nation and with increased import and impact on production and quality, and response. export, and increased travel as well, Edwin tainted Marlborough wine with New Zealand Winegrowers (NZW) we are seeing biosecurity risk become synthetic stink big odour to open eyes Chair Steve Green announced at the more and more prevalent. I think and noses to its threat. Romeo Bragato conference that 96% people see GIA as a means to increase He says growers and winery staff of voting members and more than our readiness for a growing threat.” need to be vigilant over the high-risk 99% of the levy vote favoured creating Edwin honed in on “the number season, from the end of September a Government Industry Agreement one biosecurity threat to New to the end of April, by looking out (GIA). Zealand’s wine industry” at his for a 1.7cm-long shield shaped bug “It’s a really, really strong Bragato workshop, entitled “How with distinctive marking around the endorsement from the member base to stop the stink in your wine”. The abdomen. Financal Resilience New Zealand Winegrowers (NZW) will soon launch its for the wine industry. The fourth advisor, Marlborough new business toolkit, a free online resource for members. farmer Doug Avery, has helped develop a page on mental Project Manager Tracy Benge says the toolkit will offer a health and wellbeing, she says. “Because when looking to package of best practice business guidance and tools in protect and grow your assets, the most important asset is one place, in order to help those in the industry manage you.” business risks. Over recent years there has been a big shift in financial The toolkit covers 10 areas of business risk, from sustainability. Global financial markets have developed business planning, financing and insurance solutions, to sustainability performance tools, such as the Dow Jones financial benchmarking and succession planning. Each Sustainability Indices, which tie a company’s valuation to area links to downloadable business guides, website links how well they are performing financially, environmentally and case studies. and socially. It’s an ethos that reflects the SWNZ pillars, Tracy says the resources have been developed says Tracy. “The business pillar of sustainability recognises with the assistance of a group of agri-business experts that sustainability is the balancing of people, planet and including BNZ, FMG and Crowe Horwath, and are tailored profit.” Winepress September 2016 / 13
Precise Breeding New genetic technologies debated. SOPHIE PREECE NEW ZEALAND needs to urgently address outdated regulations to take advantage of brand new and fast developing precise breeding outcome rather than the method used.” technologies, says a breeding and The threat is there because other genomics expert. countries, including the United States, Plant & Food Research General have deregulated the technology “and Manager of Science Kieran Elborough now have the capacity and regulatory says New Zealand is already being left support to produce superior cultivars Kieran Elborough behind by countries embracing Crispr very quickly”, he says. “This will be an (Clustered regularly interspaced short issue at our borders and in our markets palindromic repeats), which allows “The worst scenario for us as because these superior cultivars existing genes to be edited in a precise plant breeders is that we will not have cannot be scientifically differentiated way, at the single base pair level, a highly effective tool we can use to from conventional cultivars, but without adding any DNA. compete... We have perhaps the best are regulated as a GMO (genetically The resulting plant is identical breeding science in the whole world in modified organism) in New Zealand.” in every way to one that can be New Zealand, for all the different crops That means a wine could come produced by conventional breeding, we are involved in, but we could fast be into New Zealand from another but is created in a far shorter time, says left behind if we are limited in the use country that has embraced the Kieran. of this tool by outdated regulations.” technology, but it might be several Crispr is regulated under New Kieran says precise breeding years before it is revealed that the wine Zealand’s Hazardous Substances technology can either be a threat or an should in fact be regulated here as a and New Organisms (HSNO) act, opportunity to New Zealand’s plant GMO, says Kieran. “It’s going to be a which Kieran wants to see updated. based industries. “(It is) an opportunity huge issue for you as an industry to try “Legislation in New Zealand needs for us to offer fast, accurate breeding and defend that position. And it’s only to catch up quickly with the pace of for ‘step change’ cultivars that fit with that position because of regulations.” breeding technology development,” he New Zealand’s specific needs, but only Kieran spoke of Crispr at the says. if New Zealand chooses to regulate the Bragato New Horizon’s workshop. New Zealand-native grape vine clones New Zealand’s vineyards have limited clonal diversity University, Darrell’s team has developed a rapid clonal inherited from countries on the other side of the world, identity test, which is being used to recognise mutations says Lincoln University scientist Darrell Lizamore. and use them to breed a more diverse clonal stock. He spoke to Bragato audiences about his work to They currently have 200 plants in the field, and produce clones suited to New Zealand conditions by another 2000 in tissue culture. Darrell says the time harnessing natural mutations in grapevine DNA.“Mutation needed to progress the project from science labs to is the natural source of species diversity,” he told delegates. working vineyards depends on the level of investment. However, artificial selection, as has been practiced However, it is feasible that when existing vineyards have through manual breeding over hundreds of years, serves to their vines replaced in 15 to 20 years, growers could choose drastically reduce that gene pool. a “New Zealand-native” clone rather than a French one. That has resulted in very limited diversity, which is “We are developing the next generation of clones to be a major obstacle to breeding clones that are optimised used in New Zealand.” for New Zealand conditions. With funding from New The October Winepress will have a more detailed Zealand Winegrowers, Plant & Food Research and Lincoln feature on Darrell’s work. 14 / Winepress September 2016
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Labour Laws Flouted Marlborough’s wine industry is being threatened by illegal labour practices. SOPHIE PREECE MARLBOROUGH’S WINE industry Of the 10 independent contractors needs to take a zero tolerance visited, two were breaching minimum approach to the exploitation of labour, wage, holiday pay, and record keeping says the Chair of Wine Marlborough. requirements, with another seven Following revelations of breached asked to supply additional records. labour laws, Clive Jones says it Kevin says the industry needs is “absolutely frustrating” that a to take some ownership of the few contractors, and the growers issue, including seeking assurances that employ them, are putting the from contractors that all minimum reputation of Marlborough’s wine employment standards are being industry at risk. “The law is the law met. “By engaging with contractors and people need to comply with all the who choose to ignore employment relevant regulations.” standards, the New Zealand wine Labour Inspectorate Regional industry is exposing themselves to Clive Jones Manager Kevin Finnegan says a joint reputational damage.” Marlborough vineyard operation Nine contractors from the between his department, Immigration Recognised Seasonal Employer (RSE) Clive says it is “no coincidence” New Zealand and Inland Revenue scheme were also visited, with all that the RSE contractors came out found contractors committing serious nine found to be compliant with clean. “The people that rely on RSE breaches of employment standards. employment standards. workers for part of their labour force Best Practice Wine companies have a corporate social responsibility are exploited, and it’s that should include protecting the workers they rely on, frustrating to know says the Operations Director of Lion’s New Zealand wine some elements are interests. letting the industry Geoff Matthews says since around 2008, when Wither down, he says. Hills started to use more contract labour, the company has “We have a social ensured it has the right systems and processes in place for responsibility, and as their own employees, as well as ensuring similar systems the industry grows for any supplier or contractor they use. it’s important that “It came about from us wanting to be responsible as you are doing the a corporation - to be seen to be doing the right thing. We right thing.” Responsible employer Vinepower didn’t want to use a contract company or a labour supplier, Illegal labour works for Wither Hills with both Kiwi to find out at some point down the track that they weren’t practices have been and RSE staff. compliant with various laws and regulations. This is not an issue at various only labour laws, it also extends to health and safety, points in the past, but the wine industry is a lot larger pastoral care and ethical standards that we as a company than it used to be “and everything revolves around its are often expected to have as a supplier of premium reputation as a premium wine producer”, Geoff says. “So products to our customers and consumers.” we need to be doing the right thing to ensure we maintain Large grocery chains in foreign markets would be that reputation.” “horrified” to find out that some workers in Marlborough 16 / September August 2016
have been put through the hoops to through Winepress and through www. make sure they are compliant with employment.govt.nz.” the system. I think that over the years One grape grower Winepress they have all developed a duty of spoke to says everyone should care and real sense of responsibility play their part in ensuring good for the people who are working for employment practices. “There aren’t them – whether they are Kiwis or RSE foolproof systems in place, but growers workers.” can and should, in my opinion, take Wine Marlborough offers guidance some responsibility on this. This could and advice, but relies on members to go a long way towards eliminating ensure the contractors they employ illegal practices.” are compliant, and on the Labour This year she went through the Inspectorate to deal with cases of process of hiring a new pruning shoddy practice, says Clive. “The board contractor, asked to see the required is always concerned about labour, and paperwork early on in the discussions, it’s always on our agenda. We do what and explained what her requirements we can, but unfortunately we have no were regarding compliance and work authority.” practices. She also rang John Maxwell Wine Marlborough General of the Labour Inspectorate to ask Manager Marcus Pickens says he what her rights and obligations were, Marcus Pickens was “deeply disappointed” to read the in order to be satisfied that workers Labour Inspectorate’s media release. on her property were being treated “It is distasteful to learn that around the country and potentially fairly. That included asking if the some people who work to make around the world.” prospective contractor was known to something we are all so proud of are The news should be a wakeup the department, either negatively or being exploited in our industry. One call to the industry at large, Marcus positively. indiscretion is too many – more over says. “The challenge is to stamp it It was an easy process, but left the coming months may change our out and follow accepted guidelines her wondering whether all contractors stellar reputation – in our community, and advice that is freely available could be required to be RSE certified Recognising RSE for anyone Growers using shoddy contractors should receive a hefty employing fine, says a Marlborough contractor frustrated at blows to them.” the sector’s reputation. Labour Marlborough’s RSE (Recognised Seasonal Employer Inspectorate scheme) contractor spokesperson Aaron Jay says breaches Regional of labour laws are an industry problem, not just a Manager contractor one. “Yes, your contractor should be fined, but Kevin there should be bigger fines for the grower using them, in Finnegan my point of view.” says RSE, an Nine RSE contractors were investigated in the recent immigration labour investigation and all were found to be compliant scheme that allows Aaron Jay with labour laws. However, Aaron says people reading about the breaches in the UK, where his wider family employers lives, will assume companies like his are complicit. “So to recruit staff from endorsed countries, currently allows I’m gutted from personal perspective and also from an accreditation to approximately 136 employers. “There is industry perspective, because the last thing consumers a cap of 9500 on the numbers that can come into New want to do is sit down with their bottle of wine and think Zealand in a calendar year; thus not everyone or anyone of slave labour in New Zealand.” can employ these people.” He would like to see contractors join the RSE scheme However, RSE contractors can also employ New or get out of the business. “They don’t need to recruit Zealanders, and the scheme stipulates that Kiwis have first from the Pacific Islands, but they would be registered and crack at positions, he says. “There is no automatic right to recognised as having good practices. That’s peace of mind employ from the islands.” Winepress September 2016 / 17
if they want to remain in the business. providers of their compliance with “That would both simplify the health and safety laws, and looks for process for growers and provide some evidence of that. protection for workers.” The latest investigation adds fuel Wine Marlborough Labour to the argument for a Labour Officer to Coordinator Nicolette Prendergast be based in Blenheim, he says. “I think believes Sustainable Winegrowing New for people who are compliant it won’t Zealand (SWNZ) is another avenue to make any difference, but I suspect for ensuring better practice, by taking a some it is a case of out of sight, out deeper look at a grower’s contractor of mind.” It is a topic NZW has raised history in the two yearly audit. a number of times with Government Wine Marlborough was aware of over the years, he says. “From our the impending labour investigations perspective this just reinforces the and was asked to provide any need for this.” intelligence they could, says Nicolette. While she is not surprised by the Penalties outcome, she is disappointed that Employers who breach employment some growers are complicit, because law are subject to enforcement action, Philip Gregan which can include penalties of up to they are not checking the background of their contractor. “They are bringing $50,000 for individuals and up to the industry down.” looking after the land and the air $100,000 or three times the financial New Zealand Winegrowers and the water, we have to look after gain for companies. MBIE encourages (NZW) Chief Executive Philip Gregan our employees as well. I think most anyone in this situation, or who knows says growers and wineries have a people in the industry would take that of anyone in this situation, to call its duty to ensure that workers on their absolutely for granted, but clearly there contact centre on 0800 209 020. property, whether they are employees are some employees who are not being or not, are treated in accordance with treated appropriately.” the law. “Anything less than that is Philip says SWNZ seeks clearly totally unacceptable… Like confirmation from contract labour Anyone employing a contractor should: • Seek proof the contractor has public liability insurance • Seek proof of tax exemption (Wine Marlborough have a relevant form) • Hold a register of names of everyone on your vineyard every day • Understand that vineyard workers are due the minimum hourly rate, regardless of whether they are on a piece rate. For more information, contact: john.maxwell@mbie.govt.nz 03 9892965 / 0274491851 richard.wilson@mbie.govt.nz 03 9892957 / 0274948674 or contact Wine Marlborough Labour Coordinator Nicolette Richard Wilson from Immigration New Zealand, left, and John Maxwell from the Labour Prendergast on 0275778440 Inspectorate. 18 / Winepress September 2016
Digging Deeper SOPHIE PREECE THE LIVING organisms in a single teaspoon of healthy soil outnumber humans in the world, says a consultant urging the wine industry to seek a deeper understanding of their land. AgConsult’s Gerard Besamusca spoke at an Organic Winegrowers New Zealand (OWNZ) workshop at the Growers are only scratching the surface in understanding their soil. Photo from Clos Mahi winery last month, giving 45 Henri growers an overview of soil nutrition and its role in the vineyard. requirements than Sauvignon Blanc.” “We are talking about sub-regions in He told the group there could OWNZ representative Fabiano Marlborough and there is so much to be more than 6 billion living things, Frangi, who helped organise the event, learn about the dynamics of how the including bacteria and fungi, in says that despite the steady strides elements work in the soil, in the plant, a teaspoon of soil, making an in wine science over recent decades, how they are made available to the understanding of its nutrition vital to a the industry’s understanding of soil plant and what happens if we use a productive operation. The three-hour nutrition has progressed little since the certain practice or another.” seminar could only scratch the surface 1970s. The Vineyard Manager at Clos of the topic, with individual regions, He says the seminar was not Henri Vineyard has studied agriculture sites, varieties and wine aspirations all limited to organic growers, “it just and viticulture and worked in the impacting on the needs of the soil. happens most of the good practices industry for 15 years, but says there’s Gerard discussed the fact that are part of an organic regime”. The still much he doesn’t know. “Every many people tend to react to a soil “elemental principle” was that time I hear that topic or try to look at analysis by adding whatever seems soil analogies only give a surface my nutrition plan I still believe I am to be missing. However, it is “scary” understanding of soil. Growers learning, and when I retire from my to make a decision based on a single have to literally dig deeper, taking job I think I will know very little of it. soil test result in isolation, without subsoil samples, while also seeking There is so much to learn every time.” looking at the bigger picture, including to understand how the soil works, A more detailed article on this subsoil, petiole/leaf potassium, as well including its biology, chemistry and seminar will run in a future edition of as the variety grown and yield targets. physics. Winepress. “For instance, low yielding Pinot Noir The field is exciting, because there generally has much lower potassium is so much to learn, says Fabiano. Winepress September 2016 / 19
Fuder For Thought New technology is enabling old winemaking practices SOPHIE PREECE BETWEEN 1000 litre oak barrels and three tonne granite tanks, Nikolai St George has his hands full at Giesen Wines. Since he joined the company last year, Nikolai has been expanding his winemaking scope using the 66 German oak barrels behind the company’s Fuder range, along with three weighty granite tanks. The Fuders provide an alternative fermentation to their smaller barrique cousins for a number of reasons, including fatter staves with better insulation properties. That means when cool autumn weather impacts on small barrel temperatures, the Fuders are unaffected, resulting in a warmer and more consistent fermentation, Giesen winemaker Nikolai St George. Photo by Jim Tannock says Nikolai. Maturation is different as well. Blanc style with oak that is not fermentation, they provide a challenge Commonly the larger format results in too domineering, while the wines because the granite is naturally porous a more reductive influence, achieving achieve the finesse and structure of and sweats, causing them to cool. the flinty aromas that are in fashion for barrel fermentation. Meanwhile, the “They are a lot of hard work and you Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay, he German sourced oak imparts a sweeter have to be very creative to get the most says. “One other thing I noticed during aromatic than the French oak on the out of them.” maturation was that because there is wine, he says. He says many old world wine less barrel surface area to wine, you get He also likes the size, with the concepts fell out of favour 50 to 60 a bit less oak pick-up.” That means the barrels large enough to do comparative years ago, because of the inability wine is quite fresh and young when trials on one batch of fruit. to clean vessels such as the Fuder it emerges from 10 months of barrel Nikolai is also using three granite and granite tanks. Now with steam aging. “They evolve slower than in tanks to age wine. The tanks, which cleaners, hot water blasters and barriques.” weigh three tonnes each with the lid ozone, winemaker are able to go back The Fuders achieve wines with on, hold around 1200l. “They’re pretty to those practices. “I think there are the mouth feel Nikolai would expect amazing pieces,” he says. His best use opportunities out there for sure.” from a smaller barrel, but have of them at this stage is for carbonic allowed Giesen to evolve a Sauvignon maceration, but when it comes to 20 / Winepress September 2016
Winepress September 2016 / 21
Cutting Edge LAST MONTH’S Wine Marlborough Vine First Novice Pruner Tasman Crop Championship Team: Silver Secateurs competition offered 1st Place: Barry Hava (Focus Labour) 1st Place: ‘Island Boys’ (Thornhill) - recognition to the people doing such 2nd Place: Longo Joseph (Thornhill) Valulua Filo Sao; Tavita Esau; Matthew a hard task in trying conditions 3rd Place: Valulua Filo Sao (Thornhill) Fidow throughout winter. 2nd Place: ‘Vanuatu 2’ (Thornhill) - Farmlands Championship Wrapper: Jeremy Hyland has been involved Brightly Tamara; Jonny Huri; Allan 1st Place: Stephanie Sawia (Vinepower) since 1995, when the competition Mahinga 2nd Place: Kome Fruen (Hortus) was established to improve quality 3rd Place: ‘Vinepower 1’ (Vinepower) - 3rd Place: Clive Wong in the vines and provide recognition Jamnong Martwiset; Gasimier Bayeo; for vineyard staff. He says it also Fruitfed Supplies Championship Kamphee Kaewsawang serves an important role in publically Pruner: Turtle BoX Championship RSE Team: showcasing the skills pruners hone 1st Place: Ian Jimmy (Focus Labour) Winners: ‘Island Boys’ (Thornhill) - every day in the vines 2nd Place: Pichet Chockchalerm Valulua Filo Sao; Tavita Esau; Matthew The name is a viticultural take (Alapa) Fidow on the Golden Shears shearing 3rd Place: Anek Misap (Vinepower) competition, and Jeremy sees a lot John Bibby Memorial Trophy: Turtle BoX Championship RSE Pruner: of similarities in the two disciplines. Winner: Barry Hava (Focus Labour) Winner: Ian Jimmy (Focus Labour) “They are a job, but they are also a skill and an art.” The hand to eye Focus Labour Solutions Championship coordination required for both is Female Pruner: intense, he says. “Pruning a vine 1st Place: Akenese Lonitenisi in a competitive environment is 2nd Place: Nee Cameron (Hortus) quite spectacular. It’s quite similar 3rd Place: JianMin Wu to watching a class shearer do their Thornhill Contracting Championship thing.” Cutter: 1st Place: Ale Seuea (Focus Labour) Silver Secateurs Results 2nd Place: Muratha Boonjeck Provine Novice Wrapper: (Vinepower) 1st Place: Bangon Soonasaeung (Alapa) 3rd Place: James Collin (Focus Labour) 2nd Place: Sean Somerville (Alapa) 3rd Place: Tavita Esau (Thornhill) Turtle BoX Championship RSE Cutter: Winner: Muratha Boonjeck (Vinepower) 22 / Winepress September 2016
The Silver Secateurs has become a multicultural celebration of the talent of people tending Marlborough’s vines. Photos by Richard Briggs. Winepress September 2016 / 23
Wine Winner Jordan Hogg is on top of the world A SELF-PROCLAIMED “wine geek” has become the 2016 Tonnellerie de Mercurey New Zealand Young Winemaker, despite tough competition. Jordan Hogg, who is Assistant Winemaker at Marlborough’s Seresin Jordan in the midst of the competition. Estate, took out the title during the Romeo Bragato Conference in Marlborough late last month. But Jordan’s consistency and highly skilled but their positions may He took the competition one ability to work under pressure saw him not always allow them to be front and step at a time, prioritising the most take the lead. “It’s the ability to think centre.” important aspects under tight logically under pressure.” Nick says a Nick believes there has been a timeframes, he says. “I guess it’s like key skill for winemakers is to be able to shift in the industry over the past five the stress we have at work and through focus on what is most important and years, with less movement among harvest, and trying to make decisions at the core of winemaking, to ensure winemakers in key positions, so under pressure.” a commitment to quality and “add a less opportunity for many young Organising committee member personal touch”. winemakers to climb up through the Nick Entwistle says the results were The competition throws in tough ranks. close throughout, with four excellent challenges, to showcase the wealth of “It’s a challenging time, but contestants. “These are some of the talent among the young winemakers, hopefully in 10 years we will be able to most talented winemakers in New he says. “Often they are cellar hands look back on the achievements of all Zealand, regardless of their age.” or assistant winemakers…they are the competitors, having forged their way to becoming the industry leaders of the future.” Seresin Estate General Manager Michelle Connor and Winemaker Clive Dougall were brimming with pride after the result. “In our experience Jordan is the perfect mix between the scientific brain and the creative brain,” says Michelle. “If he is an example of future generations of winemaking, then the industry is in good hands.” Jordan won a $5000 travel scholarship to France, a 28 litre Tonnellerie de Mercurey barrel and a Wine and Spirit Education Trust (WSET) level 2 scholarship, donated by Jane Skilton MW. The big win: Jordan with Marcel Giesen and Sherwyn Veldhuizen from Tonnellerie de Mercurey. Photo Tessa Anderson 24 / Winepress September 2016
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