AND OTHER TREASURES FROM THE PORTUGUESE SEA DELICIOUS - Apr/May/Jun 2021 The English Language Food & Culture Magazine For Portugal Lovers Everywhere
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Apr/May/Jun 2021
The English Language Food & Culture
Magazine For Portugal
Lovers Everywhere
A ND OTHER
DELICIOUS
T REASURES FROM THE P ORTUGUESE S EA
DELIGHTS
T ABLE OF C ONTENTS
I N E VERY I SSUE
F EATURES
10 Wine Vines
Black Sheep Lisboa/
Food For Thought
Rodrigo Sarrat-Cave
7 RealPortugueseWine.com
Still Capture the Not From Around Here
Minutes I’m In
12
PIE Lagos
Portugal’s
Gastronomic Legacy
22 15 Let’s Talk
PracticePortuguese.com
John Barkley
The Culinary Institute
of America
18 My Town
Rui Araújo
Food & Wine Experiences
Portugal:
A Seafood Nation
27
19 Portuguese Makers
Lazy Flavors Paulo Tuna The Bladesmith
The Club Med
Lifestyle 33 47 Perspective
Anita Oliver & Richard Nash
Relish Portugal No Particular Place To Go
Product Spotlight 34 14 Guest Artist
Bay Leaves Bordalo II
In Season || Nêspera
37
Plastic Palanca Negra, Bordalo II,
Jake Cleaver
2019, Alfragide, Portugal
The Portugal News
Hidden In Plain Sight 39
Secret City Trails
>>> Turn to pages 44-46 for Contributors/Recipe List/What’s Playing in Your Kitchen
F ROM M Y C OZINHA
Spring has sprung in Portugal and
The food and culture
we’re seeing warm, sunny days and magazine for
later and later sunsets. It’s time for city, English-speaking Portugal
country, and seashore strolls. Farmer lovers everywhere!
market produce is transforming from
winter roots to spring fruits. Seafood
stalls are overflowing with a vast Relish Portugal is published four
variety of delicious options. Meals are times a year plus two special
turning the corner from hearty winter editions.
fare to lighter dishes, enjoyed al fresco.
What’s not to love? All rights reserved. No part of this
publication may be reproduced,
And that’s what we’re delighted to bring you in this issue distributed, or transmitted in any
of Relish Portugal. As I scrolled through the pages, I form, or by any means, including
noticed a common thread. Portugal’s hallmark—fresh, electronically, without the
abundant, high-quality ingredients, prepared simply—is prior written permission
recognized the world over. It’s something that John of Relish Portugal.
Barkley from The Culinary Institute of America talks about
in this issue’s interview piece on page 22. Big-time ©2021 Relish Portugal
Portuguese foodies and popular tour operator, Lazy
Flavors, echo it in our feature story, page 27. Even expats Permission and info requests:
producing a decidedly British favorite, PIE Lagos (page evanne@relishportugal.com
12), highly respect Portugal’s rich bounty.
Advertising/PR and distribution:
Looking to freshen up your daily meal-prep routine with a evanne@relishportugal.com
little cozinha bling? We have a famous bladesmith at your
service. And guess what? He may very well be the best Subscriptions: relishportugal.com
knife maker in the world. If experiences are your thing,
you must visit Braga, European Best Destination 2021, https://relishportugal.com
for its beauty, history, and cuisine. More interested in
facebook.com/RelishPortugalMag
seeing the world from an artist’s point of view?
Discovering Big Trash Animals in unexpected places will @relish_portugal
definitely get you thinking.
Many readers have told me they really dig the groove of
our contributor-curated playlists. Me, too. And every time
I have the pleasure of creating a mix, I think it’s my
favorite. This time is no exception. We start the set with a
funky fav, something we could all use, a Soul Vaccination.
We end it with a forward-facing tune that delivers hope
and happiness, Brand New Day.
That’s what I’m hoping for all of us. A dash of inspiration,
a measure of good cheer, and a sprinkle of joy. It’s
springtime and everything is coming up rosas e arco-íris.
Yeah, this happened!!
Grab your sunnies and get out there!
We are honored and humbled.
XOXO
Cocktail Hour Poncha:
You can thank Infante D. Henrique for
Madeira’s traditional libation, poncha. After
Madeira’s
all, on his order in 1425, sugar cane (from
Sicily) was introduced to the newly colonized
island. The cane was squeezed and it is
Potent Punch
cane syrup that Madeiran rum, called “rhum
agricole” is made from, not to be confused
with the molasses-based “rhum industriel”.
Rhum agricole is matured in Madeira-fortified
wine casks, giving it a depth of flavor.
While far fewer than the 50 in its heyday, five
rum distilleries on the beautiful island are in
operation today. Traditionally combined with
Photo: Paulo Camacho,
lemon, oranges, and honey—though new
varieties such as passionfuit poncha are
emerging—the origins of poncha are slightly
Funchal Daily
unclear. Just outside of Funchal proper,
Camara do Lobos is ground zero for the gold
standard “poncha à pescador’ (fisherman’s
poncha). But its origins, or at least
inspiration, may have been an Indian drink
called pãnch/panch. It’s also thought that Madeira Exquisite Food On Foot Tours
poncha is the forerunner of the well-loved offers a full range of exclusively focused
Brazilian cocktail, caipirinha. culinary experiences. Guided by
lifelong Madeirenses that are
Best served with peanuts and/or lupines, this passionate about sharing interactive
strong, fruity punch can easily be replicated culinary adventures in paradise, you’ll
at home. Islanders use a type of muddler discover their 5-star TripAdvisor rating
called a mechelote, known to some as is well deserved.
simply a poncha stick. If you can’t find one
you can use a long wooden spoon. Learn more at madeirafoodonfoot.com
Traditional Poncha
Rather than hard and fast amounts, poncha is typically made by ratio: 1 measure of
Madeira (or sugar cane) rum to one measure of juice. For rough measures, you might
juice six small lemons and four nice sized oranges, and match the amount of liquid with
rum to make two ponchas. Maderians typically add just a little bit more lemon than orange
but that varies according to taste.
Squeeze the citrus into a cup and note how much you have. Add to a large, wide mouth
jar or pitcher. Add an equal measure of rum. Add local honey to taste. To give you an idea,
you’ll want somewhere around 2 tablespoons of honey for each cup of juice. Whisk the
honey, juice, and rum using your poncha stick.
4 | R ELISHPORTUGAL .com | APR /M AY /J UN 2021
Cataplana Kick
Gorgeous cookware and iconic Algarvian dish, cataplana is a feast for the senses. Shiny
hammered copper “clamshell” halves, fresh seafood, meat, or veg and aromatics, it’s a show
piece at every table.
Celebrating Portugal’s bounty, Relish Portugal partnered with amazing artist Wendy Beugels to
create the sensational “Happy Watercolor” Cataplana ‘Zine: All About Portugal’s Cataplana.
Perfect for Portugal lovers everywhere, this lovingly hand-illustrated piece of kitchen art and
storytelling comes complete with an illustrated recipe. Give it as a gift or get a copy for yourself.
Available for purchase, a reasonable $1.89, and instant download from your Relish Portugal pals.
The Expat Files:
A New Life in The Algarve
What makes a person decide to move
abroad to start a new life? And why do so
many people choose the Algarve in Portugal
as their dream destination?
Author and artist Alyson Sheldrake, a long-
term resident of the Algarve, offers readers
a flash of insight with 22 curated life stories,
a wide range of different people that have
chosen the Algarve as their home.
Quiosque Corner
Curious green space lovers ready for a Some made the move in the early 1970s,
quiosque café break will be rewarded by before tourism was even an idea. Some, on
exploring Jardim Botto Machado. Located a whim, packed up everything they owned
in the shadow of Lisbon’s National to follow their dreams of a new life in the
Pantheon and sun. They share funny moments, heartfelt
high on a hill journeys, and real-life modern adventures in
overlooking the this new and fascinating anthology.
Rio Tejo, at the
far tip of the Read their stories and be inspired.
jardim sits the Includes a foreword
charming Clara written by the British
Clara, a small Ambassador to Portugal.
quiosque with
ample 'A New Life in the Algarve,
esplanade Portugal – An Anthology
seating, Of Life Stories’ is now
wonderful available for sale
refreshments, worldwide on Amazon.
and top notch wi-fi. Take a coffee after The third book in her
strolling the famous Feira da Ladra (the ‘Algarve Dream’ series,
Thieves Market) or pop over for some Alyson invites you to
relaxed people watching. This hidden share the Algarve dream
Alfama gem is well worth seeking out. that’s captured the hearts of adventurers,
including her, around the globe.
APR /M AY /J UN 2021 | RELISHPORTUGAL .com | 5
DON’T MISS A SINGLE
ISSUE OF
https://RelishPortugal.com
F OOD FOR T HOUGHT
Rodrigo Sarrat-Cave ||
Table For One S TILL C APTURE T HE M INUTES I’ M I N ,
F INE A RT P HOTOGRAPHER ,
P ORTUGAL L OVER , S EASONAL E XPAT
Their story is not unique. Anna and Benny met in mid-life. They had a
lot in common: both Danish immigrants, both had children from
previous partners, both loved cooking. After blending their families,
Anna and Benny decided to fulfill their dream of quitting their city jobs
and opening a restaurant. When an old home on a large piece of land
outside Puslinch, Ontario, became available, they took the plunge and
opened what would eventually become The Danish Place, for that was
what everybody called it, even though that was not its original official
name. They prepared home-style Danish food, hosted weddings,
anniversaries, first dates, and the
occasional funeral. The family worked
long hours to make the restaurant a
local success. Then the pandemic hit. flawless ballet of supportive confidence we would
happily prepare a Christmas feast of roasted
You probably already guessed that turkey with all the trimmings for the family, without
Anna and Benny’s The Danish Place an ounce of stress or anxiety. Alice approached
has served its last meal. After twenty cooking in a relaxed, methodical manner. She
years of service to the tiny Puslinch respected the process and understood that time
community, they were added to the list and effort produced pleasure. I do not recall ever
of over 10,000 restaurants that have seeing her
shut down in Canada, just six short flustered or
months after Covid-19 hit the scene. anxious while
That number has only ballooned as the cooking. If she
anticipated second wave of infections encountered an
arrived. But numbers are just that: unforeseen
numbers. Numbers change in tone, circumstance, she
flavor, and significance when we look at would pivot,
the names, the faces, and the personal recalibrate, and
stories behind the statistics. One of carry on—without
those numbers belongs to my youngest missing a beat. We
daughter, Alice. had great fun in the
kitchen.
Alice entered my life when she was just
ten years old—after my partner and I So I was not
blended our families. We bonded surprised when
almost immediately. Time would teach she pivoted her
us that we both enjoyed art, music, and academic career
cooking. From an early age, Alice and entered
approached cooking with curiosity and culinary college.
pleasure. Our time together in the After completing
kitchen evolved: if at first I was an her training, Alice
influence, later I became a collaborator. boarded the Rocky Mountaineer Luxury Train and
We would enter the kitchen mid- began cooking for wealthy tourists traveling on
morning, put some music on, and in a sightseeing tours from Vancouver to Banff. If you
APR /M AY /J UN 2021 | RELISHPORTUGAL .com | 7
can prepare gourmet food on a moving train, I Lisbon, Portugal. I held my tongue, but I
imagine you can cook pretty much thought she was nuts. If that sounds like a
anywhere. With that short summer experience premature and unfair assessment of her
behind her, she earned her stripes at Culinary life-changing decision, let me assure you
Capers—a well-established Vancouver catering that it came from a place of concern. I
company. Alice moved on from there to cook at grew up in a family of restaurant owners,
Chambar—the best restaurant in so I have witnessed the
Vancouver at that time. After a few hardship, the strain,
years of intense study, training, and the endless
and work, it was time to take a pressure that often
break. Alice went out to see the comes from operating
world. She landed in Australia. that type of business.
I don't think Alice deliberately went My first visit to the
on a journey of self-discovery, but Food Temple reinforced
after spending almost four years all my fears: the place
down under, the experience was tiny—40% of the
changed her. Unwilling to accept space was taken up
the male-centric, competitive, and by the open kitchen.
somewhat toxic Australian It was nearly
restaurant culture—she decided to impossible to find:
take a break from cooking. She located on the fringes
segued to working as a transient of a residential
farm worker—which allowed her to courtyard accessible
see the country. She traveled, only through a
couch surfed, worked in a variety labyrinth of mostly
of different fields (pun intended), unmarked narrow
and used that time to reshape her relationship alleys where drug dealers were happy to
with food, cooking, and the restaurant industry. service your needs. The only signage that
she was allowed to have was the size of a
Alice came to the realization that the only way dinner plate, and could only be displayed
she would return to professional cooking would while the place was open. Vegan food?
be if she developed a space where she could You know you are in Portugal, right? The
create a system that felt land of fish and pork. Even though I
right to her. She wanted applauded her vision, her passion, and
food to be a way of her effort, my thought was: she ain't
connecting good people gonna make it.
and impacting their lives,
both from the customer
and staff sides of the
equation. To accomplish
that, she would have to
open her own restaurant.
It would not happen in
Australia. She was
advised by a tarot card
reader to head to Portugal.
As crazy as that may sound, a few months later
Alice opened The Food Temple—a modern
vegan tapas restaurant in the yet-to-be-
gentrified neighborhood of historic Mouraria in
8 | R ELISHPORTUGAL .com | APR /M AY /J UN 2021
She proved me wrong. She proved me wrong in spades. Alice caught the early wave of the
global vegan movement. Being one, if not the only, vegan restaurant in Lisbon meant that if you
Googled "vegan restaurant" the Food Temple would be the top listing. The food was great, the
reviews were excellent, so very soon the word got out. She expanded her service outdoors,
where people sat on cushions on the steps of the courtyard and dined on custom-made wooden
platforms. The neighborhood gentrified. The drug dealers left. Other restaurants and Fado joints
opened up around her. She hosted live music performances and film festivals on the steps of the
courtyard and, before she could exhale, the Temple was one of the top ten restaurants in Lisbon.
In less than three years it was hard to get a reservation to her dream.
Alice deserves credit for navigating the challenges
of a new language, complex local regulations, and
cultural differences as she established the
restaurant. But more importantly, she deserves
credit for staying true to her core values as she
grew the business. Her rather hippie beliefs in love,
peace, and community replaced the competitive, aggressive, and
toxic atmosphere commonly associated
with the industry. She treated her staff
and customers with kindness and
respect. She became a local resource
—a vegan guru, of sorts. She taught
vegan cooking workshops, and
selflessly assisted competitors, so they could include plant-based
options on their menus. All of this was reflected in the warm
ambience of the Temple; it was a place that felt good.
Covid hit hard. It hit like a hurricane, one that would wash Alice out
to sea. As you probably already guessed, she is no longer tethered
to the Temple. So, that's the story behind one number. I am
confident that Alice will once again pivot, recalibrate, and create a
new dream. She is a good person, with a strong moral compass, and is not afraid of a hard day's
work.
She eventually found someone willing to take over the operation of The Food Temple. It speaks
to the dedication of the strong team that made the restaurant such a popular spot. The Temple is
now offering delivery and takeaway, which makes me think that there is a need for us to support
the restaurant industry by embracing the takeaway option until it is safe to return to indoor dining.
We have collectively adopted the idea of Meatless Mondays and Taco Tuesdays, why not
Takeaway Thursdays? I now regularly order food from the old couple that toil daily in their tiny
sushi joint in my 'hood because they remind me of my parents: two people with a dream trying to
make an honest living. I am hopeful that if together we make an effort to support our local
eateries then—when the Covid days are behind us—they will be there for us to enjoy in person.
Rodrigo is the blogger behind Still Capture The Minutes I'm In, a fine arts
photographer represented by the contemporary Canadian fine art gallery,
Van Dop Gallery, and spends his winters in lovely Lagos, Portugal.
Alice shares her wisdom, knowledge, and insight with seekers across the
globe through her latest venture, Earth Soul Truth.
APR /M AY /J UN 2021 | RELISHPORTUGAL .com | 9
W INE V INES Spring Blooms =
Floral Flavors
B LACK S HEEP L ISBOA W INE AND S PIRIT B AR + their online shop R EAL P ORTUGUESE W INE
bring you wines that are alive with flavor, a window into true terroir, and the
bottled essence of a winemaker’s philosophy
The rain has let up and the sun has come back and all the
flora is blooming. This makes us excited to shift from cozy
wines to ones that match our spring-fueled optimism.
A grape that until recently has not been given particularly aromatic grape variety, with citrus,
a lot of time in the spotlight as a dry wine, is flowery, grapey flavors as well as lychee,
Moscatel (Muscat). Many varieties of lemon, raisin, and pear. What more can you
Moscatel can be found throughout Portugal, hope for from a springtime sipper?
and have traditionally been used to make a
sweet dessert wine. Because it ripens to high Four of our current favorite wines made from
sugar levels along with powerful aromatics, it Moscatel come from Serra Oca, Vinhos
is ideal for making sweet, fortified wines. The Aparte, Bago de Tourigo Gouvyas, and Uivo.
most well known of these is the Moscatel of The first two are from the Lisbon region, and
Setúbal, and these wines are marked by an the latter two come from Douro.
intense sweetness balanced by a bit of
acidity, amber color and floral nose. A sweet The Moscatel Graúdo grape is the one used
fortified Moscatel is also made in the Douro by Serra Oca, and is a single varietal wine. It
region, most famously in the towns of Alijó displays the bold, powerfully exotic floral
and Favaios, on the northern edge of the aromas that Moscatels are famous for, as
Cima Corgo area. well as honey, mint and pine in the nose, but
the pallet is full of freshness, acidity and a
Moscatel originates from the Middle East and clean, quenching finish. Like many of these
was brought to Europe at the time of the modern Moscatel wines, it develops some
Roman Empire. It is said that these vines may color from maceration (skin contact), making
be the oldest known family of grapes. it fit both white and orange wine categories.
Because of this, there are different strains or
varieties of Moscatel throughout the grape Vinhos Aparte likes to do things a
growing world. Moscatel de Setúbal little differently, and if you are familiar
(historically known as Muscat of Alexandria) with their wines you already know
and Moscatel Galego Branco (Muscat Blanc à this to be true. They got their start
Petits Grains), typical to the Douro, are the with a lost-and-then-found barrel of
most widely recognized Moscatel varieties in Moscatel de Setúbal which became
Portugal. A mutation of Moscatel Galego their first orange wine. The 2019
Branco called Graúdo can be found in Ambar was made of a two-region
Setúbal and the Lisbon region, as well as the blend of Moscatel de Setúbal,
purple-pink Moscatel Roxo. Moscatel Roxo (both from
Palmela), and Arinto (from
But we are here to talk about fresh, springy, Alenquer). Their orange wines
floral and flavorful dry white or skin contact are dark in color, bold in flavor,
wines. Wines that are perfect for a sunny and full of complexity. Their next
afternoon, that can take you through release is eagerly anticipated.
appetizers and into dinner time. Moscatel is a
10 | R ELISHPORTUGAL .com | APR /M AY /J UN 2021Bok Choy Muchim (Korean Bok Choy Salad)
Spicy Asian flavors are a great balance to true floral
Bago de Tourigo Gouvyas
and fruity notes of the dry moscatel wines.
Moscatel Galego is a
collaboration from Douro
winemakers Luis Soares • 5 heads (about 1lb) of baby bok choy, ends cut off,
Duarte and João Roseira. It is stalks separated
different from its southern • 1 carrot, grated
relation with a bit of a shift into • 1 shallot, chopped
a more acidic and restrained • 1 bunch of fresh coriander (cilantro), chopped
white wine that stills shows off • 2 tsp toasted sesame seeds
with peach, nectarine, and
other perfumed stone fruits. At Dressing:
once floral, musky and
seductive, the palate is as
• 1½ tbsp doenjang 된장 (Korean fermented soybean paste)
clean and dry as they come,
with a very distinct Douro or red miso paste
Valley saline minerality. • 2 tsp Spicy Korean Chili Seasoning
• 1-2 tsp gochujang 고추장 (Korean red chili paste)
Uivo, from Folias de Baco and • 1 tsp soy sauce or tamari
Tiago Sampaio, makes a • 1 scallion, thinly sliced
Moscatel Galego Branco that • 1 tsp honey
bridges the gap between the • 1-2 cloves of garlic, finely chopped
bold honeysuckle flavors from
• 2 tsp toasted sesame oil
the Lisbon area Moscatels and
the restrained elegance of
Begin by making the dressing. In a mixing bowl, combine
Gouvyas. Pale yellow in color,
this wine has a nose of lemon doenjang (or red miso paste), Spicy Korean Chili
balm, lemongrass, and ginger. Seasoning, gochujang, soy sauce (or tamari), scallion,
It is zippy and refreshing on the honey, garlic, and toasted sesame oil. Mix well and set
palate with low alcohol and a aside.
delicate and slowly fading
finish. This wine is definitely a Bring a pot of water to a boil. Blanch the bok choy for about
perfect choice for sitting about one minute until the white stalks just begin to wilt. Drain well
in the sunshine. and rinse in cold water to stop from continuing to cook.
Aren’t you thirsty now? Isn’t the
With your hands (wearing disposable plastic gloves), gently
sun calling? Put together your
tastiest charcuterie board and squeeze out any excess water from the bok choy. Add them
once that bottle is chilled, enjoy into a bowl with the grated carrot and chopped shallots and
the flavors of springtime. then, using your hands, gently toss them until very well
coated. Sprinkle with toasted sesame seeds, fresh
coriander and enjoy!
Black Sheep Lisboa is Lisbon’s smallest wine bar and garrafeira. They have
carefully curated one of the only selections of 100% Portuguese wines in Lisbon
exclusively dedicated to small independent producers and
genuine experiences. Praça das Flores, 62, Lisbon, Portugal
Want Black Sheep’s thoughtfully curated wine delivered to
your doorstep? Visit their new online shop, Real Portuguese Wine,
catering to the natural, organic, biodynamic, low-intervention,
small-producer-wine-lover like you!
APR /M AY /J UN 2021 | RELISHPORTUGAL .com | 11It must’ve been written in the stars. Born on March 14, otherwise known as Pi
N Day, Chef James Naisbitt was destined to make his mark creating fabulous pies
in a laid-back, lux dining setting, PIE Lagos. Together with fellow Brit, surfer, and
O PIE Lagos co-owner Robbie Holland (the libation master/bar manager), in 2019
they created a place where people could come to eat AND drink, a hybrid
T destination where the food and drink are equally important.
But back to pie. 10+ years ago, Chef James bet his friends that there was
absolutely nothing you couldn’t put into a pie. That idea evolved into the ‘build
F your own pie’ concept that you see in the restaurant today. And they both agree,
who doesn’t love pie? There are so many varieties and flavors—from sweet to
R savory, hot or cold—you can find a pie for every occasion. It’s versatile, too. You
can eat a small snack pie on the go or a slice of pie as a full meal. Pie can be as
O diverse as a Cornish pasty, a quiche, or even the popular English dessert,
banoffee pie.
M
It turns out that pie has been around since the ancient Egyptians. The first pie
recipe, a goat cheese and honey pie, was published by the Romans. Early pies
were mostly meat-filled with beef, lamb, duck, etc., eaten in medieval England
A since the 12th century. Fruit pies, or sweet pies, were introduced around the
1500s. Pies were a great way to preserve food at the time, their crusty (usually
R inedible) pie tops helped to preserve the filling inside. English settlers brought
O pie to America with them. You’ve heard it, “as American as apple pie.” Pumpkin
pie is served almost without fail at Thanksgiving celebrations across the country.
U Well-loved in England, the early Cornish pasty was built with the traditional meat
N and potato filling at one end and a sweet apple filling at the other, separated with
a piece of stale bread. It was designed to be a full 2-course workman’s lunch,
D often carried in their pockets. The farmer or miner could eat it with one hand by
gripping the sturdy crimping along the edge, which could then be thrown away if
they had dirty hands.
H A hallmark of PIE Lagos is Chef James’ and Robbie’s ongoing commitment to
working with local suppliers and producers whenever possible, making the
E seasonality of his menus practical. This runs through his meat and veg suppliers
all the way to the beers served at PIE Lagos. They’ve partnered with artisanal
R brewers Marafada to create their own craft beer. They’re also proud to serve up
E Portuguese brews, including Mania, the first microbrewery in Lagos, as well as a
rotating tap of guest brews.
TO EAT: Build your own meat, fish, vegetarian, or
vegan pies. Order in or takeaway.
Website: PIE-Lagos.com
Facebook: @Pie.LagosPortugal
WHAT ELSE: Craft beer, cocktails, international cuisine
12 | R ELISHPORTUGAL .com | APR /M AY /J UN 2021What? Not a pie lover? No worries, there’s more to PIE Lagos than meets the eye. Sure, their
pies are important but they are just one small part of what they do: a bar and restaurant serving
exciting and varied international cuisine along with exceptional craft beers and cocktails.
Portuguese chef João Vairinhos graces the PIE
Lagos kitchen, bringing recipes from his
Grandmother Laurinda to delighted diners. Her
dishes, such as stuffed squid, have become
customer favorites and they are eager to
introduce more of these. “Our aim is to take
classic Portuguese dishes, deconstruct them,
and present them in a modern and exciting
way. For example, one of the first things on our
list will be feijoada, served in a way you haven’t
seen before. We’re also developing pie with a
Portuguese PIE twist, think bacalhau pie,” noted
Chef James.
Over the last year, they’ve developed their cleverly named
takeaway program, PIE This At Home. At their central-Lagos
restaurant, you can enjoy the privacy of one of their unique
custom-built booths, chill on their private and charming terrace, or pull up a barstool. Know an
Algarve-living, pie-loving person? A PIE Lagos gift card might be a tasty way to say you care.
Regardless of how you choose to experience PIE Lagos, Chef James, Robbie, and the crew—all
as nice as pie—can’t wait to see you.
Goat Cheese, Walnut, Red Onion, and Honey Tarts
• 1 small red onion, thinly sliced
• 2 tbsp brown sugar
• 1 tbsp balsamic vinegar
• 1 pre-made puff pastry sheet
• 1 log fresh Portuguese goat cheese, sliced into 12 circles
• 4 tsp local honey
• 50 gr crushed walnuts
• small bag or bunch fresh rocket (arugula)
Heat a small amount of olive oil in a medium sauté pan and cook the onions until soft. Add the
sugar and allow it to dissolve. Add the balsamic vinegar and a drop of water. Stir and continue
cooking the onions until they become sticky. Remove from heat.
Cut the puff pastry sheet in quarters and round the edges if desired. Place onto a parchment
paper-lined baking tray. In the center of each piece of pastry add 3 slices of goat cheese and top
with the caramelized balsamic onions. Drizzle with 1 teaspoon of honey and sprinkle with
crushed walnuts.
Bake at 190°C for 10 minutes, until golden and crisp. Serve warm on a bed of rocket,
drizzled with balsamic glaze.
APR /M AY /J UN 2021 | RELISHPORTUGAL .com | 13Half Fox, Bordalo II, 2017, Lisbon, Portugal
Urban artist Artur Bordalo uses the name Bordalo II, chosen as a tribute to his grandfather, the prolific
painter Real Bordalo, honoring his legacy. The construction and development of Bordalo II’s work is
focused on questioning today’s materialistic and greedy society of which he is (also) part. His work is
the vehicle of a universal manifesto.
Garbage is the unique and unusual raw material he uses to
construct small and large scales pieces across the globe. To
date (since 2012), Bordalo II has reused 62 tons of materials
destined for the landfill. In addition to “ street art”, Bordalo II
welcomes commissions, new projects and partnerships. Facebook: @BORDALOII Instagram: @b0rdalo_ii
Website: https://www.bordaloii.com/
Look for Bordalo II’s Big Trash Animals all across Portugal, with a concentration in LisbonL ET ’ S Culinary Ervas (Herbs) In
T ALK Your Portuguese Cozinha
P RACTICE P ORTUGUESE L EARNING S TUDIO — Strictly European Portuguese Since 2012
Though often used interchangeably, ervas (herbs) and especiarias (spices) are different from
one another. Not in every case but generally, herbs are leafy things like manjericão (basil),
alecrim (rosemary), and salsa (parsley); spices are seeds, either whole or ground, like
cominhos (cumin), açafrão-da-terra (turmeric), and erva-doce (anise seed). We talked about
spices in the last issue of Relish Portugal (Jan/Feb/Mar ‘21). This time we’ll take a closer look
at herbs used in Portuguese cooking.
Depending on the type of herb, you can buy them in many different forms:
• frescas (fresh) (in a pot or small package)
• secas (dried)
• congeladas (frozen)
Fresh herbs often have better flavor but dried alternatives are
• moídas (ground)
more practical for people who don’t cook often. They’re also
• inteiras (whole)
easier to find at the grocery store, whereas certain fresh herbs
can only be found at a farmers market. Many Portuguese people
like to use their little backyards or gardens to grow fresh herbs.
Típico Ervas (Typical Herbs)
They may not be in every kitchen, but these herbs are among the
most common in Portuguese cozinhas (kitchens):
Coentros (Cilantro) and Salsa (Parsley)
Coentros (Cilantro), also know as coriander,
and salsa (parsley) are two similar looking
herbs with a different taste and smell. Don’t be fooled. While salsa might
sound like the herb you’d use in Mexican food (think the tomato/onion/
jalapeno salsa we all know and love) it’s not. Instead, salsa in Portugal is
parsley. A very different flavor profile. Dried or frozen options for both
exist, but they taste better fresh.
Salsa, usually found northern Portuguese recipes, is often one of the last
things to add to a Portuguese dish, since cooking it diminishes the flavor.
It’s so popular that, when paying for vegetables or fruits at mercearias
(grocery stores) and mini-mercados (mini-markets), it’s not unusual for
people to ask for complimentary branches of parsley. Usually, the only fish
it is combined with is bacalhau (codfish).
Coentros, a southern Portugal staple, is often a main ingredient in soups and
APR /M AY /J UN 2021 | RELISHPORTUGAL .com | 15sauces and it pairs nicely with fish and clams. Coentros is also one of the ingredients in the
popular dish Açorda à Alentejana. This dish consists mainly of bread and originates in the Alentejo
region, but is now popular in restaurants and homes all across the country. A genetic quirk can
make cilantro taste soapy to some.
Louro (Bay Leaf)
Probably the most used herb in all of Portuguese cuisine, louro (bay leaf)
comes from a tree called the loureiro (bay laurel). Louro is typically used
whole and dry, and you can find it in all types of marinades and refogados
(sautées). Adding bay leaf is a good way of cutting the
amount of salt in a recipe while giving it a distinct flavor.
Alecrim (Rosemary)
When seasoning meat and/or making roasts, a great replacement for louro is
alecrim (rosemary) as it also goes well with potatoes. One common mistake
people make to call rosemary “rosmaninho”, which in fact is another name for
alfazema (lavender), another delighful culinary herb, and not alecrim.
Other herbs Hortelã (Mint)
• tomilho (thyme) Cultivated in Portugal and known for In the center and north of Portugal,
its medicinal properties, goes well with meat and fish hortelã (mint) is used instead of
dishes. coentros as one of the ingredients of
Açorda. It’s also a popular garnish
• oregãos (oregano) An herb strongly associated with for canja (chicken soup). If you
Mediterranean cuisine, especially Italian, Portuguese choose to grow hortelã be sure to
folks like to use it as seasoning in tomato and contain it, once it gets established it
cucumber salads. grows like a weed.
• manjericão (basil) One of the most popular herbs
worldwide, goes well with tomatoes, pastas and many
other foods.
• cebolinho (chives) Not very present in Portuguese
recipes but is a great addition to sauces, cheeses,
and omelets.
• aneto (dill) Challenging to find fresh in the grocery
Carqueja
stores but usually available at large markets, dill is a
natural with salmon, pickles, and green beans.
Carqueja is a plant native to the
center and north of Portugal. Its
• estragão (tarragon) Not a popular herb, but one that’s
dried flowers are used to make Arroz
good for making sauces and seasoning white meats.
de Carqueja and season game meat,
mainly coelho (rabbit).
With the arrival of spring, consider cultivating your own at-home herb garden, be it in your jardim
do quintal (backyard garden) or on your peitoril da janela da cozinha (kitchen windowsill). For
almost equal the price of fresh cut herbs at stores and markets, you can have a lovely looking,
growing supply of the herbs you use and love.
16 | R ELISHPORTUGAL .com | APR /M AY /J UN 2021Molly Rudesill’s Salada de Polvo
•
•
2 kg octopus, cleaned (frozen or fresh)
100 ml olive oil Simple Salads for
• 30 ml vinegar (red wine or white wine) Perfect Spring Picnics
• small handful of fresh cilantro, chopped
• small handful of fresh parsley, chopped
• 1 carrot
• 1 large onion
• 5 cloves of garlic, 3 crushed, 2 minced Rodrigo Sarrat-Cave’s Go-To
• 3 bay leaves Greenmarket Potato Salad
• 1 lemon or lime
• salt/pepper to taste • 4 ears of corn, shucked, boiled or a
10-oz package of frozen corn, thawed
Add the following ingredients to a large pot: • 1½ pounds boiling potatoes, quartered
octopus, ½ an onion, carrot, the 3 crushed cloves lengthwise and cut crosswise into
of garlic, the stems of the cilantro, a few large ¾” slices
strips of the lemon or lime peel, bay leaves, salt • 5 tbsp white wine vinegar
and pepper. Cover the ingredients with water, • 1 c packed fresh basil leaves, chopped
bring to boil, and simmer for 45 minutes to an hour • 1 small clove of garlic, chopped
or until tender. • ½ c olive oil
• ½ red onion, finely chopped
While that is cooking, combine the following in a • ½ pint cherry tomatoes, quartered
bowl: the other half of the onion, minced, cilantro,
parsley, the 2 minced garlic cloves, olive oil, If using fresh corn, with a serrated knife
vinegar, and juice from the lemon or lime. When cut the kernels from the cobs. Using the
the octopus is fork tender remove it from the back of the knife, scrape the remaining
boiling pot and cut it into small pieces. Add it to the corn from the cobs. Put the fresh corn or
olive oil mixture and marinate for 15 minutes or so, thawed frozen corn in a large bowl.
adjust the seasonings to taste, and serve!
In a steamer over boiling water, steam the
potatoes, covered, for 8-10 minutes or
“Like having a personal tutor”, "visibly stunned”, until just tender. Add to the bowl and toss
and “absolutely essential” are just a few of the the mixture with 1 tablespoon of the
glowing recommendations for the online learning vinegar and salt to taste.
resource, Practice Portuguese Learning Studio.
Rui, Joel and their team specialize in strictly
European Portuguese, offering over 400 lessons In a blender or food processor blend the
with more added frequently. Listen to dialogue and basil, the garlic and the remaining 4
learn with native European Portuguese speakers, tablespoons of vinegar. With the motor
test your pronunciation with running, add the oil in a stream to emulsify
their speaking tool, master
the dressing.
verbs, and quiz yourself.
European Portuguese is a Pour the dressing over the corn and
beautiful language that potatoes. Add the onion, cherry tomatoes,
deserves to be made easily accessible to learners and salt and pepper to taste. Toss, cover,
worldwide. Visit PracticePortuguese.com, review
and chill overnight. Serve at room
their free material, and check out their affordable
and effective membership program. temperature.
APR /M AY /J UN 2021 | RELISHPORTUGAL .com | 17Born and raised in beautiful Braga,
M Y T OWN :
voted the European Best
Destination 2021, Rui Araújo loves
R UI A RAÚJO
his town. The vibe is smooth and
the people are genuine. It’s a short
drive to Spain, beautiful beaches, and Portugal’s only National Park, Peneda-Gerês. But there’s
so much to see in this more than 2000-year-old city, the third-largest in Portugal, that you could
spend a lifetime, as Rui has, exploring the history, architecture, and romance of Braga. He wants
us to pick up a cavaquinho (yes, the ukulele is from Braga), attend one of the many festivals
throughout the year, spot sensational street art, and immerse ourselves in Braga’s culture.
Then there’s gastronomy. It’s Rui’s absolute belief that to really understand a country, a person
must try the local food and wine, the soul of its people. That’s why it seemed odd to him that
visitors to Braga were often spotted eating fast food. Famous for its Braga-style Cod, Braga-style
Duck Rice, Frigideiras do Cantinho, Papas de Sarrabulho, and Pudim Abade de Priscos, it was a
shame they were missing out. Perhaps, he thought, it was because Portuguese gastronomy,
wines, and products were undervalued around the world, despite their quality and price. Sure, for
many (especially Americans), a fish at the market or on the plate—head, skin, bones, and all—is
unusual but, with some guidance, soon he found they were living like locals and enjoying the
generous flavors of Portugal.
After the financial crisis of 2008, this former financial consultant formally pivoted, offering his
deep knowledge of Portugal to expat wannabes via his consultancy, How To Portugal. As a
natural result of sharing the food and wine he is passionate about, Rui also opened the aptly
named Food & Wine Experiences to introduce regional delights. He helps his clients “taste and
relish the best things we have in the Minho region and Portugal.” Rui offers his customers four
different “experiences.” These include Portuguese product gift boxes chock full of olive oil, jams,
wine, canned goods, cheese, and other Portuguese taste
sensations to be purchased in person or sent to any address
around the world; fully-guided, personalized walking and
tasting tours; authentic, hands-on cooking classes and
workshops for groups and individuals; and event planning
including weddings, birthdays, reunions, a small private dinner
for that special moment, or other occasions as requested.
As we’re known to do, Relish Portugal asked Rui to share with us how he spends his time in his
historic town. He kindly spilled the Braga beans!
Relax with a beverage: Sit a spell and people watch at the historic Café Vianna, a local
hotspot since 1858, enjoy a craft beer at Mal Amado, dance the night away at Disco Dona Rosa
Ogle Architecture: Explore the architectural landscape of the iconic Sanctuary of Bom Jesus
do Monte, take in a show or at least a guided tour at Theatro Circo, marvel at the rebuilt ruins of
Mosteiro de Sao Martinho de Tibaes
Have a Proper Portuguese Meal: Enjoy a fine and fancy lunch or dinner in one of the their
unique spaces at Dona Júlia, have a bite at a traditional tasca, Tasquinha Dom Ferreira, or go
for always amazing Italian at Ristorante Pizzeria Mamma Mia
18 | R ELISHPORTUGAL .com | APR /M AY /J UN 2021P ORTUGUESE M AKERS Paulo Tuna The Bladesmith:
Extraordinary Knives
At once a master craftsman and a humble maker,
Paulo Tuna The Bladesmith has honed his skills, crafting
gorgeous knives for the likes of professional chefs including
Portugal’s Alexandre Silva, Kiko Martins, Vitor Sobral, and João
Rodrigues, amongst others. In a 2018 VICE story, Michelin-
starred Chef Silva was quoted “Paulo Tuna is the best
manufacturer of knives in Portugal, perhaps in the world.”
Let that sink in a minute.
His work (in partnership with his friend, cutter Carlos Norte) has
also graced the kitchen of Copenhagen’s famous Noma,
considered one of the world’s best restaurants. In 2012 Noma
sub-chef Leonardo Pereira ordered a Paulo Tuna meat knife. In
turn, Noma chef and co-owner Rene Redzepi ordered 90 elegant,
custom-made puukko knives to be used as part of Noma’s
table cutlery.
Yet Sr. Tuna takes equal pleasure in knowing his work plays a role
in creating family meals and snacks with friends. His knives are
used by home cooks across the globe. From New Zealand to Italy
to Africa, Spain, the US, Switzerland, Portugal, and more, this
sculptor-turned-bladesmith takes great satisfaction in knowing that
these objects play a part in moments of happiness.
Unique and forged by hand in his Caldas da Rainha workshop, no
two knives are alike. The Bladesmith—like a mad scientist
creating pieces from his passionate imagination paired with his
years of experience—transforms raw materials into works of
functional art. Customers choose the blade’s metal and the type of
wood used for the handle (typically a Portuguese national wood).
After thoughtful design and the repeated heating, hammering,
cooling, and sculpting, each knife’s lines come together in
harmony, resulting in an ergonomic, well-balanced knife that’s
comfortable to handle and a pleasure to use.
As for the striking hammered, unpolished metal that adorns the
top of each custom blade, Sr. Tuna tells us, “that feature can be
seen as the digital impression of the knife, one of the aspects that
makes each one unique. It can also be seen as a landscape to
remind me of my origins.”
And his origins are modest. Deep down, it’s long been Sr. Tuna’s
life goal that every person should have a beautifully-crafted,
See Paulo Tuna The Bladesmith’s
Portuguese-made Paulo Tuna knife. Recognizing that not
prolific work, learn about the
everyone is in a financial position to purchase a custom creation, metals he uses, order a knife,
Sr. Tuna is developing a Faca do Povo (folks knife), an item that is schedule a shop visit, or learn
affordable to almost anyone. The traditional model knife, artisan- about upcoming workshops and
designed with every attention to detail, will be semi-industrially fairs at thebladesmith.pt, on
manufactured and he expects to make them available in 2021. Facebook, and Instagram.
APR /M AY /J UN 2021 | RELISHPORTUGAL .com | 19Two Pelicans In The Heart Of Lisbon, Bordalo II, 2020, Lisbon, Portugal
Rui Araújo’s Braga-Style Cod Two
Traditional
•
•
2 cod loins, presoaked and dried
olive oil (depending on the size of the pan, use at least 0.5L)
Dishes From
• 2 onions, sliced Northern
•
•
4 cloves of garlic, 2 roughly chopped, 2 whole
4 (or more) potatoes, thickly sliced
Portugal
• 2 bay leaves
• 1 tbsp of vinegar
• 1 tbsp (or more to taste) sweet paprika (pimentão doce)
• salt to taste
Heat olive oil in a large sauté pan and cook the onions until soft. Add the two chopped cloves of
garlic and cook until fragrant. Spoon out of pan, using a slotted spoon, into a serving dish and set
aside (place it in the oven to keep warm).
Using the same large sauté pan and the same olive oil fry the potatoes. Remove them to another
serving dish, again with a slotted spoon, and place them in the oven to keep warm.
In the same large sauté pan, add the bay leaves and two whole cloves of garlic. When the olive
oil is hot again, add the cod and let it sauté. Remove the cooked cod to a platter. Spoon the
potatoes around the cod. Top the cod with the onion mix and then vinegar. Drizzle the olive oil (6
or more tablespoons, if you like) you just used over the entire platter.
Sprinkle a tablespoon (or more if you like) of sweet paprika (pimentão doce) over the onions and
cod. Serve with a crisp green salad and a cold bottle of quality green wine.
Paulo Tuna’s Feijoada à Transmontana
• 2 medium onions, chopped
• 2 cloves of garlic, chopped
• 500 gr dried red beans, soaked overnight
• 50 ml olive oil
• 250 gr smoked pork ear
• 1 dl white wine
• 250 gr smoked pork shank
• 1 bay leaf
• 200 gr bacon
• 1 carrot, sliced
• 200 gr beef cubes
• 1 bunch turnip greens, washed and torn
• 1 chorizo link
• salt to taste
• chilli pepper to taste
In a large saucepan, cook the beans in the
soaking water. When soft, remove the beans and reserve the cooking water.
In the same pan, cook the meat (with the exception of the beef) and chorizo, removing and
breaking up each piece as it’s cooked.
In another large saucepan, heat olive oil and cook the onions until soft. Add the garlic and cook
until fragrant. Add the beef cubes, white wine, and the bay leaf to the onion/garlic mixture. Stew
slowly, adding the water from the beans as needed. Add the carrot and turnip greens, cooking
until soft. Reintroduce the meat, season with salt and chili, and add the beans. Allow to simmer
for 15 minutes or until the flavors are melded. Serve hot with Agulha rice.
APR /M AY /J UN 2021 | RELISHPORTUGAL .com | 21The Culinary Institute
of America: Portugal’s
Gastronomic Legacy
Chances are you’ve heard of the world’s premier culinary college, The Culinary
Institute of America (CIA). With four campuses—Hyde Park, New York; Napa Valley,
California; San Antonio, Texas; and Singapore—this venerable institution was founded
in 1947 and has since schooled some of the culinary greats, including their most
famous graduate, Anthony Bourdain (’78), and forward-thinking Portuguese NYC chef,
Georges Mendes (’92). If you’ve been fortunate, you may have toured their gorgeous
grounds, eaten a meal in a student-run dining establishment, attended a conference,
taken a class (online or in-person), or even graduated from the CIA. A foodies dream,
right?
In 2004, they launched their James Beard Award-winning World Culinary Arts Video
Series, “seeking out the gold standards of culinary traditions, examining iconic recipes
of a given country, that when understood, provide a window into the whole of that
nation’s culture.” Each country or region’s edition begins with an introduction to their
unique cuisine and culture then continues with short master class episodes. In these,
you’ll enjoy top chefs discussing flavors, ingredients, and techniques while preparing
signature dishes. And, in true teaching form, you’ll find two free, downloadable recipe
books—one from the CIA
and one from the series’
generous supporter, Unilever
—with each location they’ve
visited.
In 2020 Portugal was the
focus—one of the world’s
great food cultures—in the
latest installment of the CIA’s
World Culinary Arts. Among
the 21 videos exploring
Portuguese gastronomy, we
learn about what’s been
called one of the world's 20
best soups, Caldo Verde, the
suckling pig (that Carl Munson from Good Morning Portugal! raved about) at Rei dos
Leitoes, take a chorizo making lesson from Caseiro e Bom in Newark, New Jersey, a
visit to O Churrasco for the secret to their amazing spinach, and more in this in-depth
series that captured our hearts.
22 | R ELISHPORTUGAL .com | APR /M AY /J UN 2021We sat down with CIA graduate (’97) and everybody. It's been underwritten by
Director of Strategic Initiatives, Digital Unilever Food Solutions. They are a
Media, John Barkley, to learn more about partner in developing this and have been
this installment of the video series. since the very beginning.
Relish Portugal: Hello John and thank We've traveled all over the world to many
you for your amazing, award-winning work different countries and regions, Peru to
and this detailed look at Portuguese Indonesia to Scandinavia to Spain and
cuisine. Let’s dive in with a look at the Italy, all over. Our most recent edition is
video series as a whole. centered on American barbecue which is
the first time we've focused on barbecue or
John Barkley: My pleasure, really happy the US. We're making an effort to go
to join you. Thank you for inviting me. around the world and add to the
understanding of world cuisines.
We've been producing this series for over
17 years, documenting the cuisines of the RP: It's an impressive collection of work.
world, focusing on several key dishes of And Portugal, the 16th installment of this
each cuisine. We look at both what's documentary series. What brought you
happening on a street food or informal here and what's so special about
culinary level as well as what's happening Portugal’s gastronomy?
on the high end. In this series, we strive to
provide insight into what makes authentic JB: We base our next location on many
dishes authentic, what makes classic factors. Portugal is a special country in
dishes classic, and what key ingredients terms of its history in world trade and
and cooking techniques you need to know colonization. Also, Portugal is responsible
and master when cooking this cuisine in a for disseminating and exchanging many of
restaurant or home kitchen. the key ingredients and cooking
techniques we employ today,
such as frying. A lot of people
don't know that frying was
introduced to Japan by the
Portuguese. While we don't
know if it originated in
Portugal, the Portuguese
introduced tempura to Japan.
There's a deep history with
Goa, in the Portuguese trade
through there, as well as the
Spice Islands and other
regions throughout the world. I
think Portugal has a unique
place in European cuisine, as
well as world cuisine, in terms
of its history and legacy.
Our goal is to take a cross-segment of any
given cuisine and document that for future
RP: How do you choose what dishes,
generations of our culinary students and
chefs, and locations to spotlight?
the media. Added to our archives at the
CIA, we’re very happy to have this great,
JB: We have several different sources, a
free online resource that's available to
large extended family of adjunct faculty
APR /M AY /J UN 2021 | RELISHPORTUGAL .com | 23and contributors plus chef partners around
the world. It’s a chorus of voices. We
reach out to those people and ask for
recommendations. We also consider food
guides such as Michelin. That's part of the
research. We compile the information
we’ve gathered, sort through it, and do
pre-interviews. Also, we work with chefs
on the ground, recommending other chefs.
They'll say, “you're coming to my place but
you definitely want to check out this
place.”
On the other side of the Atlantic, New York
Because we're in the country for a limited City’s Chef George Mendes at Aldea was
amount of time, usually about two weeks, able to provide a contemporary view on
we boil it down to a small list. It ends up translating authentic world flavors for North
being nine intensive days of filming. We American audiences. Flavors native to his
look at a cultural cross-section, from street country, true to their origin.
food to cutting-edge types of restaurants
as well as institutions that can’t be missed. RP: What surprised you most about
Portuguese gastronomy?
RP: You had the good fortune of spending
time with Chef Jose Avillez, a local hero JB: Two things. First, the vast and various
and international culinary icon. Tell us a connections to world cuisine. Filming this
little bit about your time with him. edition was a history lesson as well as a
lesson in appreciating the tastes of each
JB: He was great. He took us to the particular region.
market and showed us around a couple of
his Lisbon restaurants. Chef Avillez is a The abundance and quality of fresh
very accomplished professional, very ingredients was a revelation. With the
worldly, has traveled extensively, and has history of the cuisine and Portugal’s
a wide network of chefs and food amazing natural resources, chefs can do
professionals. He was able to describe remarkable things.
how modern contemporary Portuguese
cuisine fits on the world stage and Excellent seafood is paired with simple
articulate the place that Portugal holds applications: straightforward sauces or even
within that community. just olive oil and garlic. That was deliciously
apparent when we visited Marisqueira
Cervejaria Ramiro. It’s the freshness, the
diversity of the different seafood. Not just
the many different prawns but different
shellfish. That makes it special.
RP: As a long-standing higher-learning
institution with graduates worldwide, how do
you connect the world of food?
JB: Over the years we’ve made a lot of
friends who we’re able to work with in our
pro-facing Worlds of Flavor conferences.
24 | R ELISHPORTUGAL .com | APR /M AY /J UN 2021We invite many of the people we meet across the globe, for example, Chef Jesuslee
Fernandes from Jesus é Goês in Lisbon, back to the US to showcase their talents,
skills, and share their food with a group of American chefs. These conferences host
300-400 people, once or twice a year. It's a great exchange, bringing chefs together.
We’re excited about a new series that we're developing called the Plant-Forward
Kitchen. Globally, we recognize the need to change our consumption, both for health
reasons and sustainability. For the future of the planet, we need to scale back our
consumption of animal proteins and focus more on a plant-based diet. This doesn't
necessarily mean vegan or vegetarian but rather thinking of animal protein in smaller
portions, almost like a condiment or flavoring.
Interestingly, we’ll soon be hosting a Plant-Forward Summit and developing a
curriculum in partnership with Google Food. Through that, Google Food will be training
its workforce.
RP: Can the home cook learn from/at The Culinary Institute of America?
JB: Absolutely. Our World Culinary Arts Video Series and accompanying recipe books,
exploring 25 locations, is available online, free. There are also available online
courses. And we’ve just opened a limited number of multi-day culinary Boot Camps
and one-day hands-on classes, some via a partnership with America’s Test Kitchen.
The CIA at Copia, in Napa Valley, is the center for our enthusiast programming but
these in-person classes are being offered at our California, New York, and Texas
campuses. Consider this an invitation, we’d love to see Relish Portugal readers there.
Founded in 1946, The Culinary Institute of America is the world’s premier culinary college.
Dedicated to developing leaders in foodservice and hospitality, the independent,
not-for-profit CIA offers master’s, bachelor’s, and associate degrees with
majors in culinary arts, baking and pastry arts, food business management,
hospitality management, culinary science, and applied food studies. The
college also offers executive education, certificate programs, and courses for
professionals and enthusiasts. Its conferences, leadership initiatives, and
consulting services have made the CIA the think tank of the food industry and
its worldwide network of more than 50,000 alumni includes innovators in every
area of the food world. Visit them online. Watch World Culinary Arts: Portugal.
Images courtesy of The Culinary Institute of America.
APR /M AY /J UN 2021 | RELISHPORTUGAL .com | 25You can also read
