Gibraltar Rock Tony Burnell Rev. A (2021) - bing - Port Hills Climbing
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Gibraltar Rock
C Tony Burnell
Rev. A (2021)
K
Gibraltar Rock
Cover Photo by Kevin Barrett
General
The Port Hills Crags are home to rare species of geckos & native flora & fauna take care not to disturb wildlife or
damage native plants. Inclusion of any climbing area or climb in this guidebook does not mean that there is any right
of public access.
The land is owned & administered by The Summit Road Society, there are no restrictions on climbing but plants must
not be removed on the crag. The crag comprises a fin of high-quality rock with two pyramidal faces at its western
which are separated by gullies.
Gibraltar Rock was known to have been climbed on in the 60’s but information is scant, undoubtedly the easier routes
would have been climbed in that period. In 1979 John Allen climbed two of the hardest climbs at the crag, ‘Salisbury
Hill’ (23) & ‘The Wasteland’ (22), both are trad classics, bold & audacious for their time. Not to be outdone local climber
Dave Fearnely came along to climb ‘Private Hell’ & ‘Wasted Nites’. Little has been climbed at the crag since John Allen
& Dave Fearnely’s visits. In 1984 John Chambers sent ‘Hydrobollocks’ then John McCallum & Jamie Vinton-Boot added
“Hangman” in 2011
Access & Restriction
Gibraltar Rock is located in Omahu Bush Reserve on the Summit Rd approximately 5.0km east of The Sign of the
Kiwi. Park in the Gibraltar Rock Car Park on the west side of the Summit Road. From the car park follow the track
downhill through the bush, go through the gate & cross the hillside & go through the new gates, follow the NZAC
directional sign & a series of waratahs with orange markers.
Restrictions: Dogs must be on a lead
Permission: None required
GPS: -43.660420, 172.614203 Distance: 600mts Walk Time: 15mins Ownership: Summit Rd Society
Climbing Notes
By choosing to climb here you accept must responsibility for your own personal safety &you must make your own
decision regarding the condition of any fixed equipment. Neither the first ascensionists nor, the author accept any
responsibility for the condition of any fixed equipment.
Replacement of fixed gear is a costly & time-consuming exercise so please do your bit, lower or top rope off your own
quick draws. Only use fixed gear for abseiling, by doing this you will extend the life of the equipment considerably.
In this guide routes at each individual buttress (Crag) are described from L to R.
The route identifier at the bottom of each climb shown on the topos is normally that of the earliest recorded route.
As far as possible all known routes have been included in this guide. If you want to know where a route goes read the
text as well as looking at the topos. Some of the original lines have chain link protection.
None of the climbs are longer than 30 mts therefore route lengths are not shown. The route name that appears on the
topos at the base of route lines is always that of the earliest recorded climb.
Climb with care, test all holds before you pull on them, check your placements & wear a helmet. It is always a good
idea to take a brush & clean the routes, it will be appreciated by the next visitor to the crag.
Replacement of fixed gear is a costly & time-consuming exercise so please do your bit, lower or top rope off your own
quick draws. Only use fixed gear for abseiling, by doing this you will extend the life of the equipment considerably
Gibraltar Rock (Revision A) This rock-climbing guide to Gibraltar Rock is copyright by Tony Burnell & may not be reproduced P a g e |1
© copyright Tony Burnell 2021 electronically, or printed, in whole or in part without written approval by the author
Tracks are marked in YELLOW Trad or mixed protection climbs are marked in GREEN Sport routes are marked in RED Variations are marked in PURPLE The following Abbreviations / Definitions have been used: #Br – Denotes the number of bolt runners Mp – Denotes Mixed Protection Route (bolts & trad). - Br location Tr – Denotes Trad Climb. Sp – Denotes Sport Route. R & L – Denote Right & Left. Climbing Notes The ‘Ewbank Grading System’ is not the best grading system when applied to mixed pro or ‘boldly’ bolted routes as it provides little in the way of information & are normally accepted as just the technical difficulty of a particular climb, it can be tricky to use these grading systems when trying to assess the actual seriousness of any climb. NZ 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 American 5.8- 5.8 5.9 5.10a 5.10b 5.10b 5.10c 5.11a 5.11b 5.11c 5.12a 5.12b Euro 4c 5a 5b 5c 6a 6a+ 6b 6b+ 6c 7a 7a+ 7b In this guide you will see a suffix to the grades (S1 – S3) this is to provide the climber with additional information on the overall seriousness of the climb. S1 - A straight forward climb with good protection & a low risk of injury from a fall. S2 - Reasonable protection, but a fall could result in injury. S3 - Protection is marginal or non-existent & a fall could result in serious injury. Climbers should remember that this additional suffix to the grade is my opinion & in no way scientific, gear can fail, rock can fail & any fall can result in injury. As far as possible all known routes have been included in this guide. If you want to know where a route actually goes then read the text as well as looking at the topos. Gully Wall There are two vegetated gullies on the L side of the main face, one has a jammed chockstone & can be used as access the top of the crag. Hy Hydrabollocks 23 S3 Tr 0Br John Chambers, 1984 Reportedly & elusively located on a small buttress on the L side of the gully at the L side of the crag. Climb a seam that leads to a rest, move R & climb a corner & up this onto the rib then good holds above then easy to the top SS Soft Soap 7 S3 Tr 0Br Unknown Just R is groove with a flax bush, climb the groove & wall Gibraltar Rock (Revision A) This rock-climbing guide to Gibraltar Rock is copyright by Tony Burnell & may not be reproduced P a g e |2 © copyright Tony Burnell 2021 electronically, or printed, in whole or in part without written approval by the author
TG The Gully 12 S3 Tr 0Br Unknown The second gully L of the main face is climbed on good holds. Good protection P Penitence 12 S3 Tr 0Br Unknown The second gully L of the main face is climbed on good holds. Good protection Main Face – Left Pyramid This is the L side of the main face which forms the L pyramid DH Dynamo Hum 15 S2 Tr 0Br Unknown Climb the steep wall R of “P”, near the top move R into “WD”. WD Wasted Daze 16 S3 Tr 0Br Unknown Takes the L arête of the slabby wall. Easier if the central line is followed until three-quarters height, before moving L to the arête. Tricky to protect. WN Wasted Nights 20 S3 Tr 0Br Dave Fearnley, 1979 Climb the centre of the wall, gear at the curving crack, head R slightly at the top. There are variation linking “WN” & “WD” these are shown in purple. CG Coup de Grace 14 S2 Tr 0Br Unknown The large open groove at the L side of pyramid 1. I Iconoclast 15 S2 Tr 0Br Unknown Great climbing up the L wall, using cracks on the L climb the face L of the arête continuing up through the small headwall. KG Knob Gnarly Arete 17 S3 Tr 0Br Neville Taylor,1991 A direct/variation start up the arete to gain the crack system on ‘I’. Main Face - Right Pyramid The impressive R side of the main face. TW The Wasteland 22 S3 Mp 1Br John Allen (both versions), 1979 The L side of the main wall. A bolt protects the initial difficult move then go up to gear before heading R into the horizontal break, from here, go either L along the break to finish up the arete, or, from the break finish direct over the roof at Grade 23 PH Private Hell 22 S3 Mp 1Br Dave Fearnley, 1983 Climb the wall R of The Wasteland past a bolt, then continue with easier face climbing trending R & finishing up Salisbury Hill. Gibraltar Rock (Revision A) This rock-climbing guide to Gibraltar Rock is copyright by Tony Burnell & may not be reproduced P a g e |3 © copyright Tony Burnell 2021 electronically, or printed, in whole or in part without written approval by the author
SH Salisbury Hill 24 S3 Tr 0Br John Allen, 1979 Climbs R arête of the main face probably the test piece of the crag. From the end of the ledge climb the corner, move R (tricky), then the crack to the break, over the bulge fist L then back R. HM Hangman 22 S3 Tr 0Br John McCallum, 2011 Start as for ‘SH’ but traverse R under roof & around the arete onto the south face. Follow the wall just R of the arete until you rejoin ‘SH’ at the traverse line going L, follow out L & finish as for ‘SH’ The South Face Gibraltar Rock (Revision A) This rock-climbing guide to Gibraltar Rock is copyright by Tony Burnell & may not be reproduced P a g e |4 © copyright Tony Burnell 2021 electronically, or printed, in whole or in part without written approval by the author
The south face is a large wall but somewhat lichenous & vegetated. SS Salisbury Sewer 17 S3 Tr 0Br Brent Davis, 1982 Around the corner on the south face, often damp due to the amount of vegetation. The climb takes the vegetated off- width crack. Gibraltar Rock (Revision A) This rock-climbing guide to Gibraltar Rock is copyright by Tony Burnell & may not be reproduced P a g e |5 © copyright Tony Burnell 2021 electronically, or printed, in whole or in part without written approval by the author
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