Evita adapt, don't dye* - Khuluma Online Magazine
←
→
Page content transcription
If your browser does not render page correctly, please read the page content below
June 2021
yours forever - download me please e-edition
Evita adapt,
don’t
dye*
* Evita returns to her roots, we find gold in Clarens
+ how a lavatory became a little Louvre
Emigrate to Steyn City
STANDS FROM R3.3-18m
H A M I LT ON’S
PROPERTY PORTFOLIO
the boutique experience
gauteng | cape town | garden route
eastern cape | mauritius
CLICK HERE FOR ALL LISTINGS
w w w. h a m i l t o n s . c o . z a
View from THE TOP
T
raditionally, this is the month when we – the have every right to be furious. They are getting an
people of the south – admit that winter has arrived increasingly raw deal, destined to inherit a planet that’s
and acknowledge this cruel reality by complaining in dire straits.
bitterly whenever the temperature dips below This month, whether winter is warmer or not, is when
20 degrees. (In Cape Town, they start moaning in March. we celebrate Youth Day. Which sounds like it should be a
Shame, hey!) fun celebration of all things cool and vibrant and #awesome.
We Africans aren’t built for frigid climes. Summer’s in But it’s actually a commemoration of events that led to the
our blood, and central heating – that mysterious household killing of Soweto youths during a peaceful march on
infrastructure that Europeans and Americans are always 16 June 1976. They were schoolchildren protesting against
talking about – is virtually non-existent here. another folly imposed by an older generation – a system that,
These days, though, our climate is less predictable, more among its various crimes, deliberately sought to suppress
likely to misbehave and surprise us, not always in good ways. the voices of young people in this country. Young people who
At no time in human history have folks been so aware of the had had enough.
crisis regarding weather-related mood swings. Since the last Once again, we are seeing young people take up the
ice age ended 11 700 years ago, things have been relatively banner of protest against systems that are damaging to
stable. But in just over a century, the planet’s temperature human life. It’s youngsters like Greta Thunberg who are
has shot up more than one degree Celsius, most of that has stirring global action to bring about change to the way we
happened in the last 40 years. treat our planet.
Warmest year on record? A tie between 2016 and 2020. Perhaps, in light of the fact that we South Africans
And the oceans are heating up too. probably need a few months of cold weather to moan about,
We know we’re responsible: it’s human activity, mostly we should pay more attention to what young people like
carbon emissions, that are driving the change. And we Greta are saying.
know, too, that it’s grown-ups – educated people, Because when they’re not sulking about being without
well-meaning people, good people – who have Wi-Fi for a few minutes, young people have some complaints
allowed things to get so out of hand. Young people that are worth addressing. And best we act quickly.
@iflykulula @iflykulula @kulula kulula.com kulula.com
kulula.com JUNE 2021 3
All the web addresses
you see in this magazine
are clickable. Just hover
your cursor over the URL
and click.
49
Contents
PUBLISHED BY
PICASSO HEADLINE
a proud division of Arena Holdings
Hill on Empire, 16 Empire Road (cnr Hillside Road),
JUNE 2021 Parktown, Johannesburg 2193
PO Box 12500, Mill Street, Cape Town, 8010
EDITORIAL
Editor Keith Bain
Copy Editor Nicci Collier
Content Manager Raina Julies – rainaj@picasso.co.za
Content Co-ordinator Vanessa Payne
ART
17 Head of Design Studio Jayne Macé-Ferguson
Senior Designer Mfundo Archie Ndzo
EXPERIENCE Junior Designer Bulelwa Sotashe
Production Editor Shamiela Brenner
7 THE SOCIAL SPACE Cover Photographer Mike Rose
Take care out there.
11 MAKE BELIEVE SALES
Project Manager Merryl Klein –
Live theatre is steadily making a comeback.
merrylk@picasso.co.za, +27 82 895 7260
EXPLORE Sales Consultants Stephen Crawford,
17 REST ASSURED Richard White
Advertising co-ordinator Johan Labuschagne
Winter beckons you to
sublime Stanford. management
27 FALLING WATER Business Manager Lodewyk van der Walt –
Vic Falls is back in business, herd lodewykv@picasso.co.za
Management Accountant Deidre Musha
immunity ‘n’ all. General Manager, Magazines Jocelyne Bayer
35 AFTER PILLOW TALK?
The plot thickens with loo classics Kulula.com
Chief Executive Officer Comair Ltd Glenn Orsmond
and a stolen Steve McQueen.
Executive Manager Sales and Marketing, kulula.com
45 39 GOLDEN
Discover the Free State’s
Brian Kitchin
Brand Communictions Manager, kulula.com
gilded getaway. ita Luane Lavery
Me v
25
et E
DISCOVER Comair Limited
46 ANALYSE THIS 1 Marignane Drive, Bonaero Park, Kempton Park, 1619
Tel: 011 921 0111 | kulula.com | contact centre:
Therapy for whiteness.
0861 KULULA (585852)
49 HOME AND AWAY
Hybrid smartwatches, bread delivered, Copyright: No portion of this magazine may be reproduced in any form
without written consent of the publisher. The publisher is not responsible for
and fasting for vegans. unsolicited material. khuluma is published monthly by Picasso Headline.
The opinions expressed are not necessarily those of Picasso Headline, kulula
54 A FEW GOOD BOOKS or Arena Holdings. All advertisements/advertorials and promotions have been
paid for and therefore do not carry any endorsement by the publisher. While
Winter’s coming, better stock up. every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of its contents, neither
kulula, nor the publisher can be held responsible for any omissions or errors,
or for any misfortune, injury or damages that may arise therefrom. We reserve
the right to edit interviews for layout purposes.
27
s
Fall
4 M AY 2 0 2 1 kulula.com
the
Back to
get a FREE 20kg baggage allowance
because it’s shop o’clock somewhere
For more info on our baggage allowance, click here.
FREE 20kg 90cm
76cm 43cm
iflykulula iflykulula kulula kulula.com kulula.com
Love exclusive deals? Sign up to kulula.com/fanmail
SOMETHING FOR EVERYONE EXPERIENCE
KEEP IT SAFE
THE SOCIAL SPACE
1. Hello, Schalk speaking
Brace yourself for Schalk
Bezuidenhout’s self-described
funniest broken English stand-
up comedy show yet. Although
not from Durban and therefore
not strictly speaking a banana
boy, Schalk has been known
to speak in fruity tones and
break down English like only a
well-mannered Afrikaans boy
can do. He’s polite, he’s witty,
and while the rest of us were
trying to figure out how to get
the sanitiser onto our hands
without touching anything, he
was already coming up with
jokes about how to get the
sanitiser back into the bottle.
Smart guy, spiffy snor (that’s
moustache for us souties).
His new show’s called Feeling
Good, because he is. Really.
schalkbezuidenhout.com
kulula.com JUNE 2021 7
EXPERIENCE SOMETHING FOR EVERYONE
2
4
4
2
3
2. Affected, not infected 3. Free state of mind 4. Mamma mia!
Already underway, this year’s He’s called The Singing Chef, When the moon hits your eye like
rejigged-for-Covid iteration of so you know precisely what a big pizza pie, that’s a moray!
SA’s longest-running public arts the ebullient Kevin Leo will Well, not quite. Actually, in Luca,
festival has reinvented itself be doing at the Art & Winter the latest Disney/Pixar animation,
appropriately as (Un)infecting Garden Day in Clarens on 3 July. the hero is a lad on the Italian
the City. As always, it’s about Aside from food made in the Riviera with a big secret: he’s
situating art, theatre, dance and presence of arias, there’ll be a sea monster. He and his pal
music in non-traditional spaces. expert gardening advice from Alberto cavort on dry land acting
This month, the programme goes Garden World Nursery’s J.J. Van as though they’re normal boys,
online, with audio works from Rensburg, and an art auction living la dolce vita under the
4 June, digital artwork from the with work by Christi du Toit, F. Mediterranean sun, experiencing
11th, and from the 18th recordings Claerhout, Maryna Cotton and their best coming-of-age moments
of live performances will go online, many more. Find more reasons while getting an illicit taste of the
on social media, and on Cape to visit golden-hued Clarens, on human world. In cinemas from
Town TV. infectingthecity.com page 39. quicket.co.za 18 June. numetro.co.za
8 JUNE 2021 kulula.comSOMETHING FOR EVERYONE EXPERIENCE
5
7
7
6
5. Legend of moo-moo 6. Elegant experiments 7. Travels by cop car
Words: Keith Bain, Nicci Collier, Pictures: Stan Kaplan, Buhlebezwe Siwani, Supplied
This is the last month to catch Jabulani Hadebe is known Francois van Coke says much
ceramic artist Zizipho Poswa’s to his fans as Sjava. The of his education has happened
first solo exhibition, iLobola, KwaZulu-Natal born singer, on the road, touring as a rock
at Southern Guild, in the V&A rapper and actor is known for musician. As a teenager in Cape
Waterfront’s Silo District. The his experimental fusion sound Town’s northern suburbs, the
show, inspired by traditional that incorporates Afrobeats, city ‘felt like some mystical
life in and around Mthatha hip-hop and contemporary place you only went to on
and the village of Idutywa in R&B. He is always levelling up, special occasions,’ he says. ‘You
the Eastern Cape, features figuring out new ways of making could see the mountain, but
ten hand-coiled pots adorned sound and music, and getting it was in a parallel universe.’
with bronze horns – they his fans from across Africa Now he’s going all the way to
signify the spiritual offering into the groove. On 27 June, the Winelands, to perform at
at the heart of the custom of you can catch him in the flesh Franschhoek Cellar on 3 July
lobola, or bridal dowry: the at DKNY Lounge in Daveyton. at 3pm; arrive earlier for lunch
cow. southernguild.co.za computicket.com and wine. webtickets.co.za
kulula.com JUNE 2021 9Download now
LIVE AND IN PERSON EXPERIENCE
Make
believe
Screen time getting you down? Theatres are bouncing back – and
with super-strict Covid protocols in place and more live performances
taking place, it’s time to get out there and feed your soul…
Puppets that live? Booker to Baxter
‘The magical thing J.M. Coetzee’s Booker Prize-
about a puppet,’ says winning novel Life and Times of
Basil Jones, ‘is that Michael K is being brought to life at
it’s a dead object that the Baxter Theatre in Cape Town in
only comes to life when an epic production that’s been two
the puppeteer imbues years in the planning. Mounted by
it with breath and director Lara Foot in collaboration
movement and energy with Handspring Puppet Company,
and focus.’ Jones it stars – alongside the puppets
co-founded Handspring and in front of large-scale film
Puppet Company projections – Sandra Prinsloo,
40 years ago with his Andrew Buckland and Faniswa
life partner Adrian Yisa. It’s the hauntingly beautiful
Kohler. ‘It is incredible,’ story of a man who journeys
Jones adds, ‘because an through a South Africa that’s been
audience can be utterly shattered by civil war. His mission?
aware that what they’re Taking his mother to die on the
watching is an illusion, farm where she was born. It’s at
yet there’s a willingness Baxter’s Main Theatre from 7 to
to suspend disbelief.’ 19 June. webtickets.co.za
kulula.com JUNE 2021 11EXPERIENCE LIVE AND IN PERSON
Hurry, hurry!
Pictured are Mia
Labuschagne and Gabriel
Ravenscroft in Moon
Behind the Clouds, a
suite of works by five
leading South African
choreographers created
during the pandemic. It’s
one half of Cape Town City
Ballet – Back on Stage, a
double-bill with George
Balanchine’s Serenade on
2 and 5 June. Cape Town
City Ballet has a second
double-bill, comprising
Mthuthuzeli November’s
Olivier Award-winning
Ingoma and the pastoral
fantasy Les Sylphides in
which imaginary spirits
Signs of the times
Choreographer Gregory
dance in the moonlight to
Maqoma’s contemporary
music by Chopin. There are
African dance company
Words: Keith Bain, Nicci Collier, Pictures: Fiona McPherson, Jacqui van Staden, Joan Ward, iStock, Supplied
three performances – on
Vuyani Dance Theatre will
3, 4 and 5 June. All shows
present a short season of its
are at Artscape.
acclaimed Cion: Requiem of
computicket.com
Ravel’s Boléro at the Mandela
at Joburg Theatre from
18 to 27 June. It’s a
sumptuous production in
Cell mates which dancers are joined
Sylvaine Strike directs Wessel Pretorius and by an isicathamiya troupe
Mbulelo Grootboom in Kiss of the Spider to tell a story inspired by
Woman, a play based on a 1976 novel by the character Toloki in Zakes
Argentine writer Manuel Puig. It’s about Mda’s novel Cion, and by
a pair of prison inmates who, on the music from Boléro by French
surface, are polar opposites. What’s composer Maurice Ravel.
revealed though, as they pass the time by With its marching rhythms
recreating scenes from movies they’ve and heartbeat pulsations,
seen, is their human connection. It’s the dance digs its heels into
at the Baxter from 5 to 19 June. weighty issues and feels
webtickets.co.za like a symbolic elegy for
the world in its current
crisis state.
joburgtheatre.com
12 JUNE 2021 kulula.comLIVE AND IN PERSON EXPERIENCE
Island songs
Cape Town Opera
presents a semi-staged Less drama,
version of Georges more theatre
Bizet’s lesser-known, Theatre, music, art and
early-career opera, The dance: the Standard
Pearl Fishers, which is Bank National Arts
set in ancient times on Festival is the once-
the island of Ceylon and annual expedition into
looks at a friendship a chilly Eastern Cape
torn asunder when two student town to seek out
men fall in love with art and culture, often
the same woman, a combined with shacking
priestess, sung by the up in a damp hostel
riveting Vuvu Mpofu permeated by dope
(pictured right). It’s at fumes or eating from a
the Artscape Opera trough at the makeshift
House on 15, 17 pub. This year, should
and 19 June. you so wish, you can
capetownopera.co.za catch much of the drama
from the comfort of
your own home (hereby
avoiding the drama of
navigating Makhanda’s
potholed roads).
July’s ‘hybrid’ Festival
will consist of a live
component in Makhanda
All change for Darling and a virtual online
For years, khuluma cover star Evita
element à la 2020. The
Bezuidenhout has presided over a
programme will be
kingdom of cultural complexity and
announced on 7 June.
fun at Evita se Perron in Darling.
nationalartsfestival.co.za
Now she’s sold the enterprise to the
owners of the town’s artisanal toffee
company Darling Sweet. They’re
all great friends, of course, and the
sweet-makers say that as soon as
it’s safe to do so and more people
have been vaccinated, Evita and her
nemesis Pieter-Dirk Uys (pictured
here on the Perron stage) will be
raising the old station roof once
more. evitaseperron.com
kulula.com JUNE 2021 1310 – 20 JUNE 2021
www.hermanusfynarts.co.za
www.webtickets.co.za
Cyber Crime Investigations
Social Media Investigations
GET THE
CCTV Enhancement
Cyber Crime
Image Investigations
Enhancement
Social MediaForensics
Digital Investigations
GET THE
CCTV Enhancement
Expert Testimony
FACTS! Image Enhancement
Open Source Intelligence
Digital Forensics
Expert Testimony
FACTS! www.tcgforensics.co.za
Open Source IntelligenceFATHER AND CHILD REUNIONE EXPLORE
EXPLORE Here. There. Everywhere.
TOGETHERNESS
Stanford, as you’ll
realise from our
feature on page 17, is
a very special place.
Its countryside charm
comes with a touch of
everything – including
an enchanted estuary,
perhaps best seen from
the deck at the family-
friendly Perivoli Lagoon
House. Everything
about it sets the
tone for quality time
reconnecting with those
closest to you. It could
be the greatest Father’s
Day gift-to-self yet.
Words: Keith Bain, Picture: Supplied
Leave the paintings on the wall 35 A golden era for Clarens 39
PLUS Vic Falls is back in business 27
kulula.com JUNE 2021 15THE OVERBERG’S HIDDEN GEM EXPLORE
SUBLIME STANFORD
REST ASSURED
1. Paradise found
Suspend your disbelief for fynbos reserve, overlooking
a moment – the magical the Klein River Lagoon
setting and fynbos- and affording panoramic
scented air are entirely views of the Klein River
real. A faint ocean breeze Mountains, this is paradise,
might also beckon from although they call it
beyond the tall dunes in Perivoli Lagoon House.
the neighbouring nature Its four exquisite bedrooms
reserve. Tucked away are yours to share between
between Stanford and friends or for your family
Hermanus, and set within to take over for the ultimate
its own 140-hectare retreat.
kulula.com JUNE 2021 17EXPLORE THE OVERBERG’S HIDDEN GEM
Discover
is a bush ranger and will take nature
Things about The you on outings to the dunes, Canoeing on the
Mighty Fine that’ll make through the fynbos and out on the lagoon, looooong
you smile? Swish studios lagoon. He’ll make even the most beach walks,
and suites that feel like hardened screen addict fall in love dips in the dune-
home-away-from-home with the world outside. flanked ocean, and
hideaways. Thoughtful OMG factor? Even a simple walk contemplative hikes
touches and bespoke through the fynbos is a dream, through Walker Bay
everything – artworks but so are Marcelino’s G and Ts Nature Reserve or
hand-picked by Latitudes, on the beach at sunset. And then even across Perivoli’s
chairs by David Krynauw, there are the kind ladies who feed own stretch of
furnishings and fittings you, who anticipate your caffeine protected reserve
from the likes of Dokter needs, and who go to such extreme to seek out rare
and Misses and Things lengths to quietly give you the fynbos and perhaps
VIP treatment . catch a glimpse of
Not for you if… you want cookie- the resident dassie
cutter anything, or if you desire or even a caracal…
anonymity. This place is steeped There is never a dull
in originality, and made for people moment at this swanky
who want to feel like they’re at house. Plus, Stanford
home. No TVs in the rooms, either, is just minutes away,
and while there’s Wi-Fi, you don’t with shops, delis,
come here for that kind of getaway. restaurants, and all
How deep are your pockets? those wine farms
From R15 000 for the whole to explore.
house per night, self-catering. If
you want to have all your meals
Things about Perivoli that’ll catered, there’s a rate for that, too,
make you smile? It’s a work of with excellent chefs and exquisite
visual theatre as you walk in. Built produce and local wines conjured
to the highest standards and kitted to ensure your experience is always
out for every imaginable need – next-level. perivoliafrica.com
plus it has a vast deck out front
from which to commune with its
rapturous surrounds.
And sigh? It is cutting edge and
très swanky and yet despite the
grown-up ambience, you instantly
feel at home. Not only that, but
children absolutely thrill at being
here – there’s so much opportunity
for adventure at their fingertips.
The people who take care of you
at Perivoli are a special breed of
incredible. Marcelino (just the
loveliest man alive), who manages
the property with his wife Simoné,
18 JUNE 2021 kulula.comBuilt in 1920 during the flamboyant
Historic Village Hotel, Gatsby era, the Stanford Hotel is a small
Warm Welcome family hotel that cherishes a century of
memories within its stout old walls.
The Stanford Hotel invites guests to The hotel sleeps 16 guests sharing.
come and experience its traditional This includes two self-catering
country hospitality cottages set back on the property for
greater privacy, a two-bedroomed
family suite and three double rooms,
all with private entrances.
Although situated in the heart of the
village, there is no public access to
the hotel, which ensures our guests’
complete privacy, safety and security
within the confines of the property.
We look forward to welcoming you
with traditional country hospitality.
to VieW or book, Visit:
www.stanfordvillage.co.za
hotel@stanfordvillage.co.za
18 Queen Victoria Street, Stanford
082 781 1704
Growin g Perfection
in every pot
A world of beauty and wonder awaits at Eikenhoff Orchid Nursery
– a speciality plant nursery. The nursery is situated on a farm
alongside the Papiesvlei/Elim Road on the edges of Stanford (just off
the R326) in the Cape’s Overberg region. Eikenhoff Orchid Nursery
grows and breeds orchids for the South African pot plant industry.
The plants are sold en masse to large nurseries, garden centres and
well-known retail outlets.
Although Eikenhoff Orchid Nursery carries a large range of the
various orchids (thousands upon thousands of them, in fact), its
main focus and passion is the cultivation of cymbidiums. Eikenhoff
Orchid nursery invites the general public to visit the farm by
appointment and also hosts open days once a month from April/May
until Sept/Oct where orchid lovers can stock up on plants, potting
mix and receive expert advice from the Eikenhoff Orchid team. Small
orders for private orchid collectors are always welcomed and facilitated.
Too far to visit – no problem! The nursery’s website www.eikenhoff.com
has an online shop and offers nationwide delivery by courier.
For more information:
Eikenhoff Farm, Portion 2 of Farm 970, Stanford, Western Cape | Mobile Debra: +27 (0)76 292 5267
Mobile Pierre: +27 (0)84 038 7055 | E-mail: admin@eikenhoff.com | Website: www.eikenhoff.comLUXURY AND ADVENTURE
AT THE LAGOON
Nestled between ocean and towering mountains, the five-star Mosaic Lagoon
Lodge is an ecological gem. This splendid wilderness is filled with unique
birds and plants and offers beach, water and land adventures; creative food; a
rejuvenating spa and friendly, caring service. Located on the Cape Whale Coast,
Mosaic is centrally situated for easy access to whale watching, marine tours in
Lagoon Lodge, shark cage diving and exploration of the Overberg wine region.
With only five luxury safari-style suites, the Lodge provides a very intimate and
personal experience for you to cherish for many years to come.
www.mosaiclagoonlodge.co.za
Office: admin@mosaicsouthafrica.com or 028 313 2814
Reservations: reservations@mosaicsouthafrica.com or 076 313 2814
A slice of the
Klein RiveR cheese life
Klein River Cheese is a celebration of cheese, COMING TO STANFORD?
picnics and family. VISIT OUR CHEESE & WINE CELLAR
We don’t just create cheese and picnics, we For almost three decades, visitors to the area
also inspire chefs and romantics, nature lovers have put Klein River Cheese at the top of
and healthy, family-centred ambassadors. their list. Relocated at Walker Bay Estate &
Birkenhead Brewery and open 7 days a week,
FREE CHEESE? YES PLEASE! our new Cheese & Wine Cellar offers the full
Select your favourite cheese and other locally Klein River Cheese experience.
made produce on our online store, and enjoy
nationwide delivery to your home - Use the coupon code Khuluma2021 to get
your complimentary bag of 1kg fresh shred
wwww.kleinrivercheese.co.za/shop with your next Klein River Cheese order!
For a full listing of where to find our cheese, visit
www.kleinrivercheese.co.zaTHE OVERBERG’S HIDDEN GEM EXPLORE
2. Designer farm
This is not your grandma’s Festive
farm stay. Chic, contemporary, Stanford
fashionable, HaesFarm is a bit The inaugural
of a design fantasist’s dream. Stanford Cheese and
The artworks and books and Wine Festival happens
sleek edges are all here in this on 5 June at Walker
renovated farmhouse conceived Bay Estate. Hosted
as a sustainable sanctuary: off- by the sustainability-
grid, solar-powered, and striving focused Klein River
for harmony with nature – but it’s Cheese Farmstead,
all filtered through the lens of the which has its Cheese
surrounding countryside. & Wine Cellar on the
What’s to love? A 40-hectare estate, there’ll be
organic fynbos fantasia with olive food, vino, music and
trees, peach and lemon orchards insight into artisan
and a huge herb and veggie garden. cheesemaking. Also
The sense of enchantment starts your eyes settle on the house, it on the estate is
when you turn onto either of the looks like it’s performing some sort Birkenhead Brewery
two dirt roads to get here. Once of a balancing act – that would be where you can sip and
due to the huge cantilevered stoep. sample craft beers.
You’ll spend plenty of time on it, Nearby, in walkable
gazing out across the endless, and lively Stanford
blissful silence. Inside, it’s plush village, you will find
and modern, with honesty bar and all sorts of gems –
Wi-Fi, and maximum four guests. antique stores, book
Stanford is nearby, Cape Agulhas shops, artisanal food
an hour away. But with super stops, several weekend
dinners available on prior request, markets, and lots of
why even budge? historic houses that’ll
How deep are your pockets? make you wonder if it
From R1 175 per person per night, isn’t time to relocate
breakfast included, two-night to the countryside.
minimum. haesfarm.com kleinrivercheese.co.za
kulula.com JUNE 2021 21EXPLORE THE OVERBERG’S HIDDEN GEM
3. Snuggle up in town
In the village itself, the recently
Sublime dining refurbished Stanford Hotel
At Stanford Valley Guest is a classic, with wood-frame
Farm’s Manor House beds and all-white linens,
Restaurant there’s a handmade blankets in winter –
handsome mix of mid- you know the vibe, just lovely,
century modern furniture, and full of homely atmosphere.
art, and views of the Plus, of course, instant walking
Akkedisberg mountains. distance access to the town’s
Plus, bountiful cuisine: high street, with its curious
Bone marrow with shops and wonderful spots to
guinea fowl potbrood to eat. The hotel also manages
start, perhaps, and then 4. Humming with history
a pair of pretty, cutely-named
maybe good old fish and Set in a pristine countryside,
self-catering cottages (that’s
chips or a slow-cooked Stanford Valley Guest Farm
‘Bambi’ pictured above, and one
lamb shank. They do an is laid out to make you feel at
of the bedrooms in ‘Sixpence’
immaculate beef burger home, unwind, and reconnect
to its right) that are both
(with boerenkaas), and with yourself. The cottages vary
done out to evoke that same
lovely lemon and sage in size, shape, and history. Stables
timeless, antique countryside
pork neck. There’s also a is a freestanding 150-year-old
quality. stanfordvillage.co.za
to-die-for almond bread- two-bedroom unit with a toasty
and-butter pudding with fireplace, cosy lounge and modern
whisky anglaise. kitchenette, plus an enclosed
manorhouserestaurant.co.za garden. But it’s worth looking
at other options if you want
something smaller (Erica sleeps
two, and has a kitchenette and
fireplace, for just R1 600 per
night), or bigger – Milkwood sleeps
five. Aside from its restaurant
(left), there’s a spa where you can
have your physical body restored
to equilibrium by well-trained
hands. stanfordvalley.co.za
22 JUNE 2021 kulula.comBlue Gum Country Estate, which is also home to Campbell’s Peak Wine, is nestled within the
scenic Stanford Valley, a mere 90-minute drive from Cape Town International Airport. Our quaint
guesthouse is positioned uniquely on a working farm, which amongst our natural wildlife and
diverse Fynbos, also produces a fine Shiraz and Sauvignon Blanc. The general guest facilities
include a tennis court, swimming pool, bar, lounge, and restaurant. Blue Gum can accommodate
up to 30 guests in 11 suites and 2 family units, all of which have a full en-suite bathroom,
tea/coffee facility, mini bar fridge, TV, and DVD player. There is an abundant number of activities
available, ranging from mountain biking, hiking, trail running, horse riding, kayaking / SUPing,
white shark diving, whale watching, and various wine tours. Whilst our core focus is creating
unique experiences for families, we welcome all guests from business travelers and
honeymooners. Blue Gum is also able to cater for any of those special days planned, ranging
from birthday celebrations through to that big wedding day.
Contact Us: www.bluegum.co.za/
+27 (0)83 304 0029 Facebook: @BlueGumCE
reservations@bluegum.co.za Instagram: @bluegumcountryestateEVITA MEET
This lady’s The buck stops
not for with you
dyeing
Don’t look so surprised. It’s me, Evita. Really!
For much of my life, anyone over 40 was ‘ancient’. Then
I turned 40, and called it the new 30; then 60 and
called it the new 40. Now I’m 85 and still counting. For
40 years, I looked the same. My natural colour was
brown hair and as time whispered by, I found the perfect
match in an expensive bottle of salon dye.
Sixteen months of lockdown meant I couldn’t get to
the hairdresser for my weekly repairs. I was horrified
at first to notice a silver lining to the dark brown. By
Level 2, I had taken my scissors and snipped away
gently into a practical style. Clicks then sent me a
wonderful gift of shampoo. Now it’s short, soft and
manageable. How many women were in the same
situation? No wonder the pandemic becomes a damn
panic, forcing us to adapt rather than dye! Now when
I pass a mirror and glance at myself in it, I can see the
young Evangelie Poggenpoel in her first Killarney film in
the 1950s with short hair and glowing highlights. Then
I put on my glasses and reality returns.
Turning 85 demands a new energy from me. While
there’s nothing we can do to change the reality of
Covid-19, I stick to the rules of survival. Focus on family,
friends, neighbours and community. The many examples
Picture: Hentie van der Merwe
of good neighbourliness and support during the last year
have inspired me. Let us make community the jewel
in the crown of democracy. Let the buck not stop with
government; it will be captured. The buck now stops
with us. The future now starts with us. So go for your
vaccination. Don’t be scared. It’s just a little prick!
kulula.com JUNE 2021 2520%
SADC
Discount *
Sunset Cruise Luxury Deck
Ý«iÀiViÌ iÃÕÃiÌÌ iLiâ,ÛiÀ
L>À`ÕÀv>}Ã «ÛiÃÃi]Liâ Ý«ÀiÀ
ÕÝÕÀÞ iV£®
/}à £È\ää£n\ää
V>Ì Liâ Ý«ÀiÀ>Ì*ÕÀiƂvÀV>7>ÌiÀvÀÌ
VÕ`ià -iiVÌvV>>«éÃ]V>`ÀÃ]ÌÀ>ÃviÀÃ
Excludes >Ì>*>ÀÃviiÃ
1-fxvÀLÜi>Ã]1-f£ä
vÀLÜi>ë>Þ>Li>ÀÀÛ>®
NOW US$44pp
The Eatery Pot Experience
ÌÕiÞÕÀÕÀiÞ>vÌiÀÌ i-ÕÃiÌ ÀÕÃi
>`iÞ>Ì ÀiiVÕÀÃi>vÀiÃV«Ìi`iÀ
at The Eatery
/}Ã £n\ääÓ£\ää
V>Ì / i >ÌiÀÞ>Ì*ÕÀiƂvÀV>7>ÌiÀvÀÌ
VÕ`ià -i>Ã>ÃÌ>ÀÌiÀ]ÃiiVÌv«ÌiÃ>Ã>
course, dessert
Excludes /À>ÃviÀÃ]`ÀÃ
NOW US$32pp
The Eatery Pot & Cruise
Book the combo of both
NOW US$76 pp
+ eÝ«iÀiViÃvÀ>
ÕvÀ}ettableiÛi}
*Valid until 30th June 2021
³ÓÈÎnÎÓn{ÓƁ{Çx www.pure.africa
³ÓÈÎÇÇÇnÓÎÇ @pure.africa
Shop 10 Sopers Arcade, Parkway Drive, Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe resvf@pure.africaTHE CALL OF THE FALLS EXPLORE
Falling
water
Keith Bain tunes in to
the sound and the fury
of Victoria Falls
The sun was
barely a sliver.
Already, a woodpecker was
hammering its rut-tut-tut-tut-
tut Morse code on a branch
somewhere beyond my canvas
cocoon. Through the night, my
sleep between soft linens had
been broken by love-struck lions
and hippos honking into the
darkness. For long stretches,
I simply lay awake listening
to the soundtrack of the bush,
absorbing its primordial wonder,
and being aware of the subtle
roar that came not from those
lions, but from falling water.
It was some distance away,
but you hear and – via earthly
vibrations – feel it, long before
you see it. Victoria Falls – Mosi-
oa-Tunya, the Smoke that
Thunders. It really does.
kulula.com JUNE 2021 27EXPLORE THE CALL OF THE FALLS
Its cacophonous
rumbling called to me
and so I set off to see
it before breakfast,
while the dawn light
held it just so. First
there’s a wondrous walk
through thick vegetation – a
2 340-hectare narrow strip
of protected, mist-drenched
rainforest along the Zambezi’s Adrenaline junkies and
southern bank. As you walk from one thrill-seekers use that energy
vantage point to the next, you feel its as fuel for the adventures that
energy coursing through you. happen nearby, many of them on
When I did look, though, I stood or near the old railway bridge
transfixed, let it drench me with linking Zimbabwe and Zambia.
the spray and deep-bellied roar of In the centre of the bridge, the
millions upon millions of litres of bungee-jump crews had their
water plummeting 100 metres into radio blasting, drowning out the
the depths of Batoka Gorge. Getting screams of brave-hearts who
soaked like this is like a baptism, jumped off and into the abyss only
a blessing from the river gods, to stop and dangle some ten metres
I imagined. above the gurgling waters (and
After the exhilaration of the crocodiles, I thought) below.
Falls, everything else plunged into But my need was to get closer
stillness. It is like having your senses to the water, to be on the river. I
stripped away. Yet that thundering wanted the waterborne equivalent
power stays with you as though of a rodeo, something that would let
there’s electricity in your veins. me feel the river’s power.
28 JUNE 2021 kulula.comTHE CALL OF THE FALLS EXPLORE
Some of the world’s most
challenging commercial white-
water rafting happens here on the
thrashing rapids and so I joined one
of the crews from Wild Horizons to
find out if I could live through one of
the Zambezi’s laundry cycles.
True’s anything, we were churned
and thrown and tossed into the air –
I felt as though I was astride a
bucking bronco.
We screamed, we cheered, we
panicked when we weren’t meant to
and went all casual when we should
have been paddling like our lives
depended on it.
There were what seemed
like surfable waves. And scary,
mesmerising whirlpools formed by
sudden rock constrictions.
Our patient, vigilant rafting guide
would give the call to paddle harder
before the inevitable near-flips and
tightening knuckles as we clung
on for dear life, whooping and
yelling as the frothy tumult gave
way to relative calm and panic
was replaced by the excitement of
accomplishment and a round of yee-
ha and woohoo…
And between the wild jolts and
disorienting spins, there were
periods of calm contemplation
when I stared up at the walls
‘There were surfable waves. And scary, of the gorge and felt that deep
satisfied connection with the watery
mesmerising whirlpools formed by wilderness on which we floated
effortlessly downstream.
sudden rock constrictions.’ And, in the end, what I knew with
total certainty is that I was alive. And
that, surely, the river and that falling
water are alive, too.
kulula.com JUNE 2021 29EXPLORE THE CALL OF THE FALLS
Thrill town
Victoria Falls is a one-stop
adventure destination, with
the added bonus of being in a
landscape that still feels wild
and free; plus, of course, there’s
the reassuring presence of that
massive swathe of falling water.
For all your adventure plans, you
have only to contact Wild Horizons.
They will sort you out whether you
want to hit the Zambezi’s rapids
like a waterborne rodeo cowboy or
would prefer a gentle cruise along
the river, or perhaps use a kayak
to explore at a civilised pace. They
can help you spike your adrenaline
with leaps off the historic bridge
that links Zimbabwe with Zambia –
gorge swingers always end up
with the biggest smiles on their
faces, even if the build-up can
be daunting.
Vic Falls affords access to Getting there
national parks, too, so you can A studious vaccination
arrange game drives in the morning programme means that
and then go for a more action- Victoria Falls was declared in
packed afternoon. Wild Horizons early May by the Zimbabwean
itself owns a number of beautiful president to have achieved
places to stay, including The herd immunity. Since the
Elephant Camp, within Victoria community relies on tourism,
Falls National Park. The tented it’s been important for this site
lodge overlooks the gorges of the of one of the seven wonders
Zambezi and comes with a view of the world to be able to
of the Victoria Falls spray gently welcome visitors safely. This
misting the horizon. The lodge is by no means precludes the
divided into two sections: at its following of strict Covid-19
Main Camp (pictured right) each of prevention protocols –
the 12 suites has a private plunge travellers to Zimbabwe must
Pictures: Courtesy of Wild Horizons
pool and viewing deck. The more provide a negative PCR test
intimate four-suite Elephant Camp result certificate obtained not
West comes with all the bells and more than 48 hours before
whistles and is set up so that date of arrival. British Airways
it can be hired on an exclusive by Comair has commenced
basis – great if you’re isolating as daily flights to Vic Falls from
a family or small group. Joburg; book your adventure
wildhorizons.co.za at kulula.com.
30 JUNE 2021 kulula.comSADC
Special
PACKAGE
RESIDENTS
only R 14 950 per person
sharing Includes: 4 NIGHTS AT TSOWA SAFARI ISLAND
as well as a guided bush walk in the Zambezi National
valid until Park & canoeing experience on the Zambezi river.
19 DECEMBER 2021
t&c’s apply
Includes: 4 nights’ accommodation,
all meals, all soft drinks, local beers and
wines, local spirits, teas and coffees.
Sundowner cruise, game drives, nature
walk on the island, guided bush walk and
guided canoeing, bush laundry, transfers
from our private entrance to the
Zambezi National Park and boat transfer
to the island. Park Fees and Isibindi
Foundation levy. Return transfers from
Victoria International airport. 1 transfer
to Victoria Falls town and return to
the camp with a game drive on the
return trip.
Excludes: All air fares, early late or unspecified transfers, premium spirits, liqueurs, imported beers and cellar wines. Professional guided fishing, gratuities
and items of a personal nature. Entrance to the Victoria Falls Rain Forest and any other activities in Victoria Falls.
email: res@isibindi.co.za tel: +27 (0) 35 474 1473 website: www.isibindi.co.zaThe Sultan of
Small-Town
Aesthetics
Artist John Kramer is passionate about paint
“I like to paint. I give the process a lot of thought. There is always
and colour. He creates emotion-evoking something new that I can focus on.”
paintings that reveal the stories of small-town
buildings, reports Lin Sampson In his studio above his house in the Gardens suburb of Cape
Town are tubes of half squeezed paint – cadmium red, cerulean
blue, lamp black. The names crackle. Over the years Kramer has
marshalled these paints like a sergeant major, bossed them about,
learnt their ancestry, held power over them to help produce
what is a valuable historical record that also reverberates at an
emotional level.
KRAMER FINDS HIS TRUE STYLE
“When I left university, I knew I wanted to paint, but I had no idea
what to paint. I was still learning about paint. I tried hard edge,
pop, realism. Goodness knows what. None of them were me. Then
I remembered our art lecturer, Neville Dubow, said ‘You must stop
being influenced from overseas, look in your own backyard.’ My
backyard was Worcester, and I would go back there and wander
around. You get to know the town you were born in. The Van
Vuuren Milk Bar, banana splits in frosted glasses, the old cinema
with its Art Deco out-lines. The Good Hope Cafe, typical Greek,
J
ohn Kramer has, like his paintings, a pleasant with technicolour pictures of mixed grills and milkshakes. The
innocence and true humbleness. “I am Cumberland, the Masonic.
a painter,” he says. “I have always been
fascinated by painting. It is a wonderful thing and “One day I was sitting in my studio, looking at photos and
you never get tired of it.” He rues the fact that thinking what is the real South Africa? Is it red hot pokers? Old
at university (Michaelis) he was not taught more Dutch houses? I picked up one of these photographs: it was a
about paint, about colour, about its magic qualities, building with a corrugated roof. Just an ordinary Cape building,
its ability to transform. How it can add fizz and but it had that particular quality of heat, a blue gum tree, so I
vigour and visual staccato and emotional texture made a painting of it. It was designed in a way that it had a black
and a Catherine wheel of fugitive colours. “At border around it, so it was like you stuck a photograph into an
university, we were just given a large bit of paper album. I did three or four of them; I got a great response. These
and told to get on with it. Sometimes the lecturer buildings really became something to hang my painting on. They
would make a comment like, ‘needs to be more were my quarry,” Kramer says. He paints small corner cafes,
sensitive, more shade’. But we were taught nothing superettes, barber shops, picking out monikers like Algemene
about paint,” he says. Handelaars, Uitkyk Cafe and Gen Dealer. He uses colour mixes
Artist John Kramer Pr
willi n
bec exhibiting
e A l b e rnew
t Prpaintings
i n c e Aentitled
l b e r t “Streetscape” in the Prince Albert
Gallery Gallery
Art Gallery, 55 Church Street. The exhibition opens on Friday 18 June at 6pmthat look like tumbleweed and old toadstools, spiced with abandonment, a country in gritty turmoil surrounded by the
aero blues and saturated reds and yellows. “The object is flaky, elemental nature of the environment with its flinty
not simply to copy the photographs, but also to explore the unforgiving turf and high skies.
inherent qualities; the nature of tone and colour in photos
and how this could be EMOTIVE, EERIE AND EVASIVE
“The object is not manipulated in paint.” He A South African exile from the Karoo who lives in London
simply to copy the captures the high Karoo says: “I just have to look at one of his paintings to burst into
skies and the washed tears. They have an eerie quality, ghostlike and spectral that
photographs, but Cape light. He occupies a is enduring, emphasised by Kramer’s ability to paint the soft
also to explore the dangerous turf that, without light, streaming across the latticed penumbra of the Karoo.
inherent qualities; a profound technique The Karoo evades capture, sneaky and cunning, it dances
the nature of tone and acute intelligence, and tumbles beyond the human hand, its stories of tragedy
could easily spill into the and beauty are tumultuous and evasive. But Kramer has
and colour in photos picturesque. Instead, shadowed this land with his acute eye and paintbrush and,
and how this could be his paintings of ordinary with a foxy alertness, has managed to get under its skin
manipulated in paint.” buildings speak mostly of with true understanding.”
Pr i n c e A l b e r t
www.princealbertgallery.co.za
GalleryJohn Kramer
Streetscapes
Opening 18:00 Friday 18 June, closes Sunday 1 August 2021
http://www.princealbertgallery.co.za
princealbertgallery@gmail.com
Pr i n c e A l b e r t
GalleryTHE ARTY-FARTY TRAVEL GUIDE EXPLORE
N
ever mind the moody other pièce de résistance. A virtual tour of the Louvre And now imagine being
landscape looming is great (no Mona Lisa selfie crowd!) but how much the first to uncover that
above your bed, for more memorable to eat or sleep in the very presence greatness: a secret artwork
all you know, an of greatness? lurking in your hotel room;
artwork entitled The Cistern management completely
Chapel may be lurking in the oblivious to it. It’s more than
toilet of your hotel room. I’ll likely if British comedian and
get to that masterpiece in graffiti artist David Bussell
a moment. has been a guest… For
But while we’re on the years, Bussell went around
subject of loos, I’ll start with surreptitiously leaving cheeky
a wünderwerk called Fragile notes in hotel rooms around
Masculinity, and how it’s the the world. Peek behind a
perfect example of how art painting, at the back of a mirror,
can elevate any place – be under a desk drawer, or inside
it a hotel, mall, ugly wall… a Gideons Bible, and you may
or in this case a bar. Haven’t find a sketch, a witty remark,
heard of it? At The Lumsden or perhaps a note that reads,
Freehouse in Auckland, New ‘This hotel wasn’t half bad. It
Zealand, a hole was punched was all the way bad.’ Bussell’s
in a wall of the men’s toilet, other masterpieces include
presumably by a peeved patron. ‘Please No Baptising’ above a
Instead of plastering over the sink, ‘Mirror Broken, Please See
damage, the bar’s manager put Estimated Face’ and a Creation
a frame around it and named of Adam-esque drawing titled
it Fragile Masculinity, by Artist The Cistern Chapel beneath the
Unknown, catapulting the bar to lid of a toilet cistern.
internet fame. If you are prone to choosing
While you may never travel your lodgings based on its
to Auckland to merely observe art collection, it might be
the state of the local male worth mentioning that you’re
population in person, there are
If walls could talk, what would expected to merely observe
many places you perhaps would hotel rooms say? Nicci Collier on the works, and not help
visit for an eyeful of some or the art of travel yourself!
after pillow talk?
kulula.com JUNE 2021 35EXPLORE THE ARTY-FARTY TRAVEL GUIDE
Sleep with one
eye open
You really must at
Cape Town’s Silo Hotel
where there’s art
everywhere. Award-
Take a time trip
At the 12 Decades Art
winning architecture,
Hotel in Maboneng,
too, plus 360-degree
each room represents a
views from the rooftop,
significant 10-year period
an edgy harbourside
in Joburg’s history – as
location, and the V&A
‘told’ by South African
Waterfront moments
artists and designers.
away. The Silo’s 300-piece
While an ordinary conscience The Minehaus room
art collection highlights
may be pricked by so much as a (1916–1926) by Dokter
up-and-coming talent
bar of soap pocketed from your and Misses features a
and established names,
hotel room, there are those who have Bauhaus-meets-gold-
and their art concierge
attempted (unsuccessfully) to get away with disrobing rush theme, while ‘50
offers personalised tours.
the very walls of their accommodations. After pinching Stories’ (1966–1976)
Plus, the hotel is literally
a £15 000 print of Hollywood icon Steve McQueen from by Colleen Alborough
built on a foundation of
Belfast’s Bullitt Hotel (inspired by the McQueen movie, explores the history of the
contemporary African
Bullitt) in 2016, Jill Purce – an Irish GP – said, ‘I think iconic Carlton Centre and
art: the Zeitz Museum of
I did it maybe because I could do it, it was a bit like The its influence on Joburg
Contemporary Art Africa
Thomas Crown Affair,’ referencing Pierce Brosnan’s life during this turbulent
(MOCAA) hums with
art-heist film. period. There’s art aplenty
talent below you. Don’t
Pictured above is the print being returned on the walls and loads
panic – there are special
to safety by relieved hotel staffers. of nearby galleries, too.
Covid rates for locals.
There was also the guest at the Beverly Wilshire 12decadeshotel.co.za
theroyalportfolio.com
who stole a marble fireplace. A Theft in Hotels study
by Wellness Heaven reveals that art heists happen five
times more often in expensive establishments; while TVs …or stay right
are nine times more likely to be stolen from a five-star next door
than a four-star hotel. Luxury mattresses follow If the price tag at Silo is
similar trends. a bit steep, the Radisson
Don’t let the criminal fascination with art put you off RED a few metres away is
planning your next outing – or even your entire trip – waiting for you, with the
around gorgeous collections, though. As this mini-guide added bonus of a sociable
reveals, art lovers are spoilt for choice when it comes rooftop, where there’s a
to picking a place to lay their head, and there are infinite pool, a bar, and excellent
ways to mix your taste for aesthetic adventure without sense of being above it all.
nicking the statues or punching a hole in the wall… radissonhotels.com
36 JUNE 2021 kulula.comTHE ARTY-FARTY TRAVEL GUIDE EXPLORE
Sip, swirl,
savour
Delaire Graff Estate, on
the Helshoogte Pass
Well-oiled art between Stellenbosch
In the Winelands, and Franschhoek, is
Tokara serves delicious
Shop, play, and owned by diamond Hot art and
wine and food and
makes award-winning
chow down magnate Laurence spicy chicken
Good news for those Graff and he’s put his True as Bob, the largest
olive oil. But it’s the personal art collection on
who are less arty- collection of publicly
amazing playground display, so between wine
farty, is that at a displayed contemporary
and a gallery space tastings or bites of frankly
growing number of southern African art in
refreshed quarterly fabulous food, you can
galleries art is not the world belongs to none
with both historic turn your attention from
the sole attraction. At other than Nando’s. Yes,
and contemporary the unparalleled views
Cape Town’s Norval purveyor of those peri-
exhibitions (the and admire sculptures
Foundation, you can peri drums, flame-grilled
restaurant interior (like the beaut above and
mix the grand tour thighs and cheeky TV
boasts striking large-
Pictures: Ilya Ilford for Unsplash, Supplied
of exhibitions (and several by Dylan Lewis) ads. Consisting of more
scale tapestries by or Tretchikoff’s original
permanently installed than 21 000 artworks, the
William Kentridge) that Chinese Girl (bought in
marvels like the one massive collection is
compel you to stay 2013 at a London auction
below in the outdoor on the walls of over
awhile, plus there’s for almost £1 million,
sculpture gallery) with 1 200 restaurants in
an outdoor sculpture or R14 million at the
some bespoke shopping 24 countries. The art is
garden to wander as time) or that Kentridge
(erotic artwork sourced from various
you work off all that collaboration above the
swimshorts, anyone?), artist development
good food. tokara.com fireplace… delaire.co.za
or stare at the mountain programmes, giving
through the windows regular support to over
at Skotnes Restaurant, 350 artists. Now that is .
while the children hit nandos.co.za
the playground and get
in some fresh air, too.
norvalfoundation.org
kulula.com JUNE 2021 37ENJOY A HEADY MIX
of Art And Wine
The Clarens Art and Wine Gallery, situated in the
centre of the artistic village of Clarens, is housed in a
historic sandstone building. The gallery is host to an
exquisite collection of artwork. Artwork includes both
classical and modern art, by artists such as Gregoire
Boonzaier, Adriaan Boshoff, Jimmy Law and Gail Catlin,
and many more. The Gallery also boasts a beautiful
collection of bronzes, glasswork and ceramic art.
The wine cellar offers the discerning wine enthusiast a
wide variety of excellent wines from South Africa.
Contact:
Julia Brownlee
072 291 0685
info@artandwine.co.za
Anton Grobbelaar
082 341 8161
anton@artandwine.co.za
www.artandwine.co.za
Chic, Cosy &
Charming
Situated on the historic Naauwpoort
farm, one of the original farms on
which Clarens was founded, The French
Cottage is a hidden gem exuding both
charm and luxury. Flanked on two sides
by sandstone cliffs and home to a large
overhanging cave with a waterfall, the
cottage is surrounded by fruit trees and
is sited alongside a river. It is indeed a
tranquil paradise.
Built in French country style from
Clarens’ sandstone, this luxury, fully
equipped, self-catering cottage sleeps
six people in three bedrooms, each with
their own entrance.
For more information, pricing and availability
Julia Brownlee - 072 291 0685
frenchcottageclarens@gmail.com
www.thefrenchcottage.co.zaFREE STATE OF YOUR DREAMS EXPLORE
eing busted in the girls’ night hike as “punishment” – but
dorm hiding in cupboards ‘Then orientation. We were it was amazing to see the stars
with the other boys after given a compass and a map and so vividly.’
bedtime.’ This is my Standard 4 had to find different sites in the More than 20 years on, with the
classmate Karl’s memory of our veld. It was autumn, it was cold. Golden Gate National Park and
Golden Gate school tour. It rings Some areas were burned with the town of Clarens (just 18km
a vague bell. Karl remembers new grass growing through and away) having become a getaway
an impressive amount, unlike ferns on the rocks. Think we also hotspot for Joburgers and
me. ‘Abseiling down a big bolder, did archery?’ Chris recalls the Durbanites, I wondered whether
hiking to see bushman paintings camp lady too. ‘I remember Lee the stars still shine so brightly
on the rock faces, lots of big falling down the mountain and at night. Has the area become
baboons, the camp lady who her shouting at him that his legs woefully commercialised, its
made Lee walk down the hill still worked and he could walk natural beauty spoilt? Or, worse,
after he cut his knee after he down without help. We were has Clarens become a ghost
fell. None of us liked her,’ talking late at night once, and one town in the wake of Covid-19’s
he says. of the supervisors took us on a tourism assault?
Golden Some destinations are gilded.
Clarens, though, is genuine gold,
says Nicci Collier
kulula.com JUNE 2021 39EXPLORE FREE STATE OF YOUR DREAMS
Neither, mercifully! Clarens, established
in 1912 and named after the Swiss town
in which Paul Kruger spent his last years
in exile, has retained its self-proclaimed
title as jewel of the Eastern Free State.
The area’s a haven for adventurers,
twitchers and San rock art seekers
and Clarens itself is a hub of creativity
and delightful small businesses. Julia
Brownlee, who has lived in Clarens
since 1991, explains: ‘We try to ensure
that Clarens doesn’t have any bad of almost 1 700m – possibly the highest Clockwise from above
It's not only the golden
franchises, so it remains really unique productive vineyard in the country. If you
light that glistens in
in that sense.’ With the hard lockdown take a fancy to their Bald Ibis Wines, the eastern Free State,
she admits it was touch-and-go for many why not stay over at the peaceful Rose but the green, too; The
businesses though. House cottages? Square is one of the
Julia runs the French Cottage – a Ollie Esplin, chairperson of the new kids on the Clarens
guesthouse on historic Naauwpoort, one Clarens Tourism Forum, has his personal block, or on the town
of the original farms on which Clarens favourites too. ‘I love that everywhere square, rather; a young
man leans out of the
was founded – and the Clarens Art and you go, there’s a picture,’ he says. ‘We’ve
window at one of the
Wine Gallery, where quality Cape wines just got this picturesque town with the town's stalwarts, The
rub shoulders with works by old masters mountain surrounding it. It’s amazing Highlander Restaurant
like Pierneef or Adriaan Boshoff, as well hiking in the valley or around the
as new young talent. To taste wines mountains – especially in autumn with all
grown locally (yes, really), Julia takes a the trees turning golden-yellow.’
drive on the Clarens-Fouriesburg Road. Ollie, who owns Clarens Xtreme, is a
The Mile High Vineyard sits at a height true outdoors man. So, when he’s not
enjoying a mushroom burger at the
Clarens Brewery, you’ll find him mountain
biking or paragliding. Or he’ll be sharing
this outdoor playground with other
adventurous spirits: Clarens Xtreme, in
a nutshell, offers my school tour but on
steroids… think white-water rafting, quad
bikes, ziplines and paintball for extra
thrills, and no unsympathetic camp lady
should you have any spills.
40 June 2021 kulula.comYou can also read
