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Pour THE QUARTERLY Summer 2020 formerly the publican PM40026059 » CONNECTING WITH GEN Z » ANALYZING TRENDS » FOOD TRENDS » QUICK ON OUR FEET
up front FEATURES 10 Quick on our Feet connecting with gen z Our industry is doing what it does best–take care of each other. 16 Village Liquor Store 6 GEN Z BRAND EXPECTATIONS How Village Liquor Store makes ARE NOT WHAT YOU THINK life better for everyone on Gabriola Island 18 10 Food Trends for 2020 Takeout, supporting local, low proof drinks, flexitarianism, and fermentation are top trends. 22 Counting what Counts Find the right data, review statistics and benchmarks, then analyze the trends. DEPARTMENTS 4 ABLE BC Industry Update 5 BC Liquor Industry Trends 13 Beer Notes: Wine-beer Hybrids 13 Product Showcase 14 Wine Report: Viva La France 21 Names in the News 26 Liquor Licences in BC 27 What’s Coming? 28 ABLE BC Membership Report 29 BC Hospitality Foundation 30 Spirit Spotlight: All the Fizz About Carbonation EXTRAS 9 Make your Business More Influencer-friendly 24 Fostering Employee Engagement During a Time of Crisis
» ABLE BC Industry Update by Jeff Guignard It’s hard to believe how quickly things changed. Hill in Ottawa, I know how important it is for For me, March 13th—barely seven weeks governments to step up to the plate. Only ago—was the day I fully understood that BC government has the financial resources to was going to be irrevocably changed by the tackle the staggering scope of our collective Quarterly Publication for the Alliance of Beverage Licensees COVID-19 pandemic that had, until then, been challenge. mostly confined to other places. That’s why we’ve working with dozens of 2nd floor 948 Howe Street, Vancouver, BC V6Z 1N9 By March 16th, hundreds of hospitality business associations to fight for rent relief, T 604-688-5560 F 604-688-8560 Toll free 1-800-663-4883 businesses closed. Then St. Patrick’s Day— tax deferrals, wage subsidies, forgivable info@ablebc.ca www.ablebc.ca @ABLEBC one of our industry’s most profitable days—was loans, and a host of other measures. Although all but officially cancelled. we still have much to do, I am enormously 2019-2020 Board of Directors & ABLE BC Staff COVID-19 had officially taken root in BC. grateful for how quickly governments have President Al McCreary Past President Poma Dhaliwal BC’s hospitality industry was hit first—and implemented these needed programs. Most Vice President Al Deacon hit hardest—by this pandemic. After that first importantly, they are actively seeking input Treasurer Trevor Kaatz week, almost every LP in BC had closed. When to proactively solve challenges. We remain in Directors Brady Beruschi, Michael Brown, you add in layoffs from the accommodation and daily contact with our government partners to Yvan Charette, Stephen Roughley, Barry Zwueste tourism sectors, our industries lost 250,000 give them feedback on which programs are Director-At-Large Lorne Folick, Gerald Proctor jobs that first week alone. working, which need improving, and where Executive Director Jeff Guignard As of late April, much of BC’s economy gaps remain. Director of Membership & remains shuttered or operating at reduced Throughout this crisis, BC’s Business Communications Danielle Leroux capacity. While some sectors like liquor retail Technical Advisory Panel (the liquor advisory are doing well, others have been decimated. panel comprised of the heads of BC’s The Quarterly Pour Editorial Committee: Megan Carson, Trevor Kaatz, Paul Rickett, Leah Stark, Dave Lindsay According to the BC Chamber of Commerce, various liquor and hospitality associations) 40% of BC’s businesses have less than 90 days has been meeting several times per week to Designed, Produced & Published by: of operating cash, over half of those still open discuss liquor policy solutions to support your EMC Publications 19073 63 Avenue, Surrey BC V3S 8G7 report 75% declines in revenue, and more than businesses. Things like allowing LPs and FPs Ph: 604-574-4577 1-800-667-0955 half of those currently closed likely won’t reopen to sell alcohol with take-out or delivery meals, info@emcmarketing.com once this pandemic is over. protecting the integrity of our supply chain, www.emcmarketing.com Publisher Joyce Hayne The International Monetary Fund has said and earlier opening hours for liquor retailers. Designer Krysta Furioso that COVID-19 will lead to “the worst economic We’re also working on deferring licensing fees, ABLE BC Editor Danielle Leroux fallout since the Great Depression.” securing a discounted “hospitality price” for Copyright EMC Publications THAT is the true scope of what we are all on-premise licensees, and restoring single confronting together. bottle picks from LDB Wholesale. PUBLICATIONS MAIL AGREEMENT NO. 40026059 I know many of you aren’t sure how you’re We’ve divided our recommendations into RETURN UNDELIVERABLE CANADIAN ADDRESSES TO CIRCULATION DEPT EMC PUBLICATIONS going to make it. You’re losing sleep wondering three general buckets: 1) urgent (i.e. what you 19073 63 AVENUE how to pay your rent, property tax, and utility need now to survive), 2) re-opening (what will SURREY BC V3S 8G7 bills. And I know it hurts to tell people you’ve help you get your doors open), and 3) recovery email: info@emcmarketing.com worked with for years that you have to let them (what you need to get back on your feet in go; that you don’t know if their job will be there the long term). To learn more, check out our when all of this is over. “COVID-19 and BC’s Hospitality Industry” It may offer only a small comfort to say it, but webinar in ABLE BC’s online store at ablebc. you are not alone. None of us have ever faced ca or drop me a line at jeff@ablebc.ca. anything like this, but we will get through this No one knows how long this pandemic The opinions & points of view expressed in by working together. For our part, the team at will last, or when our industry will be able published articles are not necessarily those of ABLE BC. Advertisers are not necessarily endorsed by ABLE BC. ABLE BC will be here for you, and will keep to resume some level of “normal” services. fighting for you, for as long as it takes. No matter what comes next, ABLE BC will The work we do at ABLE BC on your behalf remained focused on fighting for your interests. has never felt more important or more urgent. If you’d like to discuss these or other issues, Having spent a decade working on Parliament please don’t hesitate to get in touch. 4 The Quarterly Pour
BC LIQUOR INDUSTRY trends Wholesale Sales October - December 2019 Litres % increase/decrease % increase/decrease over previous quarter over previous year Beer - Domestic BC Commercial 33,141,121 - 13.4% - 9.3% Beer - BC Micro Brew 7,030,078 - 17.5% +5.8% Beer - BC Regional 11,261,106 - 15.1% +4.5% Beer - Import 9,293,125 - 17.8% - 0.8% Cider - Domestic & Import 3,779,037 - 33.0% - 7.8% Coolers 8,779,048 - 42.1% +22.4% Gin 458,895 - 13.0% +6.4% Rum 1,197,991 - 30.0% - 4.8% Tequila 256,019 - 23.2% +6.8% Vodka 2,455,175 +3.6% +2.4% Whisky 2,233,194 +20.7% - 0.01% Wine - BC 11,091,512 - 1.8% - 0.08% Wine - Canadian 301,802 +44.6% +60.6% Wine - USA 2,186,238 +25.2% +2.9% WineTotal 21,606,908 +6.7% - 0.05% Hospitality Sales October - December 2019 Litres % increase/decrease % increase/decrease over previous quarter over previous year Beer - Domestic BC Commercial 5,874,012 - 2.1% - 12.3% Beer - BC Micro Brew 2,797,899 - 14.8% +7.4% Beer - BC Regional 2,738,126 - 17.6% - 5.5% Beer - Import 2,075,323 - 6.1% +4.7% Cider - Domestic & Import 530,131 - 23.1% - 3.4% Coolers 260,810 - 40.1% +16.0% Gin 85,372 - 6.8% +6.0% Rum 91,174 - 5.2% - 10.8% Tequila 90,748 - 14.0% +9.2% Vodka 260,367 - 7.5% +0.1% Whisky 154,460 +12.5% - 5.6% Wine - BC 1,504,523 - 9.5% +1.7% Wine - Canadian 19,606 - 40.7% +22.8% Wine - USA 195,467 +14.4% - 5.1% WineTotal 2,576,807 - 4.2% +0.2% At the end of last year, most trends continued on the same path as they were heading earlier in the year. Domestic commercial beers continued their decline as craft beers and RTDs took their market share. Rum is definitely declining in popularity both in hospitality and wholesale sales. Tequila slowed its growth in the last quarter, but still showed gains over last year. Not surprisingly, whisky sales were strong over the holidays, but haven’t increased much year-over-year. Canadian rosé wine sales from outside of BC were making big gains earlier in the year, but had an over 40% drop in the last quarter, in both hospitality and wholesale sales, as the weather started to cool. Red wines from USA took some of that market share, so the ‘Buy Local’ message wasn’t very strong over the holidays. The Quarterly Pour 5
Top 3 Ways to Connect with Gen Z GenZ Brand Expectations are Not What You Think by G r ac e La n u za Emerging from the shadow of Millennials, Generation Z is making waves behaviours and highlighted the great ways on how being “typical” is and claiming its place in society. With a firm grip on social influence and the true essence of what makes a difference in the world. Combined the spending power of $143 billion, companies are eager to capture their with great imagery and key messaging that tugs on the heart strings attention, which is only the first step. When a brand is “lit” (as the cool of everyday “typical” life scenarios, it conveys their brand’s “why”. kids say these days!) and turns the impression into an engagement, and The realness is revealed, it’s seen as not manufactured or “fancy”, then eventually into a conversion or a sale, that’s when the rubber meets but something that the viewers themselves or someone in their social the road. But how do you do that? network might have experienced before. Traditionally, companies have had a large Now what does that have to do with The intent is focus on conversion. However, with this making and selling beer? Everything! generation it’s all about purpose, intent, Because ads like these make the and connection. They want to be seen and content real and relatable to the people heard, and have a strong stand on core values that they apply in their everyday lives. something that Gen Z s who are buying and consuming their products. Purpose What is your company’s purpose and how zero in on. Intent When reaching out to connect with do you make that come to life? A bigger consumers, the intent is something that question is, does your brand live its purpose and is it infused in every Gen Zs zero in on. They want to know why companies want to connect bit that is consumer facing? This generation expects to know your “why” with them and most importantly how they want to connect. and then they make the decision to engage with your brand. Anyone can hire a big-time celebrity to represent a brand, but this generation Studies have shown that it takes an average of eight seconds for sees through that. The importance of transparency and authenticity is this consumer mix to decide whether they deem your brand worthy to paramount to today’s key messaging. The rise of “micro influencers” on social interact with. Aligning your purpose in a concise and meaningful way is media bleeds onto retail and ecommerce. This generation wants to know who key for brand engagement. Budweiser’s “Typical American” Superbowl is using the product. Real people who share their life in digestible snippets on commercial did just that. They took the “typical” American stereotype social platforms promote the realness and relatability factor. 6 The Quarterly Pour
How can you apply this to your business? Invite influencers into your pub and liquor store, create a photo wall, and provide opportunities to make great photos that they can share with their followers. The White Claw phenomenon is real and not just on memes anymore. The rise of the White Claw Gang and White Claw Crew makes the brand’s intent clear: they have real people drinking their products and it is firmly infused into the White Claw culture and lifestyle. Gen Z like the glory of acquiring something that is desired by others and the feel of belonging to a clan, a crew, or a cult following who prescribe to the ideal “Instagram famous” vision amongst their peers. The White Claw brand makes it easy for their consumers to desire the product but more so, to desire the intended lifestyle the product makes the consumer experience. In this case, it’s not just a drink, it’s also an experience, and a fun one at that. Connection Gen Z crave connection that leads to community building. In the recent, COVID-19 pandemic, Gen Z were quick to adapt to technology resources, which may seem detached to some people, but they are using it to connect and cultivate their community. They tend to gravitate towards companies that also understand connection and community with the The Quarterly Pour 7
added bonus of being able to encourage the freedom of self-expression. The success of apps such as TikTok covers all of that, along with the ease of a mobile platform, which this generation lives on. One of the most popular features of TikTok is the “duet” feature where creators can “co-create” with another person and put their own spin to things. Instagram has followed suit with the update of being able to go “live” on Instagram stories with another user. Creating connection and building community creates influence and clout, which turns into conversion. In today’s uncertain times, what is your company doing in order to prepare to capture the wave of this new generation? Stanford Professor and author, Bob Sutton recommends thinking of what you can do to connect on an emotional level and then you’ll be able to “guide their Creating connection and building community creates influence and clout... behaviour to more tangible outcomes.” Consider taking an inventory of your brand, its values, messaging, and behaviours. How do you make your brand come to life? How do you make Gen Z consumers be able to feel like they are your co-creators and not just customers? What we have learned lately is how brands are able to pivot when faced with adversity and be of service to their community on a global scale. When thinking of your next campaign or even a social media post, consider if it serves your brand’s purpose, if it has a clear intention, and how it will create connection with your new consumer. They’re here, they’re waiting, and there’s no turning back. O’Hares’ owners Erinn & Grant Bryan 8 The Quarterly Pour
Make your Business More influencer- friendly by Lindsay O’Donnell ‘Influencer Marketing’ is one of those buzzwords that gets thrown around a lot. It’s like how people use the word ‘synergy’ or ‘brand awareness’. They all can be powerful assets in your marketing toolbox, but the majority of the time people throw those words around without being purposeful and strategic. Influencer marketing is one of those elusive things that every business feels they need, but many aren’t sure where to start. My advice is to take some time and understand what exactly an influencer is and what their job is. This will make it so much easier for your business to work with one. Why work with an influencer? You can reach new customers and drive sales. You’ll also notice that most new restaurants The goal here is to access their audiences Let’s start with the basics. An influencer and cafes have feature walls. This is because by having them talk about and promote your is anyone who has influence over a group of people are generally looking for somewhere to brand on their digital channels. What they’re people, usually within a niche. I usually see take photos that immediately tell people where getting is fresh content. But remember, they three types of influencers: they are. It can be as simple as statement don’t want to talk about what everyone else • Digital Influencers (bloggers, YouTubers, wallpaper or a living wall with plants. Make it has already reviewed. So offer something timely Instagrammers) easy for people to take photos of your place and unique, like trying a limited edition cocktail • Community Influencers (i.e. yoga teachers to share. or a product with a seasonal recipe. who are out in their community every day Making your business accommodating to I also use this outreach as a way to see who is in a leadership role) influencers is just the first step. This is the low genuinely enthusiastic about the brand so that • Expert Influencers (i.e. a food scientist who hanging fruit. Next comes outreach. when we’re ready to start paid partnerships, has influence within their industry) I know who provides the most value. You’re We’re going to cover digital influencers Reach Out to People trying to get some online conversation going, and how to build long-lasting and productive For most businesses or brands, I recommend but you’re also vetting who you might want to relationships with them. reaching out to one or two influencers a work with more seriously in the future. An influencer’s job is to produce new, month. Offer to send them some of your One of the most impor tant things to fresh content that is timely and relevant. That dishes to try. Find influencers who have similar remember is to maintain relationships with means they need news that is relevant to their audiences as you or currently are engaging those who you had a good experience with. audience and they generally need fresh and with businesses in the same neighbourhood. It can be a bit of work finding people and unique photos. Send a simple message saying why you’re a coordinating a partnership, so keep those The good news is, they need you as much as valuable contacts happy by reaching out when fan of what they do, what you’d like to offer you need them! Brands and influencers have a you have something new for them to talk about. them for free, and why it would be worth symbiotic relationship. It may take a bit of trial and error in the sharing it with their audience. beginning, but these relationships can be Remember that if you aren’t paying bloggers Make it Easy to Share extremely valuable to you as you grow and or Instagrammers anything, you can’t ask So, if you want to get more online conversation build your online presence! for anything in return. Consider this type of (i.e. more customers talking about you on outreach like sending a press release. You’re social media), make an influencer’s job easy. sending it out and hoping for the best. If they come to your business, can they get Lindsay O’Donnell is the founder and owner of What you can do is be specific about what good photos? Is the food plated nicely? Is the Piquant Marketing, a Vancouver-based agency you’d like. Offer a free meal or a free product lighting adequate? Do you have unique and sample and suggest they review it on their blog that grows food and wellness businesses. seasonal products or dishes? or Instagram stories. @piquantmarketing The Quarterly Pour 9
Quick on Our Feet The Intrinsic Adaptability of our Hospitality Industry by Lau r a Sta r r Courtesy of Resurrection Spirits Distillery & Lounge These last weeks have been a devastating time for our society as we slowly descend into a harsh new reality that leaves many people Distilleries uncertain, unbalanced, unsupported, and unemployed. The hospitality In one of the most feel-good moments since COVID-19 became a industry in particular has taken a hard blow, as many are small businesses household name, we started to see local distilleries catch wind of a with miniscule profit margins and high numbers of employees on desperate need for hand sanitizer. These manufacturers switched minimum wage. Many are feeling overlooked by the government for up their entire production lines to start supplying front-line workers, support, and while there have been many hands thrown in the air from hospitals, nurses, palliative care centers, senior facilities, and at-risk all sectors, there has also been a very communities with donated hand sanitizer. touching wave of creative solidarity. Jacob Wiebe, manager of Shelter Point The hospitality industry is resilient and adaptive by nature – being shelter point Distillery on Vancouver Island, said they were compelled to make the quick switch in distillery was able to quick on our feet is how we survive production after being approached by medical every day and night of service, clinics and hospitals that were dangerously bartending, stocking liquor shelves, low or completely out of hand sanitizer. In and accommodating customer demands. And now, in the face make and donate 2000L only a few short days, they were able to make and donate 2000L of medical grade hand of medical grade hand of a global pandemic and forced sanitizer to Vancouver General Hospital. shutdown, businesses that thrive Since then, with an overwhelming amount of sweat, volunteers, and overtime, Shelter Point sanitizer. on fostering human connection are stepping up and doing what our will have manufactured just shy of 40,000L, industry does best–take care of most of which is donated, but now some being each other. made available to the public at a cost. 10 The Quarterly Pour
In East Vancouver, Resurrection Spirits picked up on the sanitizer trend and immediately recognized a need for it not only for front-line workers in hospitals, but also the struggling Downtown Eastside (DTES) communities. Founder Brian Grant, who is no stranger to community initiatives and helping out those in need, didn’t want to wait to distill and decided to use his own neutral grape spirit to make a fast 800L of sanitizer that was promptly delivered to those most in need and at risk in the DTES. Since then he has organized a GoFundMe to raise funds to continue the production and distribution of sanitizer. The Liquor and Cannabis Regulation Branch recently changed its policies to support distilleries in their endeavours to help out–resulting in many more companies jumping on board. There have been talks and promises of support and payment from different governments and agencies, but for the most part, these distilleries started production out of their own pockets, using their own supplies and with the dedication of their hardworking staff, many of whom are donating their time. Now that there seems to be enough sanitizer for the front lines, these companies have opened up their sales of sanitizer to the public, and many are offering it barely at cost. It is a point of pride to call these companies our own, and it is worth an extra cheer to these champions in our industry who stepped up to help out when our communities needed it most. Courtesy of Resurrection Spirits Distillery & Lounge Bars, Pubs, and Restaurants Where distilleries had the capacity to step in with sanitizer production, bars, The tone is similar at Wayward Distillery. Owner Dave Brimacombe, pubs, and restaurants have been able to do this with food and beverage ex-Canadian military, immediately noticed the effect of COVID-19 on the (we can all be grateful for the loosening of liquor delivery regulations). small town of Comox, which consists of mainly family businesses that Trevor Kallies, bar beverage director of Donnelly Group, spoke to simply couldn’t keep up with product demand. Being so attached to the the devastation of laying off employees and feeling helpless against this community and the people, as well as attuned to the essential need for pandemic. The Donnelly Group implemented a lunch program for their protection for front-line workers, Brimacombe quickly modified Wayward employees who had been let go, offering boxed lunches several days a Distillery’s production line and came through with sanitizer for not only week as a way to help alleviate food costs while people figure out how front-line workers, but also other areas of need such as palliative care to make ends meet. Kallies was quick on his feet too and took on the centers, senior facilities, and warehouses. The Quarterly Pour 11
Courtesy of Wayward Distillery responsibility of maintaining communications their doors. Originally intended for their staff, Survival of the Quickest on their Feet with all staff. He works to keep everyone they then opened up their cheap and wildly The initiatives continue to gain momentum, engaged and informed during these trying delicious dishes to the public, with a mandatory as our hospitality hearts continue to grow and times, from offering current government $2 donation to the Food Bank, as well as evolve. But one thing is for certain, no matter how information, to signing up staff for online liquor the chance to buy a “suspended stew” for tough these times might get, we can do this. Our and bar training courses through Bar Smarts someone in need. capacity to nurture and care for our community and Ananas–currently available for free. Keefer Bar was also on the ball when they is ingrained in our industry, and when faced with Takeout has been the most common shut their doors and immediately announced a crisis, we will figure out how to stay on our feet. foodservice adaptation, but some estab- the sale of online gift cards with 100% Lean into that inherent adaptability that goes so lishments took it upon themselves to do more proceeds going to their staff. Many other bars hand in hand with hospitality, and together we’ll than just try and survive–they wanted to make have rolled out similar incentives since, each see this crisis through to the end! sure everyone else was fed, too. Say Mercy with a heartfelt endeavor to make sure their rolled out their Staff Meal initiative seemingly hospitality family is going to be looked after. moments after restaurants were told to close 12 The Quarterly Pour
BEER Wine-Beer Hybrids NOTES There is an old adage about never mixing the grain and the grape, but it seems like BC breweries are by Joe Wiebe PRODUCT SHOWCASE doing just that with more and more frequency. Wine-beer hybrids or so-called “grape ales” are the newest trend to hit the craft beer world, and the results have been very tasty indeed. Brewers have experimented by fermenting grape juice or grape must (freshly squeezed grape juice with skins, seeds, and stems included) or pomace (just the solid portion of the must) along with typical It featured Riesling grapes blended with a tart beer ingredients (barley, hops, water, and yeast). farmhouse ale, elderflower and sweet woodruff, and Sometimes, they also choose to age these hybrid fermented with wild yeast. grape ales in foeders or wine barrels, adding extra Parker Reid, Head Brewer at Field House, character from the wood. They might funk them up was first inspired by a beer he tasted at Burdock with Brettanomyces yeast or purposefully sour them Brewing in Toronto three years ago. A collaboration with mixed bacterial cultures. with a Niagara winery called Pearl Morissette, Several BC breweries have dabbled in the style, Bumo 2 featured a blend of Pinot Noir, Pinot Rosé, including: Brassneck Brewery and Strange and one-year-old barrel-aged Saison. “It just blew Fellows Brewing (both in Vancouver); House of me away,” Reid remembers, adding that he soon GIGGLEWATER Funk Brewing in North Vancouver, where every realized “there are so many different grapes and so PROSECCO DOC beer spends time fermenting or conditioning in many different flavours. That was three years ago. Sparkling Wine wood at some point; Spinnakers Brewpub in We’ve just been experimenting ever since.” Italy Victoria, which first dabbled in the style back in Field House’s main winer y par tner in this 2014 using Vancouver Island grape juice to brew endeavour is Whispering Horse in Yarrow, near Gigglewater, a term used its Ortega Blonde; Steel and Oak Brewing in Chilliwack. Reid’s favourite of their grapes is called in the 1920s for alcoholic New Westminster; and Coalesce Brewing, a side L’Acadie, which reminds him of the Nelson Sauvin beverage. project founded by Twin Sails Brewing’s head hop. Speaking of hops, Reid sometimes doesn’t brewer Ryan Voigt. even add hops because the grapes have so much Winner: Best Prosecco flavour. In other cases they “use hops to accentuate – Alberta Beverage Luppolo Brewing (and its in-house side project Awards Temporal Ales) has also explored the wine-beer certain flavours.” hybrid style quite a bit, which perhaps makes sense Field House would like to work with bunches of “A pale straw yellow considering its Italian roots. After all, brewers in Italy grapes directly, but they are very expensive and colour precedes this have been making “uva birra” or grape beer for more difficult to find, apparently, so the brewery is putting flowery, exuberantly than 15 years already. Italian Grape Ale was even in grapes at its own farm, a project that began in fruity, light bubble. recognized as an Italian regional style by the Beer 2018 to support the food program at the brewery. Apples, lemon and fun Judge Certification Program (BJCP) in 2015. As well, the brewery is moving its entire barrel mark the palate and not Steamworks Brewer y, based in Burnaby, program and foeders to the farm, which has its necessarily in that order. partnered with Blasted Church Vineyards to own manufacturing licence: the Field House Barrel This Glera fizz is ready to make a special Saison fermented with fresh Room. It takes two or three years for grape vines to party.” Gewürztraminer grape must. Some of it was mature enough to bear fruit, so they won’t be making GismondiOnWine.com released as Sanctuary Saison, and some was put any beers with their own grapes for a while yet. away in barrels with Brettanomyces yeast, then All around BC, breweries are exploring the bottle conditioned with white wine yeast. The possibilities of brewing beers with traditional wine resulting beer was called Purgatory. ingredients mixed in. Whether you call them grape 750ml +100011 SPEC Abbotsford brewery Field House Brewing has ales or beer-wine hybrids, the results are often $14.99 Wholesale released more than a dozen grape ales over the unique and tasty. And with such a strong wine $17.99 Hospitality past few years. The first was Wild Riesling Ale, a industry here in BC, just think of the collaborations collaboration with the Head Brewer from Dogfish that will occur as local partnerships form between 604-737-0018 Head, the famously experimental Delaware brewery. breweries and wineries. dhs-wine.com The Quarterly Pour 13
Wine report by Tim Ellison Viva La France Following the Vancouver International Wine Festival, there is renewed excitement for the wines of this year’s featured country, France. And with good reason, as France straddles ideal latitudes for grape growing and all types of climatic conditions are represented, from Continental in the east, cool to the north, hot in the south, and Mediterranean to the west, particularly around Bordeaux. The country encompasses all of the best growing climates for wine grapes. France is also located on the convergence of the African and Eurasian tectonic plates and the ensuing volcanic activity and other earth movements have contributed to a unique variety of soil types and composition. The French are experts at identifying exact geographic/climatic conditions and then carefully matching them best to the variety to grow in that region, right down to the plot. There have been centuries of experimentation, observation, and documentation of the performance of different varietals and clones in various places. Linkage has been made to how this information influences the decisions around wine making and characteristics of the finished wine. This knowledge has contributed to their mastery of wresting the best a vine has to offer. As a result, France is the only country in the world able to produce, arguably, the best examples of wines from of all 8 of the noble grape varieties. These French regions can lay claim to producing world class wines from all the following varietals: • Chardonna, Burgundy, Languedoc, Champagne • Sauvignon Blanc, Loire, Bordeaux and Languedoc • Riesling, Alsace • Pinot Gris, Alsace Courtesy of Wine Folly • Pinot Noir, Burgundy, Champagne, Alsace • Merlot, Bordeaux and Languedoc • Cabernet Sauvignon, Bordeaux and Languedoc • Syrah/Shiraz, Rhone and Languedoc AOC Bourgogne level. Chablis AOC especially is producing some clean, So, no matter your style of cuisine or service, from seafood driven crisp, unoaked Chardonnays that sing with seafood and are fantastic to burgers and fries, bistro style to fine dining, there is a French wine all on their own. Plus, look for amazing values in richer oaked whites ideal to serve. That coupled with a recent string of great vintages have from the Macon and Cotes Chalonnaise to the south of the Cote d’ caused consumers to discover France all over again. Or. Cremant de Bourgogne, offering sparkling wine that is made from The wine producing regions and their most famous styles of wine the same grapes as in Champagne, can provide great value for dollar are as follows: drinking pleasure. Alsace Burgundy (red) Look for aromatic Gewürztraminer, dry, high alcohol Riesling, and Red Burgundy can be tricky, so know your negotiant (the reseller of delicious, unctuous, and incredibly inexpensive Pinot Gris (especially someone else’s grapes or wines), grower or Domaine, region or village, from the Grand Cru sites). and vintage (there have been some very good ones lately). Some great wines, at all price points, are available but be sure to do your research, Burgundy – Beaujolais (not to be missed these days) work with a trusted importer, and try to taste the wines before committing Eschew the lighter, fruity, carbonic maceration produced incarnations to purchase them. Often available in extremely limited quantities and at for the traditionally vinified versions of Gamay offered from ten named heart stopping prices, with careful selection these can be some of the villages or Crus–Morgon, Moulin-au-Vent, and Brouilly are some of my most ethereal and delicate (yet complex) wines you’ll ever taste. favourites. Bordeaux Burgundy (white) Famous for the 1855 classed growths or Crus, these are not just high- A string of great vintages (except some difficulties in 2016) since the late priced red wines anymore. At the lower and mid-price points, the reds 2000s has resulted in some awesome wines even from the value driven 14 The Quarterly Pour
from the Medoc and Haut Medoc (the bulk of the regions production) Provence are comprising increasing amounts of Merlot in the normally Cabernet The classic region famous for rosé wines is enjoying renewed popularity Sauvignon dominant blends to provide plumper, more approachable as people are enjoying dry pink wines in ever increasing quantities. wines in their youth. And finally, there is reason for some real excitement Discover the Grenache-based sweet red wines from Banyuls. Some for the whites, especially those from the Entre Deux Mer region. The very old vintages are available in the market for surprisingly low prices whites of Bordeaux are seeing ever increasing amounts of Sauvignon considering their age. Blanc (as opposed to the traditional Semillon) and decreasing amounts of oak (including some exclusively stainless-steel versions) so the end Languedoc-Roussillon result is fresher, brighter wines more similar to the New World style as This is one of the more exciting regions in France today for both quality, opposed to the flabby, oxidated, over-oaked versions of old. Check diversity, and value. Great lighter wines from PicPoul and rich, value them out and don’t overlook some of the more moderately priced white driven Viogniers are especially impressive whites, but even more exciting and red wines. There are tremendous values in the teens to mid-20’s are the generous, muscular, and powerful reds. Syrah has always led the price points. charge and the exploitation of established communes like Faugeres, St. Chinian, Minervois, and La Clape are allowing the true potential of the Champagne terroir to be unleashed. Producers like Gerard Bertrand are identifying The big houses have long dominated this scene. But now, grower superior sites that anywhere else would achieve ‘Grand Cru’ status. champagnes, which are made in much smaller quantities from producer- Producers are crafting wines that could command ten times the price owned plots of land are making flavourful bubble at all price points. if they were to have come from more storied regions like the Northern Rhone, Burgundy, or Bordeaux. Also, you can find some expansive, Loire Valley brooding reds dominant in Mouvedre (popularly known as Monastrell Nantais - Muscadet is great as a light white aperitif and ideal with in eastern Spain). seafood (oysters on the half shell!) and young cheese. Drink young and These wines are classics and you need to be aware of them. But the cold! Premium versions are often from the Sevre Maine area, which takes more well-known and established regions aren’t what is causing the its name from the two rivers that flow through the vineyards. greatest stir in the sommelier community. Anjou – Saumur/Touraine - This is probably the most underappreciated area in France after Alsace. For a unique, delicate expression of Cabernet Emerging Regions Franc, look to the region of Chinon. Throughout the region, the whites Look for fresher, less oxidized wines from the Jura of both traditional made from Chenin Blanc (both dry and sweet) are a revelation of this grapes like Savagnin, Poulsard, and Trousseau, and international grape’s potential. You can find famous and reliable dry and off dry rosé varieties like Chardonnay. Deep, tannic reds made from Tannat are a real made from Cab Franc and Grolleau. treat when sourced from Madiran in Southwest France near Bordeaux. Central Vineyards - Sancerre/Pouilly Fume - This region produces a The Tannat grape has enough structure to age for long periods produces Classic bone-dry version of Sauvignon Blanc, which is steely and crisp. seductive and sensual reds. Even the younger wines it will stand up The wines of Pouilly Fume have a smoky nuance owed to gunflint soils. to the most intense of dishes. Now that Argentina has created global acceptance for the Malbec grape to stand alone in a bottle of wine, give the wines of Cahor a try. Malbec, known locally as Cot, has long Northern Rhone been the majority component of the red wines of this region. Dark and The northern region comprises only 5% of the overall Rhone’s total brooding, these powerful reds provide great drinking enjoyment on their volume, but produces some of the valley’s most famous wines, such as own and are a delight when paired with grilled meat and/or vegetables. Hermitage and Cote Rotie, which are rich, deep, and powerful versions There is a reason France is revered all over the world for their wine of Syrah. Keep an eye out for some exciting developments in the whites producing prowess. The better known, more established regions are as well. The exotic and heady Viogniers from Condrieu and the exclusive building on their strengths producing a string of good vintages. But the Chateau Grillet will redefine your expectations for wine from this grape. real excitement is getting generated by the emerging regions that are seeing increasing investment and care as entrepreneurial winemakers Southern Rhone are forced economically to explore these lesser known areas. Look for Look for great value, and exciting red wines from the villages including real value and interesting wines from yet to be discovered grape varietals. Seguret, Gigondas, Vacqueryas, and Rasteau made from an extensive Ask your reps if they have some great values or unique wines from blend of varieties (a total of 13 with Grenache, Cinsault, Carignan, and these emerging regions. Your staff will like being able to offer something Syrah often dominant). The classic red wines of Chateauneuf-de-Pape different and your customers will enjoy the opportunity to experience are being given a run for their money by the marked improvements in something new. Viva la France! the whites of the Southern Rhone, and consumers’ interest in wines made from grapes other than Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay like Tim Ellison is a Certified Sommelier & Chef de Cuisine that has dedicated Grenache Blanc, Rousanne, and Marsanne. Don’t overlook the serious over 45 years to a career in the hospitality industry including running rosé wines of Tavel, which are grown on the right bank of the Rhone. the Medoc Marathon in 2011. Currently, Tim is Director of Sales at the Surprisingly powerful for rosés, they make a credible substitute for red prestigious Vancouver Club. tim@vancouverclub.ca wine on a hot summer day. The Quarterly Pour 15
VILLAGE LIQUOR STORE How Village Liquor Store Makes Life Better for Everyone on Gabriola Island by Joanne Sasvari It is said that no man is an island, and no one knows that better than a found himself working in English pubs and discovered that he enjoyed man who actually works on one. it much more than science. “I liked the people side of things,” he says. “When you have a business like this on a small island, you can make He studied hospitality at university in the UK, then came back to BC a big difference,” says Michael Brown, the owner of the Village Liquor where he worked at Vancouver’s Pan Pacific Hotel before buying a Store in Gabriola Island. fine dining restaurant in West Vancouver. Around the time he closed Gabriola is a speck of land in the Strait of Georgia, about five kilometres the restaurant he heard that a pub was up for sale on one of the Gulf and a 20-minute ferry ride east of Nanaimo. About 4,000 people, many Islands, and went to check it out. And just like that he was the owner of them artists, call its 57.6 sq. km. home, and a good number of them of the Surf Pub and a resident of Gabriola Island. frequent the Village Liquor Store. “I’d never been to Gabriola before, never even knew it existed,” he says. Located in the FolkLife Village mall, the store is a wood-and-glass Four years later, he bought Silva Bay Resort & Marina, then he structure with a rustic ambiance, a lofty 1,800-sq.-ft. space with walls switched gears and opened the liquor store. “Before it opened, there and shelves crafted from wood, and a giant mural of local characters was only the government store,” he notes. “It was at the far end of the painted by a local artist. island, and it used to close down between 12 and 1 every day for lunch.” “The entire store was built and designed by Gabriola. I’m a huge Village Liquor tries to fill the gaps that the government store can’t fill, not advocate for keeping everything on the island,” Brown says. “This is all just in terms of service, but also product. “We sell basically everything–wine, about people. It’s about our staff and our customers.” beer, spirits, cider,” says Manager, Adam Giles. “We have a focus on Brown opened the store in 2004. It wasn’t, to be sure, his first career international wines as many of our customers are looking for something they plan. Originally from West Vancouver, about 30 years ago he was can’t find at a government store. And I like to boast that we have one of the studying science at UBC when he decided to take time off to travel. He best selections of scotch in the province. It’s a very well curated selection.” 16 The Quarterly Pour
It’s a feeling of pride to support local businesses. In addition to all the inexpensive Spanish and Chilean wines, high- end French and Italian vintages, Japanese sakes and Mexican mezcals, Village Liquor showcases local wine, craft beer, and artisan spirits from distilleries including Sheringham, DeVine, Wayward and Shelter Point. As Giles says, “We try to focus on Vancouver Island because it’s closer to home and it’s a feeling of pride to support local businesses.” And for the past three years, he’s donated 1% of sales during the busy Giles and Brown also make sure the staff are well trained on those summer season, about $6,000 annually, to local charities– “anyone who products. Brown likes to boast that the newest staff member has been has a good cause.” This year, he plans to start early because he figures with the store for five years. “I do not have staff turnover. I love my staff. people will need the help more than ever. I treat them like my family,” he says. He himself works in the store, and Brown no longer lives on Gabriola because he has teenage children believes an owner should “never ask your staff to do anything you and the island doesn’t have a high school. However, he still works there, wouldn’t do.” And yes, that includes cleaning the toilets. cares for the community, and shows just what a difference a small He also believes in supporting community however he can. For business can make. instance, a few years ago, he moved the store from its original location “When you’re a business in a small community, to give back to to allow the local library to expand. “It was for the good of the island,” that community is huge,” Brown says. “And in return, the community he says. supports you.” The Quarterly Pour 17
10 Food Trends for 2020 How COVID-19 has (and hasn’t) Affected our Drinking and Dining Habits by J oa n n e Sasva r i As 2020 dawned, trend spotters figured they had a handle on what we’d Vancouver or the Black Bear in Lynn Valley. (The restaurant collaborative be eating and drinking in this new decade. (Oat milk figured heavily.) Then, Breaking Bread has compiled a growing list at breakingbreadnow.com.) only a few weeks later, a global pandemic changed everything. Now it’s This has led to a huge rise in the use of food delivery services like Skip fair to say that COVID-19 will affect every aspect of our lives for some the Dishes, Uber Eats, and Door Dash. These services have helped time to come. It will change society in a myriad of ways, big and small, in establishments stay open, but at a cost of hefty fees that add one more the short term and the long. It will, above all, expensive item to a pub’s bottom line. alter the way we socialize, celebrate events, The turn to takeout has also affected and share our meals. But COVID-19 aside, there are other Hearty and the type of food that is being served. Takeout, after all, needs to be sturdy comforting handhelds, changes in the way we’re eating and enough to survive the journey in an drinking in 2020, most of them patterns that insulated bag. That means fussy began in 2019 or even earlier. Here are the food is out; hearty and comforting biggest trends we’re seeing on the plate, in the glass, and in the clamshell container. curries, pastas, and handhelds, curries, pastas, and salads are in. Of course, this is exactly the sort 1. Total Takeout salads are in. of satisfying cuisine most pubs have been serving for decades. The biggest, most fundamental change in 2020 has been the pivot from dining in to takeout and delivery. In March, 2. Supporting Local we were all sent home to “flatten the curve” of the pandemic, and only It’s too early to assess the full economic impact of COVID-19, but it’s essential services were allowed to keep operating. Pubs and restaurants not too early to sense that, more than ever, we want to support our were among the first businesses to shut their doors, the exceptions neighbours: the people who grow our food, bake our bread, brew our being those who offered takeout and delivery, such as Darby’s Pub in beer, make our cheese, raise our chickens, and distill our spirits. BC 18 The Quarterly Pour
has long been in the forefront of locavorism, and we can expect that movement to grow as the province recovers from the pandemic. The BC Wine Institute, for instance, is already urging consumers to buy local wine as a key message of its response and recovery efforts. 3. Low (and No) Proof Drinks Over the past couple of years, the “sober curious” movement has been growing and is expected to continue doing so, especially with Nielsen reporting that two-thirds of millennials say they are making a conscious effort to reduce their alcohol consumption. Low- and no-proof cocktails allow everyone to join the party, as do 5% ABV hard seltzers like Nude, Nütrl and White Claw, which has just entered the Canadian market. Consumers are also looking for thirst quenchers that are naturally low in alcohol but big in flavour, like vermouth and spritzes. 4. Flexitarianism Even consumers who still enjoy the occasional steak are eating less meat these days. In part it’s because of the number of new, plant-based proteins like Beyond Meat, which have made it easy to skip the beef without sacrificing the flavour or the pleasure in your burger. Fake meat The Quarterly Pour 19
aside, consumers are simply craving lighter and veggier fare, which is 8. Non-dairy Milk and Butters considered to be better for our bodies and the planet. About two-thirds of the world’s adult population struggles to digest lactose, the sugar found in dairy products like milk and butter. That, coupled with 5. Fermentation a growing awareness of the environmental impact of dairy herds, has led In food and drink, fermentation is the process of converting carbohydrates Canadians to seek alternatives to dairy–we already consume 20% less of to alcohol or organic acids using microorganisms such as yeasts it today than we did in 2009. Oat and soy milks made a splash in 2019; or bacteria. More appetizingly, it’s how grain becomes beer, grapes expect to see them used increasingly in products like chocolate, ice cream, become wine, milk becomes cheese, and flour becomes sourdough and yogurt. Also look for plant-based milks made from flax, sunflower, bread. These transformative foods have the deep, complex flavours and hemp seeds as well as vegan seed and nut butters. we’re craving now, and are thought to It seems nothing can improve gut health, too. So raise a glass of 9. Flour Dust-up kombucha and join the fermentation party. A few years ago, all a baker could find on grocery shelves was industrially 6. Korean Food Speaking of fermentation, it seems quell our love for produced wheat flour, which is heavily processed with chemicals including kimchi. nothing can quell our love for kimchi, bleach, stabilizers, and preservatives. the spicy Korean side dish of salted and Since then, there has been a growing fermented vegetables. In fact, according excitement about freshly milled organic to Yelp, we’re loving all Korean foods right now–bulgogi (barbecued flours from ancient grains like spelt, kamut, and einkorn as well as beef strips), bibimpap (mixed rice bowls), and the side dishes heritage wheat such as the warmly nutty Red Fife. These flours are collectively called banchan, all of it slathered in gochujang, the sweet- more flavourful and more nutritious, and are rekindling our love of carbs. spicy-savoury fermented chili paste that tastes so good on everything. 10. Less Food Waste 7. Less Sugar/Better Sugar There’s nothing like a global pandemic to make you aware of just how Every decade has its health bugaboo–cholesterol in the 1970s, carbs in much food you’re wasting, right? The Commission for Environmental the 2010s–and the 2020s are no different. Now it’s sugar’s turn in the Cooperation has estimated that Canadians waste 85 kilograms of food nutritional penalty box. Refined sugars are linked to a host of chronic per person per year, and in recent years we’ve been trying to reduce illnesses, and they lurk in three-quarters of processed foods. Now the US that amount. Sort of. But in 2020, with food prices projected to increase Food and Drug Administration has mandated that nutrition labels show 4% even before COVID-19 emptied store shelves, we can expect those an “added sugars” value. As a result, experts anticipate that consumers efforts to get serious. and manufacturers alike will reduce sugar use. Meanwhile, consumers In short, food in 2020 will be better for our health, better for society, are seeking sweetness in less refined products like sorghum syrup. and better for the planet. And that’s a pretty palatable trend. 20 The Quarterly Pour
» names in the news by Pamela Gray Awards 2020 New World International Wine Competition 2020 Canadian Artisan Spirit Awards Congratulations to Fort Berens Estate Winery (Lillooet, BC) that received Congratulations to all the BC 2020 Canadian Spirit Award Winners! a silver medal for their 2018 Chardonnay and a bronze medal for their Artisan Spirit of the Year - Sheringham Distillery (BC)- Kazuki Gin 2017 Meritage Merlot. Best in Class/Distinction - Arbutus Distillery (BC) - Arbutus Barrel For a complete list of winners visit: www.nwiwc.com/results.html Aged Absinthe Best in Class - Monashee Spirits Craft Distillery (BC) - Garlic Vodka The Vancouver International Wine Festival Best in Class - Old Society Spirits (BC) - Bittersweet Vermouth The Vancouver International Wine Festival announced the 2020 trade Best in Class/Distinction - Merridale Cidery & Distillery (BC) - Cowichan competition winners at Celebrating Excellence, a program honouring Spiced Rum professionals who contribute to BC’s exceptional wine and food culture. Best in Class/Distinction - Shelter Point Distillery (BC) - Shelter Point Congratulations to the following award winners: Single Malt Spirited Industry Professional Award - Dana Lee Harris For a complete list of winners visit: https:/artisandistillers.ca/2020-results 2020 Sommelier of the Year Award - Peter Van de Reep For a complete list of winners visit: https://vanwinefest.ca / 2020 World Gin Awards blog/2020/02/28/2020-trade-competition-winners/ Congratulations to all the 2020 Canadian Winners! Country Winner - Compass Distillery Gin Royal (NS) - Contemporary Gin Appointments Gold Winner - Seventh Heaven (QC) - Premium Dry Gin Krista Bax has been appointed as CEO of go2HR–BC’s tourism human Silver Winner - Collective Arts Distillery (ON)- Artisanal Dry Gin resource association. Bax is poised to lead go2HR on an exciting new path Bronze Winner - Wabasso (QC) - Wabasso Gin forward after the organization underwent significant changes last year. For a complete list of winners visit: www.worldginawards.com/winner/ She has more than 20 years of experience in various strategic leadership Gin/2020/taste roles. Prior to joining go2HR, she was the Senior Vice President, Western Canada at Context, a strategic engagement and communications firm. The Quarterly Pour 21
Counting what Counts Analyzing Trends to Increase Performance by Ta n i a M o ffat Not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that Finding the Right Data counts can be counted. - Albert Einstein Private liquor stores and pubs in BC can find reliable information on provincial trends from the Alliance of Beverage Licenses (ABLE BC), Endless amounts of information bombard us in our daily lives. It seems BC Liquor Distribution Branch (LDB), and BC Wine Institute. data is gathered on everything. To the masses, this may seem trivial, but the The LDB publishes an Annual Service Plan Report covering the right information–reliably sourced and correctly interpreted–can provide previous fiscal every July. The report outlines business efficiencies, businesses with invaluable insight into many facets of their operations. improvement processes, and sales trends within their stores for the prior year. These reports can be found online under reports at www. Not All Data is Equal bcldb.com. Historical information can be used to provide cause and effect details The LDB’s Hospitality and Wholesale Liquor Market Reviews record about past successes and failures. Predictive analysis can help to provincial sales from all channels for beer, refreshment beverages, spirits forecast future trends. Traffic patterns and product trends can assist with and wine. Sales are further broken down in each category and are meeting customer needs at the service level and identify what products provided in net dollar values and litres. Summarized data for the current are ‘hot’ and which ones aren’t. Demographics can identify your target quarter and previous four quarters can also be found on their website. customer and the most successful marketing vehicles to reach them. Liquor retail stores can find industry benchmarks in the second Financial data and market research can provide benchmarks for your annual LRS Benchmark survey conducted by ABLE BC in partnership business and guidance on how to reduce costs and increase sales. with Paul Rickett, VARKeting! An overview was published in the The benefits of analyzing data trends are as endless as the data itself. Spring issue of The Quarterly Pour and detailed. Results can be found Before you rush out to start gathering intel though, do some research. on www.ablebc.ca under Advocacy. Not all data is equal. If you want to make informed decisions that are based on industry facts, you need to use information that has been Getting help gathered by a reputable source in an unbiased manner. Government Let’s face it; most people don’t find analytics to be the most exciting way sourced statistics and independent market research companies are often to pass the time. If you are statistics savvy, go crazy and breakdown excellent places to start. If you want to understand how your business that data on your own. For those who would rather leave the number stacks up against industry norms, you need to start asking questions crunching to someone else, experts can assist with making the and compare similar data. Wine sales in small-town Missouri won’t have information more digestible. Sometimes, finding an analyst is the most much relevance to Vancouver’s retail wine market. efficient and reliable way to analyze market trends. 22 The Quarterly Pour
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