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February 2021
HOROLOGICAL TIMES
AMERICAN WATCHMAKERS-CLOCKMAKERS INSTITUTE · SETTING SERVICE STANDARDS AND EDUCATING THE HOROLOGICAL COMMUNITY
A Fascinating Watch
Lubrication Tips
Useful Watch Repair Fixtures, Part 2
The British School of Watchmaking
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IN THIS VOLUME 45, NUMBER 2, February 2021
Official Publication of the American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute
AWCI News Watch Marketing Day Changes TM
February 2021
EXECUTIVE & EDITORIAL OFFICES President’s Message with the Times
American Watchmakers- By Andrew DeKeyser, CW21
By Justin Harrell, CW21
HOROLOGICAL TIMES
AMERICAN WATCHMAKERS-CLOCKMAKERS INSTITUTE · SETTING SERVICE STANDARDS AND EDUCATING THE HOROLOGICAL COMMUNITY
Clockmakers Institute (AWCI) page 5 page 26
701 Enterprise Drive
Harrison, OH 45030
Affiliate Chapter News Mechanical Watchmaking
866-FOR-AWCI (367-2924)
page 37 and Art Mechanics Added to
or 513-367-9800 Cultural Heritage List
Fax 513-367-1414 By Andrew DeKeyser, CW21
awci@awci.com • www.awci.com
www.facebook.com/MyAWCI
Technical Discussion page 27
Useful Watch Repair Fixtures,
A Fascinating Watch
Lubrication Tips
Education &
Useful Watch Repair Fixtures, Part 2
Donna Hardy Part 2 The British School of Watchmaking
A diagram from a patent by Charles
Managing Editor
Ext. 305 donna@awci.com
By Andrew H. Dervan, SFNAWCC
and Mahlon Shetler Certification Vander Woerd. See page 15 for Jack
Kurdzionak’s exploration of a fascinating
page 9 AWCI Educational Calendar watch that led him to research its
Janette Torres-Gomez page 6 history on the Internet.
Graphic Designer &
Assistant Technical Support Industry News Horological Education
Classifieds
Ext. 302 jgomez@awci.com
Tissot Supercharges Its Around the World
T-Touch Line of Watches British School of Watchmaking
Jason Champion, CW21
By Andrew DeKeyser, CW21 Manchester, United Kingdom Buy, Sell, Trade, and
Education Director and Watchmaking Specialist
Ext. 303 jason@awci.com page 25 By Kathleen Cardwell Employment Opportunities
page 29 page 40
Mike Carpenter, CC21 Acrotec Acquired
Clock Director
clocks@awci.com
by the Carlyle Group
By Andrew DeKeyser, CW21
Columns AWCI Directory
page 25
Watchmaker’s Tip Advertisers’ Index
HOROLOGICAL TIMES Two Tips on Lubrication page 42
ADVISORY COMMITTEE page 13
Bob Little, CC, CW, Chair Troverie Proves Unsuccessful Board of Directors
Daniel Benson, CMW with Online Customers From the Workshop page 42
Paul Corn By Andrew DeKeyser, CW21 A Fascinating Watch
Andrew DeKeyser, CW21
page 26 By Jack Kurdzionak, CW21, FAWCI Fellows
Dale LaDue, CMW21
page 15 page 42
Jason Ziegenbein, CW21
Industry Advisory
Board Members
page 42
Reprinting and reproduction is prohibited without written
permission from the American Watchmakers-Clockmakers OUR VISION:
Institute. Copyright © 2021 by the American Watchmakers- AWCI’s vision is to have an educated and passionate horological community practicing
Clockmakers Institute. the highest standards and with the resources to provide quality goods and services.
Horological Times (ISSNO 145-9546) is published monthly
and copyrighted by the American Watchmakers-Clockmakers OUR MISSION:
Institute, 701 Enterprise Drive, Harrison, OH 45030-1696. Setting service standards and educating the horological community.
Subscription price for the public is $175.00 per year
($15.00 per copy). Members subscription is $99.00 which
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3
Renewal Notice
We are excited about 2021 at AWCI!
If you have already renewed—THANK YOU! If you have not, there is still time. You can renew
via the invoice that was emailed to you, or you can choose one of the options below. Please
renew today to keep your HT subscription active and to receive all your AWCI benefits.
You won’t want to miss out. Renew Today!
(https://awci.memberclicks.net/renew)
You can choose Automatic Renewal and your credit card will be billed automatically each year for your
membership dues. Note: You will not receive a renewal notice in the mail.
Important! We have switched to a new system for managing our membership, so this renewal notice and the
invoice you received by email will look different than they have in the past.
2021: Your annual dues continue to be only $150! This includes a digital subscription to Horological Times plus
all the other benefits you count on.
*If you would like to continue to receive a printed copy of Horological Times in the mail, be sure to upgrade your mem-
bership to the Regular Plus HT membership, which is just $175 for US members and $205 for international members.
The printed copy of Horological Times now features matte paper, which makes it easier to read in well-lit environments.
To pay your dues with a credit card:
• Go to https://awci.memberclicks.net/renew or check your email for the link that was sent to you.
• If you are viewing HT digitally, click on the “RENEW NOW” and complete the form. You will need to log in
with your username ##[Username]## and password. If you haven’t set your new password yet, you will need
to click on the “forgot password” link.
• Select your membership type.
• Double check your contact information and update your directory listing.
• If you would like to have next year’s dues automatically paid, you can check the box for automatic renewal.
Your credit card information is not stored at AWCI. It will be securely stored with the credit card processor.
To pay your dues with a check:
• Contact us at memberservices@awci.com.
• Or send us this page or a photocopy of it, mark your membership type, and mail it with your check.
(Mail to: AWCI • 701 Enterprise Drive • Harrison, OH 45030)
An email will automatically be generated when payment is processed or to notify you of any late payments.
Note: You will not receive a renewal notice in the mail.
RENEW NOW (https://awci.memberclicks.net/renew)
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a message from the
president JUSTIN HARRELL, CW21
T hanks to everyone who Your experiences are valuable. Why not share them
has renewed their mem- with your colleagues? That is what networking, one
bership for 2021. If you have of the most valuable benefits of AWCI membership,
not renewed, I would like to is all about.
remind you to do so as soon We are again looking toward a brighter future and
as possible. During these chal- making plans for the time when we can resume our
lenging times, your dues are activities. Some of those activities include:
more important than ever to • Rescheduling the annual convention so
Justin Harrell
jharrell@awci.com help us continue operating that we can again meet in person with
828-551-0741 your institute. our colleagues and friends.
The year 2021 is here and 2020 is in the rear-view • Resuming in-person classes at our head-
mirror. But that does not mean we can now resume quarters.
activities as they were in 2019. We are still coping with • Getting the mobile classroom back on
COVID-19, and no one can accurately predict when the road to bring horological education
this virus will be eradicated. Effective vaccines are to you.
available and will soon be widely distributed. Until Our members possess a wide variety of skills
then, I implore you to be diligent with and talents. If you are willing to present
your safety protocols at work and at home. Please share a seminar or a webinar, I invite you to
Your health and that of your family is far share those skills and talents with all of us
too valuable to place at risk by taking un- with us what by joining our team of watchmaking and
necessary chances during this pandemic. you have clockmaking instructors. We have the fa-
The past year has reminded all of us learned cilities, both in-house and mobile, along
that the future is always unpredictable and with the tools, equipment, and supplies to
that change is the only certainty we can during the support our educational offerings. What
depend upon. Adapting to new situations past year. we need is your willingness to share your
and sacrificing some of our old ways is a expertise with our members.
life skill that keeps us prepared for the unpredictable I have asked you to help the institute. I would also
future. Your Board of Directors has made some diffi- like to know what the institute can do for you in terms
cult and painful management decisions during the past of educational classes, technical support, business
year that are now yielding positive results. We were able support, etc. Please reach out to me or any member
to significantly reduce expenses while still keeping the of your board to discuss how we can work together to
institute open and publishing Horological Times. We have make a new beginning this year.
reduced our overall debt by about $100,000 while we This message has a slightly different tone for
conserve our funds so that we can resume our full ac- February, with me sending warm wishes from sunny
tivities when the pandemic has passed. St. Thomas. I have traveled one hour into the future
All of our members have been affected to some as my coordinates place me in the Atlantic Standard
degree by the pandemic—some much worse than time zone. I am here to mentor a young watchmaker
others. As I mentioned in last month’s message, who is native to the island. It is refreshing to work
we want to hear from you to learn how you rapidly around a young watchmaker with such a bright future
adapted to the new conditions that confronted our in the field of horology. This place is like a second
industry. Please share with us and fellow members home for me, as I have been visiting the Caribbean
what you have learned during the past year. Send an regularly since I began working as a watchmaker
email, write a letter, or call one of your directors. nearly 15 years ago.
Continued on page 39
Horological Times 5
educational calendar
Check out AWCI’s complete line
of courses for watchmakers and See our catalog for more!
clockmakers! We can use your help
AWCI will not be holding classes in Harrison, Ohio, We are always looking to expand our course cata-
or on its mobile classroom until projections of the log and educational resources as well as increase our
virus subsiding have become more predictable or team of instructors. During this downtime, we want
there is a vaccine widely available. In the mean- to develop new courses and find new instructors who
time, we invite you to browse our course catalog, will collaborate with us. Reach out to us at education
www.awci.com/course-catalog, which offers 46 class- @awci.com if there is a class you would like to col-
es for watchmakers, including classes for beginners, laborate on as an instructor.
technicians, and, of course, experienced watchmakers We look forward to receiving your class requests
who want to sharpen their skills. and we hope to have a new list of classes to offer
In the catalog, you’ll find classes on: when the pandemic is under control.
h Introduction to Watchmaking
h Quartz
h Vintage Watch
Repair
h Tool Making
h Precision Timing
We also have 46 classes
for clockmakers, including
classes on:
h American Time-and-
Strike Movement
h Advanced Clock
Repair
h Introduction to the
Lathe
6 February 2021
Reserve your spot today. Contact the education director, Jason Champion, CW21,
at 866-FOR-AWCI (367-2924), ext. 303.
Prices reflect members’ discount! Contact us so we can help you find the best course suited to your skill level, expertise, and interests.
$595
March Herschede Tubular Bell Clocks
Michael will share his knowledge gained from 40 years of experience through his
extensive PowerPoint presentation with over 200 photos focusing on examples
24-26 Instructor: Michael Gainey, CC21
AWCI Headquarters, Harrison, Ohio
of issues before and after a rebuild that are unique to most common Herschede
Tubular Bell movements.
Come to AWCI’s well-equipped machine shop to join David Lindow for this prac-
$595 tical, hands-on class where gearing and gear cutting will be practiced. Students
March Practical Gear Cutting for the Horologist
Session 1
will not only learn the basic setups for cutting horological gears, but they’ll also
learn multiple approaches to tooling as well as theory from a practical stand-
24-26 Instructor: David Lindow
AWCI Headquarters, Harrison, Ohio
point. Students will learn about wheel and pinion engagements and gain a fuller
understanding of horological gearing in general. While the focus of the class will
be on making gears and pinions, the skills taught will transfer to general repair
and improve the success rate of all clock repairers.
$595
March Practical Gear Cutting for the Horologist
Session 2 See description above.
27-29 Instructor: David Lindow
AWCI Headquarters, Harrison, Ohio
October WATCH 420S:
Vintage Chronograph Short Course
$595 Back by popular demand. In this course, you will go through, theoretically and
practically, different vintage chronograph calibers with emphasis on trouble-
5-7 Instructor: Bernhard Stoeber, CW21
AWCI Headquarters, Harrison, Ohio
shooting, repair, and adjustments to each mechanism. Lemania, Landeron, and
Valjoux calibers will be covered.
https://www.awci.com/webinars
Free/discounted webinars for AWCI members!
You asked for it, you got it!
Many of you have asked for online education. While AWCI’s in-person education is on a hiatus, you can still learn from our excellent
instructors—Tom Schomaker, CMW21; Jason Champion, CW21; Jordan Ficklin, CW21; Bernhard Stoeber, CW21; David LaBounty; and Ken De Lucca.
Missed a webinar? No worries, check out the on-demand webinars. Choose a topic from a list of pre-recorded webinars.
Here are some of the topics we cover.
5 Watch Basics for Beginners and Collectors 5 Explore Watchmaking 5 Professional Essentials
(A Hands-On Digital Webinar for Beginners)
5 Basic Watch Repair Skills 5 Tool Maintenance
5 Hairsprings 5 Workshop 5 Clocks
And more!
Stay involved, sharpen your skills, ask questions, and so much more! Have a topic in mind for a webinar?
Send your suggestions to awci@awci.com!
For additional details about specific courses in comprehensive syllabi form, including complete tool lists,
visit: www.awci.com/classes or contact the education director, Jason Champion, CW21, at 866-FOR-AWCI
(367-2924), ext. 303. For additional calendar events visit: www.awci.com/calendar.
Horological Times 7
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SERVING JEWELERS & WATCHMAKERS SINCE 1927
Antique Watch Restoration
By Archie Perkins
CMW, FAWI, FNAWCC, FBHI
a must-have collection!
These three volumes contain valuable information detailing
comprehensive techniques for manufacturing components and
restoring antique wristwatches and pocket watches.
“Antique Watch Restoration, Volumes I & II are comprehensive books that
contain plenty of hard-to-find, useful, practical information. These are
the first books I consult when searching for a solution to part-making in
restoration.”
The Smithsonian Magazine ranked Columbia, PA, Henrik Korpela
among the top 20 best small towns to visit in the United Korpela & Hofs Watchmaking Competence Centre
States, in part, because of its strength in history. Le Locle, Switzerland
www.awci.com/online-store
The National Watch & Don’t have these books? Purchase them today at www.awci.com/online-store/.
Clock Museum provides
a wealth of information
about the art and science
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you can’t visit the museum,
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check out the webinars and and click EVENTS
podcasts about horology to view upcoming Archie B. Perkins
for everyone who loves
Mr. Perkins, the author of Antique
events and classes.
Watch Restoration, Volume 1, has more
than 70 years of experience in the
watchmaking and clockmaking trade,
starting at age fifteen. Archie has spent
more than 40 years, part time and full
time, making wheels and pinions and
other parts for antique watches and
watches, clocks, and all
clocks, and has restored antique and
complicated watches.
A watchmaking and clockmaking
instructor for Denver Public Schools
for 32 years, Archie was elected
“Vocational Educator of the Year” by
the teachers’ union in 1981. He also
things to do with keeping
conducted basic and advanced lathe
III Archie B. Perkins
courses for the American Watchmak-
ers-Clockmakers Institute (AWCI).
Additionally, he served on the AWCI
Board of Directors from 1985 to 1988.
Contact the Education
He has achieved the distinguished titles
of Certified Master Watchmaker and
CMW, FAWI, FNAWCC, FBHI
Archie B. Perkins
Fellow of the American Watchmak-
time. Listen on Spotify,
ers-Clockmakers Institute, Fellow of
the National Association of Watch and
Clock Collectors, and Fellow of the
British Horological Institute.
Department
For 25 years, Archie wrote the monthly
column, “Technically Watches,” for
AWCI’s Horological Times. Many of his
articles were also published in the Brit-
iTunes, and Sound Cloud. Vol. III
ish Horological Journal, Watch and Clock
Review, and the National Association of
at 717.684.8261, ext. 237 FPO
Watch and Clock Collectors Bulletin.
Archie was co-author of The Watch-
maker’s Staking Tool, published by K
and D Staking Tool Co., 1987. He also
wrote The Modern Watchmakers Lathe
and How to Use It, published by AWCI
in 2003.
or education@nawcc.org.
8 February 2021
Technical Discussion: Useful Watch Repair Fixtures, Part 2
Useful Watch Repair Fixtures
Part 2
By Andrew H. Dervan, SFNAWCC and Mahlon Shetler
Introduction five more useful fixtures for watchmaking. Keep in
In the January 2021 issue of Horological Times, we ex- mind that these fixtures are not meant to be copied
plained how to make specialized fixtures for holding or replicated. Rather, they are intended to spark your
small parts on the lathe and presented six fixtures imagination, encourage you to design and produce
and how they can be used. Refer to that article to your own fixtures, and illustrate the almost limitless
learn how to make collets. In Part 2, we present possibilities of specialized fixtures.
Fixture No. 7: Holding a small cylinder
escapement staff
This fixture is designed to hold a small cylinder es-
capement staff while pivoting the lower end. The
lower end, as most watchmakers know, is nearly im-
possible to repivot without support. When mounted
by this end, repivoting becomes easier than replac-
ing the tampon or plug.
Fig. 13. Ready to hold small cylinder escapement
staff.
Fixture No. 8: Regular brass collet
with access holes
Using a regular brass collet with access
holes cut in the side allows you to see what
goes on when trying to mount chronograph
runners, sweep pinions, or any item with
a larger section on the opposite end from
that which needs to be worked on. In this
example, the chronograph wheel will be
inside the chuck with the tip protruding
from the front of the chuck. It will then be
well supported when worked upon. Fig. 14. Chuck with chronograph runner wheel removed.
Horological Times 9
Technical Discussion: Useful Watch Repair Fixtures, Part 2
Fixture No. 9: An expanding bezel chuck to
hold the inside of the workpiece
This bezel chuck expands to grasp the inside of the
workpiece, such as a pocket watch bezel. The chuck
is uniquely designed so that as the chuck is drawn
against the tapered front edge of the spindle by the
drawbar, the corresponding internal taper on the
back of the chuck expands the three sections to
hold the workpiece.
Fig. 16. With the watch bezel removed.
Fig. 15. Holding a watch bezel. Fig. 17. The chuck removed from headstock
showing the tapered back end.
Fixture No. 10: A barrel chuck for holding fragile pieces
This is a useful tool for fragile pieces or otherwise difficult-to-hold items. The part is held against the face of the
barrel, clamped in place by a threaded cover.
Fig. 18. Barrel holder assembled in place. Fig. 19. Barrel holder with cover removed.
10 February 2021Fixture No. 11: Holding Elgin chronometer
balance staff
This fixture is specifically designed to hold the Elgin
chronometer balance staff without the balance wheel.
The hole has been slightly tapered to fit the staff
using a suitable broach. The staff is pushed in until
tight and then locked with the brass screw. There is
ample clearance for the hub. The same design can
be made (with suitable alterations in size) for other
chronometer staffs.
20. Fixture in the lathe showing the setscrew on
the side.
Acknowledgments
The authors want to thank John Creamer for the
fixture photographs.
Andrew Dervan is an antique-clock collector who runs a clock appraisal business. He has published many articles in NAWCC’s
Watch & Clock Bulletin, American Clock and Watch Museum Electronic Timepiece Journal, and Clocks Magazine.
Mahlon Shetler, an Amish watchmaker, has been repairing watches for over 25 years, developing micromachining skills.
He co-publishes a monthly newsletter Time Keepers Bulletin.
Horological Times 11FREE on-demand webinars!
Take advantage of this great benefit. Once you download the link, you can watch the webinar
any time, any place, as often as you like. You’ll also get the PowerPoint slides to keep as well
as other handouts. Here are just a couple of the great webinars you have at your disposal. See
www.awci.com/educationcareers/webinars/ for more!
Lubrication 1: General
Principles of Lubrication
This webinar, presented by Jason Champion, CW21,
is the first in a series of webinars on lubrication for
professional watchmakers. Topics include the latest
insights from the industry about types of lubricants
and their application and general guidelines for
applying lubricants when technical documentation
is not available. Also covered:
• History of watch lubricants • Sliding friction • Capillary action
• Best practices • Surface tension • Creeping
• Where and when to use lubricants • Stiction • Viscosity
• Oils for faster/low-torque and slower/ • Importance of cleanliness • Specific uses for lubricants
high-torque situations
Handouts
• General Lubrication Chart • Moebius Technical Data Sheet—SYNT-HP1300 9104
• Lubrication table • PowerPoint slides
• Moebius Technical Data Sheet—SYNT-A-LUBE 9010 AWCI Members—FREE Everyone else—$25
The Chronograph
Presented by Jordan Ficklin, CW21, this webinar
presents information on the chronograph, including:
• The history of the chronograph
• Types of chronograph dials
• Types of chronograph scales
• Types of mechanisms
• Operation of the chronograph—including demonstra-
tions with slow-motion video
• Identifying common chronographs, including ETA 7750
and variants, Omega 861 and 1143, modular chrono-
graphs, and Rolex Daytonas 4030 vs 4130
Handout
PowerPoint slides AWCI Members—FREE Everyone else—$25Two Tips on Lubrication
Cleaning Before Lubricating Synthetic Lubricants
Cleaning after repair and prior to adding lubricant Moebius
is important and should not be rushed. Tools used • 9010—Lighter oil good for fast-moving
during repair must also be clean. Any dirt left behind parts with low torque
after a repair will cause additional capillary action and
• HP-1000—Good for slow-moving parts
disrupt the surface tension required to keep a lubri- with high torque, such as barrels and
cant in place. arbors
Some important points to remember about • HP-1300—Good for slow-moving parts
cleaning: with high torque or for a pivot or post
trapped inside something else
; Peg jewels before placing parts into the
cleaning machine. • 8200—Mainspring
; Put pivots in pith wood before cleaning. • 8201—Breaking greases
; Make sure all cleaning solutions are • 9501—Grease
thoroughly rinsed away before applying
lubricants.
Sometimes watchmakers omit the first two items above
to “save time.” However, later when there are issues,
the watch may need to be disassembled a second time
to achieve better performance. If the watchmaker had
done the pegging and pith wood cleaning initially, it
would have actually saved the time.
Choosing a Lubricant
Follow these basic guidelines to choose the appropri-
ate lubricant while servicing a watch. For fast-moving
parts with low torque, a thinner lube is required. For
slow-moving parts with high torque, a thicker oil is
used. For parts where sliding friction is a factor, use
a grease that will stay put. Different lubrications are
needed for slower-beat watches than are needed for
faster-beat watches. Sometimes a specialized lubri-
cant is needed to avoid chemical reactions with a met-
al. Follow the most recent recommendations from the
manufacturer if they are available.
Horological Times 13Column: Watchmaker’s Tip: Two Tips on Lubrication
• 9504—Grease stays in place and is • TEPA—For the automatic sliding bridle
good for sliding parts, such as setting on the mainspring. Be careful; it can be
mechanisms and spring levers removed. It is in and out of favor but is
still used.
• 941—Escapement grease good for
sliding friction and slower-beat watches • Jisma124—Thicker grease
• 9415—Escapement grease good • P125—Breaking grease
for sliding friction and higher-beat • Molycote DX—Thicker grease
escapements
• 9000—Quartz oil Natural Grease
• 8212—Good for aluminum parts
Other Lubricants
• 8213—Good for bronze or brass parts
• MR-4—Light/medium grease
• MR-5—Thicker oil/grease
• RL2—Escapement grease
This tip is courtesy of Jason Champion, CW21.
14 February 2021From the Workshop
By Jack Kurdzionak, CW21, FAWCI
A Fascinating Watch
One of my friends, a watch collector himself, occasion- to the serial number guide listed in the Shugart book
ally asks me if I have repaired any interesting watches (Complete Price Guide to Watches, Cooksey G. Shugart
lately. Almost always my answer is, “Not really…” since et al, Shugart Publications, 2000), this movement was
most of my current work has been routine with an made circa 1876-77, which further confirmed its age
occasional challenge to solve a problem or to locate compatibility with the case. The main plate was en-
spare parts. Sometimes, a repair presents a fascinating graved with “Woerd’s Patents” beneath the balance,
opportunity to solve a problem along with the added and the upper plate was engraved with “Patent Pinion.”
benefit of discovering something unexpected. When I received the pocket watch for repair, it had
This article was inspired by an old pocket watch a broken balance staff, broken mainspring, and a bro-
with a problem I had not foreseen. Although the watch ken balance jewel. The roller jewel appeared a bit small
repair was completed to my satisfaction, and I was for the watch, but I did not closely examine it during
certain it would meet its owner’s expectations, there the estimating process. To my surprise, I had a genu-
was still some doubt in my mind about a few details ine staff in stock for the watch. The balance jewel was
that were unique to this movement. My misgivings no problem, as I have a large collection of old bezel-set
led me to conduct some research to learn more about pocket watch balance jewels that probably went missing
this early product from one of America’s great watch long ago from one or more factories. I almost always
companies. find a jewel from this collection that can be adjusted
to fit an old pocket watch. Plus, I had one more alloy
At First Glance mainspring in stock to fit this model.
This watch was a Model 1872 from the American Watch After pre-cleaning the movement, I removed and
Company and featured a 16-size “Park Road” move- replaced the staff, which went smoothly. Although this
ment with 15 jewels. The watch was made in Waltham, watch was manufactured in 1878, the new staff’s di-
Massachusetts, before American Watch Company be- mensions were such that no alterations were needed
came the Waltham Watch Company. (Waltham resi- to fit the roller table, the balance wheel, or the hair-
dents pronounce it “Wall tham,” not “Walth em.”) The spring. Because the old staff was removed by cutting
movement, serial number 913987, is a hunting case the old rivet away rather than punching it out, the bal-
model installed in an open face, AWCo, 18 karat gold ance wheel did not become distorted or damaged. The
case. Immediately I thought this case was not original replacement staff riveted easily, and the balance wheel
to the movement, but closer examination indicated this did not need to be trued either in the round or in the
movement may have been in its original case. flat. Next, I selected a balance jewel that fit perfectly
During the late 1800s, many American Watch with no alterations needed.
Company movements were installed in genuine This entire process proceeded without any com-
Waltham cases that were trademarked AWCo. The plications until I took a close look at the roller jewel
1872 model movement was slightly larger than the and discovered it was never meant to be a roller jewel.
usual 16-size American watch movement, which meant Rectangular in its cross section, it was a short pallet
it required a case that matched its special dimensions stone that someone had fit to the roller table as a sub-
and could not readily be installed in a standard 16-size stitute roller jewel. Also, it was far shorter than a roller
case. Also, there were no other screwhead marks from jewel should be for a watch with a single roller. It fit the
casing screws, which indicated a different movement roller table only because many of those old rollers had
had been installed in the case. The presentation date round holes rather than D-shaped holes for the roller
engraved on the watch is October 4, 1878. According jewel. I took out my collection of loose roller jewels to
Horological Times 15Column: From the Workshop
select one that would fit the slot Fig. 1
in the pallet fork. That was when
I saw that this watch had a circu-
lar slot in the fork, which I had
never seen before, Figure 1. My
assumption was that this watch
was designed for a circular roller
jewel rather than the customary
D-shaped or triangular roller jew-
el. My collection of roller jewels
yielded a round jewel that not
only fit the circular hole in the
roller table, but it also fit the fork
slot. Before fitting the hairspring,
I checked the poise of the balance
wheel, which was very close to
perfect and only required a light Fig. 2
timing washer to bring it to per-
fect poise.
Unusual Features
Next came the complete take
down of the movement prior to Fig. 3
cleaning, which revealed a set-
ting and winding mechanism
that I had never seen before. The
winding pinion and the clutch
appeared familiar enough, but
the lower teeth on the clutch,
those that are engaged during
the time-setting process, were on
a wheel entirely separate from the rest of the clutch and many of which he assigned to the American Watch
which was pivoted on the round pilot of the stem. One Company while he was its employee. Although I have
edge of this wheel was machined to form a truncated seen “Woerd’s patents” engraved on many watches, I
cone that would mate with a matching internal surface had never researched what the patents entailed. This
on the lower edge of the clutch during the time-setting watch is also marked “Patent Pinion,” which refers to
process. Figures 2 and 3, from a 1904 catalog of watch Charles Fogg’s patent for the center wheel safety pinion
materials, illustrate these two wheels. This watch was that protects the barrel teeth and train wheels from a
not the typical antique American pocket watch of the catastrophic mainspring breakage. Obviously, Woerd
1800s. Instead, it had at least two unusual features, a had some patents involved with this movement, so I
round slot in the pallet and the two-part clutch. I was continued my pursuit.
curious to know why this movement had these unique During the 1860s, Woerd patented many improve-
features. The parts catalog did not provide any techni- ments for the movement production processes that
cal explanation, but an Internet search produced pat- increased product quality while lowering the manufac-
ent applications from Charles Vander Woerd, which turing costs. At first, I believed these were the patents
provided some answers. that were acknowledged on the main plate. That was
until I took the movement completely apart to reveal the
Patents Reveal Clues unique setting mechanism that I had never seen before.
Charles Vander Woerd was a skilled watchmaker, ma- Sure enough, Woerd had patented that design in 1871,
chinist, and prolific inventor who held several patents, Figures 4 and 5, pages 18 and 19. In the conventional
16 February 2021hand-setting process for this era, the set lever is moved to 6497. However, I was still troubled by the incongru-
setting position, and the clutch wheel moves toward the ities found in this escapement, including: the round
setting wheel. If the teeth do not perfectly engage, the slot in the pallet fork; the roller table that did not have
tips can be damaged when the teeth are forced together. four notches to position a square roller jewel; the fact
With Woerd’s patent setting clutch, the friction device that the movement was made about nine years prior to
on the lower part of the clutch wheel allows the teeth the square roller jewel patent; and the obvious substi-
to mesh perfectly and without any damage to either the tution of a pallet stone for a roller jewel.
clutch or setting wheel teeth. Apparently, this device was An old watch such as this one, has been repaired
not extensively used, as I have never seen it on any of the numerous times by numerous watchmakers and has
hundreds of old American watches I have serviced. probably had some modifications introduced during
those repairs, which for me, raised more questions than
More Unexpected Discoveries answers. Perhaps the previous small pallet jewel in
I was still curious about the round roller jewel as well as this movement was a substitute for an original square
the unique round pallet slot, so I searched the Internet jewel. I was not sure the roller table was the original
for more information about this pallet fork. Woerd held since it did not have the four positioning notches to
a patent for a square roller jewel secured to a roller ta- align the square roller jewel. As I read the 1887 patent
ble with a hole for the roller jewel that would align the application, I discovered the innovation was the roll-
jewel to properly interface with the pallet fork. That er with four notches that positioned the square roller
was a surprise. Woerd patented that square jewel roller jewel, not the square roller jewel itself, Figure 7, pages
table in 1887, after he left the Waltham Company and 21-22. I contemplated if this was a roller table for a
about 10 years after this movement was made, Figure series 2 or series 3 Model 72, both of which were fitted
6, page 20. I wanted to know why this watch possibly with a D-shaped roller jewel. I also wondered why the
had a square roller jewel and if this design was used by round roller jewel worked so well with the pallet fork
Waltham before it was patented. The 1904 parts catalog designed for a square roller jewel. I concluded:
shows a square roller jewel for the 1872 model, series 1,
confirming its use before the patent date. 1. This watch was originally fitted with a square
The 1872 movement design came from the roller jewel. That original jewel went missing
long ago.
American Watch Company’s Nashua Department,1
which was their R&D department at the time. Woerd 2. Someone substituted a pallet stone to function
as a roller jewel. How well that may have per-
worked in the R&D department with several other in- formed is a mystery.
novative watchmakers to develop and produce high-
grade watches. The factory’s primary focus was to pro- 3. The roller table may or may not be original to
this movement as it had no notches to position a
duce a large number of watches of acceptable (but not square jewel.
outstanding) quality at an affordable price. Watches
from the Nashua Department were the company’s best Although the movement had a square roller jewel
and most expensive products. when manufactured, I suspect the round roller jewel
According to Woerd’s 1887 patent drawing, the that has been installed is performing on par with the
roller table for the square roller jewel had a hole with square jewel. Because this repair was successful and
four corners notched in it to securely position the fascinating, it paid an extra educational dividend for
square jewel. The pallet fork slot in the drawing is oval me. I learned about the unique friction coupling in
rather than circular. The roller in the repaired watch the clutch wheel plus the special roller jewel and pallet
did not have those notches. In addition, the circular combination. Even after fifty years at the bench, this
notch in the pallet fork did not match the oval slot in old dog can still learn a new trick or two to share with
the patent drawing. all of you and my friend who asked if I had seen an
This watch runs very well with the round roller interesting watch.
jewel and keeps excellent time, rivaling a modern ETA
1. The Nashua Watch Company of New Hampshire was organized in 1859 by talented former employees
of Boston Watch Co. following its reorganization by Royal Robbins to become the American Watch
Company. The entire Nashua Company was sold to Robbins in 1862 and maintained as a separate
department to develop and produce high-quality watch movements.
Horological Times 17Column: From the Workshop
Fig. 4
18 February 2021Fig. 5 Horological Times 19
Column: From the Workshop
Fig. 6
20 February 2021Fig. 7-1 Horological Times 21
Column: From the Workshop
Fig. 7-2
Jack Kurdzionak, watchmaker and watch material specialist, owned a Boston-area watch sales and service shop for 40 years.
He has a BS (Northeastern University, 1967) and has studied at ETA, WOSTEP, BHI, SGUS, and AWCI, and works for Eckcells
Watch Materials.
22 February 2021INNOVATION
COMES ONCE.
INNOVATING
GOES FOREVER.
PRECISION IS PRECIOUS.
witschi.com
Distributed by: Jules Borel & Company: julesborel.com
Have you recently renovated your retail store?
If your retail store has undergone a transition over the
past couple of years, making your watch repair workshop
attractively visible from the retail sales floor, we want to hear
from you!
Send us a couple photos and let us know approximately
how much you invested in the renovations and what the
impact has been on sales and service revenue.
Email Editor@awci.com.
Horological Times 23Take Advantage of these AWCI Benefits
Education &
Certification
AWCI’s top-notch education will
help get you where you want to be in
your career. Now you have access to all the
excellent webinars presented by Tom Schomaker,
Jason Champion, Bernhard Stoeber, Ken De Lucca,
David LaBounty, and others! AWCI’s dedication to
education continues and will grow in the future. Invest
in yourself and your career! Certification is available for Tech Guides
watchmakers and clockmakers. For more information, 15,000 tech guides at
contact Jason Champion, CW21: Jason@awci.com; www.awci.com.
866-FOR-AWCI (367-2924) or 513-367-9800, ext. 303.
Find a Professional
Affiliate Chapters Directory
Learn at your local guild from respected horologists It’s easy for clients to find you when
and meet other horologists in your area. Networking is they use AWCI’s directory, which gets
important for business and personal relationships! 12,000 searches per year.
Henry B. Fried Library Horological Times
Borrow from 3,500 books, from Archie Perkins to Improve your craft as you learn from the technical
Henry B. Fried. FREE to all members. articles. Find out the latest developments in the industry.
Keep up with the institute and its activities. Use the
Books & DVDs classifieds to find a job, hire an employee, and buy or sell
Members receive a 10% discount on books and DVDs equipment. Use display ads to promote your products
as well as t-shirts, posters, and more! and services to HT’s targeted audience.Industry
NEWS
Tissot Supercharges Its T-Touch
Line of Watches By Andrew DeKeyser, CW21
A fter years of rumors, Tissot will join the ranks of
watchmakers that offer a connected timepiece.
The T-Touch Connect Solar will be the first ma-
similar collaboration with
Tissot and Microsoft for
the T-Touch Connect Solar
jor project from Tissot’s CEO Sylvain Dolla. The after coming on as Tissot
T-Touch Connect Solar displays information via CEO in July.
Bluetooth LE and a connected app on its hybrid dig- Dolla explains that the
ital/analog display, tracks activity of the wearer, and team did not rush to mar-
has all the features of a T-Touch Solar Expert, all ket because they wanted
while being powered by ambient light. to get it right the first time
Tissot is one of Swatch Group’s more accessible and not join the ranks of
brands, and the T-Touch line of watches is somewhat the numerous failed proj-
of a cult favorite. Therefore, it made sense to super- ects that had come before
charge the line with additional features as the tech- them. Tissot also worked
nology became more cost effective and more widely with Swatch subsidiaries ETA and EM Microelectronic
adopted. as well as the Swiss watch industry’s leading re-
Dolla’s experience in the sector began with his search company, Centre Suisse d’Electronique et de
management of Swatch’s collaboration with Microsoft Microtechnique (CSEM).
that produced the Paparazzi watch. Dolla brokered a
Source
https://www.europastar.com/the-watch-files/those-who-innovate/1004092186-tissot
-connection-without-disruption.html
Acrotec Acquired by the Carlyle Group
By Andrew DeKeyser, CW21
T he Carlyle Group, a global investment compa-
ny based in the US, has entered an agreement to
purchase Acrotec Group, a supplier in the watch and
to more than 40 countries, serves more than 1,500
customers, and employs approximately 1,200 people.
The partnership is expected to leverage Carlyle’s ex-
medical technology industries. Based in Switzerland, pertise and network in the healthcare industry while
the Acrotec Group specializes in “components of all also expanding Acrotec’s medtech business in new
levels of complexity for the mechanical watchmaking services and geographies in Europe and in the US.
industry, tooling and machines, as well as chrono- Although details have not been released, the predicted
metric measuring devices for watches and jewellery.” sale price is estimated at 950 million Swiss Francs, or
Acrotec Group is also known for its high-precision $1.07 billion. The deal is expected to be finalized in
tools and products for the aerospace, aeronautics, the first quarter of 2021.
medtech, and automotive industries. Sources
Acrotec, likely one of the most influential players https://www.reuters.com/article/us-carlyle-group-m-a-acrotec-idUSKBN28H2GO
in the watchmaking industry, has 18 locations, exports https://www.acrotec.ch/en/the-group/about-us/
Horological Times 25Industry News
Troverie Proves Unsuccessful with Online Customers
By Andrew DeKeyser, CW21
T roverie was an online retail platform created for
brick-and-mortar retailers to sell their high-end
brands to an online audience legitimately. It was
most consumers are willing to take on some amount
of risk when purchasing a timepiece online if it
means they can save some money.
meant to be a trustworthy online alternative to the Also plaguing Troverie’s business model was the
thriving gray market. challenge of delivering the luxury experience in an
Troverie debuted in August 2018 with some two online environment. Sizing watches in person, with
dozen independent jewelers and 16 brands. Business a professional, far outweighs the online alternative.
Insider heralded it as the “future of watch buying.” Customers were essentially paying the same price as
Breitling CEO Georges Kern said it was “an omni- in-store for a lesser-value experience.
channel sales vehicle led by true experts to properly Troverie ceased operations in March 2019 and
bridge the gap between online and in-store sales.” sold their assets to Teddy Baldassarre, an American
Troverie faced an uphill battle from the start, entrepreneur and host of the world’s leading YouTube
partially because it tried to sell the idea of “buying channel for wristwatch-related content. Baldassarre
authorized.” But “authorized” is often synonymous made a similar business model work with his own
with “most expensive,” and the gray market thrives online e-commerce site for what he considers the
due to its position as a lower-cost alternative to pric- next generation of watch enthusiasts and customers,
es found at authorized retailers. The market proved at www.teddybaldassarre.com.
Sources
https://www.jckonline.com/editorial-article/how-troverie-tried-gray-market/
https://www.teddybaldassarre.com
Watch Marketing Day Changes with the Times
By Andrew DeKeyser, CW21
In February 2021, two events previously held a
day apart will share the same stage for the
first-ever, half-day, Watch Marketing Day. The
enthusiasts. Topics for the first-ever event include:
new requirements of after-sales service, pre-owned
watches, watch-design icons, Big Data, direct-to-cus-
Journées Internationales du Marketing Horloger tomer sales, and digital marketing.
(JIMH-International Watch Marketing Days) and According to Laetitia Vifian Benoit, president
its academic counterpart, the Journées de Recherche en of the JIMH, the joint event makes perfect sense,
Marketing Horloger (JRMH-Watch Market Research stating, “With this fusion of the world of research
Days), will combine to offer the on-the-ground and on-the-ground experience, we want to create a
experience of the JIMH with the theory of JRMH. new interaction between theory and practice.”
The new event will be a hybrid physical and dig-
Source
ital format with an emphasis on young collectors and https://www.europastar.com/1004092450-watch-marketing-day-gets-a-new-look.html
26 February 2021Mechanical Watchmaking and Art Mechanics
Added to Cultural Heritage List
By Andrew DeKeyser, CW21
T he United Nations Educational, Scientific, and
Cultural Organization (UNESCO) has regis-
tered the craftsmanship of mechanical watchmaking
According to UNESCO’s website, “These skills,
at the crossroads between science, art and technolo-
gy, bring together individual and collective, as well
and art mechanics on its Representative List of the as theoretical and practical knowledge in the fields of
Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. UNESCO mechanics and micromechanics. This border region
considered the application as one that raises awareness between France and Switzerland is home to a wide
of the importance of intangible cultural heritage in a range of craftsmen, businesses, training institutions,
cross-border area. museums and associations that promote and trans-
The craftsmanship of mechanical watchmaking and mit these techniques that require the human’s hands.
art mechanics includes the traditional craftsmanship Those highly skilled techniques combine tradition
of watchmaking in the Jura Arc, an area that stretch- and innovation.”
es from Geneva to Schaffhausen, and from Biel to
Besançon, as well as the production of mechanical au- Source
tomata and music boxes in the Sainte-Croix region. https://www.europastar.com/the-watch-files/watch-archives-heritage/1004092480
-watchmaking-now-on-unesco-s-world-heritage-list.html
UNESCO has recognized mechanical watchmaking and art mechanics as an intangible cultural
heritage of humanity.
Photo courtesy of UNESCO.
© Alain Margot, 2010.
Andrew DeKeyser is the owner of HCP Watchmaking in Sisters, Oregon. He graduated from the Lititz Watch Technicum
with WOSTEP certification.
Horological Times 27Make a Fresh Start!
It’s a new year. Let AWCI’s resources refresh your business.
Referrals. A great benefit of being an AWCI member is being in the Find a Professional directory.
Customers can find you simply by visiting www.awci.com or calling AWCI’s office. Let people know
your specialties and your certifications. It’s time to update your directory listing now!
Technical Guides and References. Don’t waste valuable time searching for the information you
need to complete a repair. The Technical Guides and References database is comprehensive, with
everything from Accutron to Zenith. No need to search all over the Internet for a tech guide when
we’ve got them all in one place—easy to download or view on screen.
Marketing Materials. Downloadable marketing materials on the website, such as an AWCI
window sticker and an AWCI Certified logo, will let customers know that you are honest,
reliable, and the best!
Horological Times. HT not only keeps you informed about changes in the industry, it
also is the best place to advertise. Use the classifieds to find a job, hire an employee,
or buy or sell equipment. Or use a display ad to advertise services and products
watchmakers and clockmakers use.
www.awci.com is the website you should be using in 2021!
would you
like to read
what makes
brits tick?
The Horological Journal – published monthly
without fail since 1858 – gives you exclusive
technical articles and practical updates on clock
and watch making.
You’ll find news on the latest issue and
how to get it at www.bhi.co.uk
28 February 2021Horological Education
Around the World
By Kathleen Cardwell
British School of Watchmaking BSoW is currently transitioning the 3,000-hour
Manchester, United Kingdom course to the same schedule as the 1,800-hour course.
The British School of Watchmaking (BSoW) opened The changes also include an additional 600 hours of
in 2006 as a WOSTEP Affiliate. With continued learning time and an increase in employment-focused
growth and a five-year record of 100% graduate learning. As a nonprofit, independent institution that
employment from 2006-2011, the school expanded receives no government funding, the British School
to annually accepting eight students each year for its of Watchmaking is financed entirely by contributions
3,000-hour course. In January 2018, BSoW was se- from its founders and partners. For more informa-
lected by WOSTEP to launch and further develop the tion, visit www.britishschoolofwatchmaking.co.uk/.
first 1,800-hour course in
Europe, and the first taught
by an independent school.
Both the 1,800-hour and
the 3,000-hour courses at
BSoW provide training in
encasing, movement ex-
change, servicing (quartz,
manual, automatic, and
basic chronograph move-
ments), and quality control.
Students in the 3,000-hour
course are also trained in
micromechanics as well as
advanced adjustment and
regulation techniques.
A student in the 1,800-hour course receives guidance from a teacher.
Horological Times 29Education & Certification: Horological Education Around the World
The following questions were answered worked tirelessly throughout the lockdown, teach-
by James Robinson, general manager at ing practical lessons and theory remotely. The stu-
the British School of Watchmaking. After dents were quite successful at maintaining their
working as an engineer and then watchmak- skills during lockdown while also learning how to
er, James taught the WOSTEP 3,000-hour service automatic full calendar chronographs. They
course for several years before becoming graduated in December with grades that were com-
the general manager of the British School of mensurate with those of earlier years. This was the
Watchmaking in 2016. He is now responsi- first time we have ever needed to teach this way, but
ble for all aspects of the school’s courses, it was a resounding success. The lessons we learned
student selection, and the day-to-day oper- as an educational institution are now once more
ation of the school. required in the new year, as the UK has again found
itself in lockdown.
How is COVID-19 affecting how you Between these two lockdowns the school has
conduct your classes? been operating reasonably unaffected in terms of
During the spring of 2020, all our courses were sus- classroom teaching. We have implemented a variety
pended as the UK entered its first lockdown. We of health and safety precautions, including Perspex
moved our teaching online, delivering both practi- screens, shift working patterns, masks, tempera-
cal and theoretical lessons via Zoom. Our students ture checks, and changes to any processes involving
returned home with all the watches and tools they shared equipment to ensure everything is as low risk
needed and built their own workshops. Our tutors as possible.
A student in the 1,800-hour course services an automatic wristwatch movement.
30 February 2021You can also read
