Freak Me Out - Ulysse Nardin 2018
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YOU ARE BEAUTIFUL
CREATURES.
3
You stand ready for what might come next, with the power to jump from one world to the other. You step onto new grounds and explore infinite possibilities.
WE ARE UNSTOPPABLE
INNOVATORS.
We wilfully embrace the strange. We thrive to overcome. Our flow is steady. Day in, day out, we dare you to discover the unknown.
TOGETHER, WE ARE THE WAVES.
We flow in all directions.
We head for all horizons, in search of what rare gems may await.
Let your magnetic soul rise like the wave of the ocean, to your own hypnotic rhythm.
17
THEY KEEP OUR HERITAGE ALIVE AND VIBRANT, PULSATING WITH INGENIOUS
AUDACITY AND SAVOIR-FAIRE. THEY ARE THE LIFELINE OF OUR COMPANY, THE
FEARLESS AND MINDFUL GUARDIANS OF TRADITION, NAVIGATING PAST, PRESENT
AND FUTURE. THEY ARE THE CRAFTSPEOPLE BEHIND THE DESIGN AND MAKING OF
OUR WATCHES, AND IT IS THEIR AUDACIOUS DEDICATION THAT GALVANIZES THE
FOREVER-COMPELLING THRUST OF ULYSSE NARDIN.
TAKE THE NEW ULYSSE NARDIN FREAK, FEATURED IN THIS SPECIAL EDITION.
IT BEATS WITH OUR PASSIONATE, INNOVATIVE SPIRIT. IT IS AN EXPRESSION OF
OUR VISION FOR THE FUTURE, WITH CUTTING-EDGE MATERIAL AND TECHNO-
LOGY THAT ENABLE NEW LEVELS OF PRECISION, THAT REVEAL NEW DIMENSIONS
OF AESTHETICS, AND BEAUTY.
THIS ISSUE ALSO INCLUDES A RARE INTERVIEW WITH STÉPHANE VON GUNTEN,
THE MANAGER OF THE ULYSSE NARDIN MOVEMENTS RESEARCH AND DEVELOPMENT
LABORATORY. IT SHEDS NEW LIGHT ON WHERE WE PLAN TO GO NEXT. THIS IS JUST THE
BEGINNING, AN ENTHRALLING BEGINNING, OF OUR BEAUTIFUL FREAK ADVENTURE.
BON VOYAGE ON THIS NEW, BOLD JOURNEY.
PATRICK PRU N IAU X , CEO
21MEET ELIEVABL 23
DAMIEN
HIRST
LARGER
THAN LIFE
HAIL TO THE KING Born in 1965, Damien Hirst was raised in Leeds, In the last 30 years, over 90 solo Damien Hirst
in the industrial North of England. Once a teen- exhibitions have taken place worldwide. He has also
OF FREAKS. aged delinquent, arrested for shoplifting and given appeared in 300 group shows, and counting.
E grades at school, he is now one of the richest A modern time mythologist, Damien Hirst’s most
and most complex living artists in history. ambitious and complex project could very well be
‘Treasures from the Wreck of the Unbelievable’,
Drawn to the combination of hideous subject presented at the Palazzo Grassi, in Italy. Spectacular
matter and to pristine, detached photography, in scale and scope, the exhibition tells the story of the
the enfant terrible would later become famous ancient wreck of a vast ship, the ‘Unbelievable’ and
for his conjunctions of dead animal matter—or presents what was salvaged of its precious cargo.
representations of human death—with the gleaming Interestingly, the Palazzo exhibit’s first work is a
metal and glass vitrine. calendar stone bronze, a symbolic time-traveling
The story is that Damien Hirst spent part of his teen enabler, some might say, illustrating the Artist’s complex
years in a mortuary, of all places, at the university rapport with Time. What follows is a mind-shattering
anatomy department—where his girlfriend’s mother collection of beautiful monsters, rescued from the
worked—developing his talent by drawing cadavers bottom of the ocean, meant to live on and forever:
and body parts. Proof of the story, if need be, is shown chimeras, hybrid human-animal beings, metamorphic
in With Dead Head. The black and white photograph creatures, shapeshifters are dressed in coral,
of the artist posing with the head of a corpse, taken stone and seaweed. Goddesses and other godlike
when he was 16, is a record of his early fascination figures rise from the abyss, like the Greek god Cronos
with the physical reality of death and the medico- consuming his offspring. In Hirst’s labyrinth of a mind,
scientific apparatuses that surrounds it. Those years demons, hybrids, underworld entities, unicorns,
were spent pilfering and collecting pathology books, gorgons and cyclops cohabit in a wild embrace.
partly influenced by Francis Bacon, who would later
drink in the same pubs as him without the younger
artist ever drumming up the nerve to talk to his hero. ONCE A TEENAGED
His uncanny personality and talent got him into Gold- DELINQUENT.
smith’s Department of Art of the University of London,
where he quickly became the ringleader of a group NOW THE STUFF OF LEGEND.
of artists, dubbed the Young British Artists, or YBAs,
who were to graduate in the late 1980s. They rock- Damien Hirst’s work and his larger-than-life cabinet
eted to fame thanks to bold shock tactics, holding of curiosities continue to draw virulent reactions and
exhibitions in warehouses and factories. Damien Hirst critics, as well as the adoration of fans worldwide.
curated the first of these, Freeze, in 1988. Success Will he defy history and his detractors to remain, all
was immediate. and foremost, the visionary king of freak art some see
Ever since, the artist’s fascination, nay, obsession for in him, and the most curious contemporary artist of
life and death has translated into beautiful monsters his era? Only Time will tell.
and other freaky creatures, at times immortalized, at
others raised from the dead. His career has evolved
through sectioned sharks in formaldehyde, sheep in
formaldehyde (the subject of infamous vandalism,
what with ink being poured into the work), crucified
sheep in formaldehyde, zebra, golden calves with
golden horns, flying pigs and, quite naturally, unicorns
in, yes, formaldehyde.
25EAUTIFUL
REATURE. Being part of history is one thing. Changing it is The Dual Constant Escapement with Direct Silicium
the challenge of a lifetime. For decades, Ulysse Bonding for unparalleled homogeneity. The Silicium
Nardin has made a point of defying conventions. Balance Wheel with gold elements and stabilising
ITS ABERRATIONS ONLY With today’s world leaving little to the imagination, micro paddles. And the Grinder self-winding mech-
it appears more urgent than ever to create objects anism, which converts even the tiniest amount of
MAKE IT MORE ENTICING. that exert a relentless appeal to a new type of bold, kinetic energy into potential.
modern heroes.
To reinvent time as we know it, we will stop at nothing.
The story of the Freak, which started with a hopeful The Freak is a myth in the making. Its aberrations only
whisper and ended in a core-shaking revolution, has make it more enticing. Embrace your inner freak, with
lived up to its promise. Ulysse Nardin.
Each new model is a unique beauty of its own, one
that defies comprehension, and it time. The Freak has
inherited four new features from Innovision 2—Ulysse
Nardin’s audacious concept watch, unveiled at the
Geneva Watch Exhibition SIHH 2017.
Movement, Speed, Shape and Essence… These
designs and technologies redefine the relationship
between the past and the future in four swift moves:
27A QUESTION
STÉPHANE
VON
GUNTEN
OF TIME
STÉPHANE VON GUNTEN IS You’re the head of Ulysse Nardin’s Research Developing the new InnoVision 2 concept has
& Development laboratory. What does your job been an exhilarating challenge for your team.
FREAKISHLY BUSY. involve day to day? It’s a unique compendium of new watchmaking tech-
There are four distinct and complementary aspects to nologies and ideas. What can I say? With the impetus
my job… First and foremost? Designing and certifying of our product marketing team, our senior manage-
new Ulysse Nardin calibres. We’re constantly striving ment, and Romain Naguel, the main watchmaker on
for watchmaking perfection. Secondly, the search for the project, we’ve created a technological marvel.
new technologies and materials allowing unequalled
precision and performance. For example, with our While the technologies used in InnoVision 1
skilled colleagues at Sigatec, we’ve worked on new found their way into Ulysse Nardin’s production
silicon springs which make our watches more tolerant models, those in InnoVision 2 have benefited
of extreme temperature changes. Thirdly, supporting the 2018 FREAK VISION specifically. Does this
production. We’re obsessed with finding new ways to characterize Ulysse Nardin’s vision for
optimise work flow. And last, but not least, I look out the years to come?
for the intellectual protection of our ideas, keeping a Of the ten innovations presented in the first InnoVision
watchful eye on our competitors. Ulysse Nardin has in 2007, eight have been implemented in our cur-
over 130 patents. rent collections, with ten patents representing real
advances which we wish to include in our current
You often speak of your team, of their timepiece lines. As for the FREAK itself, well... prepare
unmatched expertise. to be freaked out.
I work with motivated, passionate engineers and
watchmakers who are around 40 years old, on aver-
age, and have been with us for 10 years. Their con- “WE’VE CREATED
nection to Ulysse Nardin is intense. Their technical
or scientific backgrounds are essential for research A TECHNOLOGICAL
and construction, but I’d say open-mindedness and
general motivation are the main strengths of our team. MARVEL.”
The local regions are full of watchmaking talent and
history. Interestingly, like me, most of them have a
watchmaking ancestor. What might be the next big challenges
for Ulysse Nardin—and the industry, even?
Where do your ideas come from? The primary focus of our research remains constant.
Honestly? The existing watchmaking heritage! We look to improve the precision and reliability of our
Numerous brilliant concepts can be found in antique mechanical watches. We always do consider new
watches. Young people interested in modern watches display options because there are countless new
should make it a point to explore watchmaking mu- avenues to explore. We’re on a quest for excellence,
seums, starting with the MIH in La Chaux-de-Fonds… in the respect of watchmaking traditions in terms of
Sometimes, you need blow off the dust, or introduce know-how, finish and elegance.
a new perspective that will work with our modern pro-
duction methods. Our contacts with material research
institutes also inevitably leads to new ideas.
29Ulysse Nardin continues to lead the way with its parts. To replace the traditional brass, 24-carat hard
pioneering spirit of innovation in timekeeping. gold wheels are used to reduce friction between
InnoVision 2 is a brand new watch concept wheels and pinions for more efficient force transfer
INNOVISION 2: launched at the SIHH 2017 exhibition in Geneva. and maximum energy efficiency.
Rolf W. Schnyder’s purchase of Uysse Nardin, back A Silicium balance wheel with gold mass elements
EXPLORING THE PAST, in 1983, heralded a new sense of innovation, leading and stabilizing micro paddles takes advantage of
to Astrolabium Galileo Galilei in 1985, the Planetari- the unusual homogeneity of silicium. Together with
INVENTING THE FUTURE.
um Nicolaus Copernicus 1988 and the Tellurium Jo- its lightness and ability to be formed into complex
hannes Kepler 1992, as well as the Perpetual Ludwig shapes using the DRIE process, this material—long
1996, a hitherto unparalleled perpetual calendar. a favourite of Ulysse Nardin—offers superior perfor-
These pieces, created by legendary horologist Ludwig mance. Silicium is enhanced by a sapphire coating on
Oeschlin, are accepted as milestones in watchmak- the InnoVision 2’s elongated centre wheel bridge to
ing, and contributed to Ulysse Nardin’s reputation of offer harder surfaces and higher mechanical stability.
visionary excellence.
The sixth innovation is the ‘Grinder’ self-winding sys-
In 2007, Ulysse Nardin released InnoVision, a new tem, which converts even the tiniest amount of kinetic
watch incorporating ten new features, which resulted energy into potential energy, winding the spring with
in Ulysse Nardin confirming its frontstage role in the virtually no idling. Sometimes, however, there can be
horological scene. Everything, from the new materi- too much kinetic energy, which is when the Glass
als, new technologies and new innovations it offered, bridge with integrated balance wheel shock protec-
carried the promise of unforeseen possibilities for the tion comes to the fore.
design of movement components. The aesthetic innovations used in the InnoVision 2 are
a testament to Ulysse Nardin’s sense of design as a
A decade of research, development and testing later, way of life. Perhaps the most striking are the delicate
Ulysse Nardin is unabashedly proud to present the Super-LumiNova filled channels integrated into the
embodiment of that very promise: InnoVision 2, with glass balance wheel bridge, which create impressive
ten innovations that represent as many leaps forward. luminous light effects when the watch is viewed in the
dark. In a bold break with tradition, the 1-11 and 13-23
That InnoVision 2 captures the current essence of time display changes according to the hour, with digits
Ulysse Nardin’s research and development expertise read through appropriately shaped apertures.
can be seen both in its design, from the self-winding
mechanism, oscillator and escapement to the time Finally, the unique, three-dimensional glass minute
display, and in its use of ground-breaking materials hand feature, created by high-precision laser cutting,
and production technologies. turns a simple measuring tool into a sculpture: the
crowning glory of a true masterpiece of both the art
First, the Dual Constant escapement, to ensure every and science of horology.
oscillation lasts exactly the same amount of time, for
unparalleled accuracy. The escapement element is
produced from monocrystalline silicium in two parts.
A Direct silicium bonding process known as DRIE is
used to create truly stable joins, so as to achieve sta-
bility, longevity and precision from this most vital of
FORTUNE
TELLER
31HOT
HORLOGERIE In all matters of sex, games of power are at play. designed his own loveseat, a piece of furniture with
BEHIND DOORS,
Choosing to exert one’s power, or to abandon it, stirrups designed to be installed at this address and
UNHINGED PLEASURES. brings a form of freedom. provide support for convoluted erotic configurations.
Over the last few centuries, the history of eroticism, Le Chabanais provided a whimsical arena for sexual
aka the educated, if somewhat sometimes uncivilized games that allowed for a cathartic reversal of power
pleasures of the flesh, has evolved. The greatest unthinkable in “real life”. Whips and shackles featured
philosophers have taken time to explore the subject in a plethora of props and trappings, to be used for
and its deeply rooted ramifications. And yet, some different roles in different games, inspired by the
things remain untouched. The heart wants what it literature of the Marquis de Sade, Sacher Masoch or
wants, and the body aspires to be surprised, to explore even the Kama Sutra, a text written in 7th century India,
beyond its limits, to pleasure and be pleasured. which describes different kinds of spanking, whipping,
hitting and pinching during lovemaking, laying down
State controlled legal brothels (then known as rules by stipulating which regions of the body were
«maisons de tolérance» or «maisons closes») started allowed to be targeted.
to appear in Paris and in other cities in the early 1800s, India was just one realm conjured by the vertiginous
and were highly popular throughout the century. labyrinth of themed rooms in the Chabanais. Others
By 1810, Paris alone had 180 officially approved included Pompeii, a room decorated by Toulouse
brothels, each run by a woman, by law. A turbulent Lautrec who lived in brothels for the greater part
world of subversive independence and dangerous of his life; a Japanese room; a medieval dungeon,
insubordination thrived in the high society brothels Louis XV, and a Moorish room, one of author Guy de
of 19th century Paris. Maupassant’s obsessions.
Some of the most expensive and best known maisons Clients of such renowned Pleasure Houses, en-
de tolérance in Paris cultivated a sense of luxury, sconced on velvet divans amid clouds of incense
class and manners which were reputed worldwide, and atmospheric lighting, with glasses of ‘green fairy’
becoming first and foremost houses of pleasure. circulating freely, could select whomever they desired
Behind the walls of these discreet locations, patrons to cast in their fantasies. Among these creatures,
could be transported on the most fabulous of voyages, known as cocottes, horizontales, amazones, lionnes
where sexual practices of all shapes and forms were or lorettes, were those with floral-scented names such
heralded into an art form. as Azelina or Calliope, and others such as Belle Cuisse
(Beautiful Thigh), or the more forbidding Crucifix.
Le Chabanais, opened in 1878, was amongst the
most prestigious Maisons of Paris. Run by an Irish With such partners in crime, the most salacious sce-
native, Madame Kelly, its glittering clientele featured narios were made possible. The power of imagination
the crowned heads of Europe. Among these celeb- had no limits when it came to unleashing one’s inner
rities, Prince Edward himself, known as Bertie, had freak. That power still prevails today.
33Unfold your
inner dimensions.
CURIOSITY KILLED THE CAT? WE BEG TO DIFFER.
CURIOSITY IS EXACTLY WHAT GIVES ULYSSE NARDIN
THE AUDACITY TO TRANSGRESS, TO CHALLENGE EACH CHOICE
AND EVERY TECHNOLOGY WE SET OUR EYES ON.
THIS YEAR, WE BRING YOU FOUR DIFFERENT CURIOSITIES,
BOUND TO SUIT YOUR MOOD OR REFLECT A STATE OF MIND.
EXPLORE THE WORLD, WITH THE FREAK.
CONNECT WITH YOUR DEEPEST SELF,
WITH THE DIVER DEEP DIVE.
UNLEASH YOUR PRIMAL SENSES WITH EROTICA.
REIGN OVER TIME ITSELF, WITH CLASSICO JADE.
CURIOSITY, ONE OF THE GREATEST VIRTUES.
SEE FOR YOURSELF.
35Curiosity No1
FREAKUS VISIONUM
FREAK VISION
Ø 45 mm - 2505-250
H/M functions indicated by rotation of the movement.
“Grinder” Automatic movement system with pawls and flexible guidance.
Ulysse Nardin Anchor Constant Escapement, 2.5 Hz oscillator.
Large diameter silicium oscillator with nickel inertia-blocks.
Self-regulating silicium micro-blades.
Manual winding. Caliber UN-250.
Platinium case with lateral “brancard” side bars coated blue rub.
Water-resistant to 30 m.
Sapphire crystal, with engraved hour and minute indexes.
Rubber-like leather strap and titanium folding clasp.
37WHEN CONCEPT
BECOMES REALITY.
M E E T T H E U N B E L I E VA B L E
Ulysse Nardin breaks moulds, chal- bilizing micro-blades and a new case
lenges conventions and dares you to design made even thinner by a box-
explore treasures from the ocean. domed crystal.
Some birds are not meant to be Time is still indicated in the “Freak”
caged, that’s all. This is called Free- manner that sets the collection apart:
dom and Freedom lies in being bold. by the baguette movement it-self, a
Join us, eyes on the world, travel “flying carrousel” rotating around its
through time, and discover the new own axis. Yet the design components
Freak. Are you ready to believe? are completely different. The new 3D
carved upper bridge is inspired by a
Introducing the first automatic watch boat’s hull. The new box-domed sap-
in the Freak Collection, the Freak phire allows for a thinner middle and
Vision: a Haute Horlogerie wonder bezel. Finally, the entire case itself is
incorporating the revolutionary inno- new–horns, bezel, the rubber on the
vations unveiled in the Ulysse Nardin side–making for a look that is much
InnoVision 2 Concept Watch at SIHH more open and generous. Ulysse
2017. Among the game-changers: a Nardin is a pioneer of innovations in
super-light silicium balance wheel timekeeping, not least for its unprec-
with nickel mass elements and sta- edented mastery of silicium, which
it introduced to Haute Horlogerie in
the first Freak timepiece, in 2001.
39Curiosity No2
DEEPUM DIVERUS
DIVER DEEP DIVE HAMMERHEAD SHARK
Ø 46 mm
3203-500LE-3/93-HAMMER
Manufacture Movement with Ulysse Nardin certificate.
Automatic screw-on decompression valve system at 9 o’clock.
Silicium spiral and anchor escapement.
Automatic winding. Caliber UN-320.
Titanium case.
Stainless steel caseback, stamped with hammerhead design.
Water-resistant to 1,000 m.
Crystal sapphire with anti-reflection treatment.
Rubber strap with expandable element.
43GO DEEP.
U LY S S E N A R D I N P L U N G E S
1 ,0 0 0 M E T R E S U N D E R WAT E R
Very robust, very functional, very ed edition (300 pieces) masterwork
technical, very sporty: introducing include a removable titanium guard
the remarkable new hero piece of on the crown at 2 o’clock and a
the iconic Ulysse Nardin DIVER helium release valve at 9 o’clock, for
Collection—a resolutely masculine, deep dives of prolonged periods of
highly reliable professional diving in- time or under saturation. The rubber
strument and an exceptionally bold strap is a first: it has an expandable
sports watch. Ulysse Nardin’s links element that adjusts to changes in
to the sea run deep. A recognized wrist size during dives, caused by the
pioneer of watchmaking innovation compression of your neoprene diving
since 1846, the Manufacture’s early suit. The look is stark yet shark:
renown was built on the peerless pre- 15 hammerhead sharks adorn the
cision and reliability of its marine dial; another is stamped on the case-
chronometers—essential navigation- back; a bright red one swims on the
al instruments that helped seafarers side of the crown guard; and another
determine longitude by means of ce- decorates the dial counter. Destined
lestial navigation. Along with 1 km for fans of active leisure and all water
water resistance—the world record sports, the Diver Deep Dive will es-
diving depth is 701 meters—new pecially appeal to men looking for a
technical stand-outs on this limit- timepiece that is striking looking but
not fragile, that they can wear even
when things get very intense.
45Curiosity No3
CLASSICUM VOYEURUS
CLASSIC MINUTE REPEATER VOYEUR
Ø 42 mm - 739-61/VOYEUR
Limited Edition (18 pieces)
Minute repeater. Chimes the hours, quarter hours and minutes.
Animated Jaquemart automatons, on-demand pushbutton activated.
Manual winding. Caliber UN-73.
18-carat rose gold case.
Water-resistant to 30 m.
Crystal sapphire with anti-reflection treatment.
Rubber strap with folding buckle.
49HOT HORLOGERIE.
U LY S S E N A R D I N C L A S S I C
V OY E U R F R E A K S O U T S I H H 2 0 1 8
An acknowledged pioneer of Haute foreground, one couple stand in their
Horlogerie innovation since 1846, nightclothes, the woman behind the
Ulysse Nardin has long been the man, in a Louis XIV salon complete
unrivaled master of repeater tech- with meticulously engraved canapé
nology—complications that chime and carpet. The man has pulled open
the hours and, in the case of minute a curtain dividing the room to reveal
repeaters like the Classic Voyeur, not just the time, but a naked couple,
the quarter hours and minutes. The making passionate love.
Manufacture is also renowned for its Audacious, yet delightfully elegant
Jaquemart repeaters, which tradi- and charming, the Classic Voyeur is a
tionally feature an automated figure very exclusive creation. Only 18 piec-
striking the hours and minutes on a es are in the edition. The sultry
clock tower bell. princess edition is in platinum, with
The enticingly erotic Jaquemarts 60 shimmering baguette diamonds
on the Classic Voyeur’s anthracite on her bezel, for a total of 3.5 cts.
grey dial are of a different order The latest iteration of Ulysse Nardin’s
all together: two beautifully pro- longstanding tradition of erotic
portioned couples fashioned from watchmaking, it is an absolute must
18-carat pink gold or white gold and for Jaquemart enthusiasts, and an
caught “in flagrante delicto.” In the irresistible object of desire for ad-
venturous collectors of provocative
Haute Horlogerie.
51Curiosity No4
CLASSICUM JADUS.
CLASSICO JADE
Ø 37 mm - 8153-201B/60-06
Dark red, with diamond bezel
Self-winding movement.
Caliber UN-815.
Water-resistant to 30 m.
Stainless steel case.
Dial with white mother-of-pearl,
dark red arabic numerals.
Anti-reflective sapphire crystal.
Dark red leather strap with tang buckle.
53JADE REBORN.
U LY S S E N A R D I N
ROUNDS OUT A CLASSIC
Introducing the new Classico Jade in the Classic Collection. Graced
37 mm timepieces: five irresistible with classic hour, minute and second
queens of steel demurely sized in hands powered by the collection’s
blue, grey or red, with swirling dedicated calibre, the self-winding
waves of diamonds on their glamor- and ever-reliable UN-815, the flag-
ous mother-of-pearl dials. In 2013, ship editions fuse Haute Joaillerie
Ulysse Nardin launched Jade as a techniques and materials with
tribute to a revered gemstone that cutting-edge innovation, time-hon-
the royal court in China considered oured craftsmanship and captivat-
“crystallized magic”—the link be- ing feminine allure. Five years, five
tween heaven and earth. Now, five proud new queens, each a noble
years later, five new Jade ladies pay incarnation of timeless femininity.
homage to an even more precious Competitively priced and accessible,
stone: the diamond. gorgeous day or night, with jeans or
These exquisite Jades have a new at a red carpet gala, they are new
round case shape and a new home contemporary classics, perfect com-
panions for every situation today’s
woman faces.
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