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AJET
News & Events, Arts & Culture, Lifestyle, Community
APRIL
2016
don’t stop that k-pop
mikanshu, i choose you
kickboxing in kumamoto
workout the workout gear
concert culture comparisons
The Japanese Lifestyle & Culture
Magazine Written by the International
Community in Japan
Have NATIONAL
your
say! AJET COUNCIL
2016-17
ELECTIONS
Vote for next year’s
council from
11th to 24th April
bit.ly/AJETvote
CREDITS &
National AJET Council 2016-17 Elections 2
Letter from the Editor 6
News & Events
Japan and Korea’s “Comfort Women” Deal 10
CONTENTS
Event Calendar 14
In the News 19
Arts & Culture
Hallyumania 22
Now Showing 25
Head Editor Graphic Design & Layout Public Relations Faces in Fashion 26
Rajeev Rahela Patrick Finn Jasmin Lau Rock Out with Style 28
ASSISTANT Editor Assistant Designers SOCIAL MEDIA Remember the Phallic Light Sticks 30
Timothy Saar Mathew Cartwright Keith Lawton Naoshima, Teshima, and the Joy of Living 36
Hannah Killoh Lifestyle
Section Editors Copyediting
Amy Koller
Alexandra Brueckner Thea Felmore Yuki-Matsuri 44
Hiroshi Fukushima Cover Photo Liam Nolan Four Days in Korea 50
Elena Galindo Natalie Ho
Contributors Stuff to Get Excited About 54
Erica Grainger
TABLE OF CONTENTS Photo Steven Carrera Behind the Counter 60
Leah Gray
Jasmin Lau Lilly Gray Running for Sweets 64
Rayna Healy
Orrin Heath
Cameron Joe Additional Photos Homemade Umeshu 66
Miriam Matthews
Pia Peterson Steven Carrera
Greg Rammit Community
Margaret Pickard Sterling Diesel
Illaura Rossiter How Do You Run? 70
Mira Richard-Fioramore duggadugdug
Kostadina Sachinis Kaizen Fighter 74
Timothy Saar Patrick Finn
Chris Santos
Jennifer Sanchez Lilly Gray When Culture is Thicker Than Blood 76
Mika Thornburg
Becca Simas Genevieve Harnett Contributing to Connect 80
Joyce Wan Orrin Heath
Sabrina Zirakzadeh iTunes
Hannah Killoh
Jacob Kownack
Jasmin Lau
Lyle Nisenholz
Pia Peterson
Pixabay
Rajeev Rahela
Greg Rammit
Illaura Rossiter
Becca Simas
Texture.com
Melody Tsukahara
Joyce Wan
Wikicommons
This magazine contains original photos used with permission, as well as free-use images. All included
photos are property of the author unless otherwise specified. If you are the owner of an image featured
in this publication believed to be used without permission, please contact the Head of Graphic Design
and Layout, Patrick Finn, at patrick.finn@ajet.net.
This edition, and all past editions of AJET Connect, can be found online at AJET.net here. Read Connect
online and follow us on ISSUU.
4 MARCH 2016 5
LETTER FROM
THE EDITOR
Hello! Welcome to the April 2016 edition of Connect magazine.
Spring is here and surrounding us with beautiful shades of pink. Definitely an image many
people relate with Japan. But for many of us, it is also the mark of a new working/studying year.
The beautiful flowers are always a great way to start the year, however fleeting they may be.
What have you been up to of late? Feel free to show us! As an avid photographer myself, I enjoy
looking at our submissions, and knowing that there is massive talent within these communities.
So please continue sending us updates on your lives through our social media channels.
Talking of art in all its forms, ‘C’ The Art Issue will be hitting your dashboards soon, so please
do keep an eye out! We’ve had some wonderful submissions, and I’m so excited to see how the
Art team have put it all together.
A few stories from this month: the collective effervescence of K-Pop festivals; pumpkin piers and
art islands; upping your liquor game with a Mikanshu recipe; a collection of wonderful photos
from the famous snow festival; the various cultural barriers we’re faced with in Japan; plus tons
more!
Last month marked the five-year mark of the devastation that occurred throughout Japan on
March 11th. From the various conversations I have had with those who were high up in these
mountains, it will reside as a memory in the hearts and minds of all the people in Japan.
Despite the tragedy, it is important to know that the worst hit areas are rebuilding and creating
a livable, happy environment. The strength of people is shown by how they can react in adverse
situations, and sometimes it’s wonderful. Let that be some inspiration for your month ahead.
As always, have a wonderful month.
PHOTO
Rajeev Rahela SUBMISSIONS
Head Editor
2nd-year Gifu ALT interested
in submitting a
cover photo for
the next issue?
CLICK here for more
information and
to submit your
photos!
6 MARCH 2016 7
NEWS
News & Events
Japan and Korea’s “Comfort Women” Deal 10
Event Calendar 14
In the News 19
& EVENTS
NEWS EDITOR
connect.news@ajet.net
Margaret Pickard
Enkai, sleep, enkai, crack open the windows
for the first time in 6 months. It’s truly spring.
EVENTS EDITOR
connect.events@ajet.net
Jennifer Sanchez
“ANYTHING can be solved with rock-paper-
scissors. Anything.” - A certain first grader.
Illaura Rossiter
8 MARCH 2016 9
JAPAN
On the 28th of December 1910 – Aug 22
2015, Japan and South Korea Japan annexes and occupies Korea.
announced a groundbreaking
agreement to settle the
AND
controversial and provocative 1931
issue of “comfort women”, Japanese Military begins to use local comfort
a euphemism for the sex women.
slaves used in WWII (1). It
has remained a key issue in
KOREA’S
the two countries’ continued 1937
rocky relationship, even 70 Comfort women system institutionalised after
years after the dissolution of the Nanking Massacre.
the Empire of Japan.
The ag reement was 1941 – Dec 7
“COMFORT
announced just before the Japan officially enters WWII.
50th anniversary of Japan-
South Korea diplomatic
relations and seems at 1945 – Aug 15
surface level to benefit the Japan officially surrenders.
WOMEN”
governments of both nations.
For South Korea, they can
present a final resolution to 1945 – 1953
the remaining 46 comfort Division of Allied controlled Korea, Korean
women (known as halmoni War, Division of Koreas.
DEAL
in Korea, an affectionate
term for grandmother) whilst
1951
using the cash injection from
South Korean government demands
the Japanese government
compensation for everyone involved in the
to aid and memorialise
Japanese occupation. They eventually settle on
them. For Japan, the most
CHRIS SANTOS (HOKKAIDO) a 10-year soft impact loan.
beneficial part of the deal
is the end to international
mudslinging regarding the 1973
use of sex slaves. Japanese Kokou Senda publishes his controversial book
Prime Minister Shinzo Abe “Military Comfort Women” in what is thought
has stated, “Japan and South to be the first postwar mention of comfort
Korea are entering a new women.
era…we should not drag
this problem into the next
generation.” (2) 1991 – Aug 14
Kim Hak-Sun, former comfort woman, gives
However, reactions in a public testimony about her experiences,
both countries reveal shocking South Korea into addressing the
dissatisfaction with the issue.
agreement. In Korea, activist
groups expressed bitter
disappointment that the 1991 – DEC 6
deal lets Japan simply accept Kim Hak-Sun and two others file a lawsuit
“deep responsibility” without against the Japanese Government.
admitting to the systematic
sex slavery enforced by the
Japanese government during 1992 – Present
the war. The most poignant “Wednesday Protests” begin, outside the
reactions came from the Japanese embassy in Seoul every Wednesday.
MARCH 2016 NEWS & EVENTS 11
Terms of the Deal former comfort women of a young girl sitting on a deal is uncertain; the comfort 1992 – July 6
• Japanese government themselves. Lee Yong-soo (88) chair, representing Korean women issue was “solved” Japan publishes its first report on comfort
pays 1 billion yen ($8.5m, stated, “I wonder whether victims of sex slavery. Every for one month before Japan women, admitting their use but denying
£5.6m) to South Korean the talks took place with Wednesday since 1992, rocked the boat by denying its coercion.
administered fund. the victims really in mind. protesters gather opposite involvement with sex slavery
We’re not after the money. the consulate to protest in a U.N. report in January.
• Japanese foreign minister If the Japanese committed Japan’s non-admittance South Korea warned Japan 1993 – Aug 4
issues public apology. their sins, they should offer over comfort women. The it was endangering the Kono Statement – Japan admits coercing
• Japanese prime minister direct official government wording in the deal seems agreement, but they stopped women into becoming comfort women. Wording
offers private phone call compensation.” (1) intentionally vague, stating short of taking any action (8). and lack of a full admission of fault causes
apology to South Korean that South Korea will “look It’s unlikely that this issue further friction in coming years.
president. The subject of compensation into” its removal. Japan has has been truly laid to rest,
and how it is issued has long previously taken issue with but we will likely look back on
• Japan accepts “deep been a bone of contention for the 28th of December deal as 1994
San Francisco over a similar
responsibility” for the the victims. Previously from a milestone in Asian politics, Asian Women’s Fund set up by Japan, money
memorial.
issue. 1994-2007, Japanese citizens one way or another. comes only from private Japanese donators.
• South Korea will consider operated and administered Internationally, the reaction
the issue “finally and the Asian Women’s Fund for to the agreement was also Chris Santos is a 3rd year
irreversibly” resolved. former comfort women. This mixed. The Taiwanese JET in the horse-breeding 2007 – March 1
fund was made up entirely government was happy town of Shizunai, Hokkaido. Japanese Government makes a cabinet
• South Korea will of private donations from In his free time, he watches
with the move and called decision that “no evidence was found that the
“look into” removing a Japanese citizens and did far too much ice hockey to be
for Japan to reach a similar Japanese army or the military officials seized
controversial statue. not come directly from the healthy.
deal with them (4). Although the women by force.”
• Both sides will stop government (3). The new deal negotiations started in
criticism over the issue. sees money coming from the January 2016, the Japanese Sources
Japanese government via the government stated that it (1) Japan and Korea Agree on 2007 – March 31
South Korean government is not looking to make any Deal Asian Women’s Fund dissolved.
who, according to the deal, further deals at this time. In (2) Japan Says Sorry
is unlikely to give cash China, the government held (3) General Timeline
payments to the former sex a press conference regarding 2011 – Dec 14
slaves. The victims have (4) China, Taiwan Apply Pressure Comfort women memorial erected outside the
the agreement and stated
long campaigned for direct they were taking a “wait and (5) Filipino Comfort Women Japanese embassy in Seoul.
and official compensation see” approach. The Chinese (6) US Welcomes Japan, South
as well as personal, individual media was damning about Korea Deal
apologies from the Japanese the deal, saying it did not (7) North Korea Derides
2014 – Feb 20
government, neither of which go far enough (4). They also Agreement Yoshihide Suga (Chief Cabinet Secretary)
they are getting in this “final called Japan’s sincerity suggests the Japanese government may
(8) Seoul Criticizes Japan’s UN
and irreversible” deal (1). into question (4). In the Report
reconsider the Kono Statement.
Philippines, former comfort
In Japan, the reaction was (9) Wikipedia Comfort Women
women sought the help of
also muted, though some their government to strike a duggadugdug 2014 – March 14
of the press expressed similar deal, but it fell on deaf Shinzo Abe confirms the government will not
dissatisfaction with Japan’s ears, and now the women are alter the Kono Statement.
concessions. Journalist looking to take legal action
Nobuo Ikeda tweeted, “Japan against the government (5).
pays 1 billion yen and our The Obama administration 2015 – Dec 28
PM apologises but South applauded the deal in the Japan and South Korea announce an
Korea will ‘consult about the USA (6), whilst North Korea agreement “settling the issue.”
girl’s statue’—that’s not a condemned it and accused
diplomatic negotiation.” (1) the USA of conspiring to
Indeed, the statue outside strengthen their allies in Asia 2016 – Jan 31
the Japanese consulate in against the hermit kingdom Japan responds to a U.N. committee,
Seoul in 2011 has irked (7). denying its use of comfort women. South
Japanese pundits since it Korea responds, warning Japan that it is
was erected. The statue is What the future holds for this endangering the Dec 28 agreement.
12 NEWS & EVENTS MARCH 2016 NEWS & EVENTS 13
EVENTS CALENDAR
March 1 2 3
Bifuka Town’s Ainu Birch Obasama Festival Hitachi Dance Festival
Festival 03 April 2016 09-10 April 2016
23 April (Seminar) - 24 April 77 Kannariobasama Sanjin, Bikku Center, Hitachi City,
(Festival) 2016 Kurihara City, Miyagi Ibaraki
Around Bifuka Town, Website Website
Hokkaido
Block 1 Website Yonezawa Uesugi Festival Ashikaga Flower Park
29 April - 03 May 2016 Fuji Monogatari
Hirosaki Sakura Festival Uesugi Shrine, Yonezawa 16 April 2016 - 22 May 2016
23 April - 05 May 2016 City, Yamagata 607 Hasamacho, Ashikaga
Hirosaki Castle, Hirosaki Website City, Tochigi
City, Aomori Website
Website Tendo Sakura Festival
and Ningen Shougi Kazami Kaguya
Hitaka Hibuse Festival 23-24 April 2016 03 April 2016
28-29 April 2016 Maizurusan Sancho, Tendo Osugi Shrine, 744 Kazami,
Mizusawa-ku, Oshu City, City, Yamagata Shioya-gun, Shioya-cho,
Iwate Website Gunma
Block 2 Website Website
Tanagura Clan Festival
Block 5 Chiaki Park Sakura 18-19 April 2016 Rice Planting Festival
Block 3 Festival Tanagura Castle, Higashi 04 April 2016
Block 6
Mid to Late April 2016 Shirakawa-gun, Tanagura Chichibu Jinja, Chichibu
Block 9 Chiaki Park, Akita City, cho, Fukushima City, Saitama
Akita Website Website
Block 10 Block 4 Website
Takada Castle Sakura Ueda Castle
Festival Senbonzakura Festival
Block 7 01-17 April 2016 06-17 April 2016
44-1 Takada Park, Joetsu Ueda Castle Park,
Block 8 City, Honjo-cho, Niigata Ninomaru, Ueda City,
Website Nagano
Website
Block 11
What’s a
block?
Click here!
14 NEWS & EVENTS MARCH 2016 NEWS & EVENTS 154 5 6 7 8 9
Narita Taiko Festival 28th Fuchu Kokusui-En Tsubaki Shrine Yabusame Tobaharu Festival Sakura Festival Pillar Festival of Suwa
09-10 April 2016 10 April 2016 Event 09-10 April 2016 10 April 2016 Shrine
Mt. Narita Shinshouji 5692 Nagasawa, Fuchu 03 April 2016 Oyama Zumi Shrine, 892-1 Kotohira-cho, 17 April 2016
Temple, Narita City, Chiba Town, Toyama Tsubaki Shrine, Kokacho, Tobahau Shrine, Mie Nakatado-gun, Kagawa Suwa Shrine, Chizu-cho,
Website Website Shiga Website Website Tottori
Website Website
Edo Yoshiwara Oiran Walk Daishouji Sakura Festival 62nd Ikeda Satsukiyama Matsuyama Spring
& Asakusa Sakura Matsuri 09-10 April 2016 12th Kyoto Sakura Sakura Festival Festival Matsue Warrior Festival
09 April 2016 Daishouji, Kaga City, Yosakoi 02-03 April 2016 01-03 April 2016 02 April 2016
4 Asakusa - Senzoku Ishikawa 02-03 April 2016 Satsukiyama Park, Ikeda 1, Marunouchi, Matsuyama Matsue Castle, Matsue City,
Asakusa Komatsubashi Website Umekouji Park/Okazaki City, Osaka City, Ehime Shimane
Street, Taito-ku, Tokyo Park, Kyoto City, Kyoto Website Website Website
Website Fukui Spring Festival Website
09 April 2016 Empor Jimmu 2600 Years Doronko Festival Tsuyama Sakura Festival
58th Kamakura Festival Fukui City, Fukui Hojo Sekku Festival Festival 02-04 April 2016 01-15 April 2016
10-17 April 2016 Website 02-03 April 2016 03 April 2016 6600 Nagahama, Kochi City, 134 Yamashita, Tsuyama
Tsuruoka Hachiman Shrine, Sumiyoshi Shrine, Kasei Kashihara, Kume-cho, Nara Kochi City, Okayama
Kamakura City, Kanagawa The 40th Kakamigahara City, Hyogo Website Website Website
Website Square Sakura Festival Website
02-03 April 2016 Kamiataki Shrine Spring Onomichi Minato Festival
Maizuru Castle Sakura Kakamigahara City Public Festival 23-24 April 2016
Festival Park, Gifu 29 April 2016 8 Higashigosho-cho,
Until 17 April 2016 Website Kamiataki Shrine, Onomichi-shi, Hiroshima
Maizuru Castle Park, Kofu Hidakagawa Town, Website
City, Yamanashi Inuyama Festival Wakayama
Website 02-03 April 2016 Website Mine Sakura Matsuri
Inuyama Castle, Inuyama 01-03 April 2016
Iwata Grand Festival City, Aichi 326-2 ominechohigashibun,
23 April 2016 Website Mine City, Yamaguchi
Iwata City, Shizuoka Website
Website
16 NEWS & EVENTS MARCH 2016 NEWS & EVENTS 17IN THE NEWS
10 11 February - March
February 26 in trying to decide upon a dates are restricted to simply
design for the 2020 Games: spending time together and
Fears of a major population
the previous design’s space- are not sexual in nature.
Arita Ceramic Fair We apologize for the lack of decline are confirmed as
age look and ballooning costs However, U.N. human rights
Block 11 events this month. Japan’s population falls for
Arita, Saga-ken caused uproar before it was official Maud de Boer-
If/when we get them, we will the first time since census
29th April - May 5th eventually scrapped. Buquicchio, who came to
update the issue. records began in the 1920s.
Website investigate joshi kousei last
Reports have foreseen that low Source 1, 2
fall, argues that girls are
Beppu Hattou Onsen In the meantime, if you have birth rates and a population
March 8 often coerced into providing
Festival any events to promote for living longer will continue to
sexual services to clients
Beppu, Oita-ken Block 11, please let us know contribute to the country’s A recent split in the yakuza, for more money. Because
April 1st - April 3rd by contacting us here. rapid aging. The UN predicts Japan’s organized crime victims range in age from
Website Japan’s population will group, has led police to 12 to 17, Boer-Buquicchio
shrink from its current 127 beef up efforts to combat claims Japan still has a
The Kingdom of Light million to 83 million by 2100. a potentially vicious war major issue with the sexual
Illumination The population has decreased brewing between gang exploitation of children it
Huis Ten Bosch, Sasebo, by nearly 1 million people members. Based in the needs to address. Abe’s
Nagasaki-ken (0.7%) since 2010, with the western city of Kobe, the administration rebutted that
Now - April 18th decline hitting rural areas Yamaguchi-gumi splintered the report is not “based on
Website such as Tohoku especially after 13 subsidiary gangs objective information”.
hard. Experts say that, in were ousted following their
Fukuoka Castle Sakura order to maintain the current leaders’ complaints over a Source
Festival population, an average of 2.1 new yakuza don, Shinobu March 14
Fukuoka Castle Ruins, births per woman must be Tsukasa. Police fear that the
Maizuru Park, Fukuoka achieved. fracture may lead to a chain The US and France pledge
City. Fukuoka-ken reaction of gangs forming new to partner with Japan in
Source
March 25th - April 3rd alliances and battling over developing technologies to
Website March 7 territory, potentially rivaling cleanup the Fukushima
the bloodshed seen the last nuclear disaster site. Five
Japan’s Olympic Stadium
time Yamaguchi-gumi split years after the accident,
woes continue as criticism
in 1984. That conflict left which was triggered by a
mounts over an apparent
25 people dead and over 70 tsunami that swamped the
oversight in failing to include
injured, including passersby reactors, radioactive material
a place for the Olympic
and one policeman. still lays pooled in the ruins as
cauldron in the newly selected
scientists lack a safe method to
design. A place for the iconic Source 1, 2
got an event tackle the monumental task
flame, which is a required
to promote? March 9 of removing it. The project is
feature of every Olympic
let our editor expected to take as long as
stadium, may be difficult to The U.N. releases a report
know here! four decades to complete, with
find as the proposed design detailing Japan’s joshi kousei decommissioning expected to
uses a large amount of wood. industry and urging the begin in 2021.
While organizers claim that country to ban the business.
they were merely keeping the Also known as “JK business”, Source
location a surprise, architect teenage schoolgirls are paid Sterling Diesel
Kengo Kuma blames the up to 5000 yen an hour to
government for not specifying go on dates with customers.
the need for a cauldron. This JK companies claims these
is not Japan’s first incident
18 NEWS & EVENTS MARCH 2016 NEWS & EVENTS 19ARTS
Arts & Culture
Hallyumania 22
Now Showing 25
Faces in Fashion 26
& CULTURE
Rock Out with Style 28
Remember the Phallic Light Sticks 30
Naoshima, Teshima, and the Joy of Living 36
CULTURE EDITORS ENTERTAINMENT EDITORS
connect.culture@ajet.net connect.entertainment@ajet.net
Rayna Healy Timothy Saar
In overdrive to cross things off the bucket list Weird how Spring Break in JET means the
this spring: sumo, Tokyo, and convincing my same thing as it did in college: road trips and
63 year old Japanese teacher to party with me video games.
are up next.
Sabrina Zirakzadeh
Joyce Wan Moving to the big city means I get to check
New school year, new batch of first graders to out more shows, more exhibits, and more cool
events than ever before! Hooray!
ask me whose mom I am.
Illaura Rossiter
FASHION EDITORS
connect.fashion@ajet.net
Elena Galindo
Erica Grainger
April means hanami season and I’ll be pretty
in pink under the sakura!
20 MARCH 2016 21HALLYUMANIA
entire performance, which we group in Japan (2). excitement and want to share
expected by then to be a full it with everyone there.”
discography and dance battle, The music and the pretty
The “Korean Wave”
lasted for a grand total of 10 faces might grab you, but it’s Pre-concert is primetime for
minutes. the fan experience that has beginning this exchange.
kept me and many others Fans dress up for concerts,
Sweeping Japan
We all agreed: it was amazing. coming back for more. arriving in color-coordinated
pairs or era-specific outfits
“The excitement that everyone of their favorite member,
LILLY GRAY (FUKUOKA) shares is just as important as some so convincing they draw
The “Hallyu Wave” swept the performance itself,” says confused crowds. Sometimes
In April of 2011, I told my traditional drums or hanbok over Japan in the early 2000s, Melody Tsukahara, an ALT the whole family is involved.
worth of terrible weather,
host mom I was staying at demonstration: every single bringing with it dramas, in Toyama who has been to There is a mutual exchange
complemented nicely by
a friend’s house and went one of us was desperate to fashion, and K-pop. K-pop several concerts in Japan. She of pictures and compliments,
omnipresent drums. Girls
to sleep in the park with get close enough to see or, took off and continues to gain shares my experience of fans a comparison of group faves
bent double to protect their
300 strangers. My friends god willing, be seen by our popularity. Queens KARA as welcoming, supportive, and outfits.
carefully made fans; we all
and I wanted to stake out a favorite K-pop group. was the first female foreign and enthusiastic.
sank several inches into a
spot in the growing line of group to play Tokyo Dome Becca Scheiris, another
slurry of mud and ramen-stall
people waiting overnight for My first K-pop (Korean pop) (1). This year, senior group “I’ve never felt like anyone Toyama ALT, saw Big Bang
runoff. When the five perfectly
a Korean Cultural festival on fan experience was marked Big Bang completed their at a concert was trying to in Osaka with me, dressed as
styled boys of SHINee finally
the Osaka Castle grounds. by over 20 hours of standing sixth tour and is currently be cooler or impress anyone G-Dragon in a stunning red
appeared onstage at the
We weren’t there for the in what felt like four season’s the highest earning foreign else, they’re there for the fur coat. She says she likes
event’s culmination, their...I told my host mom I was NOW SHOWING
staying at a friend’s house and Staff Movie Picks
went to sleep in the park with
300 strangers.
how “encompassing” K-pop is, I’ve ever had. It’s collective, I did in fact feel it, and it just
and how joining a fan club— sincere adoration, free of happened naturally.”
she’s a VIP, the name for Big irony. Definitely not exclusive
Bang supporters—makes you to K-pop, but invaluable to A good example of this is the
feel instantly connected to me as the first place I’d felt encore chant that Japanese
the performer. that since I was a child. VIPs use to get Big Bang
to come back out on stage.
Japan’s fan culture is I was taught it by an older
very organized. Fan club fan, and it’s a moving thing
membership is a serious K-pop deals strictly in arena to experience firsthand. After
matt er that det er mines venues and big-budget the very last song, when
access to tickets, fanmeets, productions, and these the only light comes from
and swag out of reach of enormous shows have been the flickering light sticks,
the hoi polloi. There is carefully crafted with the slowly, every single person
an official fan club name, fans in mind. in this huge space begins to
color, light stick, chant, sing lines from “Heaven.” It
and symbol for each group. “Whether it’s a second stage, echoes, sweet and endless,
Fans proudly display their moving platform, or crane to until it fills the entire dome.
accumulated badges and bring the performers closer to
straps and towels; they the audience, it seems like the “It still gives me goose bumps
bestow each group member performers and organizers to think about it,” Melody
with a nickname and cute are dedicated to making sure says.
animal; they make the most everyone has a good time,”
elaborate signs and take says Melody. Lilly Gray was a JET in
the most pictures. There’s a Toyama prefecture for 3 years. ヘルタースケルター (Helter Skelter) 風が強く吹いている (Feel the Wind)
Because of this, the energy is She currently lives in Fukuoka
pretty deep appreciation, or unreal, even before the idols Trailer Trailer
understanding, of fan power City in Kyushu and spends
come onstage. At the concert most of her time writing,
held by the idol groups: this I attended, everyone was on The first film I saw in theaters when I moved I don’t watch a lot of Japanese movies outside
year’s VIPs got Swarovski- staring into the ocean, and
their feet and screaming to the consuming as many different to Japan, rented twice, and watched on of Ghibli, but I had one of my advanced
studded bracelets as a thank- canned pre-show music. This Netflix countless more. Helter Skelter shows classes write about their favorite films and
you from Big Bang. kinds of omiyage as possible.
excitement is contagious, and how far some will go for success. The lead role why someone should watch them. One that
singing or waving your light References was made for the infamous, and one of my stuck out to me was “[[i]]Kaze ga Tsuyoku
Being an “official fan” isn’t all-time favorite Japanese personas, Sawajiri Fuiteiru[[i]]” (Feel the Wind), about Japanese
the only way to be a fan, but stick with the crowd amplifies (1) Kara Become the First Female
the fun. Of seeing Big Bang, Korean Artist to Hold Concert Erika. The breathtaking visuals (thanks to college students running Hakone Ekiden
everyone seems to be having Ninagawa Mika) wrap you in the glamour without ever having trained before. My
so much fun that you want to Jonathan Cosgrove, a new at the Tokyo Dome
K-pop fan, says: “I think (2) Big Bang Closes Japan Dome
of fame and fortune, throwing you down the student says it’s a movie about never giving
join. I gave in, and about $70 dark pit of self-destruction, eerily mirroring up and having true friendship. I will definitely
later un-ironically became overall I was immediately Tour, Breaks Ticket Sales
struck by the unspoken but Record Sawajiri’s actual career. watch this movie based on my student’s
a member of the “SHINee recommendation, and you should ask your
World” in Japan, which isn’t immediate bond everyone Patrick Finn
Melody Tsukahara students for theirs!
exactly something I want had... before I went I wouldn’t Head of Graphic Design and Layout
chiseled on my headstone, but have expected to have the Becca Simas
iTunes
it has been one of the happiest feeling that ‘yes I am so Sports Editor
concert-going experiences happy to be a part of this’ but
24 ARTS & CULTURE MARCH 2016 ARTS & CULTURE 25FACES IN
Claim to fame
Nigo began selling Bape
T-shirts and camo prints
in Harajuku back in 1993.
Since then, his brand grew
FASHION
in popularity. There are 19
stores in Japan alone. There
are international stores
located in Hong Kong, New
York, and Seoul, to name a
few.
Nigo of
Nigo has since been involved
in other fashion ventures.
His clothing adverts feature
prominent celebrities who
enjoy his brand, like Pharrell
A Bathing Ape
Williams, Snoop Dogg, and
Kanye West. Bape frequently
collaborates with popular
media, such as The Simpsons,
Star Wars, and Spongebob
SquarePants.
(BAPE)
The designs are extremely
popular and each
collaboration is different
while still maintaining the
consistency of the brand.
Official Website
KOSTADINA SACHINIS (KAGOSHIMA)
Kostadina Sachinis is a
Age Greek South African from
45 Johannesburg. A food and
animal lover with an avid
Occupation fashion, J-pop, and gaming
obsessions. Captivated with
Designer, DJ, record producer,
Japan and its pop culture
and entrepreneur.
scene from a very young age,
Label she joined the JET Program in
2015 and lives in Kagoshima.
BAPE She studied Journalism at the
University of Johannesburg
“A Bathing Ape,” or BAPE, is an urban clothing line created by and is a big fan of Japan’s
Nigo. It caters toward men’s, women’s, and children’s fashion. ViVi Magazine. She has a
Bape clothing is bold, edgy, and colourful. The striking designs keen interest to travel around
give basic T-shirts and hoodies a trendy feeling, without Japan and experience more of
looking sporty. Bape’s distinct logo and fun image sets it apart what it has to offer.
from other brands. Thus, Bape’s popularity among teenagers
striving to be fashionable isn’t surprising. The collaborative Wikicommons
pieces are well designed, and all pieces are unique, making
them a must-have for fans. If you want to be cool and get
noticed, Bape’s the brand for you!ROCK
So, you got your Johnny’s 1. Make Your Face Pop 4. Make it a Duet!
ticket in the mail. Or maybe
Some bands have their own Find a friend and get color-
EXILE’s in town, and you’re
temporary tattoos, which are coordinated. They’re green;
looking forward to pumping
ideal, or you can choose a you’re purple. Do each other’s
out your slick Running Man
pattern that expresses what hair and buy matching
in time with a crowd of
you love about your favorite tutus, matching bow ties,
thousands—but what do you
idols. These are usually suspenders, bandanas, socks,
wear? Take your cues from
OUT
applied to your cheek. stockings, or shoelaces at
the joyful faces around you
and prepare your ensemble the 375en shop. If your Twin
TIP: For a shining face that Day during high school spirit
based on these go-to concert really pops, invest in stars,
outfit items, chosen by fans week never came, now’s the
gems, glitter, and cell-phone time to be part of a picture-
like you. jewels from Daiso! perfect pair.
2. Rhythm and Hair-Doos TIP: Choose your twin
This isn’t just any outing; try carefully, or you might regret
hair as big as your love for the it.
WITH
band. Popular go-tos for those 5. Harmonize With the
of us with a longer mane are Whole House
high “Mickey Buns”, but high
pigtails and a little spray-in Use the band or artist’s
color are always popular. If distinct style or use replicable
you’re a last-minute person, looks from one of their albums,
save time, follicles, and effort and choose any aspect (color,
with a wig. Then, match it shape, motifs in the MV,
to your outfit, or favorite anything goes) and build
member’s signature look. your look around it. For the
Popcorn-era of ARASHI, the
STYLE
TIP: Debut your dream hair best outfits mimicked the old-
with your new, concert-going timey red and white stripes of
persona. a popcorn box and the fellas’
3. Be a Glam Fan vests. Red suspenders, red
bows, yellow tops, and white
Got a towel with their name, tights: cute enough to eat.
face, symbol, last tour, and
blood type emblazoned on TIP: Don’t go half-way—it’s
it? How about pins with hi- all or nothing!
definition photos of their
faces? Necklaces, rings, Lilly Gray was a JET in
LILLY GRAY (FUKUOKA) hairbands, bags, pants, socks Toyama prefecture for 3 years.
with the insignia or maybe She currently lives in Fukuoka
a commemorative burger City in Kyushu and spends
wrapper? Use whatever works most of her time writing,
best for you. A huge hoodie staring into the ocean, and
with ONE OK ROCK on the consuming as many different
back is now a statement piece, kinds of omiyage as possible.
with an elbow-deep pile of Lilly Gray
plastic wristbands collected
from their show.
TIP: Show your devotion
through your costume, and be
bold or go home!
MARCH 2016 ARTS & CULTURE 29REMEMBER THE
Chrissy and I have known actually in their own little Hmmm, well the audio was
each other since the decline bubble and didn’t interact as horridly tuned at the small
of Ayumi Hamasaki’s career, much with other fans, which venue! Guess those budget
PHALLIC
bonding over our love for is more common at shows venues don’t hire sound guys
Japanese music and all in the US. Of course, that’s anywhere.
things tragic. When she was just a microcosm of Japanese
Actually, now that I think of
LIGHT STICKS
finally able to come to Japan culture in general.
for the first time this winter, it, so many things were totally
it was the perfect opportunity
My favorite was
to expose her to the concert
An Interview
culture here.
probably the low-
We ended up going to
PATRICK FINN (TOYAMA) three very different shows
during her stay: a small
live featuring せのしすた
ぁ (Seno Sister), アカシック budget live we went
to in the middle of
(Akasick), and ベッド・イン
(Bed In), Tomoko Kawase‘s
(better known as the brilliant
nowhere. I mean,
green, Tommy heavenly6, and
Tommy february6) TOMMY
★ DARK CHRISTMAS ★
DEADLY NIGHT 2015, and
Ayumi Hamasaki’s annual are you ever going
to forget the lead act
countdown live.
What was the biggest
sucking your finger?
difference from shows in
America?
The biggest difference was
definitely the audience. At Did you feel like the fans different. Even how patient
every show, it felt like the were more... social at the the audience was before the
audience was programmed smaller venue though? show.
how to react at any given Like, they seemed to know
moment, whether it was the each other and weren’t Ah, everyone waiting
hand gestures, the audience as cold to us. Oddly, outside to go in and have
participation choreography, even though we were out their ticket number called,
the synchronized waving of of place more so there right?
fans and light sticks, or which in terms of not being
parts you were expected to Japanese, I felt more Yeah. Then again, it’s a
this seno sing along to. accepted somehow. cultural thing.
sister knew
how to put on Everyone seemed as if they Yeah because they knew we It’s nice that people are
a show! were dedicated fans, even if had to know of the groups to respectful at the shows
they were just playing the even be there. though. Even when things
part. However, I know from got a little heated during
movies and anime that people True. that opening idol group’s
tend to research artists before show, fans still apologized
attending a show. There was no way we for running into me.
stumbled into that show!
On the other hand, despite Yeah, that is so true. Once
people being seemingly Anything you found the people started pushing and
united in their fandom same between American rushing the stage I thought
at every show, they were and Japanese shows? it was starting to feel like a
MARCH 2016 ARTS & CULTURE 31real rock gig… until the fans realize how important she is privacy issues, and you never I would have asked for photos
were overtly apologetic. Then to kawaii and otaku culture want to disturb other people. if I saw others doing it, but
it felt bizarre again. outside of Japan. She’s In the US, there are basically sadly that wasn’t the case.
essentially a spokesperson category is: no rules as far as most fans Again it’s a cultural thing.
Anything that surprised and uniter for us. ayu realness are concerned. If you don’t
you across the three want your picture taken, you In the end, what was your
venues? That makes sense. Even don’t dress up. favorite show and why?
when I went to Japan
I was slightly surprised how Nite years ago in Chicago, Well, that one woman did Even though I thoroughly
diverse Ayu’s fans were, people weren’t thrown off come up to you pretty enjoyed each show for their
though I should have expected by the Japanese acts and much right after we got unique aspects, if I had to
that having seen how diverse their behavior. outside the Yoyogi venue choose just one I’d say Ayu.
Cher and Madonna shows and called you a “goddess” That’s a show I would have
are. I think Ayu is a lot more I think they did a great or something, right? made the trip solely to see.
like them than pop stars that job of giving an honest
came out the same time as representation of her and I found it funny that, that was I’m surprised, and at the
her. J-pop shows in general. the first word that popped same time not.
Even Yasutaka Nakata and into her head!
Tommy exceeded expectations Sebastian Masuda showed She’s literally my favorite pop
since she was so much weirder up to support her, which I Personally, it was nice that star, so you could say it was
than I had even imagined! appreciated because they are people ask for photos because the opportunity of a lifetime.
Her characters are definitely equally as important to her that gives you the chance as I definitely had more of an
real parts of her personality. appeal. It was like having the a cosplayer to give your best emotional connection to the
They’re not that exaggerated! whole trifecta there. pose, instead of a candid songs there than any of the
shot where your overall look other shows. Plus Ayu is my
And even though you I read in the paper that may be a bit off. On the other lifestyle idol.
described Bed In to me, I she was worried that her hand, I knew some people
wasn’t expecting them to be performance might get lost in wouldn’t ask for a photo I’ve seen all her live DVDs
so raunchy! Especially after translation, either culturally because we were speaking since the early 00s, so it was
seeing an 80s Hi-NRG idol or linguistically, but was English. You kind of have surreal finally being there.
group a few sets before. presently surprised how well to ask people if they want a It was kind of a metaphoric
the audience reacted and photo, which I don’t normally microcosm of the trip: never
Bed In ended up being adapted. She seemed almost have to do in the US. If I see give up on your dreams no
amazing! The one could overwhelmed about how a phone or camera pointed matter how long they might
seriously sing and the enthusiastic we all were to definitely at me, I quickly try to strike take.
other rocked that guitar! see her, but it was a unique a normal my best pose! However, once
My favorite was probably
Yeah! I wasn’t expecting them opportunity and we were just light stick. the ice was broken, people
the low-budget live we
to be such seasoned musical glad a big J-pop artist finally yep. yep... seemed grateful for the
went to in the middle of
vets. They were obviously took the time to perform for picture, which was nice. They
nowhere. I mean, are you
doing it for the love of music. us. don’t treat you like a photo
ever going to forget the
The novelty was secondary, prop and then walking away
H ow about yo u r lead act sucking your
but still equally important. without a “Thank you.”
experience before and finger?
How about when you saw after the shows here? You Did you notice no one
No, I think not! That show was
Kyrary in LA? Do you cosplayed for Ayu and had was taking photos at
such a huge highlight of the
feel she adapted to the some interaction with the Tommy show even
trip because it was a unique
audience? fans afterwards. though more than half the
experience and definitely one
audience was dressed in
That was a bit strange incredibly few foreign visitors
Well, like you know, I’m their best Christmas goth
because, again, the bubble would have experienced.
fairly knowledgeable about attire?
Japanese and kawaii culture, culture.
That small live was nuts!
but the great thing was that Yeah, that was a bummer.
As a cosplayer I’m used to The girl hanging from the
basically everyone else at the Especially since I knew
people constantly asking for ceiling, panty flashing,
show was [aware], too. I don’t Tommy’s show would be full
my picture, but, in Japan, the and questionable light
think people within Japan of cosplayers when compared
rules are different. There are sticks. I’ve been to a lot
to others.
32 ARTS & CULTURE MARCH 2016 ARTS & CULTURE 33of shows, but nothing like
that.
That shady dive bar live is
probably my most told story
since I got back though. It’s
almost not believable.
Least favorite show and
why?
I wouldn’t say I particularly
disliked any of them, but I
liked Tommy’s the least only
because the setlist was chosen
based on the show’s theme:
Dark Christmas. We didn’t
get many Tommy february6
songs and they were limited
to her more melancholy ones.
Any words of advice for
those visiting Japan that
are interested in the
music scene?
Definitely get a person that
lives there to buy tickets! The
process can be a headache,
even for people that do it all
the time, but it’s damn-near
impossible otherwise.
Secondly, understand that
most seats and entry are
determined by a lottery, so
being the first person to bid
does not guarantee a good
spot.
Also, forums! People living
here are willing to help.
Make those connections!
Chrissy is a crap Cher
impersonator that loves
makeup and songs about
wigs. Follow her sad life on
Instagram, Twitter, and blog,
TeamTragicTalks Jpop, if
you’re up for a good laugh.
Patrick Finn
34 ARTS & CULTURE MARCH 2016 ARTS & CULTURE 35NAOSHIMA,
Nearly 3000 islands dot the Naoshima is where it all massive whirlpool that is
Seto Inland Sea, the water began. With a population of Tokyo, Naoshima’s art scene
channel separating Honshu, roughly 3000 people and a is thoroughly bound to the
Shikoku, and Kyushu. fistful of cats, taking a boat local culture and community.
Historically a bustling to this idyllic island is like Take the Art House Project,
TESHIMA,
transport route, the major travelling to Japan’s past. in which abandoned
sources of industry on the Far away from the hyper- traditional Japanese homes
islands nowadays include development of Japan’s are transformed into art
fishing and industrial metropolises, sleepy fishing pieces without altering
manufacturing. Like much villages, beautiful sandy the structure of the house.
of rural Japan, the area is beaches, 400 year-old wooden They’re scattered around the
struggling with shrinking houses and narrow alleyways port, and to access them all
AND THE
population rates and under protruding tiled eaves you traverse the town’s quiet
economies. But since 1992, characterize the island. The telephone wire-lined streets,
visionary plans to revitalize climate is mild and there’s interacting with the local
the island of Naoshima, not much to block the light, community.
which have spread outward which causes the scenery
to neighboring islands, to metamorphose over the Teshima has a different
have transformed them into course of a day. feeling to it. With a larger
JOY
something that may appear area but smaller population,
utterly incongruous: a hotbed Place is perhaps the most the island has space for
of cutting-edge contemporary important element in all terraced rice fields, natural-
art. the works of art found growth forests, and empty
on Naoshima. Partially stretches of roads. The island
I recently travelled to two of in response to the drain feels beyond the boundaries
the major art destinations, of contemporary culture of human civilization, let
OF LIVING
the islands of Naoshima in Japan towards the
and Teshima.
JOYCE WAN (HOKKAIDO)
36 ARTS & CULTURE MARCH 2016 ARTS & CULTURE 37alone any contemporary art museum structures so blossoms. On Teshima, in to enter and transform the designed most of Naoshima’s water spring out of tiny
scene, and the installations closely to place. Nature is of a small isolated house that space. Come after hours for museum buildings. Most fountains in the Teshima
located there take advantage central importance, making feels like it might be located the museum’s night program, notably, the Chichu Art Art Gallery, continuously
of this. The long journey is the scenic Seto Inland Sea on the edge of the world, you and watch as the colour of the Museum relies entirely on transforming the landscape
part of the experience. region the perfect habitat can record your heartbeats sky changes during sunset. the use of natural lighting of the floor. All these creations
for a uniquely Japanese art at Les Archives du Cœur. Sitting in complete silence to illuminate its artworks, invoke wabi-sabi in a way
The installations on experience, in which the Walking into the pitch-black for 45 minutes, you’re able to including a collection of Monet that is intriguingly modern.
Naoshima and Teshima are boundaries between nature Heart Room, nothing can be appreciate each stage of the paintings in an underground
made by artists from around and manmade culture seen until the sound of your slow fading away to black; chamber. In some works Yūgen
the world, and the sleek disappear. With this in pulsing heart booms through after it’s all over, there is only light itself is the art, like
concrete and steel museum This concept typically
mind, let’s take a look at the speakers, causing a the void left. the glowing circles cast by translates to “dim”, “dark”, or
buildings seem nondescript how Naoshima and Teshima single light bulb in the centre the holes in the Teshima Art
enough that they could exist Wabi-sabi “mysterious”. In opposition to
ref lect three fundamental of the room to flash on and off Gallery structure. explicitly given meanings, it
anywhere. Despite this, it’s concepts in Japanese with the rhythm of the beats. Closely related to mono alludes with subtle grace to
hard not to see the tangible aesthetics. Life and death strike you as Twin tatami-mat rooms stand
no aware are wabi, simple the depth of the world we live
presence of core Japanese being separated by a razor’s in Gokaisho, one filled with
and austere beauty, and in (3). As a foreigner, I feel
aesthetics everywhere you Mono no Aware edge, and both all the more sculptures of fallen camellia,
sabi, the beauty of rustic that I collide with profound
look. These traditional profound for their proximity. the other appearing solemnly
Mono no aware translates to patina. Over time, these two feelings of yūgen every
artistic philosophies form empty but hiding a secret
the “pathos of things”, and ideals have converged into day as I sit in the office,
the foundations for not only Feelings of mono no aware artwork. Yoshihiro Suda’s
refers to an understanding one concept, representing surrounded by proceedings of
Japanese art and design, but are brought about by Weeds are wooden sculptures
of the impermanence of all the beauty of that which is which I cannot make heads
also culture and life at every encounters with nature, so realistic that it looks as
things (1). This inevitable imperfect, impermanent, and nor tails. That’s a
level. It’s the expression which the museums curate if real sprouts are growing
passing of things heightens incomplete (2). Shadows and joke, but
of these ancient Japanese in innovative ways. James through the cracks in the
their beauty in the emptiness are key elements
aesthetics that ties the stark Turrell’s Open Sky, in the Benesse House Museum’s
present moment. A simple of the austerity in the wabi-
Chichu Art Museum, is a room walls. Droplets of
example of this is Japan’s sabi aesthetic, and they are
with a large square opening
fascination with cherry also key in the work of Tadao
in the ceiling, allowing all of
Ando, the self-taught
nature’s light, sounds, and
architect who
changes of weather
38 ARTS & CULTURE MARCH 2016 ARTS & CULTURE 39frankly it doesn’t feel that about the works, leaving In Minamidera, viewers sit and joy in a celebration of the thread of art and somehow over the pumpkin. Their
different from the experience interpretation up to the in complete darkness, both existence. The Teshima Art discovered a path that would euphoric shouts could still be
of just wandering unguided viewer. Pushing open a heavy literally and figuratively, Museum’s ticket states that allow me to live”. Pictures heard as I kept walking up
around the art islands, often glass door in the Benesse unaware of what they’ll see it evokes the “joy of living”. of the pumpkin sculpture the hill.
coming across art by complete House Museum leads you until they see it. Much of what is written about never impressed me, but
surprise. to The Secret of the Sky, the art islands expresses the upon seeing the real thing in The Setouchi Triennial, an
two marble pebble-shaped Japanese aesthetics embody same sentiment. all its curvy and dotty glory, art festival that takes place
A perfect example is Seen/ sculptures surrounded by sorrow and suffering, but I suddenly felt inexplicably on Naoshima, Teshima, and
Unseen Known/Unknown, an high walls—the focus of the it’s more complicated than At the end of a pier in elated and I wanted to other surrounding islands, is
installation of two large shiny piece is actually the empty that. A deep awareness of Naoshima sits the famous dance around it. After I had ongoing until April 17th.
spheres in a room mostly space above the sculptures. the mystery and transience yellow pumpkin by Yayoi walked away towards the
hidden from view under a hill, To give away too many of all things creates the Kusama, an artist who’s been Sources
museum, I heard shouts from
that I stumbled upon while details about some of the conditions necessary for full tortured by hallucinations behind me. A group of people (1) Stanford Encyclopedia of
searching for something more mysterious artworks appreciation of the beauty since she was a child. Her was jumping on the dock, Philosophy
else. In general there is very would spoil their poignancy. of the present moment. It quote on the Benesse House screaming in absolute delight (2) Wikipedia
little information presented seamlessly unites sorrow pamphlet reads, “I followed (3) Stanford Encyclopedia of
Philosophy
Joyce Wan
40 ARTS & CULTURE MARCH 2016 ARTS & CULTURE 41LIFESTYLE
Lifestyle
Yuki-Matsuri 44
Four Days in Korea 50
Stuff to Get Excited About 54
Behind the Counter 60
Running for Sweets 64
FOOD EDITORS Homemade Umeshu 66
connect.food@ajet.net
Alexandra Brueckner
Mira Richard-Fioramore
TRAVEL EDITORS
connect.travel@ajet.net
Leah Gray
The weather has gotten nicer, so I’ve been out
and about more!
Pia Peterson
This month it’s all about art, coffee, dogs and
beer….you know, the essentials.
Rajeev Rahela
42 MARCH 2016 43YUKI MA TSU RI ILLAURA ROSSITER (SHIZUOKA)
AM UST I
M TS R
FOUR DAYS IN KOREA AKA: How to Spend Too Much Money in Seoul MIRIAM MATTHEWS (YAMAGATA)
I escaped to Seoul exactly It’s here that I learned that Holding back is not an option refreshing and surprising to buying things you don’t need, confectionary/food court with
when I needed to. After shopping is cheap and easy, in Seoul. I found this out see standards held so high but definitely want, in the everything from American
twenty-three years under too easy. Tiny shops—stalls, around midnight as I watched across the board. West Galleria. There is also chili fries to Korean
the Californian sun, my first really—were practically wasted office workers an East Galleria, but it’s the delicacies. As long as you
Tohoku winter was rough. stacked on top of each other. casually throwing up in the I have to say, despite the kind of place where you feel can resist buying the ¥5000
Regardless of how little The rows of stores sold the street next to a lingerie shop, incredible café Viennese, like you’re too broke to step SPAM+Wine gift boxes, then
snow there is this year, three same stylish clothing at the only to straighten up and gourmet waffles, and pastries foot in the door, so let’s just anything there is good! And
months of a cold grey sky and same prices for what seemed continue on with their night galore, my favorite “café” focus on West, shall we? if there’s anything that will
the onset of culture fatigue like miles on end. You could of debauchery at the next bar. could hardly be considered assuage your buyer’s guilt,
was giving me some serious get lost in the racks of pink Maybe not all that different a café at all. Bau House Now, I love Japanese makeup it’s some piping hot cheese
cabin fever. Luckily for me, sweaters and knockoff from the after-hours of some is two subway stops from and skin care, and Korean fries.
I had a buddy in Seoul and SUPREME hats. Music Japanese salarymen, but a Hongdae and hidden under products are even better. But
Peach airlines had a sale. blasted as the stores vied for hell of a lot less composed an inconspicuous office I wanted my Urban Decay, Whether you want to learn
the attention of the hoards of and a lot more vulgar. It was building. And it’s here that YSL, and Aesop favorites, about the past or look
I had no goals for this trip. I university students stopping the best start to the next four you’ll find heaven in the form and they are so hard to come toward the future, Korea
could’ve spent my time in the here and there to look at a days I could’ve asked for. of puppy love. Buy yourself a by in Japan! The cosmetic has something to offer.
Korean Folk Village, around beanie or to buy some street drink and a pack of treats and section was heaven for my It’s a country that, having
Gyeongbokgung Palace or the food. You had to fight through Café culture in Korea is the pups at this dog café will skin and hell for my bank few natural resources, has
DMZ learning about Korea’s crowds to take a step in any definitely a thing and I highly go crazy for you. If you’ve ever account. After riding the chosen to look only forward.
rich and often tragic history. direction, while steering very recommend exploring any needed a fix for a bad day or a escalator a few floors I found They’ve advanced so quickly
But frankly, I wasn’t in the clear of overflowing trash place that looks cool. Trust bit of homesickness, dogs are my other guilty pleasure— and have staked a powerful
mood. I wanted to drink, eat, cans and, in many cases, me, there is no lack of good definitely the best cure. They stupidly expensive lingerie. claim on the international
shop, and get lost in Seoul’s trash piles. food or coffee. My time spent have different sections for big Though, truth be told, I feel platform. Watching the ups
labyrinthine streets. in the cafés is a blur. I enjoy and little dogs, where you can zero guilt about liking these and downs of a country still
Finding good food in Seoul is pastries and coffee, but I’m chill with both puppies and things. There’s no shame in growing and moving forward
South Koreans dress too not a problem. Hongdae hosts no expert. Despite this, I retirees so you’re bound to loving what you love. is an incredible sight. Despite
damn good for international an excess of restaurants and think it’s pretty safe to say find a new best friend. this, its history can be found
flights. I was shocked and food stands, each with their that the café competition is Now, the Calvin Klein everywhere. It’s in the
appalled at how bad I looked own twist on traditional food strong in Seoul. Without If you’ve got a love for shopping, section wasn’t too bad, food, the statues scattered
next to 85% of the passengers. or offering trendy churros and doing any research on “the Seoul is the place for you. my wallet didn’t hate me around, and the occasional
If there’s any country that waffles. Smelly street stalls best coffee shops in Seoul,” Clothes, makeup and beauty then. But, man, was the honbak on the subway.
emphasizes appearance offer food that’s cheaper, every place I went to had products, tech—whatever L’Agent Provocateur section Wandering around the city
and style above all else, it’s greasier, and better than seemingly expert bakers and you want, you can find in the Dangerous with a capital D. at midnight you’ll find street
Korea. My buddy picked what you could get at any baristas. Regardless of how subway, down a shady alley, In fact, it’s probably too soon vendors, couples, and young
me up at Incheon and we Michelin-starred restaurant. grand or inconspicuous the or on the paved-with-gold for me to admit what I bought performers trying to make
headed straight to Hongdae, Here we hunted down the shop was, the coffee and food streets of Apgujeong Rodeo. and how much I spent there. their big break. It’s a city that
a trendy university area with grittiest KBBQ we could find was consistently delicious The latter of which is a great Regardless of wherever your never stops to take a breath,
a plethora of bars, cafés, and and ordered beer, soju and everywhere I went. It was way to spend too much money guilty pleasures lie, be sure to and it’s one that I can already
cheap clothing shops. about six mystery items from head to the basement where hear calling me back.
the menu. you’ll find Gourmet 494, an
incredibly cool grocery store/ Hannah Killoh
52 LIFESTYLE MARCH 2016 LIFESTYLE 53You can also read
