2017 Bordeaux Subskription Bewertungen Michael Grimm
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2017 Bordeaux Subskription
Bewertungen Michael Grimm
Aktualisiert Rottweil, 28. Juni 2018
Sehr geehrte Kunden, liebe Bordeaux-Freunde,
Nina und ich sind aus Bordeaux zurück.
Nach mehr als einer Woche habe ich
mein Urteil gefällt.
2017 Bordeaux wird den Winzern auf
ewig als der Jahrgang mit dem Frost
Ende April in Erinnerung bleiben.
Vor allem die Top-Terroirs wurden
wenig beeinträchtigt. Mehr die tieferen
Lagen. Dort saß der Frost und
sorgte bei vielen Weingütern für
beträchtliche Einbußen bis hin zu
Totalausfall. Die auf den Frost
folgenden Wochen und Monate führten
zu einem klassischen Finale. Das
Ergebnis zeigt für die besten Châteaux
ein erstaunliches Qualitätsniveau,
welches zwischen 2014 und 2015 liegt.
Für die meisten Châteaux näher an
2014 und für einige an 2015/2016
heranreichend. Insgesamt lässt sich
der Jahrgang durch große Frische mit
feinen Veilchen, einer kräftigen Säure
und kräftigen Tanninen charakterisieren. Die Alkoholgehalte liegen auf einem erfreulicherweise eher
niedrigeren Niveau. Ein klassischer Jahrgang, den ich in Abhängigkeit von den noch ausstehenden Preisen
sehr empfehlen kann. Und wie sehr, hängt extrem von denselben ab. Ich rechne mit einer kürzeren Kampagne,
so dass sich der tägliche Blick auf die aktualisierte Liste auf unserer Homepage lohnt.
Nachdem ich nun meine Bewertungen veröffentliche, werde ich diesen nun auch um weitere Notizen von
Kritikern wie Galloni/Martin, Winespectator oder Suckling zur Ihrer Information und Sicherheit beim Kauf
ergänzen. Diese finden Sie in kürze dann ebenfalls auf unserer Homepage.
Meine Notizen finden Sie immer in der ersten Linie nach dem Wein. Ich bewerte im 20-Punkteschema. Um mit
dem 100er Schema vergleichen zu können, multiplizieren Sie einfach mal 5. Ein Wein mit 18+ bei mir wären
dann in etwas 91-92 Punkte, 18,5 wären 93-94 und 19 = 95 Punkte,…
Mit den besten Wünschen
Ihr
Michael Grimm
Château Klassifikation BV EUR/Fl. EUR/Fl.
Notizen von Michael Grimm + zusätzliche Bewertungen netto brutto
Bordeaux / Bordeaux Superieur
Bouscat “Caduce” kB 7,14 8,50
This is the entry-level cuvée from François Dubernard's
9.2-hectare, southfacing, hillside vineyard just west of
Fronsac. Density is 4,500-5,500 vines/ha and includes
70% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Malbec, and 5%
Cabernet Franc. Average age in 2017 was 43 years. Very
well-managed, sustainably farmed and mechanically tilled
vineyard. Harvested on September 28th and 29th for the
Merlot and Malbec, and on the 30th for the Cabernets. Net
yields were just 10.9 hls/ha after selection. Fermented in
unlined cement tanks with a 21-day maceration. Aged on
its post-malo lees then for 12 to 14 months in second,
third, and fourth-fill barrels from Seguin-Moreau,
Taransaud, Orion, Darnajou, Le Grand and Rousseau. The
potential blend is the same as the encépagement.
François estimates that his production on this cuvée
should run about 13,300 bottles. 13.5% natural alcohol.
Antonio Galloni (87-89): „… Domaine du Bouscat's 2017
Caduce is dark, fleshy and voluptuous. Black cherry,
plum, chocolate and new leather are all pushed forward in this racy, deeply textured wine. Once again, Caduce
hits all the right notes, including price. This is a terrific showing for Caduce. The blend is 70% Merlot, 20%
Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Malbec and 5% Cabernet Franc“
Neal Martin (86-88): „… The 2017 du Bouscaut “Caduce” has a blackberry and black plum bouquet, a touch of
graphite in the background, quite “punchy” in style and not holding back. The palate is medium-bodied with
grainy tannin, quite firm in the mouth with a light, simple, slightly tarry finish. Fine.“
Parker/Lisa Perrotti-Brown (85-87): „… The tentative blend of the 2017 Caduce is 70% Merlot, 20% Cabernet
Sauvignon, 5% Malbec and 5% Cabernet Franc. Very deep purple-black in color, it gives up crushed black
currants, black cherries, licorice and dark chocolate notes with touches of smoked meats and Marmite toast.
The palate is medium-bodied, chewy and with plenty of character, finishing on an earthy note“
James Suckling (90-91): „… Tight and juicy red with plums and other dark fruit. Medium body, fine tannins and
a delicious finish. Fresh and clean. Solid”
Jeb Dunnuck (87-89): „…The entry-level wine from Francois Dubernard is the 2017 Domaine du Bouscat
Caduce, a rounded, medium to full-bodied effort in the vintage that has an herbal edge in its black fruits,
tobacco, and peppery herbs. It’s the most upfront and charming of the three cuvées and should drink nicely
right out of the gate.
Grand Village 17,5+ 12,61 15,00
Intensive, frische Frucht,
Himbeeren, feine floreale
Noten, schöne Dichte,
kräftige Tannine, gute
Struktur
Eine jede Hand ist wichtig
für die großartigen Weine
der Familie Guinaudeau
(Lafleur)
Antonio Galloni (87-90): „…
The 2017 Grand Village is
dark, fleshy and succulent,
with saline notes that
appear later and give the
wine its bracing, somewhat
tense, finish. Frost took out
two of the three parcels in
the blend and resulted in a
production of just 9% of
normal in a wine that is
almost exclusively Merlot
with just drops of Cabernet
Franc. The barrel sample I
tasted suggests that the 2017 has a good deal of potential, the shocks of the vintage notwithstanding“
Neal Martin (87-89): „… The 2017 Grand Village was picked from 21 to 30 September. It has an attractive
mulberry and blackberry scented bouquet with a light sea spray influence. The palate is medium-bodied with
slightly grainy tannin, quite saline in the mouth with an approachable, sappy finish. Fine, although there is
only 10% of the normal production“
Parker/Lisa Perrotti-Brown (89-91): „… This vintage of Grand Village has produced just 9% of the production of
2016. Medium garnet-purple in color, the 2017 Grand Village has pretty notes of powdered cinnamon, wood
smoke, Bing cherries and black raspberries with a waft of lavender. Medium-bodied and velvety, it has good
mid-palate density and a long spicy finish.“
James Suckling (90-91): „…A fine and silky red with dark-berry and chocolate character. Medium body and a
fresh finish. Production down 90% from frost”
Decanter (89): „… A fruit forward wine, layered with blueberry and plum notes. It’s extremely pleasurable, with
a real sense of vibrancy and freshness. Good winemaking on display, as you would expect from the team
behind Pomerol's Lafleur. Around 60% of this estate was affected by frost, and – as no second generation fruit
was used – the production is around 9% of the previous vintage. This equates to around 6,000 bottles, which
will be released as magnums and double magnums. Drinking Window 2020 – 2028“
Jeb Dunnuck (90-92): „…Lafleur’s Grand Village estate lost 80% of their crop due to the April frost, yet they
still made a draconian selection and produced only 10% of their normal production. Tasting almost like a
finished wine, the 2017 Grand Village (Lafleur) offers a perfumed bouquet of ripe cherries and raspberry fruits,
flowers, and spice to go with a medium-bodied, silky, incredibly elegant profile on the palate. From a family
estate north of Fronsac, there’s not much of it, but it’s an undeniable success in the vintage”
G – Acte 9 (100% Merlot) 17,5-18+ 24,37 29,00
Schöne, hellbeerige Frucht, feine floreale Noten, elegant, frisch, gute Tannine
Antonio Galloni (89-92): „… The 2017 Acte 9 emerges from a brutal year that took with it 90% of the production
during the late April frost. All of the Cabernet Franc was lost, which means that Acte 9 is 100% Merlot. Even
so, the 2017 possesses lovely depth and purity in its dark cherry, plum and new leather flavors“
Neal Martin (89-91): „… The 2017 Acte 9, which was picked on 21 September, has a linear, conservative
bouquet with black fruit mixed with red plum, briary, wild hedgerow and sous-bois notes, just a hint of black
olive developing with aeration. The palate is smooth and purple in the mouth, fleshier than usual due to the
100% Merlot. The Cabernet Franc was hit hard but the frost and wiped out. Hints of white pepper surface
towards the finish that is less powerful than usual but feels long and tender.”
Parker/Lisa Perrotti-Brown (90-92): „…There is only 10% of the normal production this year, from the best clay
and limestone soils in Fronsac that they can find. Unusually, this is 100% Merlot this year—all the Cabernet
Franc vines were lost to frost. Medium garnet-purple colored, the 2017 Guinaudeau G Acte 9 gives up kirsch,
red currant jelly, roses and fresh blackberries with a touch of garrigue. The palate is medium-bodied, vibrant,
bright and fresh with very soft tannins and a lift on the finish.“
James Suckling (91-92): „…A solid and rich wine with blackberry and blueberry character. Medium-to full-
bodied and firm and silky-textured. Tiny production. Only 10% of what’s usually made”
Decanter (91): „…Grown on clay limestone soils, this is a serious wine; persistent and mouth-filling greengage
and damson notes, with touches of rosemary. Clear austere notes, but also clear precision and an insistent
slow build across the palate. This will take its time, but it has clean and well-finessed lines, gentle acidity and
well-placed tannins. Unusually this is 100% Merlot because their massal-selection Cabernet Franc didn't make
it through the frost. Around 10% of normal production. Drinking Window 2020 – 2034“
Jeb Dunnuck (90-92): „…From a new vineyard in Fronsac consisting of light clay and limestone soils, planted
to a massal selection from the Lafleur vineyard in Pomerol, the 2017 Grand Village (Lafleur) Acte 9 is 100%
Merlot brought up in barrel (it’s normally equal parts Merlot and Cabernet Franc, but the Cabernet Franc didn’t
make the blend in 2017.) It’s another seamless, incredibly elegant red that offers lots of cherry and strawberry
fruits, flowers, and violets to go with an ethereal, medium-bodied, seamless style on the palate. It’s not a
massive wine by any measure, yet it shines for its purity, elegance, and length, and should easily be an
outstanding wine”
Médoc / Haut-Médoc
D‘Agassac CB – Haut-Médoc 17,5+-18+ 12,61 15,00
Blaubeerige bis rotbeerige Nase, softe Tannine, elegant,
gut
Antonio Galloni (89-91): „… The 2017 d'Agassac is terrific.
A wine of energy and tension, the 2017 bristles with real
class. The flavors are really popping in this finely cut,
energetic Haut-Médoc Cru Bourgeois. Bright, red-toned
fruit, white pepper and spice abound in this beautifully
precise wine. Because of frost, the 2017 has more
Cabernet Sauvignon and less Merlot than is typically the
case. The blend is 80% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20%
Merlot“
Neal Martin (83-85): „… The 2017 d’Agassac has an earthy
and slightly green bouquet that feels a little under-ripe,
though not to the extent of others in this vintage. The
palate is medium-bodied with dense tannin. This feels firm and a little rigid in the mouth, needing more flashiness to balance out the finish“ Parker/Lisa Perrotti-Brown (86-88): „…Medium to deep garnet-purple colored, the 2017 D'Agassac has fragrant notes of Bing cherries and black raspberries with hints of rose hips and dusty soil. The palate is medium- bodied with a chewy yet approachable frame and juicy mid-palate fruit, finishing on a perfumed note.“ James Suckling (88-89): „…A focused and precise Haut-Medoc with a firm line of tannins and lots of berry and herb character. Light- to medium-bodied. Fresh acidity and a slightly short finish.” Jeb Dunnuck (88-90): „… From an estate next to Château La Lagune in the southern part of the Médoc, the 2017 Château D'Agassac sports a deep ruby/purple color as well as plenty of spice box, cassis, and earthy sous bois-like aromas and flavors. It's nicely concentrated and has plenty of structure as well as a soft, rounded texture. Like most 2017s, it’s going to drink nicely in its youth” Beaumont CB – Haut-Médoc 17+ 10,34 12,30 Frische, klare, blaubeerige Frucht, am Gaumen etwas Pappe, trocken, wirkt extrahiert Antonio Galloni (87-89): „… The 2017 Beaumont is a tasty Haut-Médoc Cru Bourgeois with good depth and personality. Leather, smoke, grilled herbs, licorice and incense give the 2017 a distinctly earthy personality. There is a good bit of Cabernet character in this pleasantly rustic red. Sadly, yields are down 50%“ Neal Martin (86-88): „… The 2017 Beaumont has a simple blackberry, raspberry preserve and charcoal-tinged bouquet, nicely defined but not intense. It doesn’t have to be. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly tough tannin on the entry, structured and quite dense with a stocky finish that has a pleasant blackberry and iodine aftertaste. Fine“ Decanter (87): „… Owned by the same group as Beychevelle, this is a fairly even split of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, with a dash of Petit Verdot. The austerity of the vintage is on display in its slightly dour tannins, but it's well-held together and has a 2014 feel about it. There's good depth to the fruit. A good value choice. Drinking Window 2022 – 2030” Cambon la Pelouse CB – Haut-Médoc kB 11,68 13,90 Antonio Galloni (87-90): „… The 2017 Cambon La Pelouse is pliant and quite attractive. Succulent dark red cherry, plum, tobacco, chocolate and grilled herbs infuse this inviting Haut Médoc Cru Bourgeois with plenty of character. In 2017, Cambon La Pelouse is a bit more restrained than it usually is. Tasted two times“ Neal Martin (83-85): „… The 2017 Cambon la Pelouse is austere and mean on the nose and desperately needs more fruit to come through. The palate is medium-bodied with dry tannin, very simple compared to its peers and fading on the finish. This estate can produce good Bordeaux but this is not one of them“ Winespectator (87-90): „…Gentle cassis and cherry preserve flavors are carried by light chalky tannins. A floral note runs through the finish” James Suckling (88-89): „…Tight and a little lean on the palate. Medium body, firm tannins and a fresh finish” Jeb Dunnuck (88-90): „… The 2017 Château Cambon La Pelouse is another inky-colored Médoc from the team of Hubert de Boüard. Tons of ripe black and blue fruits, crushed violets, and hints of graphite give way to a medium to full-bodied, ripe, beautifully concentrated beauty that's going to be a hidden gem in this vintage.” Citran CB – Haut-Médoc 17,5-18+ 13,36 15,90 Fruchtig, würzig, spicy, schöne Nase, am Gaumen klassisch schön, sehr gute Struktur Antonio Galloni (84-87): „… The 2017 Citran is a plump, straightforward wine to drink in its youth, while the fruit remains vibrant. There is good definition to the sweet red cherry, plum and floral notes in this mid-weight offering“ Neal Martin (88-90): „… The 2017 Citran has a plump blackberry and raspberry scented bouquet with a touch of baking powder in the background. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, tightly packed blackberry fruit laced with graphite leading to a harmonious and fresh finish that is just the ticket. This should become a good solid Haut-Médoc“ James Suckling (89-90): „…A fruity and attractive 2017 that shows lots of nutmeg and spice character now as well as round tannins, fresh acidity and a medium finish” Decanter (91): „… Good depth of flavour, rich but austere, with a silky texture that gets better and better with time in the glass and expanding outwards, which is not always the case in 2017. This is not exuberant, tight or austere, and it sings out with Médoc signature: clear notes of fresh mint and cedar oak. It should age well, and has touches of 2001 and 2014 about it. A buy in the vintage. Drinking Window 2022 – 2034” Jeb Dunnuck (85-87): „… A solid looking Haut-Médoc, the 2017 Château Citran reveals attractive notes of black raspberries and cassis fruit, with plenty of background spicy oak, medium body, good concentration, but no baby fat or opulence. I’d give bottles a year or two once released, and it should keep for 5-6 years” Chasse Spleen CB - Moulis 17,5-18 24,79 29,50 Intensive, frische Frucht, blaubeerig, erstes Holz, sehr gute Struktur, Finish etwas süß-sauer aber insgesamt sehr gute Säure und Tannine Antonio Galloni (87-90): „… The 2017 Chasse-Spleen is bold and a bit rough around the edges, but it also has quite a bit of depth. Dark red and black stone fruit, leather, smoke, tobacco, chocolate and charcoal embers give the 2017 its dark, somewhat somber personality. Although not totally put together just yet, the 2017 appears to have good potential” Neal Martin (86-88): „… The 2017 Chasse-Spleen is a wine that I encountered two or three times during my tastings. I have a lot of admiration for this property however, every time I found evidence of under-ripeness on
the nose that fed through onto the palate, whilst the finish is rather astringent. After great wines in both 2015 and 2016, the 2017 seems compromised by the growing season.“ Parker/Lisa Perrotti-Brown (82-84): „… Medium to deep garnet-purple colored, the 2017 Chasse-Spleen has a nose of baked blackberries and plum preserves with tapenade and hoisin hints. The mouth is medium-bodied, firm and chewy with a slightly lean mid-palate and short finish“ James Suckling (89-90): „…A tightly wound and layered Chasse-Spleen showing plenty of red fruit sandwiched between firm yet round tannins and driven through by pretty acidity to a medium chewy finish” Decanter (89): „… Clear cinnamon notes – the oak is certainly highly toasted, giving a swirl of glamour to the rich black cherry notes. There is ambition and delivery here, without too much extraction, but fruit is clearly not overly generous. Aged in 40% new oak. Drinking Window 2022 – 2034” Charmail CB – Haut-Médoc kB 12,86 15,30 Antonio Galloni (87-89): „… The 2017 Charmail is an attractive wine, but it is also a touch compact. Tobacco, dried herb and worn-in leather open up nicely. It will be interesting to see if the 2017 gains a bit more flesh during aging. There is good energy and freshness, but not a lot of meat on the bones. Tasted three times.“ Neal Martin (83-85): „… The 2017 Charmail feels rather disjointed on the nose and lacked real presence. The palate is medium-bodied with light tannin, dry and rather mean towards the finish. This will be for early drinking only“ Parker/Lisa Perrotti-Brown (85-87): „… Medium to deep garnet-purple in color, the 2017 Charmail gives black cherries and blackberries on the nose with wafts of potpourri and tapenade. The palate is medium-bodied, soft and juicy with appealing freshness and just a bit of chew on the finish“ James Suckling (89-90): „…Light and fresh with succulent tannins, some nice berry fruit and a pretty finish. A bit dilute now but may fill out during the elevage” Decanter (85): „… Bernard D'Halluin owns this 26ha estate, planted at 7,700 vines per hectare. This starts well, with some interesting flesh and good juice through the palate, and an attractive toasty feel that adds body and character. It dries a little on the finish; that 2017 issue of not quite delivering the full fruit experience. It's well put together but slightly underripe. Hubert de Boüard is consultant. Drinking Window 2021 – 2031” Jeb Dunnuck (86-88): „… Black cherries, smoked herbs, and earthy notes all emerge from the 2017 Château Charmail, which is medium-bodied, fresh and lively, with bright acidity and moderate tannin. It's a clean, well- made Haut Médoc that will keep for 5-7 years. Tasted twice” Fonreaud CB - Listrac 18+ 11,18 13,30 Sehr schöne, frische, hellere bis leicht dunkle Frucht, Mandeln, gute Struktur, gute Säure und Tannine, klassisch, schön Neal Martin (87-89): „… The 2017 Fonréaud is a Listrac estate that was less affected by the frost than its neighbors. It has a nicely proportioned bouquet with blackberry, briary and cedar scents that gently unfold in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, a little oaky at the moment but there is decent black fruit laced with cedar and tobacco towards the finish“ Parker/Lisa Perrotti-Brown (85-87): „… The 2017 Fonreaud is deep garnet-purple in color and scented of crushed black cherries, mulberries and cigar box with a waft of mossy bark. The palate is soft, juicy and innocuous with nice harmony“ James Suckling (88-89): „…A juicy red with plum and light chocolate character. Medium body, fine tannins and a fresh finish.” Decanter (86): „…Well-executed charcoal and almond oak grilling, which is helpful to the aromatics and mid palate here. The fruit keeps pace – elegant, carefully handled, but not heart quickening. Drinking Window 2023 – 2033“ Jeb Dunnuck (86-89): „… The charming, red and black fruited 2017 Château Fonréaud is a good effort that has plenty of fruit and richness, not much complexity, and a clean finish. Drink it over the coming 6-7 years” Fourcas Hosten CB - Listrac 17,5+ 14,20 16,90 Saubere, schöne Frucht, Sauerkirsche, knackig, klassisch Parker/Lisa Perrotti-Brown (85-87): „… The 2017 Fourcas-Hosten is medium to deep garnet-purple in color with a nose of warm blackberries, black raspberries and kirsch with a waft of potpourri. The palate is medium- bodied, firm and chewy with a good core of fruit and an earthy finish“ James Suckling (88-89): „…This has quite a lot of green-olive character as well as red berries. Light to medium body, fine tannins and a fresh finish” Decanter (88): „…One of the notable successes in Listrac; a lighter style than in the past two years but well sculpted. It has blackberry, rather than cassis, fruits, with good poise and subtle juicing that makes this an enjoyable glass. Early to medium drinking, it’s not a weighted and long-ageing vintage but this is extremely well handled. Drinking Window 2022 – 2034” Jeb Dunnuck (84-86): „… Notes of underbrush, dried violets, earth and light cherries emerge from the 2017 Château Fourcas Hosten. Medium-bodied, stretched and straightforward on the palate, it needs more ripeness and depth but does have some charm” Les Grands Chenes CB – Médoc kB 11,68 13,90 (Source Jeff): “…This is a 38-hectare vineyard with a mix of 70% clayey-gravel, 20% clay and limestone, and 10% sandy gravel soils. The vines are planted at a high density of 7,500 vines/ha and their average age is 41 years. The planted acreage includes 70% Merlot, 29% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 1% Cabernet Franc. Harvesting is done by hand with sorting tables placed before and after the destemmer. Fermented in a combination of
small wood and steel tank that are filled by gravity flow rather than by pumping. After a five-day coldd soal, the jucie underwent fermentation with regular cap punching. Average maceration time ran 28 to 30 days. In 2017, harvesting began on September 20th and finished on October 3rd. Yields ran 45 hls/ha. The final blend is 60% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon. Michel Rolland consults » Antonio Galloni (88-90): „… The 2017 Les Grands Chênes is really quite lovely. Deep, resonant and pliant, the 2017 is wonderfully expressive. Hints of tobacco, cedar, chocolate, smoke and licorice add nuance to this giving, open-knit Médoc from Bernard Magrez. The 2917 finishes with good substance and depth, if just a touch less volume than is the norm. Tasted two times“ Neal Martin (87-89): „… The 2017 Les Grands Chênes, which was not touched by frost, is matured in 25% new oak. It has a ripe, candied bouquet with black cherries, blueberry jam and a touch of liquorice, very glossy and polished for the vintage. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannin. There are notes of salted liquorice that permeate the dusky black fruit, but I found the finish just a little aggressive at the moment. Hopefully this will soften during its élevage“ Parker/Lisa Perrotti-Brown (88-90): „… The 2017 les Grands Chênes is medium to deep garnet-purple in color with a nose of licorice, tar, tree bark and truffles over a core of black fruits. The palate is medium-bodied and firm with a decent core of earthy fruit, finishing long and earthy“ James Suckling (92-93): „…A very pretty and tight 2017 with dark-berry, blueberry and dark-chocolate character. Medium body, solid tannins and a fresh finish” Decanter (87): „… This is well plumped up through the mid-palate, but doesn't quite manage to stretch right out to the finish line before the austerity kicks in, and you can feel the fruit is not quite at full ripeness. But this is a good, well-handled wine that fits within the style of the property. It's not as exuberant as in some years, but those oak notes do their best to add glamour. Drinking Window 2022 – 2032” Jeb Dunnuck (87-89): „… Another fresh, elegant wine in the vintage, the 2017 Château Les Grands Chênes has an exotic, green note that never leans to overt herbaceousness. Blueberries, cherries, menthol, and lots of floral notes give way to a medium-bodied, tight, fresh, nicely balanced effort that will drink nicely for 7-8 years” Maucaillou CB - Moulis 17,5-18+ 18,40 21,90 Warme, intensive Frucht, spicy, würzig, Kirchenbank, am Gaumen Bitterschoko, schöne Länge Antonio Galloni (84-87): „… The 2017 Maucaillou comes across as compact and dried out, with only modest depth and complexity. Dried cherry, white pepper, mint, sweet oak and crushed flowers add aromatic nuance. Even so, the 2017 remains on the slender side of things“ Neal Martin (84-86): „… The 2017 Maucaillou has a slightly muffled bouquet with mulberry and briary scents that need more focus and clarity. The palate is medium-bodied with light grainy tannin. On both occasions that I encountered this wine, it seemed a little green around the edges with a light, earthy and slightly animally finish“ Parker/Lisa Perrotti-Brown (88-90): „… The 2017 Maucaillou is medium to deep garnet-purple in color and scented of cedar chest and yeast extract over cassis and blackberry pie at the core. The palate is medium- bodied with good mid-palate intensity and plenty of black fruit, supported by fine-grained tannins and great freshnes“ James Suckling (88-89): „…A juicy and medium fruity red with plums and hints of walnut undertones. Firm tannins and a fresh finish. Nice touch of ripeness to this” Decanter (88): „… The oak is a touch dominant, although its cedary caress to the fruit is enjoyable, as are the soft chocolate notes. This is certainly carefully extracted, presenting a seductive contemporary feel. This estate has handled the frost impact cleverly, producing a wine that is good for early to medium drinking” Jeb Dunnuck (85-87): „… The 2017 Château Maucaillou has a charming, fruit forward style, and while not overtly powerful, it has a unique, complex bouquet, ripe tannin, and a good finish. Drink it over the coming 10- 12 years” Lamothe Bergeron CB – Haut-Médoc kB 11,26 13,40 Antonio Galloni (88-90): „… The Lamothe-Bergeron is a powerful, earthy Haut-Médoc full of personality. Grilled herbs, licorice, menthol, plum and spice notes. The Cabernet Sauvignon comes through nicely in this expressive, understand wine. This is very good“ Neal Martin (87-89): „… The 2017 Lamothe-Bergeron has light black brambly fruit laced with smoke and tobacco on the nose, though it does not have the definition of its best Haut-Médoc peers. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, light red and black fruit laced with graphite, leading to a fresh finish. It should provide satisfying drinking over several years for those that appreciate a more classically styled claret“ James Suckling (90-91): „…Medium-bodied with some good fruit and spice character. Round tannins, pretty acidity and a medium finish. Clean and precise“ Jeb Dunnuck (85-88): „… Compared to the Nove release, the 2017 Château Lamothe-Bergeron is a much more mid-weight effort that has classic red and black fruits, leafy herbs and underbrush aromas and flavors. It has medium-bodied richness, high yet integrated acidity and a good finish. It's a rock-solid bistro effort” Lanessan CB - Moulis kB 11,34 13,50 Antonio Galloni (85-87): „… The 2017 Lanessan is a pretty, soft wine that will drink well upon release. The bright red cherry, plum and spice notes are nicely woven together in this pretty, mid-weight Haut-Médoc. Missing depth. Tasted two times.“ Neal Martin (88-90): „… The 2017 Lanessan has a mixture of red and black fruit on the nose, nicely detailed with a slight mineral note that develops with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with more flesh than its
peers, especially in the middle as it gains weight with blackberry, raspberry and light cedar notes. It tapers back towards the second half but overall, this is a very respectable Lanessan for the vintage“ Parker/Lisa Perrotti-Brown (85-87): „… The 2017 Lanessan is deep garnet-purple in color with a nose of cassis, black cherries and tilled soil with hints of black pepper and bay leaves. The palate is medium-bodied, firm and lively in the mouth with just enough fruit and a chewy finish“ James Suckling (89-90): „…A tight and vibrant Haut-Medoc with plenty of acidity, fine tannins and a fresh finish. Shows a good backbone” Paloumey CB – Haut-Médoc kB 10,84 12,90 Antonio Galloni (86-88): „… The 2017 Paloumey offers lovely density in an attractive, rustic style. Leather, smoke and tobacco give the 2017 attractive savory overtones, but above all else, Paloumey is a wine to drink in the near-term, while the fruit retains its youthful juiciness. Yields are down a punishing 50%“ Neal Martin (86-88): „… The 2017 Paloumey has a perfumed bouquet with red berry fruit, rose petal, liquorice and a touch of allspice. The palate is medium-bodied with firm, slightly dry tannin. It feels fresh in the mouth even if the 2015 and 2016 showed more finesse at this same stage“ Parker/Lisa Perrotti-Brown (82-84): „… The 2017 Paloumey is medium to deep garnet-purple in color and scented of red currant jelly and blackberry preserves with touches of spice box and dried flowers. The palate is medium-bodied with firm, chewy tannins and a lively line, finishing grippy“ Winespectator (87-90): „…Offers a tangy feel, with a mix of cranberry, damson plum and pomegranate fruit laced liberally with savory and chalk notes. Shows good energy but remains a bit skinny in the end“ Decanter (88): „… Martine Cazenove is now at Château Franc Mayne in St-Émilion, with her son running Château Paloumey. They have 10ha on the plateau of Lagune that were not at all affected by the frost, and their plots on Cussac also escaped. But the ones just in front of the chateau were fully wiped out, leading to a loss of around 50% of production. Despite this, they have produced a really good wine this year, firm and expressive with notes of cedar, damson and bilberry. It's made for medium-term drinking and there's plenty to enjoy. Just a 23hl/ha yield, harvested from mid-September to the end of the month. Now organic, in conversion with Ecocert for certification by 2020. 30% new oak. Drinking Window 2022 – 2032” Potensac CB- Médoc 18+ 19,92 23,70 Sehr schöne, reife Frucht, blaubeerig und knackige Kirschen, schöne Dichte, gute Länge, Finish etwas kurz aber recht gut Antonio Galloni (88-90): „… The 2017 Potensac is a pretty wine with good depth and resonance to its dark red cherry and black stone fruit. Soft and open knit in feel, with lovely depth, Potensac is especially fruity and supple in this vintage. Even so, all the elements are very nicely balanced. creamy, but understated through to the finish. Tasted two times“ Neal Martin (87-89): „… The 2017 Potensac was picked 14 to 29 September, represents just 55% of the production this year and it was matured in 35% new oak. The bouquet gently unfolds with graphite-infused black fruit, a touch of iris developing with aeration. The oak here is nicely integrated. The palate is just a little green on the entry, though not under-ripe, armed with grippy tannin and a tarry, pencil lead-tinged finish that just needs to find more precision during the remainder of its élevage“ Parker/Lisa Perrotti-Brown (88-90): „… The 2017 Potensac is a blend of 47% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot. Medium to deep garnet-purple colored, it gives lovely red and black plums notes with touches of red currants, pencil shavings and underbrush. The palate is medium-bodied with great freshness and well-judged, chewy tannins, finishing with a lively herbal lift“ Winespectator (88-91): „…bright, high-pitched style, featuring cherry and pomegranate fruit laced with floral and chalk hints. On the leaner side, with the mineral edge holding sway on the finish, but this remains fresh and pure” James Suckling (91-92): „…A bright and vivid young red with currant, berry and floral aromas and flavors. Medium-bodied, tight and concentrated. Fine tannins” Decanter (91): „… This successful wine feels zippy and bright, with good fruit definition. I really like how this takes shape over the course of the palate, starting off with fresh, summery red fruits and slowly expanding through the palate to develop blackberry and hawthorn notes. It's not up to the standard of 2016, but sits between the '14 and '15 in my opinion. Enjoy that waft of coffee smoke on the finish. 54% of grand vin
compared to 65% in 2016, so they were being extremely selective. 1% Petit Verdot makes up the blend.
Drinking Window 2023 – 2035”
Jeb Dunnuck (87-88): „… A normal blend of 47% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Cabernet Franc (which
is slightly elevated) and the rest Petit Verdot, the 2017 Château Potensac offers a deep, ripe, nicely textured
style that’s already a joy to drink. It has bright acidity, classy notes of raspberries, spring flowers and damp
earth, medium body, and a juicy, clean finish. Still aging in 35% new French oak, it will be a good value”
Poujeaux CB - Moulis 17,5-18 24,79 29,50
Dunkle, sehr reife Frucht, Mitte schlank, am Gaumen warm und soft beginnend, dann trocken endend,
Bitterschoko im Finish
Antonio Galloni (88-91): „… The 2017 Poujeaux is soft, fruity and forward, all qualities that are best enjoyed
over the near and medium term. Super-ripe red berry, spice and floral notes are all fused together in this racy,
open-knit Moulis. Above all else, the 2017 is beautifully persistent, deep and long. Frost took out some of the
lower lying parcels. As a result, the wine is heavier on Cabernet Sauvignon and emerges from the core parcels
on the estate. In 2017, Poujeaux is 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Merlot and 7% Petit Verdot, which is more
Cabernet than in the past, a result of frost damage. Tasted two times“
Neal Martin (89-91): „… The 2017 Poujeaux has a generous, slightly smudged bouquet with cranberry,
raspberry and cedar aromas, just a little greenness in the background. The palate is medium-bodied with fine
grain tannin, dark berry fruit, black pepper and a little graphite. It just misses a sense of energy that I have
found on the finest vintages of this Moulis, although there is a pleasant sappiness that develops.“
Parker/Lisa Perrotti-Brown (83-85): „…Medium to deep garnet-purple in color, the 2017 Poujeaux has a nose of
crushed black currants, blackberries and black pepper with touches of garrigue and bay leaves. The palate is
medium-bodied with a firm, grippy structure and a slightly hollow mid-palate, finishing a little chewy“
James Suckling (91-92): „…This is very pretty for the vintage with berries, currants and hints of nutmeg.
Medium to full body. Savory finish already”
Decanter (92): „… Right from the nose this has rich, deep cassis and dark fruit notes, as well as a lovely juicy
vibrancy through the palate. There are firm tannins that have some vibrancy to them. Although it’s not as
persistent in structure as in 2016 and 2015, this is an extremely successful wine in the 2017 vintage. Aged in
33% new oak. A yield of 26hl/h, so there will be reduced volumes – an estimated 140,000 bottles this year.
Fortunately the gravelly heart of the vineyard was not affected by the frost. There is an austerity to the tannins
but it's still hugely enjoyable. Drinking Window 2021 – 2032”
Jeb Dunnuck (88-90): „… From the Moulis region in the southern part of the Médoc, the 2017 Château
Poujeaux has a classic, pretty, red fruit-driven style as well as lots of spice and floral nuances, medium body,
light tannin, and terrific purity. It’s quite likely the best wine in the appellation”
Sociando Mallet Haut-Médoc kB 25,63 30,50
Antonio Galloni (89-91): „… The 2017 Sociando Mallet offers quite a bit of character and personality. In this
tasting, the 2017 comes across as quite ripe and dense. Black stone fruit, chocolate, new leather, licorice and
spice are packed into this potent, richly constituted Haut-Médoc. The 2017 is not exactly subtle, but it does
pack a serious punch in a hearty yet pleasing style“
Neal Martin (89-92): „… The 2017 Sociando Mallet has quite a high-toned bouquet with macerated black
cherries, boysenberry jam and top end violet scents. This is a more showy Sociando than of late. The palate is
medium-bodied with soft tannin, moderate depth, a more refined wine than I was expecting with a smooth,
supple blackberry and bilberry finish laced with white pepper. There is a word I never expected to use apropos
Sociando Mallet...gentle“
Parker/Lisa Perrotti-Brown (87-89): „… The 2017 Sociando-Mallet is medium to deep garnet-purple in color
with a spicy nose over a red plums and red currants core plus a waft of underbrush. The palate is medium-
bodied with a well-judged, approachable structure and plenty of freshness, finishing fruity“
James Suckling (91-92): „…This shows focus and brightness for a 2017 with firm and silky tannins and a vivid
character. Fine and polished texture. Beautiful. Close to the 2015”
Decanter (90): „… One of the most iconic names in Haut-Médoc, this has depth, linearity and good fruit. It is
well-handled, with slatey minerality providing a springboard for the cassis fruits, but finishes a little too
rapidly. A touch of Cabernet Franc adds a floral touch to the near-even pairing of Merlot and Cabernet
Sauvignon. I'd still go with the 2016, but this will be ready to enjoy sooner“
Belgrave 5ème Cru Classé 18+-18,5 23,95 28,50
Saubere, frische, klasse Frucht, schöne Nase, komplex, sehr gute
Struktur, lang, sehr gute Tannine, klassisch, sehr gut!!
Gleich ist es geschafft. Die letzte Verkostung 2017er Bordeaux.
Antonio Galloni (88-90): „… The 2017 Belgrave is laced with inky dark
fruit, charcoal, spice, new leather, earthiness, licorice and crème de
cassis. Super-expressive and fleshy, the 2017 is endowed with plenty
of character and personality“
Neal Martin (87-89): „… The 2017 Belgrave offers crisp blackberry and
tobacco scents on the nose, a touch of gravel developing with time.
The palate is medium-bodied with dry tannin, masculine and rather
austere towards the finish where I would have liked more flesh. A
second showing towards the end of my tasting did indicate a wine
developing more fruité towards the finish and my score reflects anticipated amelioration during its barrel
maturation“
Winespectator (88-91): „…This has a fleshy feel, with red and black currant fruit melding nicely with singed
vanilla and tobacco notes. Offers modest tannins and fresh acidity”
James Suckling (90-91): „…This is very cabernet sauvignon with a tight palate of ripe fruit and firm and chewy
tannins. Medium-to full-bodied, compacted and driven. All the merlot was hurt by the frost here. Juicy finish”
Decanter (91): „… This displays a fairly high level of oak toasting, but grilled cedar rather than vanilla in
character, making it more classically Médoc. It is sombre, tightly-knit and handles the mid-palate well. It's not
exuberant but has menthol and slate notes, providing good Médoc signature. It offers enjoyment but will take
its time to relax. Drinking Window 2024 – 2036”
Jeb Dunnuck (87-89): „… Offering lots of black (and some blue) fruits, charcoal, and graphite, the inky-colored
2017 Château Belgrave is firm and tannic on the palate, with nicely integrated acidity. I’d like a touch more
flesh on these bones, but it’s certainly a serious effort that I suspect will benefit from short-term cellaring”
Cantemerle 5ème Cru Classé 17-17,5 23,11 27,50
Schöne Nase, am Gaumen etwas offen, trockene Tannine
Antonio Galloni (89-92): „… The 2017 Cantemerle is deep, fleshy and wonderfully expressive. Savory herb,
tobacco, menthol, licorice, dark red cherry, smoke and incense run through this super-expressive, pliant Haut-
Médoc Grand Cru Classé. All the elements simply meld together effortlessly. Rose petal, lavender and a host
of floral notes add perfume to the finish. The 2017 should be one of the finer values of the year. Tasted two
times“
Neal Martin (88-90): „… The 2017 Cantemerle has quite a sultry bouquet with blackberry, damp earth and
tobacco scents that reluctantly unfurl in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannin that frame
quite voluminous black dusky fruit. There is a powdery texture to this Cantemerle, quite long on the finish
even if it is missing the refinement of a top vintage“
Parker/Lisa Perrotti-Brown (89-91): „… The deep garnet-purple colored 2017 Cantemerle gives up lovely
crushed black and red currants notes with hints of kirsch, underbrush and cinnamon stick plus a waft of
roses. Medium-bodied with plenty of freshness and a fine-grained frame, it is elegantly expressed and finishes
with beautiful harmony.“
Winespectator (87-90): „…Lively, featuring a slightly crisp hint to the red currant and pomegranate fruit, with
savory and iron notes. Open-knit finish“
James Suckling (93-94): „…This shows a polished yet encompassing structure of solid tannins, which support
flavors of mulberries and black cherries. Medium-bodied, velvety with rather chewy. Long finish”
Decanter (92): „… This is a very attractive wine that has been carefully extracted in this vintage. It has a
damson fruit expression with real elegance and restrained power, followed by a dusting of cocoa powder and
cinnamon (more evident on the second tasting). A little shorter than in 2016, but full of elegance and fine
tannins. Drinking Window 2022 – 2038”
Jeb Dunnuck (87-89): „… Impressive notes of cassis, blueberries, violets and cedary spice emerge from the
2017 Château Cantemerle, which shows the focused, mid-weight, yet balanced style of the vintage. It's nicely
balanced, moderately concentrated, and has a good finish”
La Tour Carnet 4ème Cru Classé 17,5-18 24,37 29,00
Krätige Nase, schwarze Power, spicy, Zinfandel-Noten, am Gamen etwas gezehrt, gepresste
Tannine, bitter, etwas kurz
Antonio Galloni (88-91): „… The 2017 La Tour Carnet Blanc is crisp, dry and inviting, with tons of
character and personality. Bright citrus and floral notes are nicely delineated in this Sauvignon
Blanc-dominated white“
Neal Martin (88-90): „… The 2017 La Tour Carnet is a blend of 60% Merlot, 37% Cabernet
Sauvignon and 3% Cabernet Franc picked between 21 September and 5 October, matured in 30%
new oak barrel for 16 months. It needs some encouragemen t from the glass but eventually
reveals scents of blackberry, boysenberry jam and a faint hint of orange rind. The palate is
medium-bodied with slightly dry tannin that grip the mouth. There is fine purity and detail here,
but it is resolutely linear and strict, and I find the finish needing a soupçon more fleshiness, just
to offset the firmness of the tannins“
Parker/Lisa Perrotti-Brown (87-89): „… The deep garnet-purple colored 2017 la Tour Carnet opens
with scents of cassis, plums and cherries with nuances of earth, tar and pencil shavings.
Medium-bodied, it's just a little thin and chewy in the mouth but provides interesting fruit layers
and pleasing harmony“
Winespectator (88-91): „…A clean, direct, racy wine, with light mineral and savory notes amid a
core of cassis fruit. Shows good length and tension”
James Suckling (92-93): „…Very tight and polished with pretty density and tannins. Medium to full
body, good length and excellent balance. Remake of 2014”
Decanter (92): „… This is holding its own in terms of quality of tannins and weight. It has a lot going for it - a
classic Médoc signature that offers juicy, well filled out cassis and tobacco notes. I love what the Magrez team
have been doing at La Tour Carnet in recent years, and this keeps up the pace. Drinking Window 2022 – 2038”
Jeb Dunnuck (89-92): „… The 2017 Château La Tour Carnet is another rock-solid wine in the lineup from the
team of Bernard Magrez at Pape Clement. Loads of plum and blue fruits, leafy herbs, and earth all flow to a
plump, medium to full-bodied red that has tons of sweet fruit, a broad, expansive texture, and sweet tannin. It's
well worth seeking out and dishes out more pleasure than most in the vintage”
La Lagune 3ème Cru Classé 17,5-18 36,05 42,90
Etwas vordergründige, intensive Frucht, frisch am Gaumen, hellbeerig, saftig, gefällig, Mitte schlank, kräftige
Tannine
Neal Martin (90-92): „… The 2017 La Lagune was picked from 12 September until 30 September at 31hl/ha,
matured in 50% new oak. It has a very clean and pure bouquet, quite floral in style, with scents of raspberry
confit, crushed stone, a touch of mint and pressed flowers. This is precise and focused, one of the most
refined bouquet that I have encountered on a La Lagune at this early stage. The palate is medium-bodied with
slightly chalky tannin on the entry that presage a tensile, mineral-driven La Lagune. There is almost a flint-like
element to this wine, like the nose, the palate extremely precise with a sustained Pauillac-inspired finish with
pencil lead on the aftertaste“
Parker/Lisa Perrotti-Brown (88-90): „… The deep garnet-purple colored 2017 la Lagune has wonderful black
raspberries, black cherries and mulberries scents with an earthy undercurrent and a waft of bay leaves. The
palate is medium-bodied with lovely freshness, a soft texture and plenty of poise.“
James Suckling (89-90): „…Slightly reductive and herbal at the moment, but shows a good concentration of
fruit and relatively ripe tannins”
Decanter (92): „… This has clear damson flesh to the fruit, a good plummy wine with an elegance and
freshness to the tannins. It's good, linear with a precision that you don't find everywhere. This is still not quite
at the 2015/16 level of completeness, but delivers from start to finish, and is a wine that should age well. It has
a 2001 type of elegance and lift with a tension to the tannins that gives confidence in its ageing ability. Now
certified organic, in conversion for biodynamics. Drinking Window 2035 – 2038”
Jeb Dunnuck (88-91): „… A brilliant Haut-Médoc, the 2017 Château La Lagune has impressive density and
depth as well as medium body, a straight, tight, focused texture, a big mid-palate, and classic dark fruits,
tobacco, and earth aromas and flavors. It’s well worth seeking out and will keep for two decades”
St.-Estephe
Beau-Site Cru Bourgeois 17,5+-18 14,29 17,00
Sehr schöne, aromatische Nase, auch am Gaumen schöne Wärme
ausstrahlend, gute Struktur, lang, schlank und elegant auslaufend
Wenn man nicht mit trinkreifen Weinen Erfahrung sammelt, kann man bei
einem Fassmuster kaum abschätzen, wie groß das Potential des Weines ist.
Wir halten uns daran. 10 Jahre für Beau Site? Kein Problem.
Antonio Galloni (88-91): „… The 2017 Beau-Site offers terrific density and
breadth. Inky dark fruit, grilled herb and licorice flesh out in this resonant,
pleasantly rustic Saint-Estèphe“
Neal Martin (86-88): „… The 2017 Beau-Site, owned by Borie Manoux
(Batailley, Trottevieille inter alia) was cropped at 49hl/ha. It has a pleasant
raspberry and crushed strawberry bouquet with touches of sous-bois and
bay leaf coming through with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with
edgy tannins and attractive black fruit but it just tails off a little prematurely
when I would like to see more flesh and depth. Hopefully it will gain weight
during barrel maturation.“
Parker/Lisa Perrotti-Brown (86-88): „… A blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon,
25% Merlot, 3% Petit Verdot and 2% Cabernet Franc, the 2017 Beau Site is
medium garnet-purple colored with lovely notions of black raspberries, red
and black cherries and mulberries with touches of underbrush and black
truffles. The palate is medium-bodied, firm and chewy with a lively backbone
and savory finish.“
James Suckling (91-92): „…Pretty spice and dark berries with hazelnuts and
walnuts. Medium to full body, tight and integrated tannins and flavorful
finish. A beauty. Lovely center palate”
Decanter (91): „…On an outcrop just behind Calon-Ségur, this property is
owned by the Castéja family, with slopes facing east towards the Garonne
river. This is a little tight for the vintage, serious and not quite as juicy as some I have tasted. It's still
extremely well-constructed, dripping with cassis notes and floral edging. It's aged in 50% new oak, but the
light toast gives a smoked edge without overpowering it. This is usually excellent value, and there's no need to
wait too long before drinking. Consultants are Axel Marchal and Valérie Lavigne. Drinking Window 2022 –
2034„
Le Boscq Cru Bourgeois 17,5+-18+ 19,83 23,60
Sehr schöne, frische, dunkle Beerennase, kräftige Tannine, charmant beginnend und tanninkräftiges Finale
Antonio Galloni (88-90): „… In 2017, Le Boscq is decidedly fruity, with fewer of the aromatic nuances it often
shows, but all the elements are very nicely balanced. Inky and racy, with terrific density, Le Boscq has the
potential to be an overachiever“
Neal Martin (91-93): „… The 2017 Le Boscq has an impressive bouquet with plenty of blackberry, raspberry
and smoke aromas that are detailed and neatly integrated with the oak. The palate is medium-bodied with
supple tannin, well judged acidity, nicely balanced with a fresh and sophisticated finish. This is a Saint-
Estèphe that performed extremely well in 2017 and perchance is one of its hidden gems“Parker/Lisa Perrotti-Brown (86-88): „… The 2017 le Boscq is deep garnet-purple with a nose of violets, dark
chocolate and plum preserves with wafts of wild blueberries and black pepper. The palate is medium-bodied,
chewy and lively with decent mid-palate fruit and an earthy finish“
Winespectator (88-91): „…A solid effort, with a ripe edge to the kirsch and blackberry fruit, carried by nicely
embedded acidity. Sweet tobacco notes and an echo of lilac run through the finish”
James Suckling (91-92): „…This shows a focus and pretty density with finesse and balance at the same time.
Medium body and a bright finish. Serious for the vintage. No effect from frost apparently”
Capbern Cru Bourgeois 17,5+-18 16,72 19,90
Sehr schöne, frische Frucht, helle Beeren, knackig, schlanke Mitte,
insgesamt wieder sehr schön, Mandeln im Finish, sehr gute Tannine
Antonio Galloni (88-90): „… The 2017 Capbern is soft, pliant and inviting.
This pretty, gracious Saint-Estèphe has plenty to offer, especially over the
near and medium term. Floral notes give lift to the bright red cherry fruit. Soft
contours and mid-weight structure add to the wine's immediacy. Tasted two
times“
Neal Martin (89-91): „… The 2017 Capbern was cropped at 43.5hl/ha and
matured in 60% new oak. It has a fresh, lively cranberry and blackcurrant-
scented bouquet, a little savory in style with hints of Japanese nori
(seaweed). The palate is nicely structured with a keen thread of acidity. There
is a little compactness on the entry but it gently unfolds towards the finish
that exerts subtle grip. It is the precision rather than the power that defines
this Capbern and if released at similar prices to previous vintages, could be
one of the must-buys of 2017“
Parker/Lisa Perrotti-Brown (85-87): „… The tentative blend for the 2017
Capbern is 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 39% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc and 3%
Petit Verdot. Deep garnet-purple colored, it gives exuberant red cherries,
blackberries and black raspberries on the nose with touches of bay leaves and dusty soil. The palate is
medium-bodied, elegant and fresh with chewy tannins and an earthy finish“
Winespectator (88-91): „…Fresh and juicy, with pomegranate and damson plum fruit laced liberally with lilac,
savory and pebble hints”
James Suckling (91-92): „…Dark berries and crushed stones. Medium body, firm and silky tannins and a fresh
finish. Tightness”
Decanter (89): „… The Merlots and Cabernet Francs suffered a little from the rains of September, but the early
season and lack of frost damage helped overcome this, with a normal yield of 43.5hl/ha. Capbern has an ample
mid-palate with savoury but fleshy blueberry and blackberry fruits, and mint-edged charcoal - it's well put
together. 3% Petit Verdot makes up the blend given here. Ageing for 18 months in 60% new oak. 3.8pH.
Drinking Window 2024 – 2036”
Jeb Dunnuck (90-92): „… This large estate has turned out a classic wine in 2017 that just screams of Saint-
Estèphe. Checking in as a rough blend of 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 39% Merlot, and the rest equal parts
Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, it will spend 18 months in 60% new French oak. Textbook Saint Estèphe dark
fruits, damp earth, and tobacco leaf all flow to a medium-bodied, rounded, nicely textured wine that has the
cooler, perfumed, aromatics style of the vintage, good mid-palate depth, and gorgeous purity of fruit. Classic
Bordeaux lovers will dig this”
Lilian Ladouys Cru Bourgeois kB 16,39 19,50
Antonio Galloni (86-88): „… The 2017 Lilian Ladouys is hearty and rustic, with good depth but not a ton of
finesse. Wild cherry, earthiness, tobacco and smoke develop in the glass. The 2017 is certainly a good wine,
especially for its very modest price, but it is not the overachiever it can be. Tasted two times.“
Neal Martin (89-91): „… The 2017 Lilian Ladouys was picked from 20 to 29 September and matured in 40% new
oak. It has a perfumed, floral bouquet with blue and red fruit, a subtle chalkiness in the background. The palate
is medium-bodied with grainy tannin, pinched on the mid-palate with a tightly wound, slightly austere finish.
Not bad but it will need three or four years in bottle. I would like more charm to develop and indeed, when I
encountered this growth towards the end of my trip, I felt that it was beginning to show more personality“
Parker/Lisa Perrotti-Brown (88-90): „… The 2017 Lilian Ladouys is deep garnet-purple colored and very
plummy on the nose with hints of red and black currants, dusty soil and Marmite toast. It's soft, medium-
bodied and plush with plenty of juicy fruit and good length. The blend is currently 50% Merlot, 43% Cabernet
Sauvignon and 7% Petit Verdot“
Winespectator (88-91): „… Lively, with a mix of red and black cherry fruit lined with lightly chalky tannins and
flickers of savory and lilac. Has a touch of toast and light twinge of austerity at the very end”
Decanter (91): „… From the same family who own claux - and, I believe, new owners of several additional St-
Estèphe estates. This has bright, juicy fruit in an unfussy and disarming style. It's a very nice wine, and good
value too, with plenty to enjoy: uncomplicated berry fruits with touches of cherry and cedar oak. Another St-
Estèphe win in 2017. 40% new oak. Yield 50hl/ha. Drinking Window 2022 – 2034”
Jeb Dunnuck (90-92): „… This Saint-Estèphe estate continues to produce a ripe, sexy wine from their 45-
hectare vineyard located on sandy, gravelly, clay soils. The 2017 is a blend of 50% Merlot, 43% Cabernet
Sauvignon and the rest Petit Verdot, all aging in 40% new oak. It’s a plump, rounded, sexy beauty that boasts a
deep purple color as well as loads of ripe cherry and currant fruits, underbrush, and floral nuances. It can be
drunk on release or cellared for 10-12 years.”You can also read
