FINE WINE & PREMIUM SPIRITS NOVEMBER & DECEMBER 2019 - LCBO.com
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FINE WINE & PREMIUM SPIRITS
NOVEMBER & DECEMBER 2019
1 VINTAGES
Hungary’s Tihany Abbey, est. 1005.
ON THE COVER: Vineyards at Saint-Émilion city centre.
2 VINTAGES
Discover our monthly Classics Collection
of top wines from the world’s finest producers.
View the current collection and order
at lcbo.com/vintages-classics.
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Classics Collection
The Vintages Classics Collection puts the world’s finest wines and spirits into your cellar. From Burgundy
grands crus to sky-high single-vineyard Argentine expressions and everything in between, the Classics
Collection offers an exciting assortment of the best, most iconic, most collectible wines from top regions,
stellar vintages, legendary producers and more. Whether you’re a neophyte or a seasoned collector,
these curated selections are sure to satisfy.
November 2019 December 2019
6 FRANCE 22 FRANCE
10 AUSTRIA 26 AUSTRIA
10 GERMANY 26 GERMANY
10 HUNGARY 27 GREECE
11 ITALY 27 HUNGARY
13 PORTUGAL 27 ITALY
13 SPAIN 30 PORTUGAL
14 CANADA 31 SPAIN
15 AUSTRALIA 32 CANADA
15 NEW ZEALAND 32 AUSTRALIA
16 SOUTH AFRICA 33 NEW ZEALAND
16 ARGENTINA 34 SOUTH AFRICA
17 CHILE 34 ARGENTINA
17 USA 34 CHILE
19 FORTIFIED WINE 35 USA
36 FORTIFIED WINE
38 PRODUCT SUMMARY
46 ORDERING INFORMATION 42 PRODUCT SUMMARY
46 ORDERING INFORMATION
ONLINE ORDERING PLEASE NOTE:
For each Classics Collection, we do our best to
November Collection: starts November 7 at 8:30 a.m.
secure enough stock to satisfy all customer orders.
December Collection: starts December 5 at 8:30 a.m. We regret that sometimes customer demand exceeds
See page 46 for ordering details. supply. Opening inventory for each Classics Collection
will be available at lcbo.com/vintages-classics one
LCBO.COM/VINTAGES-CLASSICS week before online ordering begins.
First-come, first-served. Shop early for best selection.
Prices in this catalogue are subject to change without notice. Vintages cannot assume responsibility
for typographical errors. All prices include applicable container deposit and HST.
4 VINTAGES OPPOSITE: The Sarntal Alps tower over vineyards
on the Ritten in South Tyrol, Italy.
ONLINE ORDERING
STARTS NOVEMBER 7
NOVEMBER
CLASSICS COLLECTION
THE CLASSICS COLLECTION • NOVEMBER 2019
FRANCE CHÂTEAU BRANAIRE-DUCRU 2011
4e cru, AC Saint-Julien
Score: 93-96 (Stephen Tanzer, vinous.
com, Jan. 2018)
Another fine showing from TASTING NOTE: With dense fruit and 577635 (XD) 750 mL $310.00
France: over 30 highly rated wines a powerful, complex structure, this is
from some of the most famous one of the best wines from this chateau.
regions in the world. A banquet of Blackberries, black plums and a rich, DOMAINE DE BELLENE VIEILLES
opportunity for the connoisseur VIGNES NUITS-SAINT-GEORGES
generous character are all here, along with
and collector. 2015
fine tannins. Drink this great success AC
from 2018. Cellar Selection.
Score: 94 (Roger Voss, Wine Enthusiast, TASTING NOTE: The old vines in this
BORDEAUX Feb. 1, 2014) densely planted vineyard date back
67 years. This wine has great concen-
RED WINE 300608 (D) 750 mL $125.00 tration, tannins and juicy red fruits. Its
structure emphasizes the straightforward
SAINT-ÉMILION DE QUINTUS 2016 CHÂTEAU LE CAILLOU 2000 character of Nuits-St.-Georges, so it will
AC Saint-Émilion Grand Cru Classé AC Pomerol take time to mature. Drink from 2023.
(Domaine Clarence Dillon) Score: 92 (Roger Voss, Wine Enthusiast,
The 2000 Château Le Caillou is sourced
Feb. 1, 2018)
TASTING NOTE: A very rich, plush and from vines that average 30 years of
ripe array of violets and plums on the age planted in sandy and clay soils. The 458125 (XD) 750 mL $79.00
nose that lead to a flavorful palate with vineyard is predominantly Merlot with
abundant, fresh and ripe blackberries Cabernet Franc providing the balance. This
MARCHAND-TAWSE
and spicy plums. The third wine of Quintus. will deliver a pure, stylish experience GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN 2015
Try from 2022. emphasizing rich, ripe dark fruit accented AC
Score: 92 (James Suckling, jamessuckling. by deftly integrated oak spices. (Pascal Marchand)
com, Feb. 3, 2019) 11722 (XD) 750 mL $86.00 TASTING NOTE: Here the nose is
11720 (XD) 750 mL $50.00 decidedly earthier with notes of forest
floor, humus and game adding breadth
CHÂTEAU GISCOURS 2015 BURGUNDY to the largely dark berry fruit-scented
3e cru, AC Margaux aromas. There is very fine volume to the
CÔTE DE NUITS rich, powerful and mouth coating flavors
TASTING NOTE: This firm wine shows the that terminate in a serious, youthfully
tannic side of the vintage. Those tannins RED WINE
austere and well-balanced finale. Despite
are dusty, enriched with black-currant being relatively tightly wound today there
fruits and a dense backdrop. The wine is MAUME BY DOMAINE TAWSE is so much sap that this could be drunk
concentrated and elegant, very ageworthy MAZIS-CHAMBERTIN with pleasure young. Again, worth
and not likely to be ready before 2025. GRAND CRU 2016 considering especially for value. Drink:
Cellar Selection. AC 2022+. Outstanding.
Score: 97 (Roger Voss, Wine Enthusiast, TASTING NOTE: (the yield of 30 Score: 89-91 (Allen Meadows, burghound.
Feb. 1, 2018) hectoliters per hectare was down slightly com, Jan. 15, 2017)
10641 (XD) 750 mL $195.00 from normal; harvested on October 4 286450 (XD) 750 mL $69.00
and vinified with 50% whole clusters;
almost half of these vines were planted
CHÂTEAU PRIEURÉ-LICHINE 2015 in 1929): Bright, dark red. Wild, multi-
4e cru, AC Margaux dimensional aromas of dark raspberry,
TASTING NOTE: Some very ripe dark- truffle, black olive, game and espresso;
plum aromas with a wealth of sweet spices a real essence of Gevrey. Wonderfully
and earthy notes. The palate has an sweet but firm on the palate, conveying
impressively rich, suave and smooth core outstanding definition to its intense flavors
of black fruit with a powerful palate of black cherry, spices, minerals and
that delivers concentrated and intense game. Combines compelling depth of
structure. This is superb Margaux. Try flavor with a powerful tannic backbone and
from 2022. great length. I was especially struck by
Score: 96 (James Suckling, jamessuckling. how much cleaner (i.e., brett-free) this wine
com, Feb. 2, 2018) was than many older vintages of the
10646 (XD) 750 mL $96.00 bottling – and with no loss of aromatic
range or personality.
6 VINTAGES
THE CLASSICS COLLECTION • NOVEMBER 2019
STÉPHANE BROCARD DOMAINE AU PIED DU MONT
CLOSERIE DES ALISIERS CHAUVE LE CHARMOIS
GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN 1ER CRU 2015
LES CORBEAUX 1ER CRU 2015 AC
AC
TASTING NOTE: This smoky, generously
TASTING NOTE: This powerful wine is structured wine comes from the Picard
both dense and rich. Its tannins and acidity family’s Saint-Aubin vineyard closest to
bode well for aging, while the red plum Chassagne-Montrachet. It has swathes
and berry fruits add to promise for the of ripe fruits balanced by acidity. Rich
future. From a parcel close to the series of and powerful for a wine from this
Grand Cru vineyards, the wine shows the appellation, it is developing well. Drink
density of this fine vintage and its potential. from 2021.
Drink from 2024. Cellar Selection. Score: 92 (Roger Voss, Wine Enthusiast,
Score: 95 (Roger Voss, Wine Enthusiast, Oct. 1, 2018)
Feb. 1, 2018)
12040 (XD) 750 mL $62.00
666909 (XD) 750 mL $107.00
WHITE WINE
CÔTE DE BEAUNE CHABLIS
WHITE WINE
RED WINE CHÂTEAU DE SANTENAY
PULIGNY-MONTRACHET LES
FOLATIÈRES 1ER CRU 2016 DOMAINE WILLIAM
BOUCHARD PÈRE & FILS AC FÈVRE BOUGROS CHABLIS
SANTENAY 2017 GRAND CRU 2016
AC TASTING NOTE: From one of the best
known of Puligny-Montrachet’s premier AC
To the delight (and relief) of consumers cru vineyards, this wine has plenty of TASTING NOTE: One of two Bougros
and producers alike, Burgundy’s 2017 intensity and texture. The chalky minerality bottlings chez Fèvre, this comes from
vintage was the largest harvest in the offers excellent aging potential. Toast a Grand Cru that is often underestimated,
last 10 years. The reds are supple, and rich yellow fruits will come together partly because few big names have
charming and expressively fruit-driven well as the wine matures. Drink from 2023. vines there. Showing a note of gunflinty
and are characterized by their immediate Cellar Selection. reduction, it’s a subtly wooded expression
approachability. This one from Bouchard Score: 94 (Roger Voss, Wine Enthusiast, of its terroir with a salinity and focus
has always been defined by the purity of Oct. 1, 2018) that’s more common in neighbouring
its fruit, and in 2017 this characteristic Preuses. Classy winemaking. Drink date:
will make for a truly stunning Santenay. 10385 (XD) 750 mL $149.00
2018-2026.
684647 (XD) 750 mL $38.00 Score: 95 (Tim Atkin, MW, timatkin.com,
DOMAINE BOUCHARD PÈRE & FILS Burgundy 2016 Special Report 2018)
CHEVALIER-MONTRACHET
DOMAINE TAWSE FRÉMIETS GRAND CRU 2016 941229 (XD) 750 mL $96.00
VOLNAY 1ER CRU 2016 AC
AC
TASTING NOTE: The 2016 Chevalier- LOUIS MOREAU VAULIGNOT
TASTING NOTE: Cassis flower style Montrachet Grand Cru has a detailed CHABLIS 1ER CRU 2014
reduction. There is a really lovely mouth- bouquet with attractive scents of almond AC
feel to the sleek, intense and beautifully and white chocolate tincturing the TASTING NOTE: An arch-classic, firm
well-detailed middle weight flavors that citrus fruit. The palate is well balanced and steely, highly stony, elegant and
brim with minerality on the gorgeously with crisp acidity, quite cohesive and refined Chablis 1er cru here from the
refined finish that delivers sneaky good understated at first (like the Domaine reliable house of L. Moreau. I love the
length. Textbook Frémiets. Drink: 2026+. Leflaive tasted earlier that day) with a balanced, ripe acids and the classic
Outstanding. sappy and convincing finish that is surfeit regional character in a finessed, open
Score: 91-93 (Allen Meadows, burghound. with minerals and a hint of tangerine. style. Although this could be enjoyed
com, Jan. 15, 2018) This is a very impressive, sophisticated now, I’d wait another couple of years for
577197 (XD) 750 mL $95.00 Chevalier-Montrachet that I actually have a complete expression, or hold until the
a preference for over the La Cabotte this mid-twenties. Tasted October 2016.
year. Drink date: 2020-2045. Score: 92 (John Szabo, MS, winealign.
Score: 94-96 (Neal Martin, robertparker. com, Nov. 2, 2016)
com, Dec. 29, 2017)
525386 (XD) 750 mL $42.00
88708 (XD) 750 mL $466.00
7 VINTAGES
THE CLASSICS COLLECTION • NOVEMBER 2019
BEAUJOLAIS Best from 2018 through 2024.
136 cases made.
sweet floral aromas, hints of thyme and
rosemary and bold cherry fruit. Full-bodied
RED WINE Score: 91 (James Molesworth, and creamy-velvety in texture, it’s a hugely
winespectator.com, June 15, 2017) seductive mouthful of wine that I found
343665 (XD) 750 mL $70.00 difficult to spit. If it emerges from the
LAURENT PERRACHON & FILS bottling process looking like this, buyers
LES VIGNES CENTENAIRES will have huge smiles on their faces.
JULIÉNAS 2016 Drink date: 2020-2035.
AC SOUTHERN RHÔNE Score: 96-98 (Joe Czerwinski,
TASTING NOTE: This small parcel, under RED WINE robertparker.com, Aug. 31, 2018)
two acres, is still planted with low-yielding, 579581 (XD) 750 mL $83.00
century-old vines. Its density and richness LES HAUTS DE MONTMIRAIL
are impressive. This is enhanced by the GIGONDAS 2017
wood aging that adds spice as well as AC DOMAINE GRAND VENEUR
hints of toast to the ripe black fruits. With VIEILLES VIGNES
TASTING NOTE: Full-bodied and softly CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 2016
this concentration, the wine needs time
dusty, the 2017 Gigondas les Hauts AC
and shouldn’t be drunk before 2020.
de Montmirail presents a dark mélange of
Editors’ Choice. TASTING NOTE: The 2016 Châteauneuf-
cassis and blueberry fruit. It’s silky and
Score: 93 (Roger Voss, Wine Enthusiast, du-Pape Vieilles Vignes is up with the
elegant, with a dusting of dried herbs and
March 1, 2019) crème de la crème of the vintage and in
spice on the finish. The oak has been
11762 (XD) 750 mL $34.00 dialed back this vintage, allowing more the same league as the perfect 2010.
detail to shine through. It rivals the les Awesome notes of blackberries, crème
Secrets bottling at this point. Tasted twice, de cassis, charred meats, licorice, and
RHÔNE with consistent notes. Drink date: 2020- violets all soar from the glass. It’s powerful,
opulent, and structured, with building
2030.
tannin, a huge mid-palate, and a block-
NORTHERN RHÔNE Score: 94-96 (Joe Czerwinski,
buster finish, yet it never loses its sense
robertparker.com, Oct. 31, 2018)
RED WINE of purity and elegance. It’s an incredible
742551 (XD) 750 mL $56.00 achievement from this estate. The blend
is 45% Grenache, 45% Mourvèdre, and
PHILIPPE & VINCENT JABOULET
NOUVELÈRE CROZES-HERMITAGE CHÂTEAU FORTIA CUVÉE DU BARON 10% Syrah, all aged in 55% new French
2015 CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 2016 oak. Drink date: 2020-2036.
AP AC Score: 100 (Jeb Dunnuck, jebdunnuck.
TASTING NOTE: Similarly colored to the com, Aug. 28, 2018)
TASTING NOTE: Right now the full-bodied,
tannic 2015 Crozes Hermitage Nouvelere traditional cuvée, the 2016 Châteauneuf- 490060 (XD) 750 mL $123.00
seems a touch stemmy and herbal but if du-Pape Cuvée du Baron has rocking
those notes properly integrate over time, it aromas and flavors of garrigue, kirsch
may ultimately merit a higher score. Plum liqueur, dried flowers, and spice. Deep,
medium to full-bodied, elegant and
ALSACE
and black olive notes express ripe fruit but
those drying notes on the finish demand weightless on the palate, it’s the finest WHITE WINE
time in the cellar. If this old-vine fruit ages example of this cuvée since the 2003.
as well as those Thalabert bottlings did in The blend is 55% Grenache, 30% Syrah,
and 15% Mourvèdre. Despite the high DOMAINE ZIND HUMBRECHT
the past, it will be a fine purchase. Drink CLOS WINDSBUHL RIESLING 2016
date: 2021-2035. Syrah component, it just screams
AC Alsace
Score: 91+ (Joe Czerwinski, robertparker. Grenache. Drink before 2028.
Score: 94 (Jeb Dunnuck, jebdunnuck.com, TASTING NOTE: Still rather closed with
com, Dec. 29, 2017)
Aug. 28, 2018) only hints of candied citrus and toast on
635680 (XD) 750 mL $36.00 the nose, but this has the concentration
959999 (XD) 750 mL $47.00
and profundity of a top grand cru. Tightly
LAURUS HERMITAGE 2014 wound and so, it needs some time to
AC DOMAINE DE LA CHARBONNIÈRE unfurl. But it already has a stunningly long
(Gabriel Meffre) LES HAUTES BRUSQUIÈRES and pure finish. Better from 2019 and
CUVÉE SPÉCIALE has long-term aging potential beyond that.
TASTING NOTE: Grippy, with an earthy CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 2016 Made from biodynamically grown grapes.
edge complementing the dried currant, AC Score: 96 (James Suckling, jamessuckling.
fig paste, chestnut leaf and warm tobacco com, May 28, 2018)
TASTING NOTE: A prodigious effort, the
notes. The finish lets juniper and alder
2016 Chateauneuf du Pape Les Hautes 716068 (XD) 750 mL $94.00
details take over, keeping this in the rustic
Brusquieres Cuvee Speciale was yet to
camp despite the solid depth and flesh.
be bottled during my June visit. It offers up
8 VINTAGES
THE CLASSICS COLLECTION • NOVEMBER 2019
CRISTAL BRUT CHAMPAGNE 2009 MAILLY LES ÉCHANSONS
AC GRAND CRU CHAMPAGNE 2008
(Louis Roederer) AC
TASTING NOTE: The latest incarnation TASTING NOTE: The producer held this
of this famous Champagne now comes wine back from release because it came
from Roederer’s own vineyards, a good from such a great ageworthy vintage – this
portion of which are run on biodynamic is well worth the wait. With the wonderful
lines. This still-young wine has great depth richness of the 75% Pinot Noir domina-
and richness, a beautiful balance between ting, this is a balanced wine, just hinting at
ripe fruit and crisp texture that make it toastiness, with concentrated ripe apple
alive, crisp and bright. As it matures, it will fruits melding into the texture of the wine.
deepen and become even more intense. Ranks #30 in Top 100 Cellar Selections
Drink now if you must, but preferably wait of 2017.
until 2019. Ranked #38 in Top 100 Cellar Score: 96 (Roger Voss, Wine Enthusiast,
Selections of 2016. Dec. 1, 2017)
Score: 97 (Roger Voss, Wine Enthusiast, 448688 (XD) 750 mL $169.00
Dec. 1, 2016)
350173 (XD) 1500 mL $795.00
CRISTAL BRUT CHAMPAGNE 2007
AC
JL VERGNON RÉSONANCE (Louis Roederer)
EXTRA BRUT BLANC DE BLANCS TASTING NOTE: Long-time Chef de
CHAMPAGNE 2009 Caves Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon has
CHAMPAGNE AC
TASTING NOTE: The richness of the
produced yet another in a string of superb
Champagnes with the 2007 Cristal. Rich,
vintage adds plenty of personality to powerful and enveloping, the 2007 takes
BARONS DE ROTHSCHILD BRUT the lemon-peel and grapefruit aromas. hold of all the senses and never lets up.
BLANC DE BLANCS CHAMPAGNE Peach pastry, too. The palate heads into The aromatics alone are captivating,
AC more exotic yellow-peach and mango but then the wine opens on the palate,
TASTING NOTE: Poached pear and lemon territory. Smooth, bready and savory finish. revealing layer after layer of flavor to match
pâte de fruit flavors are underscored by Drink now. a multi-dimensional, kaleidoscopic
hints of smoky minerality, candied ginger Score: 93 (James Suckling, jamessuckling. personality that will leave Champagne
and biscuit in this zesty, mouthwatering com, Sept. 5, 2018) lovers weak at the knees. The 2007 is
Champagne, which has a lively mousse. 11135 (XD) 750 mL $129.00 58% Pinot Noir and 42% Chardonnay,
Drink now through 2020. which is to say a bit more Chardonnay-
Score: 90 (Alison Napjus, winespectator. leaning than is the norm. The 2007 is
com, 2017) CRISTAL ROSÉ CHAMPAGNE 2008 striking today, but it should also age
AC effortlessly for several decades. It is also
263731 (XD) 750 mL $109.00 (Louis Roederer) without question one of the very finest
TASTING NOTE: As a group, the 2008 new releases of the year. Drinking window:
KRUG GRANDE CUVÉE BRUT Champagnes are focused and tightly 2015-2037.
CHAMPAGNE wound. The 2008 Cristal Rosé has plenty Score: 97+ (Antonio Galloni, vinous.com,
AC of those qualities, but what places it in a July 2015)
TASTING NOTE: This mouthwatering truly rarified category is its sheer depth 12464 (XD) 3000 mL $3500.00
Champagne shows a lovely sense of and verticality. Vinous, powerful and
finesse, with firm acidity deftly married to resonant, the 2008 has more than enough
a rich profile of crème de cassis, toasted stuffing to support decades of cellaring.
brioche and lime blossom, accented by For starters, it won’t be ready to drink for
hints of café au lait, singed orange peel another 5-10 years. Drinking window:
and exotic spice. Long and plush on 2020-2058.
the finish. Disgorged 2014. Drink now Score: 99 (Antonio Galloni, vinous.com,
through 2024. July 2018)
Score: 95 (Alison Napjus, winespectator. 629600 (XD) 750 mL $710.00
com, Oct. 31, 2018)
38588 (XD) 375 mL $160.00
38562 (XD) 750 mL $325.00
9 VINTAGES
THE CLASSICS COLLECTION • NOVEMBER 2019
AUSTRIA NIKOLAIHOF IM WEINGEBIRGE
GRÜNER VELTLINER TROCKEN 2015
Smaragd, Wachau
Grüner Veltliner
from Kremstal and TASTING NOTE: Bottled at the end of April
Wachau, and a complex, elegant field this year, the 2015 Im Weingebirge Grüner
blend of Riesling, Gewürztraminer Veltliner Smaragd is clear, deep and
and Pinot Gris from the cult favourite intense on the nose with its subtle aromas
Vienna region. of crushed stones and lemons. Some
animal leather and wild boar scents here
WHITE WINE as well. Full-bodied and intense but also
very elegant and finessed on the palate,
TÜRK RIED KREMSER SANDGRUBE this is a lush and impressively long and
GRÜNER VELTLINER 2017 very tensioned, highly expressive Smaragd
DAC Kremstal made for decades. Its slightly oxidative
style reminds me of traditional white
TASTING NOTE: Zest, pear, miso, pepper
and fennel seed are all hinted at on the
Riojas, but the crystalline acidity and
mineral character is clearly Wachau.
RHEINGAU
nose and appear inside a lovely, zesty WHITE WINE
A potential top-scorer, but the wine is
frame on the concentrated palate. Yeasty
far too young to be served today. Drink
texture amplifies the savoriness of the
date: 2030-2060.
herb and miso notes, but lemon zest SCHLOSS VOLLRADS
Score: 96+ (Stephan Reinhardt, SCHLOSSBERG GG TROCKEN
provides a lovely, full-flavored and
robertparker.com, Dec. 28, 2018) RIESLING 2016
refreshing finish.
Score: 93 (Anne Krebiehl, MW, Wine 112326 (XD) 750 mL $67.00 VDP
Enthusiast, March 1, 2019) TASTING NOTE: This is a bold, heady
12465 (XD) 750 mL $33.00 wine that penetrates the palate with rich
flavors of yellow peach and nectarine. It’s
voluminous and dense, yet anchored by
WEINGUT WIENINGER NUSSBERG
ALTE REBEN 2017 GERMANY piercing streaks of lemon-lime acidity and
bitter pith notes that lend tension to the
DAC Wiener Gemischter Satz Stunning, collectible finish. It’s a complex, muscular dry Riesling
Rieslings from two historic to enjoy now through 2035.
TASTING NOTE: This unique wine has a
producers. Score: 94 (Anna Lee Iijima, Wine
very complex nose of fresh nuts, candied
citrus and roses! Seriously elegant on Enthusiast, Feb. 1, 2019)
the palate, in spite of the intense salty and
chalky minerality that builds in an extra- MOSEL 10864 (D) 750 mL $48.00
ordinary way on the enormous, long finish.
From biodynamically grown grapes.
WHITE WINE
HUNGARY
Respekt certified. Drink or hold. Vinolok
glass closure. SELBACH-OSTER GRAACHER
Score: 95 (James Suckling, jamessuckling. DOMPROBST RIESLING SPÄTLESE A highly rated,
com, Oct. 9, 2018) 2016 captivating take on
Prädikatswein Hungary’s signature wine.
436303 (XD) 750 mL $46.00
TASTING NOTE: The 2016 Graacher
Domprobst Riesling Spätlese (AP 12 17) WHITE WINE
offers a deep and flinty bouquet of ripe
stone fruits and crunchy dark, oily slate DISZNÓKO 5 PUTTONYOS
plates. Full-bodied, lush and elegant, this TOKAJI ASZU 2010
is a pretty decadent and finessed Spätlese Tokaj
that is intense and dense on the palate
but also shows remarkable balance and Alison Napjus of winespectator.com
stimulating salinity. Drink date: 2018- awarded this wine a score of 92 points
2046. and suggested a drinking window of
Score: 93 (Stephan Reinhardt, 2018-2025. (Nov.15, 2018)
robertparker.com, April 27, 2018) TASTING NOTE: Tasted at the Disznóko
248682 (S) 750 mL $38.00 vertical in London, the 2010 Tokaji Aszu
5 Puttonyos is a blend of 65% Furmint,
20% Zéta and 15% Hárslevelu (incident-
10 VINTAGESTHE CLASSICS COLLECTION • NOVEMBER 2019
ally there was no 6 Puttonyos released from barrel last year, and the wine was LA SPINONA BERGERA BAROLO
this year). Deeper in color, burnished gold. already shaping up beautifully back then. 2013
It has a complex and quite powerful Staying the course, the 2015 Barolo DOCG
bouquet with Manuka honey, candle wax Bricco Boschis shows extreme elegance TASTING NOTE: Rose, iris, baking spice,
and sesame oil. There is good depth on and finesse. These are the characteristics menthol, new leather and a whiff of truffle
the palate, tangy marmalade and honey of what is surely one of the most beautiful are just some of the enticing scents
notes, crisp acidity with mandarin and vineyard sites in Barolo. The Bricco Boschis you’ll find in this fragrant red. The palate
dried quince, vibrant and captivating on cru affords a panoramic view onto much is all about finesse and tension, offering
the lively and vivacious finish. This is of the Langhe, with snowcapped Alps in wild strawberry, crushed raspberry, star
excellent and just brimming with energy. the background. Barolo from Castiglione anise and chopped mint framed by taut,
Score: 94 (Neal Martin, robertparker.com, Falletto tends to show characteristics that refined tannins and vibrant acidity. Drink:
Oct. 28, 2016) are very fine, precise and linear. That’s 2021-2033.
452292 (S) 500 mL $59.00 fundamentally what you get here despite Score: 95 (Kerin O’Keefe, Wine Enthusiast,
the more exuberant and fleshy 2015 Dec. 1, 2018)
vintage. This wine is truly beautiful. Some
27,700 bottles were made. Drink date: 577882 (XD) 750 mL $58.00
2022-2040.
ITALY Score: 96 (Monica Larner, robertparker.
com, June 28, 2019) TUSCANY
Much for the enthusiast to
admire here, including four 579276 (XD) 750 mL $106.00 RED WINE
striking, polished Barolos,
multiple sizes of the 2016 Sassicaia CONTERNO FANTINO MOSCONI LE SERRE NUOVE 2017
and the 2016 Luce, and two offerings VIGNA PED BAROLO 2014 DOC Bolgheri Rosso
from Quintarelli. DOCG (Tenuta dell’Ornellaia)
TASTING NOTE: The 2014 Barolo This is one of those special wines, the
Mosconi is laced with the essence of
CAMPANIA smoke, gravel, mocha, melted road tar,
kind that enthusiasts have on a list and
check off each vintage like old-school
plum, lavender and licorice. Ample and trading cards. From Ornellaia’s younger
RED WINE
broad on the palate, with striking aromatic vineyard, it’s a wine of considerable
intensity, it is a wonderfully complete complexity and depth. Look for concen-
TERREDORA PAGO DEI FUSI Barolo. Like all of the 2014s here, the trated dark and red fruit accented by
TAURASI 2010 Mosconi is distinguished by silky, super- mocha, chocolate and smoke tones.
DOCG polished tannins. There is much to like
in this exotic, compelling Barolo from 51482 (D) 1500 mL $145.00
TASTING NOTE: The 2010 Taurasi Pago 51490 (D) 3000 mL $310.00
dei Fusi is a dark and austere Aglianico Conterno-Fantino. Drinking window:
with dried aromas of red currant and 2022-2034.
pressed blackberries. There are deeply Score: 95 (Antonio Galloni, vinous.com, LUCE 2016
smoky layers of campfire ash and crushed Feb. 2018) IGT Toscana
mineral that hint at the enormous tertiary (Luce della Vite)
158519 (XD) 750 mL $110.00
definition and complexity that can be TASTING NOTE: A ripe but suggestive
achieved with Taurasi. The mouthfeel is nose of dark cherries, dark chocolate,
elegantly streamlined yet very powerful at CONTERNO FANTINO SORÌ hot stones, cassis, brambleberry pie and
the same time. Drink date: 2018-2035. GINESTRA BAROLO 2014
DOCG bark. Yet, on the palate, this paints an
Score: 94 (Monica Larner, robertparker. altogether different picture, in which sleek
com, Dec. 7, 2018) TASTING NOTE: The 2014 Barolo Sorì tannins carry fresh layers of forest fruit
Ginestra is striking. Ample, creamy and long, through a compact, full-bodied
235374 (XD) 750 mL $70.00
voluptuous, it exudes class from the very palate. Powerful acidity steers it through
first taste. Like all of these wines, the to a restrained but chewy finish. Drink
2014 Sori has a sweetness of tannin that
PIEDMONT is impossible to miss. Lavender, blueberry
in 2024.
Score: 96 (James Suckling, jamessuckling.
jam, spice and menthol build into the com, June 16, 2019)
RED WINE
sumptuous, enveloping finish. The 2014
is a real stunner. That’s all there is to it. 964551 (D) 1500 mL $260.00
CAVALLOTTO BRICCO BOSCHIS Drinking window: 2020-2034. 651018 (D) 3000 mL $580.00
BAROLO 2015 Score: 95 (Antonio Galloni, vinous.com, 435214 (D) 6000 mL $1230.00
DOCG Feb. 2018)
TASTING NOTE: I had tasted this wine 105502 (XD) 750 mL $120.00
11 VINTAGESTHE CLASSICS COLLECTION • NOVEMBER 2019
LUX VITIS 2016 To my mind, the 2016 Sassicaia stands ALTESINO MONTOSOLI BRUNELLO
IGT Toscana tall next to the epic 1985 vintage that set DI MONTALCINO 2013
(Marchesi de’ Frescobaldi) the ultimate benchmark for vino italiano. DOCG
The Cabernet that forms the basis for this Drink date: 2021-2050. TASTING NOTE: Enticing aromas of ripe
wine was planted in Montalcino in 2004 Score: 100 (Monica Larner, robertparker. berry, chopped herb, new leather, tobacco
in mixed sandy soil. The grapes these vines com, Jan. 17, 2019) and a whiff of eucalyptus all mingle
produced were of such exceptional quality 480541 (D) 1500 mL $540.00 together on this gorgeous, vibrant red.
that it was decided they deserved a wine 480558 (D) 3000 mL $1030.00 The stunning, savory palate boasts juicy
of their own rather than being incorporated 184275 (D) 6000 mL $5030.00 red cherry, pomegranate, white pepper
into other blends. A small percentage of and star anise while firm refined tannins
Sangiovese was added to further enrich and vibrant acidity lend structure and
the overall wine. A superb Supertuscan GAJA PIEVE SANTA RESTITUTA balance. It’s already extraordinary and
with classic elegance, complex spice and BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2014 elegant but also young and primary, so
DOP
wild berry and a long finish. give it time to fully develop. Cellar
TASTING NOTE: In 2012, Gaja blended Selection. Drink: 2023-2043.
10618 (XD) 750 mL $175.00
all three of their top vineyards together Score: 99 (Kerin O’Keefe, Wine Enthusiast,
10619 (XD) 1500 mL $380.00
to create a single punchy super Brunello May 1, 2018)
cuvee. In 2014 they did the same again
92247 (XD) 750 mL $119.00
SASSICAIA 2016 due to difficult weather conditions but
DOC Bolgheri Sassicaia with one massive difference being that
(Tenuta San Guido) this time, 80% to 90% of the final cuvee’s
TASTING NOTE: The 2016 Sassicaia is a fruit came from just the two Cru vineyards VENETO
wine of soaring achievement. I tasted this of Rennina and Sugarille. Bright trans- RED WINE
wine several times during the course of lucent colour, the 2014 Brunello mimics
its creation in both barrel and bottle, and the delicious 2012 release. The result
the highly deserved 100-point score you is a wonderfully fragrant, expressive REMO FARINA MONTEFANTE
see here was enthusiastically assigned aromatic nose showing tar, red cherry, RISERVA AMARONE DELLA
Seville oranges, earthy aniseed root, VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO 2011
at the conclusion of a mini vertical in which
violets, cherry blossom, tannery leather DOCG
I tasted and compared the 2016 vintage
against 2015 (which I scored 97 points). and sweet cedar oak vanilla spice TASTING NOTE: A sumptuous Amarone
It makes perfect sense to present these complexity. Deliciously plump and full that’s replete with plum liqueur, Christmas
two excellent vintages in back-to-back fruited, this wine is plush and opulent, pudding, figs, prunes, cinnamon, nutmeg,
comparison fashion because they are two fleshy, dense and super vibrant with an tobacco and forest floor. The palate is
of the best to emerge from Bolgheri, and extra level of stony minerality. What a very layered, the tannins being stacked up
indeed Tenuta San Guido, in recent fabulous success for the vintage. Drink on one another, which is just the right
memory. These are very similar vintages now to 2030+. counterpoint to the plush fruit and flavors.
with long, hot summer months that fueled Score: 94 (Greg Sherwood, MW, Drink in 2023.
a long growing season. There was a bit gregsherwoodmw.com, April 2, 2019) Score: 94 (James Suckling, jamessuckling.
more rain in 2016, and in analytical terms 628511 (XD) 1500 mL $254.00 com, June 16, 2019)
this vintage has a tad more acidity. 63636 (D) 750 mL $79.00
However, the results in the glass are
extraordinarily different. The 2015 vintage ALTESINO BRUNELLO DI
is exuberant, round, succulent and MONTALCINO 2013 QUINTARELLI ALZERO 2008
immediate, whereas the 2016 vintage DOCG IGT Veneto
shows pinpoint sharpness and precision TASTING NOTE: An intense perfume of The primarily old-vine Cabernet Franc
(with similar grit and texture at the back). juniper, bay laurel, sage, rose and berry Alzero is made using the appassimento
That acidity will carry it long into the marks this silky red. The structure is there, technique, in which the grapes are dried
future as the wine completes its slow yet superb balance and refined tannins before being pressed and made into wine.
evolutionary course. This wine is chiseled help this retain elegance through the long The style embodies the uncompromising
and sharp with blackberry, ripe cherry, finish. Almost ethereal in its presence. perfection that lies at the heart of these
grilled herb and barbecue spice. The Best from 2021 through 2036. phenomenal, concentrated, intensely
aromas flow from the glass in a continuous Score: 95 (Bruce Sanderson, flavoured handmade wines that routinely
stream and are all marked by radiant winespectator.com, June 15, 2018) earn ratings in the 90-97-point range
intensity. The mouthfeel is long and from many of the world’s most respected
994095 (D) 750 mL $59.00
powerful. The crisp linearity of the wine’s critics.
tannic backbone is perfectly measured
402156 (XD) 750 mL $590.00
to the volume and depth of the fruit flavors.
12 VINTAGESTHE CLASSICS COLLECTION • NOVEMBER 2019
ZENATO ARCHIVIO STORICO
AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA PORTUGAL balance of the other wines. Personally, I’d
take the 2009 Quinta da Leda (not seen
2008 Douro, the home of Port, for this issue) or the 2015. They may not
DOC shines with two powerful, be as attention-getting, but they are far
TASTING NOTE: A rich, harmonious red, intense dry reds made from the fresher, particularly the 2015. Some may
offering a lovely, detailed range of baked indigenous Touriga Nacional be happier with this, to be sure, others
cherry, toffee, dried lemon thyme, fig and Touriga Franca. probably not. Let’s start here and see if this
cake and toasted cardamom flavors, with holds its balance as it ages. A little caution
a subtle smoky underpinning. Soft, citrus RED WINE is warranted. It may yet make its case in
peel acidity and seamlessly integrated the cellar, and these tend to age very
creamy tannins provide a fine, supple CARM MARIA DE LOURDES 2015 well – although (beware...) this is not the
frame. This is aging gracefully. Drink now DOC Douro freshest year. Drink date: 2019-2040.
through 2028. (Roboredo Madeira) Score: 93+ (Mark Squires, robertparker.
Score: 94 (Alison Napjus, winespectator. com, Aug. 31, 2018)
TASTING NOTE: The 2015 Tinto Maria
com, Aug. 31, 2019) 11286 (XD) 750 mL $220.00
de Lourdes, scheduled for release shortly
10383 (D) 750 mL $479.00 after this article appears, is a 70/30 blend
of Touriga Nacional and Touriga Franca,
QUINTARELLI RECIOTO DELLA aged for 24 months in second use French
VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO 2007
DOC
oak. It comes in at 14% alcohol. Sexy,
vivid and intense with fruit flavor, this is
SPAIN
An impressive collection
gorgeous. It’s a wine that many will swoon
This sweet wine is crafted in a manner of high-scoring wines,
for. The tannins are ripe, but there are
similar to Amarone, but the fermentation including the 2015 Muga Aro
some and they provide support for the
is stopped to preserve the sweetness. and the 1964 Faustino I Gran Reserva.
wine. It has a fresh, elegant and lively
This classic expression comes from one
feel too. This is beautiful. The only question
of the most important houses in all of wine.
is whether it turns into anything more – RED WINE
Giuseppe Quintarelli may have passed
which it has to do to justify its rating or
away in 2012, but the impact of his legacy
a better one. It is rather approachable CONTINO VIÑA DEL OLIVO
will reverberate through the cellars of wine
now. However, let’s start here and see GENÉRICO 2015
lovers for generations to come. This will
where we go. You’ll love this either way. DOCa Rioja
have touches of bitter chocolate and dried
Drink date: 2019-2032. TASTING NOTE: Simply stunning in 2015,
fruit with a long and sensual finish.
Score: 94 (Mark Squires, robertparker. as it was in 2014, Contino’s best wine
722967 (S) 375 mL $210.00 com, Aug. 31, 2018) is the kind of red that any serious Rioja
10398 (XD) 750 mL $56.00 lover should have in his cellar. Marrying
Tempranillo with 10% Graciano, it’s a
SÜDTIROL-ALTO CASA FERREIRINHA
world-class cuvée made for the long haul,
ADIGE RESERVA ESPECIAL 2009
with aromas of incense and Mediterranean
herbs, fine, nuanced tannins, chalky acidity
DOC Douro
WHITE WINE and incredible focus, balance and palate
TASTING NOTE: The 2009 Reserva length. Drink date: 2022-2035.
Especial is mostly a 45/30 blend of Score: 98 (Tim Atkin, MW, timatkin.com,
NALS MARGREID BARON Touriga Franca and Touriga Nacional, Rioja Special Report 2018)
SALVADORI RISERVA CHARDONNAY with 15% Tinta Roriz and 10% Tinto Cão,
2016 aged for 16 months in 75% new French 12551 (XD) 750 mL $104.00
DOC Südtirol-Alto Adige oak. It comes in at 14.5% alcohol. Very
TASTING NOTE: This immediately muscular, this has all the warmth of this
captivates on the nose with nutmeg, difficult and very hot vintage. The fruit
apricots, vanilla, cloves, mangoes and marches right up to the line of too ripe
peaches. Medium to full body, layers of and perhaps goes over it. The wine shows
tropical and stone fruit and such driven dark baked-plum flavors and just a hint
acidity as to make the weight and intensity of prune. I liked it anyway, but it is hard to
on the palate quite seamless. Drink now. call it a great Reserva Especial, even with
Score: 95 (James Suckling, jamessuckling. some elements of greatness to it. The
com, Nov. 25, 2018) structure here is astonishingly good, for
435404 (D) 750 mL $49.00 one thing, leaving this tight and powerful.
That’s not unusual for this big vintage or
the brand. However, it simply lacks the
13 VINTAGESTHE CLASSICS COLLECTION • NOVEMBER 2019
LEGÓN PREMIUM 2015 FAUSTINO I GRAN RESERVA 1964
DO Ribera del Duero DOCa Rioja
(Viña Vilano)
A profound wine from a standout vintage,
TASTING NOTE: 100% Tempranillo. this provides exquisite insight into mature
Very good expression of Tempranillo from Rioja.
Ribera. The wine has a pronounced
TASTING NOTE: A renowned vintage in
intensity on the nose with red and black
Rioja. This has a very mature feel with
fruits, spices, oak and chocolate. The
cedar, furniture polish and leather, as well
palate is full-bodied with a black cherry
as dried mushrooms, rosehips and sweet
expression. It finishes impressively with
earth. There’s a mellowness to the tannin,
just a touch of supportive liquorice. Bravo!
very impressive dried cherries and berries
Score: 96 (Decanter World Wine Awards,
and an earthy, long and mellow wood-and- Score: 92 (John Szabo, MS, winealign.com,
2018)
mushroom finish. Drink now. March 11, 2019)
270645 (XD) 750 mL $34.00 Score: 93 (James Suckling, jamessuckling. 398347 (XD) 750 mL $48.95
com, Aug. 2, 2018)
MUGA ARO 2015 522557 (XD) 750 mL $360.00
DOCa Rioja TWO SISTERS STONE EAGLE
ESTATE RESERVE 2013
TASTING NOTE: A more sophisticated, VQA Niagara River, Niagara-on-the-Lake
savory and minerally attitude on the nose
with dark chocolate, plum liqueur and dark
cherry that’s still very primary. Violets, too.
CANADA TASTING NOTE: The reserve has a little
more verve and life, and freshness, than
A refined Nova Scotian the “regular” Stone Eagle; I’d say merlot
This has sexy, seductive dark plums and sparkler and head-turning has more to offer in Niagara than cabernet
berries on the palate with an immaculate cellar-worthy wines from Ontario. sauvignon. The balance, and degree of
tannin texture and freshness. Profound, ripeness of fruit is more comfortable, and
unending depth. Wow! Try this from 2023. the wood is far better integrated. Length
Score: 99 (James Suckling, jamessuckling.
com, Dec. 26, 2018) ONTARIO is excellent. Very fine wine. Drink or hold
until 2025 or so.
169292 (XD) 750 mL $209.00 RED WINE Score: 93 (John Szabo, MS, winealign.com,
Aug. 8, 2018)
BUIL & GINÉ PLERET 2013 TAWSE CHERRY AVENUE 12180 (XD) 750 mL $78.00
DOCa Priorat PINOT NOIR 2016
VQA Twenty Mile Bench,
TASTING NOTE: Dark garnet with faint Niagara Escarpment
bricking. Open nose of toast, spice, mocha
WHITE WINE
and cut hay with menthol and dried fruit TASTING NOTE: The Tawse Cherry
aromas. Splendid Mediterranean scents on Avenue pinot is a ripe and fleshy, supple TAWSE ROBYN’S BLOCK
the palate within a lively framework that and almost voluptuous wine, with CHARDONNAY 2015
hides its powerfulness. Profound, soft and generous, mouth-filling palate, very VQA Twenty Mile Bench,
at its peak. Superb. satisfying, and abundant but ripe and soft Niagara Escarpment
Score: 95 (gilbertgaillard.com, 2018) tannins, rendering it highly appealing
TASTING NOTE: Here’s a big, rich almost
overall. It shows a little more warmth, heft
405654 (XD) 750 mL $88.00 bullish yet still honed chardonnay from
and roundness than the (also excellent)
the oldest, organically farmed vines on
Quarry Road Pinot, but maintains the
the home vineyards at Tawse. The nose
chiseled structure and fine detailing that
shows generous, very complex aromas of
marks so many of winemaker Paul
poached/custardy pear, gentle nutmeg,
Pender’s wine, as well as the evident
lime blossom, wet stone and vague smoke.
concentration and genuine depth and
It is full bodied, firm yet broad on the palate
density that comes from careful farming.
with considerable richness, although the
It has been kept tightly under wraps from
finish dries and narrows. Great acidity and
oxygen and still presents a gently reductive
minerality here. Fans of Meursault in
side, a good thing if your intention is to
Burgundy will get the drift. Outstanding
age the wine. As it is, I would tuck in the
length.
cellar for another 2-3 years to develop
Score: 94 (David Lawrason, winealign.com,
more aromatic amplitude and fine-tune
March 1, 2019)
the palate texture. Best 2021-2030.
Certified Organic and Biodynamic. 416321 (XD) 750 mL $46.15
14 VINTAGESTHE CLASSICS COLLECTION • NOVEMBER 2019
NOVA SCOTIA cedar, tobacco and vanilla, the palate has
a great harmony of ripe fruit, savoury black
ESK VALLEY THE TERRACES
RESERVE 2016
olive hints and really fresh acidity, complex Hawke’s Bay, North Island
SPARKLING WINE
and intriguing. TASTING NOTE: Every bit as impressive
Score: 97 (Decanter World Wine Awards, and slick as the 2015, this has a beautifully
BENJAMIN BRIDGE MÉTHODE 2018) seductive, dark-fruited nose with attractive
CLASSIQUE RESERVE BRUT
492942 (XD) 750 mL $73.00 earthy and spicy complexity. There’s a
SPARKLING 2013
Traditional method, Nova Scotia succulent, elegantly powerful and
seamlessly delivered array of ripe plums,
This traditional-method sparkler is THE STANDISH SHIRAZ 2016 mulberries and blueberries on the palate.
crafted from the classic Champagne Barossa Valley, South Australia A malbec, merlot and cabernet franc.
grape varieties of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir TASTING NOTE: Dan’s 2016 The Standish Good aging potential. Drink or hold. Ranks
and Pinot Meunier and is subjected to Shiraz comes from a vineyard in the #36 of James Suckling’s Top 100 Wines
the same labour-intensive, rigorous Greenock subregion. It’s inky in color, of New Zealand 2018.
process. It offers great intensity and loaded with plum, blueberry and raspberry Score: 95 (James Suckling, jamessuckling.
complexity, with gorgeous fresh-baked fruit. Full-bodied, creamy-textured and com, Dec. 17, 2018)
bread, citrus and apple and a lip-smacking rich, it’s intense, concentrated and long
acidity. Most importantly, it’s a celebration 10799 (XD) 750 mL $150.00
beyond belief, picking up hints of licorice
of Nova Scotia’s developing potential along the way. Nearly embryonic, it will
as a fine cool-climate growing area. need at least a couple of years to show PADDY BORTHWICK RIGHT HAND
275396 (D) 750 mL $75.00 more than the primary fruit. Drink date: PINOT NOIR 2016
2020-2035. Gladstone, Wairarapa, North Island
Score: 99 (Joe Czerwinski, robertparker. TASTING NOTE: Gorgeously ripe and
com, Aug. 31, 2018) fragrant, the instantly appealing bouquet
AUSTRALIA 10531 (XD) 750 mL $160.00 shows dark cherry, spiced plum, vanilla,
hazelnut and floral characters, leading to
A trio of 2016s from
Down Under that span a succulent palate that is impressively
the breadth of Australia. Two distinct weighted and richly textured. The wine
takes on Shiraz from Clonakilla and
Standish and a classic Cabernet from NEW ZEALAND is brimming with delectable flavours,
superbly complemented by supple
Margaret River. Nice representation from both mouthfeel and silky tannins. A hugely
islands, with classic expressions appealing pinot. At its best: now to 2021.
RED WINE from Marlborough and Score: 95 (Sam Kim, wineorbit.co.nz,
Hawke’s Bay complemented Sept. 2018)
by offerings from Central Otago
CLONAKILLA O’RIADA SHIRAZ 2016 10351 (XD) 750 mL $68.00
and Wairarapa.
Canberra District
TASTING NOTE: Full crimson-purple; while RED WINE SACRED HILL DEERSTALKERS
not due for release until early ’18, as at SYRAH 2015
June ’17 this medium to full-bodied wine Gimblett Gravels, Hawke’s Bay,
BURN COTTAGE PINOT NOIR 2016 North Island
was already kicking up its heels. There is Central Otago, South Island
a masterful and utterly harmonious blend TASTING NOTE: Sweetly fruited and
of dark fruits, warm spices, ripe tannins TASTING NOTE: This is a terrific pinot beautifully perfumed, this gorgeous syrah
and French oak. The very large X-factor is noir – great to drink now despite the from the Gimblett Gravels district shows
its freshness, which will underwrite its sneaking feeling that it’s going to get even blackberry, dark plum, clove and toasted
very long life. Bargain basement shelf. better with bottle age. Totally seductive almond characters with nuances of
Special Value. Drink By: 2041. ripe cherry, berry and plum flavours with tapenade and black pepper. The palate
Score: 96 (James Halliday, added complexity from subliminal floral, exhibits outstanding fruit purity and
winecompanion.com.au, July 1, 2018) spice, savoury and herb. The texture is to concentration, combined with fabulous
die for and the wine has impressive power spicy/savoury complexity, impeccably
303248 (XD) 750 mL $55.00 as evidenced by a lingering finish that framed by polished tannins. At its best:
won’t quit. Ranks #1 of 112 in Bob 2019 to 2030.
STELLA BELLA SERIE LUMINOSA Campbell’s 2016 Pinot Noir tasted from Score: 97 (Sam Kim, wineorbit.co.nz,
CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2016 Central Otago. Drink date: 2018 to 2026. June 2017)
Margaret River, Western Australia Score: 98 (Bob Campbell, MW,
bobcampbell.nz, Oct. 14, 2018) 10796 (XD) 750 mL $68.00
TASTING NOTE: 100% Cabernet
Sauvignon. Lovely ripe red and black 578054 (XD) 750 mL $79.00
fruit on the nose with hints of dried herbs,
15 VINTAGESTHE CLASSICS COLLECTION • NOVEMBER 2019
WHITE WINE cherry and graphite notes and beautifully in the glass, denoting great complexity.
handled oak. A thrilling Cabernet Franc of It’s nicely proportioned and balanced,
great precision and palate length. Drink layered and complex. There is superb
CLOUDY BAY TE KOKO date: 2019-2026. balance and elegance on the palate, and
SAUVIGNON BLANC 2013
Score: 95 (Tim Atkin, MW, timatkin.com, the quality of tannins is stunning. Great
Marlborough, South Island
South Africa Special Report 2018) Malbec from extremely young vines. There
TASTING NOTE: Another nicely groomed is a lot more complexity here than in the
11092 (XD) 750 mL $47.00
and balanced edition of this flagship wine. Crua Chan wines – it shows the variety, the
It has a layer of dried flowers, beeswax soil and the wild place. 1,500 bottles and
and dried wild grasses across more PORSELEINBERG SYRAH 2016 18 magnums were filled in May 2017.
fruit-centered aromas like lime leaves, WO Swartland Once the different zones of Gualtallary are
lime curd and subtly spicy French oak TASTING NOTE: If ever a South African made official, this will fall in the Monasterio
influence. The palate has a more savory wine tasted of specific place it is zone. Drink date: 2018-2024.
start with hints of nougat, honey and Porseleinberg, the Cape’s answer to Score: 96 (Luis Gutiérrez, robertparker.
passionfruit. Some pastry-like savory Cornas in terms of its dense, compact com, June 29, 2018)
moments as it builds texture and weight structure, but with a personality that is 11968 (XD) 750 mL $78.00
before folding neatly into an attractive, all its own: wild, savoury and unruly with
pithy, lime-citrus finish. Drink now to 2020. tannins that can be demanding in their
Score: 93 (James Suckling, jamessuckling. youth. Fermented with 100% whole ZORZAL WINES
com, Oct. 25, 2016) bunches and aged in a combination of EGGO TINTO DE TIZA 2016
Uco Valley, Mendoza
84897 (XD) 750 mL $62.00 concrete eggs and foudres, it’s ripe,
but not overly so, with notes of garrigue TASTING NOTE: The incredible 2016
and tangerine and a stony, compact finish. Eggo Tinto de Tiza was cropped from
Drink date: 2022-2035. one of the coolest years in recent times,
SOUTH Score: 96 (Tim Atkin, MW, timatkin.com,
South Africa Special Report 2018)
which provided a slow ripening of the
grapes and resulted in wines with higher
AFRICA 483941 (XD) 750 mL $100.00
natural acidity. This wine is now exclusively
Malbec from Gualtallary (it used to have
The great heritage of
South African winemaking is some Cabernet Franc and Cabernet
on display here with these utterly Sauvignon before). It fermented with 10%
full clusters and indigenous yeasts in
on-point examples of Cabernet
Franc and Syrah. ARGENTINA egg-shaped concrete vats, where the wine
matured for ten months. It’s super
Three takes on Mendoza’s
cool 2016 vintage: two 100% Malbecs aromatic, with notes of thyme, oregano,
RED WINE spices and something earthy, like the
and a definitive Chardonnay.
Plus a stunning single-vineyard countryside after the rain. It’s young and
GABRIËLSKLOOF THE LANDSCAPE Bordeaux blend from 2012. has an explosive, vibrant palate with
SERIES CABERNET FRANC 2016 electric acidity and chalky tannins. 2016
Dingle Vineyard, Bot River, Western Cape RED WINE could very well be the finest vintage to
TASTING NOTE: For the second year date, one of those vintages that will be
running, this remarkable Cabernet Franc legendary. This is just unbelievable for the
GEN DEL ALMA SEMINARE MALBEC price. 35,000 bottles produced. It was
has triumphed in my tastings. There’s no
2016 bottled in February 2017. Drink date:
sign of the greater heat of the vintage here, Gualtallary, Uco Valley
just freshness, poise, silky tannnins, black 2018-2022.
TASTING NOTE: The 2016 Seminare Score: 95 (Luis Gutiérrez, robertparker.
comes from a head-pruned plot (Eiti Leda) com, June 29, 2018)
that yields no more than 1,200 kilos per 482000 (XD) 750 mL $38.00
hectare. It’s from a vineyard planted in
2013 in Gualtallary that they didn’t irrigate
in 2016, as the year saw more than TAPIZ LAS NOTAS
enough rain. This fermented in 3,000-liter DE JEAN CLAUDE 2012
concrete amphorae with 100% full San Pablo Single Vineyard, Tupungato,
clusters and foot treading, with a 30-day Uco Valley
maceration after fermentation finished. TASTING NOTE: There is a new top-of-
It matured in used barriques until bottling, the-range red, the 2012 Las Notas de
without racking or refilling of the barrels. Jean Claude, which is a blend of mainly
Fragrant, floral, expressive, elegant and Merlot with Cabernet Franc, Cabernet
clean, subtle and nuanced, the nose is Sauvignon and Petit Verdot from their
really attractive and develops new tones vineyard in San Pablo in the Uco Valley
16 VINTAGESTHE CLASSICS COLLECTION • NOVEMBER 2019
CHILE
savoury and proper spicy Sauvignon to
buy by the case. Very accomplished and
The 100-point 2014 Clos Apalta just the ticket for smoked trout.
leads here, supported by a Score: 95 (Decanter World Wine Awards,
powerhouse blend of old-vine 2018)
Cabernet (120 years old) and 11896 (XD) 750 mL $49.00
Carmenère (70 years old), plus
a bold, expressive Sauvignon Blanc.
RED WINE
USA
Big names and bigger
NEYEN ESPÍRITU DE APALTA 2015 scores dominate these
at some 1,300 meters altitude, fermented DO Colchagua Valley wines from California,
in inox and matured in French oak barrels TASTING NOTE: This is crazy with Washington and Oregon.
for one year after malo also in barrique. mushrooms, black truffle, blackberries
The name is a homage to their winemaking and hot stone. Old-vine magic. Full body,
consultant, Jean-Clade Berrouet. The
nose is quite subtle, with good ripeness
dense and so polished with integrated CALIFORNIA
and melted tannins. Greatness and
but without excess and integrated oak, respect. A blend of 55% cabernet RED WINE
with some sweet spices. It’s subtle and sauvignon and 45% carmenere. Made
elegant, quite a change from the rest of the from organically grown grapes. 120-year- FAR NIENTE ESTATE
range. The blend of grapes erases the old cabernet and 70-year-old carmenere. CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2017
varietal character and there is complexity Amazing. Drink or hold. Oakville, Napa Valley
beyond that of the grape. The medium- Score: 98 (James Suckling, jamessuckling.
bodied palate is very polished with From one of the most historic of Napa
com, Dec. 27, 2018)
ultra-fine tannins and good acidity making Valley wineries, this complex, characterful,
255976 (XD) 750 mL $60.00 richly textured, elegantly styled Cabernet is
for a very harmonious, and sleek texture
through the long and elegant finish. I’d one of the reasons this critically acclaimed,
have difficulties placing this in Argentina, CLOS APALTA 2014 award-winning property has played such
and I’d probably go to Bordeaux. This is Apalta Valley a pivotal role in the establishment of the
a great blend. I’m impressed, this is very Oakville area of Napa Valley. This is a wine
TASTING NOTE: This was the first that will soar this evening with lamb, steak
different for what I’ve tasted before from 100-point wine from here with such
Tapiz. Drink date: 2015-2020. or braised meats but has the pedigree and
aromas of fresh herbs and dark berry quality to evolve for another 15 or 20 years.
Score: 94 (Luis Gutiérrez, robertparker. and floral undertones. Hot stone character.
com, Aug. 27, 2015) Full body, very linear and ultra-fine tannins. 539098 (XD) 750 mL $285.00
11969 (XD) 750 mL $85.00 The precision and perfection here is
impressive, as it has always been. A blend KOSTA-BROWNE SONOMA COAST
of carmenere, cabernet sauvignon and PINOT NOIR 2017
WHITE WINE merlot. Drink or hold. Sonoma Coast, Sonoma County
Score: 100 (James Suckling,
TASTING NOTE: ... the appellation 2017
CATENA ZAPATA WHITE BONES jamessuckling.com, April 26, 2018)
Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast reveals a
ADRIANNA VINEYARD CHARDONNAY 10712 (XD) 750 mL $250.00 ruby/purple, translucent color as well as a
2016 stunning perfume of black raspberries,
Mendoza
cassis, crushed violets, spice box, sweet
TASTING NOTE: From the Adrianna WHITE WINE earth. It’s rich, medium to full-bodied, has
Vineyard’s most chalk-rich soils. Pungent beautiful depth, a kiss of background oak,
acidity, like a freshly sharpened razor. and a great finish. Mostly destemmed and
CALYPTRA GRAN RESERVA
80% of the wine is matured under flor, aged 17 months in 40% new French oak,
SAUVIGNON BLANC 2015
accounting for the saline, almost iodised Estate grown & bottled, it’s a brilliant wine to drink over the coming
notes. Notes of white fruit and intense DO Alto Cachapoal Valley decade or more. Maturity: 2020-2030.
minerality in a complex yet delicious and Score: 96 (Jeb Dunnuck, jebdunnuck.com,
refreshing white. Drinking window: TASTING NOTE: 100% Sauvignon Blanc. June 14, 2019)
2019-2024. Classy and bold from the start, this is a
serious and lovely oaked style with aromas 359034 (D) 750 mL $165.00
Score: 98 (Patricio Tapia, decanter.com,
May 20, 2019) of tangerine, butter toast and roasted
lemons. An altogether complex, layered,
514844 (XD) 750 mL $125.00
17 VINTAGESTHE CLASSICS COLLECTION • NOVEMBER 2019
TURLEY DUARTE ZINFANDEL 2017 RIDGE VINEYARDS ESTATE ground running with bright, expressive
Contra Costa County, Central Coast CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2016 scents of raspberry coulis, blackcurrant
Monte Bello Vineyard, cordial, baked plums and Morello cherries
TASTING NOTE: The 2017 Zinfandel Santa Cruz Mountains
Duarte comes from three vineyards giving way to a beguiling perfume of
planted between 1890 and 1930, with TASTING NOTE: The 2016 Cabernet potpourri, new leather, cloves and
own-rooted vines in sandy soils. Medium Sauvignon Estate comes from the Santa unsmoked cigars plus wafts of sassafras
to deep ruby-purple in color, it opens with Cruz Mountain estate, and it follows its big and pencil lead. The generously fruited,
warm cinnamon toast, shaved nutmeg brother Monte Bello’s style with a terrific full-bodied palate ups the game with
and touches of candied peach over a core sense of elegance paired with richness. exotic spice fireworks among the rich,
of sliced blueberries and warm black Lots of crème de cassis, crushed violets, opulent fruit, supported by firm, tight-
cherries with earthy nuances. Medium to vanilla, tobacco leaf, and cedar notes flow grained tannins and bold freshness,
full-bodied, it has great intensity in the to a medium to full-bodied, beautifully finishing very long. Drink date: 2018-
mouth, with black and blue fruits and spicy concentrated, layered Cabernet Sauvignon 2055.
layers, great juicy acidity and a structuring that has terrific purity, building tannins, and Score: 99 (Lisa Perrotti-Brown, MW,
frame of ripe, grainy tannins, finishing long a great finish. It offers pleasure today yet robertparker.com, Dec. 7, 2018)
and flavorful. 1,500 cases produced. won’t hit prime time for another 5-7 years, 11088 (XD) 750 mL $840.00
Drink date: 2019-2028. and it’s going to evolve for 15-20 years
Score: 93 (Erin Brooks, robertparker.com, (probably longer). Drink date: 2024-2044.
HUNDRED ACRE VINEYARD WRAITH
March 14, 2019) Score: 94+ (Jeb Dunnuck, jebdunnuck. CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2014
com, June 14, 2019) Napa Valley
12498 (XD) 750 mL $80.00
89284 (XD) 750 mL $110.00 TASTING NOTE: Medium to deep
garnet-purple colored, the 2014 Cabernet
TURLEY KIRSCHENMANN
VINEYARD ZINFANDEL 2017 HESS COLLECTION THE LION Sauvignon Wraith opens with compelling
Lodi CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2014 crème de cassis, wild blueberries, anise,
Mount Veeder, Napa Valley chocolate mint and black earth scents
TASTING NOTE: The 2017 Zinfandel plus suggestions of candied violets,
Kirschenmann Vineyard comes from TASTING NOTE: Blended of 82%
cinnamon stick, tar, cigar box and smoked
own-rooted vines planted in sandy soils in Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Malbec and
meats. Full-bodied, rich, super firm and
1915. Winemaker Tegan Passalacqua 1% Petit Verdot, the 2014 Cabernet
built like a brick house, the palate offers
notes that other varieties planted in this Sauvignon The Lion has a very deep
layer upon layer of very tightly wound,
old vineyard include Refosco, Carignane garnet-purple color and nose of baked
subtly nuanced flavors leading to a very
and Cinsault. Pale to medium ruby-purple blueberries, plum preserves and crème
long, very perfumed and minerally finish.
colored, it opens with warm peach de cassis with a wonderfully spicy under-
If any Hundred Acre wine can live for
preserves, cinnamon stick and dried leaves current featuring Chinese five spice, black
100 years, this is certainly a contender.
hints with dried red and black cherries and pepper and fenugreek with touches of
Drink date: 2022-2080.
notes of dried flowers. Medium-bodied, cigar box and bay leaves. Medium to
Score: 100 (Lisa Perrotti-Brown, MW,
it gives pretty layers of dried fruits, flowers full-bodied, concentrated and tightly
robertparker.com, Dec. 7, 2018)
and spices in the mouth, with juicy acidity wound at this youthful stage, it has a
tethered by firm, fine-grained tannins, rock-solid backbone of firm, grainy tannins 11090 (XD) 750 mL $775.00
finishing very long and spicy. 1,000 cases and lively acidity supporting the muscular
produced. Drink date: 2019-2027. fruit, finishing long and spicy. 158 cases
SIGNORELLO PADRONE 2014
Score: 92 (Erin Brooks, robertparker.com, were made. Forget this one in your cellar Napa Valley
March 14, 2019) for 3-4 years and drink it over the next
15+. Drink date: 2020-2035. TASTING NOTE: The 2014 Cabernet
12499 (XD) 750 mL $80.00 Score: 96+ (Lisa Perrotti-Brown, MW, Sauvignon Padrone is a selection of the
robertparker.com, Oct. 31, 2017) best block and barrels on the property.
Sweet tobacco, graphite, plums, chocolate,
11085 (XD) 750 mL $302.00 menthol, licorice and dark stone fruits are
vivid and intense, especially for such a big
HUNDRED ACRE VINEYARD wine. Ample, generous and inviting, the
KAYLI MORGAN VINEYARD DEEP 2014 is shaping up to be a jewel of a wine.
TIME CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2014 Like all the Signorello wines today, the
Napa Valley Padrone exudes silkiness and finesse.
TASTING NOTE: The 2014 Cabernet Drinking window: 2020-2034.
Sauvignon Kayli Morgan Vineyard Deep Score: 94 (Antonio Galloni, vinous.com,
Time spent 48 months in barrel, which Dec. 2016)
is amazing when you consider how vibrant 271304 (XD) 750 mL $230.00
it is. Medium garnet colored, it hits the
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