GB Ice Climbing Team Selection Policy 2020/2021 - The ...
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2020/2021
GB Ice Climbing Team
Selection Policy
The BMC and Mountaineering Scotland reserve the right to amend this document should there be significant changes to either
the wider NGB strategy, the funding status or any significant changes made by the UIAA and/or the IOC.
V3 28.9.20201. GB Ice Climbing Team Selection Purpose
1.1 This selection policy outlines the process the BMC in partnership with Mountaineering
Scotland will undertake in selecting athletes to the GB Ice Climbing Team.
1.2 The team is open to British competition climbers who in the 2020/2021 season will
compete in the UIAA Junior or Senior categories. Junior categories listed below.
Year of Under 16 Under 19 Under 21
event
2019 2006 2005 2004 2003 2002 2001 2000 1999 1998
2020 2007 2006 2005 2004 2003 2002 2001 2000 1999
2021 2008 2007 2006 2005 2004 2003 2002 2001 2000
2022 2009 2008 2007 2006 2005 2004 2003 2002 2001
2023 2010 2009 2008 2007 2006 2005 2004 2003 2002
1.3 GB Ice climbing members will have opportunities in 2021 to compete in UIAA World
Cup competitions.
2. Objectives
The intention of this selection policy is to provide clarity and consistency in approach to the
selection for all athletes. GB can send up to 8 men and 8 women in each of Difficulty (Lead) and
Speed to each World Cup event
3. Eligibility
In addition to eligibility below, athletes must comply with UIAA eligibility rules, including anti-
doping:
3.1 Athletes are members of the BMC or Mountaineering Scotland;
3.2 Athletes must be a British citizen and eligible to represent Great Britain;
3.3 Athletes hold a valid international license issued by the BMC, where an athlete meets
age category criteria;
3.4 Athletes have signed the GB Athlete Agreement and abide by its terms and conditions.
Any athlete failing to do so could see their selection being withdrawn; and
V3 28.9.20203.5 Athletes comply to UIAA and UK Anti-Doping rules and anti-doping blood/urine testing
policies. Notified athletes on the National and/or International testing pools will comply
with the requirements of the World Anti-Doping Code and International Standard for
Testing with regard to ADAMS and whereabouts information.
4. Selection Panel
4.1 All selections are made by the BMC selection panel:
• Chair – BMC Deputy CEO (Nick Colton), casting vote
• BMC Competitions Program Manager (Zoe Spriggins), voting rights
• Mountaineering Scotland Sports Development Officer (Kevin Howett), voting rights
• GB Climbing Department CCPG representative (TBC), voting rights
• Independent Observer (TBC), no voting right
4.2 Other expert advisors or observers such as representatives from funding bodies may
be invited to attend from time to time, but without voting rights.
4.3 The selection panel will exercise its discretion fairly and without bias in making its
decision against the selection criteria listed in this document.
4.4 Decisions will be made by majority vote.
5. Confidentiality
Athletes and officials must not disclose any information regarding any selection decisions or
appeals until such information is publicly announced or disclosed by the BMC, in partnership
with Mountaineering Scotland.
6. Selection Criteria
6.1 GB Ice Climbing, Junior Selection
All athletes are responsible for registering themselves to attend UIAA European Cup
events. Each athlete must also submit a completed application form and evidence to
support their application. British Tooling Series (BTS) results will be considered
where applicable.
6.2 Minimum standards:
(a) Should be able to climb Sport 7a or above (send video evidence)
(b) Should be able to link fig 4s into fig 9s (send video evidence)
V3 28.9.2020(c) Should be able to run a 5k in under 30 minutes (send race results or strava data)
(d) Juniors must finish within the top 50 percent of competitors at a UIAA European
Cup event to be considered to attend the UIAA Youth World events
(e) Females:
Under 16 M9
Under 19 M10
Under 21 1xM9 and 1xM10 in a single session
Males
Under 16 M9
Under 19 M10
Under 21 1xM10 1xM11 in a single session
6.3 GB Ice Climbing Team, Senior Selection
All athletes are responsible for registering themselves to attend UIAA European Cup
events. Each athlete must also submit a completed application form and evidence to
support their application. BTS results will be considered where applicable.
6.4 Those wishing to compete at the IWC must meet the following criteria.
(a) All senior competitors must score within the top 30 percent at a UIAA European
Cup competition to attend UIAA World events.
(b) Female competitors must be able to climb at M10 or higher (send video
evidence)
(c) Female competitors must be to climb 4 laps at M9 in a single session (send video
evidence)
(d) Male competitors must to be able to climb M11 or higher (send video evidence)
(e) Male competitors must be able to climb 4 laps at M10 in a single session (send
video evidence).
(f) Those wishing to compete are expected to be able to demonstrate they are able
to climb at these grades in the months leading up to the UIAA World events.
(g) Each senior member is expected to produce a monthly training diary (submit it
with your application form) showing consistency in training and overall fitness.
We encourage all athletes attending the UIAA World events to compete in both Speed and lead
events.
V3 28.9.20207. Deselection – Injuries, Fitness to Compete
7.1 At this time, the membership of athletes affected by injury or illness will be afforded a
certain amount of protection.
7.2 A significant injury/illness is defined as follows:
7.2.1 One that impacts on an athlete’s ability to fully train/compete for a single or
cumulative 3-month period; or
7.2.2 one that, happens at a crucial time in the calendar that significantly impacts on
the athlete’s ability to deliver performances that would otherwise have qualified
them for retention on the Squad.
7.3 Athletes who are unable to compete at the specified selection events or International
events due significant injury/illness may be retained for the following year.
7.4 Where an athlete has been affected by a performance limiting injury/illness, there will
be return-to fitness performance conditions, based on a case-by-case approach.
7.5 There will be an agreed action plan between the athlete, their personal coach & the
BMC, which will have individual targets to be reviewed throughout the season.
8. Appeals
8.1 The sole grounds of appeal against the decision of any selection panel will be that:
8.1.1 there has been a failure to follow the GB Ice Climbing Selection Policy; or
8.1.2 that the selection panel reached a decision on the basis of an error of fact.
8.2 The right to appeal a selection decision is provided on these limited grounds only and
must not be seen as an opportunity to dispute the opinion of the selection panel where
they have followed the proper procedure and selection criteria stated in the GB Ice
Climbing Selection Policy.
8.3 In reaching their decision the selection panel are acting as experts and athletes agree
that in so doing the panel exercises judgment and discretion which are not in
themselves capable of challenge.
8.4 There are no appeals allowed against the content of the published GB Ice Climbing
Selection Policy and therefore against the actions of the selection panel, provided they
follow the selection criteria published.
V3 28.9.20208.5 Any appeal relating to the process will be conducted in accordance with the BMC in
partnership with Mountaineering Scotland appeals policy.
9. Disclaimer
Due to the uncertainty of the international competition season this document may, during the
course of the year, require minor amendment. These amendments will be limited to
circumstances arising from rule changes and or changes to the BMC and Mountaineering
Scotland and / or the UIAA International Events calendar. Any amended version of this
document will be made publicly available (including the date on which any amendment was
made) at www.thebmc.co.uk
10. Selection Policy for 2021 / 2022 season
This policy will be reviewed after the last UIAA World event in the 2020/ 2021 season and the
2021/2022 policy will be published as soon as possible thereafter. Results from the 2020 /
2021 season can be used as evidence for selection in the 2021 / 2022 season.
V3 28.9.2020Appendix 1; GB ICE Climbing Application Form Please email this completed form together with your evidence to zoe@thebmc.co.uk Name: Date of Birth: Email Address: Clothing Size (Required for team kit): Do you have a British passport? Yes / No (Please note that you must hold a British passport to be considered) Select the discipline(s) for which you are applying (select one) • Difficulty (Lead) • Speed • Difficulty (Lead) and Speed Please list details of any Ice Climbing Competition results in the last 3 years: Please list details of any other form of climbing competition results in the last 3 years: Describe your current training for ice/mixed/dry-tooling competition. Briefly describe why you are excited to participate in the Ice Climbing World Cup or World Championship events and your expected performance target. State where you can find the UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup regulations? If you are a Junior Team aspirant, do you understand the standards you must meet in order to be eligible to attend a Youth World Event? Please add any additional skills/experience/information you would like the BMC and MScot to know about you, including past rankings that weren't asked for above. Please state which UIAA World event(s) would you wish to enter should you be successful in this selection process? V3 28.9.2020
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