LE SUN A taste of autumn - LANGUEDOC & PROVENCE - Languedoc Sun
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FREE LE SUN LANGUEDOC & PROVENCE Autumn 2018 N°69 So French... Get to know... 2CV - a motoring icon Festive fare Your driving licence Devil's Bridge A taste of autumn Jean genies Lifestyle - Culture - Events - History - Cuisine
GOOD BYE CONTENT Dear friends, 4 Introducing our contributors This will be the last issue of Le SUN you’ll be reading for the time 5 Cover artist: Annette Morris being – in a magazine format, at least. Lifestyle My children have now both left home to study, and so it’s time for a 6 Forever in blue jeans change of direction for me as publisher. Le SUN has been a huge part 22 Mother without a hood of my life since I arrived back in France after living in the UK for many years. I co-founded the English-speaking BritsNîmes association in Artist & Artisans global advertising local expertise 2004, and then started the magazine two years later, as I wanted to 8 Ian Berry - a world in denim share all the invaluable information that came out of the association’s 18 The Lachize jewellers meetings in writing so that everybody could benefit. The magazine has been a fantastic adventure – meeting so many Meet the authors wonderful people, numerous discoveries, learning so much, 10 Gayle Smith Padgett travelling, visiting, eating... I’ve enjoyed every minute! 11 Barbara Farber As the mother of two Anglo-French kids, Le SUN has also helped me Culture & History enormously on a personal basis through the years, including your 14 The 2CV at 70 feedback and articles on raising bilingual children, experiences 20 Aniane and the Devil's Bridge with mixed-nationality couples, stories of expat life and much more – it’s so important to feel we are not alone. In the Know I would like to thank all of you - my lovely team (past and present), 16 Exchanging your driving licence our contributors and you, our readers, you’ve given us so much RÉF. 2247937 RÉF. 2234664 energy and positivity through the years. Liquid assets UZES 290 000 € LE CAILAR 631 500 € I would also like to thank all our advertisers who’ve made the 24 Drinking in a winter wine-derland! magazine possible over the years - and a special “thank you” goes to AXA agence Stoker in Nîmes, who have supported us from the Cuisine very beginning. However, even though the magazine itself is no 26 Festive, fun and easy more, we’ll be continuing to post articles and items of interest on our Facebook page, so why not check in and join us on www. 28 Sun Pages facebook.com/LPSUN to keep up with what’s going on? Thank you again – it’s been a wonderful 12-year journey, and you will all stay in my heart and my memory forever. Laurence Boxall RÉF. 2111437 RÉF. 2209732 SAINT AMBROIX 527 000 € NIMES 649 000 € DIRECTRICE DE LA PUBLICATION RÉGIE PUBLICITAIRE RÉGIE PUBLICITAIRE RÉDACTRICE EN CHEF PUBLISHER ADVERTISING ADVERTISING EDITOR Provence: Languedoc: Merci de ne pas jeter sur la voie publique Laurence Boxall Griet Meeus Vincent Mallard Sian Griffiths Bell 06 85 54 68 87 06 02 25 94 33 06 61 74 89 70 contact@languedocsun.com griet@languedocsun.com vincent@languedocsun.com sian@languedocsun.com RÉF. 444071 RÉF. 2318271 ALES 295 000 € NIMES 485 000 € LE SUN, 17 rue des Bartavelles, 30132 Caissargues, France www.leSUN.fr Published by Association Languedoc News. Dépot légal à parution ISSN 2257-4859 All material copyright©2018 Tél. +33 (0)4 22 32 60 40 � contact@blue-square.com The Publisher cannot be held liable for any loss or damage suffered as a result of information herein, nor accept responsibility for views expressed by contributors and advertisers. L’éditeur décline toutes responsabilités pour les textes et publicités insérés qui n’engagent que les annonceurs. La rédaction n’est pas responsable des points de vue exprimés dans les témoignages. Gard � Hérault � Va u c l u s e � Bo u ch e s - d u - R h ô n e � Va r � Alpes Maritimes Autumn 2018 Le SUN 3
OUR CONTRIBUTORS TO THIS ISSUE Cover artist: Annette Morris Be part of it — tell us who you are, where you live and what you're doing! A freelance website designer and If you have an interest in sketching, We want to know what’s happening where you are, what you think of our magazine and what you'd like to marketing consultant, Annette is drawing or painting, finding out see in it, so please feel free to get in touch with us: contact@languedocsun.com also the founder of Urban Sketchers more about Urban Sketchers Languedoc (a local chapter of Languedoc or taking part in one Nicole Hammond is a bilingual the internationally recognised of Annette’s workshops, follow Brit who has been living in the Sian Griffiths Bell enjoyed community) and Director of ErinHill the Sketch Languedoc Facebook Languedoc region since 2002. a long career in the luxury Sketching France. page for details www.facebook. With a wealth of experience of hospitality industry, ranging from com/sketchlanguedoc French life - including seven years working on the QE2 to heading up Annette organises a meet-up in real estate, French-to-English PR and communications for the for Urban Sketchers Languedoc The sketch featured on the cover translation, teaching, marriage, world’s oldest international luxury at least once a month in a was all done on location not far divorce, childbirth, three property hotel company in Hong Kong. She variety of locations. These are from her home, and includes renovations and running her own moved to Nîmes and immediately free events for anyone with an her yellow Citroën 2CV - also business - Nicole is the Administrative Assistance headed back to school in Paris to study for her interest in painting or drawing to known as ‘Beryl’. You can watch Coordinator for Renestance, providing useful French government tour guide licence. She now get together and sketch to share the video of her putting pen to information and personal assistance to help English- offers bespoke visits to Nîmes and the surrounding their own artistic impressions of paper on YouTube http://bit.ly/ A speakers navigate French administration and enjoy area, in addition to writing, editing and translation. nnette has been living and this wonderful region. sketchlanguedocyoutube life in France to the fullest. working in Hérault since Matthew Saunders is a wine 2008. She has been creative Having worked in watercolour, professional with over 25 years all her life, holding her first art gouache, pastels, oils and acrylic, of experience in the Languedoc. exhibition in 1995 and undertaking and using brushes, palette knives, Rachel Pollard was born and dozens of commissions since. One charcoal, pens and pencils, bred in Northern Ireland, and Combining his experience acquired whilst specialising in French wine of her paintings was selected Annette’s sketching gets back to spent the last 17 years abroad. to represent a National Park, basics with ink and watercolour Before venturing to France, she for Oddbins in the UK (where he studied with the WSET — the but sales have never been her for speed, portability and lived in Hong Kong for 10 years primary focus. practicality. working in travel, art and lifestyle Wine & Spirit Education Trust) and PR. Now based in Saint-Rémy- living very much as a native in his de-Provence, she spends the adopted home of the Languedoc, he now spends his majority of her time looking after time running a thriving wine tourism business, Taste du her newborn baby and her toddler, exploring, and Languedoc, and Inspiré Azille, a wine bar in Azille in attempting to better her French accent. the Minervois. Barbara Farber was born in the Janice Lert lives in Le Paradou in United States. She and her husband the Alpilles hills. She is an American have spent most of their adult lives who married an Arlesian man in in Europe, mainly in Amsterdam. 1969 and has been living in Provence 2 for 1 discount After several years designing ever since. She was a French children’s clothes, she changed teacher in the US, and since moving careers and opened Galerie to Provence has held a variety of Barbara Farber, an avant-garde jobs. Now partially retired, she still contemporary art gallery, which continues her main professional activities: guiding and became internationally renowned. The couple moved translating. Her work as a guide for the Tourist Office to Provence 20 years ago, and Barbara has written in Arles has given her access to information in French Save money on eating A prestigious many humorous articles on life in Provence for various about Provençal monuments and culture not regularly out at restaurants, Christmas gift publications. available to English-speakers. outings or cinemas for you, your - over 100 locations family or Gayle Smith Padgett A UCLA graduate with two master’s degrees (neither in French), studies in Mexico and South America and a career as a language specialist in the USA and later friends as a management analyst and US government liaison in Germany, she discovered Provence on honeymoon over 25 years ago. The love affair with France continues to this day - in retirement, www.guide-prestige.com she and her husband made France home, spending 18 months in Aix-en-Provence before moving to Saint-Rémy-de-Provence, where they’ve lived for six years. Her debut memoir, Passion for The card is just €139 for one year, saving you up to €10,000! Provence: 22 Keys to La Belle Vie, tells the tale of their French adventures — so far. 4 Autumn 2018 Le SUN Autumn 2018 Le SUN 5
Lifestyle by Sian Griffiths Bell is now on display in jeans in-house the new shop) and before too long. a retired weaver taught me how Meanwhile word to use it, while a is getting out tailor in Marseille – Les Ateliers Immortalised by Neil Diamond, while jeans are often associated with the USA, denim actually instructed me how de Nîmes have originates from the city of Nîmes - and now a small company has started making jeans in the to make jeans.” been featured birthplace of denim. in local, national The term ‘denim’ and international From a history degree and internet marketing career in Paris to singlehandedly trying to revive derives from the press, including Nîmes’ denim heritage, Guillaume Sagot has his work cut out for him. French serge de the New York The young nîmois had always been fascinated by the town’s textile history, and in particular Nîmes, meaning Times, Monocle, its claim to fame as the home of denim - “de Nîmes”. In 2014, at the age of 28 years, he made ‘serge (a sturdy Bonnegueule, fabric) from Nîmes. BBC World, a childhood dream come true by creating Les Ateliers de Nîmes, paying tribute to the city’s The town once had a booming of exciting developments over the France 3 and M6. A partnership with textile heritage and legendary canvas. textile industry, and in the 18th next few months. Sagot has just students of the city’s Lycée Ernest and 19th centuries was home to opened his own shop in the centre Hemingway created a collection of large textile factories producing of Nîmes, showcasing his loom denim-based fashions exhibited cotton, wool and silk fabrics and and a display of archive photos around town, while another garments. Many of these fabrics showing denim production in marketing initiative, in conjunction were exported to North America, Nîmes in former times. with Château Beaubois, sees a including serge de Nîmes, limited-edition red wine which caught the eye of showcasing a stunning hand- businessman Levi Strauss made denim label created in the 1860s. He bought it Sagot made a childhood dream by Les Ateliers. Only 1,000 originally for the canopies come true by creating bottles have been produced, of gold prospectors’ Les Ateliers de Nîmes, paying with all profits going to the covered wagons, but later Ateliers’ heritage efforts. repurposed it to create tribute to the city’s textile workwear – and the rest heritage and legendary canvas In addition to the Ateliers’ is history. Nîmes shop, the men’s and ladies’ jeans collections At the turn of the 20th century, textile Meanwhile, with the ultimate aim are available in various high- production in the city slowed down, of bringing everything – fabric end boutiques in France and with denim production moving to production, cutting, stitching and Switzerland, and online. Jackets cheaper locations in Europe and finishing – back to Nîmes, Les Ateliers and bags are planned for 2019, then Asia, and then vanishing from launched a successful crowd-funding with made-to-measure jeans on the region altogether. Today over exercise earlier this year, resulting the horizon. Jeans start at €120 80% of denim is produced in Asia, in the purchase of two vintage looms per pair, and as Sagot explains, “our while the few denim mills left in dating from the 1950s. Originally jeans are for people who really Europe and North America are made in Ypres in Belgium and used appreciate good denim, want jeans closing as demand for top-quality for weaving denim in the original that last and are distinctive. Each denim falls, with synthetic fibres, jean manufacturing area in northern pair is hand-made, so you know such as polyester, blended with Italy, the looms have not been used that the jeans you are wearing are cotton to reduce costs. for years, but are being given a completely unique – and you’re new lease of life by a specialist contributing to the revival of one There is little left in the city to technician - the last remaining of the world’s most famous textiles With the aim of “ramenons le made in France from top-quality for finishing by Sagot, including testify to Nîmes’ once thriving person in Europe familiar with these in its own birthplace.” denim à la maison” (“bringing fabrics. While denim itself is no inserting brass rivets and adding textile industry, but Sagot and his looms. After training in Italy, Sagot denim home”) and in partnership longer produced in France, Sagot the distinctive Ateliers de Nîmes partners remains upbeat. Their starts weaving his own denim in with his two associates, Anthony currently sources his from Venice leather patch. ambition is to produce jeans October, aiming to produce around Dubos and Clément Payen, Sagot and Milan, and then hand-cuts entirely made in Nîmes – and to 30 metres of 90cm-wide fabric a LES ATELIERS DE NÎMES has set himself the challenge of the jeans himself in his studio in “I had to start completely from launch a denim museum in Nîmes day in a spacious new studio. With 2 Rue Auguste Pellet reviving the city’s former savoir- Nîmes following his own paper scratch, as there’s no-one left in in the future. weaving no longer taught in France, 30000 Nîmes faire, or know-how. The brand is patterns. The pieces are then Nîmes who can make jeans,” says finding staff is a major challenge, developing hand-crafted, high-end sent to Marseille and Paris for Sagot. “I do most of the work myself The company is on track to but Sagot is confident all will work ateliersdenimes.com jeans for men and women, 100% stitching, before returning to Nîmes by hand - I had a loom built (which achieve these aims, with a series out and he’ll be producing his own 6 Autumn 2018 Le SUN Autumn 2018 Le SUN 7
Artist non-French beneficiary) since its manages to create the impression of bold, with each picture taking about inception some 30 years ago. gleaming metal, polished surfaces one month to complete and using Ian Berry - a world in denim He first started working with and shiny tiled floors. denim when he looked at a pile of His first denim images were between 10-20 different pairs of jeans. His London studio regularly has around 2,000 pairs of jeans No Paint. No Bleach. No Dyes. Just Jeans. jeans in his old bedroom at home portraits of iconic jeans-wearers, at any given moment, offering an in Huddersfield, and noticed the including James Dean, Marilyn extensive variety of textures, contrasting shades and textures Monroe and Debbie Harry. Since wear-and-tear and shades of blue, of blue. He started cutting and then, he has been commissioned to in order to give him the widest glueing on his bedroom floor, and produce official portraits of Harry possible choice when creating his quickly became celebrated as one and Dean, with his James Dean art. Jeans are donated to him by of the Top 30 Artists Under 30, with portrait taking pride of place in individuals and companies, ranging his work displayed in galleries, Dean’s hometown of Fairmount, from friends and neighbours to museums and art fairs around Indiana. Other commissions include brands and denim mills. Parts of the the world, along with solo Secret Garden were created shows in London, Europe from some of the last-ever At first glance, Ian Berry’s works and the USA - including the Ayrton Senna's portrait was denim produced at the Cone look like blue-toned photos or home of modern jeans, San Mills White Oak plant – the created with denim belonging to paintings, especially if you see Francisco. last major mill in the USA - Senna’s own family members which closed last year. them online or in print. However Now based in London, it’s only when you look closer Photos dr his works focus on the Published in March this that you realise that these changing fabric of the city, year, his book Denim on œuvres are made up of myriad ranging from incredibly detailed Giorgio Armani, Jennifer Saunders, Denim features over 110 images pieces and shades of denim street scenes, luxury interiors, supermodel Giselle Bundchen and of his work, specifically exploring – hundreds and thousands of launderettes, CCTV “images” and designer Lapo Elkann (responsible the urban environment and issues tiny fragments of denim jeans, On his lightning visit, Ian visited townspeople also got involved more. A series of denim works on for the denim-covered SMEG fridge of community (or lack of), which painstakingly cut up and glued the Carré d’Art Jean Bousquet by learning to make the denim New York includes a life-size New and Ferrari car), while his 2014 is what drives Ian’s creativity. and the denim display at the roses that became such an iconic York newsstand complete with portrait of Ayrton Senna was created “I’m depicting contemporary into place to form incredibly Musée du Vieux Nîmes, and symbol of the installation. While magazine covers, chocolate bars with denim from the jeans belonging life, so what better material to detailed works of art. also met with Les Ateliers de some of the roses were kept by and a vending machine, while to Senna’s own family members. portray it with than the material Emerging as an exciting Nîmes’ founder Guillaume Sagot their creators, others have found another series on traditional of our time – denim jeans,” young British artist over the (see story on page 6) and other their way to San Francisco as American diners intriguingly Ian’s images are usually big and smiles Berry. last decade, today Ian is cultural influencers. part of Ian’s next horticultural internationally known for his installation, located in the new SF A former school in Labastide- Flower Mart development. works made solely out of pairs Rouairoux was the location of jeans, creating stunning for Berry’s “Secret Garden” “Being Artist-in-Residence at trompe l’œil pieces resembling installation – a stunning garden Labastide-Rouairoux was an indigo-hued paintings and setting composed entirely of amazing experience,” said Berry. photos. old jeans, which was inspired “It’s a wonderful old textile Le SUN caught up with the by his 2017 installation in the town, and – like my hometown of Children’s Museum of the Arts Huddersfield - it’s sad to see how 35-year-old artist during a in New York, influenced by these heritage industries have visit to Nîmes as part of his Manhattan’s community gardens. gone elsewhere for cheap labour, recent appointment as Artist- With a stream running through leaving communities devastated. in-Residence in Labastide- the work, plants, creepers, trees, However here a disused school Rouairoux in the Tarn. Berry roses, cacti – and even a life- was overtaken by nature and had long wanted to visit Nîmes size bunny rabbit and a swing reclaimed, in a material that used as the home of denim, and so - were all exquisitely fashioned to make the area successful.” his stay in the former textile from denim in myriad shades and textures. Ian was also honoured with town of Labastide-Rouairoux Labastide’s Médaille d’honneur, (the birthplace of the denim “Secret Garden” was truly a presented by Mayor Serge Lafon, stonewash effect, and just over community event for Labastide in grateful thanks for his hard two hours from Nîmes) was too – not only did the town call on work on behalf of the town – a good an opportunity to miss. its inhabitants to donate old huge honour, as he is only the For more information or to view Ian's work, visit www.ianberry.org jeans for the effort, but many fifth recipient (and the first 8 Autumn 2018 Le SUN Autumn 2018 Le SUN 9
On the Bookshelf Meet the author: Gayle Smith Padgett Passion for Provence 22 Keys to La Belle Vie honeymoon, but enjoying A Year make sense of it all? Eventually, in Provence while in Provence reflection led to insights that made the special event even became the 22 Keys to La Belle more memorable. Vie. Some keys, like how to decode France’s food-first policy And so began our long-distance and its dependence on Gallic love affair with La Belle France. shrugs, are France-centric, but 15 YEARS EXPERIENCE IN FRENCH REAL ESTATE From our base in Germany, we others have a more universal took advantage of vacation time reach— “Untether your joie to crisscross France from Alsace de vivre: Oh, the adventures Expert en Batîment (Building Surveyor) Falling for France wasn’t to île de Groix, Normandy to île you’ll have, the memories you’ll part of the Mediterranean de Porquerolles. Our flirtation make. Giddyup.” And, “Count on Expert Immobilier (Property Valuer) honeymoon agenda. Pale rosé, with France morphed into kismet to surprise: When Lady languid lunches on a sun- Luck appears, be ready to dappled terrasse, and a greet her.” Or, perhaps the Real estate agency with large foreign network dash of reckless abandon trickiest lesson—“Take in may have been to blame. Inspired by A Year in the views—from all angles: That was over 25 years Provence, our long-distance love affair with France began A sense of belonging can make a house a home and, 04 66 87 15 17 ago. At the time, my just maybe, lead to La husband, Ralph, and I had Belle Vie. or send an email to Mikel de Rooij: mikel@hcmail.fr been living in Heidelberg, Germany, for over a year. We’d amour. With retirement, Ralph For us, shaping a French life is tied the knot near Washington and I launched a quest for a a work in progress. Ralph and I We speak: DC, just a month before heading permanent nest in Provence. continue the pursuit of improving to new jobs across the Atlantic. our French and cracking cultural When an opportunity for a proper Lacking French skills and codes. But they’re happy tasks— lune de miel arrived, we decided connections, we plunged full- the allure endures. on the south of France. Since time into French life, first in Aix- Ralph is an avid birdwatcher, en-Provence for 18 months, and visiting the Camargue was high then in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence, on his bucket list, and I was where we’ve lived for six years. excited about experiencing the Provençal scenes painted by As a long-time journaling fan, some of my favorite artists— I documented our countless Cézanne, Matisse and Picasso. faux pas and lucky encounters. But there was something else. Ralph and I marvelled at our I’d just started Peter Mayle’s A talent for landing in so many Year in Provence and planned to oddball predicaments, and finish it on site. It was magical also how serendipity led us to be in luscious Provence on my to stellar encounters. How to Passion for Provence: 22 Keys to La Belle Vie is available from any book store, the Saint-Rémy Presse, Book-in-Bar in Aix-en-Provence and Amazon (paperback and Kindle) and Barnes & Noble (Nook). 10 Autumn 2018 Le SUN
You can rela ! On the Bookshelf Meet the author: Barbara Farber Surviving Provence CA Britline takes care of your - Romance, Reality and Wild Boars insurance(1) cover in France for you. v Home Insurance Contact our English flowers from my garden, the quite different from our Anglo- v Car and other vehicles stars would cry, I knew our Saxon ways. There are no life had changed. Complaining that our olive trees were not restaurant recommendations, only wonderful provençal recipes speaking advisers: producing very much, our from a friend, some with a v Top-Up Health insurance www.britline.com* Portuguese-French tree cutter delightful literary twist. suggested I talk to them. He was v And much more … Tel: 0033 (0)2 31 55 67 89* serious, and I did. The next year The house is the star of the we had 400 kilos of olives. book. It is a perfect example of Andy Warhol’s “15 minutes of Surviving Provence is a humorous Rabbits and wild boars destroy fame”, becoming much better account of the people (and our well-manicured grass. known than its owners. Among animals) who share our daily life The mail lady in her yellow other gigs, it has been a setting in the south of France. It is a far car gives cookies to our three for TV soup commercials, cry from an ode to lavender and dogs. Our pharmacist gives oversize women’s clothes for sunflowers. me a recommendation for my a Swiss mail order catalogue wrinkles, in a voice loud enough and the unveiling of the newest Although my husband and I for all his clients to profit from. Peugeot on the terrace, while were born in the United several TV series, almost States, we have spent always involving a murder the greater part of our or kidnapping, brought film lives in Europe, mostly Living here full time crews for weeks on end. in The Netherlands. is a combination of love, Leaving our working years frustration and amazement This is just a taste of what and Amsterdam behind awaits you in Surviving us, we settled into our Provence. huge white elephant of a house in Provence. The house I learn some quaint French had been ours for 20 years, but expressions from the plumber only as a destination for summer (not however, to be used in vacations. A friend told us, “You polite society!). A long-haired live in a fool’s paradise until you hippie cries because he is cutting reside here permanently,” - and down a dead tree. There are was he right! Living here full encounters with temperamental time is a combination of love, painters, carpenters, masons, frustration and amazement. hunters, firemen and spiritual beekeepers. (1)Non life insurance provided by Pacifica for property and belongings When the chicken man at our held in France, life insurance provided by Predica for residents in France local market scolded me for Of course food and wine play only. Companies regulated by the insurance code, subsidiaries of Credit Agricole Insurances. not reserving one of his roasted an important role in the book. The insurance contracts and their options are provided by PACIFICA, delicacies in advance, and the The French have very precise the insurance company, subsidiary of Crédit Agricole SA. PACIFICA: Company regulated by the «Code des Assurances». Limited company flower vendor told me if I cut eating and drinking habits, with a consolidated capital of 252,432,825� untied funds. Head office: CA Britline is a branch of the Caisse Régionale de Crédit Agricole Mutuel de Normandie - Head Office: 15, esplanade Brillaud-de-Laujardière – CS 8-10 boulevard de Vaugirard - 75724 Paris cedex 15.352 358 865 RCS 25014 - 14050 CAEN CEDEX 4 - Cooperative company with variable capital, Paris. The events guaranteed and the conditions figure in the contract. Available at Book in Bar (Aix-en-Provence) and the bookshops at the registered as a credit company - 478 834 930 RCS Caen - Insurance brokerage company registered under matricule Nr 07 022 868. CA Britline is Musée Pierre Salinger (Le Thor) and Château La Coste (Le Puy-Sainte- *Local costs apply when phoning within France from a fixed line. Check a member of the Guaranteed Fund for deposits, the Guarantee of Investors with your service provider when calling from abroad. Free access by Réparade) or on Amazon in paperback and Kindle editions. internet (excluding fees charged by your service provider) warranties, and Guaranteed Fund for investors. CA Britline is controlled by L’Autorité de Contrôle Prudentiel et de Résolution: 61 rue Taitbout – 75436 Paris Cedex 09. Autumn 2018 Le SUN 13 12 Autumn 2018 Le SUN
History by Sian Griffiths Bell In 1949 the first delivered 2CV type A was 375 cc, 9 hp, with a 65 km/h top speed, The 2CV at 70 only one tail light and a windscreen wiper which depended on the driving speed. The car was heavily criticised by the motoring press and became the butt of Seven decades of a motoring icon French comedians. One American motoring journalist quipped ‘‘Does it come with a can opener?’’, while the British Autocar Occupying an exceptional place in automobile culture and French history since 1948, the correspondent wrote that the 2CV ‘‘is the iconic Citroën 2CV (deux chevaux or deux chevaux-vapeur – literally ‘‘two steam horses’’) work of a designer who has kissed the lash of austerity with almost masochistic celebrates its 70th anniversary this year. fervour’’. However its story goes back much further. In 1934, Michelin took over the bankrupt Citroën company, and immediately commissioned a survey to help motorise France’s large rural Despite critics, Citroën was flooded population, who could not afford cars and still used horses and carts. Citroën used the survey with customer orders at the show, and results to develop a low-priced, rugged ‘‘umbrella on four wheels’’ that would enable four even within the first few days, the large people to transport 50 kg of farm goods to market at 50 km/h, if necessary across muddy, quantity of orders proved that the brand - and its visionary designers - were on to unpaved roads – including driving eggs across a freshly ploughed field without breaking any! something. Within months of its launch, there was a three-year waiting list, which In 1936, spearheaded by the others were destroyed, and soon increased to five years. At the time a Citroën’s vice-president and it was believed that only two second-hand 2CV was more expensive than chief of engineering and design prototypes had survived. a new one because the buyer did not have Pierre-Jules Boulanger, the TPV to wait. Production was increased from 876 (Toute Petite Voiture – Very However in 1994, three 1939 units in 1949 to 6,196 units in 1950. Small Car) was developed in TPVs were discovered in a barn, secrecy at Michelin’s facilities and one of these was the “guest By 1952, production had reached more at Clermont-Ferrand and at of honour” at the recent 2CV than 21,000 with export markets earning Citroën in Paris. Boulanger gathering in Uzès, organised by foreign currency taking precedence. The closely monitored all decisions the 2CV Club de l’Uzège (see policy of Boulanger – by then company on the TPV, proposing strictly left). Due to its age and fragile president – and which continued after reduced target weights, condition, this long-lost car is his death, was ‘‘Priority is given to those weighing and redesigning only displayed once every 15 who have to travel by car because of their each component to lighten the years or so, and so it was an work, and for whom ordinary cars are TPV, yet without compromising enormous coup for the Club too expensive to buy.’’ Cars were sold function. de l’Uzège – and if you missed preferentially to country vets, doctors, it this time, you can visit it at midwives, priests and small farmers, and By the end of 1937, 20 TPV printed and preparations made Citroën’s Conservatoire in Aulnay- had a great impact on the lives of the experimental prototypes had been to present the car, renamed the sur-Bois. low-income segment of the population built and tested - bare chassis with Citroën 2CV, at the forthcoming in France. rudimentary controls, seating and Paris Motor Show in October 1939. Meanwhile, with its cost a third of roof, and the test drivers wearing the price of a regular car, coupled It quickly becoming a legend - including leather flying suits, like those used However on 3 September 1939, with its modern-looking curved Roger Moore as 007 driving a yellow 2CV in open biplanes at the time. France declared war on Germany design, the 2CV was an instant in the 1981 James Bond film For Your following the invasion of Poland. An hit when it was finally unveiled at Eyes Only. By 1939, after a total of 47 atmosphere of impending disaster the Paris Motor Show in October prototypes had been built and led to the cancellation of the 1939 1948. The crowd was stunned - With a history of continuing improvements tested, the TPV was deemed motor show, and the launch of the while some laughed at its unique and innovations through the years, the ready - featuring aluminium and 2CV was abandoned. silhouette, others saw the qualities 2CV had an exceptional 42-year run, magnesium parts, innovative radial that had been missing from so many with over 5.1 million vehicles sold when tyres, hammocks as seats (hung During the German occupation of other models: simplicity, lightness, production ceased in July 1990. Today, the from the roof by wires), and only France, Citroën managers decided agility, comfort and versatility. The 2CV - affectionately called the ‘Deuche’ one headlight, all that was required to hide the TPV project from the 2CV also offered a wide range of in French - remains an icon of automotive by French law at the time. Nazis, fearing it might be used for technologies that were novel at the history, capturing the interest of collectors military purposes. Several TPVs time, such as front-wheel drive, and vintage car collectors from around the 2CV gathering in Uzès, organised by the the 2CV Club de l’Uzège. In mid-1939 a pilot run of 250 cars were buried at secret locations - soft-long travel suspension and air- world, and reaching as much as €100,000 Photos: Sian Griffiths Bell was produced, brochures were one was disguised as a pickup, all cooled two-cylinder engines. each at auction. 14 Autumn 2018 Le SUN Autumn 2018 Le SUN 15
In the Know by Nicole Hammond If I can exchange my licence, how do I do this? Driving Licence or Driver’s License? The procedure to exchange European-issued licences is different to that of non-EU licences. Whichever you have, here’s an introduction on how to get a French permis de conduire The French government has recently changed the system, so now you can only exchange a European I highlight this tiny difference as an introduction to a much bigger one! Those of us who own licence by sending the application by post to a a driving licence (UK/EU), may exchange it for a French licence (permis de conduire), as long special processing centre in Nantes. Then... as it is ‘clean.’ For those holding a driver’s license (US/Can), it’s not always as easy. Some states/provinces operate a licence exchange programme with France. However, those of you • Nantes will verify that your licence is valid for from non-exchange states will only be able to drive in France with those licenses for one year, exchange, send you a provisional French driving licence and ask you to send in your original and will need to take the French driving test to get a valid permis in France. licence. I’m a Brit writing this, so I’m going with the UK spelling of licence for this article. When should I apply? • In due course, you will then receive your definitive French licence. You need to supply proof of at least six months Australian, New Zealand & South African French Driving Schools of French residency, so you cannot apply before Driving Licences • Note: at the time of writing, the wait for the then. As an EU-licence holder, you are not obliged The driving test is in French and consists of a definitive licence is about one year from the to exchange your licence as long as you keep your These licences are exchangeable but only within a written theory test (le code de la route) and a date of the application. (driving) nose out of trouble, as stipulated here: year of your OFII-stamped arrival in France. practical driving test. You can find French driving www.service-public.fr/particuliers/vosdroits/F1758. schools who offer English-language driving courses, • Warning: you may have trouble renting a car You can find the list of all countries, including although mostly in urban areas. There is also with the provisional licence. Note: in France, you start with 12 points and they states and provinces, with a French driving licence English-language support material available to buy are reduced as you commit infractions. You lose exchange agreement in place on the online for the theory portion. Feel free to contact If you hold a non-European passport and have your right to drive when you reach zero. www.diplomatie.gouv.fr website. Renestance for driving schools and resources in a non-European licence, in principle, the English. request should be handed-in at your préfecture However, with Brexit looming, we do recommend US and Canadian licence-holders by appointment. However, each préfecture has exchanging a UK licence sooner rather than later. You need a clean licence to exchange different rules, and some allow you to drop off Non-EU licence holders should apply as soon as If your state or your paperwork for processing. There may also be a possible after six months’ residency in France. province isn’t on Remember any licence cost to exchange your licence, but this also varies the exchangeable you wish to exchange by préfecture. You may have heard other foreigners say they’ve list, and you haven’t should be clean; that is, driven for years in France on their old licence. moved to France free of any penalties, If you have an EU passport and a non-EU driving However, see the two points below for incidences yet, I know what endorsements or licence, you need to provide the same documents where the repercussions for not having exchanged you are thinking. suspensions. To prove as those required for a non-EU passport-holder, your licence can lead to problems. What if I move to this, you need to submit but you can post them to the processing centre in a state or province a document provided by Nantes. Here’s a simple table to clarify. Scary point for EU licence holders! If you with an exchange the licence-issuing body in commit an infraction that incurs a fine whilst programme, get your home country. These driving in France, you are legally obliged to a licence from documents must be under Driving Application exchange your licence within the next 12 months. there, then move to three months old at the Passport If you do not, and you try make the exchange Licence method France? Genius! Only time of exchange request. more than a year after your infraction, you will be EU EU Post there’s a snag. You denied a licence and must take the driving test in must prove you’ve lived in that state/province for UK case study: You have an old-style UK paper EU Non-EU Post France (yes, in French!). at least six months before arriving in France. licence which has expired points still showing on it. To prove that your licence is now free of Non-EU EU Post Warning! If you commit an infraction or have an But there’s an additional warning for Canadian endorsements, you should ask the DVLA to send Appointment accident, and your driving licence is not valid in Non-EU Non-EU licence-holders. Canadians have a year to you a Certificate of Entitlement (request by phone, at préfecture France, your car insurance will not cover anything. exchange their licence if their issuing province has post or online). an exchange programme with France. If the issuing Exception for Paris residents who wish to If you need a hand applying for your French driving state is not in the exchange list, you have only US case study: You have had a Maryland licence exchange any type of foreign licence - this should licence, whether that be through exchange or THREE MONTHS to register with a French driving since you were 16 and have now decided to retire be done by post. taking a French test, Renestance can guide you school and subsequently take the French two-part in the Mediterranean sun. Contact the Motor through the process. Bonne route! driving test. Vehicle Administration in Maryland and order an Old French paper licences are slowly being original of your Certified Driving Record online. replaced with modern, laminated cards. www.renestance.com +33 (0)4 11 93 25 99 - contact@renestance.com 16 Autumn 2018 Le SUN Autumn 2018 Le SUN 17
Artisan by Sian Griffiths Bell Monumental inspirations Photos © B. Trouillet Like most other French towns, Nîmes has a number of jewellery shops and jewellers skilled in creating bespoke VISIT SAINT-GILLES pieces for clients. However in the pedestrianised mediaeval Écusson district at 31 rue de la Madeleine lies a bijouterie with a difference. CAMARGUE & OCCITANIE tourisme.saint-gilles.fr 0033 (0)4 66 87 33 75 In the same spot for almost 50 reproduction Roman coins is very However the most striking and plain and simple to exquisitely Following the success of their Japanese cord. The bracelets and years, the Maison Lachize Artisan popular – customers provide their innovative designs honour the decorated with diamonds and Roman-inspired designs, a year or pendants flew off the shelves, and Joaillier was started by Mr & Mrs own heirloom coins, while the town’s two most famous monuments other precious stones. so ago the Lachize brothers were so new creations are already on the Lachize senior, and is now run by brothers also purchase Roman-era – the Arènes amphitheatre and the approached by the Musée de la drawing board for 2019. their two sons – creative designer coins dating from 300-200 BC from Maison Carrée. The rings are a winner with both Romanité to create a collection of Lionel and artisan jeweller Stéphane, collectors and antique shops. nîmois and visitors alike, but are items for its new gift boutique. “Our jewellery is made to be worn, with Stéphane’s own son currently Exquisitely designed as a particularly prized as glittering not only kept for special occasions,” undertaking an apprenticeship contemporary tribute to the keepsakes for nîmois or those who They adapted some of their coin says Lionel. “Less bling, more in order to carry on the family ancient landmarks, the Arènes have lived in the city in the past, designs in 925 silver and added an design is our credo – and a lasting business. With a workshop located ring was conceived a decade or with one customer even driving adjustable bracelet in an exclusive memento of our city’s spectacular above the shop and reached via The Arènes ring was so ago by Lionel, while a more 800 km round-trip from northern and extremely hard-wearing Roman heritage.” an ornamental spiral staircase, conceived a decade or so recent creation is his design for France to buy one for his Nîmes- around half the brothers’ business ago by Lionel Lachize rings celebrating the columns born wife’s birthday. www.lachize-joaillier.com comprises bespoke jewellery of the Maison Carrée. While creations, along with ready-to- the columns themselves are wear pieces on sale downstairs Corinthian-style with elaborate in the shop itself. These are then either directly scrolling acanthus-leaf capitals, the incorporated into pieces of fluted design of the rings stop at Nevertheless, in addition to the jewellery by Stéphane, or scaled the base of the capital in a sleek, day-to-day business, the Nîmes-born down and redesigned by Lionel to chic design. Lachize brothers have developed a create customised pieces. There line of unique hand-made jewellery, are even genuine As de Nîmes Each piece takes several weeks drawing on the town’s rich Roman coins from 28BC featuring the to make by hand, fashioned by heritage and celebrating its crocodile and the palm frond - Stéphane in metals ranging from monuments and history. today the town’s coat of arms silver and gold to platinum, – which have been stunningly with the final design entirely A range of bespoke rings and reproduced in a sterling silver according to the customer’s taste pendants featuring real or brooch or pin. and budget – from completely 18 Autumn 2018 Le SUN Autumn 2018 Le SUN 19
History by Janice Lert Aniane Abbey, like many others at the time, was after World War II, when children’s courts were revived by the Maurists, a community of reformed created and new public institutions took charge monks who undertook to restore the buildings. The of young delinquents. However while the name of The Abbey in Aniane and the Devil’s Bridge work stretched out over the next 150 years right up until the French Revolution. Thus a new church the reform school changed, the youngsters went on living there, but now they could work toward was built with large new cloisters on the south professional diplomas which would help them find side including living quarters, a chapter room, an jobs when they were released. The picturesque town of Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert is an important vacation destination for infirmary, a library, etc, and it is these buildings visitors interested in culture, but few bother to stop in the town of Aniane, on the other side which remain visible today. But during the French The Institution was finally closed in 1998, and of the Hérault river. However Saint-Guilhem would never have existed if it weren’t for Aniane, Revolution the buildings, like all other religious the buildings were bought by the community as it was here that a Languedoc nobleman named Wittiza, the son of the Count of Maguelone, buildings in France, were confiscated and sold. The of towns in 2010. They had been listed as a settled in 782. His father was a Visigoth, but he was a Christian and had decided to create Aniane Abbey was bought by the Farel family, who National Monument in 2004 (the Devil’s Bridge transformed the site into was also listed in 1998 as an abbey here, of which he would become the abbot. He changed his name to Benedict, in a textile factory, which part of the Santiago de honour of Benedict of Nursia (480-550) who had written the Rule of Benedict for monks living operated until 1843 with Compostela route), but in communities like the one that our Benedict planned to develop. The Pont du Diable is a UNESCO up to 150 employees. they were run-down and World Heritage Site, and for 1,000 dilapidated, and would The buildings were then years has resisted the Hérault take a fortune and many Benedict started building, and while there is very devil by sending a dog across first. The devil was used as a prison, which river's torrential floods decades to restore. little left of these original monastery buildings, so mad that he tried unsuccessfully to destroy the opened in 1845. The new recent excavations in the cloister courtyard have bridge. He finally gave up and dived into the water access with the honour Nevertheless the villagers revealed remains of the original church, dedicated underneath. The place where he landed is called courtyard and the wings bravely accepted to to the Holy Saviour, along with a mediaeval the “black hole” today. If you want him to stay framing it were added, as well as a new storey to undertake the task, and have started to use the building called a gimel (entrance tower) in the there, throw a pebble into the water as you go by! accommodate more cells. In 1885, the site became site for summer shows and guided visits, hoping north-east corner, and medieval tombs. The abbey a reform school for young delinquents, who were thus to raise money for the restoration work. soon became a major centre for spreading the As Gellone prospered, the mother Abbey in Aniane given jobs in a series of workshops built at the The inhabitants of Aniane, who have had to live Benedictine monastic rule throughout Aquitania, declined, and during the Religious Wars in 1562, the time to create the tools, furniture and other items with this eyesore for so long, will finally be able and Charlemagne heard about Benedict’s work. buildings were sacked and the church destroyed. needed for themselves and for other reform schools to take pride in this long-neglected part of their His son, Louis the Pious, called Benedict to But the abbey initially recovered - in 1633 the throughout the country. This continued until heritage. Aachen (Aix-la-Chapelle) to be his confessor and to supervise the diffusion of the Benedictine rule throughout Europe. As a child, Benedict had often played with another person who was to become important in the realm: his name was Guilhem or Guillaume or Photo: The Devil’s Bridge, upstream the bridge of the road to Aniane William, Count of Toulouse, Duke of Aquitania and Charlemagne’s first cousin. Like Charlemagne, he was a fearless knight, but he decided to give up fighting and devote his life to religion, retiring to the Benedictine Abbey of Gellone which he founded himself in 804, with the help of his childhood friend Benedict. This monastery was located in the town today called Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert, just across the Hérault river from Aniane. To connect the two abbeys, it was decided to build a bridge across the Hérault. The bridge dates back to 1030, a period when many pilgrims were travelling along the path to Santiago de Compostela in Spain, so the bridge got a lot of use. It received the nickname of the Pont du Diable (Devil’s Bridge) because a legend says that during the construction, every night a devil would come out and destroy what had been built during the day. Finally a pact was made with the devil: if he helped to build the bridge, the first soul to cross the bridge would be his. So a nice solid bridge was built, but the monks fooled the 20 Autumn 2018 Le SUN Autumn 2018 Le SUN 21
Lifestyle by Rachel Pollard Attending a creche is affordable as the government assists parents my experience with Les Petites Canailles makes me think that one tells you that motherhood is quite a lonely job, and that whilst depending on their means, whereas France has the better options. you are used to KPIs and working in Mother without a hood Hong Kongers have to resort to helpers, grandparents, or pricey playgroups. The food is all made in house, fresh everyday… I look at the board when a team, no one slaps you on the back or gives you a mummy of the week prize for that well-placed nappy, It’s a relatively daunting experience becoming a mother, so much responsibility and so many I take my child there and wish I fully dressed child with matching opportunities to mess up, but when you add moving countries and cultures into the mix, things There is a waiting list for most was staying for lunch! Not such socks, or successful dinner. get that bit more interesting. In the last two years I have been pregnant twice and lived in creches, but I had the extraordinary a great surprise though that the good fortune of getting my first- French demand fine quality food The UK is great for creating three different countries - Hong Kong (China), England and France, all offering their fair share born into a creche for 1½ days support groups, even in its of ups and downs. a week. The fantastic Directrice small towns: Hong Kong as a of Les Petites Canailles (the big city has its fair share, but aptly named Little Rascals) I’ve launched the Facebook the best one I’ve come across in and her team have made my group Mothers in Avignon, our region in France is Mamans immersion into the French à Montpellier/Mothers in culture and motherhood that Nîmes, Uzès and environs Montpellier. Having found that much easier. there are not enough activities for mothers who choose to stay I would also say that this for their “little ‘uns” – I’ll refrain home, or are working part time, experience has given my boy from commenting on Irish and I’ve launched the Facebook group the opportunity to thrive as a British cuisine in comparison to the Mothers in Avignon, Nîmes, Uzès bilingual toddler. He listens to creche’s Michelin-star purée! and environs (MiANU) to bring and speaks French to his carers expatriate mothers together. If whilst fine tuning his social, Mothers, local and foreign, need mothers are reading this and want craft-making, toy-playing, and support groups to laugh about all to share quality time, resources or singing skills. I’ve seen creches kinds of daily incidents and share trade stories with other mothers, in the UK, HK and France, and their cross-cultural experiences. No feel free to sign up. LE Giving birth in France seems to be a They were very shocked by the (a matter of a few hundred 15 & 16 décembre 2018 much more affordable and routine UK procedures, as post-partum euros with insurance) versus the 10h-17h � 4 € � gratuit -12 ans affair (well, as standardised as a monitoring is stricter in France: proportionately much larger cost birth can be) than in Hong Kong midwives spend the days after birth of private care in the UK and Hong or the UK. In France, hospitals teaching the new mother how to Kong. The latter ranges from €1,800 “la vraie magie insist on you staying in three days best look after her baby. Although to €10,000 - although it must be after the birth for a natural said that Hong Kong’s very de Noël“ birth and one week for a good, but jam-packed, public caesarean. My experience in Princess Kate walked out of hospitals will charge only €10 120 exposants the UK was that even after an for the experience - and you artisans, créateurs, producteurs emergency caesarean, I could hospital in the UK just hours can even put the fee on your after giving birth Restaurations sur place leave after one night’s rest and Octopus card, the equivalent ������������������������������������������������������� monitoring. of a underground pass or Navigo card! CHÂTEAU ABBAYE DE CASSAN The morning programmes here for I’m not a fan of hospitals, this extra 34320 ROUJAN � (15 km Pézenas) mothers, including my personal care and attention seems like a More than in the UK, French Renseignements : 04 67 245 245 favourite La Maison des Maternelles, jolly good idea. mothers tend to go back to work www.chateau-cassan.com were talking about how Princess after maternity leave. I’m sure Kate walked out of hospital in the Private care at a polyclinic is also it has something to do with the UK just hours after giving birth. much more affordable in France fantastic childcare options here. 22 Autumn 2018 Le SUN Autumn 2018 LE SUN 23
Liquid Assets by Matt Saunders (try sirop de pêche for a great to oysters) or one of our many super bold reds, a dark rich Malbec (also Bellini). The Ancestrale uses a Sauvignons, packed with notes of known as “Cot”) from its traditional Drinking in a winter wine-derland!! single fermentation process with 100% Mauzac, creating a 6% low- citrus fruits. home in Cahors, or maybe a strong, oakey Madiran that uses Tannat alcohol fruity wine with elegant If roast meats, stews or game are and Cabernet Franc to produce the pear and apple notes - perfect with more your seasonal thing, then a perfect accompaniment to wintery a chocolate dessert! All of these plethora of delights are at your duck-based dishes. These wines all festive fizzes use the méthode disposal. benefit from a bit of caraffing, or at traditionelle of fermentation (as least a few hours of being open. in Champagne), unlike Prosecco (the Sodastream of the wine Traditionally in France, the On a lighter note… dessert! world) which has gas injected During the cold months, I emphasis for les fêtes is a into it! often find myself with a bottle gourmet experience for all of mœlleux or Banyuls. Often As we take our places at the seen as old-fashioned, dessert festive table in France, the wines never get the attention sheer extravagance involved they deserve. Try a Muscat during les fêtes becomes apparent. The winter fare in this neck of the from Saint-Jean-de-Minervois, or Traditionally in France, the woods is not for the faint-hearted discover a sweet red from Banyuls emphasis is based on a gourmet - many dishes are high in fat (giving in the Roussillon region – or if you experience for all. Seafood plays a flavour), and strong meats require really fancy going local, look for a huge part in the winter festivities, equally strong reds. There are so Cartagène, a thoroughly wonderful with oysters and lobsters in many reds to choose from that it drop. Above all, keep warm and abundance. Go for crisp, acidic can be a minefield, so try to go festive this winter, and stick to the citrussy whites like a Picpoul de for good strong appellations like old adage “everything in moderation Pinet (the only real accompaniment Corbières, with its intense tannic - including moderation!” For more info onTaste du Languedoc, visit www.tastedulanguedocwinetours.com, or find us on Facebook at Inspiré Azille. Maris We’ve said goodbye to the sound of the cicada and chilled rosés (or chilled reds for the fashionistas), and our thoughts now turn to that glass of comforting red. Yes, les vendanges are well under way, and the moment towards which all vignerons have been working hard all year whilst praying to nature to ensure the best results possible - either qualitative or quantitative, depending on which side of the fence you sit - is finally here. Here in the beautiful Minervois, Languedoc, we are fortunate Let’s look at three different sparkling our Sundays will be taken up to have experienced divine Limoux wines - Blanquette, Crémant hunting for the season’s last cep intervention when the abbot Dom and Ancestrale. Blanquette is made mushrooms, swiftly followed by Pérignon (yes, that’s right - the with Mauzac (a relatively unknown chestnuts that are begging to be same one) miraculously discovered grape, unless you live in Limoux) as roasted - tasty but unacceptably sparkling wine whilst residing at its dominant grape (90%) and also dry, unless washed down with the abbey of Saint-Hilaire near Chenin and Chardonnay. something earthy and red! All this Limoux, creating something very seasonal foraging is to stock our near to what we now know as the Crémant has the Chardonnay as larder for the oncoming winter, and extremely quaffable Blanquette its dominant grape (40-70%), with the inevitable feasting and drinking de Limoux. For me, Limoux boasts Mauzac, Chenin and Pinot Noir during the festive season. sparkling wines that can substitute making up the blend that more Let’s go on a virtual festive feast! for many Champagnes, yet are great value for money, retailing closely resembles Champagne than the others. These wines are For me, the apéritif is paramount at a fraction of the price (between great for the apéritif, and make in ensuring the evening gets off €5 and €15). super bases for cocktails with to a flying start. Here in the the addition of other ingredients 24 Autumn 2018 Le SUN Autumn 2018 Le SUN 25
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