RECIPE ONE: Roast calves' sweetbread with truffled autumn slaw, seeded nut butter and Mimolette - NSPCC
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RECIPE ONE: Roast calves’ sweetbread with truffled autumn slaw, seeded nut butter and Mimolette Enjoy this recipe with wine number 2: Mercurey, 2018 Vieilles Vignes, Domaine François Raquillet Serves 4 4 x 80g pieces of calves’ sweetbread 75g beurre noisette 1/4 white onion very finely sliced. 2 leaves hispi cabbage, very finely sliced. 2 large thin slices of celeriac, cut into very fine julienne/matchsticks. 1 cep/king oyster mushroom, cut into very fine julienne/matchsticks. 1 medium pink radish cut into very fine julienne/matchsticks. 1 large carrot cut into very fine julienne/matchsticks. 1 medium beetroot cut into very fine julienne/matchsticks. 1 Granny smith apple, peeled and cut into very fine julienne/matchsticks. 1 egg yolk 50ml truffle juice/mushroom stock 200ml grapeseed oil 1 tsp truffle oil 1/4 tsp Dijon mustard 1/2 tsp sherry vinegar 50g Mimolette cheese 1 tsp each of sunflower seeds and poppy seeds and nibbled almonds 1 tbsp plain flour Mix all the vegetables except the beetroot together in a bowl, season with salt and pepper and set aside to wilt slightly. Place the egg yolk in a blender, add a generous pinch of salt, the truffle juice, Dijon mustard and sherry vinegar. Turn the machine on to medium and gradually add the oil to make a rich truffle emulsion. Adjust the seasoning if necessary. Add enough of the truffle cream to the vegetables to just bind them - but do not overdo it, it does not want to be as rich as a typical coleslaw. Season the sweetbreads, dust them with flour and pan fry over a medium heat in the beurre noisette - turning only once a rich golden colour has been achieved. This should take 3 to 4 minutes each side, at which point they will be sufficiently cooked. If they feel at all soft pop them through pre-heated oven (180 degrees C) for a minute or two. Remove the sweetbreads from the pan, add
the seeds and nuts and toast briefly until the almonds turn golden. Tip them out onto a plate along with the juices and butter. Divide the autumn slaw between 4 plates and top with a piece of sweetbread. Cover with the juices and seeds and using a micro plane dust each with Mimolette. Garnish with the apple and beetroot julienne. Recipe from: Phil Howard Co-owner of Elystan Street restaurant https://www.elystanstreet.com/ - 43 Elystan Street London SW3 3NT Philip Howard has always been a “chef’s chef”, quietly notching up years of service and influencing the industry immeasurably. Formerly Head Chef and co-owner of The Square for twenty-five years, Phil is now chef and co-owner with Rebecca Mascarenhas of Elystan Street in Chelsea. Known for his delicacy of touch and his emphasis on seasonality and flavour Phil held two Michelin stars for 17 years of his tenure at The Square. He has spent much of his career nurturing chefs and enjoys showcasing his protégés. He remains a partner in four restaurants; Kitchen W8, Elystan Street and The Ledbury.
RECIPE TWO: “I ate his liver with some fava beans and a nice chianti” Enjoy this recipe with wine number 3: Chianti Classico, 2017 Castagnoli Serves 2 as a main, or 4 as a starter For the liver: 500g calf’s or lamb’s liver 2 teaspoons fennel seeds 1 teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon ground black pepper 1 large or 2 small cloves garlic 8 bay leaves 150g caul fat (or thinly sliced pancetta or lardo) For the smashed broad beans: 2kg broad beans in their pods, or 500g podded broad beans 2 sprigs basil 1 sprig parsley 5 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil To prepare the liver (this can be done ahead of time): 1. Cut it into 8 equal chunks, removing any larger veins or outer membrane (which can be tough) 2. Crush together, in a mortar and pestle, the fennel seeds, salt, pepper and garlic 3. Rub the liver with this marinade 4. Lay a bay leaf on each chunk of liver. Unpick and stretch out the caul fat (if using – it is highly recommended) and wrap each piece of liver tightly in a single layer of caul. 5. Secure the caul-liver parcels on skewers, and refrigerate until you’re almost ready to eat To make the smashed broad beans (this can be made ahead) 1. Pod the broad beans 2. Boil them in unsalted water until they are tender inside. At the start of the season (springtime) this will be about 2 minutes, by summer (when they are starchy) it could take 10-15 minutes. 3. Drain and briefly refresh under cold running water. 4. If you have a mouli/food mill, you can put the cooked broad beans through it – the mill will mash the beans and leave behind the husks. If you do not have a food mill, peel the beans by hand and roughly smash them with a potato masher 5. Chop the basil and parsley and stir it through the beans with the oil 6. Season with salt and pepper, adding just a splash of water to achieve the texture of mashed potato
When you are ready to eat: • Heat a BBQ, frying pan, grill pan or domestic grill – you want a medium-high heat, but not blazing • Grill the liver parcels on 2 sides, about 4-5 minutes each side. They should be browned on the outside but in a most un-Italian way still blushing pink within. Hannibal would approve. • The broad bean puree can be served alongside, ideally slightly warmed but it is best not hot. Recipe from: Jacob Kennedy Bocca di Lupo restaurant http://boccadilupo.com/ 12 Archer Street, London W1D 7BB There is little more celebratory in spring than the glut of broad beans (fave in Italian), and it is the time for young animals, whose livers taste a good deal less liverish than poor Clarice Starling’s, which was so famously munched on by Hannibal Lecter – and whose wine pairing was inspired. In Tuscany, fegato alla toscana is normally made with pig’s livers – which are delicious, but very full- on. In spring, I prefer to use that of lamb or calf. You can cook this on a barbecue, in a frying pan, or under a grill – and will need some toothpicks or skewers.
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