FINE WINE & PREMIUM SPIRITS NOVEMBER & DECEMBER 2020 - LCBO
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The long and winding Mosel River, Germany. ON THE COVER: San Caterina in the Dolomites, Italy. 2 VINTAGES
TABLE OF CONTENTS Classics Collection The Vintages Classics Collection puts the world’s finest wines and spirits into your cellar. From Burgundy grands crus to sky-high single-vineyard Argentine expressions and everything in between, the Classics Collection offers an exciting assortment of the best, most iconic, most collectible wines from top regions, stellar vintages, legendary producers and more. Whether you’re a neophyte or a seasoned collector, these curated selections are sure to satisfy. November 2020 December 2020 6 FRANCE 20 FRANCE 10 GERMANY 22 GERMANY 10 HUNGARY 22 ITALY 10 ITALY 24 PORTUGAL 13 SPAIN 24 SPAIN 14 CANADA 24 AUSTRALIA 14 AUSTRALIA 25 NEW ZEALAND 15 NEW ZEALAND 26 SOUTH AFRICA 15 SOUTH AFRICA 26 ARGENTINA 16 ARGENTINA 26 CHILE 16 CHILE 27 USA 16 USA 28 FORTIFIED WINE 28 DESSERT WINE 32 PRODUCT SUMMARY 42 ORDERING INFORMATION 38 PRODUCT SUMMARY 42 ORDERING INFORMATION ORDER ONLINE AT PLEASE NOTE: LCBO.COM/VINTAGES-CLASSICS For each Classics Collection, we do our best to secure enough stock to satisfy all customer November Collection: starts November 5 at 8:30 a.m. orders. We regret that sometimes customer December Collection: starts December 3 at 8:30 a.m. demand exceeds supply. Opening inventory for See page 42 for ordering details. each Classics Collection will be available at lcbo. com/vintages-classics one week before online First-come, first-served. Shop early for best selection. ordering begins. Prices in this catalogue are subject to change without notice. Vintages cannot assume responsibility for typographical errors. All prices include applicable container deposit and HST. 4 VINTAGES OPPOSITE: Sheer limestone cliffs and an ancient hilltop castle in Arco di Trento, Italy.
THE CLASSICS COLLECTION • NOVEMBER 2020 FRANCE notes of plum sauce, pastis and blueberry coulis to stride through. its balanced tannins. The whole wine is finely integrated, black berry flavors shot A striking array of cellar-worthy Shows serious grip at the very end. through with acidity and touches of wines from Bordeaux and Best from 2016 through 2035. wood. Certainly a wine for aging. Burgundy, and a selection of Score: 94 (James Molesworth, Cellar Selection. Champagne that includes the winespectator.com, March 31, 2013) Score: 94 (Roger Voss, Wine Enthusiast, stunning Dom Pérignon 2008. April 1, 2011) 454207 (XD) 750 mL $156.00 15954 (XD) 750 mL $146.00 BORDEAUX CHÂTEAU LANGOA BARTON 2016 3e cru, AC Saint-Julien RED WINE TASTING NOTE: Beautiful aromas of BURGUNDY flowers and berries, intermingled in fresh CHÂTEAU BRANE-CANTENAC 2014 and brambly mode with a cedary edge. CÔTE DE NUITS AC Margaux This is very fresh. The tannins carve an RED WINE TASTING NOTE: This is a complete wine, exceptionally deep, long line through the full of both tannins and great swathes of dark berries and cassis and deliver a MARCHAND-TAWSE BONNES ripe fruit. It has a serious side as well in very powerful, unwavering finish. This is MARES GRAND CRU 2013 its solid structure and concentration. The in great form. Very powerful and focused. AC juicy blackberry fruits are beginning to Try from 2024. TASTING NOTE: Strong reduction masks calm down and meld into a fine dense Score: 96 (James Suckling, the underlying fruit. There is outstanding wine that will age very well. Drink from jamessuckling.com, Feb. 3, 2019) intensity to the big, robust and overtly 2025. Cellar Selection. 16244 (XD) 750 mL $132.00 powerful flavors that possess superb Score: 95 (Roger Voss, Wine Enthusiast, length on the equally austere, backward Feb. 1, 2017) and beautifully long finale. This is an CLOS BEAUREGARD 2015 16243 (XD) 750 mL $157.00 AC Pomerol old school Bonnes Mares that will also require an extended snooze in a cool TASTING NOTE: Aromas of dark fruits, cellar. Drink: 2028+. CHÂTEAU LANGOA BARTON 2006 tile, cedar, dried basil leaves, and smoked Score: 92-94 (Allen Meadows, 3e cru, AC Saint-Julien almonds. Full-bodied, tight and focused burghound.com, Jan. 15, 2015) TASTING NOTE: Tasted at Bordeaux with polished tannins and a beautiful long finish. Love the texture and balance. 411413 (XD) 750 mL $345.00 Index’s annual 10-Year On tasting in London. The 2006 Château Langoa Try it in 2021 or later. Score: 94 (James Suckling, Barton has a lifted nose of small dark jamessuckling.com, Feb. 2, 2018) CÔTE DE BEAUNE cherries, blackberry, incense and marmalade – quite showy for Langoa 16242 (XD) 750 mL $69.00 RED WINE Barton – but there is joie-de-vivre here. The palate is medium-bodied with supple DOMAINE DE BELLENE HOMMAGE tannin, ripe and demonstrating impressive CLOS RENE 2015 À BARTOLO MASCARELLO AC Pomerol density plus a firm grip. This really coats SAVIGNY-LÈS-BEAUNE 1ER CRU 2017 the mouth in tannin, although it is still TASTING NOTE: Wow. Gorgeous aromas AC balanced. It just needs another 4-5 years of perfume, spices and dark fruits such TASTING NOTE: From two crus: Les Haut in bottle ... Drink date: 2019-2035. as bramble berries. Full body, ultra-fine Jarrons, planted in 1974, and Les Score: 91 (Neal Martin, robertparker.com, tannins and a long, flavorful finish. Shows Peuillets planted in 1993, both at high May 29, 2016) strength with finesse. Give it three or density, 10,000 vines per hectare, this four years to come completely together homage to the great Bartolo Mascarello 903344 (XD) 750 mL $165.00 but beautiful already. of Barolo fame is a stunning wine off the Score: 94 (James Suckling, top. Fruit is certainly ripe, still very much CHÂTEAU LANGOA BARTON 2010 jamessuckling.com, Feb. 2, 2018) in the red berry spectrum, but sweet and 3e cru, AC Saint-Julien 15971 (XD) 750 mL $68.00 plump, with a pretty, dried rose/violet TASTING NOTE: Tightly focused, with note and a gently leafy-forest floor tone. a beam of cassis and blackberry fruit Tannins are abundant – this has excellent framed by integrated espresso and DOMAINE DE CHEVALIER 2008 structure – if also fine and tight-grained. AC Pessac-Léognan Grand Cru Classé charcoal notes. The ample structure Acids are perfectly comfortable and drives the polished finish, allowing extra TASTING NOTE: Dense, powerful wine the finish is long. In 3-5 years, this will be that impresses both with its rich fruit and a terrific bottle of wine, and it has the 6 VINTAGES
THE CLASSICS COLLECTION • NOVEMBER 2020 stuffing to go deep into the ’30s sans JEAN-CLAUDE BOISSET problems. Brilliant at the price. POMMARD 2016 Score: 95 (John Szabo, MS, winealign. AC com, Oct. 26, 2019) TASTING NOTE: A blend of two climats 14780 (XD) 750 mL $78.00 (Brescul and La Combotte). This draws on two very different parts of the appellation. A very upbeat style with DOMAINE JESSIAUME VOLNAY 2017 ripe, red cherries and berries, as well AC as chocolate and light spices. The palate TASTING NOTE: Youthful and unformed, is very refined. Shows very long and this wine smells as earthy as braised detailed flavors of cherry compote. A tripe; then the fruit slowly comes into long, succulent finish. Superb freshness focus, with notes of raspberry and and dense, fine tannins. Try from 2021. strawberry over the herbal savor of Score: 94 (James Suckling, DOMAINE LATOUR-GIRAUD the tannins. This needs a year or more jamessuckling.com, Feb. 15, 2018) MEURSAULT-GENEVRIÈRES in the cellar to evolve. 1ER CRU 2018 15968 (XD) 750 mL $87.00 AC Score: 90 (wineandspirits.com, Oct. 2019) TASTING NOTE: Smoky, cool and elegant VINCENT GIRARDIN CLOS aromas are composed primarily of 15969 (XD) 750 mL $67.00 SAINT-JEAN CHASSAGNE- various white orchard fruit, acacia MONTRACHET 1ER CRU 2016 blossom, citrus rind, wood and a hint of DUBREUIL-FONTAINE AC exotic tea. The racy, intense and CORTON-BRESSANDES TASTING NOTE: Bursting from the glass admirably concentrated flavors possess GRAND CRU 2017 with expressive aromas of berry fruit very good volume as well as an AC compote and dried flowers, the 2016 appealing minerality that adds a sense of TASTING NOTE: There is an overt Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos lift to the sneaky long, balanced and firm spiciness to the even more restrained Saint-Jean is medium to full-bodied, finale. This too is lovely and a wine that nose that blends notes of both red supple and succulent, with an ample core will need at least a few years of cellaring and dark cherry, plum, violet, lavender of fruit, melting tannins and tangy acids, as it’s presently fairly tightly wound. and a whiff of warm earth. The silky, concluding with a precise and delicately Drink: 2026+. Outstanding. intense and chiseled middle weight fragrant finish. This captures all the site’s Score: 92 (Allen Meadows, burghound. flavors flash a subtle minerality before inherent fleshiness but none of the com, June 10, 2020) terminating in a youthfully austere potential structural rusticity that so often 111344 (XD) 750 mL $144.00 and wonderfully persistent finish that, accompanies it. Its gourmand, lavish like the Perrières, is well-balanced. profile makes it already irresistible. Drink Drink: 2029+. Sweet spot. date: 2020-2036. LOUIS JADOT BÂTARD-MONTRACHET Score: 93 (Allen Meadows, burghound. Score: 92 (William Kelley, robertparker. GRAND CRU 2017 com, April 10, 2019) com, April 30, 2019) AC 297200 (XD) 750 mL $128.00 15937 (XD) 750 mL $100.00 TASTING NOTE: There are eight barrels of the excellent 2017 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru (Maison Louis Jadot), an HENRI DE VILLAMONT WHITE WINE impressive wine that unfurls in the glass LES RENARDES CORTON with aromas of crisp yellow orchard fruit, GRAND CRU 2017 pear, pastry cream and honeycomb. On AC DOMAINE AU PIED DU MONT the palate, the wine is full-bodied, deep TASTING NOTE: The great exposure of CHAUVE LES VERGERS and satiny, with more concentration and CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET the vineyard gives this complex wine cut than this year’s Bienvenues, with an 1ER CRU 2015 depth and richness. Bringing out black AC elegant sense of completeness and a fruits, the wine also has freshness and long, lively finish. This will be well worth layers of firm tannins. Aging should be TASTING NOTE: Richly structured with seeking out. slow and steady and the wine is unlikely strong minerality, tight fruits and a steely Score: 93-95 (William Kelley, to be ready to drink before 2024. Cellar edge, this wine has plenty of texture. Its robertparker.com, Jan. 31, 2019) Selection. concentrated acidity and white fruits are crisp, edgy and will benefit from time. 445007 (XD) 750 mL $617.00 Score: 94 (Roger Voss, Wine Enthusiast, Dec. 1, 2019) Drink from 2023. Score: 94 (Roger Voss, Wine Enthusiast, 561225 (XD) 750 mL $150.00 Oct. 1, 2018) 15972 (XD) 750 mL $133.00 7 VINTAGES
THE CLASSICS COLLECTION • NOVEMBER 2020 CHABLIS LOUIS MICHEL & FILS BUTTEAUX VIEILLES VIGNES CHABLIS RHÔNE WHITE WINE 1ER CRU 2017 AC SOUTHERN RHÔNE DOMAINE COURTAULT BEAUROY TASTING NOTE: A formidable rendition of RED WINE CHABLIS 1ER CRU 2017 this reliably superb cuvée, Michel’s 2017 AC Chablis 1er Cru Butteaux Vieilles Vignes DOMAINE DU PEGAU CUVÉE TASTING NOTE: A solidly crafted premier wafts from the glass with a complex but LAURENCE CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE cru that delivers a classic expression reserved bouquet of fresh peach, crisp 2014 of Chablis. There’s considerable depth yellow apple, iodine, mandarin oil and AC to the flavours, with lemon citrus and paraffin wax. On the palate, it’s medium TASTING NOTE: This wine shows apricot standing out, followed by a to full-bodied, deep, dense and complexities of cocoa, leather, rose petal sharply defined, mineral-led finish. The concentrated, with a racy spine of acidity and earth that juxtapose mouthwatering mouthfeel has a pleasing roundness. cloaked in vibrant fruit, concluding with blackberry and plum flavors. Its fruit is at Very fresh and crisp. This will be ideal for a long, searingly saline finish. This is the forefront but anchored by a mineral seafood. (Vintages panel, Jan. 2020) well worth seeking out. Drink date: undertow that should intensify with age. 2023-2040. It’s a beauty already, framed by fine, 15952 (XD) 750 mL $41.00 Score: 94 (William Kelley, robertparker. chalky tannins. Editors’ Choice. com, Aug. 30, 2019) Score: 98 (Anna Lee Iijima, Wine JEAN-MARC BROCARD BOUGROS 16239 (XD) 750 mL $61.00 Enthusiast, Dec. 31, 2019) CHABLIS GRAND CRU 2018 AC 168161 (XD) 750 mL $135.00 TASTING NOTE: A background ROPITEAU VALMUR CHABLIS GRAND CRU 2018 application of wood surrounds notably AC GABRIEL MEFFRE phenolic elements (think olive oil SAINTE-CATHERINE GIGONDAS 2016 nuances) together with aromas of both The 2018 vintage in Chablis was warm AC white and yellow orchard fruit that are and dry and has wrought wines that TASTING NOTE: Juicy cherry paste and nuanced by iodine and sea breeze offer a full, intense character and a plum preserve flavors stretch out, with wisps. I very much like the intensity of supercharged, exciting, sun-driven ripe roasted apple wood, tar and licorice snap the solidly constituted medium weight fruit quality. A refined chalky minerality notes filling in throughout. Shows a slight plus flavors that deliver excellent length is also a hallmark of this year. This is a gutsy edge, but feels fresh and pure on the rustic, bold and muscular finish. vintage that permits early consumption overall. Best from 2020 through 2028. This is still a bit raw but the underlying but will also reward cellaring. Score: 93 (James Molesworth, material is impressive. Drink: 2026+. 16232 (XD) 750 mL $103.00 winespectator.com, May 31, 2019) Score: 90-93 (Allen Meadows, burghound.com, Oct. 10, 2019) 370270 (XD) 750 mL $40.00 259846 (XD) 750 mL $104.00 ALSACE JEAN-MARC BROCARD LES PREUSES CHABLIS WHITE WINE GRAND CRU 2018 AC JEAN BIECHER & FILS You can expect this Chablis to be a SCHOENENBOURG RIESLING 2018 characterful, complex expression of AC Alsace Grand Cru the ripe, full 2018 vintage. Look for TASTING NOTE: A hint of wet chalk and superbly defined apple and citrus tones, smoky reduction hover above ripe, with a saline-inflected minerality. This peachy fruit on the nose of this wine. will continue to evolve through the mid With more air, hints of mandarin and to late ’20s. candied peach shine through. The palate 411322 (XD) 750 mL $123.00 frames this ripe fruit with Amalfi lemon freshness that gives poise and concen- tration to the opulence. The finish is dry, vivid and fresh. Score: 94 (Anne Krebiehl, MW, Wine Enthusiast, May 1, 2020) 469767 (D) 750 mL $30.00 8 VINTAGES
THE CLASSICS COLLECTION • NOVEMBER 2020 CHAMPAGNE 8g/L of sugar and the legacy of both oak fermentation and long yeast maturation, RUINART BRUT BLANC DE BLANCS CHAMPAGNE the latter under cork. The vinous power is AC such that this will match rich, savoury TASTING NOTE: A graceful Champagne, BOLLINGER BRUT ROSÉ CHAMPAGNE dishes such as quail, venison, pigeon and sleek and finely knit, with a subtle range AC guinea fowl. A triumph! Drinking window of nectarine, lemon curd, almond blossom 2020-2035. and ground ginger flavors, expanding TASTING NOTE: This offers ripe plum Score: 96 (Simon Field, MW, decanter. on the silky mousse. Offers a lingering, and nectarine fruit, with mouthwatering com, Feb.16, 2020) mineral-laced finish. Drink now through acidity in abundance, as well as accents 993378 (XD) 750 mL $250.00 2024. of anise, tea rose and orange peel. Bright Score: 93 (Alison Napjus, winespectator. and finely knit, featuring a satiny mousse com, Nov. 30, 2019) and good focus through to the chalk- BOLLINGER SPECIAL CUVÉE laced finish. Drink now through 2024. BRUT CHAMPAGNE 62984 (XD) 750 mL $130.00 Score: 93 (Alison Napjus, winespectator. AC com, Nov. 30, 2019) TASTING NOTE: There’s a pleasing, RUINART BRUT ROSÉ CHAMPAGNE 100503 (XD) 750 mL $122.00 snappy quality to the acidity framing AC this elegant Champagne, enlivening TASTING NOTE: Raspberry and nectarine accessible flavors of currant, Marcona fruit flavors are ripe and appealing in BOLLINGER LA GRANDE ANNÉE BRUT CHAMPAGNE 2012 almond and orchard blossom, with a this elegant rosé Champagne, with a fine, AC minerally touch of saline-laced oyster satiny mousse, neatly layered with shell that lingers on the finish. Drink accents of ground ginger, blanched TASTING NOTE: Disgorged in July 2019, now through 2022. Bollinger’s 2012 Brut La Grande Année almond and blood orange pith. Lightly Score: 92 (Alison Napjus, winespectator. mouthwatering, offering a lingering finish. is showing well, offering up an incipiently com, Nov. 30, 2019) 6 Drink now through 2021. complex bouquet of crisp yellow orchard fruit, fresh peach, orange oil, toasted 490482 (XD) 1500 mL $203.00 Score: 92 (Alison Napjus, winespectator. walnuts and dried apricot that’s still quite com, Nov. 30, 2019) reserved with less than a year on cork. DOM PÉRIGNON 239806 (XD) 375 mL $76.00 Full-bodied, deep and muscular, the BRUT CHAMPAGNE 2008 2012 is blockier and broader-shouldered AC than its 2008 predecessor, with a weightier and even more concentrated TASTING NOTE: The 2008 Dom Pérignon PROVENCE is once again stunning. More than palate built around a bright spine of RED WINE anything else, I am surprised by how well acidity, concluding with a chalky finish the 2008 drinks given all the tension that carries appreciably dry extract. This and energy it holds. Then again, that is DOMAINE LA SUFFRENE isn’t quite as elegant as the exquisite TRADITION BANDOL 2015 precisely what makes 2008 such a 2008, but it is a superb effort and AC unique vintage – namely that the best obviously built to age. Drink date: wines are so chiseled and yet not at all TASTING NOTE: The outstanding 2015 2024-2050. austere. Lemon peel, almond, mint, smoke Bandol is a blend of 55% Mourvèdre, Score: 95 (William Kelley, robertparker. and crushed rocks are all finely sculpted, 20% Grenache, 15% Cinsault and 10% com, March 12, 2020) but it is the wine’s textural feel, drive and Carignan, fermented in concrete with no 145169 (XD) 750 mL $195.00 persistence that elevate it into the realm added yeasts and then aged 18 months of the sublime. The 2008 will be even in foudres. It starts off smoky and red better with time in the cellar, but it is fruited, then folds in black cherries as it BOLLINGER LA GRANDE ANNÉE BRUT ROSÉ CHAMPAGNE 2012 absolutely phenomenal even today, in the sits in the glass. Full-bodied and rich, it’s AC early going. Three recent bottles have all supple and creamy in texture, with a long, been nothing short of magnificent. plush finish. TASTING NOTE: 5% of red wine has Drinking window: 2020-2048. Score: 93 (Joe Czerwinski, robertparker. been added by assemblage from the Score: 98 (Antonio Galloni, vinous.com, com, May 16, 2019) legendary La Cote Aux Enfants vineyard July 2019) in Aÿ. The resulting power is subtle, 15970 (XD) 750 mL $37.00 gastronomic and bewitching: as a 461145 (XD) 1500 mL $709.00 corollary to a lighter, onion-skin colour, there’s an intensity and length on the palate allied to perfect integration of the 9 VINTAGES
THE CLASSICS COLLECTION • NOVEMBER 2020 GERMANY HUNGARY RIZZI NERVO BARBARESCO 2016 DOCG A lush, elegant Riesling. A beautifully accomplished A precise articulation of the 20-year-old Tokaji. TASTING NOTE: Aromas of wild berry, unique soils of the Mosel. rose and baking spice align with a whiff WHITE WINE of menthol. Elegantly focused, the vibrant, youthfully austere palate delivers MOSEL TOKAJ-HÉTSZOLO 5 PUTTONYOS crushed raspberry, Morello cherry and licorice framed in taut, close-grained WHITE WINE TOKAJI ASZÚ 2000 tannins and fresh acidity before a rather Tokaj drying, tight finish. Give it a few more TASTING NOTE: A gorgeous dessert years to fully unwind. Drink 2024-2036. J.J. PRÜM WEHLENER SONNENUHR white, now showing some maturity, Score: 95 (Kerin O’Keefe, Wine RIESLING SPÄTLESE 2017 Enthusiast, Oct. 1, 2019) with butter, spice, salted caramel and Prädikatswein mulled citrus flavors. It all hangs together 539247 (XD) 750 mL $63.00 TASTING NOTE: The 2017 Wehlener beautifully on the supple texture, Sonnenuhr Spätlese is impressively deep, its acidity well-integrated, with a long, dense and expressive on the nose that satisfying aftertaste. Drink now RIZZI PAJORE BARBARESCO 2016 is more mineral rather than fruity. On the through 2025. DOCG palate, this is a lush, tensioned, very Score: 94 (Bruce Sanderson, TASTING NOTE: Red berry, rose, menthol, precise, elegant, sharply defined and winespectator.com, June 30, 2010) new leather, cracked pepper and wild complex Riesling. It’s not as exuberant as herb aromas come together on this. 282376 (S) 500 mL $94.00 the Sonnenuhr can be, but it represents Linear, elegant and youthfully austere, more of the gray/blue slate soil. The the palate delivers red cherry, finish is really lush, perfectly concen- pomegranate, licorice and star anise trated and salty. This is a great Prüm icon Spätlese. Drink date: 2020-2050. ITALY framed in tight, close-grained tannins and racy acidity before an orange zest Score: 95 (Stephan Reinhardt, A selection to set a collector’s heart finish. Drink 2026-2036. robertparker.com, June 28, 2019) aflutter, including the 100-point Score: 96 (Kerin O’Keefe, Wine 990184 (S) 750 mL $78.00 Luce Brunello di Montalcino 2015 and Enthusiast, Sept. 1, 2019) multiple sizes of the 2017 Sassicaia and Tignanello. 16743 (XD) 750 mL $63.00 PIEDMONT TUSCANY RED WINE RED WINE GAJA DAGROMIS BAROLO 2016 CASANOVA DI NERI BRUNELLO DOCG DI MONTALCINO 2015 DOCG This Barolo is from one of the most TASTING NOTE: The Neri family has prominent names in Italian fine wine, and created a classic expression of it doubles down on the excitement by Sangiovese from a classic vintage, while also coming from the highly touted 2016 remaining faithful to the house style. In a vintage. Though it could be served now, it nutshell, these wines always tend to offer will benefit from at least another five dark plum, clove and fig confit over the years in the cellar and will then continue tiny berry and blue flower aromas you to evolve to 2030, if not longer. get from the traditionalists. That said, this 92742 (XD) 750 mL $143.00 Brunello needs ample time to open, and 16962 (XD) 1500 mL $347.00 I suggest you splash it into the decanter. The Casanova di Neri 2015 Brunello di Montalcino (this is the one with the white label) stays safely within your expectation of the vintage with its variety-driven aromas of wild berry, licorice, blue flower and balsam herb. This wine sees fruit 10 VINTAGES
THE CLASSICS COLLECTION • NOVEMBER 2020 sourced from a vineyard on the northeast Agglomerate. Drink date: 2022-2045. and lots of chocolate, berry, walnut and side of Montalcino, with Galestro soils Score: 97 (Monica Larner, robertparker. currant flavors. Excellent finish. Triumph ranging from 330 to 480 meters above com, June 4, 2020) for the vintage. Drink after 2022. sea level. Some 95,376 bottles were Score: 97 (James Suckling, 11470 (XD) 1500 mL $380.00 made. It was bottled in June 2019, and jamessuckling.com, June 22, 2020) it hit the market in January 2020. You 10618 (XD) 750 mL $175.00 might want more from the aromatics GUADO AL TASSO MATAROCCHIO 10619 (XD) 1500 mL $385.00 (while you wait for the bouquet to come 2016 16145 (XD) 3000 mL $850.00 around), but this wine goes gangbusters DOC Bolgheri Superiore (Antinori) 16192 (XD) 6000 mL $1847.00 in terms of mid-palate and overall texture. Drink date: 2021-2035. TASTING NOTE: The 2016 Matarocchio Score: 94 (Monica Larner, robertparker. is a wine of muscle and brawn that opens PIAN DELLE VIGNE ROSSO com, Jan. 31, 2020) to dark thickness and deep layers of DI MONTALCINO 2018 black fruit, spice, leather and tar. If you DOC 85498 (XD) 750 mL $89.00 (Antinori) 472340 (XD) 1500 mL $206.00 like big and bold, this Tuscan Cabernet Franc will prove quite agile when pairing TASTING NOTE: The aromatics are dark with coal-fired barbecued T-bone steak. at first, showing crushed black cherry GUADO AL TASSO 2017 This wine was produced in 2017, but and plum, yet opening to reveal sweet DOC Bolgheri Superiore it was not made in 2018 because the herbs and tobacco, with moist soil and (Antinori) variety had a hard time reaching optimal hints of worn leather. On the palate, silky TASTING NOTE: From a warm and ripeness. This full-bodied wine is textures flood the senses with a mix of sunny vintage that produced darkly absolutely linear and direct in terms of black and red berry fruits, enlivened by concentrated fruit, the Tenuta Guado al aromas; however, it shows fleshy brisk acids, as sweet spices and minerals Tasso 2017 Bolgheri Superiore Guado succulence in terms of mouthfeel. It settle in. The finish is long, with a dark, al Tasso is a teaser and a super pleaser. closes with midnight black notes of alluring sweetness, as notes of spiced- This is one flashy wine. This carefully dried berry and exotic spice. Drink date: black cherry and sweet floral tones calculated blend of 65% Cabernet 2021-2045. slowly fade. There is a balance and sheer Sauvignon, 20% Cabernet Franc and Score: 97 (Monica Larner, robertparker. enjoyability factor to the 2018 Pian 15% Merlot pours from the bottle with com, May 16, 2019) delle Vigne Rosso that’s impossible to a beautifully saturated and rich color. ignore. Drinking window: 2020-2026. 340174 (XD) 750 mL $640.00 I double-decanted my sample before Score: 91 (Eric Guido, vinous.com, writing this review, and the wine’s aromas April 2020) showed immediate harmony and LUCE BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 467787 (XD) 750 mL $32.00 intensity. The wine seduces and flirts with 2015 all your senses. This vintage caps many DOCG years of study regarding blending: The (Luce della Vite) SASSICAIA 2017 Merlot is slightly decreased here, and the TASTING NOTE: Amazing aromas of DOC Bolgheri Sassicaia Cabernet Franc is slowly taking on a crushed berries, cherries, flowers, black (Tenuta San Guido) more important supporting role. The Petit truffles and wet earth, turning to violets TASTING NOTE: Aromas of exotic spice, Verdot that was used as a peppery and black tea. Extremely aromatic. baked plum and French oak mingle with accent two years ago has now been Full-bodied, deep and profound with camphor and blue flower on the nose. removed altogether. The results are pliant, fantastically strong tannins that just This boasts extraordinary elegance and seamless and fluid, and that’s the big melt into the wine. Fantastic length freshness despite the hot vintage, takeaway here. The wine is bountiful, and intensity. Truly great. Drinkable, delivering flavors of juicy Marasca cherry, round, supple and full-bodied. Unless but better in 2024 and onwards. spiced blueberry, tobacco and licorice. you are decidedly not a fan of this Score: 100 (James Suckling, Velvety, fine-grained tannins provide style, there’s nothing not to love. I had jamessuckling.com, March 2, 2020) support while coffee and crushed mint anticipated more tightness in terms of 244665 (XD) 1500 mL $340.00 linger on the finish. Drink 2022-2032. possible hot-vintage tannins, but I am 526715 (XD) 3000 mL $730.00 Cellar Selection. very pleased by the general integration Score: 97 (Kerin O’Keefe, Wine of the mouthfeel. The Guado al Tasso Enthusiast, July 1, 2020) vineyards are located not too far from LUCE LUX VITIS 2017 480541 (D) 1500 mL $600.00 the sea, at a low elevation of about IGT Toscana (Luce della Vite) 480558 (D) 3000 mL $1115.00 60 meters above sea level. The soils are 184275 (D) 6000 mL $5924.00 alluvial with a unique mix of limestone TASTING NOTE: Wow. This is really well clay and sand, with pockets of rocks and crafted with rich fruit and polished are generally known as the Bolgheri tannins. It’s full and layered with ripe fruit 11 VINTAGES
THE CLASSICS COLLECTION • NOVEMBER 2020 VENETO RED WINE BRIGALDARA AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO 2015 DOCG TASTING NOTE: The grapes are left to dry for 120 days, with the wine then spending one year in barrique and two years in large-volume 25hl Slavonian oak barrels. It’s a blend of 45% Corvinone, 45% Corvina and 10% Rondinella. Michael Garner: Ethereal red fruit aromas joined by shades of tobacco and spice, followed by an intense palate of bright TIGNANELLO 2017 IGT Toscana UMBRIA fresh fruit underscored by notes of seasoned oak and charred spice. Heady (Antinori) WHITE WINE and distinctive. Andrew Jefford: Refined TASTING NOTE: The Marchesi Antinori and elegant aromas: subtle and enticing, 2017 Tignanello (made with Sangiovese with great harmony. It’s light and graceful CASTELLO DELLA SALA CERVARO and smaller parts Cabernet Sauvignon DELLA SALA 2018 on the palate, in a very classical style and Cabernet Franc) is a dark, exuberant IGT Umbria akin to ultra-traditional Barolo, aged to and inviting wine. I tasted my sample (Antinori) a state of great harmony and finesse. after a double decanting and was Monty Waldin: Seems nicely unforced pleased by the profound nature of the TASTING NOTE: Compared to the 2017 and easy to enjoy, with a wonderfully wine and the immediate openness of the vintage that shows a more accessible transparent fruit and oak profile. We aromas. There is a symphony of dark fruit and full-bodied style, the 2018 Cervaro have here a gratifying antidote to the with black cherry, plum, spice and sweet della Sala is a classic edition – it’s caricature that contemporary Amarone tobacco. I am particularly attracted by a about as classic as I have ever tasted can be – namely big blockbusters, too distant hint of medicinal or menthol herb this landmark white from Umbria to be. bold and boisterous. Drinking window: that I also discovered in other wines with This cooler vintage prizes finesse and 2019-2026. fruit from the Tignanello estate in 2017. elegance, and those traits are matched Score: 95 (decanter.com, May 2019) There’s a drying mineral note of crushed by efforts in the winery to accomplish that same goal. On many levels, the 16752 (D) 1500 mL $149.00 chalk as well. The heat and dryness of the vintage has added to the aromatic 2018 vintage opens a new chapter for intensity of the wine (yields were reduced Cervaro della Sala, with a stronger REMO FARINA MONTEFANTE by a third), but the mouthfeel is carefully emphasis on preserved lemon, crisp RISERVA AMARONE DELLA crafted to maintain its softness and pear and crushed mineral. The wine VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO 2013 smoothness. Fruit comes from a 57-hectare offers beautiful freshness and linearity. DOCG section of the Tenuta Tignanello from a I must also mention that this vintage is released while the fruit is still a bit closed This is always a powerhouse Amarone, vineyard that is located 390 meters but one that keeps a firm grip on balance above sea level with Alberese limestone or shy. That slightly reductive approach bodes very well for the wine’s future and is never overwhelming. Look for a rock and soils of marine origin. The wine mix of ripe and dried black fruit notes, is fermented in conical oak tanks and is evolution. Drink date: 2020-2035. Score: 96 (Monica Larner, robertparker. with underlying tones of forest, leather, aged up to 16 months in a combination vanilla, herbs and spice. This is a wine of mostly French and some Hungarian com, Oct. 17, 2019) built to age; consider following its oak, both new and neutral. Drink date: 693556 (XD) 1500 mL $188.00 evolution for another 5-10 years. Serve 2021-2040. 693531 (XD) 3000 mL $386.00 with hearty beef stews, braised beef or Score: 96 (Monica Larner, robertparker. fine cheeses. com, June 4, 2020) 63636 (D) 750 mL $83.00 534511 (XD) 375 mL $83.00 403527 (XD) 1500 mL $328.00 403535 (XD) 3000 mL $693.00 12 VINTAGES
THE CLASSICS COLLECTION • NOVEMBER 2020 SPAIN TELMO RODRÍGUEZ LANZAGA 2011 DOCa Rioja 5% Parellada that aged sur lie for 51 months in bottle and was adjusted with The ageability of Rioja is on full TASTING NOTE: The 2011 Lanzaga is six grams of sugar to make it a balanced display here, with wines from a blend of Tempranillo, Garnacha and and approachable sparkling. This is one 1970 to 2017. As well, look to the Graciano from different zones of the of the flagship wines from Gramona, with Corpinnat from Gramona. They’re village of Lanciego fermented in cement a style that is marked by the old wine one of only nine producers to use vats with indigenous yeasts and matured added in the expedition liqueur, which this new designation. in a combination of 1,500- and 2,500- gives a specific profile that’s nutty and liter foudres and 225-liter barriques. It is has aromas that always make me think RED WINE a pure and elegant wine which does of an older wine. They have been not transmit any notes that would give a moderating the use of this wine, and the hint of the heat of the vintage, very touch is subtler, as what they have been FAUSTINO I GRAN RESERVA 1970 using is an infusion of almond peel in DOCa Rioja elegant. The palate is silky and balanced, with very fine tannins and enough acidity. this old wine. They never used this TASTING NOTE: Beautifully balanced, They used more grapes from the expedition wine for III Lustros or Celler this shows all the positive attributes of higher-altitude vineyards and produced Batlle, because they thought the long mature Rioja. Though 30 years old, it is a little less quantity to obtain this aging provided enough complexity. still very alive, with deep sweet fruit that impressive wine. A very good showing, However, Imperial has been getting wears tobacco and meat accents. Anise especially for the vintage. Drink date: fresher and fresher every year. This is still accents the ultrasmooth palate. Full of 2015-2021. aged in bottle with a crown stopper, but complex flavors, with a lingering finish. Score: 92 (Luis Gutiérrez, robertparker. the magnums keep under cork and all Score: 92 (Wine Enthusiast, May 1, 2001) com, April 29, 2015) the following wines are aged under cork. 522581 (XD) 750 mL $220.00 There is great freshness, which makes 107433 (XD) 750 mL $39.00 the wine vibrant and tasty, and it has a balanced finish and integrated, small PALACIOS REMONDO PROPIEDAD URBINA SELECCIÓN 2000 bubbles that provide a creamy texture. 2017 DOCa Rioja And the sugar is almost imperceptible, DOCa Rioja just adding balance for the acidity. The TASTING NOTE: A small step up from the percentage of Chardonnay will be lower TASTING NOTE: The old-vine Garnacha regular Crianza, this comes from parcels in following years to comply with the 2017 Propiedad was produced with that are all over 20 years’ old and shows Corpinnat requirements. 2014 has to be grapes coming from organically farmed a little more concentration as a result. one of the finest vintages for Imperial. All vineyards in Las Mulgas, Valfrío, Valviejo Leafy, floral and wonderfully fragrant, with of the bottles display the disgorgement and Corral de Serrano in Alfaro, vineyards hints of leather, dill and fresh tobacco, date and the number of months the wine that are organically farmed. The it’s chalky and focused on the finish with matured with the lees in bottle. destemmed and crushed grapes a touch of oak sweetness. 2019-26. Score: 92 (Luis Gutiérrez, robertparker. fermented in oak vats with indigenous Score: 93 (Tim Atkin, MW, timatkin.com, com, Aug. 30, 2019) yeasts and the wine matured in larger Rioja Special Report 2019) oak vats (mostly 5,000-liter) for 12 16630 (D) 750 mL $51.00 months. It has the Mediterranean profile 11184 (XD) 750 mL $34.00 of the vintage with some jovial notes of orange peel and red cherries intermixed with aromatic herbs. The palate reveals SPARKLING WINE fine-grained, slightly dusty tannins. The palate has more freshness than what you GRAMONA IMPERIAL GRAN expect from the notes on the nose. This RESERVA BRUT CORPINNAT 2014 wine has a good evolution in bottle even DO in warmer years like this or 2015. Drink TASTING NOTE: 2014 was the first year date: 2019-2025. when the still wines from Gramona were Score: 94 (Luis Gutiérrez, robertparker. certified by Demeter and when they com, June 28, 2019) started using their Coquard press. It was 438671 (XD) 750 mL $53.00 not an easy year, one with plenty of rains and maladies, which resulted in a crop that was 15% smaller than the average at Gramona. Their classical 2014 Brut Imperial is a blend of 40% each Xarello and Macabeo with 15% Chardonnay and 13 VINTAGES
THE CLASSICS COLLECTION • NOVEMBER 2020 CANADA BY FARR TOUT PRÈS PINOT NOIR 2016 Geelong, Victoria A compelling, ageable Cabernet Sauvignon TASTING NOTE: The more elevated of and an elegant, complex the sites, with plenty of limestone, Blanc de Noirs. ironstone and loam serving as the chassis to volcanic, gravel and iron strand bodywork. The vines are dense, echoing ONTARIO Burgundy. While the other wines in the swag incorporate a generous seasoning RED WINE of whole-bunch, this is 100% non- destemmed. This is a wine of a spicy, root REIF ESTATE FIRST GROWTH spice-chinotto astringency meshed to CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2016 a chiaroscuro of lighter, darker and exotic VQA Niagara River, Niagara-on-the-Lake fruit references. Edgy, spiky and of TASTING NOTE: The fruit was hand- compelling depth. The least showy, yet harvested from the Cabernet Sauvignon the depth and intensity augur for a vineyard block planted in 1989 in the vineyard pinot noir, aged five years on wonderful future. Drink by: 2028. Niagara River sub-app and thinned to the lees. The nose shows well integrated Score: 96 (Ned Goodwin, a restricted 2 tonnes per acre. After baked apple, hazelnut, sourdough and winecompanion.com.au, Aug. 1, 2019) fermentation was complete the wine cedary spice. The palate is mid-weight, 14982 (XD) 750 mL $110.00 moved into new French and new with almost creamy mousse, very good Hungarian oak barrels where the wine acidity, and dry, nutty, slightly bitter pistachio shell finish. The length is GIANT STEPS APPLEJACK completed malolactic fermentation and excellent to outstanding. PINOT NOIR 2018 aged for 30 months. It has a powerful Single vineyard, Yarra Valley, Victoria and seductive nose of ripe black Score: 93 (David Lawrason, winealign. currants, blackberries, plums, cassis, com, Dec. 5, 2019) TASTING NOTE: Sourced from vineyards graphite, sandalwood, mocha, leather and 361394 (XD) 750 mL $59.95 at 984-feet in elevation in the Upper wonderful spice aromas. All that carries Yarra, the nose of this wine is intensely to the palate and more, with an array of reminiscent of truffles, but there’s plenty dark berries including concentrated of fruit, florals and spice, too, expressed currants and cassis with kirsch, rich spice notes, polished tannins and complex AUSTRALIA in tones of red berries, roses, white pepper, dried herbs and minerals. layers of ripe fruit that all lead to a long, History buffs take note: Beautifully nuanced and textured on the energetic finish. This wine was delicious this selection features a Shiraz palate, it’s both broad and laser-focused, when opened for the initial tasting, from 124-year-old vines and a slinking with savory tannins, crunchy but was improved greatly a day later. Semillon from 150- year-old vines. red fruit and herbs. The finish is long and I suggest it will improve for 10 years complex, making it impossible not to plus in your cellar. The best Cabernet RED WINE take another sip. It’s delicious now, but it Sauvingon I have tasted from Niagara. could cellar until 2029. Editors’ Choice. Score: 94 (Rick VanSickle, Score: 95 (Christina Pickard, Wine BROKENWOOD WADE BLOCK 2 Enthusiast, Jan. 1, 2020) winesinniagara.com, Nov. 4, 2019) SHIRAZ 2017 17500 (XD) 750 mL $100.00 McLaren Vale, South Australia 10774 (XD) 750 mL $60.00 TASTING NOTE: Matured for 16 months SPARKLING WINE in French oak. A most attractive wine, KAY BROTHERS AMERY VINEYARD taking full advantage of the vintage BLOCK 6 SHIRAZ 2016 with its supple medium-bodied weight McLaren Vale, South Australia 13TH STREET GRANDE CUVÉE and mouthfeel. Then there’s the McLaren TASTING NOTE: Block 6 is east-facing, BLANC DE NOIRS SPARKLING 2013 Vale dark chocolate, blackberry and Traditional method, Whitty Vineyard, the 124yo vines running north-south. fine tannins to come into focus. It ticks Hand-picked, crushed and destemmed, VQA Creek Shores, Niagara Peninsula all the boxes. Drink by: 2037. open-fermented, 10 days on skins, TASTING NOTE: Here’s a mature, nicely Score: 95 (James Halliday, matured for 23 months in puncheons elegant, nuanced and complex traditional winecompanion.com.au, Aug. 1, 2019) (40% new). The most remarkable feature method sparkler based entirely on single 681171 (XD) 750 mL $58.00 14 VINTAGES
THE CLASSICS COLLECTION • NOVEMBER 2020 of the wine is its medium-bodied elegance, with dark cherry and NEW ZEALAND GREYWACKE BOTRYTIS PINOT GRIS 2015 blackberry fruits supported by soft Two aromatic and focused Marlborough, South Island tannins. A tour de force. Special value. Pinot Noirs, a complex Chardonnay, TASTING NOTE: The lush, honeyed Drink by: 2046. and a botrytis-affected Pinot Gris. 2015 Botrytis Pinot Gris kicks off Score: 97 (James Halliday, with scents of beeswax, marmalade winecompanion.com.au, Aug. 1, 2019) RED WINE and candied ginger. It’s medium to 598870 (XD) 750 mL $108.00 full-bodied, broad and mouth coating GRASSHOPPER ROCK on the palate but reasonably balanced, EARNSCLEUGH VINEYARD with hints of fresh peaches, tangerines MOUNT PLEASANT MAURICE PINOT NOIR 2017 and a bit of citrus pith on the finish. O’SHEA SHIRAZ 2017 Central Otago, South Island Hunter Valley, New South Wales Drink date: 2020-2025. TASTING NOTE: Ample ripeness of red Score: 93 (Joe Czerwinski, robertparker. TASTING NOTE: Fruit sourced from the com, March 31, 2020) fruits and charming aromas of violet, Old Hill, Old Paddock and Rosehill thyme and plum. Structured and silky 16884 (S) 375 mL $37.00 Vineyards. Matured in 20% new large on the palate, bursting with freshness, format French oak for 14 months. This is generous and ripe. a truly sensational release. It has flow, Score: 95 (Decanter World Wine Awards, fruit and form, but the drama is in the finish, which shoots majestically into the 2019) SOUTH distance. This wine pretty much has it all. It fans classic regional red flavours across 493163 (XD) 750 mL $45.00 AFRICA the palate; its core is strong and pure; A groundbreaking, SCHUBERT BLOCK B PINOT NOIR its balance would do a yoga instructor cellar-worthy Syrah sourced 2017 proud; and it has X-factor up to its Wairarapa, North Island from a rugged, steep vineyard. eyeballs. Drink by: 2050. Score: 98 (Campbell Mattinson, TASTING NOTE: Very attractive, brambly RED WINE winecompanion.com.au, Aug. 1, 2019) red cherries with aromatic detail that leads to a refined and focused palate 237941 (XD) 750 mL $250.00 that has a very punchy, fresh and vibrant PORSELEINBERG SYRAH 2017 core of succulent, rich, darker cherries. WO Swartland WHITE WINE Succulent and long. Drink or hold. TASTING NOTE: Has any brand in Score: 95 (James Suckling, South Africa achieved quite so much as jamessuckling.com, Dec. 4, 2019) Porseleinberg in less than a decade? CHÂTEAU TANUNDA 150-YEAR-OLD This is the best vintage yet from this 66985 (XD) 750 mL $69.00 VINES SEMILLON 2019 steep, brutal, extreme schist-rich site and Barossa Valley, South Australia that’s saying a good deal. Big, bold and TASTING NOTE: Exhibiting poise and WHITE WINE intense, with incredible, almost feral elegance, the wine shows lemon peel, intensity, incense, tar and black pepper Granny Smith apple and blossom aromas aromas and layers of inky dark fruit. A ELEPHANT HILL RESERVE on the nose with a hint of beeswax. It’s CHARDONNAY 2017 stunning wine from a stunning site made linear and persistent with outstanding Hawke’s Bay, North Island by a gem of a winemaker. 2022-35. concentration backed by vibrant acidity, Score: 98 (Tim Atkin, MW, timatkin.com, finishing impressively long and engaging. TASTING NOTE: Gorgeously complex South Africa Special Report 2019) A wine of splendid purity and style. and inviting, the wine shows ripe peach, fig, lemon peel and vanillin oak 483941 (XD) 750 mL $100.00 At its best: 2022 to 2034. Score: 96 (Sam Kim, wineorbit.co.nz, characters on the nose, leading to a Jan. 2020) concentrated palate that is wonderfully expansive and creamy. It is opulent 17216 (XD) 750 mL $54.00 and sophisticated with an impressively long refined finish. At its best: now to 2023. Score: 95 (Sam Kim, wineorbit.co.nz, Nov. 2019) 17213 (XD) 750 mL $52.00 15 VINTAGES
THE CLASSICS COLLECTION • NOVEMBER 2020 ARGENTINA SPARKLING WINE C C H Three top-scoring single-vineyard wines from the top of the world. VALDIVIESO CUVÉE ANIVERSARIO BLANC DE BLANCS 2014 T Traditional method, Casablanca Valley C RED WINE M TASTING NOTE: Made entirely with i Chardonnay from Casablanca, this c ACHÁVAL FERRER FINCA MIRADOR remarkable sparkling wine is one of the MALBEC 2015 b best I’ve tasted from Chile. With four t Mendoza years on lees before disgorgement, it’s M TASTING NOTE: Lots of plum liqueur, layered, complex and wonderfully fresh, fi morello cherries, dried redcurrants, with bready, citrus-edged flavours and e spices, cedar, ash, charcoal, vanilla and wonderful palate length. 2019-2026. fi coffee with a touch of herbs and Chinese RUTINI SINGLE VINEYARD Score: 96 (Tim Atkin, MW, timatkin.com, D spices. Full-bodied, very intense with CABERNET FRANC 2016 Chile Special Report 2019) S tons of dense fruit and ripe tannins, Gualtallary, Tupungato, Uco Valley, 15633 (XD) 750 mL $48.00 r leading all the way to the powerful, very Mendoza long finish. Not for the faint of heart. 3 TASTING NOTE: 100% Cabernet Franc. Drink in 2022. Beautiful balsamic, floral, herbal, tobacco Score: 95 (James Suckling, jamessuckling.com, Dec. 27, 2018) and plum aromatics. The palate is juicy, rounded and fresh with chalky tannins, USA C 2 High-scoring, collectible reds N 256008 (XD) 750 mL $140.00 tension and energy. Long and refreshing from Napa, including multiple finish with an aftertaste of tobacco T large formats of the Ulysses 2016 and herbs. c ALTA VISTA ALIZARINE and a brace of Syrah-led wines Score: 96 (Decanter World Wine Awards, b SINGLE VINEYARD MALBEC 2015 from Paso Robles’s L’Aventure. Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza 2019) a 16507 (XD) 750 mL $60.00 c TASTING NOTE: As was the case with the other single-vineyard wine from Luján CALIFORNIA s c de Cuyo, I also found more freshness w RED WINE CHILE and balance in the 2015 Malbec T Alizarine than in the 2014. There is less c alcohol and more balanced acidity. As An intense Cabernet from an AMUSE BOUCHE RED 2016 g the vinification and aging was the same iconic producer, and a complex Napa Valley fi (concrete and 66% new barrels), the Blanc de Blancs that would be 2 TASTING NOTE: A blend of 86% Merlot differences are due to the vintage, but ideal for milestone celebrations. S and 14% Cabernet Franc, the medium I think this is more about the vineyard, r garnet-purple colored 2016 Proprietary Las Compuertas, a traditional zone RED WINE Red Blend Amuse Bouche sings of that is being eaten by the city, the cost 3 crushed red and black plums, black 5 of land for real estate is too much of a DON MELCHOR cherry compote, Ceylon tea, licorice and temptation that is hard to resist. The CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2017 Indian spices with a waft of potpourri. year was cooler, and the wine is fresher C 30th anniversary, Puente Alto, The palate is medium to full-bodied, and had less alcohol than the 2014 Maipo Valley C exquisitely elegant with firm yet satiny I tasted next to it. Concentration with N TASTING NOTE: Fantastic aromas of tannins, refreshing, perfumed, spicy and harmony. This should age nicely in bottle. blackcurrants and other dark fruit with very long with savory notions coming T Drink date: 2019-2025. crushed stone, iron and oysters, following through. Drink date: 2020-2042. S Score: 94 (Luis Gutiérrez, robertparker. through to a full body that shows Score: 95+ (Lisa Perrotti-Brown, MW, o com, Oct. 31, 2019) incredible energy and depth, offering ripe robertparker.com, Oct. 29, 2018) e 119834 (XD) 750 mL $60.00 yet fresh fruit, together with bright herbs v 362863 (XD) 750 mL $610.00 and earth. Precision and balance of the b intensity of the vintage. Layered. Perhaps I the greatest Don Melchor ever made. s Try after 2022. p Score: 99 (James Suckling, M jamessuckling.com, March 2, 2020) S c 403980 (XD) 750 mL $160.00 7 16 VINTAGES
THE CLASSICS COLLECTION • NOVEMBER 2020 CADE ESTATE CLIFF LEDE POETRY EISELE VINEYARD CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2017 CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2017 CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2016 Howell Mountain, Napa Valley Stags Leap District, Napa Valley Napa Valley TASTING NOTE: The 2017 Cade Estate TASTING NOTE: Deep garnet-purple in TASTING NOTE: The 2016 Cabernet Cabernet Sauvignon, blended with 4% color, the 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon Sauvignon has a deep garnet-purple Malbec, 4% Petit Verdot and 4% Merlot, Poetry gives up crème de cassis, baked color. Its nose begins a little reserved, is deep garnet-purple colored and a little plums, blueberry compote, chocolate slowly revealing a quiet intensity of closed, slowly giving up warm cassis, box, earth and aniseed scents on the freshly crushed blackberries, chocolate- blackberry tart and mulberries with nose with wafts of cedar chest and covered cherries, cassis and aniseed touches of spice box, pencil shavings and pencil lead. Full-bodied, firm and grainy, with compelling nuances of black tea, Marmite toast. The full-bodied palate is it is concentrated, very classy and cigar box, truffles and charcuterie, plus, firm, grainy and muscular with an earthy multilayered with great energy and a with coaxing, gentle wafts of red roses expression and just enough freshness, long finish. Drink date: 2021-2052. and crushed rocks emerge. The medium finishing on a lingering mineral note. Score: 98 (Lisa Perrotti-Brown, MW, to full-bodied palate is simply arresting, Drink date: 2020-2037. robertparker.com, Oct. 31, 2019) offering a myriad floral and earth sparks Score: 94 (Lisa Perrotti-Brown, MW, 14209 (XD) 750 mL $450.00 amidst a black fruit core and with robertparker.com, Oct. 31, 2019) seamless, firm, very fine-grained tannins. Well-knit freshness brings forth layer 325027 (XD) 750 mL $206.00 EISELE VINEYARD ALTAGRACIA after layer of delicate nuances on the CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2016 very long, mineral-laced finish. The team CARDINALE CABERNET SAUVIGNON Napa Valley at Eisele, led by Frédéric Engerer (of 2016 TASTING NOTE: The Altagracia is Chateau Latour) and beautifully Napa Valley produced almost exclusively from estate orchestrated by winemaker Hélène TASTING NOTE: The deep garnet-purple fruit this year and was bottled at the Mingot, have knocked it out of the park colored 2016 Proprietary Red Wine is end of June 2018. Deep garnet-purple this vintage with this singular expression blended of 89% Cabernet Sauvignon colored, the 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon that both embraces the site’s heritage and 11% Merlot. It opens with Altagracia comes bursting forth with and reveals parts unknown. compelling chocolate box and licorice vivacious black cherries, blackberries, Score: 100 (Lisa Perrotti-Brown, MW, scents over a core of black and red wild blueberries and cassis notes with robertparker.com, Oct. 29, 2018) currants, warm plums and baking spices touches of cinnamon stick, cloves, forest 576140 (XD) 750 mL $820.00 with hints of cedar chest and pencil lead. floor, violets and dusty earth with a 575415 (XD) 1500 mL $1700.00 The palate is full-bodied with layers of waft of violets. The palate is medium to cassis and kirsch flavors framed by firm, full-bodied, firm and grainy with loads grainy tannins and fabulous freshness, of iron and mineral accents, finishing L’AVENTURE ESTATE CUVÉE 2017 finishing long and spicy. Drink date: long and perfumed. Paso Robles 2022-2048. Score: 95 (Lisa Perrotti-Brown, MW, TASTING NOTE: A blend of 49% Syrah, Score: 97 (Lisa Perrotti-Brown, MW, robertparker.com, Oct. 29, 2018) 30% Cabernet Sauvignon and 21% robertparker.com, Oct. 29, 2018) 390823 (XD) 750 mL $205.00 Petit Verdot, the 2017 Estate Cuvée 390310 (XD) 750 mL $499.00 has a very deep purple-black color and 575753 (XD) 1500 mL $1099.00 explosive nose of black cherry and boysenberry preserves, crème de cassis, cedar, violet, burnt orange peel, baker’s CHATEAU MONTELENA ESTATE chocolate, thyme, grilled meats, loamy CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2015 earth and Indian spices. The silky, Napa Valley full-bodied palate is expansive, spicy TASTING NOTE: The 2015 Cabernet and floral laced, with a firm but incredibly Sauvignon Estate is a brilliant wine and pixelated frame and great freshness one of the gems out there from this on the long, dense finish. This merits estate. It offers crème de cassis, crushed another 3-5 years in bottle at least. violets, purple iris, and white flowers, with Drink date: 2021-2041. beautifully integrated background oak. Score: 96 (Erin Brooks, robertparker.com, It’s deep, rich, medium to full-bodied, and Feb. 6, 2020) seamless, with fine tannins, truly brilliant 390880 (XD) 750 mL $178.00 purity of fruit, and a great, great finish. Maturity: 2019-2044. Score: 97 (Jeb Dunnuck, jebdunnuck. com, Jan. 31, 2019) 709881 (XD) 750 mL $230.00 17 VINTAGES
THE CLASSICS COLLECTION • NOVEMBER 2020 SHAFER TD-9 2017 PATZ & HALL HYDE VINEYARD Napa Valley CHARDONNAY 2016 Carneros TASTING NOTE: Moving to the reds, the 2017 TD-9 Proprietary Red Blend is TASTING NOTE: The 2016 Chardonnay mostly Merlot yet includes 22% Malbec Hyde Vineyard reveals evocative and a small amount of Cabernet grapefruit, white peach and green mango Sauvignon. Deep purple-hued with sweet notes with suggestions of fresh ginger, aromas of jammy blackberries, spiced almond croissant and honeysuckle. cherries, herbes de Provence, and dried Medium to full-bodied, the palate delivers flowers, it is a wonderfully textured, a fantastic intensity of citrus and tropical medium to full-bodied, balanced red with flavors with a racy backbone and a sweet tannins and a great finish. It’s long, mineral-laced finish. Drink date: going to evolve nicely for 10-12 years. 2018-2028. Maturity: 2020-2032. Score: 94+ (Lisa Perrotti-Brown, MW, Score: 92 (Jeb Dunnuck, jebdunnuck. robertparker.com, June 29, 2018) L’AVENTURE OPTIMUS 2017 com, Jan. 31, 2020) 926659 (XD) 750 mL $99.00 Paso Robles 570788 (XD) 750 mL $110.00 TASTING NOTE: Blended of 49% Syrah, 41% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Petit Verdot, the deep ruby colored 2017 ULYSSES 2016 Optimus opens with aromas of fresh Napa Valley fruits – wild blackberries, crushed TASTING NOTE: Aromas of sweet blueberries and sour cherries – along berries, fresh herbs, currant bush and with loamy earth, touches of cured meats, licorice. Terracotta. Full body, layered saline and olives, very fresh and crunchy and soft, velvety and focused tannins. on the nose. Medium to full-bodied and Breathtaking texture. The focus and silky, it has great intensity and interplay polish is phenomenal. Harmonious. of red, black and blue fruits with spices Enticing. Fascinating and thoughtful. and savory touches. It has a very classy A blend of cabernet sauvignon, frame of finely pixelated tannins and cabernet franc and petit verdot. Drink wonderful freshness, finishing long and or hold [till 2046+]. lifted. This shows excellent restraint! Score: 99 (James Suckling, It’s drinking beautifully now but will jamessuckling.com, Dec. 17, 2018) reward another 3-5 years in the cellar. 478818 (XD) 1500 mL $552.00 Drink date: 2021-2041. 518332 (XD) 3000 mL $1335.00 Score: 93 (Erin Brooks, robertparker.com, 518340 (XD) 6000 mL $3175.00 Feb. 6, 2020) 683409 (XD) 750 mL $90.00 WHITE WINE LOUIS M. MARTINI LOT 1 CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2015 EISELE VINEYARD SAUVIGNON Napa Valley BLANC 2017 Napa Valley TASTING NOTE: Broad-shouldered and dense, with very ripe waves of raspberry, TASTING NOTE: The aromas to this great plum and boysenberry reduction flavors white show wonderful sherbet, limes, coursing through, inlaid with singed green melon, salt and honey blossom. vanilla, apple wood and sweet tobacco Full to medium body, with a vertical, accents. Cuts a wide swath through the compact fruit presence, firmness and finish, with the fruit powering through in great length. Such energy and intensity unison with the toast and a tug of loam. with focus and elegance. Best white of A big ’un. Best from 2020 through 2030. Napa at the moment? Drink or hold. Score: 94 (James Molesworth, Score: 99 (James Suckling, winespectator.com, Feb. 28, 2019) jamessuckling.com, March 2, 2020) 439976 (XD) 750 mL $230.00 210385 (XD) 750 mL $150.00 18 VINTAGES OPPOSITE: The red roofs of Dürnstein, Austria.
THE CLASSICS COLLECTION • NOVEMBER 2020 ONLINE ORDERING STARTS DECEMBER 3 DECEMBER s CLASSICS COLLECTION 19 VINTAGES
THE CLASSICS COLLECTION • DECEMBER 2020 FRANCE MARCHAND-TAWSE LES SUCHOTS VOSNE-ROMANÉE 1ER CRU 2017 CÔTE DE BEAUNE RED WINE Burgundy takes centre stage AC in this month’s collection, TASTING NOTE: The 2017 Vosne- which also features two DOMAINE CHANSON CLOS Romanée Les Suchots 1er Cru is 100% vintages of Cristal. DES FÈVES MONOPOLE BEAUNE whole cluster fruit raised in 50% new oak (two barrels produced). It has a 1ER CRU 2017 generous bouquet of cranberry, wild AC BORDEAUX strawberry and hints of Seville orange TASTING NOTE: The tasting ended with marmalade, a vein of crushed stone Chanson’s monopole Clos des Fèves. RED WINE tucked underneath. The palate is Here it owns 3.8ha of the 4.42ha Les medium-bodied with sappy red berry Fèves, on prime mid-slope limestone soil. fruit, firm grip and good structure, Reticent by comparison, with new wood CHÂTEAU PRIEURE LICHINE 2015 4e cru, AC Margaux the whole bunches influence lending evident, this is a wine of grand cru quality edginess and earthiness toward the to be drunk. 2023-2034. TASTING NOTE: Some very ripe dark- finish. It will require three to five years Score: 95 (Steven Spurrier, decanter.com, plum aromas with a wealth of sweet in bottle, but has good potential. March 2019) spices and earthy notes. The palate has Drinking window: 2022-2040. an impressively rich, suave and smooth 528034 (XD) 750 mL $142.00 Score: 91-93 (Neal Martin, vinous.com, core of black fruit with a powerful palate Jan. 2019) that delivers concentrated and intense DOMAINE TAWSE FRÉMIETS VOLNAY structure. This is superb Margaux. Try 411447 (XD) 750 mL $208.00 1ER CRU 2017 from 2022. AC Score: 96 (James Suckling, ROCHE DE BELLENE TASTING NOTE: The 2017 Volnay Les jamessuckling.com, Feb. 2, 2018) CHARMES-CHAMBERTIN Fremiets 1er Cru contains 50% whole 15953 (XD) 750 mL $110.00 GRAND CRU 2012 clusters, matured in 20% new oak. AC It has quite an intense, slightly broody, TASTING NOTE: As always with a grand marine-influenced bouquet, the oak BURGUNDY cru from Gevrey-Chambertin, this wine shows immense power. It is dominated by discreet in its supporting role. The palate is well balanced and quite concentrated, with touches of black olive infusing CÔTE DE NUITS black fruits as well as signs of the 60% wood aging. Behind, the red cherry fruits the black fruit. The taut, linear finish feels RED WINE are developing along with the lively long and tender. Excellent. Drinking acidity. It needs to age and should not be window: 2021-2036. LOUIS LATOUR LES QUATRE drunk before 2019. Ranked #99 in the Score: 91-93 (Neal Martin, vinous.com, JOURNAUX ROMANÉE SAINT-VIVANT 2015 Wine Enthusiast Top 100 Cellar Jan. 2019) GRAND CRU 2017 Selections. 577197 (XD) 750 mL $98.00 AC Score: 95 (Roger Voss, Wine Enthusiast, TASTING NOTE: Hints of ripe and bright July 1, 2015) HENRI DE VILLAMONT aromas of strawberries and cherries. 235390 (XD) 750 mL $320.00 CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET Floral and very pretty. Full-bodied and MORGEOT 1ER CRU 2015 compact with pretty fruit. Vertical and AC structured. Better after 2022. Score: 95 (James Suckling, TASTING NOTE: This is a ripe wine, jamessuckling.com, Feb. 12, 2019) concentrated with spice, wood aging as well as the rich fruit of the vintage. Its 179598 (XD) 750 mL $860.00 bold fruits are generous and opulent, demanding aging. The wine comes from one of the best known of the Chassagne premier crus. Drink from 2020. Score: 91 (Roger Voss, Wine Enthusiast, Nov. 1, 2017) 15951 (XD) 750 mL $63.00 20 VINTAGES
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