Welcome to the A-listers' secret island - Mediterranean - Hôtel & Spa des Pêcheurs

Page created by Seth Cunningham
 
CONTINUE READING
Welcome to the A-listers' secret island - Mediterranean - Hôtel & Spa des Pêcheurs
Date: 27 June 2015
                                       Page: 30,31
                                       Circulation: 399915
                                       Readership: 1155000
                                       Size (Cm2): 1717
                                       AVE: 52334.16
                                       Display Rate: (£/cm2): 30.48

                            Mediterranean

                            Welcome to
                            the A-listers’
                            secret island
                                The isle of Cavallo
                                off Corsica has
                                lovely beaches, great
                                diving and one chic
                                hotel. No wonder
                                Beyoncé loves it,
                                says Sean Thomas
                                                                               boat from Figari airport in Corsica) yet

                           P
                                           iece together your perfect          feels like it is on the other side of the globe:
                                           island. It might have French        in a yearned-for world where there isn’t
                                           cooking, Italian grace and          much to do, in the nicest possible way.
                                           styling or perhaps a hint of           And we’re here to do just that.
                                           Spanish sexiness. What else?           On our first morning at the Hotel & Spa
                                           How about a clear, warm,            des Pêcheurs (the only going concern on
                                           Seychellois sea that unrolls its    Cavallo, apart from a smattering of villas
                            lacy waves on to gleaming deserted                 that can be rented from time to time
                            beaches: because this island is private.           and a couple of independent eateries),
                              It’s just a dream, of course. Or is it? Let me   I approach Giuseppe. He’s head barman at
                            introduce you to Cavallo — sometimes               the hotel’s Shore Club, an agreeably affable
                            called the Mustique of the Med — a flat,           place, with its bowered sunbeds and its
                            rocky, sunny, myrtle and rosemary-                 tables pitched so close to the waves that
                            perfumed island off southern Corsica.              you can practically eat your salad niçoise
                              Owned by a syndicate of Italian billion-         while you paddle.
                            aires, this jagged, mile-wide chunk of                “So what shall we do this afternoon,
                            demi-paradise is a mere two hours from             Giuseppe? What do you suggest?”
                            Heathrow (and half an hour by taxi and                Th      h      i    Gi           h        H
                                                                       )

Copyright Newspaper Licensing Agency. For internal use only. Not for reproduction.
Welcome to the A-listers' secret island - Mediterranean - Hôtel & Spa des Pêcheurs
Date: 27 June 2015
                                       Page: 30,31
                                       Circulation: 399915
                                       Readership: 1155000
                                       Size (Cm2): 1717
                                       AVE: 52334.16
                                       Display Rate: (£/cm2): 30.48

                               The charming Giuseppe shrugs. He                               derstand. Groupers are
                            looks at the jade-meets-sapphire sea.                              big fish, maybe a metre
                               “Ahhh. You can swim? Maybe you can                              long. A school of them is
                            dive.” Another shrug. “Then maybe swim                              an impressive sight.
                            again.”                                                             Moreover,       in     the
                               “Apart from that?”                                               coral-fringed under-
                               “Eat is good here.”                                              water     canyons       of
                               He’s right. Eat is good here. The Shore                          Merouville, they are so
                            Club has an Italian ambience as well as a                          plentiful and so tame
                            faint Ibizan buzz. Think chillout music and                       that they swim up and
                            nude sunbathing in the next cove along. In                       headbutt your goggles.
                            this mix, though, the attitude to food is                          Don’t despair if you can’t
                            distinctly French. On Giuseppe’s advice                        scuba — the snorkelling is
                            I have a simple carpaccio of fresh fish with                    also excellent. The water is
                                                                                            so clear that visibility is up
                                                                                          to 60 metres, so it’s rather
                           a glass of chilled Corsican rosé. It’s
                           delicious.
                              The seafood should be excellent because
                                                                             like swimming in a vast pool of vodka. In
                           the surrounding seas are special. Cavallo
                                                                             the shallows the little fish dance around
                           (part of France) is one of the islands of the
                                                                             your hands, making you feel like an under-
                           Lavezzi archipelago, and lies in a protected
                                                                             water medieval saint, gifted with the
                           marine environment, shared with nearby
                                                                             language of sticklebacks.
                           Sardinia (part of Italy). No further
                                                                                Swimming, diving, snorkelling and eat-
                           development is allowed on Cavallo itself
                                                                             ing splendid seafood. What else? Well, the
                           (Corsican nationalists firebombed a villa
                                                                             spa is jolly nice. While I am partying with
                           in the 1990s as a protest against invaders).
                                                                             the groupers my girlfriend has a “really
                           On the surrounding islands, no settlement
                                                                             enjoyable” hot-stone massage, with an
                           is allowed at all.
                                                                             emphasis on local stones.
                              Add in the absence of polluting industry,
                                                                                That may not sound so amazing, but —
                           a stiff and cleansing current through the
                                                                             like the seas around Cavallo — those ubi-
                           Strait of Bonifacio and a
                                                                             quitous rocks beneath your sandalled feet
                           ban on large-scale
                                                                             are special. Soft and rounded, they resem-
                           fishing, and you have
                                                                             ble the rocks of the Seychelles. What’s
                           some of the clearest
                                                                             more, at the Hotel des Pêcheurs, where all
                           waters in the Med
                                                                             of the large, soothing rooms have glorious
                           iterranean,
                                                                             balconies with sea views, some of the
                           with some
                                                                             larger boulders are used as features in the
                           of the most
                                                                             rooms, right next to the minibar.
                           amazing aquat-
                                                                                The rocks of Cavallo also played a role in
                           ic life. I’m in-
                                                                             the island’s history. The Romans came in
                           troduced to
                                                                             the second century AD to quarry granite.
                           that life by Sil-
                                                                             You can still see traces of the picks and
                           vio, who runs
                                                                             shovels wielded by slaves. After the
                           the hotel diving
                                                                             Romans left, Cavallo was left to snooze
                                                                             under the Mediterranean sun right up to
                             centre. From June to September Silvio           the 1970s, when a Paris nightlife mogul
                               lives in Cavallo; the rest of the time he     turned it into a retreat for celebrities.
                              is in Thailand (“I don’t like winter”). Sil-      In its heyday as a hideaway, practically
                           vio has dived in some of the most iconic          everyone who was anyone took the ten-
                           scuba sites on the globe and rates Cavallo        minute boat ride from the Corsican main-
                           in the top ten. Why?
                                  “Groupers!” he says. I’m yet to be per-
                                    suaded, mainly because I have no
                                        idea what a grouper is. Then,        land to little Cavallo. Marcello Mastroian-
                                          when we scooch our dinghy          ni, Catherine Deneuve and Petula Clark
                                           to a spot of blue water a kilo-   summered here (Clark called Cavallo a
                                            metre offshore and dive to       heaven on Earth, and said, “we lived like
                                             20 metres, I begin to un-       gypsies and washed in the sea”). Exiled
                                                                                         d

Copyright Newspaper Licensing Agency. For internal use only. Not for reproduction.
Welcome to the A-listers' secret island - Mediterranean - Hôtel & Spa des Pêcheurs
Date: 27 June 2015
                                      Page: 30,31
                                      Circulation: 399915
                                      Readership: 1155000
                                      Size (Cm2): 1717
                                      AVE: 52334.16
                                      Display Rate: (£/cm2): 30.48

                                   princes and incognito artists came too.           sharing, and including
                                      Now Cavallo is being revived. The hotel        accommodation,
                                   and villas are being refurbished and the          flights, transfers, and
                                   celebs are, accordingly, drifting back.           two nights’ in-villa
                                   Some of the Monaco royal family have              chef service.
                                   bought properties and Giuseppe tells me
                                   that Alicia Keys and Beyoncé have been
                                   spotted.
                                      Naturally, this rockrose has a thorn.
                                   Corsica is an expensive place, and Cavallo
                                   is pricier still. Whether you eat at the hotel
                                   or the excellent Italian restaurant near the
                                   island’s tiny marina, you can pay three
                                   figures for a modest dinner. Hiring snor-
                                   kels or renting golf buggies — the best way
                                   of tootling around — is similarly costly.
                                   Then again, what price an empty mind?
                                   Because that is what Cavallo delivers.
                                      After two days, my cares fall away. I turn
                                   off my phone; I shove my laptop in its case.
                                   Strolling to the next empty beach I stare at
                                   the sea and the sky, and I think: what shall
                                   I do next? Then I realise that the silence is
                                   everything. The aimlessness is perfect.
                                   Maybe I’ll take another swim. Or maybe I’ll
                                   sit in the sun, where the air is scented with
                                   wild rosemary, and wait happily for nothing
                                   to happen.

                                      Need to
                                       know

                                   Sean Thomas was a
                                   guest of Simpson Travel
                                   (020 8003 6557,
                                   simpsontravel.com),
                                   which has a week at
                                   the Hotel & Spa des
                                   Pêcheurs from £2,146pp
                                   in September, rising to
                                   £4,496pp in August.
                                   This includes half-board
                                   accommodation,
                                   flights on the weekly
                                   Simpson British Airways
                                   charter into Corsica, and
                                   connections to Cavallo.
                                   Simpson also features
                                   villas on Cavallo, starting
                                   at £865pp in September
                                   rising to £1,750pp in
                                   August, based on ten

Copyright Newspaper Licensing Agency. For internal use only. Not for reproduction.
Welcome to the A-listers' secret island - Mediterranean - Hôtel & Spa des Pêcheurs
Date: 27 June 2015
                                        Page: 30,31
                                        Circulation: 399915
                                        Readership: 1155000
                                        Size (Cm2): 1717
                                        AVE: 52334.16
                                        Display Rate: (£/cm2): 30.48

         Five great deals for island breaks in Europe
         Sicily, Italy                                Details A seven-night B&B stay              Sill, which floats on pontoons. The hotel
         Stay for seven nights at Hotel               costs from £417pp departing from            is made up of six two-storey houses
         Capotaormina and save up to £149 per         Gatwick on July 15, with transfers          with compact, modern rooms. The
         person. The hotel is in a dramatic spot      included (0845 6040035,                     Scandinavian specialist Taber Holidays
         on a headland with a private beach           maltadirect.com)                            has put together a fly-drive package
         overlooking the Bay of Naxos, plus a                                                     that includes four nights on the island
         cliff-top pool. Rooms are spacious and       Lanzarote, Canary Islands                   and three in the city of Gothenburg.
         modern. The hotel has three restaurants      Seven nights’ all-inclusive for less than   Details A week’s B&B with four nights at
         and three bars, and is close to the          £550 in July at a sporty hotel with three   Salt & Sill on Kladesholmen and three in
         historic town of Taormina.                   pools, and a wellness centre with a         Gothenburg is from £1,095pp with
         Details A seven-night B&B stay costs         sauna and hot tub sounds tempting.          flights from Heathrow and car hire for
         from £750pp, including return flights to     That’s the latest offer at Barceló          five days, for travel up to August 31
         Catania and private transfers, for travel    Lanzarote Resort hotel in the Costa         (01274 875199, taberhols.co.uk)
         from September 4 to October 24; you          Teguise area of Lanzarote. The family-
         must book by June 30 (020 7838 5892,         friendly hotel also has a climbing wall,    Kefalonia, Greece
         wexas.com)                                   water slides and a mini golf course. The    Relax on the picturesque island of
                                                      price in July is £270 per couple off the    Kefalonia staying at the Lourdas Beach
         Malta                                        rate published in the brochure.             Apartments on its southern shore. The 12
         There are some great deals in Malta this     Details Seven-nights’ all-inclusive costs   apartments are set around a big infinity
         summer, particularly from the specialist     from £542pp departing from Gatwick on       pool facing the sea. They are close to a
         tour operator Malta Direct. Some of the      July 14, with transfers included (0871      beach and several tavernas, if you want
         best are to be had at the Qawra resort,      2007799, firstchoice.co.uk)                 a break from cooking for yourself.
         by St Paul’s Bay, staying at the four-star                                               Details A week’s self-catering costs from
         Santana Hotel, which is 300m from the        Kladesholmen, Sweden                        £489pp, 23 per cent off the usual price,
         beach. The hotel has a rooftop pool,         Kladesholmen is a small island              departing on July 11 from Gatwick,
         indoor pool, and a spa with a sauna.         connected to mainland Sweden                including transfers (020 8758 4758,
         Rooms have a simple, elegant style. It’s     by a road bridge. It’s a peaceful place     sunvil.co.uk)
         close to restaurants, bars and shops.        with a rather unusual hotel, the Salt &     Tom Chesshyre

Copyright Newspaper Licensing Agency. For internal use only. Not for reproduction.
Welcome to the A-listers' secret island - Mediterranean - Hôtel & Spa des Pêcheurs
Date: 27 June 2015
                                      Page: 30,31
                                      Circulation: 399915
                                      Readership: 1155000
                                      Size (Cm2): 1717
                                      AVE: 52334.16
                                      Display Rate: (£/cm2): 30.48

                                                           Beyoncé, left, and Alicia Keys

Copyright Newspaper Licensing Agency. For internal use only. Not for reproduction.
Welcome to the A-listers' secret island - Mediterranean - Hôtel & Spa des Pêcheurs
Date: 27 June 2015
                                      Page: 30,31
                                      Circulation: 399915
                                      Readership: 1155000
                                      Size (Cm2): 1717
                                      AVE: 52334.16
                                      Display Rate: (£/cm2): 30.48

Copyright Newspaper Licensing Agency. For internal use only. Not for reproduction.
Date: 27 June 2015
                                      Page: 30,31
                                      Circulation: 399915
                                      Readership: 1155000
                                      Size (Cm2): 1717
                                      AVE: 52334.16
                                      Display Rate: (£/cm2): 30.48

                                                                                          5 miles

                                                                     CORSICA

                                                                         Porto
                                                                        Vecchio
                                               t                                     Tyrrhenian
                                                                                        Sea
                                                                 Bonifacio           Cavallo

                                                                        SARDINIA

Copyright Newspaper Licensing Agency. For internal use only. Not for reproduction.
Date: 27 June 2015
                                      Page: 30,31
                                      Circulation: 399915
                                      Readership: 1155000
                                      Size (Cm2): 1717
                                      AVE: 52334.16
                                      Display Rate: (£/cm2): 30.48

        One of the bays on the island of Cavallo,     l
        above; a patio and a bedroom at the           t
        Hotel & Spa des Pêcheurs, right               y

Copyright Newspaper Licensing Agency. For internal use only. Not for reproduction.
You can also read