The Swiss Cosmetics and Perfume Industry
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The Swiss
Cosmetics and Perfume Industry
By Maria Lüder*
SWISS SCC 29th Winter Seminar Champfèr 2011 (Part II)
The second part of the seminar is starting quirements as the ISO 22716 standard Cos-
with the Tuesday afternoon’s session. Pri- metic GMP. The centerpiece of IFS Stand-
vate label manufacturer and their options to ards is the risk analysis to protect the con-
differentiate in a highly competitive market sumers which are used in all processes.
started the session. Later in the afternoon CWK-SCS has developed an innovative eval-
new carrier systems and their delivery uation table for the risk analysis. This ena-
principles were presented. The newest de- bles the classification and assignment of
velopments in UVA-protection rounded the risks according to the dangers, the potential
lectures of this afternoon. gravity in case of accident and the feasibility
of happening. All relevant processes are
judged by the danger and risk analysis team
Differentiation as private label manufac-
according to the evaluation table und sum-
turer, thanks to IFS-HPC-Standards
marized in a risk matrix. Monitoring of the
Dr. Beat Müller – CWK
Dr. Beat Müller, CWK critical points in the processes is in-build
CWK-SCS, a Division of Coop is world- into so called CPs (Control Points).
wide the first company, certified for the About 190 Retailer use the standard as qual-
new IFS-HPC Standard. Die Abbreviation ity insurance tool for their private labels. The IFS HPC Standard could be intro-
IFS-HPC is standing for “International Fea- duced and audited in CWK-SCS within only
tured Standard Household and Personal The IFS HPC Standard contains 224 con- 6 months. This challenging time line was
Care”. The new standard for Non-Food trol points in the areas of company respon- only possible due to the internally existing
Products developed from the much better sibility, quality management, resource man- know-how around the IFS Food Standard.
known IFS (Food) Standard, which was in- agement, production processes, quality From CWK-SCS point of view the IFS HPC
troduced 2003 and reached a benchmark control and continuous improvement. The Standard improves the product safety and it
status in 90 countries with 12’000 certified standard goes much beyond legislation and is a tool to build trust and reputation to-
companies for HACCP risk management. is much more concrete regarding the re- wards the customer.
* SWISS SCC - Public Relation, m.lueder@swissscc.ch
5-2011 32 EURO COSMETICS
Differentiation as private label producer, Therewith an international marketing is
thanks to ECOCERT Formulations possible. For the developer an Ecocert certi-
Judith Fiedler – CWK fication offers enough flexibility and there-
with the possibility to develop user-friendly
In the area of international private label products. The product requirements are
business retailers are working with auc- clearly regulated for natural and organic
tions, to find the cheapest supplier for a natural cosmetics, raw material data are
specific product. Quality differences are available online, calculations are easy to re-
only recognized for the product evaluation alize with given examples. Ecocert is further
after the first price indications. Here, the exhibiting the subject of packaging, design
natural cosmetic market offers an alterna- and cleaning rules into the evaluation and
tive. There are few suppliers, following that reviews the production annually. Thanks to
the market is not yet that strongly deter- the design standards every user can com-
mined by the price. The past niche market prehend the certification criteria at every
develops into a strong standing leg in the time.
cosmetic segment. Reachable prices and Ecocert certified natural cosmetic offers
margins for the products are higher by the Judith Fiedler, CWK the international private label manufacturer
additional benefit of “sustainability”. This a differentiation towards the market and in-
increases the attractiveness of the market Ecocert is a pioneer in the area of bio ingre- ternational distribution possibilities are of-
for manufacturers and retailer. A label offers dients and natural cosmetic. The Ecocert fered even outside the German speaking
the retailer the necessary safety and clarity. label has an international propagation. area.
«SILAB actives
«SILAB actives
you can’t
En
can’t perform
performwithout»
En complément
complément de
without»
de ses
ses actifs
actifs « Innovation »,
« Innovation », SILAB
SILAB propose
propose une
une nouvelle
nouvelle gamme
gamme d’actifs
d’actifs « les incon-
« les incon-
tournables SILAB
tournables SILAB »
» ::
Complementary
Complementary
Actifs
Actifs «Innovation»
«Innovation»
to the
to
d’origine naturelle
d’origine naturellethe
objectivés grâce
objectivés grâce à
à des
des études range,
étudesrange,
in-vitro SILAB
in-vitro SILAB
et in-vivo
et proposes
in-vivoproposes
« les
« a new
a new range
range
les incontournables
incontournables of active
SILABof
SILAB active substances
substances called
called
«SILAB actives
«SILAB
» actives you
» s’imposent you can’t
s’imposent comme can’t perform
perform without»
comme ingrédients without»
ingrédients essentiels
essentiels de
de la
la cosmétique
cosmétique dede soin.
soin. that
that are
are essential
essential ingredients
ingredients in cosmetic
in cosmetic
skincare products.
skincare products.
L’ingrédient de
L’ingrédient de performance
performance :: ilil apporte
apporte l’efficacité
l’efficacité ciblée
ciblée et
et absolue
absolue au au problème
problème cutané.
cutané. Sélection-
Sélection-
né in-vitro sur
né in-vitro sur un
un marqueur
marqueur biologique
biologique spécifique
spécifique fortement
fortement stimulé,
stimulé, ilil est
est validé in-vivo en
validé in-vivo en comparaison
comparaison S ILAB
ess S
a bl
à des
à des molécules
molécules pharmacologiques
pharmacologiques de de référence
référence (Rétinol,
(Rétinol, peptides
peptides de de synthèse,
synthèse, caféine…).
caféine…). u rn
o
The high-performance
The high-performance ingredient
ingredient
nt
co
m without
L’actifProvides
multifonction
Provides :: ilil garantit
targeted garantit l’homéostasie
and absolute
absolute cutanée to
effectiveness et the
to assure
the une efficacité
problem efficacité
of skin. vitale sur
skin. vitale sur différents
différents
Less in
L’actif multifonction
targeted and l’homéostasie cutanée
effectiveness et assure une
problem of
compartiments. Capable
compartiments. Capable de de réguler
réguler différentes
différentes voies
voies biologiques,
biologiques, ilil apporte
apporte des
des réponses
réponses multiples
multiples
aux déséquilibres
aux déséquilibres cutanés.
cutanés.
The multi-function
The multi-function active
active principle
principle
for
Assurant
Assurant une veille
Restores
une
Restores veille
skinscientifique
skinscientifique
homeostasis
homeostasiscontinue,
continue,
and disposantvital
and disposant
ensures
ensures d’équipements
vital high-tech
effectiveness
d’équipements
effectiveness et de
de chercheurs
chercheurs
on different
on different
high-tech et haute-
layers. haute-
layers.
r
pe
IL 't
ment qualifiés,
qualifiés, SILAB,
SILAB, grâce
grâce à à ses
ses principes
principes actifs
actifs «
« Les
Les incontournables
incontournables SILAB
SILAB » » et
et «
« Innovation
Innovation »,»,
S
ment AB an
act ives u c
répond aux
répond aux attentes
attentes du
du marché
marché cosmétique
cosmétique mondial
mondial à à la
la recherche
recherche de
de toujours
toujours plus
plus d’efficacité
d’efficacité et
et de
de s yo
nouveautés.
nouveautés.
In-cosmetics: Visit us on our booth n°Q40
SILAB -- BP
SILAB BP 213
213 -- 19108
19108 Brive
Brive CEDEX
CEDEX -- France silab@silab.fr -- www.silab.fr
France -- silab@silab.fr www.silab.fr
Its subsidiaries
Its subsidiaries and
and aa worldwide distribution network
worldwide distribution network
5-2011 33 EURO COSMETICS
Glycospheres® other described spheres, not only spherical
Glycospheres® have a solid center formed but over and over streaked by a network of
of modified starch. The external layer liquid crystalline membranes. Encapsulated
around the center, a lipid membrane is build substances can like this be released in a
of fatty acids and polar lipids, thus the whole controlled way. By the degree of the net-
vesicle is made of natural raw materials. The work the rate of release can be adjusted.
hydrophilic actives (especially anionic sub- The SPF of sun care formulations can be
stances) are imbedded into the positively improved by the use of these particles.
charged cellulose polymers and are there-
fore well protected against external influ- UltraSpheresTM
ences like heat and oxidation. The vesicles UltraSpheresTM are forming a nanoemul-
of 200nm are not able to penetrate due to sion with phosphatidylcholine as natural
the rigid internal center and they can release emulsifier. The encapsulation of hydropho-
the actives under increased ion contents. bic actives in the single, flexible membrane
of the UltraSpheresTM will increase the bio-
Sophi-Hydro-Spheres availability of actives in skin. UltraSpheresTM
Sophi-Hydro-Spheres form a new innova- release the actives sustainably over a time
Dr. Gabriele Blume, Sopharcos tive carrier system which has similar and frame of several hours (Slow Release).
better properties than the long known lipo-
Small Actives carriers – very big, spherically some. Sophi-Hydro-Spheres consist of a Sophi-Lipo-Spheres
well into skin membrane forming anionic, eatable emulsi- Sophi-Lipo-Spheres are mainly consisting
Dr. Gabriele Blume – Sopharcos fier that is similar in structure to phosphati- of membrane forming anionic, eatable
dylcholine. The emulsifier is also a diglycer- emulsifiers like the Sophi-Hydro-Spheres
Carrier systems have an importance in ide and esterified with 2 long chain fatty and must also be stabilized with a co-emul-
the cosmetic industry for a long time al- acids (linoleic acid and oleic acid). Both fatty sifier. The colloidal carrier system has an
ready. At the end of the 1980’s Capture of acids are from sun flowers and therefore average vesicle size between 100 -180 nm
Christian Dior used a liposome for the first non-GMO. As head group the salt of a car- and in the center lipophilic substances are
time. It is still being used in Capture Com- bon acid is used (lactic acid and citric acid), encapsulated in high concentrations (20 -
plex Liposomes Smoothness Radiance Firm- giving the vesicle a negative surface charge. 40%). The encapsulated actives can be sta-
ness. New innovative carrier systems For stabilization of the vesicle a further ac- bilized in formulations significantly. The
„Spheres“ (welkin) have been introduced tive respectively an emollient is used. Hy- penetration of the encapsulated lipophilic
recently to the cosmetics business. drophilic and amphiphilic actives can be substances (lipophilic vitamins) into the
encapsulated. In comparison to liposomes skin could be demonstrated by ESR (Elec-
Such carrier systems are often used to the spheres have an advantage regarding tron Spin Resonance Spectroscopy).
stabilize the most very expensive active in- the encapsulation efficiency of amphiphilic
gredients and/or work as transport system substances and salts of acids. The penetra- Literature:
to carry the active ingredients to the in- tion properties of liposomes and spheres Glycospheres®:
tended skin layer. Nowadays systems can are comparable, the high stability of the Kobo Products Incorporated, USA
even be used to prevent penetration of ac- new vesicles in cosmetic formulations was Kem-SpheresTM:
tive ingredients, by forming a depot on the demonstrated to be superior. Sachtleben Chemie GmbH, Duisburg
skin’s surface. UltraSpheres®:
Kem-Spheres® ROVI Cosmetics International GmbH,
The following table is a summary of cho- Kem-Spheres® consist mostly of waxes Schlüchtern
sen carrier systems, presented in detail: and emulsifiers and are, opposite to the
Carrier system Material Actives Size News about the in vitro determination of
the SPF of sun screen agents,
GlycoSpheres® Lecithin + modified Starch hydrophobic + hydrophilic 200 nm
Prof. Dr. Ulrike Heinrich – Dermatronnier
Sophi-Hydro-Spheres Emulsifier + Emollient hydrophilic 80–300 nm
Since many years there is an interest in a
Kem-Spheres® Waxes + Emulsifiers hydrophobic 50–500 nm validated in-vitro measurement of the SPF.
UltraSpheresTM Lecithin + Oil ydrophobic 100–300 nm On the one hand there are ethical aspects,
Sophi-Lipo-Spheres Emulsifier + Co-emulsifier hydrophobic 100–200 nm
to not expose volunteers to irradiation with
UV-light, on the other hand a less costly and
5-2011 34 EURO COSMETICS
ternational „Ad hoc Advisory Group“ was
founded, formed of member states from Ja-
pan, USA, England, The Netherlands, France
and Germany. The evaluation of all appro-
priate examination conditions and work on
proposals for an optimized study procedure
was the task. At the moment many ideas
have been collected that will be presented
to the ISO next spring. Based on improving
framework conditions of in vitro determina-
tions of sun screens an international exami-
nation protocol might be presented in fu-
ture enabling a valid, fast and economic Rene Grüter, CTS-Group
SPF-determination.
Sustainable Market Success – Success Factor
Literature: Human Being
[1] In vitro SPF: still a challenge with no fi- René Grüter - CTS Group
Prof. Dr. Ulrike Heinrich, Dermatronnier nal answer. Rohr M, Klette E, Ruppert S,
Bimczok R, Pflücker F, Klebon B, Hein- Between the poles of short term eco-
rich U, Tronnier H, Johncock W, Peters nomic success, Share/Stakeholder expecta-
more efficient test procedure would be ap- S, Rudolph T, Flösser-Müller H, Jenni K, tions and an always faster moving market
preciated. Kockott D, Lademann J, Herzog B, dynamic, to give space to entrepreneurial
Bielfeldt S, Mendrok-Edinger C, Hanay visions, taking the factor “human being”
The DGK professional group „sun protec- C, Zastrow L.; Skin Pharmacol Physiol into account, is an enormous challenge.
tion“ has worked with the help of ring stud- 2010; 23:201-212 Sustainable successful entrepreneurs but
ies to develop a validated procedure for the also entrepreneurial thinking managers
SPF-measurement. Different substrates with The Wednesday morning was determined recognize die necessity of the investment in
defined roughness were examined with the to human resources on the one hand and to the development from the „Company-Fac-
aim to simulate the skin surface. Addition- biodiversity on the other hand under the tors“ to the „Success-Factor Men”.
ally other parameters like different sizes of slogans Success Factor Human Being and To organize the whole HR-process in a
film thickness per product sample were Biodiversity. company successfully, it applies to actively
taken into account. The many very different
galenic forms of sun screens (Spray, Lotion,
Cream or Stick) were a challenge to over-
come and finally also the natural irradiation
und measuring conditions play a substantial
role.
info@frankenchemie.de
The aim of all methodological standards
www.frankenchemie.de
was to reach a good correlation to the in
vivo SPF-determinations, whereby it is
i e l falt
v
toffiduell inden
known that even those underlie a certain
scatter. In common trainings (User-Meet- h s
Ro ndiv ngeb
ings) a relative good correlation of the labo-
I lei
ratories could finally be reached. Neverthe- K
less the problem remained that inside one
u c h in
laboratory better results could be obtained A
than between different laboratories. Also
on an international level corresponding ring
studies e.g. ISO had similar results. Due to
the enormous interest of the industry and
additionally of the authorities, a special ini-
Richtweg 81 · D-90530 Wendelstein
tiative of the ISO took place last year. An in-
Tel.: +49 (0) 91 29 / 28 18 - 0 · Fax: +49 (0) 91 29 / 28 18 - 30
5-2011 35 EURO COSMETICS
support it from the hiring process to the The development of single employees and
evaluation and development up to the resig- teams could be supported by the tool of a
nation. Beside the „hard skills“, that can of- „Development-Roadmap“ with the slogan
ten be measured directly and can be com- „forward thinking, backward understand-
pared with more or less standardized meth- ing“ which can create valuable benefits. All
ods, a high priority must also be allocated to you need is openness, sense of reality and a
the „soft skills“ – the attitude oriented fac- professional moderation to guarantee the
tors. Because these mainly determine the disclosure of possible blind spots that could
company culture and therefore joy & sym- become problems.
pathy which show the employees as mirror
of the company externally and could create Predictive, proactive „best placement“
the decisive advantage at customers and in- leads to the development of idle potentials
vestors. in an organization that again recuperates
the customers, the company and the em-
For a sustainable contribution to the com- ployees (e.g. new perspectives).
pany success the development of groups to
performing teams is inevitable. The „best placement“ process could also
lead to the conclusion that a separation
Already during the recruiting of an em- forms the best solution. In this case all in-
ployee bottom line happens. This is the volved people is best helped to make defini- Bela Bartha, ProSpecieRara
time where the superior mandatorily should tive decisions and shape the separation
think of which behavior-oriented ideal pro- process fair and future oriented e.g. with managed to make up its mind signing a bio-
file is needed to complement the group or the support of a professional outplacement. diversity convention in Rio that has the aim
the team. One has to scrutinize the areas of to keep the whole versatility of creatures on
personality that are important for the suc- Conclusion earth. One of the signing states was Switzer-
cess or the fail of a working relationship That the human being is a success factor land, that 1998 based on the global action
from a sociological and psychological point for market success in a company is undis- plan developed a national action plan (NAP)
of view: puted. To develop existing potential and to and since then gives money for the realiza-
Thinking structures, attitude, market it requires a conscious focus to the tion.
mindset, social- and daily behavior HR-process along the whole development
chain. This lies in the first instance in the ProSpecieRara tries to contact economic
Next to this „holistic“ approach it is rec- responsibility of the executives and may not partners who can use the genetic resources
ommended to focus early on a leadership be delegated to the personnel department. for its products and therefore can take hold
recognition during the HR-process. With of the offered reservoir, directly or indi-
the help of psychometric tests – it is recom- rectly. Together with these partners strate-
Biodiversity in Switzerland,
mended to use practice oriented, simple gies are developed how the further develop-
Béla Bartha - ProSpecieRara
and easy understandable tools – well fitting, ment and use of the resources knowledge
complementary additions to existing teams 1982 the Swiss foundation ProSpecieRara could be obtained and a percentage of the
can be assured. was established with the aim, to keep and sales again is used for maintenance work.
promote the versatility of agriculturally
Specifically in markets where innovation used animals and plants. Ever since an Mibelle Biochemistry and ProSpecieRara
and marketing are the driving force of suc- amazing versatility in this collection could have found an exemplary way, how such
cessful business models – like e.g. in the be saved, spread over the whole of Switzer- collaboration between a private company
cosmetic industry – questions for the best land. How the foundation came to 1800 that likes to make use of the collection and
possible mix of specialists and generalists as fruits, 450 berries and over 1000 vegetables, an organization that delivers it with its net-
well as the ability to communicate with each as well as 200 ornamental plants and with work could look like.
other in parallel functions effectively and which methods the foundation gets it is the
efficient (Interface-management, e.g. F&E / topic of the first remarks. Wednesday afternoon first had social
Sales & Marketing) have priority. Likewise components in the program with Corporate
actual (textbook)-knowledge should be What the foundation did in the first years Social Responsibility. The second part was
combined with lived front experience, re- was typical pioneers work, because it the science around Screening Tests at Plant
spectively building a fruitful mix which is should take one decade until the official in- Extracts and Efficacy Tests with Cell Cul-
the basis for high performance teams. ternational community of states finally tures.
5-2011 36 EURO COSMETICS
Corporate Social Responsibility, at. Offers of healthy food for employees,
Dr. Andrea Weber - Dr. Babor GmbH & CO. KG over restoration of historical facades in
Aachen up to energetic measures were pre-
According to the definition of the Euro- sented.
pean Commission CSR (Corporate Social
Responsibility) is a concept, where compa- The company Dr. BABOR has incorporat-
nies voluntarily social and also environmen- ed the subject sustainability with all its fac-
tal subjects can implement into companies ets included in future subjects.
activities and therewith contribute to the
global sustainability and competitiveness.
Screening Tests at Plant extracts
Dr. Evelyn Wolfram - ZHAW Wädenswil
Many of the multinational companies
demonstrate their activities to take on cor- Requirements of the
porative responsibility on different internet cosmetic industry to plant extracts
platforms. The listed action plans let the Cosmetic products contain more and
question come up whether also SME’s more plant extracts that should support the
(smaller to medium size enterprises) could products with a label claim or as active in-
change business activities in the sense of gredients for strong efficacy claims or a
social and environmental acting? combination of both. Following an estimate
more than 1000 different plants and parts of
In the seminar activities and measures of plants are used for cosmetic purposes, a
Dr. BABOR with respect to CSR were looked Dr. Andrea Weber, Dr. BABOR GmbH & Co. KG further expansion not excluded.
Personal Care Anz_A5 quer Pf 25.11.2009 15:30 Uhr Seite 1
C M Y CM MY CY CMY K
hibiting properties can be examined with
the focus of High Performance Liquid Chro-
matography (HPTLC).
Efficacy Tests with Cell Cultures
Dr. Margret Ebauer – CELLnTEC Advanced
Cell Systems
The cosmetic industry has developed a
wealth of new active ingredients in the last
decades that should make us younger, more
beautiful and should let us look more radi-
ant. Advertising messages of the industry
are not always supported by independent
scientifically based tests.
Efficacy tests, above all the progress in
cell biology with the possibilities of cell
cultures and new effective analysis methods Dr. Margret Ebauer, CELLnTEC AG
advanced enormously. Visualized effects of
Dr. Evelyn Wolfram, ZHAW-Wädenswil an active ingredient could be coupled with stem cells have been identified as promising
the corresponding working mechanism. approaches for anti aging applications.
Screening of Plant Extracts:
Quality- and Efficacy Examinations New in-vitro Models Over the last years conventional tests to
The cosmetic legislation oblige manufac- The today conventional handling of in identify the working mechanism have been
turers to present a certificate of their prod- vitro cell culture comprises the so called complemented with new methods that al-
ucts efficacy if an effect is claimed. In the 2-dimensional (2D) cell cultures. Indeed the low the analysis of dozens up to thousands
past literature research delivered hints for 2D-cultures can be very sensible for the ex- of characteristics at the same time. One can
corresponding tests of a possible plant ef- amination of a specific questioning, howev- speak about multiplex approaches. On the
fect. er remain a very simplified model of the one hand a huge number of active ingredi-
complex in vivo situation because many ents can be screened at the same time on
An identical INCI denomination of a physiological processes cannot be dis- the other hand their effects can be exam-
number of extracts cannot describe suffi- played. ined for different biological signaling path-
ciently enough the effective substantial ways.
composition of multi component mixtures. 3-dimensional (3D) cell cultures, being
The contents can vary substantially. The very similar to the physiological scaffold, The scientific part of the Winter Seminar
used plant parts play a big role next to the were developed. The epidermal 3D skin ended here. On Thursday afternoon 2
year’s harvest and the origin of the plant model consist of different layers with prolif- compnaies presented a number of interest-
material, as well as the kind, the duration of erating cells in the basal layer und mature ing cosmetic ingredients. Michéle Lindner
the extraction, the solvent, the concentra- cells in the upper layer what corresponds to together with Brigitte aus dem Siepen GFN-
tion of plant material in solvent, tempera- the natural tructure of skin. Hence is the Selco GmbH presented interesting active
ture and solid-liquid separation and eventu- reaction to different factors in 3D structures ingredients followed by Dr. Joachim Blank,
ally further preparations steps. very similar to normal skin. Some processes Brenntag Schweizerhall AG who introduced
specifically the regeneration and differentia- “green” emulsifiers to the audience. Birgit
Instruments are needed that can show tion processes can be examined much more Hämel, S&D Chesham GmbH asked a philo-
the optimization or the reduction of extract precise and a possible in vivo reaction can sophical question Who is the human being?
efficacy depending of the used process pa- be predicted. At the end of this article it is time for the
rameters. first outlook to the next year’s event. The
New in-vitro Methods Winter Seminar 2012 takes place from Janu-
In the lecture examples of tools to detect With the new in vitro methods the culti- ary 29 – February 3. The subject of the
different parameters for plant extract vation of stem cells and precursor cells is coming Winter Seminars is:
screenings are presented. Phytochemical, one of the most important developments.
antioxidative, antimicrobial and enzyme-in- Protection and regeneration of epidermal „(no) Limits in Cosmetics“
5-2011 38 EURO COSMETICS
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