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Spring 2020 €3.95 UK£3.40 ISSN 0790 8008 Issue 133 HILLWALKING • CLIMBING • MOUNTAINEERING Three Peninsulas Hike Ireland’s greatest high-level long-distance hiking route Climbing the Voie Petit Hardest free rock climb on Chamonix granite www.mountaineering.ie
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A WORd fROM THE EdITOR ISSUE 133 The Irish Mountain Log is the ❝ membership magazine of Mountaineering Ireland. The Welcome organisation promotes the interests of hillwalkers and climbers in Ireland. Mountaineering Ireland Mountaineering Ireland Ltd is a company limited by guarantee and C éad míle fáilte! I hope you are registered in Dublin, No 199053. all keeping well in these Registered office: Irish Sport HQ, extraordinary times? We have National Sports Campus, Blanchardstown, Dublin 15, Ireland. a magazine that is full of Tel: (+353 1) 625 1115 reports of activities that we We can still go walking Fax: (+353 1) 625 1116 can probably now only dream about. However, life goes on! We may not locally, as long as we info@mountaineering.ie www.mountaineering.ie be able to plan exotic holidays at present, maintain our social distance. Hot Rock Climbing Wall but we can still go walking locally, as long Tollymore Mountain Centre as we can maintain our social distance Bryansford, Newcastle from our companions. County Down, BT33 0PT We have a magazine that is full of McDonagh, on hiking and climbing in the Tel: (+44 28) 4372 5354 inspiring accounts of activities in mountain era of Covid-19 (see page 7). However, that youth@mountaineering.ie ranges around the world. The features start advice is changing all the time and will be with Aidan Ennis’ account of the amazing Editor: Patrick O’Sullivan updated further on Tel: (+353 1) 837 8166 (pm, wknds) hike he undertook in Kerry – the Three www.mountaineering.ie as it develops. Our iml-editor@mountaineering.ie Peninsulas Mountain Hike. Almost as CEO strikes a note that is optimistic but Literary Editor: Peter O’Neill amazing is the story of the events that led that also emphasises the precautions we iml-literaryeditor@mountaineering.ie up to that hike. all need to take to protect ourselves, our In addition, we have accounts of hiking in The Irish Mountain Log is published by family and friends, and most importantly Mountaineering Ireland four times a New Zealand and in Nepal, and then a the vulnerable people we know in our year, in March, June, September, description of a superb climb in the Alps, Le communities. December. The material published in Voie Petit, the hardest free rock climb on As we go to print at the end of March, we the Log by the voluntary editorial team Chamonix granite, which was undertaken are still promoting events that are planned and contributors must not be taken as by two leading Irish Alpinists, John McCune for later in the year on the basis that they official Mountaineering Ireland policy and Freja Shannon. unless specifically stated. have not officially been cancelled yet. The Finally, we have an update on the elusive situation is changing day by day and it is Copy deadline for the Summer 2020 hen harrier, with some amazing pictures of likely Covid-19 will affect planned events for issue of the Irish Mountain Log is: this very rare native bird in its breeding at least some months to come. Please do Friday, May 29th 2020. habitat. check the website www.mountaineering.ie Hopefully, there should be something in regularly for updated advice and for Advertising: info@mountaineering.ie this issue for everyone in the audience! updates on forthcoming events. Keep safe! Production: Cóilín MacLochlainn, It is a difficult time for us all and we have coilinmaclochlainn99@gmail.com up-to-date advice from our CEO, Murrough Patrick O’Sullivan, Editor Printing: GPS Colour Graphics Ltd, Alexander Road, Belfast BT6 9HP Tel: +44 (0)28 9070 2020 Write for the Log PARTICIPATION AND RISK Readers of the Irish Mountain Log are reminded that hillwalking and climbing are activities with a danger of personal Contributions of features, news items and photographs for injury or death. Participants in these the Irish Mountain Log are always welcome and should be activities should be aware of and sent to the Editor at: iml-editor@mountaineering.ie. accept these risks, and be responsible for their own actions and involvement. Contributors’ guidelines can be downloaded from the Mountaineering Ireland publishes and promotes safety and good practice Mountaineering Ireland website, www.mountaineering.ie. advice and through the Mountain ON THE COVER Training Board of Ireland administers a To join Mountaineering Ireland and receive four issues of the View from finnararagh looking east range of training programmes for Irish Mountain Log delivered to your door each year, please towards Mullaghanattin on the walkers and climbers. also go to the website, www.mountaineering.ie. Iveragh peninsula in County Kerry PHOTOGRAPH AIdAN ENNIS Spring 2020 Irish Mountain Log 3
Participants at the launch of the CONTENTS Spring 2020 Access & Conservation Forum in November working on a timeline on the history of access and conservation in the uplands. See story, page 28 News 18 Dingle Walking Festival 2020 42 Tongariro Alpine Crossing By Ethna Garvey By Greg Butler 5 Alpinism now ‘cultural 19 Women with Altitude to 46 Overcrowding on the heritage’ celebrate 10th anniversary Everest Trail Patrick O’Sullivan reports Ruth Whelan reports By Jim Ryan 6 Be ‘AdventureSmart’! 20 Wicklow Uplands Council 48 The small way, and others... John McCune climbs the Voie Petit 7 Covid-19: please take discusses recreation matters in Chamonix these precautions Helen Lawless reports 52 The hen harrier Murrough McDonagh reports 21 New climbing wall to open By Mario Mac Rory 8 ‘Life and Times’ – Lynam at UL in May Lecture by Chris Bonington A report by Patrick O’Sullivan Martin Flood reports Regulars 11 The future of hill farming Climbing 56 Access & Conservation Helen Lawless reports in the Dublin Mountains 22 Youth Trad Climbing Camps Wicklow Uplands Council reports 58 Training Damien O’Sullivan reports Photographs: Helen Lawless (Access & Conservation Forum), John McCune Collection (John on Voie Petit) Jane Carney reports 12 Upland farm walks in Dublin 23 Climbing Meets 2020 Dublin Mountains Partnership reports 61 Crossword Competition Damien O’Sullivan reports 13 Tracking the E8 in Ireland 62 Books A report by Marian Wallis 24 2019/2020 Irish Reviews of recent books Bouldering League 66 The Last Word 14 New members of staff: Ania Damien O’Sullivan reports Bakiewicz and Linda Sankey Ed Drummond (1945-2019) 25 Youth Climbing Club Meet 16 The Woodlands for Health Kevin Kilroy reports Programme 26 The Intervarsity Climbing Linda Sankey reports Competition 2020 17 Family-friendly walks A report by Lauren Conlon Linda Sankey reports News Features 28 Access & Conservation Network launched A report by Helen Lawless 30 A trip to the High Tatras By Paul Griffin 32 Happy giving back Chris Avison reports on the Irish Nepalese Educational Trust’s 20th anniversary 34 Scottish Winter Meet 2020 A report by Aron Barry Sir Chris Bonington Features John McCune high on the Voie Petit route 36 The Three Peninsulas Mountain Hike 8 LYNAM LECTURE 2019 By Aidan Ennis 48 IRISH ASCENT OF VOIE PETIT 4 Irish Mountain Log Spring 2020
Newsdesk Staff & Board General enquirieS info@mountaineering.ie Staff Chief executive Officer Murrough McDonagh, murrough@mountaineering.ie administration Officer Siobhán Quinn, info@mountaineering.ie Hillwalking Development Officer Ruth Whelan, ruth@mountaineering.ie access & Conservation Officer Helen Lawless, helen@mountaineering.ie Women in Sport Coordinator Ania Bakiewicz, ania@mountaineering.ie training Officer Jane Carney, jane@mountaineering.ie training & Membership Support administrator Laura Griffin, laura@mountaineering.ie Climbing Officer Damien O’Sullivan, damien@mountaineering.ie Youth Development Officer for The Matterhorn northern ireland Kevin Kilroy, kevin@mountaineering.ie Get irelanD WalkinG initiative Programme Manager, Get ireland Walking Alpinism now ‘cultural heritage’ Jason King, jason@getirelandwalking.ie UNESCO recognises alpinism as a Cultural Heritage of Humanity Communications & administrative Officer, Get ireland Walking Alpinism is not only a physical activity ■ of challenging one’s own capabilities Linda Sankey, info@getirelandwalking.ie requiring athletic qualities and technical and expertise while negotiating MOuntaineerinG irelanD expertise; it is also an exploration of natural, non-artificial obstacles; BOarD OffiCerS fascinating landscapes and a quest for ■ of evaluating and assuming measured President personal achievements. These risks; Paul Kellagher exceptional characteristics, plus its ■ of self-managing, self-responsibility president@mountaineering.ie historical and cultural backgrounds, make and solidarity; Chairperson alpinism worth identifying as an ■ of respecting other people and natural Paul Barron ‘Intangible Cultural Heritage’ of sites. chairperson@mountaineering.ie outstanding and universal human and The benefits of the inclusion of BOarD MeMBerS social value. alpinism on UNESCO’s Intangible Cultural Imelda Buckley In 2009, efforts were begun to get Heritage (ICH) list include: (Chair of Finance, Audit & Risk Committee) alpinism included on the UNESCO imelda-board@mountaineering.ie Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity ■ the existence of a precise description Helen Donoghue list. UIAA member federations were of alpinism’s characteristics, agreed (Chair of Access & Conservation Committee) invited to lobby their respective after many working sessions of the helen-board@mountaineering.ie governments to join the project. Three involved organisations, as an Trish Kane countries took the lead on this, France, internationally recognised reference; ■ recognising alpinism’s specific and trish-board@mountaineering.ie Switzerland and Italy, Colette Mahon supported by several outstanding values; colette-board@mountaineering.ie Michael Maunsell other Alpine countries ■ having an additional means of mike-board@mountaineering.ie and also UIAA, the promoting the activity and its values; Gráinne McLaughlin International Climbing ■ having a definition in place to avoid (Chair of Hillwalking Committee) and Mountaineering misuse of the term; grainne-board@mountaineering.ie Federation. ■ having a duly signed engagement of Clare O’Connor UNESCO finally decided at its General the concerned states to support the clare-board@mountaineering.ie Assembly in Bogota in December 2019 to promotion of the activity and to Dawson Stelfox Photograph: Pascal Gertschen include alpinism on the Representative preserve responsible freedom of (Chair of Mountain Training Board Ireland) List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of practice and access to sites. dawson-board@mountaineering.ie Humanity. Geoff Thomas The inclusion of alpinism on UNESCO’s Alpinism is now recognised by UNESCO (Chair of Climbing Committee) ICH list was welcomed by UIAA President, as the art... geoff-board@mountaineering.ie Fritz Vrijlandt, who said: “Alpinism ■ of climbing mountain summits and deserves this recognition for its unique faces by one’s own physical, technical characteristics and its deep historical and intellectual strengths; and cultural significance” ■ Spring 2020 Irish Mountain Log 5
NEWSL0G Be ‘AdventureSmart’! Welsh outdoor safety campaign goes UK- and Ireland-wide AdventureSmart prompts many people who explore the people to ask three questions UK. Mountaineering Ireland is before they set off on a walk, delighted to be extending this hike or climb: campaign to the island of ■ Do I have the right gEar? Ireland. ■ Do I know what the Whatever the activity, being adventure-smart is about WEatHEr will be like? ■ Am I confident I have the considering a few simple things to help your day stay great, and KNOWlEdgE aNd SKIllS for the day? to ensure that you return safe and sound, looking forward to Make sure your mobile is charged... ******* your next adventure. but don’t rely on it for navigation and communication People enjoying the coast and Experts from leading safety countryside across Wales, and sporting organisations England and, now, the island of Ireland, are being have developed messages to provide the essential Crossword results encouraged to be ‘adventure- information needed for people smart’ with the launch of a the winners of our Christmas Crossword in IML 132 were Sheila O’Sullivan, to get outdoors, confident that Carrigaline, Co Cork, who won a pair of Scarpa terra gtX boots, and John new outdoor safety campaign, they have prepared for a great O'Brien, Lucan, Co Dublin, who won a deuter trail 30 backpack, prizes AdventureSmart.UK. day. So, always ask yourself: worth a total of €304 from our crossword sponsor, Basecamp. the Mountaineering Ireland and ■ Do I have the right gEar? solution to the crossword is shown below. Mountaineering Ireland will Mountain Training Board contact the winners to arrange the collection of their prizes. S E V N B Ireland have recently become ■ Do I know what the 1 2 3 4 5 C L I N T A R E T E partners of WEatHEr will be like? 6 7 ■ Am I confident I have the L L N L S L AdventureSmart.UK. The AdventureSmart I C E F A L L S P A KNOWlEdgE aNd SKIllS initiative began in Wales with 8 9 P N E Y for the day? funding from the Welsh S T O N E Y T O P government. Building on the A new website, established AdventureSmart www.adventuresmart.uk, now 10 11 12 R O F T Wales branding, a strong, linked to the Mountaineering 13 14 A G A D U N G F L Y eye-catching UK brand was Ireland website 15 16 17 18 N L O A A L then developed. It is hoped www.mountaineering.ie, that the campaign can be G A P O F D U N L O E provides all the information extended to include the island you need to answer these 19 E S F L Y R of Ireland. questions, including detailed The aim of the campaign is information for the to reduce the number of AdventureSmart regions. As a avoidable incidents that the new partner organisation, we rescue and emergency have joined forces to spread services have to deal with in the AdventureSmart messages the mountains each year, through the development far and wide across the island and promotion of a of Ireland. comprehensive set of safety messages. The campaign is an FINd OUt MOrE For more innovative approach to information, visit the website communicating safety to the www.adventuresmart.uk ■ 6 Irish Mountain Log Spring 2020
Covid-19: please take these precautions Mountaineering Ireland has the following advice for all members and affiliated clubs ■ Do not go in large groups, and practice Club events good social distancing throughout the Mountaineering Ireland advises that all of day. There is plenty of space on the its member clubs should observe the hills for everyone. guidelines issued by the HSE in the Republic of Ireland and the HSC Public ■ If car-pooling, do not car-pool with Health Agency in Northern Ireland. In people with whom you are not in particular: regular contact, and avoid converging as a group for breaks, for photos and By Murrough McDonagh ■ We encourage all attendees at on summits. ■ With schools closed and more people (CEO, Mountaineering Ireland) meetings or other events that are held to maintain good social going out individually or in small In the face of the threat that is posed to distancing practice and good groups, there is extra pressure for public health by the Covid-19 pandemic, personal, hand and respiratory parking space. To avoid congestion, Mountaineering Ireland is following the hygiene by following the HSE consider doing a walk around your advice being issued by the Government guidelines on local area or choose a less busy of Ireland as the situation develops. The www2.hse.ie/conditions/coronavirus location. /coronavirus.html or see ■ If you arrive at a car park that is full, National Governing Body recommends that all of its members and member www.bit.ly/coronaconditions. clubs do likewise. ■ If you have travelled from other please find alternative safe parking countries outside of the island of and never park in front of farm gates, At this time, the advice from the Ireland, please follow the guidance or in any position that will obstruct public health experts is that everyone under the HSE website section on the emergency services, farmers or should limit social contacts and that all www2.hse.ie/conditions/coronavirus other road users. indoor events catering for one hundred people or more and outdoor events, /advice-for-people-returning-from- ■ If you do need assistance from affected-areas.html or see Mountain Rescue, they will respond. where five hundred people or more are www.bit.ly/corona-return. Mountain Rescue teams are taking ■ If you have had contact with infected expected, should be cancelled until at least March 29th. extra precautions at this time to Mountaineering Ireland advises all people, please do not attend any protect their members and their events. families. members to follow this advice from the public health experts in their private ■ Anyone with flu-like symptoms ■ To help support the government’s lives and when participating in any should avoid the risk of spreading advice on limiting social contact in mountaineering activities, in particular their infection, whatever that cafés, restaurants, etc, if you’re limiting social contacts and observing infection may be, by staying at home meeting in such places either before and recovering. or after your activity, please ensure good hand and respiratory hygiene. At this time, anyone who is ■ For club events in Northern Ireland, that social distance is maintained symptomatic should self–isolate and please refer to the following (minimum two metres between contact their doctor by phone to guidelines for the HSC Public Health people). Agency: arrange to be tested for Covid-19. www.publichealth.hscni.net/news/ Mountaineering Ireland will be reviewing covid-19-coronavirus or see the evolving situation on a day-to-day www.bit.ly/coronanorthernireland. Postponed events basis and will provide updated advice, when it is available, on the website, In line with this advice, the following www.mountaineering.ie. events have been postponed by Advice when planning This is a time when we all need to be Mountaineering Ireland: to go out on the hills working together to reduce the threat ■ Youth Climbing Round 4 (scheduled ■ All clubs and members must take that this new pandemic poses to our responsibility for their own actions. relatives and friends, our communities, for March 18th, 2020) ■ If you are heading out for a walk, a our island and the world. ■ Spring Gathering 2020 (scheduled hike or a climb at this time, it is It appears that older people and people for March 27-29th, 2020) reasonable to suggest using familiar, with chronic diseases are more vulnerable ■ The Wildflowers of Ireland Lecture low-risk routes, as you do not want to to Covid-19’s more serious effects. We end up needing to call out the need to be aware of this when we are (scheduled for April 2nd, 2020) emergency services or be sent to socialising and, if we are symptomatic, to ■ Michael Fewer’s Lectures hospital with the current pressures self-isolate and to particularly avoid (scheduled for Dublin, May 12th, and on the health sector across the island contact with those who are more Waterford, May 19th, 2020). of Ireland. vulnerable ■ Spring 2020 Irish Mountain Log 7
NEWSLOG Rapt audience at the 2019 Lynam Lecture by Sir Chris Bonington in Dublin in December Chris Bonington: ‘Life and Times’ Sir Chris Bonington delivers the 2019 Lynam Lecture to a full house Lynam Lecture By Patrick O’Sullivan Sir Chris Bonington, the renowned British mountaineer, lecturer and author, delivered the 2019 Lynam Lecture to a packed auditorium in the Chartered Accountants Ireland lecture hall on Pearse Street, Dublin, on Thursday, December 18th, 2019. The Lynam Lecture was inaugurated in 2011 in the memory of Joss Lynam Chris Bonington with Joss lynam at the great Sugar loaf, Co Wicklow, in 2007 (1924-2011), one of Ireland’s best-known Photographs: Patrick O’Sullivan (Bonington delivering lecture) mountaineers, in recognition of his enormous achievements in hillwalking, magazine for more than 20 years. Joss climbing and mountaineering in Ireland continued as the Literary Editor of the and overseas over some 60 years. During magazine up to the time of his death. his lifetime, Joss initiated numerous Since it was inaugurated in 2011, the developments in these different areas Lynam Lecture has been delivered by of our sport and was an inspiration to leading national and international a number of generations of Irish mountaineers: 2011, Harish Kapadia; mountaineers. 2012, Dawson Stelfox; 2013, Stephen Joss Lynam’s achievements included Venables; 2014, Clare Sheridan; 2015, participating in many mountaineering Ines Papert; 2016, Paul Swail and John expeditions to the Greater Ranges and an outstanding voluntary contribution to McCune; 2017, Frank Nugent; 2018, the development of adventure sports in Paddy O’Leary. All of these have Ireland. He was known to many Irish and delivered outstanding lectures that have international walking enthusiasts for his reflected on the development of various many hillwalking guidebooks. He was also aspects of our sport and how it might the Editor of the Irish Mountain Log progress in coming years. 8 Irish Mountain Log Spring 2020
This year’s lecture was opened by Mike Maunsell, chair of the Lynam Lecture Working Group. He reminded those present that the intention of the Lynam Lectures was to commemorate a great Irish mountaineer by reflecting on developments in our sport, in Ireland and abroad. He then introduced Sir Chris Bonington as the well-deserving recipient of the 2019 Lynam Medal. Sir Chris delivered an excellent and sometimes emotional lecture to a rapt audience of about 400 Mountaineering Bonington, right, celebrates receiving his Lynam Lecture Medal award at the end of his talk Ireland members from all around the country. His ‘Life and Times’ lecture took After school, he did his National Service, mountaineers he had climbed with, and us through his more than sixty years of all the time pursuing his fascination with of the significant climbs and first ascents climbing the world’s highest mountains. climbing and mountains, mostly in North which he had undertaken around the He reflected on his successes and Wales. After a couple of years’ basic world. The Freney Pillar, the North Face failures but also on the losses he had training he was commissioned in the of the Eiger, the Walker Spur, Torres del suffered in that time, both in his personal Tank Regiment, based in Germany, where Paine, Annapurna 2, Nuptse, Annapurna life and in his professional life as a he spent another two years. South Face, Everest SW Face, K2, Ogre, mountaineer. Shivling, Sepu Kangri... the list is endless. Chris wears his heart on his sleeve, First visit to the Alps All that, while still climbing at the highest and there were times when he was In 1957, inexperienced as Chris was on grades at home and continuing to put up clearly quite emotional talking about snow and ice, Hamish MacInnes invited numerous first ascents on crags all over some of the losses he had experienced. him to join him in an attempt at the first England, Scotland and Wales. He even put Sir Chris had met Joss on several British ascent of the North Face of the up a long new route at Fair Head with occasions at various meetings over the Eiger. The weather was against them, Nick Estcourt. years, around Europe, at UIAA meetings but that seems to have been the start and others, and including at BMC of repeated visits to the Alps to attempt Turning professional meetings in the UK. Chris reflected early repeats of some of what are now Chris was one of the first to make a warmly on his meetings with Joss. classic routes. Failures in bad weather living from his climbing, to become a Chris was born in 1934 in Hampstead were followed by successes. In 1958, he professional mountaineer, not by guiding in north London and was brought up climbed the Bonatti Pillar on the Dru with but by receiving an income mainly from there. It was only in his teenage years, MacInnes, but he also teamed up with, lecturing and writing about his climbs, on his way by train to Holyhead to spend amongst others, Don Whillans for the first but also by getting sponsorship from time in Dublin with his grandfather, that time. The following year, he led a climb on companies such as Berghaus. He felt he he became aware of mountains as he the North Face of the Cima Grande. was very much in charge of his own was passing through North Wales. He In fact, after his introductory remarks, world when he was mountaineering. was struck by the challenges they Sir Chris’s rapid account of his more than He married Wendy and started living presented, stark as the Carneddau sixty years of mountaineering became a in the Lake District, where he still lives. ▲ appeared from that side. Chris’s ‘Who’s who’ of mainly British He reflected that when you are exploratory instincts were aroused. He found the Wicklow hills more friendly and he told us that the Little Sugar Loaf had been his first mountain climb. Photographs: Patrick O’Sullivan (Bonington with medal) After Christmas 1950, Chris hitched up to North Wales with a school friend and they attempted to climb Snowdon on the Miners Track, only to be hit by an avalanche off Crib Goch. He wasn’t injured, but it was the most exciting day he had ever had. Back in London, he started climbing at Harrison’s Rocks. Then it was back to North Wales, where he attempted various routes that demonstrated his natural ability on rock, even in those early Chris Bonington relaxing days. A winter trip to Scotland when he in the Himalayas, with was eighteen saw him putting up three Everest, which he summited new routes when he teamed up with in 1985, and the Khumbu Hamish MacInnes. Glacier behind him Spring 2020 Irish Mountain Log 9
NEWSLOG engaged in a dangerous sport, such as mountaineering, there will be losses along the way. He has lost many good friends on the various climbs he has been involved in. He mentioned Ian Clough, Mick Burke, Joe Tasker, Pete Boardman, Nick Estcourt and the many others. He was quite emotional at times, talking about those deaths, but it was clear that he saw them as to be expected, given the seriousness of the routes he was tackling. He felt you still had to go on. He also talked about his personal ruairí Shortt (grandson of Joss lynam) presents Sir Chris Bonington with the 2019 lynam lecture losses: his son, and his wife Wendy, who Medal (with Mike Maunsell on left and Mountaineering Ireland President Paul Kellagher on right). died of motor neurone disease in 2014. Chris finally succeeded in climbing change as you get older but you can still Who better to remind us of that than Sir Everest (8,848m) when he summited feel a sense of adventure in the things Chris Bonington, given the adventurous with a Norwegian expedition in 1985. you do, whatever age you are. He life he has clearly led, as he recounted in However, he felt Shivling (6,543m) in encouraged us all to do the most with his truly inspiring lecture. northern India had been his best climb what we have at the time. After the talk, Sir Chris answered a because they had done it Alpine-style, He felt we are too risk adverse now. wide range of questions from the as opposed to the big expedition siege We need to be sensible, but adventure is audience. He was then thanked by the tactics he had used on many of the an important part of our lives. We should Mountaineering Ireland President, Paul bigger mountains he had tackled. all love the outdoors at whatever level Kellagher, for a truly outstanding talk, He talked about the joy of exploring we are at. He spoke about the joy that and presented with the 2019 Lynam and the need to keep a sense of he and his new wife, Loreto, get from Medal by Ruairí Shortt, Joss’s grandson adventure in life. The objectives may spending time together in the outdoors. ■ History articles sought articles sought for Journal of the Irish Mountaineering and Exploration Historical Society Mountaineering Ireland continues to provide the book service previously operated by Joss In 2001, Mountaineering Ireland established Lynam. We can supply you with guidebooks the Irish Mountaineering and Exploration and maps to almost any part of the world. Historical Society in order to further For the walker, there is a large collection of interest in the rich history of Irish Cicerone guides and books, or the wider mountaineering and exploration. The selection of books and guides distributed by Cordee which also includes many climbing guides. Books reviewed in the society published two issues of the journal Irish Mountain Log can usually be in 2002 and 2005, both edited by the late purchased through Joss Books with a Joss Lynam. They were well received and members’ discount. To place an order, contained much information of historical ring the Mountaineering Ireland office importance in the field. The journal was on (01) 6251115 or email successfully revived in 2012 with Volume 3, info@mountaineering.ie. and Volume 4 followed in 2015. Plans are now afoot to produce a fifth volume next year, 2021. Next year will be the fiftieth anniversary of the national governing body for the sport of mountaineering on the island of Ireland, now Mountaineering Ireland. As with the previous issues, the journal will include fresh research as well as articles published elsewhere in order that, in Photograph: Patrick O’Sullivan Joss’s words, “the Journal of the Irish Mountaineering and Exploration Historical Society will be recognised as the best source of information on our history [and] that all important articles be found in it.” We are interested in receiving relevant material for the Please note: a substantial discount is available forthcoming issue. If you are interested in writing an article on an for Mountaineering Ireland members on book appropriate subject (or already have done so, even if already purchases ordered directly from Cicerone published elsewhere), please contact the editor, Declan O’Keeffe, at caldeno@gmail.com. Copies of issues 1-4 of the journal can be purchased from Mountaineering Ireland and through its website ■ 10 Irish Mountain Log Spring 2020
Declan Byrne, Project Manager of the SUAS Pilot Project, delivers a presentation at Glenasmole Community Centre The future of Dublin Mountains hill farming Wicklow Uplands Council reports on an information event held in Glenasmole, Co Dublin, in February An information event entitled that healthy upland habitats Parks and Wildlife Service, who farming practices in the ‘The Future of Hill Farming in play a vital role in providing pointed out many of the plant Wicklow and Dublin uplands. the Dublin Mountains’ was good quality water sources, species in the biodiversity of Speaking after the event, held in early February in the preventing flooding and the uplands and gave an Declan Byrne, Project picturesque south County sequestering carbon. overview of the impact recent Manager of the SUAS Pilot Dublin townland of After the presentations and fires have had on the area’s Project, said: “The Glenasmole. Sixty people an open discussion with sensitive ecology. importance of our uplands attended the event, which attendees, many of the group The attendees included and the preservation of its was jointly organised by the travelled to a nearby hill to farmers, participants in the healthy, thriving biodiversity SUAS Pilot Project and observe first-hand the many SUAS Project and really cannot be Teagasc, to explore a range of ecological factors affecting representatives from the underestimated. The work of topics related to hill-farming in upland habitats. Surrounded National Parks and Wildlife the SUAS Project is to the Dublin and Wicklow by stunning mountain views Service, with one group from discover and promote the Mountains and the issues and overlooking the Northern Ireland’s upland best approaches and affecting hill-farming Glenasmole valley and the partnership groups also methods for land communities throughout 19th-century Bohernabreena travelling down for it. management, to create a Ireland. Reservoir, the group Launched in 2018, the better understanding of Guest speakers from the assembled for a short guided Sustainable Upland Agri- appropriate grazing and to National Parks and Wildlife walk within the Wicklow Environmental Scheme (SUAS) better support hill-farming Service, Teagasc and the Mountains National Park. is a locally-led pilot project communities.” SUAS Project gave presentations on the Leading the large group was designed to address the ■ For further information on Enda Mullen, the Divisional decline in hill-farming activities the SUaS Pilot Project go to www.wicklowuplands.ie ■ ecological importance of our Ecologist for the National and to promote sustainable uplands, sustainable and profitable hill-farming practices and the appropriate land and vegetation management approaches for upland terrain. There was much discussion about optimum grazing periods, flock sizes and breeds, and how best to Photographs: Wicklow Uplands Council create a sustainable upland farming model using a blend of modern and traditional farming techniques. The general consensus was that the role of upland farmers is of national importance in Ireland Enda Mullen (National Parks and contributes widely to the and Wildlife Service) speaking greater public good and on the uplands above enhances sustainable rural Glenasmole valley, Co Dublin communities. It was agreed Spring 2020 Irish Mountain Log 11
NEWSL0G Donie Anderson leads a walk in the Castlekelly area of Glenasmole, Co Dublin Upland farm walks in Dublin Dublin Mountains Partnership is organising guided walks to connect people with the farm landscape in the Dublin foothills. The Dublin Mountains Partnership reports At the beginning of March, including pointing out the Everyone who has taken ■ You can follow the the Dublin Mountains Fionn Mac Cumhaill Stone. part so far has really enjoyed Dublin Mountains Partnership (DMP) started He also explains what the the walk, which has given Partnership on Facebook to organising weekly walks place-names in the area them a greater find out more about the through upland farmland in mean. understanding of the life of organisation and the walks south Dublin to help people After the walk, participants a sheep farmer as well as they are organising. connect with farming and are able to warm up in the demonstrating the beauty ■ Please note: walks may nature, and also to try to Glenasmole Community of the area. be cancelled due to the encourage the use of the Centre. Covid-19 crisis ■ walking trails in the area so that they might become sustainable. The walks are led by Glenasmole farmer Donie Anderson with the assistance of his trusty sheepdog Jess. They give participants an insight into upland sheep farming as they walk along an historical trail in the Castlekelly area. The walks will be organised weekly and are intended to Photographs: Helen Lawless connect walkers more closely with the area in which they are walking. In addition to talking about sheep farming and demonstrating Jess’s skills in herding sheep and geese, Donie also talks about Donie Anderson’s trusty sheepdog Jess the history of the area, 12 Irish Mountain Log Spring 2020
Tracking the E8 from Dursey to Dublin Marian Wallis completes an inspection of the Irish leg of the long-distance route from Cork to Istanbul The E8 is a European long- route can be divided into the distance route that now runs following stages: from Dursey Island, Co Cork, It follows the Beara Way to Istanbul in Turkey. It is the from Dursey Island to Allihies task of the European via the Garnish Loop; it then Ramblers Association (ERA) goes from Allihies on to to track the definite version Castletownbere, and from of this walk. there to Adrigole, ending in The E8 in Ireland is a Glengarriff. wonderful route that takes From Glengarriff, I followed you from the wild Atlantic the Slí Gaeltacht Mhúscraí to coast to the Irish Sea. The join the Duhallow Way near landscape tells its own story Millstreet, Co Cork. of myths, history, culture, Heading east on the language, traditions, music Duhallow Way, I passed and commerce. through Bweeng, and then As the representative of followed the Blackwater Way Mountaineering Ireland’s through Mallow, Killavullen, Hillwalking Committee on Fermoy and Kilworth, to meet the European Ramblers the Avondhu Way shortly Association’s E8 Working after Arraglin. It was here also Group, I found myself leaving that I finally left County Cork home at 5.30am on a wet, after a traverse of 300 stormy, October morning to kilometres, before joining the drive to Dursey to begin the Avondhu Way. Marian Wallis in Marlay Park, dublin, on completing the Irish section trek to Marlay Park, Dublin. Crossing the of the E8 route. the final leg follows the Wicklow Way from Clonegal, 540 kilometres and 17,815m Knockmealdowns, I wound in Co Carlow, to Marlay Park in rathfarnham, dublin. of ascent later, with help from and out of counties Tipperary family and four friends from and Waterford before finally the Ballyhoura Bears, I arriving beside Bay Lough, a Tipperary. Irish leg of the E8. Photographs: Marian Wallis Collection (herself in Marlay Park), Hywel Williams (Bay Lough) arrived in Marlay Park. The corrie lake near Clogheen, Co From here, the East The E8 in Ireland extends Munster Way took me to over seven counties and nine Carrick-on-Suir, Co Waterford. mountain ranges, descends Leaving Carrick, the South into numerous valleys, Leinster Way led me through crosses rivers and winds Mullinavat, Inistioge, through forests to finally pass Graiguenamanagh and Borris, under the M50 and arrive to end in Kildavin, Co Carlow. triumphantly in Dublin. The Then it was 4.3km along a minor road to Clonegal, Co walk reveals the many faces Carlow, where I joined the of Ireland and yet is Wicklow Way. testimony to the I then followed the Wicklow timelessness of our Way to Dublin’s Marlay Park, landscape and the richness where I ended my hike of the of our history ■ aUtHOr: Marian Wallis is a member of Mountaineering Ireland’s Hillwalking Committee and represents Mountaineering Ireland on the European ramblers association’s E8 Working group. Marian has now tracked the entire 540 kilometres of the Irish leg of the E8 European long-distance path from Dursey Island in Cork to Marlay Park Bay lough, a corrie lake near Clogheen, Co tipperary in Dublin. Spring 2020 Irish Mountain Log 13
New members of staff Mountaineering Ireland recently appointed a new Women in Sport Coordinator, Ania Bakiewicz Ania Bakiewicz Women in Sport Coordinator Ania transitioned to working where she enjoys walking in a coffee shop, rising to and rock climbing in every management level. season. She especially In 2013, she decided to enjoyed the winter get involved in outdoor mountaineering and ice education, initially at Bray climbing trip. Institute of Further In January 2020, she Education and then on the joined Mountaineering Outdoor Instructor Ireland as the Women in Development Programme in Sport Coordinator. Her role Tollymore National Outdoor is to foster greater Centre. During that time, she involvement of women in explored the Mourne, mountaineering as self- Donegal, Kerry and Wicklow sufficient hillwalkers, mountains. Ania qualified as well-trained climbers and a mountain leader, kayaking coaches. coach and an indoor and She wants to support outdoor climbing instructor. women to become more She particularly fell in love involved in leadership roles with rock climbing. in their hillwalking and Since 2016, Ania has mountaineering clubs. She worked as an indoor wants them to be seen as climbing instructor in Dublin potential mountain leaders, Climbing Centre in Tallaght. club officers and board There, she worked with members. She intends to children and teenagers, encourage active delivering NICAS (National participation of women in Indoor Climbing Award mountaineering events Schemes) classes, and throughout Ireland. taught the fundamentals of Ania wants to promote climbing to adults. Mountaineering Ireland’s She still actively runs mission to women of all Ania Bakiewicz women’s coaching sessions ages, from all social and in Dublin Climbing Centre on Mountaineering Ireland’s new Poland dating from the economic backgrounds. She Thursday evenings, Women in Sport Coordinator, Neolithic period to the late particularly hopes to ensure overseeing the development Ania Bakiewicz, was born Middle Ages. that teenage girls continue of female climbers, many of near Szczecin, in Poland, on She came to Ireland in their participation in whom started to climb there the edge of the Drawa 2005 to work as an mountaineering into their under her supervision and National Park, where she archaeologist, and her work adult lives. Ania would also who have since progressed spent her childhood, brought her all over the like to support existing to being self-sufficient exploring the natural beauty island of Ireland and to a outdoor climbers. female mountaineers and of the forest and learning wide variety of sites, Ania also coaches children promote them as role about the flora and fauna. including Iron Age ring forts, from Mountaineering models to follow. Ania graduated with an MA burial sites and King John’s Ireland’s Climbing in archaeology from the Castle in Carlingford, Co Development Squad. CONtaCt You can contact Adam Mickiewicz University Louth. She became Ania spends all of her Ania Bakiewicz, in Poznan, Poland, and for immersed in Irish culture, holidays climbing or Mountaineering Ireland’s many years worked as a field mythology and traditional bouldering in Ireland and Women in Sport archaeologist in the music, and enjoyed Irish abroad. She has explored the Coordinator, at Cistercian Monastery in food and, of course, the Isle of Skye and Mont Blanc. ania@mountaineering.ie Bierzwnik, and in numerous Guinness. Ania loves going back home or phone her at other archaeological sites in With the economic crash, to the Tatra Mountains, +353 (0) 87 755 5908 ■ 14 Irish Mountain Log Spring 2020
Mountaineering Ireland recently appointed a new officer to get Ireland Walking, Linda Sankey Linda Sankey Communications & Administrative Officer, Get Ireland Walking she studied radio and television Linda enjoys walking as she production. Linda then spent ten years appreciates its accessibility. Her father working as a freelance television has a neurological disease and is production manager. Her TV credits dependent on a walking stick, yet he include No Frontiers, About the House, goes for walks daily. That level of Beyond the Hall Door, Garden Heaven tenacity is inspiring to Linda. The and various documentaries. Linda also self-care aspect to walking and the worked in event management, working opportunity to clear your mind appeals on Riverdance, as well as on various festivals and exhibitions. greatly to her. After starting a family, Linda realised Linda’s role in Get Ireland Walking that she wanted to change her career initially is to develop a communications path and took advantage of being at strategy, which will involve researching home to go back to college at night to all the existing communications outputs study communications, web design and to date and creating new objectives for development. She then decided to work the different communications channels. in the charity sector and worked there in One of the most important aspects of communications roles for several years. the role for Linda is capturing stories She loves visual inspiration and and sharing them. Be prepared to hear content, including graphic design, more from Get Ireland Walking! typography, branding and websites. Linda is never happier work-wise until Linda Sankey she is redrafting and reinvigorating CONtaCt You can contact content and resources. She recently Linda Sankey, Get Ireland Walking’s Linda Sankey joined the Get Ireland completed a certificate in digital Communications & Administrative Walking initiative in December 2019. She marketing to keep her skill-set up Officer, at info@getirelandwalking.ie is from Dublin and, after leaving school, to date. or phone her at (01) 625 1109 ■ Skills workshop 23-24 May 2020 laragh, county wicklow Scrambling Navigation Climbing To book: www.mountaineering.ie 00353 (0)1 625 1112
NEWSLOG The Woodlands for Health Programme Taking a walk in the woods makes you feel better! By Linda Sankey Kerry. This study was HSE mental health Participants reported that (Get Ireland Walking) completed by Kerry’s occupational therapists were provision of the bus was Community Walking present every week as walk fundamental to their ability to With the success of the Development Officer. The leaders and to support the access many of the walks as Woodlands for Health walking twelve-week walking series group. In addition, the most of the participants have programme in Wicklow and commenced in spring 2019 Community Walking no access to private transport. Dún Laoghaire Rathdown, Get and was held every Programme Facilitator joined A central meeting point and Ireland Walking coordinated Wednesday. The walks covered the walks at the start, middle time was agreed to the expansion of the a wide geographical spread of and end points of the convenience the participants. programme in 2019 with its locations across Kerry, programme to monitor delivery to Kerry, Wexford, encompassing woodland trails, programme progress. Feedback Laois, Sligo, Roscommon and including in Killarney National Participants: Limerick. Park and Kilaclohane Woods, Transport Woodlands for Health offers coastal walks and other To provide transport, Kerry Overall, the participant feedback a recovery-focused eco- walking routes, and generally Recreation & Sports was very positive and in favour therapy programme, which lasted one hour. Partnership partnered with of the group continuing. Below complements traditional Twenty-seven people in total Local Link Kerry (Transport are some of their comments: mental health treatment and participated in the walking Coordination Unit), who fosters the social inclusion of programme, with an average of coordinated the transport ● Walking in fresh air...relaxed.” people who have experienced thirteen participants per week. under their Social Inclusion ● “Exercise is key to good mental health difficulties. The The pilot group was a closed Transport Support stream. mental health.” concept of the programme is group. Participants were Local Link Kerry contracted a ● “Doing different walks in simple: taking a walk in a green informed of the programme local operator to provide different locations…going for space such as a local park or and invited to join it by their transport for the group to and a coffee afterwards.” woodland makes you feel local HSE Kerry Mental Health from the walking locations. ● “The variety of walks...and better. Services team. Under this agreement, 50% of their short duration. The The Kerry Recreation & The programme was the cost of the bus was best were the Coillte and Sports Partnership, with the facilitated by Kerry’s subsidised by Local Link Kerry national park walks.” support of the HSE Health Community Walking and 50% by Kerry Recreation ● “Meeting new Promotion Department and Development Officer and and Sports Partnership/Get people...having good the Institute of Technology, Coillte staff, who welcomed Ireland Walking. conversation…helping each Photographs: Get Ireland Walking Tralee, was instrumental in the group, introduced the The agreement to subsidise other.” developing a feasibility study Coillte woodlands to them and the transport facilitated a ● “I enjoyed spending time to pilot the programme in also led some of the walks. sustainable programme model. with friends and meeting 16 Irish Mountain Log Spring 2020
new people. I loved Health programme engage woodland area and being Participant spending time in nature people in the occupational part of a social group.” and looking at trees, etc.” benefits therapy concept of doing, ● To assess and monitor the “The atmosphere of being and becoming.” Kerry Recreation & ● “It benefited our clients so participant health and walking in the woods was Sports Partnership: physical fitness benefits great.” much, as they were able to ● “To witness the extensive ● associated with participating “Going for walks that you fully engage in meaningful collaborative efforts made in the programme, it is would otherwise not get activity in their local in implementing the to.” planned to link it with the communities.” ● Woodlands for Health ● “The occupation of walking “Walking in different local park runs that were programme, whereby all established in Kerry by Kerry locations...meeting others allowed the constructed programme partners and chatting while Recreation & Sports barriers between benefited holistically, was walking...feeling energised Partnership and the local volunteer groups ■ professionals and clients to very rewarding.” afterwards.” ● be broken down, as “Talking to others.” ● “Getting a chance to lead everybody was an equal 2020 programme Acknowledgments member of the walking This programme will be run in walks, and interacting with Our thanks to HSE mental health group. Social barriers were 2020 on a quarterly basis and others.” occupational therapists Caroline eliminated and people will encompass locally McCarthy and Catherine engaged on a truly accessed woodland walks. Fitzgerald; to Kerry Recreation & HSE occupational meaningful level through Transport will be available for Sports Partnership Coordinator therapists: the occupation of walking.” the less accessible woodland ● “It was hugely rewarding to ● “It was lovely to see people Córa Carrigg; to the Community areas, e.g. Lyracrumpane Mass Walking Programme Facilitator see the Woodlands for chatting and walking in a Rock Loop, Listowel, Co Kerry. askea Calnan, and to Coillte. Get active on family-friendly walks By Linda Sankey there are six national parks in Or maybe you could take a get lost. (Get Ireland Walking) the Republic and nine Areas of walk on one of the four existing You can also download the Outstanding Natural Beauty in blueways: see Playground GPS Ireland app, It can be hard to find the time Northern Ireland. You should www.bluewaysireland.org. which will guide you to the to catch up on life at the also check out your local parks: Blueways are stunning trails exact location of more than weekend. The weekend is short there are many hidden gems running on and alongside lakes, 650 outdoor playgrounds, and and may be taken up with that you may not be aware of, canals and rivers. you can combine the walk with cleaning the house and ‘admin.’ such as St Catherine’s Park in If you need some digital fun in a playground. I tend to Sadly, while we cannot give you Lucan on the Dublin/Kildare assistance to get organised, try bribe my children with a more time or any incentive to border, where you can walk some useful apps. promise to go to the do more active things at the along a glacial ridge and play The AllTrails app is a free app playground post-walk. weekend, we can suggest that ‘Spot the Highland cattle.’ Yes, that requires you to sign up If you fancy being more you prioritise your activities to you read that correctly! The and which will show you trails active, you can join a park run. make the most of your time fifteen cattle were introduced near your location. You can These are free, available in off: get out of the house and to improve the biodiversity of filter it for a more specific area. nearly every park across the go walking! Take your family the area. The trails are handily marked country and a good active start and take your dog! You will The website as easy, moderate or hard. The to the weekend. You can walk, need some suitable wet familywalksireland.com is a app allows you to download jog or run! See www.parkrun.ie. weather clothes, of course, just handy database for buggy and offline maps. The walks are Ultimately, at the weekends, in case, but try to leave the family friendly walks. You could tagged ‘kid friendly’ and ‘dogs it is worth remembering that, technology behind. also take a woodland walk: on a leash,’ and there are useful while urban environments are Getting out walking doesn’t check out Coillte’s webpage reviews and tips for each walk. filled with stimulation, natural need to be expensive or www.coillte.ie/activity/walking. You can also turn the app into environments are more complicated. Think green and There are twelve forest parks a GPS tracker so that you don’t restorative ■ blue. I live in a very urban space and 260 recreational sites and have a great local park across the Republic, with car Photographs: Get Ireland Walking almost on my doorstep, which I parking and picnic areas. aUtHOr: linda Sankey is Communications use a lot during the week, Beaches are also fun, free Officer with Get Ireland Walking. get Ireland walking the dog. By the time places to walk with kids and Walking is an initiative of Sport Ireland, the weekend rolls around I dogs. It is impossible not to run supported by Healthy Ireland and hosted and delivered by Mountaineering Ireland. need something spectacular up and down a sand dune and like a beach or a big open not enjoy it! You could also FINd OUt MOrE: To find out more about Get Ireland Walking, visit the website space to give my soul a lift. walk beside a waterway: see www.getirelandwalking.ie, contact us on Choose what works for you www.waterwaysireland.org/ (01) 625 1109 or email Linda Sankey at and your family. Don’t forget things-to-do/walking. info@getirelandwalking.ie. Spring 2020 Irish Mountain Log 17
NEWSL0G Walkers on the dingle Way near Slea Head on the dingle peninsula, Co Kerry Dingle Walking Festival 2020 By Ethna Garvey these should be at their best regular hillwalkers. It is also Head area. this coming May, when the planned to incorporate a We look forward to Dingle Hillwalking Club festival will take full advantage Mindfulness Walk, a welcoming many old and new (Cumann Sléibhteoireachta of this idyllic environment. Biodiversity Walk and a friends to our town in May Chorca Dhuibhne) is There is a wide variety of Historical Walk into the 2020. organising this year’s Dingle accommodation and programme. Photographs: Ethna Garvey Collection (Slea Head area), Noel O’Neill/Lens Alive Photography (bottom photos) Walking Festival over the restaurants in Chorca We also hope to take full aUtHOr: Ethna garvey is the weekend of May 15-17th, 2020. Dhuibhne to suit different advantage of the many club secretary of dingle The Dingle peninsula in budgets and every taste. ancient monastic and Hillwalking Club. west Kerry is famous for its There will be easy, moderate archaeological sites on the FINd OUt MOrE: For the latest natural beauty and its and difficult walks. The difficult peninsula, with a combined festival information, check stunning sea, cliff and walks should prove a decent bus tour and walk to sites of www.dinglehillwalkingclub.com mountain scenery. Hopefully, challenge for experienced, interest around the Slea ■ 18 Irish Mountain Log Spring 2020
Women With Altitude to celebrate its 10th anniversary this year Falls Hotel, Ennistymon, Co Clare, May 15-17th, 2020 By Ruth Whelan Women With Altitude (WWA) is a Mountaineering Ireland initiative to encourage women to take on greater challenges in mountaineering, be they personal, technical or leadership challenges. Established in 2011, this initiative promotes and facilitates women’s participation by providing support with skills training and leadership development, inspirational role models and opportunities to network. To celebrate the tenth anniversary of this initiative, we are going to the Burren and will be based at the Falls Hotel, in Ennistymon, Co Clare. This year’s WWA event is all about building confidence on the hills and crags, where new participants and some familiar faces will come together to celebrate women in the mountains and continue to develop their skills and build confidence at all levels. As part of the weekend and to celebrate ten years of Women This is also a great opportunity for female members of clubs, With Altitude, we decided we would include a panel discussion who could potentially become great club walk leaders, to session. The panel will consist of women who have been increase their confidence. involved in Women With Altitude down through the years, be it The event offers an open and welcoming environment where as an instructor, a key speaker or an organiser. Such women are women will have the opportunity to develop their skills and gain role models for other women in our sport and have been knowledge from some of the country’s top female instructors, influential in progressing female participation in and to meet and socialise with like-minded females interested mountaineering. in hillwalking and climbing. Our panellists will include Helen Lawless, Orla Prendergast, This year’s programme is bigger and better than ever, with a Sinead Pollock and Ursula MacPherson. variety of courses to suit all levels of ability for both hillwalkers To guide the discussions and make sure all your pressing and climbers. questions are answered, Colette Mahon (Women With Altitude organising team member and instructor) will chair the ■ Bookings are now open! discussion. Go to www.mountaineering.ie/events ■ Photograph: Sorcha Dolan Spring 2020 Irish Mountain Log 19
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