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YAMANASHI
T r a v el Th a t C h a ng es Yo u
Travel guide & journal
YAMANASHI
T r a v e l T ha t Ch a ng es You
Yamanashi Green Zone
Certification System
The Green Zone certification mark is
the official symbol for safe and COVID-19
free travel in Yamanashi Prefecture. The
G mark is granted by the Yamanashi
prefectural government only to
establishments that have passed several
strict safety measure assessments,
certifying that the facilities have taken
the steps necessary to prevent the
spread of infectious diseases.
Travel guide & journal
Published by Yamanashi Prefectural Government
www.yamanashi-kankou.jp/english
Welcome to
Planned and produced by
ORIGINAL Inc./Time Out Tokyo
5–9–9–101 Hiroo, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo
Yamanashi
150–0012 Japan
Tel: +81(0)3 5792 5721
Email: info@timeout.jp
www.timeout.jp
Photos: Sannichi Printing and Yamanashi Prefectural Government
Edited July 2021. Home of Mount Fuji, Yamanashi Prefecture is easily
All information was correct at time of writing.
reachable from Tokyo but feels like a world away from the
bustle of the capital. Besides Japan’s most sacred mountain,
the nature-rich area hosts the picturesque Fuji Five Lakes, the
EDITORIAL ORIGINAL Inc.
sheltered highland resort of Kiyosato, solemn historical sites
Editor Designers President
Shiori Kotaki Zineb Bektachi Hiroyuki Fushitani such as the Erinji and Kuonji temples, a remarkable variety
Saiko Miyasato of hot springs, and some of the country’s best wineries.
English Editor Yuki Masuko (Snow Inc.)
Ili Saarinen Chikako Fukui (Snow Inc.)
In short, Yamanashi has everything for travelers
Writers Director seeking to discover a new side of Japan, uncover
Darren Gore Akiko Toya
Kit Kriewaldt
the true beauty of the country, and recover their
Florentyna Leow sense of wellbeing in the midst of nature.
While every effort has been made by the author(s) and the publisher to ensure that the
information contained in this guide is accurate and up to date as at the date of publication, they
accept no responsibility or liability in contract, tort negligence, breach of statutory duty or
otherwise for inconvenience, loss, damage, costs or expenses of any nature whatsoever incurred or
suffered by anyone as a result of any advice or information contained in this guide (except to the
extent that such liability may not be excluded or limited as a matter of law). Before traveling, it is
advisable to check all information locally, including without limitation, information on transport,
accommodation, shopping, and eating out. Anyone using this guide is entirely responsible for
their own health, well-being, and belonging, and care should always be exercised while traveling.
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval
system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying,
recording or otherwise, without prior permission from the copyright owners.
Map of Yamanashi How to get to...
Kofu Station
2 3 4 48 49 51 55 56
14
59 60 61 62 63 72 98 107
5 10 12 13 18 JR Chuo Line Limited Express
23
128 129 130 132
Shinjuku 1 hour 30 minutes Kofu
22 52 69 70 78
58
82 92 101 104 105 Chuo Express Bus
77 Shinjuku 2 hours 10 minutes
Kofu
15 27 29 68 71
113 117 120 121
83 86 89 102 125 Highway
Shinjuku about 2 hours
Kofu
126 127 139
Hokuto 74 Kawaguchiko Station
91 118 123
106 114 Tabayama
JR Limited Express
Azusa / Kaiji Fujikyuko Line
Yamanashi Kosuge
124 Shinjuku 58 minutes
Otsuki 50 minutes
Kawaguchiko
Kai
Nirasaki Koshu
Kofu 7 76 Chuo Express Bus
Minami-Alps Shinjuku 1 hour 52 minutes
Kawaguchiko
Showa 79 133
75 109 33
Chuo
11 19 Otsuki Highway
8
81 99
Uenohara Shinjuku about 1 hour 30 minutes
Kawaguchiko
40 100
9
Ichikawamisato Fuefuki Tsuru
135 Nishikatsura
16
Kobuchizawa Station
Fujikawa Fujikawaguchiko Doshi
67 Oshino
21 26
80 Narusawa
Yamanakako 53 57 84 JR Limited Express Azusa
30 31
116 Fujiyoshida Shinjuku 1 hour 52 minutes
Kobuchizawa
Hayakawa
Minobu 6 25 Highway
Shinjuku about 2 hours
Kobuchizawa
110 140
64 42
90
131
Nanbu 32
95
138 43 44 50
46 108
1 35 36 38
115
73 119 Haneda
47 111
41 65 66 85 Haneda 49 mins 1.5 hrs
Shinjuku Kofu
93 134 Airport
136 3 hrs 15 mins
96 137 Haneda Kofu
Airport
34 45 94 103
Narita Airport
37 39 54 Narita
87 97 17 20 24 28 88 112 122
Tokyo Narita 1.5 hrs 1.5 hrs
Shinjuku Kofu
Airport
Haneda Airport
Narita 3.5 hrs
Kofu
Airport
Discover Uncover Recover
4 5
Contents
10 64
Discover Uncover
11 Lake Motosuko 32 Ryuo Station 50 Tokutomi Soho Memorial Museum 65 Chozenji Temple
12 Sengataki Waterfall 33 Rokugo Seal Museum 51 Mishima Yukio Literary Museum 66 Enkoin Temple
13 Shosenkyo Gorge 33 Tahara Falls 52 Road Station Narusawa 66 Hosenji Temple
14 Kanazakura Shrine and 34 Narada Village 53 Lake Saiko 67 Tokoji Temple
Meotogi Shrine 34 Iwaibashi Bridge 54 Kawaguchi Asama Shrine 67 Nojoji Temple
15 Daigahara Shuku 35 Daimonhirin Park 55 Geijutsunomori Park 68 Kitaguchi Hongu Fuji Sengen Shrine
15 Tsuru Alps 36 Kanzo Yashiki 55 Yamanashi Prefectural Office 70 Kuonji Temple Main Gate
16 Mount Iwadono 38 Keiunkan Annex Building 71 Kuonji Temple Five-story Pagoda
18 Takeda Hachimangu Shrine 39 Akasawashuku 56 Lake Yamanakako Cycling Road 72 Heiwa Kannon
19 Site of Shinpu Castle 40 The Torii Gate in the Sky 58 Kai Choshizuka Tumulus 73 Erinji Temple
20 Umenoki Iseki Park 41 Saka Manju: A Local 59 Heidi’s Village 74 Yamataka Jindai Zakura
21 Shakado Museum of Jomon Culture Uenohara Specialty 60 Matosama 76 Sanbuichi Yusui Kan
21 Kinsei Iseki Park 41 Narusawa’s Lava Tree Molds 61 Road Station Tomizawa 76 Katsunuma
22 Hokuto Archaeological Museum 42 Kumano Shrine 61 Kai Terrace 77 Kofu Castle
22 Yahata-imo 43 Shimobe Onsen 62 Yamanashi Prefectural Museum of 78 Panorama-dai Lookout
23 Ryumon Gorge 44 Road Station Nanbu Archaeology 79 Lake Otomeko
24 Ōmura Art Museum 45 Yu no Oku Museum of Gold 62 Road Station Doshi 79 Mount Kitadake
26 Fireworks Museum Mining History 63 Shingen Zutsumi 80 Saruhashi Bridge
27 Kiyosato 46 Rokujizo Park 82 Dragon Park
28 Shindo Pass 48 Masuho Furusato Shizenjuku 82 Utsukushimori Lookout
29 Yume Kobo Washi Workshop 48 View of Mount Fuji at 83 Hanasaki Honjin (Hoshino House)
30 Amehata Suzuri no Sato Kenshoan Lake Motosuko 84 Wanitsuka no Sakura
31 Kobuchizawa 49 Mount Mitsutoge
6 7
Contents
107
Recover
86 Isawa Onsen Street 108 Ojiragawa Suspension Bridge 128 Mitama no Yu 142 Oyanagawa Gorge
87 Mount Mizugaki 108 Hikawa Keikoku Leisure Center 130 Tabayama Onsen Nomekoi-yu 143 Minobusan Ropeway
88 Mount Daibosatsu 110 Narusawa Ice Cave 131 Kosuge Village 144 The Teahouse in the Sky,
90 Doshi Valley 112 Lake Mizugakiko Visitor Center 132 Yamato Tenmokusan Onsen Misaka Pass
91 Nishijima Washi no Sato 113 Ojiragawa Gorge 133 Daibosatsu no Yu 145 Road Station Fujiyoshida
91 Road Station Kai Yamato 113 Ichinokama Waterfall 134 Daizenji Temple 146 Hokoji Temple
92 Nanbu Fire Festival 114 Takeda no Mori Forest Park 136 Yumura Onsen 147 Tokaichiba and Natsugari Springs
94 Kabuki Bunka Park 115 Aokigahara Forest 136 Yuki Park
95 Miyakoen 116 Minami-Alps Hot Spring Lodge 137 Kai Zenkoji Temple
96 Sakana Park 116 Taro Jiro Falls 138 Nishiura District
96 Tabayama and the Legends of 117 Mother’s White Waterfall 139 Sakaorinomiya Shrine
Nanatsuishi Shrine 118 Lake Shibireko 139 Yatate Cedar Tree
97 Kawamatagawa Valley 120 Doryu Falls 140 Fugaku Wind Cave
98 Lake Kawaguchiko 121 Nishizawa Gorge
100 Mt. Fuji Observation Deck 122 Oshino Hakkai
101 Shiki no Mori Oshino Park Koyo 124 Happiness Walk
Okada Photo Museum and Koike 124 Makiba Park
Kunio Etegami Museum
125 Taba Gorge
102 Lake Shojiko
126 Lake Yamanakako Hana no
103 Utsubuna Park
Miyako Park
104 Yamanashi Prefectural Science Center
127 Friend Park Mukawa
105 Yamanashi Prefectural Museum
127 Masutomi no Yu
106 Oboshi Park
8 9
001 Lake Motosuko
Lake Motosuko, 121 meters deep beneath its Pottery and tools dating back thousands of
lapis lazuli-hued surface, is the westernmost years have been retrieved from the bottom of
and deepest of the famous Fuji Five Lakes, the lake, indicating that villages once existed
Discover
and the ninth deepest lake in Japan. Part of here prior to Lake Motosuko being formed in
Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park, Motosuko the ninth century. That was when an eruption
is popular for a range of activities including of Mount Fuji transformed a larger, prehistoric
windsurfing, canoeing, and yachting. Its lake into three smaller pools of water.
something new
waters are among the clearest on Japan’s
main island Honshu and are especially Lake Motosuko’s bottom also figures in the
appreciated by divers and fishermen. ancient myth that a dragon resides down
there. Since the seventeenth century the
The lake’s surroundings make for great lake has been the site of rituals enacted
camping. Several campsites are situated around by Fuji-ko pilgrims who worship Mt.
the lake’s 11.8-kilometer perimeter, and Fuji as a deity, and these ceremonies may
Motosuko features prominently in campsite- occasionally still be glimpsed today.
based manga/anime/TV drama Yuru Camp.
Discoveries abound in Yamanashi, which except
for the surroundings of Mount Fuji is still very
much under the mass-tourism radar. Some of the
area’s true gems are notably secluded, making
them ideal destinations for private getaways.
This section points you to essential discoveries across
the region, from picturesque valleys and waterfalls
to hidden art museums and prehistoric ruins.
10 Discover Discover 11
003 Shosenkyo Gorge
002
Sengataki Waterfall
The Sengataki Waterfall is located at the foot Here are so many beauwtiful things to see
of the towering Kakuenpo rock formation along the river in this gorge and you can go at your own
in Shosenkyo Gorge. While Kakuenpo is the pace, seeing as much or as little as you like
symbol of the gorge, Sengataki is one of its
most popular attractions. Formed by erosion
across a fault line due to deformation in
the Earth’s crust, the waterfall is roughly 30
meters tall and marks one end of the gorge.
Shosenkyo Gorge is known as one of the Kakuen, who practiced there, the peak stands
Visitors can reach it via a one-and-a-half-
most beautiful gorges in Japan and counts about 180 meters high on the opposite side of
hour walk along Shosenkyo Gorge from the
among Yamanashi Prefecture’s most popular the gorge from the walking trail and serves as
Nagatoro Bridge or a five-minute downhill
destinations for nature tourism. The gorge is the symbol of the gorge. Opposite Kakuenpo
walk from the northern edge of the gorge.
part of the large Chichibu-Tama-Kai National is the Ishimon, a granite rock formation in the
Park, which spans Yamanashi, Saitama, and shape of a large gateway. The huge rock that
Fed by fresh mountain water, Sengataki
Nagano prefectures as well as the Tokyo forms the top of the gate is slightly separated
flows year-round. The flow is heaviest
metropolis. The gorge is filled with scenic from the rocks beneath it. Despite its seeming
in summer, but the scene is particularly
natural wonders that are simply breathtaking. instability, the Ishimon stands firm and is
beautiful in winter, when the falls are flanked
considered both a scenic and a spiritual place.
by snow-capped rocks and icicles, and in
Shosenkyo runs between granite mountains
autumn, when the surrounding maple trees
north of Kofu. The gorge has a roughly Beyond the Ishimon is the Sengataki Waterfall,
turn brilliant red and orange. On sunny
5-kilometer walking trail (about one and a half one of the most beautiful sites in Shosenkyo.
days, lucky visitors may catch a glimpse
hours’ walk) going from Nagatoro Bridge to The roughly 30-meter-tall waterfall looks
of a rainbow formed by the rushing water
the Sengataki Waterfall. The trail runs beside particularly appealing when flanked by snow
above the river.
a river, passing several natural rock formations and ice in winter or blanketed by red leaves
that resemble different shapes, including a in autumn. On a plateau above the waterfall
mushroom, a cannon, and even Mount Fuji. are several shops, cafes, and restaurants, along
The waterfall is the most impressive part of with the Shosenkyo Ropeway, which takes
Shosenkyo and is easy to see on its own The most impressive rock formation in the visitors to a lookout point with panoramic
gorge is its highest point: the peak known as views of the Southern Alps and Mt. Fuji
Kakuenpo. Named after the Buddhist monk when the weather is clear.
12 Discover Discover 13
004
Kanazakura Shrine and Meotogi Shrine
005
Daigahara Shuku
Kanazakura Shrine is also popular for its During the Edo period (1603-1868), the
traditional New Year’s Eve rituals and scenic ruling Tokugawa shogunate established the
views of the surrounding valley. There is gokaido, five official routes connecting Edo of the era, including a large stone lantern,
a lookout point 20 minutes’ walk up the (present-day Tokyo) with other provinces and hitching posts for horses, and ornate gates in
mountain, accessible via a paved trail. the imperial city of Kyoto. The government front of old wooden houses. At one end of the
also established post towns (shukuba) along town is the large Kitahara mansion, which
these roads, to ensure government officials once belonged to a government official.
and travelers had places to rest during
their journeys. One of the five routes was Like many post towns, Daigahara Shuku
the Koshu Kaido, which joined Edo with is small and easy to explore. There are
Shinano Province (present-day Nagano) via several old shops including the Shichiken
Kai Province (present-day Yamanashi). sake brewery and Kinseiken, a sweet shop
selling Japanese confectionery (wagashi).
Kanazakura Shrine Daigahara Shuku, now part of the Hakushucho Kinseiken invented Mizu Shingen Mochi,
neighborhood in the city of Hokuto, was a special kind of sweet made from sugar
Said to have been established roughly 2,000 the 40th of 44 post towns along the Koshu and water and sold only in summer. The
years ago, Kanazakura Shrine is one of the Kaido. As the small town has maintained its transparent dessert resembles a large water
oldest Shinto shrines in Yamanashi. It is Edo-period character, it feels almost like a droplet and uses mineral water from the
dedicated to the deity of Mount Kinpu and time capsule from the past. The old-fashioned pure mountain streams in the area. Every
the main shrine stands at the top of the Meotogi Shrine townhouses (machiya) lining the Koshu Kaido October, there is a large market held along
mountain, while a village shrine is on the road have been restored in the style of the the road featuring about 300 stalls, selling
Meotogi Shrine stands on Mount Kinpu, at
mountainside above the Shosenkyo Gorge. time and there are numerous other relics antiques, crafts, local produce, and more.
one end of the Shosenkyo Gorge. The shrine
The sacred cedar trees on either side of
006
grounds are filled with colorful blue azaleas
the 266-step staircase up to the shrine are
in spring and fiery red and orange maple
thought to be 700 to 800 years old. Between
the towering trees and sweeping views of
leaves in autumn. If it’s a hike with Fuji views
the valley below, the shrine is breathtaking.
The shrine is dedicated to fertility and
you’re after, this is the spot
Yamanashi is famous for its crystals and the
childbirth and is famous for its sacred horse
chestnut tree, which is behind the main
Tsuru Alps
shrine’s sacred treasure is a collection of large
sanctuary (honden). The tree is more than
crystal balls. The main sanctuary (honden), Stretching along the eastern side of the city routes to suit walkers of all abilities.
1,000 years old and is revered as a fusion of
which is behind the larger worship hall of Tsuru are around 8 kilometers of hills and The route passes by numerous scenic spots,
male and female symbols. It is possible to
(haiden), is not open to visitors. However, mountains, of elevations varying between including an observation deck with views
visit the tree for a small fee.
on the pillars of the main sanctuary, visible 500 and 650 meters. In 2017, a local hiking of Mount Fuji, a panoramic viewpoint,
from the side of the building, are two dragon club in the city finished creating a series the remains of a watchtower from the
sculptures, one ascending and the other of clearly marked hiking trails across the Warring States period (1467-1568), and
descending, clasping crystal balls in their tails. hills, and named them the Tsuru Alps. the Sumiyoshi Shinto shrine. In spring,
the section of trail near Rakuyama Park is
Beside the main sanctuary is a sacred cherry The entire length of the trail is slightly well worth visiting for its splendid cherry
tree from which the shrine gets its name. more than 10 kilometers and takes around 5 blossoms. During the rainy season, pale
The Kanazakura tree blooms from late April and a half hours to complete in its entirety, blue hydrangeas bloom throughout it.
to early May each year, attracting many making for an excellent day hike. En route,
visitors for its distinctive golden blossoms. there are eight trails leading off the hills, While black bear sightings are uncommon
The tree is said to have been planted by the meaning that walkers are able to truncate along the Tsuru Alps, hikers are advised to take
legendary warrior prince Yamato Takeru. their hike at their own discretion. The trails suitable precautions, such as wearing a bear
vary in difficulty, but there are generally bell or carrying bear spray on their person.
14 Discover Discover 15
007
Mount Iwadono
At 634 meters high, Mount Iwadono is the same height as the Tokyo
Skytree. Its northern and southern sides consist of precipitous cliffs. The
hike to the summit is reasonably short, with the occasional steep section,
and on clear days offers spectacular views of Mount Fuji along the way
and at the top.
At the flat, wide summit, visitors will find the ruins of a fortress used
during the Warring States period (1467-1568). The stronghold was built
as a base for border defense. It guarded the roads in the valley below,
served as an important smoke signaling station, and overall played a
critical strategic role in defending Kai Province (present-day Yamanashi)
from invaders. Before it came to host a fortress, Mt. Iwadono was the
site of Iwadono Gongen, a famous thirteenth-century Buddhist temple
complex.
Partway up the mountain is a building that resembles a medieval
Japanese mansion. This is the Fureai no Yakata, which exhibits some
impressive and beautiful photographs of Mt. Fuji and has toilet and
water facilities. Visitors may also pick up free pamphlets for the city of
Otsuki and a map of the Mt. Iwadono hiking trail.
16 Discover Discover 17008 Takeda Hachimangu Shrine
Beautiful, secluded shrine with deep
links to Yamanashi history 009 Site of Shinpu Castle
Believed to have been built in 822, the Takeda old cedar trees. A stone torii gate stands in Shinpu Castle once stood at the top of a small The moat and the embankment are some of
Hachimangu Shrine sits on a tree-lined front of a large wooden gate that frames the mountain at the southern tip of the Shichiriiwa the only parts of the castle that survive today.
mountainside overlooking the city of Nirasaki. stone staircase leading up to the shrine’s main Plateau, which extends from the border with However, the secluded spot surrounded by
The enshrined deities include Taketake buildings. The shrine is completely enveloped Nagano Prefecture to the center of Nirasaki trees is an ideal place for a peaceful walk. The
no Okami (also known as Takeda no Kimi by the surrounding forest, giving the grounds a for about 30 kilometers from north to south. wooden Shinpu Fujitake Shrine standing at
before he passed away), the god of war, and tranquil atmosphere. The secluded shrine is an The castle was built by the feudal lord Takeda the top of the stone staircase of about 250
Emperor Ojin (also known as Hachiman), the ideal place to explore gradually, appreciating Katsuyori, who ruled Kai Province (present- steps from the foot of the mountain is popular
protector deity of the warrior class and the the quiet of the forest. day Yamanashi) from 1573 to 1582. After the for its abundant cherry blossoms in spring.
nation of Japan. The sanctuary also served as death of his father, prominent lord Takeda Built long after the castle was destroyed, the
the guardian shrine of the Takeda clan, which There is a wooden stage for performances Shingen, the younger Takeda managed to Shinto shrine roughly marks the spot where
ruled Kai Province (present-day Yamanashi) of kagura, a Shinto ceremonial dance with a increase his territory, but he faced threats Shinpu Castle’s inner citadel once stood. The
from the 1100s until 1582. history dating back over 1,000 years. In mid- from powerful nearby warlords. Believing site is both a link to Japan’s feudal past and a
October every year, the shrine holds a festival this position would be easier to defend than reminder of nature’s capacity for renewal.
The connection dates back to Takeda where visitors can see kagura on the stage. his father’s traditional stronghold in Kofu,
Nobuyoshi, the founder of the clan, who had Behind the stage is another staircase leading to Takeda moved to Shinpu Castle in 1581,
his coming-of-age ceremony at the shrine and the worship hall (haiden). This building has a while it was still under construction.
changed his family name from Minamoto to view of the main shrine, which is not open to
Takeda. Takeda Shingen (1521-1573), one the public. Unfortunately, the castle stood for only 68
of the most prominent feudal lords of the days after Takeda moved there. In 1582,
province, and his father, Takeda Nobutora, Along a small pathway to the left of the Takeda was forced to set fire to the castle
rebuilt the main shrine (honden). worship hall is the Tametomo Shrine, a sub- and flee before an attack by the much larger
The building has been designated an shrine dedicated to the samurai Minamoto no army of Oda Nobunaga. Shortly afterwards,
Important Cultural Property. Tametomo (1139-1170). He was known for his he killed himself at Mount Tenmokuzan,
skill as an archer, and a large wooden statue of effectively ending the Takeda clan. Later,
The long, straight road (sando) up to the Tametomo stands inside the small shrine. Until during the Battle of Tensho Jingo, which was
shrine, part of a prefectural road, features the mid-1800s, this small shrine was crowded fought between the Tokugawa and Hojo clans,
a large wooden torii gate about 300 meters with people praying for cures for their diseases, Tokugawa Ieyasu, the future shogun of Japan,
from the main shrine grounds. On entering as they believed they could get rid of evil reused what remained of Shinpu Castle as
the grounds, visitors walk between towering spirits with the help of the brave Tametomo. his base. After that, the castle fell into ruin.
18 Discover Discover 19011 Shakado Museum
of Jomon Culture
The Shakado Museum of Jomon Culture
displays precious artifacts from the prehistoric
vessels to more
elaborate flat-
Jomon period (roughly 14,000-1,000 BCE). bottomed pieces
Set inside a sleekly contemporary building that able to stand freely.
emphasizes the antiquity of its contents, the These later relics
museum conjures up a sense of one of the very also reveal emergent
earliest chapters in Japanese history. decorative skills: using
cord marking (the
The majority of the museum’s exhibits were technique from which
retrieved locally, from the Kofu Basin. Work the “Jomon” name is
carried out in preparation for the construction derived), both human
of the Chuo Expressway, in the early 1980s, figures and snakes were
unexpectedly uncovered an abundance of added to utensils.
ruins and relics from not only the Jomon but
also the preceding Paleolithic period, as well Alongside these pots, the Shakado
as subsequent eras. This exciting find gained Museum displays remnants of human
national and global attention. effigies—a profusion of dismembered heads
and torsos—that the Jomon appear to have
010
The Jomon people contributed greatly to poured equal effort into creating. Though the
the development of pottery in Japan. Pots significance of many of these is unknown,
for transporting and heating their pre- rotund-bellied females suggest a reverence for
rice cultivation, hunter-gatherer diet are fertility. Also exhibited are tools, arrowheads
reconstructed using shattered remains. They for hunting, and even earrings, with all of this
Umenoki Iseki Park slowly evolve from crude, round-bottomed put into context using visual explanations.
Located on the southern foot of the
Yatsugatake Mountains, Umenoki Iseki Park
is a place where you can get a first-hand
experience of Japan’s prehistory. The park
marks the location of the Umenoki ruins, a
prehistoric archaeological site and a designated
settlement to the Yuzawa River, around
which traces of life have also been found.
The site itself gives great insight into how
people lived during the Jomon period, while
most of the artifacts unearthed at the site
012 Kinsei Iseki Park
Kinsei Iseki Park on the southern foot of the
Yatsugatake Mountains is a historical park
Large stones arranged in squares and circles
were found here and restored. Some of the
National Historic Site. Beginning in 2003, are on display at the visitor center and in the marking the location of the Kinsei ruins, a rocks are granite and are believed to have been
the area was surveyed and excavated and nearby Hokuto Archaeological Museum. prehistoric archaeological site and a designated transported from the remote Kamanashi River.
the remains of a settlement from the Middle National Historic Site. Excavated in 1980, the It is believed that the stone arrangement marks
Jomon period (3,520-2,470 BCE) were found. area consists of two ruins: first of a settlement a tomb and a site for religious rituals. One
The smaller and somewhat newer Kinsei Iseki from the Late and Final Jomon periods, which explanation for the site’s religious significance
Park archaeological site is also nearby. run from circa 2,470 BCE to circa 300 BCE, is that on the winter solstice, the setting sun
and a later site of a castle from the Warring aligns perfectly with Mount Kaikomagatake
The excavation turned up the foundations of States period (1467-1568). In the Jomon period when viewed from Kinsei Iseki Park, and
a circular village of up to 150 pit dwellings ruins, the foundations of around 40 dwellings people may have gathered here to pray at that
surrounding a central plaza. The dwellings are were discovered. time.
believed to have been dugout huts with conical
earthen roofs, with bark underneath and The reconstructed dwellings standing in the Most of the artifacts from the site are on
recessed earthen floors. The reconstructions of park today are small huts with earthen floors display at the nearby Hokuto Archaeological
these dwellings in the park today were built by and walls and thatched roofs, and are one Museum. Another, older Jomon-period
local volunteers. There is evidence of an early way of imagining how these dwellings may settlement was discovered more recently at
road down the mountain leading from the have looked. what is now Umenoki Iseki Park nearby.
20 Discover Discover 21013 Hokuto
Archaeological Museum
Hokuto Archaeological Museum is surrounded
by local history, being situated near the ruins
The pottery from both sites is uniquely
detailed, often decorated with faces or animals,
015
of Yato Castle. That fortress is believed to in contrast to pottery of the same period Ryumon Gorge
have been built in the twelfth century, but from other parts of the country. A highlight
the museum’s collection stretches back much of the museum’s collection is an unbroken The secluded Ryumon Gorge on
further through history. Covering items Jomon-period urn with carvings depicting the outskirts of Koshu is part of
found in what is now the city of Hokuto, the childbirth that was found at another site. the Hikawa Valley and the Hikawa
collection extends from Japan’s Paleolithic The exhibits also include a range of cooking River runs through it. Easily
period (beginning around 40,000 BCE) to equipment, as the Jomon period marked accessed from the cities of Enzan
the Warring States period (1467-1568). the beginning of basic food preparation and and Katsunuma, the valley is one
This includes the Jomon period, a part of storage in Japan. Analysis of the clay tools of the Koshu area’s most popular
Japanese prehistory that took place between suggests that the local diet consisted mainly nature spots and a breathtaking
circa 14,000 BCE and circa 300 BCE. of plants rather than meat or seafood. natural wonder of Yamanashi.
The earliest pottery in Japan is believed to There is also a collection of everyday items A walking trail of about 2.4
date from the Jomon period and the museum such as hair brushes and stone tools, along kilometers runs from a bright red
has an extensive collection of artifacts from with decorative jewelry including earrings steel bridge in the Yamatochotano
that time, including ceramic statues, figures, and hair clips. A model shows a possible area to the Tenmoku area. The
and pots. Most of the items on display come reconstruction of the Kinsei ruins as the site path goes through the forest, past
from two significant finds at the nearby would have looked in the Jomon period. rock formations including Hirado
Kinsei ruins, excavated in 1980, and the more Featuring a captivating variety of exhibits, the no Ishimon, a formation in the
recently discovered Umenoki ruins, both sites museum gives unique insight into the way shape of a gate that frames the
of Jomon settlements and burial grounds. local people lived thousands of years ago. trees behind it, and Ochiai Mitsu
no Taki, a waterfall naturally
014
divided into three tiers.
The soothing rush of the river
accompanies visitors all along
Yahata-imo
the hike. In autumn, the gorge
is filled with fiery red leaves; the
best time to catch them is from
The Yahata-imo is a variety of white-skinned mid-October to mid-November.
taro, a starchy vegetable similar to the yam, The trail ends around Seiunji
that is literally rooted in the culture and Temple. Those who need a break
history of the city of Kai. Its superior taste and after the walk can visit the nearby
texture, smoother and more glutinous than Tenmokusan Onsen hot spring.
taro grown elsewhere, make it a foodstuff
prized by the chefs of upscale ryotei (Japanese
haute cuisine) restaurants in Tokyo and Kyoto.
the cultivation of the vegetable is a family
Named for the Yahata district in which tradition stretching back many generations.
it is grown, the Yahata-imo’s exceptional The Yahata-imo is harvested from late
quality derives from the fact that the soil in September through October, and the difficulty
this area benefits from good drainage. This of cultivating it further adds to its scarcity.
is the result of centuries of repeated heavy As repeatedly growing it in the same patch
flooding along the Kamanashi River, tangibly of land is damaging to soil, crops must be
demonstrating that nature possesses both grown in alternating fields each year. Take the
benevolent and destructive sides. Only taro opportunity to enjoy this earthy and healthy
grown in the Yahata area can be designated vegetable—rich in fiber, potassium, and
and sold as Yahata-imo, and for some farmers manganese while low in fat—on home ground.
22 Discover Discover 23The story behind the collection makes
it unique and interesting – plus how
many art galleries have their
own bathhouse and soba restaurant?
016 Ōmura Art Museum
Ōmura Art Museum was opened as a private and ceramics, mostly by Japanese artists. There 1999), Tamako Kataoka (1905-2008), and Shoen
art museum in 2007 by Professor Satoshi is a room on the second floor dedicated to the Uemura (1875-1949). There is also a room
Ōmura and was donated to the city of Nirasaki work of twentieth-century artist Shintaro Suzuki dedicated to Ōmura’s life and scientific career.
in 2008. Born in Nirasaki in 1935, Ōmura is a (1895-1989), one of Ōmura’s favorite painters. The Visitors can see his childhood skiing medals, his
prominent biochemist and joint winner of the second floor also features an indoor observation Nobel Prize, and even a model of an avermectin
2015 Nobel Prize in Physiology or Medicine deck filled with earthenware by artists who were molecule.
for the development of the anti-parasitic drugs central to the Mingei (folk crafts) movement,
avermectin and ivermectin. A devotee of art from including Tatsuzo Shimaoka (1919-2007), Bernard Ōmura still lives nearby and is a regular visitor
a young age and, thanks to his patent money, an Leach (1887-1979), and Shoji Hamada (1894- to the museum, which feels like a true hidden
avid collector for much of his life, Ōmura founded 1978). The room is designed for relaxing while gem. The Ōmura Art Museum also has its
the museum to ensure that his collection could be enjoying the panoramic views of Nirasaki, the own hot-spring bath (onsen) and soba noodle
shared with as many people as possible. Yatsugatake Mountains, and Mount Fuji. restaurant, both located across the road from the
museum. Reflecting Ōmura’s belief that art should
The museum features a range of more than On the first floor is a room showcasing art by be accessible to all, the bathhouse has rotating
2,000 artworks including paintings, sculptures, female artists including Setsuko Migishi (1905- exhibitions for visitors to enjoy.
24 Discover Discover 25017 Fireworks Museum
The whole town is like a fairytale
location hidden in the mountains,
with unexpected specialties – like
a curry restaurant and
a German-style mountain lodge.
018
Kiyosato
Located in the Kiyosato Highlands at
the southern foot of the Yatsugatake
Mountains that mark the border between
Yamanashi Prefecture and Nagano
Prefecture, the resort town of Kiyosato is
popular for its old-fashioned charm and
beautiful views. Today, it is perhaps most
famous for the Seisen Ryo Farm, with
its creamy soft serve ice cream, set up by
Anglican missionary Paul Rusch in 1938.
Kiyosato is filled with quaint attractions,
beginning with Kiyosato Station, which was
first opened in 1933. The current station
building was added in 1976 and looks
striking with its sharp modernist angles
and brilliant white color scheme. Served by
the Koumi Line, which connects northern
Yamanashi to Nagano, it is 1,276 meters
above sea level, making it the second highest
train station on the entire JR network.
The town of Ichikawamisato has a longstanding pieces and other colorful objects, show how Outside the station is a preserved steam
association with fireworks. The spectacular the event gradually developed into its present train that ran on the Koumi Line until
Shinmei Hanabi Taikai, one of the greatest format, in which around 20,000 fireworks are 1972. The wooden tourist information
firework displays in Yamanashi, is held sequenced to tell a story through light, color, center offers a variety of transport options
annually on the Fuefuki River. Further back in and sound. for seeing the town. Visitors can rent
history, fireworks were a folk art emblematic electric bicycles or get a two-hour tour
of the town and its people. At the Fireworks Other exhibits demonstrate the workings of the of Kiyosato via a motorized rickshaw or
Museum, the story of this deep connection is combustible hanabitama (“firework balls”) used tuk tuk. There is also a bus that leaves
told through a fascinating collection of artifacts in traditional fireworks, while scale models from the front of the station and travels
and archive materials. show how the largest hanabitama could weigh to the best picnic spots around the area.
as much as an adult human. Modern firework
In this region, fireworks evolved out of the technology is covered too, while a video corner In keeping with the fairytale surroundings
noroshi beacons used on the battlefield in the gives an action replay of the most recent of the area, the town is filled with
time of the famous warlord Takeda Shingen Shinmei Hanabi Taikai. European-style buildings, many of which
(1521-1573). Local people learned to make are guesthouses, hotels, and restaurants.
their own fireworks for celebration and There are also art galleries, including
entertainment, with materials from the area’s the Kiyosato Museum of Photographic
thriving washi (traditional Japanese paper) Arts and the Ehon Museum Kiyosato,
industry being key to this. and plenty of outdoor activities such as
The Shinmei Hanabi Taikai, in fact, has its mountain climbing, hiking, golf, tennis,
roots in locals releasing masses of fireworks and skiing. Kiyosato is a hidden gem that
to commemorate the passing of Jinzaemon, is the perfect place to relax and enjoy
the man who introduced washi-making to the the bountiful nature of Yamanashi.
region. Promotional posters lining the walls
of the museum, together with festive costume
26 Discover Discover 27Learning how to make traditional paper
020
is a wonderful experience
Yume Kobo
Washi Workshop
At this charming little atelier, opened in 2020, the craft with present and future generations
you are invited to experience the wonder of children and adults. Two artisans staff the
and satisfaction of learning to make washi, atelier, dividing their time between honing
traditional Japanese paper. their skills, creating new products, and leading
workshops.
The Ichikawadaimon district has long been
associated with washi, and into the twenty-first The simplest of classes involves making three
century continues to produce this delicately postcards to take home and is suitable for ages
textured, multi-purpose paper in large from pre-elementary school through to adults.
quantities. The technique is said to have been In just ten minutes you will learn how to blend
introduced to this area in the ninth century, together washi ingredients and water, then
with local residents eagerly developing washi scoop out the resulting mixture into a wooden
into one of their main industries. frame ready to dry (the drying process takes 40
minutes).
Despite continuing success, the future of washi-
making in the region has been thrown into Of course, the objective is not to have everyone
019
doubt by a shortage of successors to the current who participates become a washi professional:
generation of artisans: Yamanashi Prefecture’s the emphasis of Yume Kobo’s introductory
declining population is one factor in this. workshops is firmly on fun, but who knows
where they might lead you?
In response, Yume Kobo Washi Workshop
was established with the aim of popularizing
Shindo Pass
Shindo Pass, a ridge running high between
Mount Nakatto (1,665m) and Mount
Kurodake (1,793m), offers a breathtaking
view of Mount Fuji foregrounded by Lake
Kawaguchiko, the second largest of
the famed Fuji Five Lakes.
From the end point of the Sawarindo Road,
Shindo Pass is an easy five-minute climb
uphill. Its two observation decks, roughly a
minute apart from each other, are among the
limited number of vantage points that allow
an uninterrupted view of Fuji, from peak
right to mountain foot.
With the calm waters of Lake Kawaguchiko
in front, this photogenic scene grows more
enchanting still after dusk, when the area
surrounding the lake is illuminated by
countless twinkling lights.
28 Discover Discover 29022
Kobuchizawa
A must-visit for horse-lovers or anyone
who wants to learn to ride a horse
021 Amehata Suzuri
no Sato Kenshoan
The village of Amehata is known throughout
Japan as one of the best sources of inkstones
(suzuri), a slate-based object used in traditional
Japanese calligraphy to produce ink. Amehata The town of Kobuchizawa in Yamanashi’s show jumping and equestrian competitions
Suzuri no Sato Kenshoan combines a museum, Hokuto region is located at the southern foot are held regularly. The national equestrian
atelier, shop, and riverside terrace cafe, of Mount Yatsugatake, on the Kobuchizawa championship, held every summer at the
telling the story of Amehata suzuri through Plateau at an altitude of about 1,000 meters. Yamanashi Equestrian Center, is open to the
a fascinating collection of exhibits while The town has a long history of horse breeding. public. Horse riding lessons and guided trail
demonstrating that this is a craft still very much War horses for samurai were raised here rides for beginners and experienced riders
alive in the twenty-first century. already in the time of Takeda Shingen, the alike are available at several stables. The oldest
warlord who ruled Kai Province (present-day stables in the area is Wrangler Ranch, which
Historic artifacts and English-language of brushwork. Suzuri are unique among a Yamanashi) from 1540 to 1573. Kobuchizawa has trained horses and the actors riding them
explanatory materials detail how, for centuries, calligrapher’s materials in that they are a tool is close to the border with what is now Nagano for many popular films and TV shows.
superior-quality slate taken from the bed of the that truly lasts a lifetime, and for the people of Prefecture, and Shingen built a road there
adjacent Amehata River has been transformed Amehata they were once a lifelong companion through the mountains. Known as Bo Michi, The equestrian clubs and some
by local artisans into inkstones of sometimes for all: everyone in the village would own one. or Stick Road, because it was so straight, accommodations are located in the
stunningly ornate design. A five-minute video the road was ideal for travel on horseback. mountains about 200 meters above the
explains the process without need of narration, The Kenshoan is notable for its harmonious Today, part of Bo Michi is a hiking trail, center of town. Central Kobuchizawa
overcoming any language barriers. Dependent mix of period European and traditional so you can walk the route while imagining includes the impressive station building,
on timing, you may be lucky enough to see a Japanese interior architecture. Certain Shingen’s horses trotting beside you. completed in 2017. Designed by architect
suzuri maker at work in the Kenshoan’s on-site doorframes have been repurposed from a Atsushi Kitagawara, the modernist station is
atelier. traditional kominka house destroyed in a 2019 There are still many ranches, stables, and intended to resemble an art gallery and even
typhoon, while the river-and-mountain views horse clubs in Kobuchizawa and owners from has its own gallery space. The dark wood
Other exhibits show how inkstones are used from the Kenshoan’s well-placed windows are other parts of the country keep their horses paneling on the outside helps the building
by calligraphers, including some masterpieces worthy of an oil painting. here. There are no racetracks in the town, but harmonize with the surrounding mountains.
30 Discover Discover 31024 Rokugo Seal Museum
Rokugo Seal Museum is dedicated to insho,
the ink-stamp seals that remain a distinctive
feature of business and official life in Japan.
The museum was opened in 2007 by the
local association of insho artisans, who
proudly continue the time-honored skill of
engraving seals by hand. Admission is free.
Seal usage stretches way back into Japanese
history, with the earliest record dating to 57 CE.
Rokugo’s own connection with the item began in
the Bunkyu era (1861-1864), when locals began tools used by the predecessors of Rokugo’s
producing seals from the crystal being mined present-day artisans. Alongside these are striking
in the region, and Rokugo now manufactures examples of the raw materials—including ivory
about half of all the seals made in Japan. as well as crystal—used to produce seal bodies,
Who knew there was this kind of stunning contemporary newspaper advertisements from the 1920s and
architecture out in the countryside? The largest exhibit is too colossal to be housed ’30s, an easily understood visual explanation
inside the museum itself: outside the entrance of how seals are made, and much more.
you can see Japan’s biggest ink stamp. Its
023
inscription, translating as “Immovable like the Head to the stairwell to view a huge image,
mountains,” appeared on the battle flags of local created by countless ink stamp seals and featuring
sixteenth-century warlord Takeda Shingen. Mount Fuji, that in 2016 was certified by
Inside, hundreds of exhibits dating back as far Guinness World Records as having the most
Ryuo Station
as the nineteenth century include engraving individuals contribute to a stamp image.
Ryuo Station juxtaposes contemporary
architecture by the celebrated Tadao Ando (b.
1941) against a backdrop of mountain ranges.
Completed in 2008, the construction draws upon
local inspiration while simultaneously being
an emblematic Ando work that blends into the
the north entrance—incorporates an expansive
cutaway circle through which to view Mount
Fuji. A small Zen-style garden sits under the
roof, a triangular cutaway bathing it in light
at certain hours.
025 Tahara Falls
Located on the Katsura River, the scenic are signs of life / the icicles thawing and / the
surrounding nature. This multitude of triangular forms previews the Tahara Falls is one of the most popular fish in the falls.”
stark angularity found within the main building, sightseeing spots in the city of Tsuru. It is
The station’s shape, viewed from above, suggests which also serves as a pedestrian bridge. Steel, associated with the famous itinerant haiku poet The appearance of Tahara Falls has changed
a clamp linking together the three municipalities glass, and concrete elements combine to create Matsuo Basho (1644-1694), who in the winter greatly over time. Repeated collapses and
merged to form the city of Kai in 2004. More one of Ando’s hallmarks: a dramatic interplay of of 1682 traveled to the village of Yamura erosion of the columnar joints along the river
apparent at ground level is that the construction light and shadow, forever changing with the sun’s (present-day Tsuru) to visit his pupil, a certain necessitated the addition of revetments and
makes extensive use of triangular forms, position. Full-height glass windows frame views minister named Takayama Den’emon. weirs for fortification and erosion control,
symbolizing the crystals abundant in Yamanashi out to the north, south, east, and west, providing and the waterfall consequently has a slightly
Prefecture. views of several mountains. During Basho’s five-month stay in Yamura, artificial feel to it. Nevertheless, the cascading
the poet and his pupil held numerous poetry waters of the Katsura River still offer
Like a traditional Japanese garden, Ryuo Such outstanding architecture, found midway gatherings, during which a number of verses spectacular views, and the place continues
Station uses the “borrowed scenery” technique: along a train line cutting through the countryside, were composed. While visiting Tahara Falls to be popular with railroad photography
the awning-style roof over its south entrance serves to remind us that in life too, the journey in early spring, Basho penned the following enthusiasts seeking shots of the Fujikyuko Line
square—composed of dozens of interlocking can be as rewarding as the destination. haiku describing the herald of spring: “There with the waterfall.
triangles and mirrored by another roof over
32 Discover Discover 33026 Narada Village
Narada Village has more than 1,300 years of a number of legends. Benefits that the empress
history and is the northernmost settlement brought to the villagers are known as the “Seven
in the municipality of Hayakawa. Enclosed Wonders of Narada” and include the tale of how
by mountains and considered an unexplored she commanded birds to stop eating farmers’
region for most of its history, the village crops. Another legend tells of Koken building
has long been associated with folk customs, gofusui, primitive drinking water fountains. One
agriculture, and myth. of these can still be seen today, on the grounds
of Narao Shrine toward the village’s hillside
The entire settlement was relocated onto higher peak. Drinking its water is said to remedy all
ground in the 1960s due to construction of the manner of ailments.
Nishiyama Dam, but a wander up the hill from
this spot still evokes the atmosphere of the Further up the hill, directly behind the shrine,
original village. Clues to the lifestyles of long- sits Kagiya, a charming cafe located inside a
gone residents are scattered all around, while two-centuries-old residence. Just adjacent,
mystery still pervades the air. Narada Village the Hayakawa Town Museum of History and
nowadays falls within the UNESCO-designated Folklore explains the mysterious, folklore-
Minami Alps Biosphere Reserve. based artifacts encountered as you walk
through the village, as well as Narada’s history
The eighth-century Empress Koken is said to as a farming settlement.
have stayed here, and her sojourn gave rise to
027 Iwaibashi Bridge
Built in 1931, the Iwaibashi Bridge was
028 Daimonhirin Park
designed to make it easier for Katsunuma’s
grape growers to transport their grapes by
car to Katsunuma Station. The previous Daimonhirin Park, on hills overlooking the Ascend the slope rising toward the park,
suspension bridge that once stood here was Fuefuki River, recreates ancient imperial China guarded along its center by sculptures of
suitable for horse-drawn carts, but not for in order to reveal the roots and evolution of fearsome-looking beasts, to get the sense that
cars. Hence, a new concrete bridge was built the Chinese characters that form part of the you are crossing over into a different realm.
for getting the area’s precious grapes to and Japanese writing system. Surrounded by nature On the park grounds, the architecture is based
from the railway station more efficiently. and commanding some superb views, the upon that of China’s Tang Dynasty (618-907).
park’s enchanting atmosphere has also made it It was around this period that Japan developed
The bridge crosses the Hikawa River and spans Today, Iwaibashi is open to pedestrians and a popular date spot: it is illuminated for three the kanbun writing system that utilized Chinese
58.6 meters, with a width of 6.6 meters. Due cyclists only, while the large highway bridge days each year to mark Valentine’s Day. characters.
to the uneven terrain of the canyon below, nearby serves heavier vehicles. Although it
bridge piers could not be used, so a modernist may look simple by modern standards, the Across spacious grounds that gradually Looking at the characters inscribed on the
arch design was chosen instead. The shape of bridge has been preserved for its key role in climb in height, the park showcases fifteen tablets, even those who do not speak Japanese
the arches has led to the nickname Megane supporting the local grape-growing industry. reproductions of historic Chinese stone tablets, may recognize similarities to the characters
Bashi, meaning Spectacles Bridge. Iwaibashi It is not only a link to the past, but an ideal each inscribed with texts that mainly describe, seen everywhere in Japan. The texts inscribed
Bridge has become a symbol of the Katsunuma vantage point to see present-day Katsunuma or recount legends of, various Chinese dynastic are helpfully explained by push-button audio
area and of Japan’s early industrialization. as well. There are still vineyards on either periods. The original tablets, dating from 156 guides in English, Japanese, and Chinese. You
Loved by locals and visitors alike, the bridge is side of the bridge, which offers views of the to 841 CE, are preserved as national treasures are free to take rubbings from the tablets,
designated an Important Cultural Property. river and the surrounding mountains. in China. something forbidden with their originals.
34 Discover Discover 35029
Kanzo Yashiki
Built in the early nineteenth century, this
mansion once belonged to the wealthy Takano
family. Kanzo Yashiki means Licorice Mansion,
and Chinese licorice was central to the Takano
family fortune. Often used as a sweetener, and
from the Edo period (1603-1868) a key ingredient
in traditional Chinese medicine, the licorice
grown here was supplied directly to the central
government. The small licorice field on the south
side of the house is thought to be the oldest
licorice crop in Japan.
Stepping into Kanzo Yashiki is like going back
in time to the Edo period. The mansion is well
preserved and can be explored in exchange for
a small maintenance fee. The original thatched
roof has been replaced with copper tiles, but
the distinctive double-layered raised section in
the middle of the south side of the gabled roof
remains. This type of raised roof inside a gabled
roof is characteristic of houses in the Koshu
region. Inside is an entrance room with an
earthen floor beside a large main room featuring
tatami mats and a traditional wood-fired hearth
(irori). A single central wooden pillar supports
the entire house, as is also typical of mansions in
the area.
The second floor was previously used for raising
silkworms, once a major industry in Yamanashi
and surrounding areas including Nagano and
Gunma. Today, it features a range of crockery
and other everyday household items from the
nineteenth and early twentieth centuries. In
autumn, drying orange persimmons are strung
up on cords at the front of the house, another
old-fashioned pastime in the Yamanashi region.
Kanzo Yashiki is the main venue for the Hina
Doll Decoration and Peach Blossom Festival
between February and April every year, with
colorful displays of traditional dolls inside.
The site around the mansion is maintained as
a historical park that also includes other period
buildings, one of which serves as a children’s
library and a warehouse for documents and books.
36 Discover Discover 37030 031
Exploring this hidden enclave gives
a real sense of discovery
Keiunkan Akasawashuku
The Keiunkan hot spring hotel, nestled by to attract more visitors to what is now one Akasawashuku, once a stopover village on the how pilgrims were rewarded with inspirational
the Hayakawa River, was in 2011 recognized of Japan’s least populated areas. The hotel’s pilgrimage route from Mount Minobu over views out over the surrounding mountains.
by Guinness World Records as the world’s present design pays homage to traditional to Mount Shichimen, consists of a cluster of
oldest hotel. Established more than 1,300 years Japanese aesthetics while being subtly diligently preserved traditional buildings that Of the historic buildings that once made
ago, it has soothed the minds and bodies of contemporary. make a wander through its steep, winding lanes up a bustling village, some continue to
generations of visitors, including warlords, feel like a trip back in time. accommodate overnight guests as ryokan guest
men of letters, and others with a taste for Those lucky enough to stay will find shared houses: the almost two-centuries-old Osakaya
refinement. and private baths both inside and out, the Having accommodated pilgrims since the is among these. Others have been repurposed
latter featuring stunning views out over the middle ages, Akasawashuku began to flourish in while preserving their original architecture,
Taking its name from the Keiun era (704-708 (sometimes illuminated) river and enclosing the early Edo period (1603-1868), when a ban such as the Shimizuya cafe located inside a
CE) in which it opened, the hotel is fed by the mountains. Washi-papered guest rooms, a on women visiting Mt. Shichimen was lifted. former kominka residence.
gushing waters of Nishiyama Onsen. According Japanese restaurant utilizing local ingredients, The policy was changed after Oman no Kata,
to the Nihon Shoki, the oldest chronicle of and other opulent facilities make for an concubine to shogun Tokugawa Ieyasu, began The compact, two-story Akasawa Shiryokan
Japanese history, this hot spring was discovered experience to be cherished. praying at the sacred mountain. Many more museum (open 24 hours; please let yourself in)
by the learned priest Joue. Word that the pilgrims began to pass through the village, and offers an intimate, time capsule-style look at
waters had healing properties spread, and in even more came after the pre-World War II how lifestyles in the village evolved over the
the year 705 the Keiunkan opened, on a river completion of the Minobu Line railway. By the centuries, with exhibits ranging from a bamboo
close to the Hayakawa, to take advantage of this 1950s and ’60s, however, the number of visitors palanquin to an early record player.
superior source of bathing water. declined dramatically due to new roads.
The present location might be different, but
the Keiunkan is fed by the very same hot spring It might seem curious that this not-so-easily-
as the day it opened; Nishiyama Onsen has not accessed enclave, at an elevation of 500 to
once let up in the centuries since. In 1997 the 600 meters, became a bustling way station for
Keiunkan was entirely remodeled, in order travelers. A stroll around, though, soon reveals
38 Discover Discover 39032 The Torii Gate in the Sky
Tenku no Torii, or “the torii gate in the The torii gate’s location facing Mt.
033
Saka Manju: A Local Uenohara Specialty
These delicious buns are
the region’s best-kept secret
sky,” has a fairly self-explanatory name. Fuji has made it a popular location for
This striking red gate is a recent addition photographers. While access is free for Saka manju resemble ordinary steamed wheat flocked to the silk market in Uenohara.
to the area, and is one of the places of visitors with smartphones, those wishing buns but are typically made with cooked rice While saka manju were initially considered
worship for Kawaguchi Asama Shrine at to use DSLR cameras to take photographs and sakadane, the yeast mash leftover from home cooking for festivals and gatherings,
the foothills of Mount Fuji. A part of the here must pay a membership fee (valid sake brewing. Though the exact methods thanks to visiting merchants they gradually
forest was cleared in March 2019 to build for a year) of ¥500 per person. vary by maker, the sakadane is generally became popular through word of mouth. It
this gate, and since then, worshipers visiting mixed with sugar and cooked rice and left to is said that during the Edo period, the many
the main shrine below have been able to ferment. Then, flour is added and the dough saka manju shops of Uenohara regularly
pray to Mt. Fuji from this location. kneaded until soft and pliant. Kneading the saw long lines of hungry customers.
mixture into the dough produces a distinctive,
Many cherry tree saplings have been planted mildly salty flavor. Common fillings for the Today, saka manju remains a beloved local
on the grounds, notably cuttings of Japan’s buns include red bean paste and sweet miso, specialty and is often eaten when people gather.
“Three Major Cherry Blossom Trees.” though savory fillings such as salmon and Uenohara is still home to around a dozen shops
These are the takizakura, originally grown pickled mustard greens are also popular. specializing in saka manju, many of them family-
in Fukushima and resembling a cascading run. Each shop has its own take on the treat,
waterfall; the Edo higan zakura, a variety During the Edo period (1603-1868), long before with some offering less traditional fillings such
famed for its beauty and longevity whose Uenohara merged with several neighboring as chestnut, pumpkin, and matcha tea. Every
name derives from its blooming around the villages in 1955 to become the city it is today, local resident has their preferred saka manju
spring equinox; and an usuzumi-zakura, whose the settlement was a bustling town along the supplier in town.
name means “pale gray cherry blossom,” Koshu Kaido route connecting the capital of To find your
referring to the way its blossoms change Edo (present-day Tokyo) with Kai Province own favorite,
from pale pink to pure white and finally to (today’s Yamanashi Prefecture). Light, luxurious you may just
pale gray across the tree’s flowering period. textiles such as locally woven Kai silk were have to try
highly sought after by Edo merchants, who them all.
034 Narusawa’s Lava Tree Molds
Lava tree molds are hollow lava formations
formed around large tree trunks. They
eruption of Mount Fuji in the year 864. In
this area, visitors can walk around 12 lava tree
are created when lava flows through an molds—each one numbered and fenced off, to
area of trees. The lava engulfing a moist, prevent accidental falls—and compare them.
cool tree has its temperature sufficiently The sheer size and depth of these cavities
lowered to leave a solid crust, but the tree speak to the impressive girth of the trees
within burns to ashes or bakes into charcoal, that once stood where the molds now are.
leaving a cavity. For a mold to form, the lava
must be slow-moving, and there must be To have this many lava tree molds in
enough time for the mold to cool down. such close proximity is comparatively
rare even on a global scale. The molds
The village of Narusawa is home to many lava have been designated special natural
tree molds, which were formed in the great monuments by the Japanese government.
A fascinating natural phenomenon
– just don’t fall in!
40 Discover Discover 41You can also read
