CLASSICS VINTAGES FINE WINE & PREMIUM SPIRITS
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Harvesting Cabernet Sauvignon grapes in Bordeaux. ON THE COVER: The 15th-century church of Sainte-Claire, near the village of Précy in Chablis, sits surrounded by Sauvignon Blanc vineyards.
February & March 2014 CLASSICS COLLECTION New monthly collections on vintagesshoponline.com ! We’re excited to announce that we are now releasing a new Classics Collection every month. This catalogue includes both the February and March 2014 collections, each with its own order date. The collections can be viewed and purchased via our new, improved VINTAGES Shop Online site. All orders will be filled on a first-come, first-served basis! See page 52 for ordering start dates and other important details.
TABLE OF CONTENTS February 2014 Collection FEBRUARY 2014 COLLECTION Italian wine lovers will be delighted to discover that 4 FRANCE this edition of Classics includes a fine assortment from Piedmont, including several examples of 2008 Barolo, 12 GERMANY a vintage worthy of considerable attention. Fans of the 12 HUNGARY Rhône will take special note of the assortment from the 2009, 2010 and 2011 vintages. 12 ITALY In the New World, we have a very exciting lineup high- 18 PORTUGAL lighted by the 2003 Dunn Vineyards Howell Mountain 18 SPAIN Cabernet Sauvignon, which earned a rating of 95 points from Robert Parker Jr., and the 2009 Shafer Hillside 19 AUSTRALIA Select Cabernet Sauvignon, which Antonio Galloni of 21 USA erobertparker.com awarded 98 points. 23 FORTIFIED WINE March 2014 Collection 24 SPIRITS At the heart of this edition, again from Italy, are the 2007 Brunellos. The 2010 Burgundies are here too, with a MARCH 2014 COLLECTION selection of fine reds and whites. Take special care not to miss the exquisite 2011 Quinta do Noval Nacional 26 FRANCE Vintage Port, which earned a rating of 98-100 points from erobertparker.com. There are also several exciting offerings 31 GERMANY from Vega-Sicilia, including the Unico Reserva Especial. 32 ITALY The New World makes a splash with a nice assortment 37 SPAIN from California, including three 2009 wines from Vérité: Le Désir, La Muse and La Joie. 38 AUSTRALIA These are but a few highlights. We invite you to explore 39 NEW ZEALAND all of the outstanding wines waiting to be discovered within our Collections. 39 SOUTH AFRICA 39 USA 42 FORTIFIED WINE 43 DESSERT WINE Introducing a faster, easier online shopping 43 SPIRITS experience! See page 52 for details. ONLINE ORDERING STARTS 44 PRODUCT SUMMARIES February Collection: February 20 at 8:30 am 52 ORDERING INFORMATION March Collection: March 6 at 8:30 am VINTAGE CHART VINTAGESSHOPONLINE.COM The Vintage Chart is available on our website at First-come, first-served. Shop early for best vintages.com/vintagechart selection. Prior to ordering start date, collections can be viewed online at vintages.com/classics. tOPPOSITE: Morning mist burns off the vineyards beyond the 13th-century 2 VINTAGES castle at Grinzane Cavour in Piedmont.
THE CLASSICS COLLECTION • FEBRUARY 2014 FRANCE – BORDEAUX FRANCE – BURGUNDY TAUPENOT-MERME MAZOYÈRES CHAMBERTIN GRAND CRU 2011 AC WHITE WINE CÔTE DE NUITS TASTING NOTE: The 2011 RED WINE Mazoyeres-Chambertin Grand Cru, CHÂTEAU COUTET 2007 which is populated by 54-year-old AC Barsac, 1er Cru DOMAINE TAUPENOT-MERME vines with a propensity for small berries TASTING NOTE: Offers fascinating MOREY SAINT DENIS LA RIOTTE due to millerandage, has a fuller aromas of cooked apple, clove and 1er CRU 2011 and more aromatic bouquet when honey that follow through to a full body, AC compared directly against the with superlively acidity and spicy TASTING NOTE: The 2011 Morey St. Charmes-Chambertin 2011, perfumed blanched almond and honey character Denis 1er Cru La Riotte, which comes with lascivious ripe strawberry and on the palate. Long and powerful, from a 0.56-hectare parcel, sports a cranberry aromas suffused with cold showing amazing botrytis character, pretty, feminine bouquet with light stone. The palate is medium-bodied with so much spice and richness, red cherry, fresh strawberry and dried with supple and fine tannins. It has a yet also freshness. Even better than rose petal. The palate is medium- pleasant build in the mouth and yet the superb 2006. Best after 2015. bodied with fine tannins and very good the finish is understated, classic in style Score: 95 (James Suckling, wine- focus. No, there is not the length of a and very refined. This is just a Maz- spectator.com, March 31, 2010) more benevolent season, but there is oyeres that you will want to abscond great poise and tension allied with a with. Drink now-2022. Score: 92 248740 [S] 750 mL $88 directness that would make it a superb (Neal Martin, erobertparker.com, match at the dinner table. Drink Aug. 2013) now-2017. Score: 90 (Neal Martin, CHÂTEAU GILETTE erobertparker.com, Aug. 2013) 13854 [XD] 750 mL $206 CRÈME DE TÊTE 1982 AC Sauternes 42648 [XD] 750 mL $138 TASTING NOTE: Very roasted in profile, with maple, date and green tea notes and lots of crème brûlée, but it’s still light and well-defined through the finish, with a hint of dried orange peel adding lift. Tasted non-blind at the château. Score: 95 (James Molesworth, winespectator.com, web only, 2012) 048975 [S] 750 mL $325 4 VINTAGES
THE CLASSICS COLLECTION • FEBRUARY 2014 LOUIS JADOT CLOS DE LA ROCHE CÔTE DE BEAUNE WHITE WINE GRAND CRU 2010 RED WINE AC LOUIS JADOT TASTING NOTE: The 2010 Clos de DOMAINE FAIVELEY CLOS DES BIENVENUES-BÂTARD- la Roche is dark, voluptuous and CORTONS FAIVELEY CORTON MONTRACHET GRAND CRU 2010 seductive. Black cherries, mint, spices GRAND CRU 2011 and graphite flesh out on the mid- AC AC palate and finish. The Clos de la Roche TASTING NOTE: Good deep red. A bit TASTING NOTE: The 2010 Bienvenues boasts gorgeous inner sweetness and darker on the nose than the grand Batard-Montrachet is a seriously perfume, with big, yet fine, tannins that crus from Gevrey-Chambertin, offering gorgeous wine. Endless layers of sweet, frame the fruit through to the finish. explosive aromas of crushed raspberry, perfumed white stone fruits caress The style is rather immediate, but I black cherry, exotic spices and a touch the palate in this utterly impeccable don’t see anything wrong with that. of smoke. Compellingly rich and seam- Burgundy. The 2010 is all about Anticipated maturity: 2025-2035. less in the mouth, with terrific sappy finesse and class. Light floral, honeyed Score: 94-96 (Antonio Galloni, erobert- verve to the urgent flavors of red notes wrap around the weightless, parker.com, Feb. 2012) berries, minerals and game. The very gracious finish. The Bienvenues simply long, slowly rising finish boasts out- oozes with class, but it also closes 344846 [XD] 750 mL $235 standing energy and thrust and satu- down quickly in the glass. Patience is rates the mouth with sweet perfume. the key. Anticipated maturity: 2020. Score: 93-96 (Stephen Tanzer, Inter- Score: 96 (Antonio Galloni, erobert- MAISON ROCHE DE BELLENE national Wine Cellar, Jan./Feb. 2013) parker.com, Aug. 2012) CHARMES-CHAMBERTIN 2010 AC 722249 [XD] 750 mL $209 340364 [XD] 750 mL $358 TASTING NOTE: A reserved but quite pretty and attractively layered nose speaks of earth, fresh wild red berry LOUIS JADOT fruit and humus. The mouth feel is BATARD-MONTRACHET rich, suave and refined thanks in large GRAND CRU 2009 part to the fine-grained tannins that AC coat the palate on the moderately deep TASTING NOTE: Jadot’s 2009 Batard- but well-balanced and strikingly per- Montrachet is rich, layered, sensual sistent finish. Note that while the tan- and totally beguiling. This is yet another nins may be quite fine, they are dense 2009 Jadot white with stunning and this will certainly require ample vibrancy and freshness. Slate, smoke cellar time before it’s completely and crushed rocks are some of the ready for prime time. Drink 2025+. notes that develop in the glass, adding Score: 91-94 (Allen Meadows, burg- complexity to the highly expressive, hound.com, April 2012) nuanced fruit. Anticipated maturity: 2014+. (Antonio Galloni, erobert- 343681 [XD] 750 mL $170 parker.com, Aug. 2012) 635003 [XD] 750 mL $357 VINTAGES 5
THE CLASSICS COLLECTION • FEBRUARY 2014 FRANCE – BURGUNDY DOMAINE JEAN-MARC BROCARD MÂCONNAIS VAULORENTS CHABLIS 1er CRU WHITE WINE 2010 CHABLIS AC CHÂTEAU-FUISSÉ VIEILLES WHITE WINE TASTING NOTE: An expansive nose VIGNES POUILLY-FUISSÉ 2010 with a pronounced floral character is AC DOMAINE WILLIAM FÈVRE trimmed in soft wood and sea shore TASTING NOTE: The 2010 Chateau- BOUGROS CHABLIS GRAND CRU nuances. In contrast to the Montée Fuisse Vieilles Vignes has an entrancing 2011 de Tonnerre, this is beautifully complex bouquet with apricot, orange blossom, AC with fine richness to the mouth coat- cold stone and just a hint of licorice. TASTING NOTE: This also displays ing, round and ultra-refined flavors that The palate is very well-balanced with an abundance of classic Chablis possess a silky mouth feel before a generous aniseed-tinged opening. character with iodine, tidal pool and terminating in a balanced, focused and There is certainly good weight in the ripe green fruit aromas that precede impressively persistent finish. Lovely mouth, although personally I prefer dense, muscular and overtly powerful juice. Drink: 2015+. Special designa- the tension demonstrated by the 2011. flavors that culminate in a saline- tion: Outstanding. Score: 92 (Allen Still, this is a magnificent wine that infused and impressively persistent Meadows, burghound.com, Sept. 10, will age with style. Drink 2015-2025. finish where a touch of wood surfaces. 2012) Score: 93 (Neal Martin, erobertpark- As Bougros typically is, this is a big wine er.com, Aug. 2013) with almost painful intensity. While 581710 [XD] 750 mL $40 this slightly smoky effort isn’t particularly 947721 [XD] 750 mL $59 refined, it is certainly dramatic and imposing. Drink: 2018+. Special des- JEAN-MARC BROCARD VALMUR ignation: Don’t Miss! Score: 92-94 CHABLIS GRAND CRU 2010 (Allen Meadows, burghound.com, AC Sept. 10, 2012) TASTING NOTE: Bright pale yellow. Spicy, high-pitched aromas of peach, 941229 [XD] 750 mL $73 crushed stone, quinine and wild herbs. Concentrated, vibrant and sharply delineated, conveying a strong soil character to the high-pitched citrus, floral and mineral flavors. Lovely har- monious acidity contributes to the wine’s impression of energy. The long, rising, perfumed finish is suave and fine-grained. Score: 92(+?) (Stephen Tanzer, International Wine Cellar, July 2012) 206151 [XD] 750 mL $68 6 VINTAGES
THE CLASSICS COLLECTION • FEBRUARY 2014 FRANCE – RHÔNE LAURUS HERMITAGE 2010 DOMAINE DU COULET AC TERRASSES DU SERRE (Gabriel Meffre) CORNAS 2009 NORTHERN RHÔNE TASTING NOTE: A broad, roasted, AC RED WINE smoky style, offering bay and chestnut TASTING NOTE: This really stands flavors up front, followed by notes of apart from the crowd, with searingly ALAIN VOGE VIEILLES VIGNES singed cedar, warm currant confiture intense minerality cutting through a CORNAS 2011 and mulled blackberry. A bittersweet massive core of pastis, plum sauce AC cocoa note lingers on the muscular and fig paste. Gorgeous violet and spice TASTING NOTE: A remarkable effort, finish. Best from 2014 through 2024. notes fill in the background, while the 2011 Cornas Vieilles Vignes is Score: 93 (James Molesworth, wine- charcoal and tar thunder through the one of the stars of the vintage. Superbly spectator.com, Oct. 15, 2012) finish. Broad in scope, but still has concentrated with an inky/purple perfect focus. Best from 2013 through color and a layered texture, it reveals 343665 [XD] 750 mL $59 2023. Score: 95 (James Molesworth, copious aromas of blueberries, black- winespectator.com, Oct. 15, 2011) berries and spring flowers intermixed with hints of pen ink, lavender and 359620 [XD] 750 mL $90 graphite. Full-bodied as well as supple and accessible, it should keep for 12-15 years. Score: 94-96 (Robert FERRATON PÈRE & FILS Parker Jr., erobertparker.com, LES GRANDS MÛRIERS Dec. 2012) CORNAS 2009 AC 8177 [XD] 750 mL $83 M. CHAPOUTIER MONIER DE LA TASTING NOTE: Hints of ripe figs, SIZERANNE HERMITAGE 2010 blackberries, blue fruits, charcoal AC and damp earth are present in the EPSILON HERMITAGE 2010 TASTING NOTE: Dark and mouthfill- dark purple-hued 2009 Cornas Les AC ing, with gorgeous ganache and Grands Muriers. This is a classic, old (Cave de Tain) espresso notes up front, followed by style Cornas with relatively civilized TASTING NOTE: A brilliant offering vivid blackberry, boysenberry and tannins as well as impressive purity. that could easily compete with the raspberry fruit. Dense and velvety Consume it over the next 10 years. best growers’ Hermitage is the 2010 through the finish, with a smold- Score: 90-92 (Robert Parker Jr., erob- Hermitage Epsilon. Perhaps the ering edge that lingers wonderfully. ertparker.com, Feb. 2011) greatest wine I have ever tasted from Best from 2014 through 2025. a cooperative, it flirts with perfection. Score: 95 (James Molesworth, wine- 340026 [XD] 750 mL $50 An inky/black/purple color is accom- spectator.com, Oct. 31, 2012) panied by copious aromas of black- berries, creme de cassis, camphor, 182725 [XD] 750 mL $105 charcoal, white flowers and toasty oak. Packaged in a heavy duty glass bottle with a wax capsule, this wine should be reasonably drinkable in 7-10 years and should last for 25-30 years. Kudos to this coop. Score: 98 (Robert Parker Jr., erobertparker.com, Dec. 2012) 352930 [XD] 750 mL $295 VINTAGES 7
THE CLASSICS COLLECTION • FEBRUARY 2014 FRANCE – RHÔNE SOUTHERN RHÔNE FRANCE – ALSACE RED WINE NORTHERN RHÔNE BOSQUET DES PAPES CHANTE WHITE WINE WHITE WINE LE MERLE VIEILLES VIGNES CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 2011 DOMAINE WEINBACH M. CHAPOUTIER AC FURSTENTUM GEWURZTRAMINER CHANTE-ALOUETTE TASTING NOTE: Also beautiful, with 2010 HERMITAGE BLANC 2011 gorgeous raspberry, kirsch, licorice, AC Alsace Grand Cru AC ground pepper and assorted Provencal (Colette, Catherine et Laurence Faller, TASTING NOTE: Possibly the finest herbs, the 2011 Chateauneuf du Prop.-Vign.) cuvee of this wine I have ever tasted, Pape Chante Le Merle Vieilles Vignes TASTING NOTE: Just off-dry, and lush the stunning, rich 2011 Ermitage (first introduced in 1990 and an old and silky, this features finely meshed Chante Alouette comes from three vine blend of 85% Grenache and the vibrant acidity enlivening flavors of separate parcels on Hermitage Hill balance Syrah and Mourvedre) offers candied grapefruit zest, mango, orange (Meal, Les Murets and Chante Alouette) a decidedly pretty (especially for this sorbet, crystallized honey and smoky and reveals plenty of white currant, cuvee), polished profile with full body mineral. Lingering finish. Drink now buttered citrus, tangerine oil and honey- richness, excellent mid-palate depth through 2025. Score: 94 (Alison suckle along with hints of such exotic and a seamless, elegant texture that Napjus, winespectator.com, Oct. 31, fruits as mango. It is a full-bodied, carries through the blockbuster finish. 2012) Montrachet-styled, dry white. Score: 95 Up with the top wines in the vintage, (Robert Parker Jr., erobertparker.com, it is reasonably approachable now, yet 120691 [M] 750 mL $80 Dec. 2012) will evolve gracefully for 15+ years given its balance and harmony. Drink 140541 [XD] 750 mL $80 2015-2026. Score: 94 (Jeb Dunnuck, erobertparker.com, Oct. 2013) 734244 [XD] 750 mL $73 RENÉ MURÉ CLOS ST. LANDELIN VORBOURG VENDANGES TARDIVES GEWÜRZTRAMINER 2010 AC Alsace Grand Cru TASTING NOTE: A hint of caramel adds richness to the flavors of orange granita, pink grapefruit candy, can- taloupe and pickled ginger found in this off-dry and creamy wine. The finish features the wine’s mouthwatering acidity, along with echoes of the fruit. Drink now through 2025. Score: 93 (Alison Napjus, winespectator.com, Nov. 15, 2012) 163147 [M] 500 mL $42 8 VINTAGES
THE CLASSICS COLLECTION • FEBRUARY 2014 DOMAINES SCHLUMBERGER FRANCE – CHAMPAGNE GOSSET GRAND ROSÉ CUVÉE ANNE SÉLECTION BRUT CHAMPAGNE DE GRAINS NOBLES AC GEWÜRZTRAMINER 2009 CHAMPAGNE The lot number for this product may AC Alsace vary from the one reviewed by Inter- TASTING NOTE: There’s a melt-in-your- GASTON CHIQUET national Wine Cellar, but the winery mouth creaminess to this lush version, GRAND CRU BLANC DE BLANCS strives for a consistent house style which shows a core of lychee, pink D’AŸ BRUT CHAMPAGNE for its non-vintage Champagnes. grapefruit zest and mango flavors, AC accented by orange blossom, honey, TASTING NOTE: The estate’s NV Brut TASTING NOTE: (L202 9110): Bright chamomile and smoke. Vibrant, with Blanc de Blancs d’Ay is once again orange. High-pitched, floral-accented seamless integration and refined tex- simply striking. An exotic melange of aromas of citrus fruits, red berries and ture throughout. Drink now through green pears, flowers, crushed rocks toasty lees. Sappy, concentrated 2029. Score: 94 (Alison Napjus, wine- and jasmine emerge gracefully from strawberry and orange zest flavors are spectator.com, Nov. 15, 2012) this effortless, totally beguiling wine. firmed by a nervy spine of acidity The 2004 has an inner perfume and and gain weight with aeration. Taut and 343715 [S] 750 mL $125 pure sweetness that is captivating. focused, with noteworthy finishing Ay is much more famous for its Pinot cut, thrust and length. Score: 92 (Josh Noir, but Chiquet’s Chardonnay is Raynolds, International Wine Cellar, ROLLY GASSMANN KAPPELWEG flat-out gorgeous. Disgorgement date: Dec. 2012) RIESLING 2009 February 2012. Anticipated maturity: AC Alsace 2012-2018. Score: 92 (Antonio 989442 [D] 750 mL $81 TASTING NOTE: The Rolly Gassmann Galloni, erobertparker.com, Nov. 2012) 2009 Riesling Kappelweg Vendange Tardive smells seductively and com- 63768 [XD] 750 mL $52 GOSSET GRANDE RÉSERVE plexly of white truffle and fresh lime, BRUT CHAMPAGNE gardenia and acacia, overripe peach AC and cyanic peach kernel. Its satiny, Although Antonio Galloni is referring expansive palate is persistently, sweetly, to a different lot number, as with their and decadently perfumed with lily rosé bubbly above, the winemaker and gardenia, while nut oils and honey strives to maintain a consistent house add a further dimension of richness. style for its non-vintage Champagnes. This [soothes] and seduces in a linger- ing, multi-layered, truly nobly sweet TASTING NOTE: The NV Brut Grande finish. Expect it to last for at least a Reserve opens with a bouquet of quarter century. Score: 92 (David chalk, slate and wet stones. It is a beau- Schildknecht, erobertparker.com, tifully pointed, energetic wine en- May 2011) dowed with gorgeous drive from start to finish. Red berries, dried flowers 343756 [MS] 750 mL $43 and mint are some of the nuances that inform the finish.This is Lot # L0428123. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2016. Score: 91 (Antonio Galloni, erobert- parker.com, Nov. 2011) 344945 [XD] 750 mL $73 VINTAGES 9
THE CLASSICS COLLECTION • FEBRUARY 2014 FRANCE – CHAMPAGNE GOSSET CELEBRIS EXTRA BRUT BOIZEL JOYAU DE FRANCE CHAMPAGNE 1998 CHAMPAGNE 1996 AC AC CHAMPAGNE “I was extremely impressed with the The 2010 Guide Hachette awarded wines I tasted from Gosset. The this wine a Coup de Coeur and its VARNIER-FANNIERE CUVÉE house style is one of finely-sculpted highest rating of HHH, denoting an ST-DENIS BRUT CHAMPAGNE wines that possess striking clarity Exceptional Wine. AC and precision. Gosset favors oak aging TASTING NOTE: This fresh, open-knit for their top selections and malo- TASTING NOTE: 60% Pinot Noir, 40% version features a floral overtone to lactic fermentation is always blocked. Chardonnay. Roasted hazelnuts and the flavors of blackberry pâte de fruit, The top of the line Celebris range biscuity aromas, quite a bit of earthy bread dough, golden raisin and slivered sees very low dosage. From top to character, chalk, wet pebbles, a little almond. Lightly spiced finish. Disgorged bottom this is an exceptional line- bit of wild strawberries. Crisp, fine bubs, May 2012. Drink now. Score: 90 (Alison up from one of Champagne’s most great intensity. Long minerally finish. Napjus, winespectator.com, web only, historic houses.” (Antonio Galloni, Score: 93 (Lisa Perrotti-Brown, MW, 2013) erobertparker.com, Dec. 2008) erobertparker.com, March 2010) 343673 [XD] 750 mL $69 TASTING NOTE: The 1998 Extra 360461 [D] 750 mL $135 Brut Vintage Celebris is a beautifully focused, linear wine that sparkles on the palate with the essence of white peaches, pears, quince and flowers. This medium-bodied yet structured wine offers phenomenal persistence, along with chalky, minerally notes that give the wine its superb liveliness and sense of freshness. Like many wines in this line-up, the 1998 Extra Brut Vintage Celebris is a beautiful, contemplative wine that deserves serious attention. This is a great effort. The blend is 64% Chardonnay and 36% Pinot Noir. The cork is labeled C 7202, and this bottle was dis- gorged early December, 2007. Anti- cipated maturity: 2010-2020. Score: 96 (Antonio Galloni, erobert- parker.com, Dec. 2008) 344952 [XD] 750 mL $169 10 VINTAGES
THE CLASSICS COLLECTION • FEBRUARY 2014 FRANCE – LOIRE FRANCE – MIDI FRANCE – SOUTHWEST WHITE WINE RED WINE RED WINE DOMAINE DES BAUMARD CHÂTEAU SAINT-ROCH CLOS TRIGUEDINA PROBUS QUARTS DE CHAUME 2009 KERBUCCIO 2011 CAHORS 2008 AC AP Maury Sec AC TASTING NOTE: Bold, lush and trop- TASTING NOTE: The backside of this (Jean-Luc Baldès) ical in feel, with creamed papaya region is Corbieres, but this opaque TASTING NOTE: There is great power, and mango notes seamlessly gliding purple-colored 2011 Kerbuccio would yet balance here. The wine has firm, together, while coconut, green plum, blow away just about any Corbieres. rich fruits, with solid dark tannins to go ginger, quince and white peach flavors A wine of great intensity, it offers up with layers of fresh acidity and a fill in the background. Offers a suc- copious floral, blackberry and blue- dense texture. Obviously for aging, this culent finish, but stays pure and steady berry fruit intermixed with hints of char- is an impressive statement of Malbec. thanks to perfectly embedded acid- coal, scorched earth and wet rocks. Score: 93 (Roger Voss, Wine Enthu- ity. Best from 2015 through 2030. Dense and full-bodied with tremendous siast, Dec. 15, 2010) Score: 96 (James Molesworth, wine- richness and supple tannins, this spectator.com, Feb. 28, 2013) beauty should drink well for 5-7 years, 7260 [XD] 750 mL $51 possibly longer. Score: 95 (Robert 358622 [MS] 750 mL $99 Parker Jr., erobertparker.com, Dec. 2012) “One of the top wine values I have ever tasted is from one of the newest appellations in France, Maury Sec. Maury produces abundant sweet wines (largely from Grenache), but this is a totally dry red made from 40% Syrah, 30% Mourvedre and 30% Gre- nache aged in concrete tanks for 8 months, and bottled unfiltered. It comes from the black schist soils of this appellation.” (Robert Parker Jr., erobertparker.com, Dec. 2012) 343731 [XD] 750 mL $42 VINTAGES 11
THE CLASSICS COLLECTION • FEBRUARY 2014 GERMANY – HUNGARY ITALY – PIEDMONT MOSEL-SAAR-RUWER WHITE WINE RED WINE WHITE WINE ALANA TOKAJ TOKAJI ANDREA OBERTO ALBARELLA ZILLIKEN SAARBURGER RAUSCH ASZÚESZENCIA 2006 BAROLO 2008 ERSTE LAGE RIESLING AUSLESE Hungary DOCG 2010 TASTING NOTE: Sweet, yet excep- TASTING NOTE: The 2008 Barolo Gold Capsule, Prädikatswein tionally bright, with juicy acidity lifting Albarella is a tasty, fleshy wine (Forstmeister Geltz) the grapefruit, apricot and passion graced with supple red fruit, flowers, TASTING NOTE: Figure on a good fruit notes, as layers of honey, date and spices and licorice. It shows lovely four decades of high-quality life. spice roll on through the superlong mid-palate juiciness and an approach- [Owner/winemaker Hanno] Zilliken’s finish. Drink now through 2030. able personality that makes it very 2010 Saarburger Rausch Riesling Score: 94 (Nathan Wesley, winespec- appealing today. The 2008 can be en- Auslese gold capsule A.P. #4 was, tator.com, Feb. 29, 2012) joyed with minimum cellaring or aged he assures me, rendered in a volume for a few years. Sweet rose petals and closer to what would associate in 346098 [S] 375 mL $167 spices inform the generous finish. normal years with a Spatlese than with The Albarella, from a site in Barolo, even a regular Auslese. “Here there was aged for six months [in] new was a lot more botrytis, yet the fruit was French oak barrels followed by 20 mon- lower in acidity” than for the “regular” ths in 16-hectoliter casks. Antici- Auslesen, he notes by way of among pated maturity: 2013-2023. Score: 93 other things explaining this wine’s (Antonio Galloni, erobertparker.com, caramel overtones and creaminess of April 2013) texture. The nobly fungal, carnal, and musky notes that characterized the 343699 [XD] 750 mL $75 A.P. #5 are present here in spades, another obvious legacy of its advanced botrytization. Ennobled richness of caramelized peach and mango; con- centrated lime and pink grapefruit; honeysuckle, rowan and orange blos- som; as well as creamy and caressing textural allure improbable for this vin- tage (and given what is still extremely high acidity) are here allied to the sort of transparency to stony, saline, smoky, and crystalline nuances that was otherwise achieved in the present collection only “way back” with the Spatlese A.P. #8. This finishes with a shimmering cascade of fruit essences and mineral matter. I imagine it will dazzle over the next half century. Score: 97 (David Schildknecht, erobert- parker.com, Feb. 2012) 345785 [S] 375 mL $75 12 VINTAGES
THE CLASSICS COLLECTION • FEBRUARY 2014 BORGOGNO FOSSATI CORDERO DI MONTEZEMOLO MOCCAGATTA BASARIN BAROLO 2008 VIGNA ENRICO VI BAROLO 2008 BARBARESCO 2008 DOCG DOCG DOCG TASTING NOTE: The 2008 Barolo TASTING NOTE: A seductive red, TASTING NOTE: The emphasis is on Fossati is my personal favorite thanks complex and layered, beginning with the fruit in this round, smooth red, to the stunning aromas that emanate its eucalyptus and tobacco-scented featuring cherry, plum, eucalyptus and from this wine. I find those mineral cherry to the rose petal and raspberry mineral flavors. The structure is notes absolutely divine, they are chalky notes that emerge along the way. there, with the refined tannins covered without being dusty and so finely Harmonious yet firm, with a long after- by fruit and flesh now. A hint of etched and chiseled overall. They help taste of sweet fruit and spice. Best oak graces the finish. Best from 2014 pull the aromas straight up and out from 2014 through 2030. Score: 94 through 2027. Score: 94 (Bruce of the glass and are soon followed by (Bruce Sanderson, Sanderson, winespectator.com, more substantial notes of pressed winespectator.com, Nov. 30, 2012) April 30, 2012) blue flower, licorice, cola, tar and dried ginger. It offers a vertical aromatic 22020 [XD] 750 mL $112 342840 [XD] 750 mL $68 delivery, in which each descriptor is pulled from the bottle like a chain of pearls, rather than a horizontal delivery MASCARELLO MONPRIVATO in which all the perfumes hit you at BAROLO 2008 once. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2030. DOCG Score: 95 (Monica Larner, erobert- TASTING NOTE: Detailed and fragrant, parker.com, June 2013) offering floral, strawberry, cherry, licorice and spice flavors, this is ele- 367037 [XD] 750 mL $62 gant and underlined by a strong mineral streak. Well-proportioned, picking up intensity and complexity on the long, savory finish. Extremely fresh and classy. Best from 2016 through 2035. Score: 95 (Bruce San- derson, winespectator.com, April 30, 2013) 284323 [XD] 750 mL $165 VINTAGES 13
THE CLASSICS COLLECTION • FEBRUARY 2014 ITALY – PIEDMONT CORINO VIGNA GIACHINI LA SPINETTA VIGNETO CAMPE BAROLO 2007 VÜRSÙ BAROLO 2007 DOCG DOCG RED WINE TASTING NOTE: The 2007 Barolo TASTING NOTE: There is no doubt the Giachini opens with a beguiling, cap- 2007 Barolo Campe is impressive. It SEGHESIO VIGNETO LA VILLA tivating bouquet redolent of tar, smoke, is a beautifully balanced wine layered BAROLO 2008 French oak and wild cherries, all of with opulent, super-ripe fruit, new DOCG which come together in the finely-knit leather and licorice. The French oak is TASTING NOTE: The 2008 Barolo voice that is unique to this La Morra beautifully balanced in this broad- Vigneto La Villa emerges from the vineyard. The Giachini stands out for shouldered Barolo, while the fruit avoids glass with generous dark red fruit, its exceptional length, finely nuanced the overripe tendencies of the past. flowers, menthol, pine and licorice, fruit and lovely overall balance. Hints The wine holds up perfectly in the all supported by firm, massive tannins. of Pinot linger on the close. Anticipated glass, which hasn’t always been the French oak gives the wine volume maturity: 2017-2027. Score: 94 case. Tar, licorice and spices wrap and textural depth, but without being (Antonio Galloni, erobertparker.com, around the intense finish. This is intrusive. A plush, authoritative finish Feb. 2011) the finest vintage of Campe to date. rounds out this stylish, totally fabulous Kudos to Giorgio Rivetti and his team Barolo. Anticipated maturity: 2018- 297259 [XD] 750 mL $60 for this fabulous effort. To be released 2028. Score: 94 (Antonio Galloni, in 2012. Anticipated maturity: 2014- erobertparker.com, April 2012) 2024. Score: 95 (Antonio Galloni, erobertparker.com, Oct. 2011) 341982 [XD] 750 mL $65 343632 [D] 750 mL $177 BATASIOLO VIGNETO CORDA DELLA BRICCOLINA BAROLO 2007 DOCG TASTING NOTE: An alluring red, this offers perfumed aromas of flowers, cherry and tar followed by juicy cherry, raspberry, licorice and spice flavors. Flesh covers the structure well, but could benefit from aging. Best from 2014 through 2030. Score: 95 (Bruce Sanderson, winespectator.com, Nov. 30, 2012) 992271 [XD] 750 mL $74 14 VINTAGES
THE CLASSICS COLLECTION • FEBRUARY 2014 MASCARELLO SANTO ITALY – TUSCANY DEI SANCTA CATHARINA 2009 STEFANO DI PERNO BAROLO 2006 IGT Toscana DOCG TASTING NOTE: A wine with lovely TASTING NOTE: The 2006 Barolo RED WINE ripe fruits such as strawberries and Santo Stefano di Perno is a decidedly cherries with hints of new wood. Full more important and interesting wine BRANCAIA ILATRAIA 2010 and very velvety with a pretty balance in this vintage. A fresh, vibrant hue IGT Maremma Toscana between fruit, wood and acidity. Always leads to glorious dark fruit, menthol, Ranked #86 in Wine Spectator’s excellent. Cabernet Sauvignon. Better spices and sweet medicinal herbs. Ele- Top 100 Wines of 2012. in 2014. Score: 94 (James Suckling, ments of classic austerity and ripeness jamessuckling.com, Aug. 29, 2012) play off each other as this structured, TASTING NOTE: This is pure and powerful Barolo opens up in the glass. oh-so-silky, featuring flavors of black 139410 [XD] 750 mL $46 This is a fabulous vintage for the Santo currant, violet and sweet spice, with Stefano di Perno. Anticipated maturity: a hint of tobacco. The supple texture 2016-2031. Score: 94 (Antonio Galloni, is offset by refined tannins as this VIGNAMAGGIO CABERNET FRANC erobertparker.com, Dec. 2010) cruises to a long aftertaste of black 2009 currant and spice. Cabernet Sauvignon, IGT Toscana 343749 [XD] 750 mL $130 Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc. Best TASTING NOTE: A bright, scented from 2014 through 2024. Score: 94 red, exuding black currant and olive (Bruce Sanderson, aromas and flavors, with a touch of winespectator.com, Oct. 31, 2012) graphite all wrapped in a supple tex- ture. Balanced and solid, with a long, 685230 [XD] 750 mL $69 mouthwatering finish. Best from 2013 through 2023. Score: 93 (Bruce Sanderson, winespectator.com, CASTELLO DI AMA L’APPARITA Oct. 15, 2012) 2009 IGT Toscana 236190 [XD] 750 mL $59 TASTING NOTE: The 2009 L’Apparita (Merlot) wraps around the palate with layers of fruit. The more seamless side of Apparita is on display, yet at the same time there is plenty of tannin underpinning the fruit. Juicy dark cherries, plums, flowers and tobacco wrap around the finish. As always, L’Apparita is one of the more interesting Merlots in Tuscany. It is first and foremost a wine of Chianti Classico. Anticipated maturity: 2019-2029. Score: 95 (Antonio Galloni, erobert- parker.com, June 2012) 39776 [XD] 750 mL $215 VINTAGES 15
THE CLASSICS COLLECTION • FEBRUARY 2014 ITALY – TUSCANY COL D’ORCIA POGGIO AL VENTO ITALY – TRENTINO RISERVA BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2004 RED WINE DOCG RED WINE TASTING NOTE: The 2004 Brunello di TENUTA DI TRINORO 2008 Montalcino Riserva Poggio al Vento SAN LEONARDO 2006 IGT Toscana is developing beautifully. This is a IGT Vigneti delle Dolomiti TASTING NOTE: The 2008 Tenuta di decidedly feminine, graceful style (Tenuta San Leonardo) Trinoro sweeps across the palate with of Poggio al Vento. The wine literally The 2013 Gambero Rosso guide layers of beautifully articulated fruit, floats on the palate with gracious awarded this wine its highest violets, spices and minerals, while layers of fruit. Silky tannins support rating of BBB. avoiding the heaviness and overripe- sweet red berries, flowers and spices ness that characterized some of the on the mouthwatering finish. The 2004 TASTING NOTE: The 2006 San Leo- wines of the past. The tannins and the is flat-out beautiful. This was a rela- nardo boasts striking inner perfume, oak both need several years to fully tively generous harvest, and that comes great purity and fabulous overall bal- harmonize, but this is a soft, impec- through in the wine’s medium-bodied ance. A large, broad-shouldered red, cably refined Tenuta to treasure over structure. Anticipated maturity: 2014- the 2006 shows off layers of expressive the next two decades, perhaps longer. 2044. Score: 95+ (Antonio Galloni, dark fruit, grilled herbs, licorice and The 2008 Tenuta is approximately erobertparker.com, May 2012) new leather, all supported by firm yet 40% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Franc, 15% well-integrated tannins. The 2006 is Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Petit 343640 [XD] 1500 mL $285 impressive today, but it is built to last Verdot. Anticipated maturity: 2014- for decades. The flagship San Leonardo 2028. Score: 96+ (Antonio Galloni, is 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% MW, erobertparker.com, Oct. 2010) LAZZERETTI RISERVA Cabernet Franc and 10% Merlot aged BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2004 in French oak barrels. Anticipated 343707 [XD] 750 mL $359 DOCG maturity: 2016-2036. Score: 94 TASTING NOTE: The layers of rich, (Antonio Galloni, erobertparker.com, opulent fruit make you want to drink Feb. 2012) this now. There’s so much berry, prune, chocolate and coffee character, with 32474 [XD] 750 mL $74 ripe, velvety tannins. All there. You can open this now or hold on. Drink now through 2018. Score: 95 (James Suckling, winespectator.com, Oct. 31, 2010) 241299 [XD] 750 mL $96 16 VINTAGES
THE CLASSICS COLLECTION • FEBRUARY 2014 ITALY – VENETO CORTE SAN BENEDETTO WHITE WINE AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO 2007 RED WINE DOC INAMA VIGNETO DU LOT Gold Medal winner at the 2012 SOAVE CLASSICO 2010 INAMA BRADISISMO 2008 Mundus Vini. DOC IGT Veneto TASTING NOTE: Aromas of very ripe The 2013 Gambero Rosso guide TASTING NOTE: (Barrel sample) apple and tarte tatin. Full and rich awarded this wine its BBB. Deep black almandine with black re- with layers of tropical fruit and toasted flections and cherry rim. Powerful oak. Oily. Yet balanced and long with TASTING NOTE: Nose of spices and nose with a great deal of cedar, [which] creamy, dried fruit flavors. Gorgeous. chili aromas with hints of dried cherries overshadows all else. On the palate Barrel fermented 30%. Drink now. and currants. Full-bodied, with silky it’s ample and soft with plum prune Score: 94 (James Suckling, james- tannins and a delicious finish. Hints of fruit supported by acidity that’s a suckling.com, June 7, 2013) caramel and toasted oak. Why wait? little cheekier than I expected, and by This is 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and tannins that have a youthful peppery 361535 [XD] 750 mL $38 30% Carmenere. Score: 93 (James burr. (Kyle Phillips, Italian Wine Review, Suckling, jamessuckling.com, March 4, 2011) June 7, 2013) 358523 [D] 750 mL $68 v 732198 [XD] 750 mL $47 v ZENATO SERGIO ZENATO RISERVA AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO 2007 DOC TASTING NOTE: Mouthwatering, with lush notes of black cherry coulis, raspberry ganache, strawberry pre- serves, ground anise and espresso. Fine-grained tannins frame this vibrant, silky red, with smoke, dried herb and spice notes echoing on the lasting finish. Drink now through 2028. Score: 94 (Alison Napjus, winespectator.com, Sept. 30, 2013) 132316 [XD] 750 mL $75 VINTAGES 17
THE CLASSICS COLLECTION • FEBRUARY 2014 PORTUGAL SPAIN EMILIO MORO MALLEOLUS DE SANCHOMARTIN 2008 DO Ribera del Duero RED WINE RED WINE In 2012, Wine Enthusiast and Wine Spectator awarded this wine scores CV CURRICULUM VITAE 2010 ALVARO PALACIOS FINCA DOFÍ of 93 and 92, respectively. DOC Douro 2011 (Quinta Vale D. Maria) DOCa Priorat TASTING NOTE: The 2008 Malleolus TASTING NOTE: The 2010 CV is the TASTING NOTE: The 2011 Finca Dofi de Sanchomartin was also tasted winery’s celebrated old vines (80+ is a blend of 95% Garnacha and 5% from a barrel sample. Deep purple in years) blend, aged in a mixture of Syrah. It has another exuberant bou- color, it displays beautiful aromatics new (75%) and old barriques for 22 quet, like the older sister of the 2011 that are very seductive. Elegant on months (meaning that this was just Gatrallops, endowed with beautifully the palate with ample underlying bottled in August, 2012, making it a defined floral aromas. There are structure, this is a focused, intense big, young puppy). Happily (about a hints of broom and fennel infusing the offering that will evolve for more than full point) lower in alcohol than last scintillating red fruit and a sorbet-like a decade. Malleolus de Sanchomartin year’s version, this is well balanced freshness. The palate is medium-bodied is sourced from a vineyard planted in while once again being the deepest with a vibrant peppery entry, fanning 1964 with cuttings grafted from the wine in the lineup. If it does not quite across the mouth with succulent red Valderramiro vineyard. Alcoholic fer- seem as fresh and elegant as the currant and wild strawberry fruit. mentation is with indigenous yeasts Vale D. Maria, in its own right it is still The acidity maintains superb balance, with ML in barrel. The wine is then rather harmonious and a pleasure to countering the 14.8% alcohol with aged for 22 months in French oak. drink, a wine that makes its bones ease. There is a firm underlying struc- Score: 94-97 (Jay Miller, erobertpark- with balance and concentration (rela- ture that is only exposed towards er.com, June 2010) tive to the vintage) rather than sweet- the long persistent, mineral-rich finish. ness and power. It should become a Wonderful. Drink 2016-2030+. 342907 [XD] 750 mL $197 remarkably graceful CV in time. It is a Score: 94-96 (Neal Martin, erobert- bit oak tinged at the moment, but parker.com, April 2012) that should be absorbed well. This is super and I think it is a big success, 730184 [XD] 750 mL $93 especially in the context of this vin- tage. It should be approachable young, but of course it will benefit from a few years in the cellar to allow it to develop some expressiveness. It tightens noticeably with air. There were 6,000 bottles produced, plus some large format bottles. Drink 2015-2026. Score: 94 (Mark Squires, erobertparker.com, Dec. 2012) 341974 [XD] 750 mL $115 18 VINTAGES
THE CLASSICS COLLECTION • FEBRUARY 2014 CONFESOR 2004 AUSTRALIA FIRST DROP FAT OF THE LAND DOCa Rioja EBENEZER SHIRAZ 2010 (Bodegas Vinicola Real) Barossa Valley, South Australia TASTING NOTE: The flagship 2004 RED WINE TASTING NOTE: Deep garnet-purple Confesor comes from a two-hectare in color, the 2010 Fat of the Land plot of 73-year-old vines that yield 1kg DOMAINE TOURNON Ebenezer Shiraz exudes blackberry tart, per vine, made from Tempranillo, LADY’S LANE VINEYARD crushed black currants and dried Garnacha, Graciano and Mazuelo. After SHIRAZ 2010 mint aromas with an undercurrent of de-stemming and crushing, it is fer- Victoria forest floor, cedar and lavender. Full- mented in an open barrel where it is Domaine Tournon is the Australian bodied and tightly-knit with a crisp acid raised over 14 months. It has a very home of one of the Rhône Valley's line and firm, rounded tannins it is complex bouquet of effervescent red- most renowned producers, Michel finishing long and layered. Drink it from berry fruit, blood orange, chalk Chapoutier. The ancient red Cam- 2014 to 2024+. Score: 95+ (Lisa and crushed stone that is beautifully brian soils of Heathcote are located in Perrotti-Brown, MW, defined. The palate is very well-bal- one of Australia's most prized premi- erobertparker.com, Feb. 2013) anced with fine but grippy tannins. It um Shiraz regions. Little surprise then is very natural, with a rustic pedigree that one of Rhône’s greatest voices 303339 [XD] 750 mL $73 and superb freshness and personality would want to explore the possibilities towards the finish. Superb. Drink offered by this region. The wines 2015-2025+. Score: 94 (Neal Martin, created here, in what might be con- erobertparker.com, Aug. 2012) sidered the second home of Shiraz, are simply spectacular. Robert Parker 342923 [XD] 750 mL $171 awarded Tournon's 2010 Lady’s Lane a score of 95 points in December 2011, though he did not include an accom- panying review, allowing the M. Cha- poutier name, and the 95 points, to speak for themselves. 297465 [D] 750 mL $70 v VINTAGES 19
THE CLASSICS COLLECTION • FEBRUARY 2014 AUSTRALIA PENFOLDS RWT SHIRAZ 2010 WHITE WINE Barossa Valley, South Australia TASTING NOTE: Deep garnet-purple LEEUWIN ESTATE ART SERIES RED WINE in color, the 2010 RWT Shiraz is CHARDONNAY 2009 a little closed showing intense and Margaret River, Western Australia PENFOLDS BIN 707 youthful primary aromas of cassis, TASTING NOTE: A deftly balanced CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2010 kirsch, cedar, prunes and a touch of Chardonnay of tremendous depth South Australia mulberries. Rich, muscular, packed without much weight, floating its pear, TASTING NOTE: Deep garnet-purple with flavor, it is full-bodied, concen- quince, floral and orange marmalade colored, the 2010 Bin 707 Cabernet trated and finishes long with oak still flavors through to the end. It’s the finish Sauvignon is an earthier style display- poking out. Very youthful still, it will that makes this special, balancing all ing classic aromas of cassis, plum drink from 2014 to 2026+. Score: 93+ the elements effortlessly and lingering and pencil shavings with some earth, (Lisa Perrotti-Brown, MW, erobert- on and on. Drink now through 2025. olives, spice box and cloves. Very parker.com, Feb. 2013) Special designation: Highly Recom- structured by firm, grainy tannins, it mended. Score: 96 (Harvey Steiman, is concentrated and muscular with 564278 [XD] 750 mL $150 winespectator.com, March 31, 2012) good acid freshness through the long and layered finish. It needs 1-2 years 619437 [XD] 750 mL $93 more of aging and will drink to 2030+. Score: 95+ (Lisa Perrotti-Brown, MW, erobertparker.com, Feb. 2013) v 414995 [XD] 750 mL $225 v v 20 VINTAGES
THE CLASSICS COLLECTION • FEBRUARY 2014 USA – CALIFORNIA CONTINUUM ESTATE DONUM PINOT NOIR 2010 PROPRIETARY RED 2010 Carneros, Napa Valley Napa Valley TASTING NOTE: Offers ebullient rasp- RED WINE TASTING NOTE: This has been an berry and black cherry flavors that impressive, serious wine since the debut are ripe and seductive, with spice, loam CADE ESTATE vintage, and Tim Mondavi's estate and sandalwood details. Notes of CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2010 high on Pritchard Hill has fashioned cassis, raspberry jam and red licorice Howell Mountain, Napa Valley a 2010 blend of 71% Cabernet Sau- crescendo on the long finish, with (PlumpJack) vignon, 14% Cabernet Franc, 11% very refined tannins. Special designa- TASTING NOTE: The 2010 Cabernet Petit Verdot and 4% Merlot. Gor- tion: Highly Recommended. Drink Sauvignon Estate Howell Mountain geously ripe, intricate and nuanced, now through 2023. Score: 95 (MaryAnn stands out for its balance, a rare feat with aromas of spring flowers and Worobiec, winespectator.com, on Howell Mountain in this vintage. red and black fruits, a stunning texture, May 31, 2013) Mocha, chocolate, cloves, plums and sweet tannin, a full-bodied mouthfeel, black cherries meld together effort- and undeniable elegance and finesse, 279786 [XD] 750 mL $90 lessly in this nicely balanced Cabernet this complex beauty cascades over Sauvignon. The 2010 isn’t a block- the palate without a hard edge to be buster, but it is a solid effort for the year. found. It is a tribute to Mondavi's Anticipated maturity: 2015-2025. long resume of skillful winemaking. Score: 94 (Antonio Galloni, erobert- Black currants, blueberries and a parker.com, Dec. 2012) touch of raspberries are all compelling and persistent. Drink this gorgeous 368035 [XD] 750 mL $200 Napa red now and over the next 15+ years. Score: 97 (Robert Parker Jr., erobertparker.com, Oct. 2013) 206276 [XD] 750 mL $229 JANZEN BECKSTOFFER MISSOURI HOPPER VINEYARD CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2009 Napa Valley (Bacio Divino Cellars) TASTING NOTE: This is a stunning example of modern-day Napa Cab- ernet Sauvignon. It’s soft, complex, smooth and sweet, with a veneer of smoky, caramelized oak coating the flavors of ripe blackberry, black cherry and crème de cassis. It’s really delicious, and made all the more appealing by a fine structure of tannins and acids. Score: 94 (Steve Heimoff, Wine Enthusiast, Sept. 2012) 342881 [XD] 750 mL $105 VINTAGES 21
THE CLASSICS COLLECTION • FEBRUARY 2014 USA – CALIFORNIA STONESTREET BEAR POINT DUNN VINEYARDS CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2009 HOWELL MOUNTAIN Alexander Valley, Sonoma County CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2003 RED WINE TASTING NOTE: The 2009 Cabernet Napa Valley Sauvignon Bear Point comes across as TASTING NOTE: Rich with surprisingly SHAFER HILLSIDE SELECT dark and brooding. Espresso, graphite, soft tannin, this dense plum/ruby/ CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2009 blackberries, cassis and spices emerge purple-colored 2003 Cabernet Sauv- Stags Leap District, Napa Valley from the glass as this dense, opaque ignon exhibits lots of briary mountain TASTING NOTE: The 2009 Cabernet Cabernet Sauvignon shows off its pedi- fruit, blackberries, blueberries and cas- Sauvignon Hillside Select is deep, gree. Layers of expressive perfume sis, outstanding purity, full-bodied racy and layered from the very first are woven throughout the fruit in this power and nicely integrated tannin. taste. A large-scaled, sumptuous wine, open, relatively accessible Cabernet. There is no evidence of toasty oak to the 2009 impresses for its exceptional This is another terrific effort from Stone- be found in this beauty from Randy balance and pure pedigree. There is street and winemaker Graham Weerts. Dunn. Drink it now or cellar it for plenty of flesh here, but also more than Anticipated maturity: 2012-2021. 15+ years. It finished at 13.8% natural enough tannin to help balance some Score: 92 (Antonio Galloni, erobert- alcohol. Score: 95 (Robert Parker Jr., of the wine’s more overt tendencies. A parker.com, Feb. 2012) erobertparker.com, June 2013) dazzling, utterly vivid finish rounds things out in style. This large-scaled, 252353 [XD] 750 mL $69 193839 [XD] 750 mL $129 voluptuous Cabernet Sauvignon should be at its finest between the ages of 10 and 30. Anticipated CORE MISTER MOREVED maturity: 2019-2039. Score: 98 ALTA MESA VINEYARD 2007 (Antonio Galloni, erobertpar- Cuyama Valley, ker.com, Dec. 2012) Santa Barbara County TASTING NOTE: Almost identical to 735712 [XD] 750 mL $299 the 37-Month aged cuvee, yet with a touch more richness and depth, the 2007 Core Mister Moreved Alta Mesa 42-Months is showing every bit as well as it did over a year ago, with savoury aromas of meat, coffee, and graphite that are supported by brilliant cassis and blackberry styled fruits. Full-bodied, mouth filling, and very rich, with impeccable balance and a chewy, le- ngthy finish, this beauty could still use another handful of years in the cellar, and will drink well for 10-12 years or longer. Score: 94 (Jeb Dunnuck, therhonereport.com, Dec. 2011) 365429 [XD] 750 mL $54 22 VINTAGES
THE CLASSICS COLLECTION • FEBRUARY 2014 WHITE WINE USA – OREGON FORTIFIED WINE FLOWERS VINEYARD MOON SELECT RED WINE PORT CHARDONNAY 2009 Camp Meeting Ridge Vineyard, REX HILL PINOT NOIR 2010 KOPKE COLHEITA PORT 1975 Sonoma Coast Willamette Valley DOC Douro TASTING NOTE: A delightfully fragrant, TASTING NOTE: Fresh and focus- TASTING NOTE: This is a lovely rich, yet elegant and delicate expres- ed, with nice transparency to the Colheita, gentle, yet complex and very sion of ripe peach, honeysuckle and blackberry, licorice and floral flavors, graceful, with a powerful nose in spice. Impressive for its lithe body, lingering enticingly on the deft finish. the background, bright acidity and persistence and depth. Fun and refr- Drink now through 2018. Score: 90 considerable charm. It finishes eshing to drink. Drink now through (Harvey Steiman, winespectator.com, sweet and richer than the mid-palate 2018. Score: 94 (James Laube, wine- Dec. 31, 2012) initially suggests as it has those con- spectator.com, Dec. 15, 2011) centrated flavors I adore in Colheitas. 275735 [XD] 750 mL $37 It gather[s] steam and manages 358028 [XD] 750 mL $95 to deliver intensity and concentration while remaining elegant and bal- anced, with some brandy-laced bursts of acidity dancing around. The good acidity gives it a lively feel, but ulti- mately what makes this a beauty is the combination of harmony and intensity, as odd as that sounds. There is some tannic pop on the finish at times, too. It covers all the bases, assertive without being obvious. The more I drank this, the more I liked it. At the price, it is a rather nice deal. Score: 94 (Mark Squires, erobert- parker.com, Nov. 2012) 342964 [S] 750 mL $113 VINTAGES 23
THE CLASSICS COLLECTION • FEBRUARY 2014 FORTIFIED WINE SPIRITS COGNAC THOMAS HINE TRIOMPHE PORT SCOTCH WHISKY GRANDE CHAMPAGNE COGNAC Hine’s Triomphe is aged a minimum KOPKE COLHEITA PORT 1953 HIGHLAND PARK 30 YEARS OLD of 45 years in barrel. DOC Douro ORKNEY ISLANDS SINGLE MALT Bottled 2012 TASTING NOTE: An exemplary High- TASTING NOTE: ... The opening TASTING NOTE: This opens with the land Park. There’s certainly plenty of aromatics are lovely, a touch spicy and powerful aromatics, promising dense sherry influence in this whisky and it mildly sweet in a tropical fruit man- and concentrated juice, that makes me is complementary. (About 2/3 of the ner; following seven minutes of further adore mature Colheitas so much. This whisky was aged on sherry casks, and aeration the bouquet becomes deeper is what it is all about at this end of the a lot of these casks were second fill.) as the oak enters the equation, lending scale. Juicy and sweet on the long The whisky enjoys a delicious foun- weight to the delicately sweet aroma finish, it has bursts of enlivening acidity dation of toffee, fruit (lemon, plum, that also features honey and beeswax. and some portents of elegance to blueberries) and dark chocolate. It It’s in the mouth that Triomphe tri- come, but it is the dark, brandy-laced continues to develop and evolve umphs; the palate entry is sinewy, sweet nuance on the finish with intense on the palate, with emerging notes of with overtones of marzipan and light notes of molasses, bitter chocolate and heather, nougat, lavender, delicate caramel; at midpalate the taste profile treacle that helped make it special. peat and complex dried spice (espe- highlights the oaky vanilla and honey Its very dark feel was nicely cut by the cially cinnamon and nutmeg) to [elements]. Concludes gracefully, com- acidity, making it surprisingly sunny balance the sweeter notes. The extra posed, integrated, and semisweet ... at times with actual hints of elegance. alcohol is also a bonus, providing a it still holds up as a Hine icon. Oh, that This is very fine, complex, sturdy and drying balance to the whisky’s sweet- classic mouth-feel and flavour quite spry for a 60 year old. Despite ness. Whiskies like this one remind phase. Highly Recommended. (2005 the concentration and power, it me why I fell in love with whisky in the Review) Score: HHHHK (F. Paul still seems quite elegant as it comes first place. Score: 94 (John Hansell, Pacult, Kindred Spirits 2, 2008) together. Score: 97 (Mark Squires, maltadvocate.com, undated) erobertparker.com, Nov. 2012) 292888 700 mL $900 22202 750 mL $599 342956 [S] 750 mL $409 THE MACALLAN FINE OAK 30 YEARS OLD SPEYSIDE SINGLE MALT Speyside TASTING NOTE: Colour: Rich golden honey. Nose: Orange and pineapple. Grapefruit. Rich, venerable. Red berries. Body: Full and mouth-coating; creamy. Palate: Orange marmalade dominated, with softer and supportive spice and oak. Drying. Finish: Big on all fronts, with the fruit holding out above the oaky tannins and spiciness. Excellent balance and wonderful, long aftertaste. Score: 91 (Michael Jackson, Malt Whisky Companion, 2010) 656553 750 mL $1400 OPPOSITE: These Sonoma vineyards benefit from the cool breezes that 24 VINTAGES sweep in from San Francisco Bay.
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THE CLASSICS COLLECTION • MARCH 2014 FRANCE – BORDEAUX DOMAINE DE CHEVALIER 2006 CHÂTEAU D’ANGLUDET 2005 AC Pessac-Léognan, Cru Classé AC Margaux TASTING NOTE: The brilliant St.- TASTING NOTE: A sleeper of the vin- RED WINE Emilion-based consultant, Stephane tage, this well-known, non-classified Derenoncourt, is working his magic growth is a deep ruby/purple-colored CHÂTEAU RAUZAN-SÉGLA 2006 at this great vineyard in Leognan. The effort revealing notions of roasted AC Margaux, 2e Cru 2006, a blend of 63% Cabernet meats, black truffles, licorice, and loamy TASTING NOTE: On the same quali- Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, and the rest earth. Sweet tannin, a rich, chocolaty, tative level as this estate’s brilliant Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc, black currant fruitiness, medium to full 2005, but with slightly less sucrosite, is a revelation of sweet, lush, black body, and terrific freshness and this blend of 53% Cabernet Sauvignon, raspberry and black currant fruit vibrancy provide a gorgeous early app- 44% Merlot, and the rest Petit Verdot, intermixed with subtle notes of scor- eal. It will be even better in 3-4 exhibits a 1986-like personality, a very ched earth and barbecue spices. years, and should last for 15 or more. successful vintage at Rauzan Segla. Round, luscious, sexy, and exception- Drink: 2011-2023. Score: 90 Its deep ruby/purple hue is accompa- ally complex, the wine is dominated (Robert Parker Jr., erobertparker.com, nied by sweet aromas of bay leaf, by that smoky minerality that comes April 2008) black currants, licorice, truffles, and from this area. It is the quintessentially a touch of toast, dazzling fruit, and elegant yet substantial Pessac-Leognan 29884 [XD] 750 mL $106 plenty of ripe, but not astringent tannin. with class, complexity, and potential. This is a medium to full-bodied, Despite wanting to drink most of the classic, pure, surprisingly approachable bottle when I was tasting it, I know it Rauzan Segla that will be at its will be even better with 2-4 years of finest between 2012-2025+. Score: 93 bottle age, and should keep for two (Robert Parker Jr., erobertparker.com, decades. Drink: 2011-2031. Score: 92 Feb. 2009) (Robert Parker Jr., erobertparker.com, Feb. 2009) 504209 [XD] 750 mL $119 355248 [XD] 750 mL $105 26 VINTAGES
THE CLASSICS COLLECTION • MARCH 2014 FRANCE – BURGUNDY LOUIS JADOT MOREY-SAINT-DENIS CÔTE DE BEAUNE CLOS DES ORMES 1er CRU 2010 RED WINE AC CÔTE DE NUITS TASTING NOTE: The 2010 Morey- DOMAINE P. DUBREUIL-FONTAINE RED WINE Saint-Denis Clos des Ormes is won- CORTON-BRESSANDES derfully perfumed and delicate. Floral GRAND CRU 2010 DOMAINE HENRI GOUGES notes meld into an expressive core AC NUITS-SAINT GEORGES CLOS of red fruit in this gracious, delicate TASTING NOTE: As with the Verge- DES PORRETS SAINT-GEORGES Burgundy. This is an especially lesses, there is mild reduction present 1er CRU 2010 elegant style of Morey. There is more that in this case is sufficiently slight AC than enough freshness in the glass that it doesn’t unduly detract from the TASTING NOTE: The 2010 Nuits St. to make me think the 2010 will drink sense of aromatic freshness exhib- Georges Clos des Porrets Saint-Georges well for a number of years. Anticipated ited by the red currant, plum and soil- is the first wine in this lineup that shows maturity: 2015-2025. Score: 91-93 inflected nose. There is excellent size the structure of the vintage. Freshly (Antonio Galloni, erobertparker.com, and weight to the very rich, round and cut flowers, minerals, graphite and Feb. 2012) impressively complex broad-shouldered black cherries are woven into a tex- flavors that display a subtle minerality tured fabric of notable class. I especially 934042 [XD] 750 mL $77 on the refined, balanced and strikingly like its energy and drive. A precise, long finish. This is a Bressandes that finely-chiseled finish rounds things out will age for years yet is not so firmly nicely. Anticipated maturity: 2015- structured that it won’t be approach- 2025. Score: 91-93 (Antonio Galloni, able young. Drink: 2022+. Special erobertparker.com, Feb. 2012) designation: Don’t Miss! Score: 93 (Allen Meadows, burghound.com, 693606 [XD] 750 mL $69 April 2012) 297200 [XD] 750 mL $88 DOMAINE HENRI GOUGES NUITS-SAINT-GEORGES 2010 AC Among the many highly rated domaines in the Nuits St. Georges, Domaine Henri Gouges holds prominent status. The Gouges family have been pro- prietors of this domaine since 1919 and own a considerable portion of the region’s most celebrated vineyard, the inimitable Les St-Georges. Henri Gouges was one of the leading voices in defining Burgundy's cru system. The wines produced here are famously ageable and long lived, rich and impressively concentrated. 118901 [XD] 750 mL $45 VINTAGES 27
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